My Solo Month in Spain: Ávila – My Travel Notions

I’m in the World Heritage city of Ávila distinctly known for its medieval walls or Walls of Ávila. These walls completed between the 11th and 14th centuries are the most complete fortifications in Spain stretching for a little more than 1.5 miles or 2.5 kilometres, in an unbroken oblong-looking circle around the Old Town area of the city. The walls feature 88 towers and nine gates.

I’m a bridge builder, not by trade, but by mindset. I believe it’s important to create spaces where we can come together, share, learn and grow. Yet, I am also giddy about medieval walls.

These ancient walls were built as a defensive mechanism, but also served to control the entrances (of both people and goods) to the city and guard it from outbreaks of the plague. The growing population also faced a constant threat of attack and siege, so the giant fortifications were built to enclose the city within. Some 900 years later, these magnificent walls continue to look much as they did during the Middle Ages, and continue to define today’s Ávila.

I walked the exterior of the walls when I arrived in Ávila and walked on the walls itself over two days for the two available sections. Come check the Murallas or Town Walls better known as the Walls of Ávila with me.

Me walking on one section of the two sections of the Walls of Ávila where the walls and the Old Town it encloses were declared UNESCO World Heritage sites. (Aug. 29, 2021)

Heading towards the Puerta del Alcázar or Gate of Fortress outside the stunning Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 29, 2021)

The Puerta del Alcázar or Gate of the Fortress at the Walls of Ávila is one of the main gates into and out of the the walled Old Town. It is flanked by twin towers, 65 feet or 20 metres high and is linked by a semicircular arch. There are no remains of the Alcázar de Ávila, except for the base of one of its walls right next to the arch. (Aug. 29, 2021)

Me by a flowing marble sculpture of St. Teresa of Ávila at the Alcázar and the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 29, 2021)

A close-up of the St. Teresa sculpture by the Puerta del Alcázar section and across from the Plaza de Santa Teresa of Ávila. Teresa of Ávila, also called Saint Teresa of Jesus, was born in Ávila and is one of Spain’s patron saints. Aug. 30, 2021)

The more modern stairway leading to one of two sections of the Walls of Ávila where I walked during the morning, saving the other section for the afternoon. The walls, and the Old Town it encloses, were declared UNESCO World Heritage sites. (Aug. 29, 2021)

Looking down from the Puerta del Alcázar section on my morning walk on the Walls of Ávila to the Plaza de Santa Teresa of Ávila. Teresa of Ávila, also called Saint Teresa of Jesus, was born in Ávila and is one of Spain’s patron saints. (Aug. 29, 2021)

The street life views of Ávila while taking a morning walk along the Walls of Ávila. These are views outside of the walls. (Aug. 29, 2021)

The street life views of Ávila while taking a morning walk along the Walls of Ávila. These are views inside the walls. (Aug. 29, 2021)

The street life views of Ávila while taking a morning walk along the Walls of Ávila. These are views outside of the walls and looking into the Plaza de Santa Teresa of Ávila. (Aug. 29, 2021)

The street life views of Ávila while taking a morning walk on the Walls of Ávila. These are views outside of the walls. (Aug. 29, 2021)

My morning walk on one of two sections of the Walls of Ávila. The work on the walls began around 1090 but most of the defensive portion of the walls were rebuilt in the 12th century. (Aug. 29, 2021)

My morning walk on one one of the two sections of the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 29, 2021)

Before walking on the Walls of Ávila, I also spent a couple of hours walking along the Walls of Ávila. This section shows the remains of a belfry in the distance from a Carmelite convent, to which the gate, Puerta del Carmen, receives its name. (Aug. 28, 2021)

Walked up the 120 or so steps to get to the Puerta del Carmen from the outside of the Walls of Ávila. The Puerta del Carmen receives its name because a Carmelite convent once existed there. The Provincial Historical Archive was built on its remains . The most recognizable vestige of that convent complex is the brick belfry. (Aug. 28, 2021)

Me ready to hike up the 120 or so steps to get to the Puerta del Carmen portion of the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 28, 2021)

The Puerta del Carmen of the Walls of Ávila and crowning the outside entrance to the gate is the old belfry of the Carmelite convent. (Aug. 28, 2021)

The Walls of Ávila’s Puerta de San Vicente or Gate of St. Vincent is flanked by twin towers, about 65 feet or 20 metres high, and linked by a semicircular arch that both cars and people have to navigate. (Aug. 28, 2021)

The Cuatro Postes or the Four Posts of Ávila is both a religious monument and a place with awe-inspiring views of the Old Town and the encompassing Walls of Ávila. The Cuatro Postes was built around 1566, possibly where a small temple would have been erected in Roman times or to commemorate the place where young Teresa of Ávila and her even younger brother were caught by their uncle trying to leave in order to offer themselves as Christian martyrs during the warring Moorish times. (Aug. 29, 2021)

Had to get a photo of me with these gorgeous views of the Walls of Ávila surrounding its Old Town. From here the walls offer an unusual undulating profile in which the Ávila Cathedral and the belfry at the Puerta del Carmen stand out. (Aug. 29, 20221)

A view of the Walls of Ávila surrounding Old Town Ávila from the Cuatro Postes or the Four Posts viewpoint. (Aug. 29, 2021)

Stairs leading to the second section of my afternoon walk on the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 29, 2021)

The thick wall of the apse of the Ávila Cathedral is solidly embedded in the fortified Walls of Ávila as seen while walking on the second section of the defensive walls. (Aug. 29, 2021)

Views inside the Walls of Ávila from my afternoon walk on the second section of the walls. (Aug. 29, 2021)

Walking on the second section of the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 29, 2021)

Views of the apse of the Ávila Cathedral, connected to the east face of the Walls of Ávila, while walking on the walls. (Aug. 29, 2021)

Views from walking on the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 29, 2021)

A view of Ávila from outside the Walls of Ávila while standing at the top arch of La Puerta de San Vicente or Gate of St Vincent. (Aug. 29, 2021)

The belfry from the Carmelite convent and the Puerta del Carmen from my walk on the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 29, 2021)

A close-up of the distinguished belfry from the former Carmelite convent on the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 29, 2021)

Some people object to paying to enter a church or a cathedral. I don’t. I gladly pay the cost of admission. Because entering a church or cathedral in Europe, Spain included, is entering a place of worship with historical relevance containing some of the best, if not the best, medieval art work and architecture that can equal or even surpass that of a museum.

The Ávila Cathedral, like the Segovia Cathedral and other cathedrals to come during my visit here in Spain, are places of worship that house incredible art and history.

Planned as a temple fortress by religious and military architects, the apse of the Ávila Cathedral is a turret of the defensive Walls of Ávila. Dedicated as the Cathedral of the Saviour, it is estimated to have begun construction in 1091 in the Romanesque style but not completed until the 14th century in the Gothic style. The Cathedral holds the distinction of being one of Spain’s oldest, if not, the oldest Gothic Cathedral in the country.

It may look big and imposing on its battle-ready exterior but the inside of the Ávila Cathedral, with its tall ceilings, felt smaller, more warmly enclosed and more beautiful, at least to me. See what you think, as I wrap up my time in Ávila and move on to Salamanca.

The Ávila Cathedral in the Plaza of the Cathedral and my hotel, the Palacio de Valderrabanos to the right. My hotel, once a palace, was one of a number of houses or palaces that surrounded the Cathedral within the Walls of Ávila. The Cathedral of Ávila is considered by its age (12th century), along with the Cathedral of Cuenca, as the first two Gothic cathedrals in Spain. It predates other important Spanish Gothic cathedrals, such as the Cathedral of Burgos (1222–1260) and the Cathedral of León (started about 1255). (Sept. 29, 2021)

The entry door to the Ávila Cathedral. (Aug. 29, 2021)

The decorated entry doorway of the Ávila Cathedral. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The decorated entry door of the Ávila Cathedral. (Aug. 30, 2021)

A close-up of the carvings above the decorated entry door of the Ávila Cathedral. (Aug. 30, 2021)

It’s called the Altar of the King and it’s the first thing you see once you enter the Ávila Cathedral. Carved from limestone between 1529 and 1535, it illustrates the scenes from the childhood of Jesus Christ. This section of the Cathedral is called the retrochoir and on the other side is both the choir and main chapel. (Aug. 29, 2021)

The Altar of the King inside the Ávila Cathedral is a limestone carving illustrating scenes from the childhood of Jesus Christ. (Aug. 30, 2021)

A close-up of the center carved limestone, Altar of the King at the Ávila Cathedral, illustrating scenes from the childhood of Jesus Christ. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The Main Chapel of the Ávila Cathedral was built from around 1160 to 1180 with its wide Gothic arches resting on pillars of gray granite. (Aug. 29, 2021)

The ceiling of the Main Chapel inside the Ávila Cathedral. (Aug. 29, 2021)

The Choir, with its walnut choir stalls, is behind the retrochoir and across from the Main Chapel of the Ávila Cathedral. The choir dates from the first half of the 16th century. (Aug. 29, 2021)

The elegantly carved walnut stalls of the Ávila Cathedral choir are the work of a Dutch sculptor, Cornelius. (Aug. 29, 2021)

A glance at the encompassing interior of the Ávila Cathedral. (Aug. 29, 2021)

A glance at the encompassing interior of the Ávila Cathedral with the local stone of granite shot through with iron veins that give it a reddish color. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The Tomb of Alonso de Madrigal, known as “El Tostado,” inside the Ávila Cathedral. This sumptuous sepulcher is made of alabaster and mounted as an altarpiece in the center of the main transept of the Ávila Cathedral. Tostado, a Spanish theologian and leading scholar of his generation, was also briefly a bishop of Ávila. (Aug. 29, 2021)

A close-up of the alabaster Tomb of Alonso de Madrigal, known as “El Tostado,” inside the Ávila Cathedral completed by the sculptor Vasco de la Zarza, who trained in northern Italy. (Aug. 29, 2021)

A close-up of how the Ávila Cathedral apse is one of the turrets connected to the defensive Walls of Ávila making it a cathedral-fortress. (Aug. 29, 2021)

The north side of the Ávila Cathedral connecting to the Puerta De Los Leales or the Door of the Bishops by the Wall of Ávila. (Aug. 29, 2021)

Although the Walls of Ávila, considered the best preserved medieval walls in Spain and yes, a UNESCO World Heritage site, are the star attraction, there are also varying sites in and outside of the walls worth seeing too.

I’m so glad that I decided to spend three days in each UNESCO World Heritage city because, at least so far, it has really allowed me time to truly enjoy Ávila.

Obviously one of those major sites is its Gothic Cathedral of Ávila, which I’ve dedicated a separate post to. And, for this post, it’s the Convent of St. Teresa; street scenes inside the walls including the Plaza Mayor and town hall; and the Basilica San Vicente located just outside the walls.

Here’s to a little more of Ávila before moving on to Salamanca.

The Iglesia-convento de Santa Teresa inside the Walls of Ávila built in 1629 on the former home of Saint Teresa. (Aug. 30, 2021)

A close-up of the statue of Saint Teresa in front of the Iglesia-convento de Santa Teresa inside the Walls of Ávila, a church and convent built on what was said to be the home of Saint Teresa Sánchez de Cepeda y Ahumada who was born in Ávila in 1515. Her paternal grandfather, Juan Sánchez de Toledo, was a marrano or Converso, a Jew forced to convert to Christianity or emigrate. When Teresa’s father was a child, Juan was condemned by the Spanish Inquisition for allegedly returning to the Jewish faith, but he was later able to assume a Catholic identity. Her father, Alonso Sánchez de Cepeda, was a successful wool merchant and one of the wealthiest men in Ávila. He bought a knighthood and assimilated successfully into the Christian society. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The Main Altar inside the Iglesia-convento de Santa Teresa in Ávila where Saint Teresa was born. The interior consists of a Latin-cross layout with a central nave and four chapels on each side. The entrance to the chapel of St Teresa opens up on the right arm of the transept and coincides with the area in which her family home once stood, together with the ‘small garden where the saint prayed’ opposite. (Aug. 30, 2021)

A close-up of the Main Altar of the Iglesia-convento de Santa Teresa in Ávila where Saint Teresa was born. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The small garden at the Iglesia-convento de Santa Teresa in Ávila where Saint Teresa was born. The statues depict Saint Teresa and her brother where she was said to pray. (Aug. 30, 2021)

A replica of Saint Teresa of Ávila’s room in a chapel of the Iglesia-convento de Santa Teresa in Ávila. The replica was made possible by information obtained from documents and paintings of what a room in a stately home resembled. Teresa de Cepeda y Ahumada was born in Ávila to a wealthy family. A plexiglass partition keeps people from accessing the room. (Aug. 30, 2021)

One of several stained glass windows inside the Iglesia-convento de Santa Teresa in Ávila. St. Teresa at the Convent of St Teresa in her birthplace of Ávila. Teresa of Ávila, born Teresa Sánchez de Cepeda y Ahumada, also called Saint Teresa of Jesus (1515–1582) was a Spanish noblewoman who felt called to convent life in the Catholic Church. A Carmelite nun, prominent Spanish mystic, religious reformer, author, theologian of the contemplative life and of mental prayer, she earned the rare distinction of being declared a Doctor of the Church, but not until over four centuries after her death. (Aug. 30, 2021)

One of several stained glass windows inside the Iglesia-convento de Santa Teresa in Ávila. Teresa of Ávila also called Saint Teresa of Jesus, was a Spanish noblewoman who was called to convent life in the Catholic Church. A Carmelite nun, prominent Spanish mystic, religious reformer, author, theologian of the contemplative life and of mental prayer, she earned the rare distinction of being declared a Doctor of the Church, but not until over four centuries after her death. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The statue of St. Teresa of Ávila by the Puerta de Alcazar in Ávila. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The St. Teresa statue by the Puerta de Alcazar looking across the street to the square named in her honor, the Plaza de Santa Teresa where the Iglesia de San Pedro or Church of San Pedro is located. (Aug. 30, 2021)

Street life inside the Walls of Ávila and its Old Town. (Aug. 28, 2021)

Street life inside the Walls of Ávila and its Old Town. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The Basilica de los Santos Hermanos Mártires, Vicente, Sabina y Cristeta, better known as the Basilica of San Vicente is just outside the Walls of Ávila. The basilica of San Vicente was built outside the walls of the town. Its foundation dates from the 11th century and is dedicated to San Vicente and his sisters Cristeta and Sabina. Building was begun in the Romanesque style, and was finished later according to the Gothic canons. The monastery is protected as part of a World Heritage Site, “Old Town of Avila and its extra muros churches”; it is listed as one of ten extra muros churches (that is, outside the walled city) included in the site. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The Basilica de los Santos Hermanos Mártires, Vicente, Sabina y Cristeta, better known as the Basilica of San Vicente located just outside the Walls of Ávila. The basilica stands on the traditional site of the martyrdom of St. Vincent at the hands of the Romans. According to legend, a rich Jew laughed at the saint’s execution, but afterwards he was nearly suffocated by a serpent that emerged miraculously from the rocks. He repented, converted, and built a church on the site. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The Basilica de los Santos Hermanos Mártires, Vicente, Sabina y Cristeta, better known as the Basilica of San Vicente, as seen from on top the Walls of Ávila and located outside the walls (Aug. 29, 2021)

The west facade entrance gate of the Basilica de los Santos Hermanos Mártires, Vicente, Sabina y Cristeta, better known as the Basilica of San Vicente located just outside the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 30, 2021)

Inside the Basilica of San Vicente located just outside the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 30, 2021)

A close-up of the main altar inside the Basilica of San Vicente located just outside the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The columns inside the Basilica of San Vicente located just outside the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The vault of the central nave and clerestory inside the Basilica of San Vicente located just outside the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The Cenotaph, with carvings of the three martyrs in polychrome stone, under the transversal arch of the Basilica of San Vicente located just outside the Walls of Ávila. A cenotaph is an empty tomb or a monument erected in honor of a person or group of people whose remains are elsewhere. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The Cenotaph, with carvings of the three martyrs in polychrome stone, at the Basilica of San Vicente located just outside the Walls of Ávila. A cenotaph is an empty tomb or a monument erected in honor of a person or group of people whose remains are elsewhere. (Aug. 30, 2021)

Scenes depicting the prosecution of the martyred saints along the southern side of the cenotaph inside the
Basilica of San Vicente just outside the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 30, 2021)

A close-up of the carvings of the saints being tortured along the cenotaph of the Basilica of San Vicente just outside the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The Capilla del Sagrario inside the Basilica of San Vicente just outside the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The side wall of the Capilla del Sagrario inside the Basilica of San Vicente just outside the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The vault and altar in the southern apse chapel inside the Basilica of San Vicente just outside the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 30, 2021)

A close-up of the altar in the southern apse chapel inside the Basilica of San Vicente just outside the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 30, 2021)

Vault in the southern apse chapel of the Basilica of San Vicente just outside the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 30, 2021)

Archway entrance into the Plaza del Mercado Chico, the main square of Ávila and located in the center of the city with the town hall. It is a rectangular square with archways on three sides. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The Plaza del Mercado Chico, the main square inside the Walls of Ávila is located in the center of the old town. (Aug. 28, 2021)

The current neoclassical Town Hall in Old Town Ávila’s Plaza del Mercado Chico in Ávila’s Old Town was built between 1862 and 1872 to replace the previously dilapidated Town Hall. (Aug. 28, 2021)

The Plaza del Mercado Chico located within the Walls of Ávila and in the center of old town. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The Plaza del Mercado Chico and town hall are located within the Walls of Ávila and in the center of old town. (Aug. 30, 2021)

The archway entrance of the Plaza del Mercado Chico and town hall located within the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 30, 2021)

My hotel, the Palacio Valderrabanos (to the right) and within a few feet of the stunning Ávila Cathedral. Staying here for three nights was a pleasure. (Aug. 31, 2021)

The front entrance to my hotel, the Palacio Valderrabanos inside the Walls of Ávila and a few steps away from the Ávila Cathedral. Staying here for three nights was a pleasure. (Aug. 31, 2021)

My room inside the Palacio Valderrabanos located steps away from the Ávila Cathedral and within the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 28, 2021)

My room with bathroom inside the Palacio Valderrabanos located steps away from the Ávila Cathedral and within the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 28, 2021)

The town hall mural painted above my headboard at my room inside the Palacio Valderrabanos located steps away from the Ávila Cathedral and within the Walls of Ávila. (Aug. 31, 2021)

Saying Adios to Ávila and Hola to Salamanca!

I so enjoyed being nestled in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Ávila. Wrapped by its medieval defensive walls while walking along the cobblestone streets and enjoying how modern Ávila has embraced its medieval roots.

And, as I say goodbye to one World Heritage site, I say hello to another, Salamanca.