Diana Petterson European Continent, Spain

My Solo Month in Spain: Mérida

Me from a top the walls of the Alcazaba de Mérida of the pedestrian Puente Romano, a Roman Bridge over the Guadiana River. In the distance is the Lusitania Bridge built in 1991 to take the road traffic from the Romano bridge.(Sept. 8, 2021)

Mérida is a work a day city built onto and around its legacy of ancient Roman ruins. It’s been such a full on Roman ruins incursion that for a moment, I actually forgot I was in España, Spain. And because of its numerous, well preserved Roman ruins, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1993.

But, just a few quick historical details.

Founded in 25 BC by the name of Emerita Augusta (meaning the veterans – discharged soldiers – of the army of Caesar Augustus, the first Roman emperor and who founded the city; the name Mérida is an evolution of this) by order of Augustus, to protect a pass and a bridge over the Guadiana river.

Emerita Augusta (today’s Mérida) was one of the ends of the Vía de la Plata (Silver Way), the route of the historic Roman road which ran between northern and southern Spain, one of the most important on the Iberian Peninsula at that time. The city became the capital of the Roman province of Lusitania.

After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, during the Visigothic period, the city maintained much of its splendor. Then in 713, the city was conquered by the Muslim army under Musa bin Nusair, and became the capital of the cora of Mérida; when most of the old Roman buildings were re-used and expanded on, such as the Alcazaba. By 1230, the city was conquered by Alfonso IX of León and brought under Christian rule. A period of recovery started for Mérida after the unification of the Catholic Monarchs in 1469. But the Napoleonic invasion of the 19th century saw Mérida monuments damaged and/or destroyed.

Mérida maintains one of the largest and most extensive UNESCO Archaeological Ensemble of Roman ruin sites in Spain. Come with me as we check out a few of these sites including the Temple of Diana, the Arch of Trajan; the Plaza de España; the Portico of a Roman Monument; the Puente Romano Bridge and the Alcazaba; the Roman Theater and Amphitheater; the Museum of Roman Art; the the Acueducto de los Milagros or the Miraculous Aqueduct and my stay at the Parador. Let’s check out Mérida.

The Temple of Diana

Me by the Temple of Diana in Merida. The temple, which has undergone a number of transformations since it was built at the end of 1 B.C. was a rectangular religious building of granite from local quarries and covered with white stucco. The Corinthian columns still stand in their original rectangular formation. Diana is a goddess in both Roman and Greek mythology who is primarily considered a patroness of the countryside, hunters, crossroads, and the Moon. The daughter of Jupiter and Latona, she was also the twin of Apollo. The Diana name was erroneously assigned to this temple when it was discovered. More than likely the building was dedicated to the imperial cult, a state religion worshipping emperors or rulers as demigods or deities. (Sept. 8, 2021)
A reconstruction drawing of the Temple of Diana in Mérida inside the small museum to the rear of the temple. (Sept. 8, 2021)
The Roman Temple of Diana in Mérida. (Sept. 6, 2021)
The Roman Temple of Diana in Mérida. (Sept. 6, 2021)
A side view of the ruins of the Roman Temple of Diana with the remnants of the Palace of the Corbos in Mérida. This side entrance, with staircase, opens to a small museum with more views of the temple. (Sept. 6, 2021)
The Temple of Diana with the remnants of the Palace of the Corbos in Mérida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
At the end of the 15th century Alonso Mexia, Knight of the Order of Santiago built his palatial residence, the Palace of the Corbos, over the remains of the Roman Temple of Diana in Mérida. Part of the Renaissance palace is still being conserved in the temple’s main facade. In 1972, the building was expropriated with the intention of restoring the ancient Roman temple.(Sept. 8, 2021)
A photo from the small museum to the back of the Temple of Diana showing the Palace of the Corbos main access door from around 1927 to 1936.
The rectangular base of the building, is surrounded by columns (peripteros) and hexastyle temple (with six front facing columns).
Elevated on a base. The columns capitals are Corinthian, with a long shaft and made of granite. It is thought that a garden with a pond existed beside the temple. In the 16th century and taking as its base the structure of the temple, the Palace of Corbos, was built for the Duke of Corbos. (Sept. 8, 2021)
The Roman Temple of Diana in Mérida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
The Roman Temple of Diana in Mérida. (Sept. 6, 2021)
The remains of Roman ruins to the side and across from the Temple of Diana in Mérida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
Looking out from the Roman Temple of Diana who was the Roman goddess of the hunt, the moon and birth. Today, the Roman Temple of Diana is one of Mérida’s can be openly accessed in the middle of a neighborhood as is the case with other Roman ruins in Mérida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
Looking out from inside the Roman Temple of Diana in Mérida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
Looking out from inside the Roman Temple of Diana in Mérida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
Looking out from inside the Roman Temple of Diana in Mérida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
Me from inside the Roman Temple of Diana in Mérida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
A restaurant by the name of Diana just down the way from the Temple of Diana in Mérida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
The Restaurant Diana just down the way from the Temple of Diana in Mérida. (Sept. 6, 2021)

The Arch of Trajan

Me at the Arch of Trajan in Mérida. This colossal arch, part of a walk through to the Plaza de España, stands out majestically at 45 feet tall (13.97 meters) in the modern landscape of neighboring homes and businesses.  (Sept. 8, 2021)
This colossal arch, part of a walk through to the Plaza de España, is called the Arch of Trajan in Mérida. This arch was possibly erected right after the foundation of the city, around 25 BC, and was more than likely faced with marble and adorned with statues. The Arch of Trajan is not its original name, but what is known is that it was a monumental gate to a main Roman square located on what may have been a main Roman road. This arch was possibly erected right after the foundation of the city, around 25 BC, and was more than likely faced with marble and adorned with statues. (Sept. 8, 2021)
This colossal arch, part of a walk through to the Plaza de España, is called the Arch of Trajan in Mérida. (Sept. 8, 2021)

The Plaza de España

The Plaza de España in Mérida was declared as such, at the time of the Catholic Monarchs in the 1400s. It has seen life as a market place and also a place to collect water. It served as a stage for theatrical functions, bullfights, executions, masquerades and processions. Its current appearance mainly stands out for the presence of a late 19th century neo-baroque marble fountain. (Sept. 8, 2021)
The Plaza de España in Mérida. (Sept. 6, 2021)
The Plaza de España in Mérida. (Sept. 6, 2021)
Areas around the Plaza de España in Mérida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
Areas around the Plaza de España in Mérida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
Areas around the Plaza de España in Mérida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
The Moorish wall close to the Plaza de España in Mérida. (Sept. 6, 2021)
The Moorish wall close to the Plaza de España in Mérida. (Sept. 6, 2021)

Portico of a Roman Monument

Although this is not the last, but here’s another neighborhood with Roman ruins in Mérida. These are the remains of the portico of a Roman monumental site. The attic is ornamented with medallions of the god Jupiter and Medusas, separated by Greek-style figures. The vaulted niches in the head walls held statues of persons of repute. Some sections have openings to small rooms. (Sept. 6, 2021)
The remains of the portico of a Roman monumental site in Mérida. The attic is ornamented with medallions of the god Jupiter and Medusas, separated by Greek-style figures. (Sept. 6, 2021)
The remains of the portico of a Roman monumental site in Mérida. The attic is ornamented with medallions of the god Jupiter and Medusas, separated by Greek-style figures. (Sept. 6, 2021)
The remains of the portico of a Roman monumental site in Mérida. The attic is ornamented with medallions of the god Jupiter and Medusas, separated by Greek-style figures. (Sept. 6, 2021)
The neighborhood in Mérida across the street where the remains of the portico of a Roman monumental site exists. (Sept. 6, 2021)

The Puente Romano Bridge and the Alcazaba

Me by the Roman Bridge with views of the Alcazaba of Merida in the distance. (Sept. 8, 2021)
The Puente Romano is the Roman Bridge over the Guadiana River in Mérida. The bridge, which stretches about half of a mile with 60 arches, was probably built in 25 BC. In terms of distance this Roman Bridge is considered the world’s longest surviving bridge from ancient times. (Sept. 8, 2021)
The Roman Bridge in Mérida is pedestrian friendly and there are several walking trails around and under one of the bridge’s arches where pedestrians can walk. (Sept. 8, 2021)
The pedestrian friendly Roman Bridge in Mérida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
The pedestrian friendly Roman Bridge in Mérida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
The pedestrian friendly Roman Bridge in Mérida with walking trails underneath. (Sept. 8, 2021)
The pedestrian friendly Roman Bridge in Mérida with walking trails underneath. (Sept. 8, 2021)
The Roman Bridge connects to the Alcazaba of Mérida, a Moorish fortification built in 835. (Sept. 8, 2021)
The walls of the Alcazaba of Mérida, a Moorish fortification built in 835, from the Roman Bridge. (Sept. 8, 2021)
The entrance into the Alcazaba of Mérida, a Moorish fortification built in 835, from the Roman Bridge. (Sept. 8, 2021)
This is the remains of the street and main gate entrance to ancient Mérida (pictured through the archway) and into the Alcazaba of Mérida (not shown in photo but is to the right), a Moorish fortification built in 835, from the Roman Bridge. (Sept. 8, 2021)
The walls of the Alcazaba of Mérida, a Moorish fortification built in 835, from the Roman Bridge. (Sept. 8, 2021)
Arched entrance into the Alcazaba of Merida, a Moorish fortress built in the Muslim Mérida by Umayyad Emir Abd ar-Rahman II in 835 AD. (Sept. 8, 2021)
Inside the Alcazaba of Merida, a Moorish fortress built in the Muslim Mérida by Umayyad Emir Abd ar-Rahman II in 835 AD. In charge of laying it out was the architect Abd Allah. To build this Alcazaba, the oldest of the Peninsula, inspiration was drawn from Byzantine models. The purpose of this fortified palace was multiple in nature: to serve as a headquarters for Umayyad administrative offices and as a residence for the local governor. (Sept. 8, 2021)
Inside the Alcazaba of Merida, a Moorish fortress built in the Muslim Mérida by Umayyad Emir Abd ar-Rahman II in 835 AD. (Sept. 8, 2021)
Inside the Alcazaba of Merida, a Moorish fortress built in the Muslim Mérida by Umayyad Emir Abd ar-Rahman II in 835 AD. (Sept. 8, 2021)
Inside the Alcazaba of Merida, a Moorish fortress built in the Muslim Mérida by Umayyad Emir Abd ar-Rahman II in 835 AD. (Sept. 8, 2021)
Inside the Alcazaba of Merida, a Moorish fortress built in the Muslim Mérida by Umayyad Emir Abd ar-Rahman II in 835 AD. (Sept. 8, 2021)
A view of the Roman Bridge from the atop the wall of the Alcazaba of Merida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
A view of the Roman Bridge and the new Lusitania Bridge in the distance  from the atop the wall of the Alcazaba of Merida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
Me from a top the walls of the Alcazaba de Mérida of the pedestrian Puente Romano, a Roman Bridge over the Guadiana River. In the distance is the Lusitania Bridge built in 1991 to take the road traffic from the Romano bridge. (Sept. 8, 2021)

The Roman Theater and Amphitheater

The covered walkway leading to the Mérida Roman Theater and Amphitheater. The weather in Mérida has, for the most part, been quite sunny and been hot so this shade along the way was most appreciated. (Sept. 6, 2021)
The exterior ruins of the Roman Amphitheater in Mérida to the left with the remains of a Roman road in the center and the Roman Theater (not in the photo) to the right. (Sept. 7, 2021)
Me at one of the entrances to the ruins of the Roman Amphitheater in Mérida, which was completed in 8 BC. The amphitheater had three monumental gates intended for authorities and event organizers and 13 entrances for the public who came to watch the shows. (Sept. 7, 2021)
Inside the oval-shaped Roman Amphitheater ruins in Mérida. Inaugurated in the year 8 BC, this amphitheater was intended for gladiatorial fights and combats between beasts or men and beasts. (Sept. 7, 2021)
The coveted reserved box at Roman Amphitheater in Mérida was for the magistrates or individuals who paid for the gladiator fights. The inscription carved into the granite and written in Latin refers to the Emperor Caesar Augustus and his titles, placing the initial phase of the building at around the year 8 B.C. (Sept. 7, 2021)
A privlidged entryway into the the oval-shaped Roman Amphitheater ruins in Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
One of three monumental gates with the opening on a hill sloping down into the Roman Amphitheater of Mérida, this one was for the parade that inaugurated the gladiator games. And, the champion gladiators would also enter thru here. The theater was used from the 1st to the 4th century. (Sept. 7, 2021)
Although I entered through what I suspect is for the common folks, this walkway was used to provide access to the middle and upper stands via a private stairway into the Roman Amphitheater of Mérida. The fancy flared look of the brick gave the entryway a high quality finish. (Sept. 7, 2021)
Adjacent to and just a Roman rock-hewn walkway across from the Roman Amphitheater is this entrance to the Roman Theater of Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
Adjacent to and just a Roman rock-hewn walkway across from the Roman Amphitheater is this entrance to the Roman Theater of Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
The Roman Theater of While theatre was not the most popular Roman past-time, Mérida, a city of prestige demanded one. This Roman Theater was built between 16 to 15 BC to reflect this burgeoning society boasting a capacity for 5,500 spectators. (Sept. 7, 2021)
Another view of the Roman Theater of Mérida with its circular stage and seating capacity of 5,500 spectators. (Sept. 7, 2021)
The Roman Theater of Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
The Roman Theater of Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
The Roman Theater of Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
The Roman Theater of Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
The tunnel-entryway into the Roman Theater of Mérida was considered as a privileged area for people of influence. (Sept. 7, 2021)
The exterior remains of the Roman Theater in Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
The exterior remains of the Roman Theater in Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
A fictionalized drawing at the National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida of what the ruins of the Roman Theater could have looked like when it was the first theater of Augusta Emerita, around 16 to 15 BC. An imposing building full of varying heights of beautiful statues and richly decorated with colorful marble and mosaics. The theater was outstanding for its monumental frons scaenae, featuring sculptures of mythological scenes and of heroic emperors. This venue was also used for religious rites in the cult of the Imperial Family. (Sept. 7, 2021)

The Museum of Roman Art

Inside the National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida with its colossal dimensions, repeated use of the semicircular arch and bricks, recreates the great buildings of the late Roman age and is the work of the prestigious architect from Rioja, Rafael Moneo Vallés. Along with a number of theater, amphitheater, coins, pottery, Roman Spain sculptures and other Roman relics, the museum also has an incredible collection of large mosaics hanging from the walls and on the floors. (Sept. 7, 2021)
Toga clad figures inside the National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
A Roman dwelling inside the National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida. The homes, on the outskirts of the city, were lavishly decorated with paintings and mosaics and often had private baths. (Sept. 7, 2021)
A Roman dwelling inside the National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida. The homes, on the outskirts of the city, were lavishly decorated with paintings and mosaics and often had private baths. (Sept. 7, 2021)

 

 

The head sculpture in the middle is said to depict a middle-aged Caesar Augustus, also known as Octavian, the first Roman emperor, reigning from 27 BC until his death in AD 14. This is one of the most significant sculptures of Roman Spain and is considered one of the National Museum of Roman Art’s most important pieces. It is sculpted in Carrara marble. The two Toga-clad figures beside him are thought to be his successor and adopted son Tiberius, and the other, Drusus. (Sept. 7, 2021)
Mosaic of the Charioteers at the National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida. The mosaic is from around the 4th century AD. (Sept. 7, 2021)
A close-up of a section of the Mosaic of the Charioteers at the National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida. This section features a victorious charioteer, Paulus and the horses. The mosaic is from around the 4th century AD. (Sept. 7, 2021)
A close-up of a section of the Mosaic of the Charioteers at the National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida. This section features a victorious charioteer, Marcianus and the horses. The mosaic is from around the 4th century AD. (Sept. 7, 2021)
The Mosaic of the Nereid, a sea nymph astride a sea monster with the head of a mammal and the tail of a fish, at the National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida. The mosaic is from around the 4th century AD. (Sept. 7, 2021)
A close-up of the Mosaic of the Nereid, a sea nymph astride a sea monster with the head of a mammal and the tail of a fish, at the National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida. The mosaic is from around the 4th century AD. (Sept. 7, 2021)
A close-up of the Mosaic of the Nereid, a sea nymph astride a sea monster with the head of a mammal and the tail of a fish, at the National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida. The mosaic is from around the 4th century AD. (Sept. 7, 2021)
This large mosaic, at the entrance/exit into the National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida, is a treat for myself, as a quilter, and to my quilter friends. The decorative appliqué-looking blocks are surrounded by what looks like pieced flying geese and cornerstone blocks; and it is just exquisite. This large mosaic, on the wall is damaged but the remains are still colorful and gorgeous. (Sept. 7, 2021)
A close-up of the large mosaic, at the entrance/exit into the National Museum of Roman Art in Mérida, with its quilt-looking blocks. (Sept. 7, 2021)
A secondary paved Roman road that linked to the main road between Emerita (Mérida) and Corduba (Cordoba) from around the 4th century AD can be seen at National Museum of Roman Art in Merida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
A secondary paved Roman road that linked to the main road between Emerita (Mérida) and Corduba (Cordoba) from around the 4th century AD can be seen at National Museum of Roman Art in Merida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
A secondary paved Roman road that linked to the main road between Emerita (Mérida) and Corduba (Cordoba) from around the 4th century AD can be seen at National Museum of Roman Art in Merida. (Sept. 7, 2021)

The Acueducto de los Milagros or the Miraculous Aqueduct

With Covid-19 measurements in place, I’ve had to work on my selfie-taking but I’ve gotten help here and there to get my complete self into a photo or two. Here I am at the Acueducto de los Milagros or the Miraculous Aqueduct of Mérida. (Sept. 8, 2021)
A muraled tunnel entrance to the Acueducto de los Milagros or the Miraculous Aqueduct, the ruins of a Roman aqueduct built to supply water to the Roman colony of Emerita Augusta, today called Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
A muraled tunnel entrance to the Acueducto de los Milagros or the Miraculous Aqueduct, the ruins of a Roman aqueduct built to supply water to the Roman colony of Emerita Augusta, today called Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
The Acueducto de los Milagros or the Miraculous Aqueduct are the ruins of a Roman aqueduct built to supply water to the Roman colony of Emerita Augusta, today called Mérida. Unlike the aqueduct in Segovia, which is part of the old town area, this aqueduct is in a very open green space. (Sept. 7, 2021)
The Acueducto de los Milagros or the Miraculous Aqueduct are the ruins of a Roman aqueduct built to supply water to the Roman colony of Emerita Augusta, today called Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
The Acueducto de los Milagros or the Miraculous Aqueduct are the ruins of a Roman aqueduct built to supply water to the Roman colony of Emerita Augusta, today called Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
The Acueducto de los Milagros or the Miraculous Aqueduct are the ruins of a Roman aqueduct built to supply water to the Roman colony of Emerita Augusta, today called Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
The Acueducto de los Milagros or the Miraculous Aqueduct are the ruins of a Roman aqueduct built to supply water to the Roman colony of Emerita Augusta, today called Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)
The Acueducto de los Milagros or the Miraculous Aqueduct are the ruins of a Roman aqueduct built to supply water to the Roman colony of Emerita Augusta, today called Mérida. (Sept. 7, 2021)

Staying at the Paradore in Mérida

The Paradore in Mérida where I stayed for three nights was a good location and within walking distance of the Roman sites I wanted to see. Plus, I really enjoyed the large room and restaurant/bar inside the hotel. A Parador is a kind of luxury hotel, usually located in a converted historic building such as a monastery or castle, or in a modern building with a panoramic view of a historic and monumental city. Parar means to stop, halt or stay. (Sept. 6, 2021)

 

My room #201 at the Paradore in Mérida. I love the size of the room and more importantly, I love that the Paradore has a restaurant and bar areas. (Sept. 6, 2021)
An oddly descent dinner of ham, potatoes and eggs for dinner at the Parador in Mérida. And, I’m drinking a Tinto de verano. It’s a refreshing combination of red wine and lemon soda and what Spainards like to drink during the summertime — usually instead of Sangria. (Sept. 7, 2021)