60 Day Europe Bash – The Adriatic

I left Lake Bled on May 17 to head back to Ljubljana to begin my second Rick Steves tour, the “Best of the Adriatic” 14-day tour back in Ljubljana. This time I had the opportunity to spend more time in Ljubljana than I did during my Rick Steves “Best of Eastern Europe” tour when we spent a dreary afternoon on our way to Lake Bled.

This tour took me from Ljubljana back to Bled and Kobarid in Slovenia; Motovun, Rovinj, Pula, Opatija, back to Plitvice, Split, Hvar, Korcula and Dubrovnik in Croatia and Mostar in Bosnia-Herzegovina.

My 60-Day Europe Bash, April 24 to June 22, 2016, travel blog is in six parts: Berlin, Heart of Europe, Adriatic, Balkans, Vienna and Munich. This is the Adriatic portion of my trip, which included Slovenia, Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina from May 17 to May 31, 2016. Follow along through the photos and captions.

Ljubljana, Slovenia

Ljubljana, with its distinctive bridges and outdoor cafes along the Ljubljanica River, has an Old World feel with a charming vibe. This is a night view of the river and the triple bridge which connects Ljubljana’s historical, medieval town on one bank, and modern Ljubljana on the other. (May 17, 2016)

Although Ljubljana is filled with old world charm architecturally, it also carries a youthful vibe with its hip university atmosphere. But for me, the most intriguing part is the man who came home to Ljubljana, after making a name for himself in Prague, to redesign the city. That man was architect and the urban planner of his day, Jože Plečnik. A man who never married and lived modestly, Plečnik and Ljubljana are intertwined.

The man himself, Jože Plečnik (1872-1957), helped shape the modern look of Ljubljana, Slovenia. Trained as a furniture designer, Plečnik turned to architecture. His simple but eye pleasing designs mixed modern and classical influences. He made a name for himself with his work on the Prague Castle in Prague. But Plečnik returned home to Ljubljana and got to work redesigning the city from libraries to riverside embankments to market halls and bridges, Plečnik left his mark on Ljubljana. (May 18, 2016)

The landmark Triple Bridge designed by Jože Plečnik in Ljubljana. The Triple Bridge is a group of three bridges across the Ljubljanica River in the city center near Prešeren Square. It connects the Ljubljana’s historical, medieval, town on one bank, and the modern city of Ljubljana, on the other. Plečnik designed the extension of the bridge in 1929 with two footbridges at a slight angle on each side of it. The three bridges are part of the Ljubljana pedestrian-only zone. (May 18, 2016)

Part of the the landmark Triple Bridge designed by Jože Plečnik in Ljubljana. (May 18, 2016)

The Ljubljana Central Market, in the capital of Slovenia, was designed by Jože Plečnik in 1931–39. It is located in the center of Ljubljana and extends from the Triple Bridge to the Dragon Bridge. The market offers agricultural products including fruits, vegetables, meat products, flowers, plants and medicinal herbs. In addition, the market also offers pottery, souvenirs, textiles, footwear and other products. (May 18, 2016)

The outdoor central market area in Ljubljana also designed by Jože Plečnik. (May 18, 2016)

The Cobbler’s Bridge in Ljubljana was once where actual shoemakers would set up shop. Although the original bridge is long gone, this columned bridge was designed by Jože Plečnik. (May 18, 2016)

Our Rick Steves guide, Tina, explaining the significance Jože Plečnik’s masterpiece, the National and University Library in Ljubljana. The red and gray color scheme represents the red soil and the granite of the Karst region, south of Ljubljana. But on a deeper level, the library represents overcoming obstacles to obtain knowledge. (May 18, 2016)

The Church of St. John and the Baptist and the Trnovo Bridge, a Jože Plečnik’s project built between 1929 and 1932. (May 18, 2016)

A plaque of Fran Saleški Finžgar (left) and Jože Plečnik by the Church of St. John and the Baptist in the Ljubljana’s Trnovo district. Finžgar, a Slovene writer, playwright, translator and Roman Catholic priest, was a close friend and personal advisory of Plecnik’s. When Finžgar served as a priest at the church, Plečnik was his neighbor. And, in the late 1920’s Finžgar commissioned the renovation of the church to Plečnik. (May 18, 2016)

Inside of the Church of St. John and the Baptist in the Trnovo district of Ljubljana is located in front of architect Jože Plečnik’s home and contains some furnishings designed by him. (May 18, 2016)

The home of Slovenian architect and urban planner Jože Plečnik at 4 Karunova street in Ljubljana’s Trnovo district. He lived modestly and simply with other family members in other sections of the house. (May 18, 2016)

The entrance hall to Jože Plečnik’s house in Trnovo across the Trnovo Bridge in Ljubljana. This is where, for 36 years architect and urban planner Plečnik, would greet his guests. (May 18, 2016)

Another look at the entrance hall to Jože Plečnik’s house in Trnovo across the Trnovo Bridge in Ljubljana. This is where, for 36 years architect and urban planner Plečnik, would greet his guests. (May 18, 2016)

The work table in the house of Jože Plečnik’s where the Slovenian architect and urban planner lived and worked in Ljubljana. (May 18, 2016)

In the same room as the work table is this bed and books in the house of Jože Plečnik’s where the Slovenian architect and urban planner lived and worked in Ljubljana. (May 18, 2016)

The inside and outside garden at Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik’s house in Ljubljana. (May 18, 2016)

Although Jože Plečnik gave Ljublana its look, Slovenian poet France Prešeren (1800-1849) gave the country it’s romantic soul and national anthem. The mayor outlawed buses and taxis. Although Ljubljana is pedestrian-friendly, it is also bike-friendly and if you’re not aware of your surroundings, you could become easily acquainted with someone on a bike because they seldom slow down. (May 18, 2016)

In Prešeren Square is the statue of Slovenia’s greatest poet, France Prešeren. His lyrical poetry dealt with the love towards his homeland, the suffering of humanity, as well as his unfulfilled love towards his muse, Julija Primic. (May 18, 2016)

Although Slovenia’s greatest poet, France Prešeren, wrote about love, his own love was unrequited by his muse, Julija Primic. This shows Julija gazing back toward Prešeren Square however, the daughter of a wealthy merchant married someone wealthy. (May 18, 2016)

Although this bridge has nothing to do with the poet or the architect, it is still a landmark bridge in Ljubljana, the Dragon Bridge. (May 18, 2016)

The exterior of the Ljubljana Cathedral in Ljubljana officially named St. Nicholas’s Church. (May 18, 2016)

Inside the Ljubljana Cathedral, towards the main nave, much of the original Baroque decor remains with frescoes painted by Giulio Quaglio between 1703–1706 and later 1721–1723. (May 18, 2916)

Inside the Ljubljana Cathedral. (May 18, 2016)

The frescoed ceiling of the Ljubljana Cathedral. (May 18, 2016)

Our Rick Steves tour guide, Tina Hilti, pointing to theThe side door, now named the Ljubljana Door, was redesigned by Mirsad Begić (sl), who decorated them with portraits of the 20th-century bishops of Ljubljana. Subsequently, an automatic electric door has been added beyond the main door. (May 18, 2016)

One of four dragons at the beginning and the end of the landmark Dragon Bridge in Ljubljana. The Dragon is a symbol of Ljubljana’s strength. (May 18, 2016)

Again, another bridge that has nothing to do with the poet or architect, but I just liked it. For whatever reason, this is called the “Ugly Duckling” bridge in Ljubljana but the view from the bridge and the architecture on both sides of the Ljubljanica River is anything but ugly. (May 18, 2016)

I’m in Bovec, Slovenia, tonight. It’s a completely different world from the city of Ljubljana, with its Julian Alps mountain views and pristine Soca River flowing through its canyons. Today, we hopped on our very comfy Rick Steves tour bus, and met our bus driver Tomaz, to head out of the city of Ljubljana with a stop in Bled, Slovenia, to visit the castle and time to take in the sights and a walk around the serene Lake Bled. Then it was back on the bus to the Julian Alps making our way up and down the hairpin curves and stunning views of Vrsic Pass before making our way to Bovec for the night. Tomorrow, we make our way to Croatia.

Bled, Slovenia

The Lake Bled Castle in Slovenia. (May 19, 2016)

Back in Bled, Slovenia, for a couple of hours. This time I walked the 3.5 miles around Lake Bled and truly enjoyed the calm and peace of the walk and the spectacular views of Bled island, the castle and the snow capped Julian Alps. (May 19, 2016)

Me and tour mate Susan, along with her husband Joe, walked the 3.5 miles around the lake. Here Susan and I are trying to stay warm as the weather starts to cool off at Lake Bled, Slovenia, after our walk. (May 19, 2016)

Breznica, Slovenia

Vrsic Pass & Soca River, Slovenia

Driving along the Slovenian mountainside brought us to the Vrsic Pass of the Triglav National Park where our Rick Steves bus driver managed some 50 hairpin turns. The views were simply amazing. (May 19, 2016)

On our way up the Vrsic Pass in the Triglav National Park is this little Russian chapel. The road used to travel the park was built during World War I by some 10,000 Russian soldiers who lived and worked in terrible conditions, hundreds of whom died from illness and exposure. In 1916, an avalanche killed more than 300 workers. The chapel was built in honor of their memory. (May 19, 2016)

Stopped at this Soca River Canyon, close to our hotel and final stop in Bovec, Slovenia, to see the emerald-colored water from a bouncy suspension bridge. (May 19, 2016)

Me on the bouncy suspension bridge at the Soca River Canyon enjoying the emerald-colored water and mountain views…while holding on for dear life. (May 19, 2016)

We said goodbye to Bovec, Slovenia, as we made our way to Motovun, Croatia. During our journey to Croatia, we made several stops along the way in Slovenia including a stop at the World War II Museum, the Kobarid Museum in Kobarid, Slovenia and stopped for a a late lunch at a Slovenian winery…which meant lots of good wine tasting and a tour of the winery.

Kobarid

Brda, Slovenia

Dutovlje, Slovenia

Our guide Tina and the man of the hour, the winemaker and winery owner, Boris Lisjak, telling us about his wine, as Tina translates. That’s tour members Joe and Susan to the left and Dennis to the right. (May 20, 2016)

Tour members Carol to the left of me and Julie to the right of me enjoying our wine tasting and treats at the Boris Lisjak Winery in Dutovlje, Slovenia. (May 20, 2016)

Motovun, Croatia

Although the bus took us as close as possible to our hotel in Motovun, we walked thru these ancient city gates. (May 20, 2016)

A nice glass of wine, my iPad to do my writing and my camera to capture the beauty of my travels while the sun sets on Motovun, Croatia. (May 20, 2016)

It was a full day of meandering through Istria, the westernmost part of Croatia, which included the ancient sites in Pula to the quaint, yet touristy Rovinj. Add sunshine, blue skies and the warm Mediterranean climate….all while staying in a former castle on the hillside of Motovun, Croatia, located on a steep hillside with panoramic views, and you have the perfect ingredients for an amazing day.

The yellow St. Stephen’s church and tower next to our hotel on the hillside of Motovun, Croatia. A steep, bricked and twisty road leads up to this area of the old town. (May 21, 2016)

A view of slate roofed houses from the ramparts on the hillside of Motovun, Croatia. (May 21, 2016)

The painting of good giant Veli Joze, on the side of a building along the ramparts in Motovun, is based on a 1908 story by Croatian writer Vladimir Nazor. The main character is a brave and good giant named Joze, who lives in the vicinity of Motovun. Good giant Veli Joze has become the folk symbol of strength and power. The book was based on folk stories and folk motifs. (May 21, 2016)

The other side of the city gate in Motovun, Croatia showing restaurants and front row seats to gorgeous views. (May 21, 2016)

A view of the hillside village of Motovun, Croatia, our home last night and again tonight. (May 21, 2016)

Our wonderful Rick Steves “The Best of the Adriatic” tour group with the hillside village of Motovun, Croatia, behind us. The photo includes our incredible tour guide Tina (front row kneeling 2nd from the left) and our hairpin turning bus driver Tomaz (front row kneeling 2nd from the right). (May 21, 2016)

Pula, Croatia

A close-up of the amphitheater tower in Pula, Croatia. This is one of the best preserved amphitheaters from antiquity and is still in use. (May 21, 2016)

An underground exhibit at the Pula, Croatia, amphitheater of amphora vessels once used for storing and transporting olive oil, wine, salted fish and preserved fruit. They were also used for building as construction and insulating material, as well as for filling in swampy areas. The characteristic Istrian amphora has a very pronounced egg-shaped body with long neck narrower than the body and small handles on opposite sides. (May 21, 2016)

This is a would be parking garage near the old town of Pula, Croatia. Would be because when the person who bought it got ready to clear the land, Roman ruins were found. (May 21, 2016)

The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Pula, Croatia. The site of the present-day church has been used for religious worship since ancient Roman times and the first Christian churches on the site were built in the late 4th and early 5th century AD. In 1709, stone was taken from the Pula amphitheater for the bell tower foundations of the cathedral. This was the last time the arena was used as a source of stone. (May 21, 2016)

A statue of Irish novelist and poet James Joyce sits at a restaurant in the old town of Pula, Croatia. Joyce lived in Pula for six months between October 1904 and March 1905 teaching English to Austrian officers at the time. (May 21, 2016)

Arch of the Sergii is an Ancient Roman triumphal arch erected in Pula, Croatia, between 29 and 27 BC.. The arch commemorates three brothers of the Sergii family specifically Lucius Sergius Lepidus, a tribune serving in the twenty-ninth legion that participated in the Battle of Actium and disbanded in 27 BC . The arch stood behind the original naval gate of the early Roman colony. The Sergii were a powerful family of officials in the colony and retained their power for centuries. The “Golden Gate” was erected between the years 29 and 27 BC by the Sergi family, in honor of three brothers who held important positions in Pula at that time. James Joyce taught in a school previously housed in the yellow building next to the arch. (May 21, 2016)

Cleaning up after a World War II bombing, locals found these mosaics by Chapel of St. Maria Formosa in Pula’s old town. The well preserved mosaic covered the floor of a central room of a Roman house, probably from the 3rd century. It has been preserved as is, which means the Roman floor level was about six feet below today’s level. (May 21, 2016)

Rovinj, Croatia

This is actually part of the Valentino Restaurant where you can sit by Adriatic Sea in Rovinj, Croatia. (May 21, 2016)

Another cute alleyway in Rovinj, Croatia. (May 21, 2016)

Took a little time to enjoy Rovinj, Croatia, at this restaurant. (May 21, 2016)

And, this was my view at the restaurant in Rovinj, Croatia. (May 21, 2016)

The gorgeous town of Rovinj, Croatia. (May 21, 2016)

Motovun, Croatia

Alma, an owner and the chef at the Konobo Astarea, is cooking over an open flamed stove. (May 21, 2016)

This was actually the third course of our group dinner tonight with the first two courses of pasta and beef goulash. Throw in wine, schnapps and an apple strudel for dessert and you have the makings of a full belly. (May 21, 2016)

Thankfully, we get to burn those calories from our hearty dinner with a walk up to our hotel, the former castle, in Motovun, Croatia, on a bricked, curved road and through this defensive gate. Good night, Motovun. Tomorrow we get a bit of a late start, but it’s pretty much a full day on the bus until we get to Plitvice National Park, Croatia, for the night. (May 21, 2016)

Today was about getting from one place to the next. That meant leaving my hillside former castle hotel in Motovun, Croatia, and heading to Plitvice Lakes National Park. We did make some stops along the way, including the one in Opatija, Croatia, for a couple of hours during lunchtime.

Opatija, Croatia

I had a picnic-style lunch (something Europeans do) at Park Svetog Jakova or Saint James’s Park at a stopover in Opatija. Behind me, in the park, is the oldest building in Opatija, the Church of St. Jakov. Originally a Benedictine abbey, it’s mentioned in historic documents dating back to 1449. This is also where the town got its name…opatija means “abbey” in Croatian. Saint Jacob’s church, built in 1506 and enlarged in 1937, now stands on the same spot as the abbey. (May 22, 2016)

Opatija, Croatia, on the Istrian peninsula, is a popular summer and winter resort. (May 22, 2016)

Not sure what this building is, but I just loved the look of it and the beautiful red roses in Opatija, Croatia. (May 22, 2016)

She is called the “Maiden with the Seagull.” Located on a promenade in Opatija, Croatia, she was erected in 1956. The Maiden is the work of academic sculptor Zvonka Car. Although there are different stories attached to her presence, suffice it to say, she elegantly stands on Opatija’s coastline to welcome visitors. The seagull in her hand is part of the sculpture but the seagull on top of her head landed there…I guess…as a good spot to find lunch. (May 22, 2016)

Upon arrival at our hotel in Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia, our delightful tour group leader, Tina, suggested an outdoor happy hour picnic before dinner that included wine and a few treats. (May 22, 2016)

I’m at the halfway mark of my 60-day Central and Eastern Europe trek and my Rick Steves “Best of the Adriatic” tour group has landed in Split, Croatia, for the next two nights. When I reflect about all I’ve seen and done, in the past 30 days, I’m amazed. One of the things our tour group did today, which I also did on my previous “Best of Eastern Europe” tour, was to walk/hike Plitvice Lake National Park in Croatia. On my last visit, it rained, but not today and that made it a whole new eye opening and frankly beautiful experience. Plus, I made it through without a scratch…yes, during the last visit, I took a spill and bruised my right knee…but all is better now. Looking forward to tomorrow when we explore Split and the Roman ruins of Emperor Diocletian’s Palace.

Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia

Me at the Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia enjoying a beautiful walk/hike with the sun shining. (May 23, 2016)

Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia. (May 23, 2016)

Me on the boat crossing over to the other side of the lake at Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia. (May 23, 2016)

Our tour group on the boat crossing over to the other side of the lake at Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia. (May 23, 2016)

Split, Croatia

An after dinner evening walk led us to a two-man band singing and playing 1970s music at the Peristyle, the main square of Diocletian’s Palace in Split Croatia. Sitting in this square tonight while listening to music was quite a magical moment for me. (May 23, 2016)

It turned out to be a cool and rainy day in Split, Croatia, today but our group toured the Roman ruins of Diocletian’s Palace. Built as a retirement palace by the Roman Emperor Diocletian at the turn of the 4th century A.D., the palace and the old town portion of the city are pretty much intertwined.

After today’s tour was over at noon, it was free time so I picked up my laundry, enjoyed wine and cheese with tour members Susan and Joe and then I took the day off and chilled out. Sometimes you just have to take a vacation from your vacation and today was that kind of a day.

The outer facade of Diocletian’s Palace by the Riva a waterfront pedestrian promenade lined with umbrellaed cafes and palm trees in Split. (May 24, 2016)

An Adriatic seaside view in Split, Croatia. (May 24, 2016)

A photo rendering of what Diocletian’s Palace, on the UNESCO list of World Heritage since 1979, looked like. Emperor Diocletian, who was in poor health, returned to Split for the medicinal sulfur spring. The palace took about 11 years to build and more than 2,000 slaves died during the construction. Considered as the best preserved imperial palace, it is at the core of the medieval town. (May 24, 2016)

With preserved Roman structures, this basement hall in Diocletian’s Palace, Split, Croatia, was used in the film scenes of HBO’s “Game of Thrones.” (May 24, 2016)

These beams of wood, dated from 295 to 305 AD, were discovered under the floor level of the Diocletian Palace substructure in Split, Croatia. (May 24, 2016)

Diocletian brutally persecuted his Christian subjects. Just before he moved to the Dalmatian Coast, he had Bishop Domnius of Salona killed, along with several thousand Christians. (May 24, 2016)

The basement hall of Diocletian’s Palace in Split, Croatia. (May 24, 2016)

The altar of the Cathedral of St. Domnius in Split, Croatia, originally Diocletian’s mausoleum, was built in the 4th century. But after the fall of Rome, it’s was converted into a cathedral. (May 24, 2016)

The Cathedral of St. Domnius in Split, Croatia, originally Diocletian’s mausoleum, was built in the 4th century. But after the fall of Rome, it’s was converted into a cathedral. (May 24, 2016)

Croatian artist Andrija Buvina carved two wooden cathedral doors in 1214 AD, which are still in place today at the Cathedral of St. Domnius in Split, Croatia. The fascinating Romanesque handicraft showcases 14 images illustrating the life of Jesus Christ with elements of gold plating. (May 24, 2016)

The most remarkable and distinguished part of Diocletian’s Palace is the Peristyle square in Split, Croatia. The Peristyle, the central part of Diocletian’s Palace, has become the main public square, the center of various civil, religious, public and administrative activities. (May 24, 2016)

This black Sphinx in Split, Croatia’s Peristyle square is the only one still predominantly intact that’s one of Diocletian’s collections of 13. (May 24, 2016)

The ornate bell tower of the Cathedral of St. Domnius, which began in the 13th century, is quite the centerpiece in Peristyle square in Split, Croatia. (May 24, 2016)

Jupiter’s Temple, which was later converted into a baptistery and renamed St. John’s Baptistery in Split, Croatia. (May 24, 2016)

Inside and to the back of the former Jupiter’s Temple turned St. John’s Baptistery in Split, Croatia is the large bronze statue of saint Jean-Baptiste, a late work of Ivan Meštrović carried out in 1954. Mestrovic was a renowned Croatian sculptor and architect of the 20th century. (May 24, 2016)

Our city tour guide, Maja, inside the former Jupiter’s Temple turned St. John’s Baptistery in Split, Croatia. (May 24, 2016)

A passageway in Diocletian’s Palace in Split, Croatia. (May 24, 2016)

The Golden Gate was the main entry of Diocletian’s Palace in Split, Croatia. (May 24, 2016)

This huge statue/sculpture of Bishop Gregory Nin is the work of Ivan Mestrovic. The 10th century Croatian priest tried to convince the Vatican to allow Mass to be said in Croatian rather than Latin. Mestrovic was a renowned Croatian sculptor and architect of the 20th century. After the end of World War II, unwilling to live under Communism, Mestrovic relocated to the United States where he became a citizen. (May 24, 2016)

This piazza square at the center of Split’s Old Town, which includes the Town Hall to the left and clock tower to the right. (May 24, 2016)

A quaint square in Split, Croatia’s Old Town. (May 24, 2016)

This painting is on the wall of the Hotel Globo in Split, Croatia. (May 24, 2016)

It was a day of island hopping by way of a ferry and a catamaran in what was ideal weather. We said good-bye yesterday morning to Split, Croatia, when our tour group hopped on a ferry and glided through the still and beautiful Adriatic Sea to the island of Hvar, Croatia. I’m not sure if it was the gorgeous day that added to the beauty of Hvar or if it was the island’s quaint charm and Venetian feel that mesmerized me, but it was a lovely way to spend an afternoon. And before we got too comfortable, it was time to hop on a catamaran to the island of Korcula where our tour bus and driver, Tomaz, were waiting to take us to our hotel just outside of Korcula’s old town.

Me, yesterday morning on the ferry heading out of Split, Croatia. (May 25, 2016)

Hvar, Croatia

On the island of Hvar in Croatia at St. Stephen’s Square, dominated by the cathedral, bell tower, cafes and restaurants. (May 25, 2016)

Although this passageway looks very much like it would belong in an Arabian nights movie, it actually leads from the St. Stephen’s Square in Hvar, Croatia, to the Benedictine Convent and further up to the 14th century fortress. (May 25, 2016)

The Benedictine Convent is where the nuns make these wonderfully intricate and delicate pieces of lace art by using fibers from the agava…a cactus-like plant. (May 25, 2016)

Samples of the delicate lace made by the nuns of the Benedictine Convent on the island of Hvar, Croatia, using fibers from the agava, a cactus-like plant with flat, long, leaves. (May 25, 2016)

The view overlooking the Hvar, Croatia, harbor as I’m heading to the 14th century fortress on the top of the hillside. The views of the water, boats and rooftops, on this gorgeous day, were absolutely stunning. (May 25, 2016)

The 14th century fortress on the highest point of the island of Hvar, Croatia. (May 25, 2016)

Proof that several of us from the tour made it up the steps and windy passageway to the dramatic views on the highest point of the island to the 14th century fortress in Hvar, Croatia. From left is Barbara, me, Carol, Dennis and John. (May 25, 2016)

Back to the beautiful water and bobbing boats of the Hvar, Croatia, harbor with a view of the 14th century fortress on the hillside. (May 25, 2016)

My tour group waiting on the island of Hvar, Croatia for our catamaran to the island of Korcula where our tour bus and driver, Tomaz will be waiting to take us to our hotel. (May 25, 2016)

The inside of the catamaran taking us from the island of Hvar, Croatia to the island of Korcula, Croatia. (May 25, 2016)

Although it was a free day from planned tour group activities, that didn’t mean laying in bed all day. The Korcula, Croatia’s, old town with its stone archways, narrow winding lanes, outer wall and towers was a joy to just meander through. Getting to the old town was less than a 10 minute walk from our hotel…the Marco Polo. Yes, there are gift shops, a restaurant and even a Marco Polo Museum in Korcula. The medieval Venetian merchant and traveler is reputed to have been born in Korcula. Fact or fiction, I have no idea, but the Polo force is strong in Korcula.

Although there were no set plans for the day, the evening brought the group together for a relaxing and picturesque boat ride along the Adriatic Sea. Then afterwards, I got caught up in the magic of the Corpus Christi celebration procession that began in the old town at St. Mark’s Square. The boat ride and the religious procession was a beautiful way to end the day and our stay in Korcula. Tomorrow, we head to Mostar, Bosnia.

Korcula, Croatia

Inside of th Sveti Mihovil. Church in old town Korcula, Croatia. (May 26, 2016)

This is another church in Korcula, Croatia’s old town. The The Church of OUr Lady,, which. Dates from the 16th century. is located in the old town’s main square. Old gravestones are dotted along the Church’s floor. The flag column to the. Side of the church dates from 1515. The church is used as a fine arts gallery fr local artists Toms of historical Korcula families are buried toward the entrance of the church. The decorative pillar next to the church dates back from the 16th century. The carvings are said to be some of Korcula’s old family arms. (May 26, 2016)

The altar of the Church of Our Lady in old town Korcula was made in the 18th century but the mosaics behind the altar on the wall were laid by contemporary artists in the early 1960s. (May 26, 2016)

A close-up of the medallion at the altar of the Church of Our Lady in old town of Korcula. Although the church was constructed in the 18th century but the mosaics behind the altar, including this one, where done by contemporary artists in early 1960s. (May 26, 2016)

Gabrielis Palace, built in the 16th century Renaissance style, currently houses the Korcula Town Museum in St. Mark’s Square. (May 26, 2016)

The Bishop’s Palace houses the Treasury Museum in Korcula’s St. Mark’s Square. (May 26, 2016)

One of the many arched and narrow passageways in the old town of Korcula, Croatia. (May 26, 2016)

Although Korcula lays claim as Venetian merchant and traveller Marco Polo’s birthplace, evidently so does Venice. The Venetian merchant is quite popular in Korcula with gift shops, a museum, this restaurant and even a hotel baring his name. (May 26, 2016)

The Marco Polo gift shop window, where a variety of statues, salts, lavenders, magnets and journals are sold. The gift shop is across from the entrance to Marco Polo’s alleged house of birth in Korcula, Croatia. The bust is said to be of Marco Polo. (May 26, 2016)

The upstairs tower is said to be Marco Polo’s alleged house of birth in Korcula, Croatia. The green gate to the right leads to the house, which was not open. A sign by the green gate reads: Marco Polo House…Born in Korcula 1254…Died in Venice 1324. (May 26, 2016)

The Marco Polo Museum and gift shop facing the harbor where the old town of Korcula, Croatia, meets mainland. (May 26, 2016)

The ramparts of old town Korcula, Croatia, is now a promenade with restaurants and a stunning view of the Adriatic Sea. (May 26, 2016)

Our Rick Steves tour group boarding our boat for a ride on the Adriatic Sea around the island of Korcula, Croatia. (May 26, 2016)

The towers and the walls of old town Korcula, Croatia, from our boat ride on the Adriatic Sea. (May 26, 2016)

Me on our tour group’s boat ride on the Adriatic Sea around the island of Korcula, Croatia. (May 26, 2016)

After this evening tour group boat ride I was able to catch the Corpus Christi celebration procession that began at the Cathedral Sveti Marko or St. Mark’s Cathedral in the old town of St. Mark’s Square in Korcula, Croatia. Corpus Christi is a Christian observance that honors the Holy Eucharist. It is also known as the Feast of the Most Holy Body of Christ, as well as the Day of Wreaths. (May 26, 2016)

The Corpus Christi celebration procession that began at the Cathedral Sveti Marko or St. Mark’s Cathedral in the old town of St. Mark’s Square in Korcula, Croatia. (May 26, 2016)

The Cathedral Sveti Marko or St. Mark’s Cathedral in the old town of St. Mark’s Square in Korcula, Croatia, was built in the Gothic-Renaissance style and completed in 15th century. (May 26, 2016)

Inside of St. Mark’s Cathedral in the old town of St. Mark’s Square in Korcula, Croatia. (May 26, 2016)

Our hotel…the Marco Polo Hotel…in Korcula, Croatia, is located within a ten minute walk of the old town. (May 26, 2016)

Mostar has long been known for its old Turkish houses and Old Bridge or Stari Most. Mostar acquired its name from the bridge-keepers, the mostari. Developed in the 15th and 16th centuries as an Ottoman frontier town and during the Austro-Hungarian period in the 19th and 20th centuries, Mostar spans the Neretva River.

However, most of the historic town and the Old Bridge were destroyed during the 1990s conflict. Mostar is still rebuilding from the 1990s conflict that saw the armies of the Catholic Croats, Orthodox Serbs and Muslim Bosniaks, who once lived in peace together, came apart during the war.

The Old Bridge was recently rebuilt and many of the edifices in the Old Town have been restored or rebuilt with the contribution of international committees established by UNESCO.

Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina

The Karagözbey Mosque in the old town of Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina was built in the mid 1550s and by a park turned into a cemetery in 1993 when the dead needed a place to be buried and other cemeteries were inaccessible due to the Bosnian War in the early 1990s.The mosque was severely damaged during World War II, and faced near destruction during the Bosnian War but like the rest of Mostar, underwent extensive repairs between 2002 and 2004. (May 27, 2016)

Some scars of the war during the early 1990’s still remain in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina. (May 27, 2016)

The New Muslim Cemetery in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina, was a park before the war but became a cemetery because locals needed to bury loved ones who mostly died from 1993 to 1995. (May 27, 2016)

I have a thing for bridges, especially pedestrian bridges. I’m not entirely sure why, but I know a part of that lies in their basic function…to bring two separate entities together. The iconic Old Bridge or Stari Most has spanned the Neretva River for more than four centuries. This new Old Bridge was built in 2004 after the 1557 bridge, commissioned by the Ottoman Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent, was destroyed in the Bosnian war. (May 27, 2016)

Walking through the lively Coppersmiths Street in Mostar with its narrow passageway and stoned ground while packed with tourists is basically like walking through a Turkish bazaar. (May 27, 2016)

The Bosnian War took place between 1992 and 1995 and most recent estimates suggest that around 100,000 people were killed and more than 2.2 million people were displaced. (May 27, 2018)

Enjoying dinner with tour mates in the old town of Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina. From left me, Mae and Joe. (May 27, 2016)

My Rick Steves “Best of the Adriatic” tour members enjoying a delicious dinner in Mostar. From left, Mae, Joe, Susan and Jim. (May 27, 2016)

Enjoying my traditional Bosnian dinner in old town Mostar along with a beer called “Radler,” which has lemon in it. (May 27, 2016)

A view of the pedestrian walkway of the Old Bridge in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina. (May 27, 2016)

Another side and view of the Old Bridge in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina. (May 27, 2016)

Me last night in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina with the iconic Old Bridge glowing in the background. Although this is the reconstruction of the 16th century Ottoman bridge which stood for 427 years until it was destroyed during the Bosnian war in 1993. The reconstruction took place in 2004. (May 27, 2016)

It was a full day of three Bosnian cities, three weddings and landing on the pearl of the Adriatic. Even though our Rick Steves tour group left Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovenia, early yesterday morning, we spent the early part of the day visiting three Bosnian cities all working, on different levels, to rebuild from the war: Blagaj, Stolac and Trebinje.

Yesterday’s walk through the past and the rebuilding of the cities was a powerful reminder of the fact that war can only destroy. So does hate, walls and segregation. And, in a very happenstance of a way, love also made itself known as our group witnessed not just one, but three weddings. The whole day reminded me of the lyrics to Marvin Gaye’s, What’s going on song: “You see, war is not the answer for only love can conquer hate.”

Tonight is our farewell dinner which concludes our 14-day Rick Steves “Best of the Adriatic” tour. Tomorrow most of the group leaves to head home, but not me, I’l be spending an extra day in Dubrovnik.

Blagaj, Bosnia & Herzegovina

With our city tour guide, Ado, we visited the Tekke, also known as the Dervish monastery. Built on a cliff face in the 15th century, the Tekke is located at the spring of the Buna River in the small village of Blagaj, just south of Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina. (May 28, 2016)

The interior of the Tekke, a 15th century Dervish monastery located at the spring of the Buna River in the small village of Blagaj, just south of Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina. (May 28, 2016)

We had to take off our shoes and the women had to wear a scarf to enter the Tekke, a 15th century Dervish monastery located at the spring of the Buna River in the small village of Blagaj, just south of Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina. I did the same last year when entering mosques in Turkey. (May 28, 2016)

After visiting the Tekke, several tour members and I enjoyed Turkish coffee with Turkish delight in Blagaj, Bosnia and Herzegovina. From left Susan, Joe, me and Dennis. (May 28, 2016)

Me after visiting the Tekke, I enjoyed Turkish coffee with Turkish delight in Blagaj, Bosnia and Herzegovina. (May 28, 2016)

Stolac, Bosnia & Herzegovina

The necropolis, a cluster of centuries-old traditional Bosnian tombstones called stećaks at Radmilja in Stolac, Bosnia and Herzegovina. These stećak tombstones, from the 13th to 15th centuries, are carved with epitaphs, detailed portraits of the deceased, and motifs such as grape vines, hunting scenes, and wild animals. (May 28, 2016)

Our local guide Ado took our tour group for walks through the villages of Blagaj and Stolac in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Ado, a young English literature professor, with such warmth and kindness spoke about the difficulties him and his family faced when they were expelled from their home in Blagaj during the war. At the time, his father, who was a carpenter by trade also became a soldier and his mother worked as a nurse in a makeshift hospital. Today, he works to educate others and rebuild his community, including this mosque in Stolac which was rebuilt with the help of volunteers. (May 28, 2016)

The physical scars of the war, including a bombed out building, are still present in Stolac, Bosnia and Herzegovina. (May 28, 2016)

This former tobacco factory, no longer in business, also bares the scars of the war with both big and small bullet and mortar holes in it in the village of Stolac, Bosnia and Herzegovina. Stolac was particularly hard-hit during the war when it was taken over by Croat forces and its majority Muslim residents were forced to flee. (May 28, 2016)

This fortified tower and medieval city of Stolac, Bosnia and Herzegovina, is located on the hillside above the modern city. It was overgrown but a group of volunteers worked to clear the overgrowth. (May 28, 2016)

The beautiful luncheon feast prepared for us at a small restaurant in Stolac, Bosnia and Herzegovina. Our wonderful lead guide, Tina, explaining to us what the feast included. And, in all honesty, all I heard is Baklava, which I love. (May 28, 2016)

Trebinje, Bosnia & Herzegovina

This is the gorgeous Orthodox church in Trebinje, Bosnia and Herzegovina, that was built between 1888 and 1908 where two weddings took place. (May 28, 2016)

As we were about to enter the Catholic Orthodox Church in Trebinje, Bosnia and Herzegovenia, we found out that a wedding had just taken place. We arrived in time to see the bride and groom leave the church. (May 28, 2016)

And just when the first wedding at the Orthodox Church n Trebinje, Bosnia and Herzegovenia, was finishing, this second ceremony began soon after. (May 28, 2016)

Inside the Orthodox Church in Trebinje, Bosnia and Herzegovina, built between 1888 and 1908, the congregation stands with men to the right and women to the left. Our group stock in the back during this second wedding ceremony. (May 28, 2016)

A close-up of the frescos inside the Orthodox Church in Trebinje, Bosnia and Herzegovina. (May 28, 2016)

Dubrovnik, Croatia

At St. Blaise, a Baroque church in Dubrovnik was built, like most churches in the city, following the 1667 earthquake and fire. The wedding party, guests and us nosey tourists gathered outside the church to await the newly married couple leaving the church. (May 28, 2016)

Having pizza with tour members in the old town in Dubrovnik, Croatia. (May 28, 2016)

The St. Blaise Church during a night walk in the old town of Dubrovnik, Croatia. (May 28, 2016)

An evening walk through the main promenade of the old town in Dubrovnik, Croatia. (May 28, 2016)

Before saying good-bye last night to my Rick Steves “Best of the Adriatic” tour mates during our farewell dinner, we started our day with a walking tour of the old town in Dubrovnik, Croatia. A destination of cruise ships and tour groups like ours, Dubrovnik’s old town can get pretty crowded, pretty fast so an early morning walk put us just ahead of the crowd. Nicknamed the Pearl of the Adriatic, with it’s Venetian feel and the gleaming Adriatic Sea as a backdrop, is well earned.

The main promenade of the old town in Dubrovnik, Croatia, after entering through the Pile Gate. Officially called the Placa, but better known as the Stradun, this street currently filled with shops and restaurants began in the 7th century as a canal. (May 29, 2016)

The houses on the main promenade or Placa in the old town of Dubrovnik, Croatia. These were built after the 1667 earthquake and fire. (May 29, 2016)

Looking towards the Luza Square in the old town of Dubrovnik, Croatia. The building in the middle with the ground-floor arches is the Sponza Palace, which holds the city’s archives. (May 29, 2016)

The Luza Square with the Sponza Palace (left) holds the city’s archives and (right) the Bell Tower in old town of Dubrovnik. (May 29, 2016)

The Rector’s Palace (left0 and the side of the Dubrovnik Cathedral in old town of Dubrovnik, Croatia. (May 29, 2016)

The St. Blaise Church with the statue of Orlando in front of the church in the old town of Dubrovnik, Croatia. The church is dedicated to Dubrovnik’s patron saint. The church, like most of the churches in the town was built following the 1667 earthquake and fire. Orlando was used as a symbol of a city under the protection of the Hungarian-Croatian King. (May 29, 2016)

Inside of the St. Blaise Church in the old town of Dubrovnik, Croatia. (May 29, 2016)

A close up of the altar of the St. Blaise Church in the old town of Dubrovnik, Croatia. (May 29, 2016)

The Dubrovnik Cathedral, the Cathedral of the Assumption, in its 18th century Roman Baroque version in the old town of Dubrovnik, Croatia. The original 12th century cathedral which was largely funded by the English King Richard the Lionhearted after he was shipwrecked and rescued in Dubrovnik. At the time, it was the finest Romanesque church on the Adriatic before it was destroyed in 1667 by the earthquake and fire. (May 29, 2016)

Inside the Dubrovnik Cathedral in Croatia. The main altar, which is being renovated, holds a triptych of the “Ascension of Mary” by Titian, circa 1550. (May 29, 2016)

The altar of St. John, in the Dubrovnik Cathedral in Croatia, is made from purble marble in Nordic-Baroque style and is simply breathtaking. (May 29, 2016)

A baptism had taken place at the Dubrovnik Cathedral in Croatia at the baptismal fountain. (May 29, 2016)

The Church of St Ignatius is located close to the southern edge of the old town in Dubrovnik, Croatia. (May 29, 2016)

The interior of the Church of St Ignatius the old town of Dubrovnik, Croatia. (May 29, 2016)

The Rick Steves tour members getting settled at the 16th century villa and now Kazbek Hotel’s outdoor restaurant in Dubrovnik, Croatia, for our final group dinner last night. (May 29, 2016)

For starters, we had broccoli cream, cocktail sauce with scallops. Delicious! (May 29, 2016)

The main dish was sea bream with black polenta, tomato sauce and olive oil. Yum! (May 29, 2016)

And dessert, at least my choice for dessert, was the chocolate mouse. But it was more like a chocolate molten cake because when I cut it open, warm chocolate oozed out. Heavenly! (May 29, 2016)

Enjoying our group’s farewell dinner with tour mate Julie at a 16th century villa and now Kazbek Hotel’s outdoor restaurant in Dubrovnik, Croatia. (May 29, 2016)

Today ends 30 days of two back to back Rick Steves tours. The first one was the 16-day “Best of Eastern Europe” tour and this one, the 14-day “Best of the Adriatic” tour. Thank you Peter Polczman and Tina Hiti, the lead tour guides for each tour and to Sanel Maric. Tomorrow I fly back to Budapest to begin my Cosmos 13-day “Treasures of the Balkans and Transylvania” tour which includes the countries of Serbia, Bulgaria and Romania.

I spent today, my last day in Dubrovnik, Croatia, walking the grand city wall that surrounds the old town with Carol and Dennis, tour mates from both of my Rick Steves tours who like me stayed over another day in Dubrovnik. This was a WOW experience.

The medieval City Wall is included in the World Heritage List from UNESCO as far back as 1970. In addition to the fortifications, the city walls are protected additionally with two round towers, 12 quadrilateral forts, five bastions and two corner towers.

And the views, from the sea of orange roofs on one side to the actual Sea of the Adriatic made for a compelling little more than two hour walk and picture taking extravaganza.