On My Own in Portugal – My Travel Notions

After 30 minutes of winding thru the passport lines with literally hundreds of other travelers at the Lisbon Airport, I finally got to the Portugal passport agent. He barely looked at the passenger locator form I had to have nor did he ask me for any other documents. Instead, he went straight to my passport and after looking at my photo he says, in the sweetest, sexiest English with warm, glowing eyes, “Diana, let me see your face.” So, I obliged and pulled down my mask. Welcome to Portugal.

This is not my first time in Portugal. The last time I was here was in 2013 on a Rick Steves tour with my friend Debra. This time, I am on my own at least thru Portugal. Last year, my childhood friend and I decided to walk the Camino Portuguese with Wild Women Expeditions. Since the tour starts in Vigo, Spain, which is close to the border of Portugal, I thought it would be a good idea to spend sometime traveling in Portugal before meeting with our Camino group in Vigo. My friend could not make it because of family obligations but I decided to move forward with my plans.

This is Easter week and Sintra, Portugal, tourism is alive and well. Unlike my travels in Spain last year, people from all over are traveling, including us Americans.

Sintra is just outside of Lisbon. Most people make Sintra a day trip from Lisbon but I wanted to spend sometime in this hilly, green UNESCO World Heritage Site. Known as Moon Hill, Sintra is a place full of magic and mystery.

With no sleep on the plane again, things to do and a beautiful but slightly cool day, I made it thru the cobblestones, hilly and winding streets of Sintra to see the the National Palace of Pena and the ruins of the Castle of the Moors. Here’s what I saw in Sintra on my first day in Portugal.

Sintra

The National Palace of Pena in Sintra. (April 14, 2022)

The Courtyard of Arches at the National Palace of Pena in Sintra. (April 14, 2022)

The Triton Tunnel or terrace at the National Palace of Pena in Sintra is a mythological monster that is half-man and half-fish. (April 14, 2022)

Here’s a closer look at the Triton Tunnel or terrace at the National Palace of Pena in Sintra is a mythological monster that is half-man and half-fish. (April 14, 2022)

Another decorative passageway at the National Palace of Pena in Sintra. (April 14, 2022)

Exterior views while entering the the National Palace of Pena in Sintra. (April 14, 2022)

Even though I had purchased a timed ticket to get into the interior of the National Palace of Pena in Sintra, I still had to wait in line for about 40 minutes to get into the interior. But it was so worth the wait! (April 14, 2022)

Views from inside and overlooking the National Palace of Pena in Sintra at the top of a hill in the Sintra Mountains. (April 14, 2022)

Me standing at the Queen’s Terrace with an overview of the National Palace of Pena in Sintra. (April 14, 2022)

Inside the Manueline Cloister of the National Palace of Pena in Sintra. The patron walls of the two floors are covered in 16th century Hispano-Moresque tiles. In the conversion of the monastery into a palace, the arches were closed off with windows and the cloister galleries began serving as corridors. In the 1930s, these windows were removed. (April 14, 2022)

A close-up of some of the 16th century Hispano-Moresque tiles used on the inside of the Manueline Cloister of the National Palace of Pena in Sintra. (April 14, 2022)

The Dining Room of the National Palace of Pena in Sintra. The room is lined with tiles by Fábrica Roseira and furniture made to order by Casa Barbosa e Costa (Lisbon) in 1866 that together endow this room with its current appearance. (April 14, 2022)

The Great Hall, the main space for hosting receptions, inside the at the National Palace of Pena in Sintra. The furniture made for this room, including the torchbearers and chandelier, were commissioned from Casa Barbosa e Costa (Lisbon) in 1866. (April 14, 2022)

The Great Hall inside the at the National Palace of Pena in Sintra. (April 14, 2022)

The very elaborate Main Kitchen of the National Palace of Pena in Sintra. The copper utensils are marked with the symbol PP (Palace of Pena) and the crowned monogram of King Ferdinand Il. (April 14, 2022)

Just a travel note, take the bus. You can walk up to the National Palace of Pena and the Castle of the Moors, but the narrow, windy roads are busy with traffic. (April 14, 2022)

A map of the Castelo dos Mouros or Castle of the Moors in Sintra, built in the 8th and 9th centuries bears witness to the Islamic presence in the region. April 14, 2022)

The outer wall entrance of the Castelo dos Mouros or Castle of the Moors ruins in Sintra. It stands high above Sintra and during the Moorish era (8-12th century) this once mighty castle defended the entire region. (April 14, 2022)

Inside the outer wall and circle wall entrance ruins of the Moors Castle in Sintra offered security to the populations that tended to settle on the hillsides of the fort. (April 14, 2022)

This may look like a pile of rocks and moss, but it’s actually the remains of Islamic houses at the Castle of the Moors ruins in Sintra. The Muslim occupants of the castle settled along the south-eastern slope of the hill where the foundations of houses and silos were found. Typical artefacts from 10th-12th century Islamic culture were discovered, as well as remains of deer, sheep and goat, wild boar and fox, broad beans, and peach, plum and olive stones. Remains of Neolithic (5000 BC) occupation have also been identified in all excavated areas of the castle, which indicates a widespread settlement. (April 14, 2022)

The ruined remains of the Castelo dos Mouros or Castle of the Moors on the hilltop of Sintra. (April 14, 2022)

Me at the ruined remains of the Castelo dos Mouros or Castle of the Moors on the hilltop of Sintra. (April 14, 2022)

Looking down into the town of Sintra and the Palace of Sintra from up high at the Castle of the Moors. For a long time, this was the summer residence of royal family. More about the town and this palace to come. (April 14, 2022)

A close-up of the town of Sintra and the Palace of Sintra from up high at the Castle of the Moors. (April 14, 2022)

I have so enjoyed hanging out in Sintra. Took a Sintra Medieval Walking Tour thru GuruWalk with Francisco and it was the best 2.5 hour free walking tour I’ve ever taken. A local with both historical knowledge and storytelling finesse, Francisco is a jewel of a treasure to hangout with. I don’t often do this but if you’re ever in Sintra, take his walking tour. Be prepared to log in some steps but it is so worth it!

The Knights Templar, those elite fighting units during the Crusades, who were also known for their religious zeal and fearlessness, were founded around 1118 and soon formed commanderies around Europe to support their efforts in the Holy Land. Portugal, in the Braga region, was the first country in Europe where they settled around 1122. They received donations and also bought land. But Sintra also has its own history with the Knights Templar evidence of which can be seen in a variety of locations. I’ll be stepping foot into a couple of them.

Along with the Knights Templar there’s also the distinctive Manueline architecture. And, what is that you ask? During the reign of Manuel I (1495-1521) the Age of Discoveries and Portuguese Renaissance was in full swing and Portugal’s expanding empire brought riches into the country.

The Manueline style, named after the king of course, is occasionally known as Portuguese Late Gothic and what defines it is the use of lavish, themed ornamentation. Doorways, columns and windows would be encrusted in opulently carved stonework which might be considered over the top if it were not so beautiful.

After the walking tour I was quite tired but I could not pass up the opportunity to see, at least some of the sprawling Quinta da Regaleira.

Quinta is the term used for an estate in Portugal and and the Portuguese-speaking world. Regaleira consists of a Romantic palace and chapel and so much more including grottoes, wells, decorative benches and fountains. And, the Manueline architecture is flowing throughout the Quinta or estate.

Come join me for more of Sintra.

Me, in Sintra’s historic center, about to guzzle down the drink of Portugal, Ginja or ginjinha, a cherry-like liqueur served in an edible small chocolate cup. (April 15, 2022)

The little shop, along Sintra’s historic center where I purchased the one euro Ginja or Ginjinha, the cherry-like liqueur that’s served in either a dark or white chocolate edible small cup. (April 15, 2022)

The Rua das Padeiras in Sintra’s historic center is where many tourist shops with Portuguese products are located. (April 15, 2022)

Walking up and along the Rua das Padeiras in Sintra’s historic center, with its ornate cobblestone streets, is where many tourist shops with Portuguese products are located. (April 15, 2022)

The historic center of Sintra where the cobblestone steps and streets take you up and back down again. (April 15, 2022)

The historic center of Sintra with its ornate cobblestone streets. (April 15, 2022)

The Camara Municipal de Sintra, completed around 1910, is the Manueline style Town Hall located at the top of the main thoroughfare, the Volta do Duche, a street with sculptured walkways and artists that leads to the Sintra National Palace in the historic center. (April 15, 2022)

Keeping the tradition of fairytale architecture, the extravagant Sintra Town Hall, completed around 1910, in a style inspired by Portugal’s Manueline-style features a clock tower topped by a tile-covered spire flanked by four smaller spires. The elaborate pillory is topped with the cross of the Knights Templar. (April 15, 2022)

A close-up of the top of the elaborate pillory in front of Sintra’s Town Hall. It is inspired by Manueline architecture and topped by the cross of the Knights Templar. (April 15, 2022)

The Manueline styled spire of the Sintra Town Hall is glazed with reflective green and white tiles displaying motifs of the Portuguese coat of arms and the Christian Cross of the Knights Templar. On the top of the tower’s central pyramid is a sphere. (April 15, 2022)

Sculptures and vendors adorn the tree-lined walkways Volta do Duche, the main thoroughfare thru Sintra from the railway station to the historic center. (April 15, 2022)

This sculpture along the Volta do Duche in Sintra is by Moises Preto Paulo of Portugal and is called Romança-Vergel. (April 15, 2022)

Another sculpture I like along the Volta do Duche in Sintra is another one by Moises Preto Paulo of Portugal called the Alcoveto Vésper. (April 15, 2022)

Also along the Volta do Duche in Sintra is the Fonte Mourisca or the Moorish Fountain which was designed by Coimbra, Portugal, born sculptor José da Fonseca in 1922. The most striking feature is its exaggerated arabesque style. Neo-árabe was a popular revivalist style during the later years of the Romanticism Era. Three large horse-shoe arches form the entrance. Faced inside and out with fine neo-Mudejar azulejos tiles and colourful stucco work. And, just an FYI, the Mudejar style in architecture refers to the application of decorative Islamic art styled motifs and patterning to Christian styles of architecture. Plus, azulejo are principally Portuguese painted ceramic tile works produced from the 14th century onward and can be seen in various places in Sintra and Lisbon. (April 15, 2022)

The Seteais Palace in Sintra was built between 1783 and 1787 for the Dutch consul Daniel Gildemeester, on lands granted by the Marquis of Pombal. Pombal led Portugal’s recovery from the 1755 Lisbon earthquake and modernized the kingdom’s administrative, economic, and ecclesiastical institutions. This former palace is now a five star hotel close to the Quinta da Regaleira. (April 15, 2022)

The former neoclassical Seteais Palace in Sintra is now a five star hotel. (April 15, 2022)

The triumphal arch at the former neoclassical Seteais Palace in Sintra was erected in honor of the 1802 visit of King João VI of Portugal and Queen Carlota Joaquina of Spain. (April 15, 2022)

From the other side of the triumphal arch at the former neoclassical Seteais Palace in Sintra and now a five star hotel with views of the National Palace of Pena high-up in the Sintra Mountains. (April 15, 2022)

Haven’t taken one of these feet selfies in a long time, but here in Sintra with these gorgeous cobblestone streets, I’m giving praise to the bottom of my feet for keeping me going even though they are aching. (April 15, 2022)

Me inside the Quinta (estate) da Regaleira in Sintra with the distinguished Regaleira Palace, which bears the same name of the entire estate, behind me. It was built between 1898 and 1913. Quinta is a traditional term for an estate, primarily used in Portugal and the Portuguese-speaking world. (April 15, 2022)

The Regaleira Palace, which bears the same name of the entire estate, the Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra. The exterior of the palace with its flamboyant neo-Gothic Manueline architecture, elaborate stone carvings, gargoyles, turrets and other ornate features. (April 15, 2022)

An ornate gazebo on an ornate bridge (to the left) over the lower gate in front of the Regaleira Palace at the Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra. (April 15, 2022)

The bridge and wall at the Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra. (April 15, 2022)

A close-up of the ornate gazebo on the ornate bridge over the lower gate in front of the Regaleira Palace at the Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra.(April 15, 2022)

A street-side view of the Quinta (estate) da Regaleira in Sintra. (April 15, 2022)

A street-side view of the ornate bridge and gardens of the Quinta (estate) da Regaleira in Sintra. (April 15, 2022)

The exterior main entrance into the Regaleira Palace at the Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra. (April 15, 2022)

The rich carving on the exterior window of the Regaleira Palace at the Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra. (April 15, 2022)

The Hunting Room with its Venetian polychrome mosaic floor of birds and plants at the Regaleira Palace in the Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra. (April 15, 2022)

The interior entrance to the Regaleira Palace at the Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra. (April 15, 2022)

The Renaissance Room or visiting room of the Regaleira Palace in the Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra. This is where guests were received. Decorated in the Italian Renaissance style with a coffered ceiling, in oak tree wood by the local woodcarver master Júlio da Fonseca. The oak tree wood panels are adorned with neo-renaissance vegetation motifs and grotesques. (April 15, 2022)

A closer look at the oak tree wood coffered ceiling of the Renaissance Room at the Regaleira Palace in the Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra. The oak tree wood panels are adorned with neo-renaissance vegetation motifs and grotesques. (April 15, 2022)

The Kings Room, the former Billiard Room, at the Regaleira Palace in the Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra. Its ceiling was decorated with portraits of 20 Kings and four Queens of Portugal. (April 15, 2022)

A close-up of some of the portraits decorated on the ceiling of the Kings Room at the Regaleira Palace in the Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra. (April 15, 2022)

The Fountain of Abundance at the Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra. There are fountains tunnels and grottos at the Quinta, estate. (April 15, 2022)

A grotto, one of several, at the Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra. (April 15, 2022)

The gardens of the Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra. (April 15, 2022)

The main entrance of the Quinta da Regaleira’s Chapel in Sintra. It is a neo-Manueline masterpiece, designed by Luigi Manini and built between 1903 and 1908. You can’t go in the church because it’s roped off but you can see inside it. (April 15, 2022)

Side view of the Quinta da Regaleira’s Chapel in Sintra. The exterior is just sumptuous. (April 15, 2022)

The main entrance of the Quinta da Regaleira’s Chapel in Sintra. (April 15, 2022)

The stucco carvings above the main entrance of the Quinta da Regaleira’s Chapel in Sintra. (April 15, 2022)

Inside the Quinta da Regaleira’s Chapel in Sintra is a fresco above the altar of the resurrected Jesus Christ crowning the Virgin Mary or is it Mary Magdalene, not sure. Either way, its such a gorgeous little chapel. (April 15, 2022)

The floor inside the Quinta da Regaleira’s Chapel in Sintra shows the Order of Christ Cross (Portuguese: Cruz da Ordem de Cristo), also known as the Cross of Portugal (Cruz de Portugal) or the Portuguese Cross (Cruz Portuguesa). It is a cross symbol of Portugal, originating in the Portuguese Order of Christ, founded around 1319. The order, in all essence of the word, were ‘Knights Templar’ whom continued their operations from their headquarters in Tomar, Santarém Portugal. (April 15, 2022)

Me sitting on an ornate Manueline-styled bench between the chapel and the palace at the stunning Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra. (April 15, 2022)

I’m so glad I decided to spend two nights in Sintra. I’ve so enjoyed getting to really know this gem and to really appreciate its historical charm. Here’s just a little more of Sintra, including the Sintra National Palace before I made my way to Lisbon.

The Sintra National Palace dominates the town of Sintra as seen from the Castle of the Moors. (April 14, 2022)

The National Palace of Sintra with its cone-shaped chimneys is actually a series of royal palaces. The date the first building is said to be around the 11th or 12th centuries when the Iberian Peninsula was under Islamic rule. From the 13th-16th century, it was transformed and expanded into a set of various buildings, or palaces, designed to meet the needs of the monarchy. The most notable exterior feature are the two massive chimneys, which protrude from the kitchens. The palace has also been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (April 16, 2022)

The National Palace of Sintra with its cone-shaped chimneys. (April 15, 2022)

The Great Hall of the palace of King João I and Queen Philippa of Lancaster also called the Swans Hall because of the ceiling inside the National Palace of Sintra. The earthquake in 1755 razed part of the walls and the ceiling, but they were rebuilt shortly afterwards. (April 16, 2022)

A close-up of the Swan Hall ceiling inside the National Palace of Sintra. (April 16, 2022)

The Audience Pation inside the National Palace of Sintra. This patio, with Renaissance columns (15th century), throne and bench with
Hispanic-Moorish tiles suggest that this was a place where meetings or audiences were held. Outdoor meetings were common until the 16h century. The courtyard was later covered and remained so until the end of the monarchy in 1910. (April 16, 2022)

The Central Courtyard of the National Palace of Sintra. Allows access to the various rooms in the palace of King João I and Queen Philippa without having to walk through every room. The upper floor, on whose exterior one can see a 16th century mural, can be directly accessed via the spiral staircase. In the centre there is a water jet in the form of a twisted column (16th century). The most notable exterior feature are the two massive chimneys, which protrude from the kitchens. (April 16, 2022)

The Heraldic Hall inside the National Palace of Sintra. This square room entire piano nobile of the tower built by King Manuel I in the 16th century. The octagonal dome (1517-1518) contains the coats of arms of the families of Portuguese nobility
with the royal coat of arms at the top. The walls are clad in tiles showing scenes of gallantry in the 18th century. (April 16, 2022)

The royal coat of arms on the ceiling of the octaganol dome of the Heraldic Hall inside the National Palace of Sintra built by King Manuel I in the 16th century. (April 16, 2022)

The Heraldic Hall inside the National Palace of Sintra. This square room of the tower, with its octagonal dome, was built by King Manuel I in the 16th century. The octagonal dome (1517-1518) of this square room contains the coats of arms of the families of Portuguese nobility with the royal coat of arms at the top. (April 16, 2022)

The walls of the Heraldic Hall inside the National Palace of Sintra are clad in tiles showing scenes of gallantry in the 18th century. (April 16, 2022)

The Chapel inside the National Palace of Sintra was originally built in the reign of King Dinis and Isabel of Aragon (13th century), but altered and enlarged in the reign of King Afonso V (1432-1481), the Chapel was significantly remodelled in the 18th and 19th centuries, though the decoration on the walls was restored in the 20th century based on discovered fragments.
The Mudéjar ceiling is one of the finest examples still existing in Portugal. (April 16, 2022)

The chapel inside the National Palace of Sintra. (April 16, 2022)

The Chapel ceiling inside the National Palace of Sintra. (April 16, 2022)

Inside the kitchens and the two coned-chimneys of the National Palace of Sintra. (April 16, 2022)

Me inside the Water Grotto in the courtyard of the National Palace of Sintra was built at the end of the 15th century or beginning of the 16th century and redecorated in the 18th. The water jets that squirt from tiny holes in the walls provide a playful element.
The stucco on the ceiling depicts the creation of the world (central composition), the four seasons (corners) and mythological themes. (April 16, 2022)

The Water Grotto in the courtyard of the National Palace of Sintra was built at the end of the 15th century or beginning of the 16th century and redecorated in the 18th. The water jets that squirt from tiny holes in the walls provide a playful element.
The stucco on the ceiling depicts the creation of the world (central composition), the four seasons (corners) and mythological themes. (April 16, 2022)

A close-up of a portion of the Water Grotto ceiling in the courtyard of the National Palace of Sintra. The stucco on the ceiling depicts the creation of the world (central composition), the four seasons (corners) and mythological themes. (April 16, 2022)

Views of Sintra from the garden of the National Palace of Sintra. (April 16, 2022)

The São Martinho De Sintra church which has also been dubbed the Knights Templar Church. The original church was possibly built between 1147 and 1154 by the first King of Portugal, Alfonso Henriques, after the reconquest of the territory from the Muslim military power. It was one of four Christian churches/temples, the king had built. But the church was destroyed in the earthquake of 1755 and eventually rebuilt in 1773. This is not the front of the church. It is actually the rear of the church facing out to beautiful views of Sintra. (April 14, 2022)

Inside of the altar of the São Martinho De Sintra church which has also been dubbed the Knights Templar church. (April 14, 2022)

Views of Sintra from the São Martinho De Sintra church which has also been dubbed the Knights Templar Church. (April 14, 2022)

Views of Sintra the Sintra National Palace. (April 16, 2022)

Views of the town of Sintra from the steps of the National Palace of Sintra. (April 14, 2022)

Views of the town of Sintra with views of the Castle of the Moors ruins on the distant hillside. (April 14, 2022)

Views of my hotel, Tivoli from the gardens of the National Palace of Sintra. (April 16, 2022)

Views of Sintra from my hotel room at the Tivoli Hotel. (April 14, 2022)

A night view, from my Hotel Tivoli, of the Castelo dos Mouros or Castle of the Moors glowing on the hillside in Sintra. (April 14, 2022)

Lisbon

Wear good comfortable shoes and be prepared to climb hundreds of cobblestone stairs and walk up cobblestone streets if you want to see the sites in Lisbon. The bottom of my feet, knees and hips have taken a bit of a pummeling but I’m refusing to give in, at least not yet.

I walked up and through parts of the oldest neighborhood in Lisbon called the Alfama and the Baixa or Downtown Pombaline area of Lisbon where I’m staying and is considered the heart of the city for shopping and banking…plus, it’s flatter.

An important point in Lisbon’s history is the great earthquake of 1755 which was followed by a tsunami and a fire that destroyed most of the city. Some 90,000 people in Lisbon proper perished. The rebuilding of Lisbon began a month after the earthquake. The prime minister, Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, known by history as the Marquis of Pombal, became the person who would rebuild and redefine Lisbon. He selected a plan that would replace the narrow streets of the medieval district with straight avenues and grand plazas – and this is the Baixa or Downtown Pambaline area of today.

Let’s check out some of Lisbon.

Me at the Miradouro das Portas do Sol overlooking the Alfama neighborhood in Lisbon. Basically the Portas do Sol is a large balcony-like area with this magnificent viewpoint of the city of Lisbon, in its eastern part, that combines a variety of views including the Church and Monastery of São Vicente de Fora (left) and the National Pantheon or church of Santa Engrácia (right). (April 17, 2022)

Views from the Miradouro das Portas do Sol terrace that stretch over the eastern part of the history Alfama neighborhood to the Tagus River with the cruise ships docked at the port. (April 17, 2022)

The Largo de Santa Luzia by the Miradouro das Portas do Sol in the historic Alfama neighborhood of Lisbon. (April 17, 2022)

The tram at the Largo Santa Luzia by the Miradouro das Portas do Sol in the historic Alfama neighborhood of Lisbon. The trams have been in operation since 1873. (April 17, 2022)

The Statue of St. Vincent, Lisbon’s patron saint, at the Largo Santa Luzia by the Miradouro das Portas do Sol in the historic Alfama neighborhood of Lisbon. And, in the distance is his namesake Church and Monastery of São Vicente de Fora. (April 17, 2022)

Often called the Lisbon Cathedral or simply the the Sé (Sé de Lisboa), the Cathedral of Saint Mary Major, a Roman Catholic cathedral, is considered the oldest church in the city. Built in 1147, the cathedral has survived many earthquakes, modifications and restorations. (April 17, 2022)

Still exploring the historic Alfama neighborhood of Lisbon. And, oh yes, more stairs. (April 17, 2022)

The pink house is said to be one of the oldest houses in the historic Alfama neighborhood of Lisbon to have survived the 1755 earthquake. (April 17, 2022)

Housing in the historic Lisbon neighborhood of Alfama. (April 17, 2022)

Portrait plaques honoring the mature women as the soul of the historic Alfama neighborhood in Lisbon. Meet Emilia Santos and Fernanda Pereira who lived door to door from one another for 44 years in the center of San Miguel Street. Many of the women are credited with keeping out chain stores, big hotels and businesses in order to keep the Alfama a true neighborhood. (April 17, 2022)

More stairs and wall art in the historic Alfama neighborhood of Lisbon. (April 17, 2022)

Wall art in the historic Alfama neighborhood of Lisbon. (April 17, 2022)

An Alfama neighborhood woman who makes her own cherry liquor Ginja set up in a busy alleyway with customers clamoring for her product. And, yes, I could not pass up another chance to enjoy cherry liquor in an edible chocolate cup. (April 17, 2022)

Free walking tour guide Sara, wearing the overalls, gatering our in the tight alleyway to toast “Saúde” with our Ginja. Oh, and more stairs to climb up. (April 17, 2022)

We did not visit the São Jorge Castle, which is thru the gate, but moved on through the historic Alfama neighborhood of Lisbon. The castle itself was founded in the 10th and 11th centuries, when Lisbon was an important Moorish port. In 1147, the first king of Portugal, Dom Afonso Henriques, captured both the castle and the city from the Moors. (April 17, 2022)

I’m not sure why these are called cobblestone streets because they really feel like smooth rocky streets as we continued to make our way through the historic Alfama neighborhood of Lisbon. (April 17, 2022)

Coming down the stairs of São Cristovão into the Mouraria neighborhood of Lisbon which where Fado, the Portuguese form of music characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics was said to have been born. (April 17, 2022)

The Escadinhas de São Cristóvão or the stairs of São Cristovão in the Moravia neighborhood is where this colorful mural seeks to tell the story of Fado, the Portuguese form of music characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics reflecting the often harsh realities of everyday life. Fado is said to have originated in the neighborhood. (April 17, 2022)

Maria Severa, of the Escadinhas de São Cristóvão mural in the Moravia neighborhood of Lisbon, is said to be the first fadista, or fado singer, ever and a Portuguese legend. (April 17, 2022)

A musician playing Fado music on a viola (fado guitar) and the old woman on the balcony dressed in black with the Castelo de São Jorge to her left are a part of the Escadinhas de São Cristóvão mural in the the Moravia neighborhood of Lisbon. (April 17, 2022)

The neighborhood ladies dressed in black whispering to one another in front of their doors are also a part of the Escadinhas de São Cristóvão mural in the Moravia neighborhood of Lisbon. (April 17, 2022)

Views from my hotel room of the Rua Augusta Street in the Baixa or Downtown Pomboline area in Lisbon. (April 16, 2022)

And on the opposite end of Rua Augusta in the Baixa or Downtown Pombaline area in Lisbon is a view of the Lisbon Arco Triunfal da Rua Augusta. (April 16, 2022)

The Rua Augusta Arch on the Rua Augusta street entering the Praça do Comércio in Lisbon. The
stone, triumphal arch was built to commemorate the city’s reconstruction after the 1755 earthquake. (April 17, 2022)

The Arco Triunfal da Rua Augusta from the Praça do Comércio or Commerce Square in the Baixa or Downtown Pombaline area of Lisbon. The southern end of the plaza is open and looks out onto the Tagus River. (April 16, 2022)

The Arco Triunfal da Rua Augusta from the Praça do Comércio or Commerce Square in the Baixa or Downtown Pombaline area of Lisbon. (April 17, 2022)

The Arco Triunfal da Rua Augusta from the Praça do Comércio or Commerce Square in Lisbon. On this side of the arch are the statues of Glory, Ingenuity and Valor (by the French sculptor Calmels) and those of Viriatus, Nuno Álvares Pereira, Vasco da Gama and, of course, the Marquis of Pombal.(April 16, 2022)

At the top of the Arco Triunfal da Rua Augusta from the Praça do Comércio or Commerce Square in Lisbon is Glory crowning Virtue (right) and Honor (left). (April 17, 2022)

The 12th Century Coat of Arms on the the Arco Triunfal da Rua Augusta from the Praça do Comércio or Commerce Square in Lisbon. (April 17, 2022)

Vasco de Gama, a Portuguese explorer and the first European to reach India by sea, is one of the statues gracing the Arco Triunfal da Rua Augusta from the Praça do Comércio or Commerce Square in Lisbon. (April 17, 2022)

And, the man of the hour himself, with his finger pointing down letting everyone know that he is the one who restored Lisbon from the ground up, known as the Marquis of Pombal, Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, who led Portugal’s recovery from the 1755 Lisbon earthquake and modernized the kingdom’s administrative, economic, and ecclesiastical institutions. The Marquis of Pombal is one of the statues featured on the Arco Triunfal da Rua Augusta from the Praça do Comércio or Commerce Square. (April 17, 2022)

The grand statue of the Praça do Comércio with the Arco Triunfal da Rua Augusta is of King Joseph I (José I) on his horse. (April 16, 2022)

A close-up of the King José I statue on his horse symbolically crushing snakes is the grand statue in the center of Praça do Comércio in Lisbon. (April 16, 2022)

The Santa Justa Lift or elevator as seen from Rua de Santa Justa in the Baixa or Downtown Pombaline area of Lisbon. The lift was built to connect the lower streets of the Baixa with the higher Largo do Carmo. The iron Neo-Gothic style lift was completed in 1902 by Raoul Mesnier du Ponsard, a student of Gustav Eiffel, the architect behind the Eiffel Tower in Paris. (April 16, 2022)

A view from the observation deck of the Santa Justa Lift of Santa Justa Street, the walls of Saint George and the Baixa or Downtown Pombaline grid in Lisbon. The Marquis of Pombal imposed strict conditions on rebuilding the city, and the current grid pattern of the Baixa or Downtown Pombaline strongly differs from the organic streetplan that characterised the area before the earthquake. (April 16, 2022)

More views from the observation deck of the Santa Justa Lift of the Downtown Pombaline showing the Praça Dom Pedro IV or Plaza of Dom Pedro IV. Once known as the place for executions, bullfighting and demonstrations. (April 16, 2022)

A closer view of the Praça Dom Pedro IV from the Santa Justa Lift observation deck of the Praça or Plaza which was once used as a place for executions, bullfighting and demonstrations. (April 16, 2022)

This is the Igreja de São Domingos or Church of Saint Dominic in the Baixa or Downtown Pombaline area of Lisbon. I was hoping to attend an Easter Sunday mass and this church was recommended but at the time I arrived, there was no mass. (April 17, 2022)

Inside the Igreja de São Domingos or Church of Saint Dominic in Downtown Pombaline was dedicated in 1241. The church suffered through the earthquake of 1531 and again the big earthquake of 1755 only to again be devastated by a fire in 1959. Much of the cosmetic damage caused by the fire is still evident today. (April 17, 2022)

Inside the Igreja de São Domingos or Church of Saint Dominic in the Downtown Pombaline area of Lisbon. (April 17, 2022)

The altar inside the the Igreja de São Domingos or Church of Saint Dominic in the Baixa or Downtown Pombaline area of Lisbon. (April 17, 2022)

A close-up of the altar inside the Igreja de São Domingos or Church of Saint Dominic in the Baixa or Downtown Pombaline area of Lisbon. (April 17, 2022)

Looking back from the altar to the entrance the Igreja de São Domingos or Church of Saint Dominic in the Baixa or Downtown Pombaline area of Lisbon. (April 17, 2022)

At one time in Portugal’s history, the 15th to 16th-centuries to be exact, Portuguese explorers set sail to discover sea routes to East Africa, Brazil and India and more.

I spent my last day in Lisbon deep in Portugal’s seafaring past in the district of Belém. Historically, Belém was the location of Lisbon’s shipyards and docks, and it was from here these explorers launched their journeys. Later, these trading routes brought incredible wealth into Portugal.

On a rather windy, cool yet sunny day, a fabulous walking tour re-introduced me to the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos (Monastery of Jerónimos), Torre de Belém (Tower of Belém) and the Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries) and a couple of other gems.

Belém, the Birthplace of the Age of Discoveries, when Portuguese seafarers and explorers were some of the first westerners to sail the globe.

Me standing at the exterior of the Jerónimos Monastery in Belem, one of the most prominent examples of the Portuguese Late Gothic Manueline style of architecture in Lisbon. This ornate side entrance to the monastery, which is closed, was designed by Juan de Castilho. (April 19, 2022)

The Jerónimos Monastery is one of the most prominent examples of the Portuguese Late Gothic Manueline style of architecture in Lisbon.
King Manuel I had this large monastery built in the mid-15th century by invocation of St. Mary of Belém, which is the Portuguese name for Bethlehem. The line of people, with a ticket, to get into the cloisters and a smaller second line was to get into the church which is free. The Jerónimos Monastery is a National Monument and was classified a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. Manueline architecture, named after King Manuel I, is a richly ornate Portuguese architectural style originating during the Portuguese Renaissance and Age of Discoveries.
The complex sculptural themes, carved in limestone, incorporate maritime elements and objects discovered during naval expeditions, carved in limestone. (April 19, 2022)

The Jerónimos Monastery in Belém is one of the most prominent examples of the Portuguese Late Gothic Manueline style of architecture in the Lisbon area. The former monastery replaced the small church dedicated to Santa Maria de Belém and where the monks of the military-religious Order of Christ (perhaps re-named from the Knights Templar) provided assistance to seafarers in transit. (April 19, 2022)

The exterior of the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém was designed in a manner that later became known as Manueline: a richly ornate architectural style with complex sculptural themes. (April 19, 2022)

The exterior carvings above the door of the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém was begun in 1502 by King Manuel I on the site of the Church of Santa Maria of Belém founded by Prince Henry the Navigator. That’s her in the middle of the glass pane. (April 19, 2022)

The decorative Cupola of the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a district or neighborhood in Lisbon. (April 19, 2022)

The interior of the Igreja de Santa Maria de Belém or the Church of Santa Maria of Belém inside the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a district or neighborhood of Lisbon. Construction of the monastery and church began in 1501 and was completed 100 years later. (April 19, 2022)

The Church of Santa Maria of Belém altar inside the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a district or neighborhood of Lisbon. (April 19, 2022)

A close-up of the Church of Santa Maria of Belém altar inside the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a Lisbon district or neighborhood. (April 19, 2022)

Royal tombs or sarcophagi being held up by two elephants close to the altar of the Church of Santa Maria of Belém inside the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a Lisbon district or neighborhood. These tombs on the right side, close to the church altar, belong to King João III and his wife Queen Catherine of Austria. (April 19, 2022)

A side interior view of the Church of Santa Maria of Belém inside the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a Lisbon district or neighborhood. (April 19, 2022)

A royal tomb or sarcophagi being held up by two elephants close to the altar of the Church of Santa Maria of Belém inside the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a Lisbon district or neighborhood. (April 19, 2022)

An interior view of the thick columns and ceiling of the Church of Santa Maria of Belém inside the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a Lisbon district or neighborhood. (April 19, 2022)

The beautiful Madonna and Child stained glass window inside the Church of Santa Maria of Belém inside the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a Lisbon district or neighborhood. (April 19, 2022)

Another interior towards the altar of the Church of Santa Maria of Belém inside the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a Lisbon district or neighborhood. (April 19, 2022)

The tomb of Portuguese explorer and the first European to reach India by sea, Vasco da Gama 1469-1524 lays at the interior entrance of the Church of Santa Maria of Belém inside the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a Lisbon district or neighborhood. (April 19, 2022)

The tomb of Portuguese explorer and the first European to reach India by sea, Vasco da Gama 1469-1524 at the interior entrance of the Church of Santa Maria of Belém inside the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a Lisbon district or neighborhood. (April 19, 2022)

A close-up of the tomb of Portuguese explorer and the first European to reach India by sea, Vasco da Gama 1469-1524 at the interior entrance of the Church of Santa Maria of Belém inside the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a Lisbon district or neighborhood. The Manueline-style tomb was made in 1894, and the surface is adorned with ropes, plant elements and various heraldic features. (April 19, 2022)

The Manueline ornamented two-story cloisters of the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a Lisbon district or neighborhood. (April 19, 2022)

The decorated arches of the two-story cloisters of the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a Lisbon district or neighborhood. (April 19, 2022)

A carved cloister pillar of the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a Lisbon district or neighborhood. (April 19, 2022)

The Refectory inside the cloister of the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a Lisbon district or neighborhood was built by master-builder Leonardo Vaz and his craftsmen (1517 – 1518). The fan-vaulted ceiling is a typical example of the Manueline style and under the thick stone ropes the walls are panelled in tiles (1780 – 1785). (April 19, 2022)

Painted, story tiles from the late 1700s along the walls of the Refectory inside the cloister of the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, a Lisbon district or neighborhood. (April 19, 2022)

Me at the enormous and frankly quite stunning Monument of the Discoveries erected in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator. Located on the edge of the Tagus’ northern bank, the monument is shaped like a stylized caravel – the wooden sailing ship of the time that revolutionized maritime exploration with 33 figures from Portuguese history starting at the top with Henry the Navigator. (April 19, 2022)

The Monument of the Discoveries erected in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator. The monument is shaped like a stylized caravel – the wooden sailing ship of the time that revolutionized maritime exploration with 33 figures from Portuguese history starting at the top with Henry the Navigator. (April 19, 2022)

A close-up of the Monument to the Discoveries in Belém and specifically Henrique of Portugal, Duke of Viseu (1394-1460), better known as Prince Henry the Navigator, a central figure in the early days of the Portuguese Empire and in the 15th-century European maritime discoveries and expansion. He is regarded as the main initiator of what would be known as the Age of Discovery. Plus, Henry was the fourth child of the Portuguese King John I. (April 19, 2022)

Another view of the western profile of the Monument to the Discoveries in Belém, designed to commemorate the Age of Discoveries in Portugal. The woman kneeling is the only woman of the 33 figures. She is Philippa of Lancaster, (1360-1415) Queen of Portugal from 1387 until 1415 by marriage to King John I and mother of Prince Henry the Navigator. (April 19, 2022)

A close-up of the kneeling Philippa of Lancaster, (1360-1415) Queen of Portugal from 1387 until 1415 by marriage to King John I, and mother of Prince Henry the Navigator on the western profile of the Monument to the Discoveries in Belém, designed to commemorate the Age of Discoveries in Portugal. The only woman of the 33 figures, the Queen was born into the royal family of England. Her marriage secured the Treaty of Windsor and produced several children who became known as the “Illustrious Generation” in Portugal. (April 19, 2022)

The back of the Monument to the Discoveries in Belém is a sword but the monument itself is shaped like a stylized caravel – the wooden sailing ship of the time that revolutionized maritime exploration. (April 19, 2022)

In addition to the main statue of Henry the Navigator, holding a model of a carrack, on either side of the ramps of the Monument of Discoveries in Belém , are a total of 33 Portuguese greats such as explorers, poets, scientists, missionaries and mathematician figures. (April 19, 2022)

The eastern side of the Monument of the Discoveries in Belém with Henry the Navigator at the head of the monument. (April 19, 2022)

The Belém Tower, completed in 1519 in the Tagus river was originally intended to protect. Lisbon from incoming raids. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is considered a symbol of Europe’s Age of Discoveries. (April 19, 2022)

The Belém Tower was completed in 1519 in the Tagus river is often portrayed as a symbol of Europe’s Age of Discoveries. (April 19, 2022)

The Belém Tower, completed in 1519 in the Tagus river is often portrayed as a symbol of Europe’s Age of Discoveries. (April 19, 2022)

The Belém Tower is often portrayed as a symbol of Europe’s Age of Discoveries. (April 19, 2022)

The Belém Tower, a Manueline military outpost was completed in 1519 in the Tagus river as more of a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. (April 19, 2022)

Although we hear a lot about the accomplishments of Explorer Vasco de Gama, Afonso de Albuquerque oversaw expeditions that resulted in diplomatic contacts with Thailand, Myanmar, Ethiopia and even Persia. This square, in front of the Belém Palace’s Official Residence of the President of the Republic is named after this Second Governor of Portuguese India. This beautiful monument, inside the Praça Afonso de Albuquerque in Belém was inaugurated in 1902. The monument carries a bronze statue of Afonso de Albuquerque and has reliefs about his life. (April 19, 2022)

Belém Palace, the official residence of the President of Portugal, can be seen from the Praça Afonso de Albuquerque in Belém. (April 19, 2022)

Afonso de Albuquerque was a Portuguese general, admiral, and statesman who served as viceroy of Portuguese India from 1509 to 1515, during which he expanded Portuguese influence across the Indian Ocean and built a reputation as a fierce and skilled military commander. This monument carries a bronze statue of Afonso de Albuquerque which has reliefs about his life. (April 19, 2022)

Winged statues representing the main qualities of Afonso de Albuquerque: Genius, Strength, Courage and Justice are on the pedestal of his statue in the Praça Afonso de Albuquerque in Belém. By the heads of the winged statues are reliefs with ships and the pedestals below their feet are decorated with elephant reliefs. (April 19, 2022)

A bas relief carving of Afonso de Albuquerque on his statue inside the Praça Afonso de Albuquerque in Belém. The three-fold Portuguese grand scheme of combating Islam, spreading Christianity, and securing the trade of spices by establishing a Portuguese Asian empire. (April 19, 2022)

Belém Palace became the official residence of the President of Portugal following the Revolution of 1910. This is the main façade of the palace from the Praça Afonso de Albuquerque across the way. (April 19, 2022)

The people standing outside of this building are in line to purchase the very popular custard tarts from the Pastéis de Belém patisserie near the Jerónimos Monastery. Although they’re called tarts, there’s nothing tart tasting about them. Instead, they are sweet, creamy and delicious. This company began making the custard tarts, with a recipe from the monks at the Jerónimos Monastery since 1837. (April 19, 2022)

This is where I bought my custard tarts from, the Casa Brasileira, right down the street from my hotel, the My Story Hotel Augusta, on Rua Augusta and it was delicious. (April 17, 2022)

A window full of custard tarts at the Casa Brasileira just down the street from my hotel, the My Story Hotel Augusta, on Rua Augusta in Lisbon. (April 17, 2022)

My selection of goodies from the Casa Brasileira on Rua Augusta in Lisbon just down the street from my hotel. The one at the top is the custard tart and the one at the bottom is the coconut tart. And, the winner was the custard tart. The ingredients include a puff pastry filled with a custard made of cream, egg yolks, sugar, flour, and lemon zest with a slightly burned top. (April 19, 2022)

One of my favorite meals with one of my favorite drinks at a restaurant on Rua Augusta around my hotel, My Story Hotel Augusta. This is the linguini with shrimps, olive oil, garlic, parsley and cherry tomatoes. And, for my drink? Sangria Tinto or Sangria with red wine. (April 18, 2022)

Having my first Sangria and loving every minute of it. (April 17, 2022)

Got a surprise What’s App text from Janet to let me know she had arrived in Lisbon for a Rick Steves tour and was wondering if we could get together for dinner. I had already eaten and was packing to leave for Porto the next day, but I could not pass up an opportunity to see Janet who was having dinner on Rua Augusta just a couple of minutes from my hotel. So good to see you Janet. (April 19, 2022)

The Tiled Streets of Lisbon

In Lisbon, you have to look down to see and appreciate the beautifully covered calçada (small square stones) laid in different mosaic patterns of black and white waves, symbols and animals.

Me with the interesting red shield humanlike sculptures at the Praça du Municipio with its mosaic patterns of black and white. (April 18, 2022)

The interesting red shield humanlike sculptures at the Praça du Municipio with its mosaic patterns of black and white. The Praça du Municipio is a small square at the City Hall in the center of Lisbon with an interesting turned column. (April 18, 2022)

More of the Praça du Municipio, a nice small square at the City Hall, with an interesting turned column and the beautiful patterned black and white tuke designs. (April 18, 2022)

A close-up of the black and white street tile in the Praça du Municipio, a small square at Lisbon’s City Hall. (April 18, 2022)

Black and white street tile design along Rua Augusta in Lisbon. (April 18, 2022)

The black and white tile design called Mar Largo (“wide sea”) at the Praça Dom Pedro IV can most definitely get you seasick if you look at it too long and I definitely felt that way while I walked on it. (April 16, 2022)

The patterned black and white tile at the Praça dos Restauradores, a square in the central Baixa region of Lisbon. (April 16, 2022)

Porto

The forecast called for a 100 percent chance of rain and cooler temperatures in Porto. Well, it did rain, sporadically and not heavily. Packing a little suitcase for a two-month trip of traipsing through four countries requires a lot of forethought and even with that forethought things can be a bit of a hit or miss.

I had also scheduled two walking tours but I ended up canceling them because I just wanted to spend my time exploring Porto on my own. And, that’s exactly what I did. It meant I could take my time and linger in the places I wanted to linger in. So, I spent my full day wandering and lingering as I made up my own walking tour in Porto and it turned out to be heavenly. Did I see it all or do it all? Well, no, but I did enjoy myself and frankly, that’s what matters.

And, one of the things I love seeing are the azulejo tiles. I’m not sure why I’m so drawn to them but I love the simplicity of the white tiles with the blue art work that tells a story of that moment in time or that person in time. As an FYI, Azulejo is defined as a glazed, usually blue ceramic, colored tile traditionally used in Spanish and Portuguese buildings. Portugal and Spain. And one of the best places to see these gorgeous blue tiles is the São Bento Station. From there I just walked and enjoyed the beauty of Porto.

From here I move on to Spain for another adventure, but there’s time for that. For now, here’s Porto.