My Solo Month in Spain: Cáceres

If all you want to do is spend a few hours climbing the intricate maze of cobblestoned streets through the rock-hewn medieval churches, convents and palaces of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed old town of Cáceres you can, but if you really want to experience what its like to be enveloped in a medieval time traveler’s dream, stick around for a couple of days.

There’s enough to see on the surface, but like any ancient city, when you dig a little deeper, subtle but glorious treasures can be found. There are no big cathedrals, but medieval-ness abounds within the remnants of a 16th century defensive wall surrounding the old town.

Cáceres, with its blend of Roman, Moorish, Christian and Jewish architecture and culture, originated as the Roman town of Norba Caesarina around 25 BC, although there were human settlements here even before that time. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the city was occupied by the Visigoths but came into a decline until the town came under Moorish control in the 9th century, and was known as Alkazares.

During this time, the Moors rebuilt the city, including a wall, palaces, and various towers, including the Torre de Bujaco. The town spent the next few centuries mostly under Moorish rule, although power alternated several times between the Moors and Christians until reconquered for the Christians by Alfonso IX of Leon in 1229.

For now, let’s take a look at the Plaza Mayor, where I stayed during my three nights in Cáceres, just outside the defensive walls with a walk along the wall and the Church of the Santa Maria Co-Cathedral or Cáceres Cathedral with a climb up its bell tower.

But for now, let’s take a step back where we pace ourselves and enjoy walking, looking and taking in the feel of a medieval wonderland called Cáceres.

Me on the Torre de Bujaco: Great views and a chance to walk a bit on the walls. The old town’s history of battles between Moors and Christians are reflected in its architecture, which is a blend of Roman, Islamic, Northern Gothic, Spanish and Jewish influences. Of the 30 or so towers from the Muslim period, the Torre del Bujaco is the most famous. (Sept. 5, 2021)

The view from my apartment window of the Plaza Mayor, or main square hub of the city, during my stay in Cáceres. From the Plaza Mayor, the historic old town and UNESCO World Heritage site is just a few steps away through the Arco de la Estrella, or Star Gate, next to the Bujaco Tower (square tower to the left). The Plaza Mayor is just outside the old town defensive walls. (Sept. 5, 2021)

The flanking Bujaco Tower built by the Almohads in the 12th century atop Roman ruins. It has a square plan but Renaissance style was added to the tower in the 18th century. It is called Bujaco as a butchered form of the name of the Caliph, Abu-Ya’qub, whose troops conquered the city in 1173, after six months of siege. (Sept. 3, 2021)

As you head up the steps to the old town of Cáceres, also known as the Ciudad Monumental or Monumental City, from the Plaza Mayor, the entrance to climb the Bujaco Tower is to the left.(Sept. 5, 2021)

More of the Bujaco Tower from the steps leading to the entrance of the tower or through the Arco de la Estrella into the old town Cáceres and its wonderful maze of cobblestone streets and Medieval churches, palaces and convents. (Sept. 5, 2021)

Guarding the entrance to old town Cáceres, from the Plaza Mayor, is the 18th-century Arco de la Estrella. This unusual skew archway leads into the intricate maze of streets of the old town Cáceres and is part of an architectural ensemble formed by the medieval walls. Made in the Baroque style, it was built by Manuel de Larra Churriguera in the 18th century on a 15th century construction. (Sept. 5, 2021)

The Arco de la Estrella entrance into the old town Cáceres, its wonderful maze of cobblestone streets, medieval churches, palaces and convents. It is a low and wide-angled arch, made this way so that the carriages could easily pass through to the old town. The archway was drilled into the wall in order to preserve its battlements.The coat of arms of Cáceres that Isabella II bestowed on the city can be seen in the middle of the arch. On the back or other side of the archway is a shrine niche holding the image of the Virgen de la Estrella.(Sept. 5, 2021)

Me under the The Estrela Arch (Arco de Estreda) leading into the old town of Cáceres, considered within the defensive wall. It is considered the most important gate of the old town since it was the place chosen by the Catholic Monarchs in the 1470s to swear-in this community, called Fuero, granting them certain rights and privileges. (Sept. 4, 2021)

A view of the Arco de la Estrella from inside the old town of Cáceres and looking into the Plaza Mayor. The archway features a temple with a statue of the Virgin de la Estrella, Virgin of the Star, which gives the archway its name. (Sept. 4, 2021)

A close-up of the temple with the statue of the Virgin de la Estrella or Virgin of the Star, at the Arco de la Estrella along the defensive wall of Cáceres. Travellers would confide in this icon when they left the city, and they thanked her for their safe return. (Sept. 4, 2021)

To begin walking the wall starts with entering the remains of the relatively square Moorish Bujaco Tower. After the reconquest of Cáceres in 1170 by Ferdinand II of León, a relation of his set up the Cáceres Congregation in the city, which was later to become the Order of the Knights of Santiago. The name of the tower comes from that of Caliph Abú-Ya’qub, whose troops took the city in 1173. (Sept. 5, 2021)

Inside, the Bujaco Tower houses a center of interpretation, “Tres momentos en la historia de Cáceres” (Three moments in the history of Cáceres), in which, through explanatory panels (in Spanish), photographs and art work, shows the town’s historical development from its Roman foundation to the Middle Ages. (Sept. 5, 2021)

Views of the wall (left), Plaza Mayor (right with the Cáceres Town Hall and clock) from atop the Bujaco Tower. (Sept. 5, 2021)

More views of the Plaza Mayor and the Cáceres Town Hall from atop the Bujaco Tower. (Sept. 5, 2021)

Views of old town Cáceres, through the battlements inside the defensive walls, from atop the Bujaco Tower. (Sept. 5, 2021)

Views of the Plaza Mayor and the Bujaco Tower from walking along the defensive walls of old town Cáceres. (Sept. 5, 2021)

Me on the defensive wall of Cáceres. (Sept. 5, 2021)

Walking towards the Arco de la Estrella along the defensive wall of Cáceres. It is a temple with a statue of the Virgin of the Star, which gives the arch its name. Travellers would confide in this icon when they left the city, and they thanked her for their safe return. (Sept. 5, 2021)

A view of the Bujaco Tower and the defensive walls of old town Cáceres. (Sept. 5, 2021)

A view of the Arco de la Estrella along the defensive wall of Cáceres. (Sept. 5, 2021)

The Arco de la Estrella, or Arch of the Star, is the main gate to the Historic Center or old town of Cáceres. It joins the Main Plaza with the Plaza de Santa María, which both have been epicentres of the old and new towns for centuries. And, in the old town, there are no souvenir shops or restaurants with tourist menus, all that is outside the walls around the Plaza Mayor. (Sept. 4, 2021)

The Palacio Episcopal or Bishop’s Palace (left and the Hernando de Ovando Palace in old town Cáceres’ Plaza de Santa Maria. Austere building, with a defensive nature, typifies the medieval old town’s architecture. (Sept. 5, 2021)

The decoratively carved exterior doorway of the Hernando de Ovando Palace in the Plaza Santa Maria in old town Caceres. It was built around the beginning of the 16th century. (Sept. 5, 2021)

Standing majestically in the heart of the old town of Cáceres is the Church of the Santa Maria Co-Cathedral in Cáceres or the Cáceres Cathedral at the Plaza de Santa Maria. Since 1957 the Cáceres Cathedral has held the honor of being a co-cathedral (meaning it shares the function of being a bishop’s seat with another cathedral). The origin of this church dates back to the 13th century as a Romanesque temple, but its destruction led to the creation of a new late-Gothic church between the 15th and 16th centuries. (Sept. 5, 2021)

The bronze sculpture of San Pedro De Alcántara, looking out towards the Plaza of Santa Maria, is located on the corner of the Cáceres Cathedral and next to the tower. A Spanish Franciscan friar who was canonized in 1669, San Pedro or St. Peter was a man of remarkable austerity and poverty who travelled throughout Spain preaching the Gospel to the poor. It is also said that St. Peter slept very little and did so sitting up. And, because he rarely slept, he was the patron saint of night watchmen. The golden toes are from believers who kiss the saint’s feet out of respect. The sculpture of St. Peter is actually a self-portrait of the sculptor, Enrique Pérez Comendador, made in 1954. (Sept. 5, 2021)

Inside the Concatedral de Santa María de Cáceres which dates back to the 13th century. The cedar and oak 16th-century retablo or altarpiece is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin. (Sept. 5, 2021)

The 16th century altarpiece of cedar and pine inside the Concatedral de Santa María de Cáceres is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin. (Sept. 5, 2021)

A close-up of the 16th century altarpiece made of cedar and pine and dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin inside the Concatedral de Santa María de Cáceres or Cáceres Cathedral. (Sept. 5, 2021)

A close-up of the choir portion of the altarpiece made by Pedro de Marquina in the middle of the 16th century inside the Con Cathedral de Cáceres or Cáceres Cathedral. (Sept. 5, 2021)

The coats of arms of Cáceres’ most noble and illustrious families cover the ground on the inside of the Concatedral de Santa María de Cáceres or Cáceres Cathedral with the Chapel of San Miguel by the Altarpiece and Gospel nave. (Sept. 5, 2021)

The coats of arms of Cáceres’ most noble and illustrious families cover the flagstone ground on the inside of the Concatedral de Santa María de Cáceres or Cáceres Cathedral. (Sept. 5, 2021)

The chapel of the Holy Crucifix of Santa María de Jesús, popularly known as the Black Christ, inside the Con Cathedral de Cáceres or Cáceres Cathedral. The Penitential Brotherhood of the Holy Crucifix of Santa María de Jesús, the Black Christ, was originally founded in 1490 and re-founded in 1986 in Cáceres. The brotherhood takes the Black Christ out in procession during Holy Week, a Christian observance commemorating the Passion of Jesus Christ which takes place between Palm Sunday and Easter. The brotherhood’s procession starts during the night of Wednesday to Holy Thursday and is one of the busiest processions in the city. The anonymous wood carved statue dates from the mid-14th century although it’s not ruled out that it could be older. The Cross of Knots that carries the Crucified Black Christ is the third made for him during his more than 650 years of existence. (Sept. 5, 2021)

A close-up of the Holy Crucifix of Santa María de Jesús, the Black Christ, inside its own chapel at the Concatedral de Santa María de Cáceres or Cáceres Cathedral. The Black Christ, which is more than 650 years old, holds a special place in the hearts of local worshippers. (Sept. 5, 2021)

Yes, I decided to climb to the bell tower of the Concatedral de Santa María de Cáceres. Very simple and straight forward up the 67-step spiral staircase. (Sept. 5, 2021)

The up high view inside the Cáceres Cathedral from a landing point while climbing up to the bell tower. (Sept. 5, 2021)

From the small bell tower area of the Cáceres Cathedral. (Sept. 5, 2021)

After climbing the 67 steps of the Concatedral de Santa María de Cáceres or Cáceres Cathedral, I reached the bell tower, which was small, but expecting to see some great views…which were unfortunately blocked by gates. The tower, with its four bells, was built in two years, between 1554 and 1556. (Sept. 5, 2021)

Although this view of old town Cáceres, from the small bell tower area of the Cáceres Cathedral, is beautiful, I can’t say this bell tower climb was worth the 67 steps. Unfortunately a gate blocked me from getting any closer. (Sept. 5, 2021)

Although power alternated several times between the Moors and Christians, until reconquered more permanently for the Christians by Alfonso IX of Leon in 1229, during this period Cáceres also had an important Jewish quarter.

During the 15th century, when the total population was 2,000, nearly 140 Jewish families lived in Cáceres. The Jewish population was expelled by the Christian Monarchs Queen Isabel and King Ferdinand in 1492, but many remains of the Jewish presence of the period can still be seen today in the Barrio San Antonio.

Let’s continue stepping back in time exploring the medieval wonderland of Cáceres with a walk thru the old Jewish Quarter to the defensive walls located in the eastern part of the town and thought to be the defensive walls and towers from the 12th century Moorish period.

Me at the amazing dark-pink flowered Bougainvillea tree in the Jewish Quarter of old town Cáceres. (Sept. 4, 2021)

The bronze symbol, in the shape of the Iberian Peninsula are found within the pavement of the Caminos de Sefarad the route of the Jewish Quarter in Spain, in this case Cáceres. The symbol belongs to an organisation known as ‘la Red de Juderías de España’ who are dedicated to preserving and promoting the history of Spain’s historical Jewish communities. The Hebrew letters on the symbol spell out the word ‘Sepharad’, which is the name that Spanish Jews gave to the Iberian Peninsula. The Sephardim are the Jewish inhabitants who inhabited the Iberian Peninsula and who were mostly exiled during the expulsion by the Catholic Monarchs in 1492.(Sept. 4, 2021)

The Roman gate within the walls of old town Cáceres, the Puerta del Rio or Christ’s Door, is located within the Jewish Quarter. (Sept. 5, 2021)

The Barrio de San Antonio is a small chapel built exactly on the site of a former synagogue in old town Cáceres. In 1470, under the segregation order, the Jews were forced to give up their temple, and it was transformed into a place of Christian worship. (Sept. 3, 2021)

Remains of the Jewish presence can still be seen in the Barrio San Antonio, still within the old town Cáceres but with its distinctive white-washed houses. (Sept. 9, 2021)

The remaining defensive walls of old town Cáceres located in the eastern part of the town is thought to be a defensive tower from the Moorish period of the 12th century and in the Jewish Quarter area. (Sept. 3, 2021)

The remaining defensive walls of old town Cáceres is located in the eastern part of the town is thought to be a defensive tower from the Moorish period of the 12th century and in the Jewish Quarter area with a garden. (Sept. 5, 2021)

More of the remaining defensive walls of old town Cáceres is located in the eastern part of the town is thought to be a defensive tower from the Moorish period of the 12th century and in the Jewish Quarter area with a garden. (Sept. 5, 2021)

The walls inside Cáceres contains the magical, medieval setting of a town with little to no outward signs of modernity. And, that could be why television shows and films have been shot here.

Cáceres flourished as influential Spanish families and nobles built homes and small palaces from the voyages to the Americas where they made their fortunes with the many coats of arms to show their ownership.

Let’s continue our walk checking out the medieval architecture and the facades featuring the many coats of arms, dubbing Cáceres as a ‘city of a thousand coats of arms’.

Me at the House of the Sun in the old town of Cáceres shows a semi-cylindrical drum with cross-shaped holes and the coat of arms for the Solis on its facade. (Sept. 4, 2021)

The House of the Sun in the old town of Cáceres shows a semi-cylindrical drum with cross-shaped holes and the coat of arms for the Solis on its facade. (Sept. 4, 2021)

Views of old town Cáceres with its rock-hewn architecture, cobblestone streets and coats of arms on the exterior of palace walls. (Sept. 3, 2021)

The exterior view of a home showing its varied architectural styles from its former Mudéjar window to its rectangular Christian window along with the coat of arms shield. (Sept. 3, 2021)

The coat of arms number in the hundreds throughout old town Cáceres. (Sept. 4, 2021)

Going up and down is all apart of walking the winding cobblestone streets of old town Cáceres. (Sept. 3, 2021)

The austere and strong defensive nature is characteristic of the architecture in old town Cáceres. This is the San Mateo Church, located close to the Cáceres Museum, was built on top of the ruins of an ancient Arab mosque that dated back to 1345. The church was rebuilt and completed in the 16th, 18th and 20th centuries. (Sept. 4, 2021)

An elaborately carved doorway in old town Cáceres. (Sept. 4, 2021)

Cobblestone walkways and the stone walls of medieval architecture in old town Cáceres. (Sept. 4, 2021)

Entrance to the Coria Gate in old town Cáceres, one of the four main gates of the city, was built by the Romans in the 1st century AD. (Sept. 5, 2021)

The Coria Gate (to the left) in old town Cáceres was one of the four main gates of the city built by the Romans in the 1st century AD. (Sept. 5, 2021)

I have so enjoyed my stay in historic Cáceres. For me it’s both the look and the feel, of this medieval walled city declared a UNESCO World Heritage site, that has transported me to a medieval time and place while keeping me grounded in the 21st century.

Before closing out my stay in Cáceres, I spent time visiting the Cáceres Museum, the Church of San Francisco Javier and the restored 12th-century Yusuf Al Burch Arabic Museum House. I’d also like to pay homage to where I stayed, the Plaza Mayor 35 Apartamentos, with views onto the Plaza Mayor, for being the perfect location to my incredible stay in Cáceres.

Next stop, the Roman-ruin city of Mérida.