A Catholic altar inside the stunning Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba with its forest of horseshoe-shaped red and white arches above columns used from Roman and Visigoth temples to create the Great Mosque at the undertaking of Abd Ar-Rahman 1 in 785 when Córdoba was the capital of the Muslim-controlled region of Al-Andalus. (Sept. 10, 2021)
The table was set for one. Me. I had a reservation and they were ready for me at Bodegas Campos in Córdoba. I had read about this place, don’t remember where and decided that today would be a good day to book a reservation for a good meal. I’ve been up since 5:30 this morning, all a part of getting to Córdoba from Mérida.
I booked the 7:50 am train from Mérida to Puertollano. That actually turned out to be a quick 3-hour train ride and the only way to get to Córdoba on the train. But once I got to the Puertollano station, I had to wait 45 minutes for my next train…a straight 45 minute ride to Córdoba. My previous train was practically empty but not this one. Not sure if my seat was taken or not because I stood by the exit door with the luggage piled up and watched the beautiful olive trees covering the Spanish land as the train sped by. Oh and since I was standing by the entrance to the all gender toilet, I got to again speak my broken Spanish to people. I always pick up a word or two to add to my limited vocabulary of both speech and understanding.
Do I miss speaking my own language and being understood? Kinda. But I actually wanted and continue to want this immersion into the language. I just wish I were so much better equipped!
Anyway, I digress.
I made this reservation because I knew I would need to eat and didn’t want to battle with finding a place to do so. A straight seven minute walk from my hotel and I was here. The first reservation of the evening, 8:30 (or 20:30). Myself and one other couple were in this restaurant with tables all set for their guests. But the Spanish, as I’ve come to know and love, eat late. Try 9:30 or 10:00 or even later at night.
Table set for one.
I ordered a glass of red wine, vino tinto. And tried to understand the English language menu but something was definitely lost in translation. I would love to help these restaurants translate their menus into an English that is widely understood.
Oh, again, I digress. I order the “Neck Fried Cod, Vegetable Ratatouille and Gratin Pil Pil.” Thankfully it really wasn’t the fish neck but more like a lightly crumbed and fried cod fish paddy with deliciously sautéed vegetables. And, as for the Gratin Pil Pil, I was told it was Mayonnaise and well, I chose to skip that.
I ate it all. It was just the right amount of food to both look at and eat. I’ve reached this place where seeing a plate toppling over with food just makes me want to gag. Yes, I know people in various parts of the world are starving and if I could I would gladly share that toppling over of food with them. But instead, I’m faced with eating it myself and I just can’t.
Again I digress. Because it was just enough to gently fill my tummy, I was definitely in the mood for something sweet. I asked for something chocolate and the server never hesitated. I am not a foodie. Do I enjoy a good meal? Of course. But I don’t seek out food in the way a person who understands the intricacies of taste and smell would. When I’m hungry, I just want to eat something good. The fish and the desert were plenty.
When you travel solo, more than likely you eat solo. But oddly enough, it was nice to have a place, just for me all set up and ready to go once I arrived. The wait staff was very attentive and I felt well taken care of. I really appreciated that.
With a full belly from a good meal, I walked back to my hotel, but this time, I did something I hadn’t done before in previous visits to Córdoba, I walked around the golden-lit Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba. An amazing way to top of a full day and a wonderful evening. Córdoba truly has my heart.
And, just one last thing, well two last things.
I travel now because at 65, I’m not getting any younger and time will not wait for a better day or time. I am older and wiser and so less intimidated by my own ignorance and brilliance. I go where my heart takes me because it is packed with years of knowing me.
Okay, now I’m close to being done.
Learn about Spain. Or just dare yourself to try something you’ve never done before. I’m cheating a bit because I’ve been to Spain before, but I’ve never traveled thru this country solo, during a pandemic, for a month. If there’s something you’re passionate about, go for it.
I am not a novice to Córdoba and its charms. It doesn’t feel right to come all the way to Spain and not walk the cobblestone streets of this once Moorish dominated city that displays its history and culture so magnificently. Then add to that the roots of the Romans, Visigoths, Jews and of course the Catholics who took Spain from the Moors completely in 1492.
A tour in English that I had scheduled weeks before coming here had to be changed to Spanish, at least that’s what I was told after arriving in Córdoba. Thankfully, that did not happen. And, the guide, Azahara, who took a small group of us English speakers through the highlights and ultimately through the most unique Mosque-Cathedral in the world…that’s no embellishment…taught me things, especially about the Cathedral, I did not know and was the best walking tour I’ve taken of Córdoba.
Join me as I explore several sites of Córdoba’s Historic Center declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Today was all about the ruins of Madinat al-Zahra, the fortified palace-city on the western outskirts of Córdoba. The construction was begun in 940 by Abd-ar-Rahman III (912–961), a member of the Umayyad dynasty and the first caliph of Al-Andalus. It served as the capital of the Caliphate of Córdoba and its center of government but it only lasted for around 75 years.Between 1010 and 1013 this capital was sacked during a civil war and thereafter abandoned, with many of its materials re-used elsewhere.
After the Christian conquest of Córdoba in 1236, Madinat al-Zahra turned for centuries into a constant building materials quarry for the civil and religious buildings of Córdoba.
The ruins of the city were finally excavated starting in 1911 and remains a major archaeological site today.
I had scheduled a tour of Madinat al-Zahra which required me to get to a bus station location just outside the Jewish quarter in Córdoba. The time for this was 10:30 a.m. with instructions to meet at the bus stop 15 minutes beforehand. No problem. As I left the Jewish gate I could see the yellow bus imprinted described in the directions at the Glorieta Cruz Roja (in front of Eurostars Palace Hotel) but a big semicircular hedge stood between me and the bus.
Which side do I take, go right or left. I chose left and as I was coming around the corner at about 10:16, I could see the bus leaving. Well, that couldn’t be my bus, I thought. My tour doesn’t start til 10:30. Well, I was wrong. And since my usually dependable T-Mobile cellular service was not working, I had no way to contact the tour company. I was rather upset because had they said the bus leaves at 10:15, I would have been at the bus stop much earlier.
At first I thought I would just go back to the hotel but as I began to walk back to the Jewish gate, I thought going back to the hotel won’t get me to the Madinat al-Zahra and that’s when I thought to just get a taxi. Luckily, as I was walking back to the bus area, I could see a taxi stand. The taxi cost me 20 euros to get to the gate ofthe Madinat Al-Zahra, but seeing this UNESCO World Heritage site was something I’ve wanted to do the very second I read about it.
Although I was disappointed about missing the bus and getting a walking tour of the site, I’m so glad I went. Much of the area had descent signagein Spanish and English so getting an understanding of the site was helpful. Unfortunately one of the more colorful places, which I very much wanted to see, the hall of Abd al-Rahman III, was closed to the public due to current conservation work.
Here’s a little of what I saw at Madinat Al-Zahra.
Next stop on my UNESCO travels through Spain is Cuenca.
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