Kyrgyzstan: From its Nomadic Culture to its Mountain Ranges and City Life

Getting in a selfie of the Jeti Oguz Canyon and the magnificent vibrant red earth cliffs of the ‘Seven Bulls’ that stand above Jeti Oguz Gorge. (Sept. 28, 2023)

Day 20 – Crossing the border into Kyrgyzstan with an afternoon in Karakol

We crossed the border into Kyrgyzstan around noon, still enjoying the beautiful snow capped mountain views. Kyrgyzstan’s history spans a variety of cultures and empires. It attained sovereignty as a nation state after the breakup of the Soviet Union in 1991.

We made our way to Karakol, once a small Russian military post, for the night. Now it is the 4th largest city in Kyrgyzstan near the eastern tip of Lake Issyk-Kul, which we plan to visit. It’s also about 93 miles or 150 kilometres from the Kyrgyzstan–China border and and 240 miles or 380 kilometres from the capital Bishkek, which will be our last stop in Kyrgyzstan and this tour.

After a late lunch, we stopped in to visited less than a handful of Karakol sites including the colorful Dungan Mosque, the Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral and Karakol Historical Museum before checking into our guesthouse for the night. 

Here’s to venturing in the country of Kyrgyzstan and the city of Karakol.

It took about two hours, after crossing the Kyrgyzstan border around 12:30 p.m. for us to stop in Karakol for a late lunch at the Ethno-Cafe Dastorkon. After It was one of those late lunches, early dinners after we crossed into the border of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 27, 2023)
Following the entryway to the Issyk-kul Central Mosque of Karakol or Dungan Mosque. (Sept. 27, 2023)
Inside our late lunch stop at the Ethno-Cafe Dastorkon in Karakol. (Sept. 27, 2023)
Wings, beef and onion rings that I split with Liz during our late lunch stop at the Ethno-Cafe Dastorkon in Karakol. (Sept. 27, 2023)
Following the entryway to the Issyk-kul Central Mosque of Karakol or Dungan Mosque. (Sept. 27, 2023)
The Issyk-kul Central Mosque of Karakol or Dungan Mosque was built by Chinese Muslims who fled persecution in the 1800s. Construction of the mosque began in 1904, lasting through 1910. Ingenious techniques allowed the builders to construct the mosque entirely of interlocking pieces without using nails. The multi-tiered colorful building is encircled by 42 based pillars. (Sept. 27, 2023)
The Dungan Mosque was spared by Soviet purges, which destroyed the other eight mosques in Karakol, but this building was repurposed as a storehouse between 1929 and 1947. In 1947, the building was given back to the city’s Muslim community, from which time it has continued to function as a mosque. (Sept. 27, 2023)
The color blue of the Dungan Mosque in Karakol prevails, but yellow and red elements also stand out. These colors are highly symbolic in the Dungan tradition. The engravings above the yellow beams, all along the perimeter, are decorated with colorful images of fruit and the multi-tiered wooden cornices are also decorated with fruit images like grapes, pomegranates and pears. (Sept. 27, 2023)
The Dungan Mosque and tower in Karakol. (Sept. 27, 2023)
Inside the Dungan Mosque in Karakol. (Sept. 27, 2023)
Even though we did not walk around inside the Dungan Mosque in Karakol, the women covered our heads out of respect while walking around outside. (Sept. 27, 2023)
Views from around Karakol. (Sept. 27, 2023)
Views from around Karakol. (Sept. 27, 2023)
Views from around Karakol. (Sept. 27, 2023)
The Holy Trinity Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox church, in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan. Originally built of stone in 1872 when Karakol was a garrison town established as an outpost on the edges of the Tsarist Russian Empire. It was destroyed in the 1890 earthquake and was rebuilt of wood on a brick base by 1895. The building has seen quite a bit of history, and not only as a church, but was used for an anti-Russian uprising in 1916 during which several monks were brutally murdered. (Sept. 27, 2023)
The Holy Trinity Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox church, in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 27, 2023)
The entrance to the Holy Trinity Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox church, in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 27, 2023)
The entrance to the Holy Trinity Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox church, in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 27, 2023)
A close-up of the wooden window at the Holy Trinity Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox church, in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 27, 2023)
Me outside the Holy Trinity Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox church, in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 27, 2023)
The Karakol History Museum in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 27, 2023)
An exhibit hall inside the Karakol History Museum in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 27, 2023)
An exhibit hall inside the Karakol History Museum in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 27, 2023)
I saw what to me from a distance looked like a reverse appliqué quilt at the Karakol Historical Museum in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan. But this is actually a Kyrgyz handcraft of felted wool used either for keeping the floor or a wall warm. Having a nomadic life-style, Kyrgyz people have used a material made of felt for and I had to get a photo with it. Unfortunately there was no sign accompanying this piece of art, but the fabric is not the traditional cotton fabric I am use to piecing and quilting with, instead this is felt. (Sept. 27, 2023)
A close-up of the carpet/wall hanging inside the Karakol Historical Museum in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan is this simple, thick, geometric design called the Shyrdak. The color palette usually consists of red with brown and white. There are many different techniques for making the carpet but the felt is cut into pieces and stitched together to form a pattern that is placed onto a dark wool base. It is then quilted with colored threads. (Sept. 27, 2023)
The Ella Maillart exhibit wing inside the Karakol History Museum. Maillart (1903-1997) explored and photographed the Muslim republics of the USSR, as well as other parts of Asia. , and published a rich series of books which, just has her photographs, are considered valuable historical testimonies. Her book, “Turkestan Solo” describes a journey in 1932 in Soviet Turkestan. Photos from this journey are on display in the Ella Maillart exhibit wing. (Sept. 27, 2023)
A photograph by Ella Maillart at the Karakol Historical Museum of Lenin’s bust on a judges’ table at a trial at the Tilla-Kari Mosque in Samarkand, Uzbekistan. (Sept. 27, 2023)
A photograph by Ella Maillart at the Karakol Historical Museum of a tram being stormed in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. (Sept. 27, 2023)
A photograph by Ella Maillart at the Karakol Historical Museum of the stone pulpit for the Koran in the courtyard of the Bibi-Khanum Mosque in Samarkand, Uzbekistan. (Sept. 27, 2023)
A photograph of Ella Maillart (1903-1997) at the Karakol Historical Museum in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan. A writer, journalist, photographer and traveller, Maillart was born in Geneva, Switzerland. After various jobs, including teaching English in Wales, she moved to Berlin in 1929 where she met Russian refugees. This inspired a trip to Russia and the Caucuses in 1930, providing material for her first book “Among Russian Youth” published in 1932. Further trips followed, along the Silk Road, to Turkey, Iran, Turkestan and Manchuria. Maillart travelled across China, east to west, with fellow author and journalist Peter Fleming (1907-1971), and this experience is narrated in her book, “Forbidden Journey” published in 1937. (Sept. 27, 2023)
A Russian gingerbread house in Karakol. These cottages are a remnants of Karakol’s history as a frontier town on the edges of the Russian empire. Russian merchants built the beautiful, colorful houses — the more successful the merchant, the more elaborate the house. (Sept. 27, 2023)
Inside the lounge area of our guest house for the night in Karakol. (Sept. 27, 2023)
A place for everyone to put their shoes by the doorway of our guesthouse in Karakol. (Sept. 27, 2023)
The lounge area inside our guesthouse in Karakol. (Sept. 27, 2023)
My room at our guesthouse for the night in Karakol. (Sept. 27, 2023)

Day 21 – Scenic walks, gorgeous mountains and a yurt camp home base

Today was about scenic walks and simply gorgeous panoramic mountain views along the south shore of Lake Issykul. While half of the group hiked to see a waterfall, the rest of us walked along the Jety Oguz canyon’s rocky river stream. 

After our hike, we drove to see the Skazka (Fairy Tale) canyon for its rich orange landscapes that blanket the area. And from there, we ventured to the picturesque Jety Oguz, also known as Seven Bull Valley, rock formations made of red sandstone.

With a full day of the great outdoors behind us, we made our way to our traditional yurt camp site, the Almaluu Yurt Camp in the Bokonbaevo village on the short of Lake Issyk-Kul. The camp site once served as a Soviet collective farm and apple orchard during Soviet years. And is just a 20 minute walk to the south shore of Issyk-Kul Lake. Yurts have a long history in this area and have been used for generations by nomadic tributes as the structures that are easy to transport and assemble. 

Here’s to the natural beauty and authentic experiences of the Issyk-Kul region in Kyrgyzstan.

Views on our van drive to the Issyk-Kul Lake and our yurt camp stay for the next two nights. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Views on our van drive to the Issyk-Kul Lake and our yurt camp stay for the next two nights. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Views on our van drive to the Issyk-Kul Lake and our yurt camp stay for the next two nights. (Sept. 28, 2023)
A rocky stream in the Jety Oguz District of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 28, 2023)
A rocky stream in the Jety Oguz District of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Me by a rocky stream in the Jety Oguz District of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Had to put on my jacket because it started to drizzle, but here I am with my walking group at the Jety Oguz gorge of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. The rest of the group did a waterfall hike. From left: Imelda, Nick, me, Vikki, Jam and Liz. (Sept. 28, 2023)
The stunningly beautiful Jety Oguz gorge of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 28, 2023)
The stunningly beautiful Jety Oguz gorge of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 28, 2023)
The stunningly beautiful Jety Oguz gorge of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 28, 2023)
The stunningly gorgeous Jety Oguz gorge of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 28, 2023)
A yurt camp along the stunningly beautiful stream of the Jety Oguz gorge of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Sites along our walk of the Jety Oguz gorge of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Sites along our walk of the Jety Oguz gorge of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 28, 2023)
A yurt camp site on our walk along the Jety-Oguz gorge in the Issyk-Kul Lake region. (Sept. 28, 2023)
I stopped and rested here in the forest area on our walk along the Jety-Oguz gorge in the Issyk-Kul Lake region. (Sept. 28, 2023)
After our walk, we drove to a hillside to capture these stunning views of Jeti Oguz Canyon (Seven Bulls Rocks), made up of several impressive natural sandstone formations, is considered one of the most famous landmarks of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 28, 2023)
The Jeti Oguz Canyon (Seven Bulls Rocks), made up of several impressive natural sandstone formations in the Issyk Kul Region of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 28, 2023)
the Jeti Oguz Canyon and the magnificent vibrant red earth cliffs of The ‘Seven Bulls’ that stand above Jeti Oguz Gorge. (Sept. 28, 2023)
The gorgeous valley of the Jety Oguz Canyon with its mountains and forest views. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Getting in a selfie of the Jeti Oguz Canyon and the magnificent vibrant red earth cliffs of the ‘Seven Bulls’ that stand above Jeti Oguz Gorge. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Jeti Orghuz Canyon Hike in Kyrgyzstan.

 

More views of the stunning Jeti Oguz Canyon (Seven Bulls Rocks) with views of the stream of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Jeti Oguz Canyon (Seven Bulls Rocks), made up of several impressive natural sandstone formations, is considered one of the most famous landmarks of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Our next stop,the Skazka Canyon, commonly known as the Fairy Tale Canyon. The word “Skazka” directly translates to “fairy tale” from Russian. The woman to the right is posed in a warrior uniform set up by a vendor. The valley is formed by red Neogene sediments, which were transformed by wind and water erosion. These landforms are everchanging. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Skazka Canyon, commonly known as the Fairy Tale Canyon. The word “Skazka” directly translates to “fairy tale” from Russian. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Skazka Canyon, commonly known as the Fairy Tale Canyon. The word “Skazka” directly translates to “fairy tale” from Russian. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Entrance to our yurt camp, the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo just a 20 minute walk to Issyk-Kul Lake. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Inside my multi-shared yurt at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo which I shared with Imelda, Bethan and Nazira. It got rather chilly at night but there were really good heavy blankets and the bed itself was actually comfortable. We also had a stove heater that only stayed on for a few hours. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Our neighbors, in the other girls only, yurt on our camp site at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo, the region of Issyk-Kul. From left: Liz, Spence, Vikki and Kimberly. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Nazira, our wonderful local guide, and me standing outside our yurt at the Almaluu Yurt Camp site in Bokonbayevo, the region of Issyk-Kul. Photo by Imelda Payne. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Our camp site at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo, in the Issyk-Kul region. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Our camp site at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo, in the Issyk-Kul region. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Our camp site at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo, in the Issyk-Kul region. (Sept. 28, 2023)
The western style toilets for men and women on our camp site at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo. Toilet and shower facilities are located separately from the yurts and are shared on the camp. So the conditions are basic, but they work. (Sept. 28, 2023)
The western style toilets for men and women on our camp site at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo. Toilet and shower facilities are located separately from the yurts and are shared on the camp. So the conditions are basic, but they work. (Sept. 28, 2023)
The western toilets on our camp site at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo. (Sept. 28, 2023)
The dining yurt on our camp site at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Inside the dining yurt on our camp site at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Our wonderful driver, Kazbek and me at our dinner table in the dining yurt on our camp site at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo. (Sept. 28, 2023)
A close-up of my home made dinner plate at our dinner table in the dining yurt on our camp site at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo. (Sept. 28, 2023)
Evening views of the snow covered mountains from the entrance of our yurt camp, the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo. Photo by Liz Ko. (Sept. 28, 2023)

Day 22 – Learning nomadic life skills 

It was a cold, gray day as I come close to the end of this trip. We spent one more night at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in the Bokonbayevo  Village before heading to Bishkek where the tour comes to an end. 

As excited as I was to stay in the yurt, one night would have been more than enough. The coal burning fire stove, which was supposed to have been lit especially at night  kept the inside of the yurt warm for a couple of hours, which was nice. But once it went out, it was cold. The thick blankets made a big difference with combating the cold plus I slept with my sweater on to stay warm. I pretty much felt cold all day. So glad I always travel with a sweater, jacket and a pair of long johns. You just never know when just one of these items can make a big difference in being comfortable. Suffice it to say, I am definitely not a yurt dweller. Grateful for the experience for a couple of nights but a hotel bed is feeling like luxury. 

But there’s no wasting time for yurt lounging and shivering when there is eagle training, archery and yurt making lessons to be had. All of which kept me warm and intrigued throughout the day. And, this day came to an end with a walk to the south shore of Issyk Kul Lake just a 20 minute walk from our Almaluu Yurt Camp site in the Bokonbayevo Village.

Here’s to a rather unusual and truly gem of a day learning first hand some nomadic Kyrgyz life skills. 

Yes, I am holding up this gorgeous, heavy creature, a golden eagle at a vast grassland in the Bokonbayevo Village of the Issyk-Kul Region. These stunning birds have powerful hooked beaks for tearing flesh from their prey, strong legs, powerful talons and keen eyesight. For me, this is such an honor and not necessarily because I’m a crazed animal-lover but I do respect the power of these creatures. Plus, the use of eagles to hunt land prey is an ancient tradition dating back to the Mongol conquest of Central Asia around the 12th and 13th centuries. I was so intrigued by this majestic creature that my tour group members were yelling at me to turn around to get my photo taken. (Sept. 29, 2023)
A 3rd generation eagle hunter, Nusultan was our golden eagle trainer and demonstrator on the steppes or unforested grasslands in the Bokonbayevo Village of the Issyk Kul Region. Hunting with the golden eagle is an ancient tradition that dates back to the Mongol conquest of Central Asia around the 12th and 13th centuries. The normal lifespan of an eagle is 50 years but they are kept in captivity. And, female golden eagles are used for hunting, they are heavier and wider. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Nusultan is a 3rd generation of eagle hunter in the Bokonbayevo Village of the Issyk-Kul Region. Only female eagles are used for hunting because they’re larger, with an eight-foot wingspan, and are fiercer hunters. Golden eagles eat small mammals such as jackrabbits, mice, and prairie dogs; but they are capable of killing larger birds and mammals, including deer and domestic livestock, bighorn sheep, bobcats, seals, etc. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Nusultan showing me how to use a bow and arrow in the Bokonbayevo Village steppes or unforested grasslands of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. Archery is very popular and a cultural norm. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Here I am doing my best to shoot with a bow and arrow in the steppes or unforested grasslands of Kyrgyzstan, with my tutor Nusultan looking on. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Getting in a photo with our eagle and archery trainer, Nusultan in the Bokonbayevo Village steppes or unforested grasslands of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 29, 2023)
A cemetery in the Bokonbayevo Village steppes or unforested grasslands of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 29, 2023)
A cemetery in the Bokonbayevo Village steppes or unforested grasslands of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Following the cows in the Bokonbayevo Village of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 29, 2023)
The home of a yurt maker family of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. A yurt is a portable, circular dwelling made of a lattice of flexible wood and covered in felt. (Sept. 29, 2023)
The home of a yurt maker family of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. A yurt is a portable, circular dwelling made of a lattice of flexible wood and covered in felt. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Just loved the painted rocks at the home of a yurt maker family of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 29, 2023)
The young boys playing in the yard of the yurt maker family of the Issyk-Kul Region in Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Our young guide, Amirlan, taking us through his father’s outdoor yurt making workshop showing us the basics of how these nomadic dwellings have been manufactured in the Issyk-Kul Region of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Our young guide, Amirlan, taking us through his father’s outdoor yurt making workshop showing us the basics of how these nomadic dwellings have been manufactured in the Issyk-Kul Region of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Our young yurt maker, Amirlan, explaining the making of traditional yurts while our guide Nazira does the translating. (Sept. 29, 2023)
And, before we can put those yurt making lessons to work, we first have to fill our bellies. This is our lunch spread in the home of our yurt making family in the Issyk-Kul Region of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Our lunch spread in the home of our yurt making family in the Issyk-Kul Region of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Our lunch spread in the home of our yurt making family in the Issyk-Kul Region of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Loved this rice dish for lunch at the home of our yurt making family in the Issyk-Kul Region of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 29, 2023)
After a hearty lunch, we began the process of both learning and putting together a yurt. Nazira, our local guide, indicating the different yurt size widths. We made the bigger version. (Sept. 29, 2023)
The framework during our process of making the yurt from beginning to end at the home of an incredibly wonderful yurt manufacturing family in the Issyk-Kul Region of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Getting in a selfie as our yurt is underway at the home of a yurt making family in the Issyk-Kul Region of Kyrgyzstan. A yurt is a nomadic dwelling used among the Kazakh and Kyrgyz peoples and made of a flexible lattice of wood, braided with ropes and covered in felt. It can be easily assembled and dismantled within a short period of time to accommodate the nomadic lifestyle. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Our local guide, Nazira, standing at the doorway or our group’s newly made yurt at the family’s home sharing with us the basics of how these nomadic dwellings have been manufactured in the Issyk-Kul Region of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 29, 2023)
A group shot inside the yurt we were trained to put together. It’s like a very cool gig saw puzzle , but you can sleep in it. This was a fun group of travelers to hang out with through this Central Asia tour with Intrepid. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Chilling inside our just made yurt in the Issyk-Kul Region of Kyrgyzstan. From left, Scott holding the family’s cat, Nick, Spence, Liz, Bethan, Imelda and me. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Our group and host yurt training family the Issyk-Kul Region of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 29, 2023)
After our eagle and bow and arrow training, lunch and yurt-making workshop, we came back to our yurt camp site for a rest. Several of us took the rocky road, just a 20 minute walk, from our Almaluu Yurt Camp in the Bokonbayevo Village, to check out the south shore of Issyk Kul Lake. (Sept. 29, 2023)
The south shore of Issyk Kul Lake near our yurt camp site in the Bokonbayevo Village. Considered the second largest mountain lake, after Lake Titicaca in South America, Issyk Kul is among the 25 largest lakes in the world and is in seventh place on the list of the deepest lakes on our planet. (Sept. 29, 2023)
The south shore of Issyk Kul Lake near our yurt camp site in the Bokonbayevo Village. (Sept. 29, 2023)
The south shore of Issyk Kul Lake near our yurt camp site in the Bokonbayevo Village. (Sept. 29, 2023)
My selfie at the south shore of Issyk Kul Lake near our yurt camp site in the Bokonbayevo Village. (Sept. 29, 2023)
Our last home cooked meal back at our yurt camp site in the Bokonbayevo Village. (Sept. 29, 2023)

Day 23: On the road to Bishkek and the end of our tour through Central Asia

It turned out to be a cold, windy, rainy night at our yurt camp site at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo, the region of Issyk-Kul. We woke up to no electricity and no running water for our last day at the camp site before moving on to our last stop of the tour, Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. 

Here’s to the 4-hour drive from our camp site into Bishkek.

Breakfast in the dark at the yurt dining room on our camp site at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo, the region of Issyk-Kul. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Saying goodbye to our camp site at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo, the region of Issyk-Kul. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The only working outdoor toilets at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo, the region of Issyk-Kul. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The toilet at the Almaluu Yurt Camp in Bokonbayevo, the region of Issyk-Kul. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The beautiful morning views as we are driving towards Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The beautiful morning views as we are driving towards Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The beautiful morning views as we are driving towards Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Not sure why cemeteries intrigue me, but this is the one of them that we passed along our drive to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Not sure why cemeteries intrigue me, but this is the one of them that we passed along our drive to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Passing through the town of Balykchy on our drive to Bishkek, the capital city of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Passing through the town of Balykchy on our drive to Bishkek, the capital city of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 30, 2023)

Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan

The roads again, during a more than four hours drive, were difficult to travel on until we were about an hour or so outside the capital city of Bishkek. That’s when we got a paved 4-lane designated highway. 

And, as we entered Bishkek, there were border control stations on each side of the road for locals and large trucks. There were also speed traps  with police on the sides of the highway. 

After arriving in Bishkek, the first thing we did was have a late lunch before heading out on a walking tour showcasing the city’s highlights. 

Some of those highlights included a visit to the Ala-too Square, which was formerly known as Lenin Square in Soviet times. We also explored the beautiful park and open-air statue museum of Dubovy (Oak) Park with its century-old oak trees. Plus an opportunity to see a number of Soviet-era art, architecture and monuments. 

In the evening, we got together for dinner to celebrate the end of our eye-opening trip through five Central Asia countries, say our good-byes and alas, let our leader, guide and driver know how much we appreciate them sharing their knowledge and love of their countries with us. 

Here’s to Bishkek, the end of an incredible journey with a group of enjoyable travelers and to the opportunity to explore some amazing  countries. 

Arriving into Bishkek, the capital city of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Passing the Monument to Baatyr Kaba Uulu Kozhomkul on our drive to our lunch spot in Bishkek. The statue, behind the trees and in front of a sports complex, depicts a muscular man holding a horse on his shoulders, illustrating Kyrgyz respect for robust athletics. (Sept. 30, 2023)
After a quick lunch we began our city tour at Victory Square, a public square in Bishkek. It is dedicated to the victory over Nazi Germany. It was created in 1985, on the occasion of the 40th anniversary of the end of the 2nd World War. The square features a statue of a woman, waiting for her husband to return home from the war and the central area is filled with an eternal fire. The square is held together by three ribs of red granite representing a yurt. (Sept. 30, 2023)

 

Victory Square, a public square in Bishkek, was created in 1985, on the occasion of the 40th anniversary of the end of the 2nd World War. The square features a statue of a woman, waiting for her husband to return home from the war and the central area is filled with an eternal fire. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Victory Square, a public square in Bishkek, was created in 1985, on the occasion of the 40th anniversary of the end of the 2nd World War. The square features a statue of a woman, waiting for her husband to return home from the war and the central area is filled with an eternal fire. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The Opera and Ballet Theater in Bishkek opened in 1955. (Sept. 30, 2023)
A dancer statue in Duboviy Park, also known as Oak Park, with the Opera and Ballet Theater in the distance in Bishkek. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Continuing our walk through Duboviy Park, also known as Oak Park, in Bishkek is this polished red granite obelisk monument, the Memorial to the Red Guards. Unveiled in 1957, this large obelisk is dedicated to the Red Guards who died during the Great Patriotic War, the conflict with Nazi Germany. (Sept. 30, 2023)
A water fountain sculpture among the oak trees in Duboviy Park, also known as Oak Park, in Bishkek. The very first of the oak trees were planted in 1890. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The statue of Kurmanjan Datka in Bishkek’s Oak Park was erected in 2004. A politician and ruler, Kurmanjan (1811-1907) was a female tribal leader who acquiesced, under duress, to the annexation of the Osh Region of Kyrgyzstan to Russia. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The statue of Kurmanjan Datka in Bishkek’s Oak Park was erected in 2004. A politician and ruler, Kurmanjan (1811-1907) was a female tribal leader who acquiesced, under duress, to the annexation of the Osh Region of Kyrgyzstan to Russia. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The statue of Kurmanjan Datka in Bishkek’s Oak Park was erected in 2004. A politician and ruler, Kurmanjan (1811-1907) was a female tribal leader who acquiesced, under duress, to the annexation of the Osh Region of Kyrgyzstan to Russia. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Walking through Oak Park in Bishkek where the very first oak trees were planted in 1890. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Walking through Oak Park in Bishkek where the very first oak trees were planted in 1890. The park is also an open air museum with some 90 sculptures. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Walking through an outdoor art gallery at Oak Park in Bishkek. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Some art pieces at an outdoor art gallery at Oak Park in Bishkek. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The bronze Monument to Bishkek Baatyr, who lived in the 1700s, and although historians debate this, he is considered the founder and namesake for Kyrgyzstan’s capital city of Bishkek. He is said to have been a commander of the Kyrgyz army who made a significant contribution to the expulsion of the Dzungar people. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The bronze Monument to Bishkek Baatyr, who lived in the 1700s, and although historians debate this, he is considered the founder and namesake for Kyrgyzstan’s capital city of Bishkek. He is said to have been a commander of the Kyrgyz army who made a significant contribution to the expulsion of the Dzungar people. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Walking through the oak tree filled Oak Park in Bishkek with its many sculptures. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Walking through the oak tree filled Oak Park in Bishkek with its many sculptures. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The Monument to Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels at Oak Park in Bishkek. Marx (1818-1883), on the left, was a German-born philosopher, economist, political theorist, historian, sociologist, journalist, and revolutionary socialist. Engels (1820-1895) was a German philosopher, political theorist, historian, journalist, and revolutionary socialist. He was also a businessman and Marx’s closest friend and collaborator. The two began a theoretical and political collaboration that would last for the rest of their lives. Marx and Engels founded Marxist theory and in 1845 published “The Condition of the Working Class in England”, based on personal observations and research in Manchester, England. In 1848 the co-authored The Communist Manifesto. Later, Engels supported Marx financially to do research and write Das Kapital. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The Monument to Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels at Oak Park in Bishkek. Marx (1818-1883), on the left, was a German-born philosopher, economist, political theorist, historian, sociologist, journalist, and revolutionary socialist. Engels (1820-1895) was a German philosopher, political theorist, historian, journalist, and revolutionary socialist. The two began a theoretical and political collaboration that would last for the rest of their lives. (Sept. 30, 2023)
As a former member of the USSR, Kyrgyzstan’s capital has a number of Soviet-style architecture including this office building. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The Parliament Buildings in Bishkek. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The Lenin Statue was erected in 1984 at the now Ala-Too Square in Bishkek, during the 60th anniversary of the Kyrgyz Soviet Socialist Republic. Shortly after the fall of communism in 1991, all Lenin statues were taken down. However, Bishkek’s Lenin stood in the same square until 2003. The statue, which depicts Lenin holding open his long winter coat and reaching out…to the mountains?…to Russia?…to the masses?…to communist utopia?…is now located behind the State Historical Museum. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The Ala-Too Square in central Bishkek, with the State Historical Museum on one end and a large pedestal featuring the statue of Manas riding a horse on the other end of the square which was built in 1984 to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Kirghiz Soviet Socialist Republic. The statue was erected in 2011 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of independence from the USSR. Manas, a 10th century legendary hero, is considered a sacred ancient forefather of the Kyrgyz people. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The Ala-Too Square in central Bishkek, with the State Historical Museum on one end and a large pedestal featuring the statue of Manas riding a horse on the other end of the square which was built in 1984 to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Kirghiz Soviet Socialist Republic. At that time, a massive statue of Vladimir Lenin was placed in the square’s center known then as Lenin Square until Kyrgyzstan gained its Independence from the USSR in 1991.
Lenin (1870-1924) was a Russian revolutionary and politician who founded and served as the head of Soviet Russia and later the Soviet Union from 1917 to 1924. The statue was removed and placed behind the museum. In celebration of the 20th anniversary of Kyrgyzstan’s independence, the statue of Manas, a 10th century legendary hero considered a sacred ancient forefather of the Kyrgyz people, was erected. (Sept. 30, 2023)
A side view of the State Historical Museum looking towards the Ala-Too Square in Bishkek. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Changing of the guard by the Ala-Too Square in Bishkek. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Building across from Ala Too Square in Bishkek. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The White House is the presidential office building in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. The White House was the site of riots during both the 2005 Tulip Revolution and the 2010 Kyrgyzstani riots.
It was built in 1985 to be the headquarters of the Soviet Union’s Communist Party’s Central Committee, the seven stories Stalinist modern style building has a marble exterior. (Sept. 30, 2023)
The White House gate which is kept closed to the presidential office building in Bishkek. The White House was the site of riots during both the 2005 Tulip Revolution and the 2010 Kyrgyzstani riots. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Across from the White House in Bishkek is this monument, Martyrs of the Revolution, of three bronze-cast heroes pushing a block of black-clad concrete away from a larger block of white concrete. The black represents the presidency of Kurmanbek Bakiyev, from 2005 to 2010, and other evils that preceded his administration. The figures are the heroes of an uprising in April 2010, when about 90 protestors died and more were hurt while driving Bakiyev, who fled the country, from power. The monument was created to honor the people who gave their lives for the better future of the country. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Across from the White House in Bishkek is this monument, Martyrs of the Revolution, of three bronze-cast heroes pushing a block of black-clad concrete away from a larger block of white concrete.
A close-up of the bronze heroes monument, Martyrs of the Revolution in Bishkek. The monument symbolizes the heroes pushing a block of black-clad concrete away from a larger block of white concrete. The black represents the presidency of Kurmanbek Bakiyev, from 2005 to 2010, and other evils that preceded his administration. (Sept. 30, 2023)
Saying goodbye can be difficult so I’m glad we enjoyed ourselves together, even though it was for the last time, at our farewell dinner in Bishkek. Here I am thanking Nazira, our wonderful local guide for Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, for being such a delight and such a wonderful resource of cultural and historical information. I’m not sure who took this photo, I suspect it’s Liz Ko, but thank you so much! (Sept. 30, 2023)
And, here’s Spence thanking our sweet and capable driver, Kazbek, for getting us safely through some interesting pothole/rocky roads to our destinations in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. And, as for our Intrepid leader, Jam, we individually thanked him for his leadership throughout four of our five Central Asian countries. What a tremendous adventure! (Sept. 30, 2023)
Enjoying our group farewell dinner in Bishkek. What a wonderful group of people to travel with for 26 days. (Sept. 30, 2023)
I am quite the simple eater. Give me a good bowl of soup, like any of the soups I have enjoyed through Central Asia, and I am a happy traveler. Thank you Central Asia for your delicious food, wonderful people, historical sites and gorgeous landscapes. (Sept. 30, 2023)