Kazakhstan: From the City of Almaty to a National Park and Villages

Kazakhstan

Day 15 – Goodbye Tajikistan; Hello Kazakhstan

We caught a less than 2-hour flight from Dushanbe, Tajikistan to Almaty, Kazakhstan, the largest city in Kazakhstan.

Between leaving Tajikistan and arriving in Kazakhstan, we did not get to do much in Almaty. But having a slow day is definitely okay with me. Almaty was the capital of Kazakhstan from 1929 to 1936, while the country was an autonomous republic of the Soviet Union, then from 1936 to 1991, a union republic and finally from 1991, an independent state. In 1997, the government relocated the capital to Akmola, now called Astana.

Along with checking into our hotel and having a delicious dinner at a local restaurant, we also have a new driver, Kabek, and our new local guide, Nazira, for both Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.

For now, settling into Almaty with more sites to come tomorrow.

Where we stayed for our two nights in Almaty, Kazakhstan, the Kazzhol Hotel. (Sept. 22, 2023)

My room at the Kazzhol Hotel in Almaty Kazakhstan. (Sept. 22, 2023)

My bathroom at the Kazzhol Hotel in Almaty Kazakhstan. (Sept. 22, 2023)

Dinner with the group and Imelda at the Navat Yankaha Restaurant in Almaty. (Sept. 22, 2023)

Day 16 – Almaty, Kazakhstan

It turned out to be a pretty full day of sightseeing in Almaty. Starting with a stop at the Arasan Bath complex onto the colorful Ascension Cathedral also known as the Zenkov Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox cathedral while heading towards the historic Panfilov Park, dedicated to the 28 guardsmen who died defending Moscow against Nazi tanks in WWII.

A stop at the Kazakh Museum of Folk Musical Instruments of some 1,000 instruments before moving onto Kok Tobe Hill for cable car views overlooking the city then the Central State Museum of Kazakhstan before taking the metro to end the day.

Here’s to a day in Almaty.

Me inside the Arasan Bath public complex in Almaty. Since 1984, this bath is considered a monument of national importance and a masterpiece of luxurious Soviet bathing. The complex includes oriental, Russian and Finnish baths, a hydropathic establishment, a shower pavilion, and a children’s department. (Sept. 23, 2023)

The exterior of the Arasan Bath public complex in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Inside the Arasan Bath public complex in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

The venik is a bundle of small leafy branches tied together to form something resembling a crude broom used in the steam room to massage the body for sale at the Arasan Bath public complex in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

The colorful wooden Ascension Cathedral also known as the Zenkov Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox cathedral in Panfilov Park in Almaty. The cathedral was built without using any nails between 1904 and 1907. And, somehow it was spared devastation from the 1911 earthquake. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Inside the beautiful and elaborate Ascension Cathedral also known as the Zenkov Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox cathedral in Almaty. The inner structure of the cathedral was made in the artistic workshops of Moscow and Kiev. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Inside the beautiful and elaborate Ascension Cathedral also known as the Zenkov Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox cathedral in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

The floors inside the beautiful and elaborate Ascension Cathedral also known as the Zenkov Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox cathedral in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Me with views of Panfilov Park and the Ascension Cathedral also known as the Zenkov Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox cathedral, in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

The Panfilov Park and the Ascension Cathedral in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

The World War II Monument, the 28 Panfilov Guardsmen, at the Panfilov Park in Almaty. This section of the park is called the Park of 28 Panfilov Guardsmen. It is dedicated to and named after the Panfilov heroes which were the 28 soldiers of an Alma-Ata Infantry unit who allegedly died while defending Moscow from the German invasion during the Second World War. The group gets its name from Ivan Panfilov, the commanding general who managed to significantly delay the Germans advance to Moscow. (Sept. 23, 2023)

The World War II Monument, the 28 Panfilov Guardsmen, at the Panfilov Park in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

An eternal flame commemorating the fallen at the World War II Monument at the Panfilov Park in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

The wooden building of the Kazakh Museum of Folk Musical Instruments at the Panfilov Park in Almaty was built in 1908. (Sept. 23, 2023)

The Dombyra and Qobyz Hall at the Kazakh Museum of Folk Musical Instruments in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

A 1950 copper statue of a musician inside the Kazakh Museum of Folk Musical Instruments of Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Catching the local bus in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Walking through an underground passage in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

An interesting piece of art on our walk to the Kok Tobe Hill and Park cable car ride in Almaty. This old, yellow-painted car has painted apples as its windows. And, oddly enough the Kazakh world for “apple” is Alma and often translated as “full of apples.” (Sept. 23, 2023)

Making our way to the Kok Tobe Hill and Park cable car ride in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Getting on the Kok Tobe Hill and Park cable car to take the ride up to the hill to visit the park area in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Views of Almaty, heading up to its highest point, on the six-minute cable car ride up to Kok Tobe Hill and Park. Kok Tobe is a popular tourist attraction on a small mountain with panoramic views of the city. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Views of Almaty along the six-minute cable car ride up to Kok Tobe Hill and Park in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

On the cable car with some of my Intrepid Travel group up to Kok Tobe Hill and Park in Almaty. From left, Vikki, Jonny, Kimberly, Bethan and me. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Views of Almaty and the cable car from a top the Kok Tobe Hill and Park in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

The views along the cable car were fun but I’m not much of a fan of the touristy rides at the Kok Tobe Park in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Me with the Beatles statue on Kok Tobe Hill and Park in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Heading back down. More views of Almaty on the Kok Tobe cable car. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Walking through Almaty and spotting these irrigation ditches that run through the city. The snowmelt or mountain spring water comes from the Zailisky Alatau mountains. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Irrigation ditches run through Almaty, begins its journey as snowmelt or mountain spring water from the Zailisky Alatau mountains. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Our group walking towards the Central State Museum of Kazakhstan, the largest museum in Almaty and considered one of the largest museums in Central Asia. When first established in 1931, the museum was located in the Almaty Cathedral. It moved to a modern facility in 1985 and is a landmark in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

The Central State Museum of Kazakhstan, the largest museum in Almaty and is considered one of the largest museums in Central Asia. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Inside the Central State Museum of Kazakhstan in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Painting of the countrymen at the Central Museum of Kazakhstan in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Taking the metro in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Our local guide, Nazira, explaining the Almaty metro system to us. (Sept. 23, 2023)

The escalator to the metro in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Walking toward the train platform at the metro in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

The train platform at the train station in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

On the metro train in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

The Jibek Holy metro station in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

The monumental Silk Road map at the Jibek Joly metro station in Almaty. The Silk Road derives its name from the famous silk trade route which connected many trades and cultures creating a sprawling network. (Sept. 23, 2023)

A close-up of the monumental Silk Road map at the Jibek Joly metro station in Almaty. (Sept. 23, 2023)

My dinner of “Pozharsky,” breaded ground chicken, mashed potatoes, crispy onions and a tomato salsa for 4300 Kazakhstan Tenge or a little less than $10 USD. (Sept. 23, 2023)

Day 17 – The Gorgeous skies and Altyn-Emel National Park with its Singing Dunes

We kissed the city of Almaty goodbye for the wide open spaces of the State National Nature Park of Altyn-Emel or Altyn-Emel National Park with a night at a guest house in Basshi Village.

The Altyn-Emel National Park is the largest national reserve in the country and it’s where we met the Przewalski’s horses, known only in this part of the world, and the Singing Barchan Dune. The crescent-shaped dune is known to sing when the wind is blowing from the west dispersing the sands, sounding like a playing pipe organ. Unlike some of my group, I did not climb to the top of the sand ridge, but I did enjoy the beautiful views.

We already had the pleasure of meeting our local guide, Nazira, and today we met our new van driver, Kazbek, both of whom will be with us for the remainder of our travels through Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.

Here’s to sites on a beautiful drive day to and through the largest national reserve in Kazakhstan.

A beautiful morning to be on the road with a stop for great views of the mountains in Kazakhstan. (Sept. 24, 2023)

Our van with our new driver, Kazbek, at a stop on our way to Altyn-Emel National Park. (Sept. 24, 2023)

A stunning cloud streak against the beautiful blue skies on our way to Altyn-Emel National Park. (Sept. 24, 2023)

The countryside on our drive to Altyn-Emel National Park. (Sept. 24, 2023)

A quick stop at our our guest house stay in the Basshi Village to drop off our luggage, get a quick lunch and head to the singing dunes. (Sept. 24, 2023)

A variety of corn husks on the ground at the Przewalski’s horse farm in the Altyn-Emel National Park. (Sept. 24, 2023)

The Przewalski’s horses, on a horse farm in the Altyn-Emel National Park, are often described as small and stocky. They are heavily built, with a large head, thick neck and short legs. They are dun-colored with a dark zebra-like mane. A dark stripe continues from the mane along the backbone to a dark, plumed tail. (Sept. 24, 2023)

The Przewalski’s horses, on a horse farm in the Altyn-Emel National Park, once ranged throughout Europe and Asia. Competition with man and livestock, as well as changes in the environment, led to the horses moving east to Asia, and eventually becoming extinct in the wild. Today they can only be found in reintroduction sites in Mongolia, China, and Kazakhstan. (Sept. 24, 2023)

The Przewalski’s horses, on a horse farm in the Altyn-Emel National Park, in Kazakhstan. (Sept. 24, 2023)

The entrance to the “Singing Barchan” dune in the Altyn-Emel National Park, a small sandy ridge of about 500 feet or 150 meters high and more than a mile and a half or three kilometers long. (Sept. 24, 2023)

Me at the base of the “Singing Barchan” dune in the Altyn-Emel National Park in Kazakhstan. This sandy ridge is said to be some 3000 to 5000 years old. Fellow travelers climbed up the ridge of the dune. (Sept. 24, 2023)

The “Singing Barchan” dune in the Altyn-Emel National Park in Kazakhstan. (Sept. 24, 2023)

A view of the mountain side around the panorama of the “Singing Barchan” dune in the Altyn-Emel National Park in Kazakhstan. (Sept. 24, 2023)

Evening views, with our Soviet-era van along the rocky roads of the State National Nature Park of Altyn-Emel on our way back to our guest house stay in Basshi Village. (Sept. 24, 2023)

The still gorgeous clouds and horizon of the State National Nature Park of Altyn-Emel on our way back to our guest house stay in Basshi Village. (Sept. 24, 2023)

The still gorgeous clouds and horizon of the State National Nature Park of Altyn-Emel on our way back to our guest house stay at Basshi Village. (Sept. 24, 2023)

My room at our guest house stay in the Basshi Village was in a nice building with separate rooms. So, I did not have to share a room, which turned out to be great because I slept so good. It was cold, in the 50s but the blankets were warm. I wanted to take a shower but there was no hot water so I settled for a quick wash in the sink, cold water and all. (Sept. 24, 2023)

The food at our guest house stay in Basshi Village was not the best tasting on this trip. This soup was descent, but my bag of Lays potatoes, red wine (which is what’s in the coffee cup) along with conversing with members of my travel group turned out to be the best part about staying here. (Sept. 24, 2023)

Day 18 – Long drive to Saty Village with a stop at Charyn Canyon

I don’t often give credit to the weather, but I have to give a shout out to Mother Nature for these blue sky/cool air days as we spent time in nature. I may be a city girl but on days like today, where we get to see the natural beauty of a country, I can put my city girl ways aside and enjoy the call of nature especially after a long hours of driving across bumpy roads inside a shaky van.

One thing for sure, driving through Kazakhstan is that the government should invest in better roads, even the Romans knew that. Roads means more and better commerce. I can manage with a lot of things but bumpy drives are really difficult on the old body.

Getting to the Charyn Canyon National Park and being able to walk along the ridge on a 60 °F or 15 °C sunny day made the rocky road ride worth it. just enough wind, was perfect. I needed to get out and walk. It was the perfect tonic to release the tensions and discomfort of the bumpy road. The Charyn Canyon features huge rock formations rising high above several rivers.

From there we made our way to Saty Village for our two-night homestay.

After a couple of hours of driving, it was time for lunch. Yay! (Sept. 25, 2023)

I’m a pretty basic eater so this chicken, potatoes and veggies plate worked well for me for lunch. (Sept. 25, 2023)

Our colorful restaurant where we stopped, after a couple of hours of driving, for lunch. (Sept. 25, 2023)

There are a variety of stone carvings along the highway to Charyn Canyon National Park. We stopped at this one for the eagle and the views. (Sept. 25, 2023)

The views from the carved eagle along the highway to Charyn Canyon National Park. (Sept. 25, 2023)

Back on the road, through the mountainous-desert area, as we made our way to Charyn Canyon National Park. (Sept. 25, 2023)

Entering the Charyn Canyon National Park. (Sept. 25, 2023)

The Charyn Canyon National Park, also known as Sharyn Canyon, is a canyon on the Sharyn River in Kazakhstan, about 120 miles or 200 kilometers east of Almaty and close to the Chinese border. (Sept. 25, 2023)

Me at the Charyn Canyon National Park with views of the Valley of Castles, huge rock formations resembling castles. (Sept. 25, 2023)

The Charyn Canyon National Park in Kazakhstan. (Sept. 25, 2023)

Me at the Charyn Canyon National Park in Kazakhstan. (Sept. 25, 2023)

The overlook area of the Charyn Canyon National Park in Kazakhstan. (Sept. 25, 2023)

A river bed at the Charyn Canyon National Park in Kazakhstan. (Sept. 25, 2023)

Countryside views on our drive to our home stay in Saty Village. (Sept. 25, 2023)

Our accommodation for the next two nights was at another home stay but in Saty Village. These again were supposed to be multi-share rooms, but I was once again, able to get my own room, but the bathrooms/showers were multi-share, which turned out to be great. (Sept. 25. 2023)

The common room at our home stay in the Saty Village with a view into the shared bathroom/shower area. (Sept. 25, 2023)

My room at our 2-night homestay for the Charyn Canyon National Park and the Kolsai Lakes. (Sept. 25, 2023)

The table was set for dinner at our guest house stay in the country village of Saty, and this one had good food. A good hearty home cooked meal for breakfast, lunch and at the end of the day goes a long way and that was definitely the case for this wonderful country hideaway. (Sept. 25, 2023)

Enjoying dinner with our wonderful local guide, Nazira, thru Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Jam was still our wonderful Intrepid leader, but it was nice to have two kind and enthusiastic people to count on and enjoy. Photo by Liz Ko. (Sept. 25, 2023)

Day 19 – A Day of Lakes and Hiking from our Home Stay of Saty Village

It was a day of blue skies with a slight coolness in the air. Two combinations perfectly made for a beautiful day to be outdoors experiencing the lakes of Kazakhstan; Kolsay and Kaindy.

While still staying at our homestay in Saty Village, we ventured to the Kolsai Lakes in the morning for a walk around shimmering turquoise lakes located high in the Tian Shan Mountain Range of Southeast Kazakstan.

After a quick lunch break at our homestay, we ventured to the lesser-known Kaindy Lake, a stunning turquoise lake with a striking ‘submerged forest’ protruding from the water. Although we were driven to the entrance, it was quite the hike to get to the lake area for me, but it was worth the hike.

A hearty home cooked meal after the hike was exactly what I needed, plus a hot shower and a rest. Here’s to a day of lakes.

Me at the clear blue waters surrounded by the lush trees and mountains at the Kolsai Lakes National Park. Kolsai (Kolsay in Kazakh) is a system of three shimmering turquoise lakes at Kungei Alatau mountain ridge of the Northern Tien Shan. The lakes were formed due to a powerful earthquake that took place in the late 19th center. (Sept. 26, 2023)

The clear blue waters surrounded by the lush trees and mountains at the Kolsai Lakes National Park. (Sept. 26, 2023)

One of the hiking trails around the Upper Kolsai Lakes National Park. (Sept. 26, 2023)

The hiking trail I took around the Lower Kolsai Lakes National Park. (Sept. 26, 2023)

Views from the hiking trail I took around the Lower Kolsai Lakes National Park. (Sept. 26, 2023)

Sheep grazing on our drive back to our homestay in Saty Village for lunch. (Sept. 26, 2023)

For lunch we returned back to our homestay in Saty Village for a home cooked meal before our next outdoor adventure, a hike to Kaindy Lake. (Sept. 26, 2023)

Our group ‘enjoying’ the tight bumpy ride along a dirt road in our Soviet-era van to explore Kaindy Lake near Saty Village. From left: our local guide, Nazira, Scott, Liz, Imelda, Spence and me. (Sept. 26, 2023)

The rocky and bumpy dirt road view from inside our Soviet-era van on our way to explore Kaindy Lake near our homestay in Saty Village. (Sept. 26, 2023)

Our Soviet-era van dropped us off at the parking lot and we began our mile-long hike through the dirt road pathway to Kaindy Lake. This was a tough hike for me, but I kept going. (Sept. 26, 2023)

Continue walking up the dirt road through the forest to Kaindy Lake. (Sept. 26, 2023)

Kaindy Lake was formed after an earthquake in 1911, which caused a major landslide, effectively creating a natural dam. Rainwater eventually filled the valley and created the stunning turquoise lake with a striking submerged forest protruding from the water. (Sept. 26, 2023)

Me at Kaindy Lake, the stunning turquoise lake with a submerged forest protruding from the water. (Sept. 26, 2023)

Kaindy Lake, a mountain lake of the Tian Shan Mountains, close to Saty Village in Kazakhstan. (Sept. 26, 2023)

Our wonderful and kind Intrepid leader, Jam and me at Kaindy Lake, a moun

Okay one more photo of me at Kaindy Lake, a mountain lake of the Tian Shan Mountains, close to Saty Village in Kazakhstan. This was a difficult hike for me so I’m I’ve myself kudos for making it to the lake. (Sept. 26, 2023)

The driver of our Soviet-era van repairing a flat tire at the entryway of Kaindy Lake where he parked to wait on us during our hike. (Sept. 26, 2023)

Waiting at a little snack station just outside the walking path entrance to Kaindy Lake. (Sept. 26, 2023)

The cemetery off the main highway in Saty Village. (Sept. 26, 2023)

Dinner at our Saty Village homestay was this delicious Kazakh Beef Plov and salad. This version is made of meat, rice, onion, carrots and spices. (Sept. 26, 2023)

Day 20 – Crossing the border into Kyrgyzstan

We left our homestay at Saty Village around 9:00 am to take the 3-hour or so drive to cross the border our way to Kyrgyzstan. This was all about the drive and the views to the border.

Packing up to get on the road from Saty Village in Kazakhstan to the border of Kyrgyzstan. (Sept. 27, 2023)

Passing the cemetery of the Saty Village on our way to the Kyrgyzstan border. (Sept. 27, 2023)

Views of the mountainous countryside in Kazakhstan on our way to the Kyrgyzstan border. (Sept. 27, 2023)

Views of the countryside in Kazakhstan on our way to the Kyrgyzstan border. (Sept. 27, 2023)

Passing another cemetery along the road on our drive through Kazakhstan just before entering the Kyrgyzstan border. (Sept. 27, 2023)

Views of the snowcapped mountains in the countryside of Kazakhstan on our way to the Kyrgyzstan border. (Sept. 27, 2023)

A stop along the road to stretch and take a look at the views of the mountainous countryside in Kazakhstan on our way to the Kyrgyzstan border. (Sept. 27, 2023)

Views of the snow capped mountains as we drive through Kazakhstan just before entering the Kyrgyzstan border. (Sept. 27, 2023)

Views of the snow capped mountains as we drive through Kazakhstan just before entering the Kyrgyzstan border. Photo by Liz Ko. (Sept. 27, 2023)

A herd of sheep with views of the snow capped mountains as we drove through Kazakhstan just before entering the Kyrgyzstan border. Photo by Liz Ko. (Sept. 27, 2023)

10Comments

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1

Andi on February 29, 2024 at 2:07 pm

Your photos are stunning, as usual. Wow! What an adventure!!
- 2
  
  Diana Petterson on March 1, 2024 at 10:36 am
  
  Wow Andi, thank you so much! And, yes, it really was quite the adventure! Central Asia is so worth exploring.
3

Carolyn Thieme on March 1, 2024 at 1:40 pm

Your pics of the clouds are stunning!! Have almost the same photos from Almaty at around the same time.
- 4
  
  Diana Petterson on March 3, 2024 at 12:40 pm
  
  Hi Carolyn! Yes, those clouds were definitely stunning and quite unusual. I’m glad you got to see them too during your travels in Kazakhstan.
5

Pat on March 4, 2024 at 6:01 pm

Fantastic photos and commentary!!
- 6
  
  Diana Petterson on March 4, 2024 at 10:09 pm
  
  Hi, thanks so much Pat!
7

Debra on March 5, 2024 at 12:25 pm

Stunning pictures and Beautiful adventure!
- 8
  
  Diana Petterson on March 6, 2024 at 5:00 pm
  
  Hey Debra! Thanks so much!
9

Tammy Wu on March 9, 2024 at 12:45 am

Diana, Love to visit these places one day! Thank you for sharing !
- 10
  
  Diana Petterson on March 11, 2024 at 7:48 pm
  
  Hi Tammy! You are so welcome my dear! And, thanks so much!