My Solo Month in Spain: Salamanca

Salamanca is known as La Dorada, “The Golden City” for its ornate sandstone architecture that permeates this ancient university town north-west of Madrid. First conquered by the Carthaginians in the 3rd century B.C. , Salamanca then became a Roman settlement before being ruled by the Moors until the 11th century.

But what makes Salamanca a UNESCO World Heritage site, is that it’s home to one of the oldest universities in Europe, its historic Old Town center has important Romanesque, Gothic, Moorish, Renaissance and Baroque monuments and add to that a most impressive plaza.

Having two full days, without any travel between cities, has really allowed me to spend time getting to know a place with even some time to relax.

There are so many different highlights of Salamanca but for now, I’ll start with the Plaza Mayor, the gorgeous 18th century baroque public square; the Universidad de Salamanca or University of Salamanca which existed as far back as the late 12th century and is considered one of Europe’s oldest university’s plus street scenes through the Old Town of Salamanca.

Made it rather comfortably and easily from Avila to Salamanca by train. It took a little more than an hour for me to get to this view from my hotel, the Salamanca Suite Studios, window of Plaza de la Libertad. Just around the corner from the Plaza Mayor, Libertad, until the middle of the 19th century was occupied by the San Elín de los Carmelitas Descalzos convent’s vegetable garden. (Aug. 31, 2021)

View from my hotel window at the Salamanca Suite Studios of the Plaza de la Libertad in Salamanca. The hotel is just around the corner from the Plaza Mayor. And, until the middle of the 19th century, Libertad was occupied by the San Elín de los Carmelitas Descalzos convent’s vegetable garden. (Aug. 31, 2021)

Me under the lights and the clock tower of Salamanca’s gorgeous Plaza Mayor. More about Salamanca and its UNESCO World Heritage sites tomorrow. For tonight, Buenas noches mis amigos. (Good night my friends.) (Aug. 31, 2021)

Night views of Salamanca’s gorgeous Plaza Mayor. (Aug. 31, 2021)

Me and Manuel, my Salamanca guide. The best way to learn about a city is with the help of a local, which is exactly the insight Manual with Lokafy tours provided. We met for an evening tapas crawl and again the next morning for a leisurely walk through some Salamanca highlights that I was able to enjoy more extensively on my own.(Behind us is the gorgeous Old Salamanca Cathedral, which is connected to the new Salamanca Cathedral.) (Sept. 1, 2021)

The front of the Plaza Mayor in Salamanca with its archway entrances features the clock tower and is known as the meeting point for social gatherings. It was built in the Baroque style from 1729 to 1756, however it has undergone a number of renovations throughout the course of its existence. (Sept. 1, 2021)

The Plaza Mayor in Salamanca. (Sept. 2, 2021)

The Plaza Mayor in Salamanca has six entrances leading to different streets from opposite areas of the plaza. This is where establishing a landmark for where you entered will help in finding your way out of the plaza to where you want to go. (Sept. 1, 2021)

An archway entrance to the Plaza Mayor in Salamanca. (Sept. 2, 2021)

The Plaza Mayor in Salamanca features more than 70 medallions with portraits of prominent historical Spaniards on the four sides of the archway columns. (Sept. 1, 2021)

Prominent historical Spanish figures portraits are featured on medallions throughout the Plaza Mayor in Salamanca. (Sept. 1, 2021)

One of the prominent portraits featured on a medallion in Salamanca’s Plaza Mayor is St. Teresa de Jesus, the patron saint of Ávila. (Sept. 2, 2021)

This entryway into the Plaza Mayor is from the Plaza del Corrillo, however there are six street entryways into the plaza. This entry features a quote from Miguel de Cervantes about Salamanca. Cervantes is widely regarded as the greatest writer of the Spanish language. (Sept. 1, 2021)

A close-up of the Miguel de Cervantes quote on a column prior to entering the Plaza Mayor. Cervantes is best known for his novel, Don Quixote de La Mancha. The quote, accompanied by a drawing with the author’s classic stamp, is said to have been written in red, the color of bull’s blood, a color that can be seen of inscriptions on a number of buildings in the Old Town of Salamanca. (Sept. 1, 2021)

Miguel de Cervantes, a Spanish writer widely regarded as the greatest writer in the Spanish language and one of the world’s pre-eminent novelists and best known for his novel Don Quixote de La Mancha, is one of the prominent portraits featured on a medallion in Salamanca’s Plaza Mayor. (Sept. 2, 2021)

The University of Salamanca is one of the most important buildings in Salamanca and the jewel of the Spanish Renaissance art for its plateresque facade. Founded in 1218 by King Alfonso IX, Salamanca University is the oldest institution of higher learning in Spain. Facing the plateresque facade of the University is a statue of Fray Luis de León, a monk educated at the University, was also a mystic and poet who contributed greatly to Spanish Renaissance literature. (Sept. 2, 2021)

The statue of Fray Luis de León facing the Plateresque façade of the Salamanca University. (Sept. 1, 2021)

A close-up of the Plateresque facade of the University of Salamanca. Plateresque was an artistic movement, especially architectural, developed in Spain between the late Gothic and early Renaissance in the late 15th century. The style is characterized by ornate decorative facades covered with floral designs fantastic creatures and all sorts of configurations. This facade has been considered the masterpiece of Spanish Plateresque. (Sept. 2, 2021)

A close-up of a medallion featuring the Catholic Monarchs, King Ferdinand II of Aragon and Queen Isabella I of Castile on the Plateresque facade of the University of Salamanca. The accompanying Greek text states: “The Kings to the University and the University to the Kings.” (Sept. 2, 2021)

Another close-up of the Plateresque facade of the University of Salamanca is this, the largest of three shields representing the kingdoms of the Hispanic Crown with a crown on the shield. (Sept. 2, 2021)

A close-up of the Plateresque facade of the University of Salamanca. (Sept. 2, 2021)

Inside the University of Salamanca are a number of lecture halls along the first level surrounding the cloister including this Paraninfo or Great Hall where significant ceremonial events take place. (Sept. 2, 2021)

And, at the center of the southern corridor inside the University of Salamanca is this chapel dedicated to Saint Jerome. (Sept. 2, 2021)

A close-up of the altarpiece, embellished with pink and white marble inlaid with bronze, inside the chapel of the University of Salamanca. (Sept. 2, 2021)

The Stairs of Knowledge was built in the first quarter of the 16th century leading from the cloister and lecture hall area of the University of Salamanca to the second floor where the Old Library is found. (Sept. 2, 2021)

The Stairs of Knowledge cloister staircase was built in the first quarter of the 16th century. It is composed of three orthogonal flights which ascent in a clockwise direction. (Sept. 2, 2021)

A close-up of the reliefs along the Stairs of Knowledge at the University of Salamanca. (Sept. 2, 2021)

The entrance to the Old Library of the University of Salamanca, which records show dates back to the 15th century. The original library was partially demolished in 1664 and rebuilt in 1749 in its current location. (Sept. 2, 2021)

A peek inside the Old Library of the University of Salamanca. Today, the library possesses 2,805 manuscripts, the oldest dating from the 11th century. (Sept. 2, 2021)

Inside the Old Library of the University of Salamanca. (Sept. 2, 2021)

Street scenes through the Old Town of Salamanca. (Sept. 1, 2021)

Street scenes through the Old Town of Salamanca. (Sept. 2, 2021)

Salamanca, at least to me, is like it’s two adjoining Cathedrals, the New one and the Old one. This University city blends the old with the new in a wonderfully flawless way that allows you to leap into its medieval spell while easing into the thriving benefits of its modernity. I’m biased because I love Spain and I’ve heard the University of Salamanca is a good place to study the Spanish language. So, who knows? But let me not digress…the Cathedrals.

The New one, a mere 500 years old while the Old one dates back about 840 years.

The Old Cathedral no longer had sufficient capacity and was too small for the needs of the city. At the same time, Gothic architecture had burst onto the scene, leaving the antiquated Roman-style structures behind. The Old Cathedral may function more like a museum than a house of worship but its historical lineage cannot be understated. Construction began in 1140, during medieval war times giving it a strong defensive nature, and completed in 1180.

Building began on the New Cathedral of Salamanca in 1513, but it wasn’t consecrated until 1733 which made it one of the most important Cathedrals of Spain. Building over several centuries came with its style changes. And, restoration was necessary after the great Lisbon earthquake in 1755 that even caused damages in Salamanca.

Here’s the Old and New Cathedral to get to know along with another climb to the top of another amazing bell Tower.

Me having made it to the top of another medieval Bell Tower room but this one, known as Ieronimus – Torres de la Catedral or Towers of the Cathedral of Salamanca was filled with some interesting surprises of beautiful sites along the way. Plus, for at least 10 minutes or so, I was on my own with the bells and got to hear the noon bells ring. Scared me at first but it wasn’t as loud as I thought they would be so up close and personal. Walk with me through the Cathedrals, New and Old, and let’s climb up to the bell tower together. (Sept. 2, 2021)

This is the view of the New Cathedral of Salamanca (Catedral Nueva) from the Plaza de Anaya and the New Cathedral adjoins the Old Cathedral of Salamanca (Catedral Vieja) through a chapel of the New Cathedral. Two of the main architects of the New Cathedral were Juan Gil de Hontañón who was involved in the construction starting in of 1512 and then his son, Rodrigo Gil de Hontañón, came along in 1538 after his father died. (Sept. 1, 2021)

The front entrance or main facade of the New Cathedral of Salamanca with its finely ornate plateresque style entryway decorated with human and animal figures, heraldry sculptures and vegetal and geometrical ornamental motives. This cathedral is dedicated to the Virgen de la Asunción. (Sept. 1, 2021)

Interior hall inside the main entrance into the New Cathedral of Salamanca. (Sept. 1, 2021)

The Main Altar of the New Cathedral of Salamanca. (Sept. 1, 2021)

The altarpiece of the Main Alter of the New Cathedral of Salamanca features the statue of the Virgen de la Asunción escorted by angels. She is Salamanca’s patron saint of Salamanca. (Sept. 1, 2021)

Built in the 18th century to replace the original cupola that was damaged in the Lisbon earthquake in 1755, this cupola of the New Cathedral of Salamanca covers the center of the transept. It’s ring contains reliefs of the Virgin Mary and in the center is the figure of a dove representing the Holy Spirit. (Sept. 1, 2021)

As close as I could get, this is the stunning cupola of the New Cathedral of Salamanca. It’s ring contains reliefs of the Virgin Mary and in the center is the figure of a dove representing the Holy Spirit. (Sept. 1, 2021)

The Baroque choir of the New Cathedral of Salamanca. (Sept. 1, 2021)

A look inside the Baroque Choir of the New Cathedral of Salamanca beyond the closed gate features elaborately carved walnut choir stalls with statues of prophets, saints and bishops dating from 1724 and designed by the brothers Joaquín de Churriguera and Alberto de Churriguera. (Sept. 1, 2021)

The entrance from the New Cathedral into the cloister of the Old Cathedral of Salamanca. (Sept. 1, 2021)

The cloister entrance from the New Cathedral of Salamanca into the Old Cathedral. (Sept. 1, 2021)

The Church and Main Altar of the Cathedral of Santa María, known as the Old Cathedral of Salamanca. Construction began in 1140, during medieval war times giving it a strong defensive nature, and completed in 1180. The mid-15th century altarpiece of 53 compartmentalized scenes depicting the life of Jesus and the Virgin Mary. A fresco of the Final Judgement is overhead. (Sept. 1, 2021)

A close-up of the altarpiece of the Old Cathedral of Salamanca’s Main Altar presents a life cycle of the Virgin Mary and Jesus Christ. Some of painted scenes were created by the Italian artist, Dello Delli in 1422. Overhead is a magnificent fresco of the Final Judgement. (Sept. 1, 2021)

From the Church and into the south transept are the tombs and wall paintings of the Old Cathedral of Salamanca. (Sept. 1, 2021)

The tombs and wall paintings of the Old Cathedral of Salamanca. (Sept. 1, 2021)

The enclosed cloister area of the Old Cathedral of Salamanca. (Sept. 1, 2021)

The Capilla de Santa Barbara or Chapel of Santa Bárbara with the tomb of Bishop Lucero inside the cloister of the Old Cathedral of Salamanca. Appointed as bishop of Salamanca in November 1339, he also died in Salamanca in 1362 and is buried in the Chapel of Santa Bárbara which he founded. (Sept. 1, 2021)

The exterior facade connecting the Old Cathedral of Salamanca, to the New Cathedral even though the entrance to the Old Cathedral can only be obtained thru the New Cathedral. The Torre del Gallo or Cock’s Tower to the left belongs to the Old Cathedral while the cupola in the middle belongs to the New Cathedral. (Sept. 1, 2021)

The side facade of the New Cathedral of Salamanca with even more of the ornate plateresque style characterized by ornate decorative floral designs with human and animal figures, heraldry sculptures and vegetal and geometrical ornamental motives. (Sept. 2, 2021)

A close-up of the side facade on the New Cathedral of Salamanca’s ornate plateresque style. (Sept. 2, 2021)

The slightly tipsy Tower of the New Cathedral of Salamanca. The earth quake that hit Lisbon in 1755 created damage through the Iberian Peninsula and ruined the tower, which had already been damaged by a fire in 1705. The medieval towers of the New Cathedral of Salamanca, are known as Ieronimus – Torres de la Catedral or Towers of the Cathedral. Ieronimus is the Latin name for Don Jerónimo de Perigueux (1060? -1120), a famous Spanish bishop of French origin who was appointed to Salamanca in 1102 during the days of the Christian repopulation and helped to ultimately bring about the construction of the Church of Santa María, the Old Cathedral, that has led Salamanca to be a unique city for having two cathedrals. (Sept. 2, 2021)

I wasn’t sure what to expect during this climb up to the Ieronimus – Torres de la Catedral or Towers of the Cathedral bell tower of Salamanca, since this was a self-paced tour with very few people taking the the climb up to the Bell Tower. Although these were the initial stairs, as I progressed there were different kinds of spiral stair cases, all well lit but just a little narrower. What totally kept me going were the varied views with built in stair climbing rest stops along the way. (Sept. 2, 2021)

A surprise I did not see coming, while climbing up to the bell tower, was this church view inside the Old Cathedral of Salamanca. (Sept. 2, 2021)

The next level of easy, straight forward more modern stairs brought me to the Terrace of the Flat-topped Tower with these outside views of the New Cathedral of Salamanca cupola (left) and the scallop-tiled Torre del Gallo or the Rooster’s Tower of the Old Cathedral (right). The Old Cathedral tower is considered famous for its rooster weather-vane, giving it the name “la Torre del Gallo.” (Sept. 2, 2021)

A better view of the New Cathedral of Salamanca cupola (left) and the scallop-tiled Torre del Gallo or Rooster’s Tower of the Old Cathedral (right) famously known for its rooster weather-vane. (Sept. 2, 2021)

Another Great view of the scallop-tiled Torre del Gallo or Rooster’s Tower of the Old Cathedral famously known for its rooster weather-vane. (Sept. 2, 2021)

Getting closer to the bells of the Torres de la Catedrals Salamanca Cathedral tower known as Ieronimus, the Latin name for Don Jerónimo de Perigueux (1060? -1120), a famous Spanish bishop of French origin who was appointed to Salamanca in 1102 during the days of the Christian repopulation and helped to ultimately bring about the construction of the Church of Santa María, the Old Cathedral, that has led Salamanca to be a unique city for having two cathedrals. (Sept. 2, 2021)

The Inner Triforio or Clerestory of the New Cathedral of Salamanca. This upper balustraded, a stoned but narrow passageway, allows for an incredible, slightly intimidating yet tremendous interior views of the vaulted ceilings and archways of this Gothic cathedral. I’m not normally too afraid of heights but the enormity of this experience, left me walking cautiously and holding on even tighter while taking in the profound creation and beauty of it all. (Sept. 2, 2021)

Looking down onto the unbelievable views inside the New Cathedral of Salamanca from the balustrade, a narrow passageway up high. (Sept. 2, 2021)

More views of the vaulted ceiling and archways of the New Cathedral of Salamanca along the balustrade, a narrow stoned passageway up high, while heading to the Bell Tower. (Sept. 2, 2021)

I don’t normally take selfies in churches or cathedrals but this view into the New Cathedral of Salamanca, from up high along the narrow passageway of the balustrade, was just too amazing a place to not get in a selfie. (Sept. 2, 2021)

An incredible view of the center of the New Cathedral of Salamanca with its Choir of walnut stalls flanked by the Renaissance and baroque organs and the Main Alter with the image of the Virgen de la Asunción escorted by angels. (Sept. 2, 2021)

One last look from the balustrade, the narrow passageway from up high, of the New Cathedral of Salamanca’s interior. This view shows the entryway chapel into the Old Cathedral of Salamanca. And, now, more stairs to continue onto the Bell Tower. (Sept. 2, 2021)

The climb to the Bell Tower of the New Cathedral of Salamanca continued but now it was through 40 steps of this narrow spiral stairway from the 16th century with a sculpted banister and notches for better gripping along the stone wall. (Sept. 2, 2021)

Another stunning view and rest stop up to the Bell Tower is this north balcony of Plaza de Anaya where you can see the Plaza and Old Town Salamanca. (Sept. 2, 2021)

More incredible views of Old Town Salamanca from the north balcony on the way to the Bell Tower of the New Cathedral of Salamanca. (Sept. 2, 2021)

Also along the north balcony is this view of the Old Cathedral tower, is the Torre del Gallo or Rooster Tower. More stairs to go to get to the Bell Tower of the New Cathedral of Salamanca. (Sept. 2, 2021)

Until now, I didn’t notice the clock on the Bell Tower of the New Cathedral of Salamanca. And, so I continue. (Sept. 2, 2021)

My next set of spiral towards the Bell Tower takes me to more up close views of the exterior architecture of the New Cathedral of Salamanca. (Sept. 2, 2021)

More views of the Old Cathedral of Salamanca’s Torre del Gallo tower or Rooster Tower and views of the Tormes River on the banks of the city of Salamanca. (Sept. 2, 2021)

More gorgeous exterior views of the New Cathedral of Salamanca as I continue my climb to the Bell Tower. (Sept. 2, 2021)

This next and final level of stairs to the Bell Tower takes me up a single staircase that now requires a traffic light. It is extremely narrow and literally no more than one person at a time can fit so the ascent and descent are managed by a traffic light providing three minutes to get your climb on. Thankfully it only took 22 steps to get to the Clock Tower portion where you could wait and rest or keep going 40 steps to the Bell Tower if you still had time. I waited at the Clock Tower to make sure I got my full three minutes to make the rest of the climb to the Bell Tower. (Sept. 2, 2021)

The Bell Tower room of the New Cathedral of Salamanca has 11 large bells within tall archways and along the walls are preserved invocations and pilgrimages of many from the past who left their sign that they had made it to the top. (Sept. 2, 2021)

A bell in the Bell Tower room of the New Cathedral of Salamanca with the writings of those who made their pilgrimage to the top. (Sept. 2, 2021)

The dome above the Bell Tower room of the New Cathedral of Salamanca can also be reached by stairs for special occasions. (Sept. 2, 2021)

Waiting for my three minutes, or 300 seconds for my green light to start back down the single direction staircase and make my descent out of the Bell Tower of the New Cathedral of Salamanca. This was an extreme joy that requires time and patience and was such an incredible, yet sometimes intimidating thing to do. And, this was the best time to do it since it was self-guided and very few people taking the climb. (Sept. 2, 2021)

Not sure why, but I feel a special connection to Salamanca and have enjoyed getting to know this UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s a very walkable area and the beautiful sandstone architecture means while walking I get to take in the beauty of the area.

This post includes the Casa de las Conchas or the shell-covered Gothic Palace; the

Clerecía Church, now part of the Pontifical University; the ancientWalls and Roman Bridge along with a visit inside the Palacio de Monterrey.

Saying goodbye to Salamanca and moving on to my next UNESCO World Heritage site of Cáceres. Next stop, another UNESCO World Heritage site, Caceres, known for its Roman, Moorish and conquistador architecture and was the first city in Spain to be listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Like Salamanca, Caceres will be new Spanish territory for me and I look forward to getting to know its historical charms.