Lebanon: A Quick Stop in Beirut

Beirut

I woke up in Cairo, Egypt and fell asleep in Beirut, Lebanon…experiencing African and Asia’s Middle East in a 24-hour period.

The cab ride at 6:30 in the morning from the Barcelo Pyramids Cairo Hotel to the Cairo International Airport in Egypt for our Middle East Airlines trip to Beirut, Lebanon. The flight was only hour and left at 9:50am. It took a little more than 35 minutes to get to the airport but it took more than an hour to go through the first baggage check when you enter the building, check the luggage, get the boarding pass, then go through passport control before going through the last security checkpoint to get to your gate. Another country I was happy to visit and just as happy to leave. Goodbye Egypt!
(Oct. 10, 2019)

I’ve never had my passport inspected so diligently than I did coming into Lebanon. What was the passport inspector looking for? Israeli stamps. Lebanon is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea to the west, Israel to the south, and Syria to the east and north. Elizabeth and I were both asked where we plan to go when we leave Beirut, and when we said Tel Aviv, the passport inspector let us know that that was not possible. And, of course, he was correct because there are no direct flights from Beirut to Tel Aviv. So, I quickly mentioned that we were going to Cyprus and he calmed down. Muslim countries don’t like Israel right now because of what is happening to the Palestines so they don’t let anyone into their countries with Israeli stamps. I had the same issue with the Sudan. But Egypt never asked about it.

I’m not sure what I expected from Beirut, the capital and largest city of the Republic of Lebanon, but the city has a definite modern flair to it. That all changes as you move out into the towns and villages. The modern polish fades away and the farmlands, mountains, Syrian refugee camps, civil war remnants and everyday life takes center stage. The country has seen its share of conflicts, with its neighboring borders of Syria and Israel. Just to clarify, yes, we are close to the Syrian border but the Turkish offensive, currently taking place in Syria, is much further away and on the border of those two countries.

Lebanon has an ancient and modern history of occupation from the Romans and the Ottomans. And, today, was all about ancient Lebanon from its Roman ruins to its ancient Islamic city. And, of course views of Beirut and the countryside.

Inside the very impressive shrine area of the Temple of Bacchus at Baalbek also known as Heliopolis, the City of the Sun, about 50 miles northeast of Beirut. Although the temple was built mid-2nd Century AD, the Baalbek temple complex was developed overtime. The complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (Oct. 11, 2019)

The imposing Temple of Bacchus at the Baalbek temple complex outside of Beirut. (Oct. 11, 2019)

The imposing Temple of Bacchus at the Baalbek temple complex. (Oct. 11, 2019)

The imposing Temple of Bacchus at the Baalbek temple complex outside of Beirut, Lebanon. (Oct. 11, 2019)

My selfie by the imposing Temple of Bacchus at the Baalbek temple complex outside of Beirut. (Oct. 11, 2019)

The stairway leading to the interior of the Temple of Bacchus at the Baalbek temple complex outside of Beirut, Lebanon. (Oct. 11, 2019)

The monumental gate entrance to the Temple of Bacchus at the Baalbek temple complex outside of Beirut, Lebanon. (Oct. 11, 2019)

The archway carvings of the monumental gate entrance to the Temple of Bacchus at the Baalbek temple complex outside of Beirut, Lebanon. (Oct. 11, 2019)

A close-up of the archway carvings of the monumental gate entrance to the Temple of Bacchus at the Baalbek temple complex outside of Beirut. (Oct. 11, 2019)

Another look inside the shrine area of the Temple of Bacchus at the Baalbek temple complex just outside of Beirut. (Oct. 11, 2019)

The delicate carvings on the monumental gate entrance to the Temple of Bacchus, part of the Baalbek temple complex, shows grape vines. (Oct. 11, 2019)

Standing by what was a roof sculpture supposedly of Cleopatra stung by a snake, which was how she died. This roof design was part of an awning at the Temple of Bacchus at the Baalbek temple complex outside of Beirut, Lebanon. (Oct. 11, 2019)

A close-up of the roof sculpture that is supposedly of Cleopatra stung by a snake, which was how she died. This roof design was part of an awning at the Temple of Bacchus at the Baalbek temple complex outside of Beirut, Lebanon. (Oct. 11, 2019)

The Great Courtyard at the Baalbek temple complex outside of Beirut, Lebanon. (Oct. 11, 2019)

Close-up details from the engravings on the basin at the Great Courtyard at the Baalbek temple complex outside of Beirut, Lebanon. (Oct. 11, 2019)

Pieces of carved facade at the Baalbek temple complex outside of Beirut, Lebanon. (Oct. 11, 2019)

Elizabeth standing under one of the 38 gargoyles of lions’ heads that drained rainwater at the Baalbek temple complex outside of Beirut. (Oct. 11, 2019)

“A team of archaeologists at a 2,000-year-old limestone quarry in Lebanon’s Bekka Valley excavated around a megalith weighing about 1,000 tons and dubbed Hajjar al-Hibla, or “stone of the pregnant woman.” It was intended for the Temple of Jupiter, which sits on three limestone blocks of similar size at the nearby site of Baalbek. To the team’s shock, they unearthed yet another block, this one weighing an estimated 1,650 tons, making it the largest known megalith. The German Archaeological Institute’s Margarete van Esse says excavation was suspended when the trench became dangerously deep.,” according to an article in Archaeology Magazine. (Oct. 11, 2019)

The 2,000-year-old limestone quarry in Lebanon’s Bekka Valley recently excavated around a megalith weighing about 1,000 tons and dubbed Hajjar al-Hibla. (Oct. 11, 2019)

The farmland of the town of Beqaa just outside of the capital city of Beirut. (Oct. 11, 2019)

The farmland of the town of Beqaa, just outside of Beirut, with the gorgeous mountains and the Syrian refugee camps. (Oct. 11, 2019)

Syrian refugee camps along the road in the town of Beqaa outside of Beirut. Many of the Syrians work as farmers and also get United Nations assistance. (Oct. 11, 2019)

Syrian refugee camps along the road in the town of Beqaa, just outside of Beirut. Many of the Syrians work as farmers but also get U.N. assistance. (Oct. 11, 2019)

Elizabeth opening up our bowl of tabouleh at the Lakkis Grill restaurant in Beqaa, where we stopped for a late lunch at the recommendation of our driver/guide, Imad. Along with the tabouleh we also had safiha and hummus. (Oct. 11, 2019)

Our safiha, is a seasoned meat mixture of lamb and beef that’s baked with dough. I found them to be delicious. (Oct. 11, 2019)

I love hummus and this hummus was absolutely delicious. (Oct. 11, 2019)

Elizabeth and me at the Umayyad Ruins of Anjar was once an important ancient commercial center and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (Oct. 11, 2019)

The Umayyad Ruins of Anjar in the town of Anjar was established during the Umayyad Caliphate period around 650 AD. (Oct. 11, 2019)

The Umayyad Ruins of Anjar in the town of Anjar was established during the Umayyad Caliphate period around 650 AD. The site of this ancient city was only discovered by archaeologists at the end of the 1940s. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (Oct. 11, 2019)

The Umayyad Ruins of Anjar in the town of Anjar was established during the Umayyad Caliphate period around 650 AD. This ancient city was only discovered by archaeologists at the end of the 1940s and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (Oct. 11, 2019)

The Umayyad Ruins of Anjar in the town of Anjar, Lebanon was established during the Umayyad Caliphate period around 650 AD. (Oct. 11, 2019)

Me at the Umayyad Ruins of Anjar in the town of Anjar, Lebanon was established during the Umayyad Caliphate period around 650 AD. (Oct. 11, 2019)

The small palace at the Umayyad Ruins of Anjar in the town of Anjar, Lebanon was established during the Umayyad Caliphate period around 650 AD. (Oct. 11, 2019)

Heading back to downtown Beirut, Lebanon, where we will be staying for the next two nights. (Oct. 11, 2019)

Views of downtown Beirut, Lebanon. (Oct. 11, 2019)

Although today was mainly about the ancient areas around Beirut, Lebanon, we do plan to see more of modern Beirut. A quick view of Martyrs’ Square and a monument built in honor of the martyrs executed here in 1916, at the orders of Ottoman military ruler Jamal Pasha. (Oct. 11, 2019)

A little more of Marty’s Square and Old Beirut located in downtown, Beirut, Lebanon. (Oct. 11, 2019)

I like the Beirut area of Lebanon. And, as selfish as this sounds, I like that even though Arabic is the first language and French is the second language, English is quite prevalent. Although it’s a small country, Lebanon is rather dense, with a population of about 6 million. It’s religious population is about 40% Catholic and 60% Muslim. And, don’t mention Israel because most Lebanese don’t have anything nice to say and definitely don’t mention you’re going to Israel, which we will be doing from here but by way of Cyprus. Just coming into Lebanon required that our passports be thoroughly checked for an Israeli stamp and if one was found, we would have been prevented from entering the country.

Politics, history and religion aside, it was another full day with trips to Jeita Grotto, Harissa and Byblos from Beirut, Lebanon. Yesterday we had a driver to take us around and for today’s day tour we had a driver, a guide and a group of some 20 travelers from various parts of the world.

No time to waste. We leave tomorrow. Here’s more of our travels around Beirut, Lebanon.

Elizabeth and I ready for our cable car ride to the Jeita Grotto, crystallized caves in the Valley of Nahr al-Kalb along with recent former New Yorkers, Nabeela and Peju. (Oct. 12, 2019)

The cable ride to the Jeita, a massive compound of crystallized caves just outside of Beirut in the Valley of Nahr al-Kalb (Dog River). (Oct. 12, 2019)

Getting on our cable car ride to the Jeita Grotto, a massive compound of crystallized caves just outside of Beirut. (Oct. 12, 2019)

Elizabeth and I on our cable car ride to the Jeita Grotto, a massive compound of crystallized caves, just outside of Beirut. (Oct. 12, 2019)

Elizabeth and me having our photo taken at the entrance to the Jeita Grotto where photos are not allowed inside the Grotto. the excuse given is the camera flash. Forgive me but I’ve been inside a number of caves/grottos where photos but without flash are allowed. Not being allowed to take photos inside this gorgeous place was incredibly disappointing. (Oct. 12, 2019)

“The Guardian of Time,” a sculpture by Lebanese artist Tony Farah outside the lower cave at Jeita Grotto just outside of Beirut, Lebanon. (Oct. 12, 2019)

The Virgin Mary Statue in Harissa of the Shrine of Our Lady of Lebanon is considered to be one of the most important shrines in the world honoring Mary, Mother of Jesus. The mountain is called Harissa, after the village at the peak of the mountain, and is just outside of Beirut, Lebanon. (Dec. 12, 2019)

The Shrine of Our Lady of Lebanon in Harissa, just outside of Beirut, Lebanon, draws millions of faithful both Christians and Muslims from all over the world. (Oct. 12, 2019)

Up more than 100 steps to the observation deck of the Shrine of Our Lady of Lebanon in Harissa for these stunning views of the coastal city and bay of Jounieh. (Oct. 12, 2019)

The Virgin Mary of the Shrine of our Lady of Lebanon stretches her hands towards Beirut and throughout Lebanon. (Oct. 12, 2019)

The Téléphérique, a gondola ride from the top of Harissa for the Our Lady of Lebanon shrine down to the city of Jounieh. (Oct. 12, 2019)

Elizabeth and me inside the Téléphérique, a gondola that took us from the top of Harissa, after seeing the Our Lady of Lebanon shrine, down to the city of Jounieh. (Oct. 12, 2019)

The spectacular panoramic views Elizabeth saw riding in our gondola from Harissa down to the city of Jounieh. (Oct. 12, 2019)

The spectacular panoramic views during our gondola ride from Harissa down to the city of Jounieh. (Oct. 12, 2019)

The spectacular panoramic views Elizabeth and I got to see riding in our gondola from Harissa down to the city of Jounieh in Lebanon. (Oct. 12, 2019)

Before entering the ruins of the historic city of Byblos, Lebanon, one must stroll along the old rock inlaid streets of the market, the historic Souk. (Oct. 12, 2019)

The historic Souk leading to the ruins of the city of Byblos, Lebanon. )ct. 12, 2019)

The Gate’s Lady Shrine in the wall of the ancient city of Byblos connects the old market to the entrance of the Byblos Castle. (Oct. 12, 2019)

Byblos, known locally by its Arabic name of Jbeil, is one of the oldest cities continuously inhabited from 6000 BC to the present. Standing on a natural sand-stone cliff, the old town and its harbor were designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here’s the entrance to Byblos Castle which was built by the Crusaders in the 12th century. (Oct. 12, 2019)

The Crusaders Citadel of the Byblos Castle among the ruins of the ancient city of Byblos, known locally by its Arabic name of Jbeil, in Lebanon. The crusaders fortified Byblos and built the citadel after the conquest of Byblos in 1104. (Oct. 12, 2019)

The view and rampart remains from the Crusaders Citadel of the Byblos Castle ruins of the ancient city of Byblos, known locally by its Arabic name of Jbeil, in Lebanon. The crusaders fortified the ancient of Byblos and built the citadel after the conquest of Byblos in 1104. (Oct. 12, 2019)

Call it a late lunch/early dinner but whatever you call it, this meal at Khan Jbeil, a traditional Lebanese restaurant in Byblos, was beyond delicious. That’s Peju (left) and Nabeela (right) also enjoying the feast. (Oct. 12, 2019)

Here’s Elizabeth, sitting next to me at Khan Jbeil, where our day tour group enjoyed a traditional Lebanese meal together in Byblos. Her tummy has been bothering her so she’s going easy just starting with yogurt. (Oct. 12, 2019)

Just when I thought they were done putting food on the table at Khan Jbeil, a traditional Lebanese restaurant in Byblos, came more plates, bowls or skillets. Salad, hummus, mash potatoes and even grape leaves. (Oct. 12, 2019)

Then comes more potatoes, but this time they are fried with some delicious seasonings, beef sausages and tabouleh during our group lunch at Khan Jbeil in Byblos. And, just when I thought I was full, skewers of lamb and chicken were placed on the table. And, yes, Mom, I definitely ate the lamb and loved it. (Oct. 12, 2019)

I mistakenly thought that the bowl of bananas and apples on the table were for desert, I was soon surprised with this delicious rice pudding topped with pistachios. (Oct. 12, 2019)

Thank you Khan Jbeil in Byblos for a delicious Lebanese meal. (Oct. 12, 2019)

Leaving Beirut for Tel Aviv

Our flight out to our next adventure, Tel Aviv, Israel, by way of Larnaca International Airport in Cyprus, didn’t leave until around 6:00 in the evening but we were told that we had to be at the airport at least three hours in advance. We slept in and had a leisurely morning before checking out of our hotel. Our initial plan was to have a taxi take us to the airport around 3:00 in the afternoon or so but that turned into hiring our own personal driver to take us around the city of Beirut for some last minute sites before being dropped off at the Beirut-Rafic Hariri International Airport.

As I mentioned, Israel is a dirty word in these parts of the world. We could not fly directly from Beirut to Tel Aviv on Cypress Airlines. You must stop in Cyprus, get off the plane, get your luggage, re-check-in the luggage and get your new boarding pass for Tel Aviv, all within an hour. Never mind the fact that we booked this flight through Cyprus Airlines, from Beirut to Tel Aviv, and the same airplane we boarded in Beirut to Cyprus was the exact same airplane we had to re-board to get from Cyprus to Tel Aviv. And, because both of our luggage was more than 7 kilograms allowed (around 15 pounds), both Elizabeth and I had to pay an extra $60 to check our luggage in Beirut. We were told this would cover our luggage cost from Beirut through to Tel Aviv, but when we got to Cyprus we were told at the check-in again that we would need to pay another $60 to get our luggage from Cyprus to Tel Aviv. Mind you, my luggage was only four pounds over the maximum weight. But because we were in such a hurry to get to back to our airplane, the woman working at the Cyprus ticket counter waived the fee and guided us through security so we would not miss our flight to Tel Aviv. The adventures of travel!