Late Start but We are Finally on Our Way Thru the Drake Passage!

I put my seasickness preventative patch behind my left ear Tuesdsy night while on the ship in preparation for our time at sea and for what was expected to be, choppy waters. But when I woke up Wednesday morning our ship was still docked at the Port of Ushuaia.

Still feeling tired and a little groggy from not much sleep, I ventured to the dining room area on Deck 5 to have a little breakfast and find out why we haven’t left the port. Initially I was told, “I don’t know,” and the all inclusive blame someone else line that “the ship’s captain was waiting on approval of local authorities to provide clearance.” However, the actual truth was that the ship’s doctor was sick. He had an allergic reaction to something that not even an eppie pen could fix so he needed more doctoring than he could give himself. That meant he had to go to the hospital in Ushuaia and the ship’s Captain and crew were on the hunt for a new doctor.

In the meantime, while not sailing, we spent the Wednesday involved in lectures from an introduction to the ship and about Antarctica to fittings for our Parkas, boots and life vests when we’re out on the Zodiacs.

But by 4:00 pm, with our new doctor onboard, we were able to set sail! Here’s to learning and preparing for the Antarctica adventures to come.

Two Days of Motion, Vomiting and the Magic Pink Pill

Here’s to my day along the Drake Passage which connects the southwestern part of the Atlantic Ocean to the southeastern part of the Pacific Ocean and extends into the Southern Ocean.

Arrived at Antarctica’s South Shetland Islands and Completed my first Zodiac ride to Deception Island

I woke up Friday morning to views of the South Shetland Islands in Antarctica and by the afternoon I had taken and completed my first Zodiac ride and landing.

The sun was shining, the calm waves were blue and the volcanic land jetting from the ocean seemed naked without snow or ice.

We didn’t make it ashore to our first designated stop of Half Moon Bay on Half Moon Island because the winds gusts were too strong. We were told this would and could happen because the weather, even though the initial forecast was calm, can change in an instant both prior to arriving and even once we’ve arrived.

So instead of going out on a morning excursion, we all got a COVID rapid test. Everyone, passengers and crew had to be tested. Evidently Argentina law requires we all be tested on the third day. In fact, we could be tested again while on the ship. After being swabbed we all had to return to our cabins and remain there until we were either contacted individually or got the all-clear announcement over the speaker system. Needless to say, Elizabeth and I were negative but one person was not and three people had to be given a PCR test. The one person who tested positive now has to isolate in his/her cabin for the next 7 days which basically means they will miss miss participating in the entire Antartica experience.

Thankfully, neither COVID nor bad weather could interfere with our first landing or expedition to Deception Island, part of the South Shetland Island in Antarctica.

Although we saw photos of how to board the Zodiac from the ship and disembark by the shore or the landing, putting those motions into action was quite another thing. Plus, I am not a swimmer and vast water does tend to make me uncomfortable but I knew all this going in and still wanted to come on this trip. And I’m so glad I did.

Here’s to taking a leap to the other side of the world.

A video of the choppy waters at Half Moon Bay and Island in the Shetland Islands of the Antarctica Peninsula. The scheduled expedition to the harbour was canceled because of the high winds but it was still a beautiful sight from the ship. (Jan. 21, 2022)

It’s Saturday and we are continuing to explore the Antarctica Peninsula, which is considered the northernmost part of mainland Antarctica, by way of D’Hainaut Island on Mikkelsen Harbour and iceberg sightings in the freezing waters of Curtis Bay.

Let’s explore!

The Gentoo Penguins of Danco Island and views along the Errera Channel

As is the case for some of these planned expeditions, things are subject to change in the Antarctica Peninsula. And that was the case for our planned Zodiac cruise at Foyn Harbour for this cloudy, windy Sunday morning. It was canceled but we moved thru the Errera Channel onto Danco Island where we were able to do a landing expedition.

It was an overcast and chilly day but once again, I was comfortably dressed with several layers. A number of these islands and harbours are named after the explorers. Danco Island was named after Belgian geophysicist and magnetician Emile Danco, who died during the Belgian Anarctic Expedition of 1897 to 1899, in 1898.

Enjoy the views along the Errera Channel and our expedition on Danco Island.

A video up close and personal on a Zodiac from Danco Island back to the ship. Danco is a one mile long island in the southern part of the Errera Channel off the Antarctica Peninsula western coast.  (Jan. 23, 2022)

Cuverville Island and Neko Harbour

I didn’t have breakfast this morning but that’s been the case these last few days. I’m not often hungry when I first wake up. Guess that has something to do with the fact that my tummy is usually still full from our dinners the night before. And, all honesty, I feel more comfortable getting into a Zodiac, on bumpy waters, with an empty stomach. And, today was no exception.

Our first expedition of the morning was to Cuverville Island. And, even though I was tired this morning, I woke up excited about going. The truth is, these expeditions are truly made for everyone. If you want to hike, there’s hiking. If you want to stay by the shoreline or walk a short distance to the penguin rookeries and marvel at the penguins, there’s that too. For God’s sake, you’re in Antarctica.

Cuverville Island was discovered by the Belgian Antarctic Expedition (1897-1899) under Adrien de Gerlache, who named it for Jules de Cuverville (1834-1912) a vice admiral of the French Navy.Cuverville Island is said to be home to the larger rookeries or colonies of Gentoo Penguines on the Antarctic Peninsula.

Initially it was a slightly overcast morning but as the skies cleared and the sun came out, the temperatures definitely started to rise to beyond 40 degrees Fahrenheit. And me, with three layers of tops plus a parka, I was getting hot, very hot. So, once I got to the top of the nearest rookery, I removed my parka, heavy gloves and mitten hat so I could give myself a breather. And, wow that felt so good.

Our afternoon expedition, to Neko Island, was called a “continental landing.” As far as I’m concerned landing anywhere and stepping foot, even on the Antarctic Peninsula, is as close as I’m ever going to get to the great South Pole, so I’ll take it. But it was fun to hold up the flag “Antarctica: 7th Continent.” I’ve stepped foot pretty much all of the continents except Australia or Oceania and if things go well, my plan is to visit Australia and New Zealand in 2023.

But, back to Neko Island. I’m not sure if it was the beautifully sunny day or the spectacular views surrounding me or the sites and sounds of the glacier calving, but Neko Island was stunning. This was the warmest and sunniest expedition of the trip.

Since Neko Island is known for its glacier, here’s how a glacier is defined: “Glaciers are considered land ice, and icebergs are chunks of ice that break off of glaciers and fall into the ocean.” For this expedition, I actually found myself just standing in the snow and taking it all in. And, while doing so, I got to see and hear the glacier ‘calving,’ basically the breaking of ice chunks, that sounds like thunder, from the edge of a glacier. Such absolute awesomeness.

Cuverville Island

A video from the Zodiac as we approach the shoreline of Neko Harbour and see a humpback whale diving in the water. (Jan. 24, 2022)

Neko Harbour

A video of the Neko Harbour glacier and Gentoo Penguin rookery or colony along Andvord Bay. (Jan. 24, 2022)

Peterman Island, testing negative for Covid but still having to isolate

Weather-wise, today’s morning expedition to Petermann Island, was entirely different than yesterday’s two beautiful weather-wise outings. For the most part it was overcast and chilly. My layers of clothing and parka most definitely came in handy.

I debated going on the Petermann Island expedition because of the weather but as it turned out, I’m so glad I went because it became my last expedition for this trip even though we still had two more days of expeditions. We all had to take another Covid test today. Fortunately, I tested positive but someone I was close to, tested negative. Thankfully that person had light cold-like symptoms but that meant I had to isolate for five days.

We’re required to be vaccinated to even have taken this cruise but the second a person is found positive, they get slapped with 7 days of isolation (whether they have symptoms or not) and anyone close to them gets slapped with 5 days of isolation. There went the afternoon Zodiac Cruise and any expeditions or activities scheduled for the next two days which basically brought me to the end of the Antarctica expeditions because at the end of the second days we begin the two day voyage thru the Drake Passage on our way back to Ushuaia, Argentina.

And, even though I was restricted to my new cabin, #711, I at least had a balcony so I could continue to enjoy the beautiful Antarctic views.

I didn’t know it at the time but Peterman Island would become my last expedition as I would be isolating in a new cabin for being exposed to someone who tested positive after our group Covid test, even though I tested negative.

Isolating with Magnificent views of the Lemaire Channel

Still isolating but also still enjoying the views of Antarctica from my cabin’s balcony as we continue our glide thru the Lemaire Channel with a Zodiac cruise (that I could not participate in) thru Port Charcot andonto Damoy Point.

I don’t think I would be okay with being isolated if all I had was a window, no matter how big, to look out of. Pulling open the drapes and opening those sliding glass doors to step out on the balconywas a life saver for me. The fact that I could step outside and breathe the fresh cool air and feel the breeze encompass me made the confinement bareable.

A video of my morning view of Port Charcot. The one and a half mile (2.4km) wide bay at the north of Booth Island is a 5-mile (8km) long Y-shaped island forming at the western side of the Lemaire Channel. (Jan. 26, 2022)

A video of us gliding thru the calm and stunning Lemaire Channel in Antarctica (Jan. 26, 2022)

The Beauty of Paradise Harbour and the Melchior Islands

Before we made the 600-mile long trek thru the Drake Passage back to Ushuaia there were two remaining expeditions scheduled…again that I could not participate in but I got to see the views from my balcony.

In addition to the expeditions, I also missed out onthe recaps and briefings from the expedition team. A new ship like this, should be able to broadcast lectures from the main lounge area, where all the lectures, recaps and briefings were held, to the cabins. But they don’t have that ability.

So, even though I’m negative and not sick, I’m penalized not only from being able to participate in the expeditions, but also learning about the expeditions and the areas of Antarctica that we traveled thru.

The ship’s doctor, the new one we had to wait on,comes in daily to check my vitals including my temperature and oxygen levels, which are normal. Add to that, I feel fine. In fact so far anyone who has tested positive has had nothing more than a slight to bad cold. No one has required extreme care or hospitalization.

I will probably have to have another Covid test before I can get off the ship in Ushuaia. I don’t mind taking the actual test. What I mind is the stress associated with waiting on the results and the what ifs. If I do test positive then I will have to stay in Ushuaia for 7 days at my own expense. If I continue to test negative then I should not only be able to get off the ship in Ushuaia, but I should be able to fly, with the group, back to Buenos Aires and then back home to Dallas.

So for now, here’s to the beauty of Paradise Harbour and the Melchior Islands which surrounded me. I might not have been able to go out on these last Antartica expeditions, but this has truly been an unforgetable journey. I sincerely have no regrets and I’m grateful that I got to see as much as I did and really take in the unusual beauty of the ‘White Continent.’

A video of the calm waters and beautiful day along Paradise Harbour with its sea ice and icebergs scattered along the steel-blue sea.  (Jan. 27, 2022)

A full day and night at sea thru the Drake Passage back to Ushuaia

Unfortunately the rough seas, meaning the rocking back and forth, started last night at around 8:00 pm and has continued. Thankfully, I took one of the round pink magic pills from the receptionist.  I’ve come to find out these magic pills are Meclizin, the same ones my doctor prescribed for me for nausea, but I like taking the pink ones. 

I ordered dinner last night but once it arrived in the room, I couldn’t eat it. Basically, I ended up throwing it  in the trash, along with the surprise strawberry looking desert Sing sent me. And, then I got in the bed  and stayed there until around 3:00 in the morning when I got up and took another pill. And, drank more water. Thankfully no vomiting has taken place. And, other than wanting to just stay in the bed, I honestly don’t feel bad. 

I did order breakfast…eggs over medium, sausage, toast with butter and orange juice. I ate a piece of one of the sausages and just couldn’t stomach touching the rest. And, I ate most of one of the eggs and one piece of buttered toast. I am not up for consuming a whole lot of food right now. 

The Drake Passage is nothing to mess with if you are prone to seasickness like I am.  And, I had no clue that I would be seasick until this trip. 

But none of the swerving stopped the Covid testing process. It was test day for everyone on the ship. So along with the doctor coming to my cabin to check on my vitals, he also administered another Covid test. And, thankfully, once again, it was negative. 

I’m grateful it was negative but that only meant that I missed the last two expedition days for nothing. And, being negative now means that hopefully come Sunday morning I can get off the ship with everyone else, enjoy our time checking out Ushuaia, take the plane back to Buenos Aires, enjoy the activities scheduled and then take another test so I can get on a plane back home. 

But for today, I kept the curtains closed and rested thru the motion of the ocean. 

A video of the solemness, yet beauty of the Drake Passage as we make our way back to Ushuaia, Argentina, a 2-dday, 600 mile journey. Although I kept the curtains closed for most of the day, I could see a little of the blue skies and the movement was just a little less wavy. (Jan. 28, 2022)

Back in Ushuaia

It took until early afternoon for the swaying to finally stop. No doubt it was because we entered the Beagle Channel, the strait in the Tierra del Fuego Archipelago, on the extreme southern tip of South America between Chile and Argentina.

Even though we were still at sea, lectures in the main lounge were taking place including a disembarkation briefing from our Vantage tour director, Patricio but again, none of that information was made available to those of us quarantining or isolating in our cabins. 

It was also our group’s farewell dinner and even though the meal was delicious, I enjoyed by myself.

We finally docked back at the Port of Ushuaia around 8:00 pm in the evening. And, even though we were spending the night on the ship, I was happy to know that come 9:00 tomorrow morning, I will be free to leave my cabin and disembark the ship.

Ready to disembark…but first, another Covid test

I slept pretty good last night. I think that had something to do with the ship being docked in Ushuaia for the night and my negative Covid test results from Friday which meant my isolation sentence would be up and I didn’t need to stress out about test. Well, I was wrong.  

At 7:00 this morning Patricio called to let me know I had to take another Covid test and that the doctor would again be coming to my cabin to administer it. So, basically, I could not leave my cabin until the test was done and the results were in.

Oddly enough the people who tested positive are given another test shortly after the positive test to make sure the second test is positive, but after that, they are not given another test. Instead, they are required to quarantine for 7 days no matter what. So even if they test negative the next day, they still have to quarantine for the whole 7 days. 

Thankfully, I’m negative again. 

But the test taking is still not over for me. These tests I’ve taken are just to satisfy the Argentine authorities. I still have to take another test tomorrow in Buenos Aires to get back into the U.S.

It was odd to leave the cabin having basically been sequestered there for five days with people contact just at my cabin door, meals by myself and no one to really talk with, at least face to face, about the experience. Emerging from the cabin, with my suitcase, backpack and parka in hand, felt strange. I had been missing from the group and several people did take notice and asked how I was doing but the people contact honestly felt a little strange and uncomfortable. 

When Patricio called with the negative results of my Covid test he told me there was still time for me to go and enjoy breakfast. Easier said than done. I didn’t expect to take another test this morning. I understand that Patricio and Vantage were just following the dictates of the Argentinian authorities but I felt like I was constantly being punished for testing negative. 

Walking out the door, dressed and ready to go with my bags in hand, while my cabin door closed behind me, was a strange and uncomfortable feeling. I was ready to move beyond the confines of my cabin but the notion of being back in a group setting, after being required to stay away, actually made me wonder if I was even emotionally ready to be with people again. Thankfully, that feeling did not last long. 

Leaving the ship and getting on the bus Vantage dropped us off in Ushuaia on Sunday with most places closed and basically told us to keep ourselves occupied for four hours from 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. when we would get back on the bus for the 10 minute drive to the airport for the 4:15 p.m. flight to Buenos Aires. Basically this was all about getting off the ship early and quickly so the crew could prepare for the next set of passengers. 

Walking in the coolness and breeziness of Ushuaia was a good segway to life beyond the cabin. It gave me an opportunity to re-acclimate before getting on an airplane full of people. This has been an amazing experience and although I love spending weeks traveling, I’m so ready to go home after these 18 days away.