Botswana, Namibia & Cape Town: Chobe National Park, Okavango Delta, Etosha National Park, the Namib Desert & More
“Some 900 years ago the climate dried up, and dunes cut off Deadvlei from the river. It became too dry in Deadvlei for the trees to even decompose. They simply scorched black in the sun, monuments to their own destruction. The trees, now over 1000 years old, form a barren Forest,” from an informational board at Deadvlei in the Namib desert in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)
Botswana and Namibia: Countries #84 and #85 on my Countdown to 100 U.N. Countries by the time I turn 70 in 2026.
(Editor’s Note: The first few days of traveling in Botswana includes going back and forth between Botswana and Namibia so I’m including both of these countries into this one post even though most of our time was spent in Namibia. And, a bit of Cape Town, South Africa to end my time on the African Continent…for now. )
Botswana
Day 29: We actually began the day with a walk through Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe before crossing the border into Botswana for a 2-night stay at the Chobe Safari Lodges.
We crossed the border into Botswana arriving at the Chobe Safari Lodges for a 2-night’s stay. (Nov. 3, 2024)I like staying at places that provide a nice bar/reception area to hang out in and this one at the Chobe Safari Lodges provided exactly that with views of the Chobe River and the ever important WiFi. (Nov. 3, 2024)Tents up close to the truck and close to the bathrooms at the Chobe Safari Lodges in Botswana. (Nov. 3, 2024)Dinner is served at the Chobe Safari Lodges. First soup and then the main course all prepared by our cook Ibrahim. (Nov. 3, 2024)A quick shower, for an early morning game drive start, in this unisex bathrooms with showers and toilets on both sides at the Chobe Safari Lodges. (Nov. 3, 2024)
Day 30: A day safari at ChobeNational Park and late afternoon Chobe River cruise in Botswana.
A full day of wildlife from the Chobe National Park, Botswana’s first national park, on a morning game drive atop a 4×4 jeep and a late afternoon boat cruise down the Chobe River. The river flows into the Zambezi River which is the waterfall at the Victoria Falls.
As I’ve mentioned before, I’m not a big deal animal lover, but doing these safari drives and seeing these majestic wild animals in the open has been fascinating.
Let’s visit Botswana’s first and third largest national park, the Chobe National Park.
On our 4×4 jeep to explore Chobe National Park from our campsite at the Chobe Safari Lodges in Botswana. From left: Julia, Kate, Johannes, Courtney, Chris, Samantha and me. (Nov. 4, 2024)Entering the Chobe National Park in Botswana on our 4 x 4 jeep. (Nov. 4, 2024)Starting our drive inside the Chobe National Park in Botswana. (Nov. 4, 2024)Each of the parks I’ve visited has been different, including the Chobe National Park in Botswana. (Nov. 4, 2024)The baboons roaming around the Chobe National Park in Botswana. (Nov. 4, 2024)The baboons roaming around the Chobe National Park in Botswana. (Nov. 4, 2024)The elegant Impalas and a Greater Kudu inside the Chobe National Park in Botswana. (Nov. 4, 2024)The Greater Kudu inside the Chobe National Park in Botswana. (Nov. 4, 2024)A horde of people admiring the lions at the Chobe National Park. (Nov. 4, 2024)A horde of people admiring the lions at the Chobe National Park. (Nov. 4, 2024)The Impalas on high alert of the lions roaming the area inside the Chobe National Park. (Nov. 4, 2024)The Impalas on high alert of the lions roaming the area inside the Chobe National Park. (Nov. 4, 2024)The Chobe River and an elephant from inside the Chobe National Park in Botswana. (Nov. 4, 2024)The elephants congregating at the man made watering holes at the Chobe National Park in Botswana. (Nov. 4, 2024)Because it is so dry, with little to no rain, man made watering holes are available at the Chobe National Park for this herd of elephants and the other wild animals. The problem with this watering hole is that it was not producing much water. (Nov. 4, 2024)
The elephants congregating at the man made watering holes at the Chobe National Park in Botswana. (Nov. 4, 2024)A sable antelope, with its long ringed horns that arch backwards, resting by the man made watering hole at Chobe National Park. (Nov. 4, 2024)A sable antelope, with its long ringed horns that arch backwards, resting by the man made watering hole at Chobe National Park. (Nov. 4, 2024)The beautiful and elegant giraffes at the Chobe National Park. (Nov. 4, 2024)The giraffes in Chobe National Park are a subspecies of which is the South African Giraffe. These giraffes are well-suited to the park’s woodlands and savannas. And, they are characterized by their unique, irregular, and jagged spots. (Nov. 4, 2024)The Greater Kudu with its stunning horns at the Chobe National Park. (Nov. 4, 2024)The termite mounds at the Chobe National Park are made from clay brought up from beneath the ground level and mixed with the termite saliva. Also known as “castles” or termitariums, termite mounds are extremely intricate systems of tunnels, nests, chambers, farms and nurseries that extend far below ground. They can take up to five years to build and often last for decades, centuries and in extreme cases, millennia. (Nov. 4, 2024)Took a break after the jeep ride inside the Chobe National Park before boarding a 2-hour boat ride along the Chobe River to see the wildlife. (Nov. 4, 2024)The African Buffalos along the Chobe River. (Nov. 4, 2024)The African Buffalos along the Chobe River. (Nov. 4, 2024)The African Buffalos along the Chobe River. (Nov. 4, 2024)Crusing along the Chobe River in Botswana. (Nov. 4, 2024)Crusing along the Chobe River in Botswana. (Nov. 4, 2024)A bloat or pod of hippos sleeping in the Chobe River. (Nov. 4, 2024)A bloat or pod of hippos getting in a deep sleep in the Chobe River. Hippos have short legs. Their skin is sensitive to the sun so they have to stay in the water. They are vegetarians who come out at night to eat. (Nov. 4, 2024)A bloat or pod of hippos getting in a deep sleep in the Chobe River. The hippos expose the worms in the water so the birds can eat them. (Nov. 4, 2024)On board our boat cruise down the Chobe River with the elephants cooling themselves behind us. (Nov. 4, 2024)Courtney and me on board our boat cruise down the Chobe River with the elephants cooling themselves behind us. (Nov. 4, 2024)The elephants along the Chobe River using the mud and water to keep cool. They spray themselves by snuffing their trunks full of water. (Nov. 4, 2024)The elephants along the Chobe River using the mud and water to keep cool. They spray themselves by snuffing their trunks full of water. (Nov. 4, 2024)The Chobe River in Botswana. (Nov. 4, 2024)Approaching pregnant Nile crocodile resting by a gnarly tree along the Chobe River in Botswana. (Nov. 4, 2024)The gnarly roots of a tree and a Nile crocodile along the Chobe River in Botswana. (Nov. 4, 2024)A pregnant Nile crocodile alongside the banks of the Chobe River in Botswana. The crocodiles are known to have a variety of colors, including olive, gray, green, and straw-yellow. (Nov. 4, 2024)Also along the banks of the Chobe River are these large, long-legged, long-necked Mariboo stalks in Botswana. (Nov. 4, 2024)Also along the banks of the Chobe River are these large, long-legged, long-necked Mariboo stalks. (Nov. 4, 2024)The African Fish Eagle, the national bird of Botswana’s neighbours Zambia and Zimbabwe, is easily the most sought after bird sighting for safari-goers at the Chobe National Park. (Nov. 4, 2024)
Namibia
Day 31: Crossing the border into Namibia for a night at the Okavango River.
It’s an odd but full travel day because we left the Chobe National Park in Botswana to make our way to the Rainbow River Lodge campsite near Bagani in Namibia, to only spend one night here before crossing the border back into Botswana in the morning.
Confused? Understandable. But the Rainbow River Lodge campsite made for a good place to stay that was close to the Botswana border for our next adventure onto the marshlands of the Okavango Delta.
To a night in Namibia by the Okavango river.
Me by the hollow Baobab tree at the Ngoma Border between Botswana and Namibia is believed to possibly be hundreds of years old. (Nov. 5, 2024)The flowers from the old Baobab tree at the Ngoma Border between Botswana and Namibia. (Nov. 5, 2024)The Ngoma Border, which was not crowded, to enter Namibia from Botswana. (Nov. 5, 2024)Stopped for lunch at the Passione Restaurant in Katima Mulilo, Namibia. (Nov. 5, 2024)I’ve been craving a tuna salad and lo and behold, I was able to order one here at the Passione Restaurant in Katima Mulilo, Namibia. (Nov. 5, 2024)Putting up our tents for the night at the Rainbow River Lodge campsite near Bagani, Namibia, along the Okavango River. (Nov. 5, 2024)The bar and dining area of the Rainbow River Lodge with views of the Okavango River, our campsite for the night. (Nov. 5, 2024)
Botswana
Day 32: A boat across the swamps to Gao Island to explore the Okavango Delta.
We left Botswana yesterday to cross the border into Namibia for the night only to cross the border back into Botswana this morning to head south along the Okavango Panhandle (the narrowest part of the delta) to Seronga.
While my group prepared to spend the night at a bush camp on Goa Island, somewhere in the Okavango Delta with no running water or facilities, I decided to opt out and meet up with them in the morning after a good night’s sleep in a bed.
Here’s to arriving at the Swamp Stop along the Okavango Delta in Botswana while saying good-bye to my Intrepid tour group for the night.
My Intrepid tour group members are gathering their belongings, tents sleeping bags, a night’s worth of clothes, here at the Swamp Stop campsite for a bush camp night on the Goa Island along the Okavango Delta in Botswana. (Nov. 6, 2024)My group members are gathering their belongings here at the Swamp Stop campsite for a bush camp night on the Goa Island along the Okavango Delta. The overland truck stayed here at the Swamp Stop campsite in Botswana. (Nov. 6, 2024)Me helping pass along the bed pads and the other items needed for the night onto the Speedboats that will take the group to Goa Island away from civilization and facilities. I was too tired and just did not want to go so I rented a cabin with views of the Okavango River. Thanks Trudy for the photo. (Nov. 6, 2024)The passing line continuing to get items and supplies onto the speedboats that will take the group to Goa Island, away from civilization and facilities for the night in Botswana. (Nov. 6, 2024)The group getting on the speedboats from the Swamp Stop campsite to the Goa Island for bush camp night in Botswana. (Nov. 6, 2024)The group on the speedboats from the Swamp Stop campsite to the Goa Island for bush camp night in Botswana. (Nov. 6, 2024)Wow, it’s actually an odd feeling to see my group leaving me behind at the Swamp Stop campsite as they head to the remote Goa Island for an overnight bush camp. But, I will see them in the morning. (Nov. 6, 2024)My cabin for the night at the Swamp Stop campsite along the Okavango River in Botswana. (Nov. 6, 2024)My cabin for the night at the Swamp Stop campsite along the Okavango River in Botswana. (Nov. 6, 2024)Inside my cabin for the night at the Swamp Stop campsite along the Okavango River in Botswana. (Nov. 6, 2024)Inside my cabin for the night at the Swamp Stop campsite along the Okavango River in Botswana. (Nov. 6, 2024)
Day 33: Nature walk and canoe ride to explore the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Okavango Delta in Botswana.
After a good night’s sleep on a bed in a cabin, I was off to meet up with my group who bush camped at the Goa Island along the Okavango Delta in Botswana.
I arrived at the bush camp after the tents had been packed up and breakfast was on the table all before taking a nature walk around the island and a Mokoro or small dugout canoe to explore the Okavango Delta.
Here’s to walking the bush and floating along the Okavango Delta.
My ride to the Goa Island where I met my Intrepid Travel group who bush camped for the night in literally the middle of nowhere. What I didn’t know, at the time, is that this group of young men would be our Mokoro canoe team (later on) to explore the Okavango Delta. (Nov. 7, 2024)Approaching the Goa Island, from my speedboat, to get dropped off by our Mokoro canoe team so I can join my Intrepid Travel group. The two speedboats parked along the island where my group spent the night. (Nov. 7, 2024)Arrived on the island of Goa and the bush camp site located somewhere along the Okavango Delta where my group spent the night. It was so good to see them and they were quite surprised when I showed up just in time for breakfast. They had packed up their tents and gathered their belongings. (Nov. 7, 2024)The royal throne, a toilet seat and chair over a hole in the ground, at the bush campsite on the Goa Island where my group spent the night along the Okavango Delta. They had no running water and no toilet facilities other than this royal throne. (Nov. 7, 2024)Lining up in single file for our bush/nature walk on the Goa Island along the Okavango Delta with my Intrepid tour group and our delta guide, Cedric. (Nov. 7, 2024)Between plants, animal footprints and elephant dung our bush walking tour guide, Cedric, on the Goa Island shared his knowledge of the kinds of animals and plants that cover the island and the Okavango Delta. (Nov. 7, 2024)Cedric, our Okavango Delta guide, showing us the hippo foot print, showing four toes and rhinos with three toes on the Goa Island. (Nov. 7, 2024)Mushrooms growing from the elephant dung are poisonous for humans but food for birds who pick up the undigested seeds on the island of Goa along the Okavango Delta while the monkeys and baboons eat the mushrooms. (Nov. 7, 2024)This termite mound on the Goa Island hill is said to be is over 100 years old and was built high up for the floods each year. This termite has no termites inside now. (Nov. 7, 2024)This termite mound on this Goa Island hill is said to be is over 100 years old and was built high up for the floods each year, this termite has no termites inside now. (Nov. 7, 2024)The hippo highway is a groove created by the hippos on Goa Island along the Okavango Delta. (Nov. 7, 2024)Walking along the bush of the Goa Island along the Okavango Delta. (Nov. 7, 2024)Back from our nature walk and getting ready to take the speedboats to meet up with our Mokoro – traditional Bostwanan canoe – guides through the mineral clear waters of the Okavango Delta. (Nov. 7, 2024)Back on the speedboat with views of the papyrus trees and the Okavango Delta’s waterways, lagoons and islands on our way to meet up with our Mokoro canoe team. (Nov. 7, 2024)Back on the speedboat with views of the papyrus trees and the Okavango Delta’s waterways, lagoons and islands on our way to meet up with our Mokoro canoe team. (Nov. 7, 2024)Arriving at beach area for our Mokoro – traditional Bostwanan canoe – ride/glide through the mineral clear waters of the Okavango Delta. (Nov. 7, 2024)On a beach area and getting instructions from one of our mokoro canoe guides, I.T., on our ride through the mineral clear waters of the Okavango Delta. (Nov. 7, 2024)Making our way onto the mokoro, the traditional small dugout canoe used to explore the Okavango Delta, in the midst of the thick papyrus and mud. Originally made from hollowed out trees, mokoros are now, generally, made out of fiberglass. (Nov. 7, 2024)On the mokoro, a traditional small dugout canoe, that takes two people and is poled along through the waterways by our guide who uses a long pole called a “ngashi” to push the mokoro forward. And, we’re surrounded in this small cove by overgrown papyrus. (Nov. 7, 2024)Courtney and me, along with our mokoro canoe guide, I.T., getting ready to set sail for our glide along the still waters of the Okavango Delta in our mokoro or small dugout canoe. The main instructions we were given was not to make any sudden moves. (Nov. 7, 2024)Making our way through the maze of this papyrus plant tunnel while gliding along the waterway of the Okavango Delta. (Nov. 7, 2024)My tour group in their mokoros at the Okavango Delta in Botswana. (Nov. 7, 2024)The water lilies along the waterway of the Okavango Delta. (Nov. 7, 2024)Gliding so close along this calm and peaceful waterway of the Okavango Delta with its labyrinth of papyrus channels and lily-pad-dotted lagoons. (Nov. 7, 2024)Gliding so close along this calm and peaceful waterway of the Okavango Delta with its labyrinth of papyrus channels and lily-pad-dotted lagoons. (Nov. 7, 2024)Gliding so close along this calm and peaceful waterway of the Okavango Delta with its labyrinth of papyrus channels and lily-pad-dotted lagoons. (Nov. 7, 2024)It was suppose to go around my neck but the lily-pod necklace made by our guide. I.T. at the Okavango Delta in Botswana didn’t makae it over my hat. (Nov. 7, 2024)Gliding close to the peaceful waterway of the Okavango Delta along its labyrinth of papyrus channels and lily-pad-dotted lagoons. (Nov. 7, 2024)The African Fish Eagle, the national bird of Botswana’s neighbors Zambia and Zimbabwe, on a tree branch in the Okavango Delta. (Nov. 7, 2024)The African Fish Eagle, the national bird of Botswana’s neighbors Zambia and Zimbabwe, in the Okavango Delta. (Nov. 7, 2024)Our group lined up for a photo on the waterway of the Okavango Delta. (Nov. 7, 2024)After a wonderful and peaceful glide along the waterway of the Okavango Delta, we head back through the maze of this papyrus plant tunnel. (Nov. 7, 2024)A view from my porch back at my little cabin at our Swamp Stop campsite overlooking the Okavango River in Botswana. (Nov. 7, 2024)
Namibia
Day 34: Leaving Botswana for good; Back to Namibia for pretty much the rest of the trip.
There’s a change in the air, it’s gotten a little cooler. Not sure just how long that will last, but I’m definitely loving it.
We crossed the border back into Namibia returning to Bagani and the Rainbow River Lodge camp for the night.
We arrived early enough at the Rainbow River Lodge to enjoy time at the bar area facing the Okavango River and for me to upgrade to a comfy cabin for the night.
Here’s to a cooler and relaxing day back in Namibia.
At the border of Namibia and Botswana. Most of our border crossings have been rather easy and quick. Not all, but definitely most, especially this one. (Nov. 8, 2024)Driving through the Bwabwata National Park in Namibia after crossing the border from Botswana. (Nov. 8, 2024)Back at the Rainbow River Lodge by the Okavango River in Namibia for the night. (Nov. 8, 2024)Me relaxing back at the Rainbow River Lodge by the Okavango River in Namibia after crossing the border from Botswana. (Nov. 8, 2024)The sun setting over the Okavango River in Namibia at the Rainbow River Lodge, our campsite for the night. (Nov. 8, 2024)The sun setting over the Okavango River in Namibia at the Rainbow River Lodge, our campsite for the night. (Nov. 8, 2024)My cabin for the night at the Rainbow River Lodge camp in Namibia. (Nov. 8, 2024)My cabin for the night at the Rainbow River Lodge camp in Namibia. (Nov. 8, 2024)Inside my cabin for the night at the Rainbow River Lodge camp in Namibia. (Nov. 8, 2024)My cabin bathroom for the night at the Rainbow River Lodge camp in Namibia. (Nov. 8, 2024)My view, along my cabin balcony, of our campsite and the Okavango River at the Rainbow River Lodge in Namibia. (Nov. 8, 2024)
Day 35: Leaving the Okavango River to make our way to the central Namibian town of Grootfontein.
We left the Okavango River area at the Rainbow River Lodge in Namibia on another one of those long drive days, but at least the weather was cooler and that goes a long way when we’re traveling in a truck with no air conditioning on those seemingly scolding hot days.
In total, it turned out to be about an eight hour drive with a 2-hour lunch break in the city of Rundu, Namibia at the Omashare Hotel as we continued our drive towards the town of Grootfontein in central Namibia.
Here’s to a long drive on a cool day and two nights at Roy’s Rest Camp in Grootfontein.
Saying good-by to the Okavango River in Namibia as we move on to the town of Grootfontein in central Namibia. (Nov. 9, 2024)Driving through the town of Rundu, Namibia, where we stopped for lunch and a quick snack run at a local grocery store. (Nov. 9, 2024)The shopping center in the town of Rundu, Namibia where we stopped for lunch and a quick snack run at a local grocery store. (Nov. 9, 2024)Passing a village outside of the town of Rundu, Namibia, on our way to the town of Grootfontein in central Namibia for the next two nights. A lot of the land between Rundu and Grootfontein is privately owned so seeing the people and the villages are few and far between. (Nov. 9, 2024)Roy’s Rest Camp, our campsite for the next two nights in Grootfontein, Namibia. This campsite is located pretty much in the middle of no where, but turned out to be a pretty great somewhere to be. (Nov. 9, 2024)One of the outdoor seating areas at Roy’s Rest Camp in Grootfontein, Namibia. (Nov. 9, 2024)Roy’s Rest Camp in Grootfontein, Namibia, was one of our most eclectic campsites. (Nov. 9, 2024)Roy’s Rest Camp in Grootfontein, Namibia, was one of our most eclectic campsites. (Nov. 9, 2024)These adorable tiny antelopes, called the Damara Dik Diks, that roam the grounds at Roy’s Rest Camp in Grootfontein in Namibia. (Nov. 9, 2024)Rain seemed to be looming in the air and the temperature was getting cooler, plus room #11 at Roy’s Rest Camp, was just too cozy and comfy to pass up. So, with two nights here a $56 USD a night, I upgraded. (Nov. 9, 2024)My room at Roy’s Rest Camp in Grootfontein, Namibia. I pack whatever I need for the night in the red bag while leaving my duffel bag in the overland truck. (Nov. 9, 2024)A visitor in my bathroom at Roy’s Rest Camp in Grootfontein, Namibia. I initially thought it was dead, but since I wasn’t sure, I asked for help at the reception area. It was most definitely alive. (Nov. 9, 2024)A close-up of the spider in my bathroom at Roy’s Rest Camp in Grootfontein. I’ve slept on the ground for a number of days as I’ve traveled through a number of African countries seeing a variety of wildlife. But, I’ve actually not seen any spiders until now. (Nov. 9, 2024)
Day 36: A visit to a living museum to understand the cultural experiences of the San people.
Today was a cultural experience about understanding the San people, considered the oldest known tribal inhabitants of Southern Africa, with evidence of their presence dating back at least 20,000 years.
The term San is commonly used to refer to a diverse group of hunter-gatherers living in Southern Africa who share historical and linguistic connections. The San were also referred to as Bushmen, but this term has since been abandoned as it is considered derogatory.
The San’s ancestral territories include Botswana, Namibia, Angola, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Lesotho, and South Africa.
To get this cultural understanding, we visited the Ju/‘hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe, Namibia, where we were introduced to historically dressed San people.
Although historically dressed and on a reconstructed hunting village, this living museum group, who also live in the local village, provide both an education and a way for the group to make a living by presenting their traditional culture to the public.
So, what is a Living Museum? It is not to show the modern life, but to reanimate the original culture in order to prevent the complete loss of the tradition. It also allows the participants to generate an income by sharing these traditional skills and cultures.
Please note: In the effort to be authentic, the women and men at the living museum are traditionally dressed in natural materials.
Let’s meet historically dressed San people.
Before leaving for our time at the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe, Namibia, we enjoyed breakfast at our campsite at Roy’s Rest Camp in Grootfontein, about 56 miles away from the museum. (Nov. 10, 2024)A morning visit by one of the many Damara Dik Diks at our Roy’s Rest Camp in Grootfontein. That’s Daniela smiling. Earlier in the tour, we were on the hunt for the Dik Diks on our various safaris and here they are walking freely around the campsite. (Nov. 10, 2024)I got to sit up front on with our Intrepid overland truck driver, John, as we made our way down a long 56-mile bumpy, dusty, gravel road from our campsite at Roy’s Rest Camp in Grootfontein to the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. (Nov. 10, 2024)The bumpy, dusty gravel 56-mile long road from our campsite at Roy’s Rest Camp in Grootfontein to the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. (Nov. 10, 2024)The bumpy, dusty gravel 56-mile long road from our campsite at Roy’s Rest Camp in Grootfontein to the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. (Nov. 10, 2024)The border entrance into Tsumkwe village in Namibia where the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum is located. I found out that all the land between our campsite and this village is owned by one or two private landowners. (Nov. 10, 2024)Henry, our guide and translator for our walk through the village at the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe. Henry does not live at the museum, instead, he lives in the close-by settlement which is known as the capital of the San people in Namibia. The settlement has a population of about 800 people and 85 of them participate in the living museum. (Nov. 10, 2024)The San people are known for their connection to the land as displayed at the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. (Nov. 10, 2024)The Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. The clothes of the San people were primarily made from animal skins, primarily the leather of the game they once hunted, like antelope, which they used to create simple garments like loincloths, skirks or cloaks. (Nov. 10, 2024)Making fire the traditional way by rubbing sticks and using grass at Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. (Nov. 10, 2024)Making fire the traditional way by rubbing sticks and using grass at Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. (Nov. 10, 2024)The people of the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. (Nov. 10, 2024)This young man demonstrated at the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia how the San people could get water from the barren land through an underground source. That underground source is this bi! Bulb, a root plant that contains water acquired by absorbing water from the sands around it holding it for months. Once they’ve used enough of the bulb, the San people bury it back into the ground to grow again. (Nov. 10, 2024)This young man is squeezing the pulp from the bi! bulb root plant that contains water it absorbed from the sands around it at the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. He crushed the pulp into his palms and squeezed it above his head while holding his thumb towards his mouth to create a path for the water to trickle down into his mouth. (Nov. 10, 2024)A mother breast feeding her baby at the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. (Nov. 10, 2024)Desert Stink Beetles at the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. The beetles are not poisonous to humans, but they can release a foul-smelling liquid that can irritate the skin and eyes. (Nov. 10, 2024)The women performing a rain dance at the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. (Nov. 10, 2024)The women performing a rain dance at the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. (Nov. 10, 2024)The group dancing together at the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. (Nov. 10, 2024)The entire group performing the elephant dance at the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in an effort to communicate with their ancestors and ask them not to bring bad things into the village. Considered renowned storytellers, the San people express themselves through their cave art, music and dance. (Nov. 10, 2024)The Craft Shop with locally made jewelry and other items including animal carvings at the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Namibia. Several of us, including myself, purchased items. (Nov. 10, 2024)The Craft Shop with locally made jewelry and other items including animal carvings at the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. Several of us, including myself, purchased items. (Nov. 10, 2024)The Craft Shop with locally made jewelry and other items including animal carvings at the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. Several of us, including myself, purchased items. (Nov. 10, 2024)The Craft Shop with locally made jewelry and other items including animal carvings at the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe in Namibia. Several of us, including myself, purchased items. (Nov. 10, 2024)Me with some of the women at the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum in Tsumkwe, Namibia. The Living Museum is considered to be an authentic way of preserving and presenting the connection to the land and the traditional culture of the San people, once derogatorily called the Bushmen. While the men hunt, the women, who are experts in foraging for edible mushrooms, bulbs, berries and melons, gather food for the family. Children stay at home to be watched over by those remaining in camp, but nursing children are carried on these gathering trips, adding to the load the women must carry. (Nov. 10, 2024)Back at our campsite at Roy’s Rest Camp in Grootfontein in Namibia where our driver John is helping to cook dinner, which tonight consists of barbecue lamb chops. (Nov. 10, 2024)
Day 37: On the road again to the Namutoni campsite at the Etosha National Park in Namibia.
We left Roy’s Camp site in Grootfontein at 7:30 this morning and even though we made an hour’s food shopping stop in Tsumeb, we still arrived at our Namuteni campsite, inside the Etosha National Park,at around noon.
After lunch, even though it was raining, we had time for an afternoon game drive of Etosha, which means Great White Place. The rain did help to cool things down a bit but that did not last long.
I so enjoyed my little cabin at Roy’s but for no upgrade for tonight, instead for the next two nights, I’ll be back in my tent at the Namutoni Camp. The temperature, once the sun went down, was just absolutely lovely. The rain also cooled things down which I’m hoping will make for a wonderful night’s sleep.
Here’s to seeing some of the wildlife at Etosha, one of the largest national parks in Africa.
Views of the beautiful land as we travel along the main road or C42 from Grootfontein to the Etosha National Park. Again, the land, miles and miles of it, are not owned by the country but by private landowners…private white landowners who own acres and acres of land. (Nov. 11, 2024)Views of the beautiful land as we travel along the main road or C42 from Grootfontein to the Etosha National Park. Again, the land, miles and miles of it, are not owned by the country but by private landowners…private white landowners who own acres and acres of land. (Nov. 11, 2024)A shopping center in the city of Tsumeb, Namibia, where we stopped for an hour to stretch our legs, buy snacks and use the toilet on our way to our campsite at the Etosha National Park for the night. The shopping center owned and run by the white landowners. (Nov. 11, 2024)This market where black residents sell their goods and where they shop is literally across the street from the shopping center owned and run by the white landowners in Tsumeb, Namibia. (Nov. 11, 2024)Entering Etosha National Park, our last wildlife animal park of the tour, in Namibia. (Nov. 11, 2024)Our group of 20 trying to take photos of wildlife inside our overland truck while we’re driving and stopping at Etosha National Park. Thanks Julia for the photo. (Nov. 11, 2024)The black-faced Impala lives and can only be found at Etosha National Park in Namibia. Black-faced Impalas are larger and darker than the common impala, with their black face being their characteristic feature. (Nov. 11, 2024)The Angolian Giraffe at Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 11, 2024)These gorgeous black, white, and yellowish brown zebras at Etosha National Park in Namibia are adapted to survive on these rocky grounds. (Nov. 11, 2024)These gorgeous black, white, and yellowish brown zebras at Etosh National Park in Namibia are adapted to survive on these rocky grounds. (Nov. 11, 2024)These gorgeous black, white, and yellowish brown zebras at Etosh National Park in Namibia are adapted to survive on these rocky grounds. (Nov. 11, 2024)We arrived around lunch time at our campsite for the night, Namuteni, inside of Etosha National Park. (Nov. 11, 2024)Before setting up our tents, we take a walk around the campsites to see where everything is located before putting up our tents. And, that’s no different here at the Namuteni campsite inside the Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 11, 2024)Getting our tents set up at the Namuteni campsite inside the Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 11, 2024)Getting our tents set up at the Namuteni campsite inside the Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 11, 2024)I’m quite impressed by the shared bathroom facilities at the Namuteni campsite inside the Etosha National Park in Namibia. It’s always the little things like soap provided to wash our hangs with and paper towels to dry our hands off. However, these little things in this bathroom are not customary but most definitely appreciated. (Nov. 11, 2024)Enjoying a late afternoon game drive back on our overland truck at Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 11, 2024)A herd of Springbok along the Etosha pan at the Etosha National Park during our late afternoon game drive. The pan is a flat vast, bare, open expanse salt pan of shimmering green and white that looks like water…but it’s not. (Nov. 11, 2024)The South African Oryx, a large antelope, at Etosha National Park. They are adapted to survive in the dry and barren lands, going months without water. In fact, the Oryx is endemic to the dry and barren regions of Botswana, Namibia, South Africa and (parts of) Zimbabwe, mainly inhabiting the Kalahari and Namib Deserts, areas in which it is supremely adapted for survival. (Nov. 11, 2024)The South African Oryx, a large antelope, at Etosha National Park. They are adapted to survive in the dry and barren lands, going months without water. In fact, the Oryx is endemic to the dry and barren regions of Botswana, Namibia, South Africa and (parts of) Zimbabwe, mainly inhabiting the Kalahari and Namib Deserts, areas in which it is supremely adapted for survival. (Nov. 11, 2024)The Etosha Pan inside the Etosha National Park, know as the “Place of Mirages”, is an enormous expanse flat salt pan that glimmers in a light green creating a mirage that looks like water…but it’s not. The pan’s white surface reflects the heat, creating mirages that make it seem like animals are floating in space. (Nov. 11, 2024)Hartmann’s mountain zebras at Etosha National Park in Namibia have broad black stripes on an off-white body. These zebras are a subspecies of the mountain zebras that adapted to survive in rocky, mountainous areas. (Nov. 11, 2024)Springbok at Etosha National Park in Namibia. Springbok are medium-sized, brown and white antelope-gazelles known for their speed and unique leaping behavior. (Nov. 11, 2024)Another Springbok at the Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 11, 2024)Giraffe at the Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 11, 2024)This male giraffe at the Etosha National Park has dark spots that tend to occur as they age. On average, the lifespan of giraffes, in their natural habitat, is about 25 years. Their greatest predator is the lion. It would take four lions to bring down a giraffe because giraffes can use their front and hind legs to kick. The spots on giraffes, particularly in male giraffes, tend to darken as they age, and this darkening is believed to be a signal of social status and dominance, indicating their physical condition and competitive ability rather than solely reflecting age; with darker spots potentially signifying a more solitary, aggressive male seeking mates, while lighter spotted males may be more social and travel in groups. (Nov. 11, 2024)Back at our Namuteni campsite at the Etosha National Park in Namibia for dinner and for the night. (Nov. 11, 2024)
Day 38: A full-day game drive thru Etosha National Park in Namibia.
The morning was cool but comfortable as we began our full-day game drive from one end of the Etosha National Park in Namibia to the other.
For our last game drive of the tour, we were treated to a host of wildlife including zebras, wildebeest, oryx, springboks, black-faced Impalas, elephants, kudos and giraffes. The morning started out a little cool but the heat came in strong.
Along with the wildlife, we also spent time and got to enjoy the Etosha salt pans, a flat area in a desert where salt deposits accumulate due to evaporation of water. The Etosha Pan appears like a mirage because its vast, flat, white salt surface reflects the intense sunlight, creating a shimmering effect that distorts the horizon and makes distant objects seem like they are floating in the air.
We spent our last night at the Okaukuejo Camp on the western end of Etosha National Park. This place felt like a camping country club, a lot fancier than our other campsites.
Come join me for my last game drive of the tour at Etosha National Park.
This is just half our group on our overland truck as we make our way from one end of Etosha National Park to the other in search of wildlife. The other half of our group paid to upgrade to a 4×4 jeep instead of viewing wildlife at the park from our truck. (Nov. 12, 2024)The man made waterholes for the wildlife at Etosha National Park. (Nov. 12, 2024)The man made waterholes for the wildlife to drink out of at the Etosha National Park. The zebras making their way to the waterhole. (Nov. 12, 2024)The man made waterholes for the wildlife to drink out of at the Etosha National Park. The zebras making their way to the waterhole. (Nov. 12, 2024)The beautiful black faced Impala only found at Etosha National Park. (Nov. 12, 2024)The Kudu at the Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 12, 2024)The zebras and impalas grazing along the Etosha pan at the Etosha National Park. The Etosha Pan appears like a mirage because its vast, flat, white salt surface reflects the intense sunlight, creating a shimmering effect that distorts the horizon and makes distant objects seem like they are floating in the air. (Nov. 12, 2024)The Oryx roaming along the Etosha pan at the Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 12, 2024)Enjoyed seeing Wildebeest, zebras and springbok roaming along the Etosha pan at the Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 12, 2024)A close-up of the springbok and zebras grazing together along the Etosha pan at the Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 12, 2024)The Leopard Tortoise at the Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 12, 2024)The Leopard Tortoise at the Etosha National Park in Namibia about to enter its in-ground shelter. (Nov. 12, 2024)The African Bush Elephants at the manmade watering hole at the Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 12, 2024)The African Bush Elephants at the manmade watering hole at the Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 12, 2024)The elephants at the watering hole at Etosha National Park with the zebras and the kudu waiting in the distance to approach and also drink from the watering hole. (Nov. 12, 2024)he Kudu trying to delicately make their water to the watering hole while the elephants are present at the Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 12, 2024)The zebras very slowly and gently approached the watering hole at the Etosha National Park. The zebras look so small against these huge elephants. (Nov. 12, 2024)A shelter area inside the Etosha National Park where we stopped for a quick lunch. (Nov. 12, 2024)A shelter area inside the Etosha National Park where we stopped for a quick lunch. (Nov. 12, 2024)The Etosha Pan is a large depression located in a semi-arid part of Namibia. (Nov. 12, 2024)Me at the salt pan of the Etosha Pan at the Etosha National Park. It really does look as if the land meets the sky at the top of my head. (Nov. 12, 2024)Getting in a quick half group selfie (the other half decided to do a 4×4 game drive) at the Etosha pan in the Etosha National Park. From left: Julia, Joyce, xxx, Samantha, Serena, Chrissy, Jill, Wadey, Shi (black scarf covering her head), Daniela, Laban, Courtney and me. (Nov. 12, 2024)The Etosha Pan at the Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 12, 2024)The flat bottom clouds hovering over Etosha National Park. (Nov. 12, 2024)Ostriches at the Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 12, 2024)Ostriches at the Etosha National Park in Namibia. (Nov. 12, 2024)The morning game drive on our overland truck was lovely because the weather was comfortable. But by the afternoon, I was miserable. Between the heat and the bumpy roads, my energy was pretty much zapped by the time we arrived here at the Okaukuejo Camp. Somehow I got my second wind, put up my tent…with some help and joined several of my travel mates for a couple bottles of Savanna Premium Cider at the reception area. I think with the heat and being tired, I just haven’t had much of an appetite but for tonight’s campsite dinner, we had cucumber soup, which was tasty and spaghetti bolognese which was delicious and exactly what I wanted. Then I took a nice shower and went to bed in my tent. (Nov. 12, 2024)
Day 39: Bushmen rock art paintings in the Spitzkoppe mountain or the ‘Matterhorn of Namibia’.
I woke to the most gorgeous sunrise at our Okaukuejo Campsite at the western end of the Etosha National Park in Namibia.
What I didn’t know, was that this sunrise would be just one of several majestic sights for the day because it included our travels to the mountain of Spitzkoppe or the ‘Matterhorn of Namibia’.
The mountain itself is 700 million years old and6,519 feet or 1987 meters high. Having seen the Matterhorn in Switzerland just last year, the beauty of the Namibian Matterhorn is the stunning Namib desert landscape around it and setting up our campsite within full view of its majesty.
The Spitzkoppe is known for its stunning beauty and the thousands of ancient Bushmen rock art paintings that are still viewable. We did get to see a very small portion of the unfortunately, faded rock art paintings at the Small Bushman Paradise at the base of a cliff in Spitzkoppe.
We camped inside the Spitzkoppe and even though we only had a covered western toilet for facilities, it was a wonderful camping experience.
Join me for the beauty and history of the Spitzkoppe mountain in the Namib desert of Namibia.
Me with views of the Spitzkoppe mountain or the ‘Matterhorn of Namibia’ in the distance. Spitzkoppe is a group of bald granite peaks or inselbergs located between Usakos and Swakopmund in the Namib desert of Namibia. (Nov. 13, 2024)Before heading out to the stunning Spitzkoppe mountain, I woke up to this stunning sunrise view at the Okaukuejo Camp on the western end of the Etosha National Park. (Nov. 13, 2024)Before heading out to the stunning Spitzkoppe mountain, I woke up to this stunning sunrise view at the Okaukuejo Camp on the western end of the Etosha National Park. (Nov. 13, 2024)Inside my tent this morning as I packed up my sleeping bag, sleeping mat and personal items at the Okaukuejo Camp on the western end of the Etosha National Park. Having the red and white bag makes it easy to transport things. It has an extra change of clothes, my sleeping clothes, toiletries, towel, a camping sheet and pillow. All that I need for a night’s sleep in my tent. (Nov. 13, 2024)This huge nest at the nest Okaukuejo Camp on the western end of the Etosha National Park took the small social weaver birds years to create. It’s actually a nest with tunnels inside to keep the birds safe from snakes. (Nov. 13, 2024)This huge nest at the nest Okaukuejo Camp on the western end of the Etosha National Park took the small social weaver birds years to create. It’s actually a nest with tunnels inside to keep the birds safe from snakes. (Nov. 13, 2024)A close-up of the society weaver birds nest at the Okaukuejo Camp on the western end of the Etosha National Park showing the entrance holes to the various little tunnels used to get inside. (Nov. 13, 2024)The nest of the social weaver birds. They build various little tunnels to get inside. (Nov. 13, 2024)The nest of the social weaver birds. They build various little tunnels to get inside. (Nov. 13, 2024)From the white town to the black town, which is miles and miles apart of gorgeous land that is owned by one person. (Nov. 13, 2024)Stopping in the settlement of Kalkfeld where black people live in Namibia between the large white-owned land swats. (Nov. 13, 2024)Doing chores, like washing dishes, food prep and cleaning out the truck are a part of us working together, sharing and getting to know one another. Here one of the food prep teams helping out by chopping vegetables and fruit during our lunch stop at the black settlement of Kalkfeld in Namibia as we made our way to our bush campsite at Spitzkoppe mountain. (Nov. 13, 2024)The dusty road leading to the Spitzkoppe mountain or the ‘Matterhorn of Namibia’. The group of mountains with striking granite peaks and smooth boulders in unusual shapes in the Namib desert of Namibia. (Nov. 13, 2024)Spitzkoppe mountain or the ‘Matterhorn of Namibia’. Spitzkoppe is a group of bald granite peaks located between Usakos and Swakopmund in the Namib desert of Namibia. (Nov. 13, 2024)Heading to the Small Bushman Paradise, with out rock art guide Jennifer, where 2000 to 4000 year old rock paintings can be seen by the Bushmen people, now the San people, at the base or slope of a cliff at the Spitzkoppe Mountains, a group of mountains with striking granite peaks and smooth boulders in unusual shapes. The Bushmen, also known as the San, are indigenous hunter-gatherer people of southern Africa. They are the oldest inhabitants of the region, and are thought to have lived there for at least 20,000 years. (Nov. 13, 2024)The Small Bushman Paradise rock art paintings, discovered half a century ago, are found beyond the wired fence at the foot of this large cliff at the Spitzkoppe Mountains. (Nov. 13, 2024)The sloping cliff along the Small Bushman Paradise where the rock art paintings located at the base of this cliff of the Spitzkoppe mountains. (Nov. 13, 2024)Our rock art guide, Jennifer, pointing out the faded 2,000 to 4,000-year-old rock art paintings at the Small Bushman Paradise at Spitzkoppe in the Namib desert of Namibia. (Nov. 13, 2024)A close-up of the 2,000 to 4,000-year-old rock art paintings at the Small Bushman Paradise at Spitzkoppe in the Namib desert of Namibia. (Nov. 13, 2024)A close-up of the 2,000 to 4,000-year-old rock art paintings at the Small Bushman Paradise at Spitzkoppe in the Namib desert of Namibia. (Nov. 13, 2024)A close-up of the 2,000 to 4,000-year-old rock art paintings at the Small Bushman Paradise at Spitzkoppe in the Namib desert of Namibia. (Nov. 13, 2024)A close-up of the 2,000 to 4,000-year-old rock art paintings at the Small Bushman Paradise at Spitzkoppe in the Namib desert of Namibia. (Nov. 13, 2024)A close-up of the 2,000 to 4,000-year-old rock art paintings at the Small Bushman Paradise at Spitzkoppe in the Namib desert of Namibia. (Nov. 13, 2024)The Spitzkoppe mountain or the ‘Matterhorn of Namibia’. (Nov. 13, 2024)The facilities were sparse, just a covered outdoor western toilet, but what a uniquely spectacular place with massive red peaks protruding from the large plains and oversized, granite boulders scattered over the area of Spitzkoppe in Namibia. (Nov. 13, 2024)My tent by this massive rock formation with views of the Spitzkoppe mountain or the ‘Matterhorn of Namibia’. (Nov. 13, 2024)Getting in a selfie with views of the Spitzkoppe mountain or the ‘Matterhorn of Namibia’. Spitzkoppe is a group of bald granite peaks or inselbergs located between Usakos and Swakopmund in the Namib desert of Namibia. (Nov. 13, 2024)Views from inside my tent at our campsite at the Spitzkoppe mountain or the ‘Matterhorn of Namibia’ in the Namib desert just as the sun was setting. (Nov. 13, 2024)The sunsetting at our campsite of the Spitzkoppe mountain or the ‘Matterhorn of Namibia’ in the Namib desert. (Nov. 13, 2024)The sunsetting at our campsite of the Spitzkoppe mountain or the ‘Matterhorn of Namibia’ in the Namib desert. (Nov. 13, 2024)The beautiful and dazzling orange and red hues at our campsite of the Spitzkoppe mountain or the ‘Matterhorn of Namibia’ in the Namib desert. (Nov. 13, 2024)Several tour members climbed up a rock face near our campsite of the Spitzkoppe mountain to catch the dazzling orange and red hues of the sunset in the Namib desert. (Nov. 13, 2024)The beautiful and dazzling orange and red hues at our campsite of the Spitzkoppe mountain or the ‘Matterhorn of Namibia’ in the Namib desert. (Nov. 13, 2024)Celebrating Chrissy’s birthday at our Spitzkoppe mountain or the ‘Matterhorn of Namibia’ campsite in the Namib desert. (Nov. 13, 2024)Cleaning up for the night at our bushmen campsite in the Spitzkoppe mountain area of the Namibia desert in Namibia. (Nov. 13, 2024)
Day 40: The Seals of Cape Cross on our way to Swakopmund, Namibia.
All in all, it was a leisurely day with a morning drive to the Cape Cross Seal Reserve on our way to our home base for the next three nights, the German town of Swakopmund.
The Cape Cross offers two highlights: the sanctuary for the world’s largest breeding colony of Cape fur seals at the Cape Cross Seal Reserve and a historical stone cross landmark erected by Diego Cão in 1485, as the first european explorer, set foot on the Namibian coast.
I’ve seen seals but I’ve never seen or smelled them in mass as I did at the Cape Cross Seal Reserve. It was actually both an amazing and a disgusting experience. Along with the temps dropping as we approached the Atlantic Ocean, the thousands and thousands of olive-colored seals on the shores of Cape Cross were eerie looking along the Atlantic Coast.
Situated at the edge of the Namib Desert, Swakopmund is the fourth largest population center in Namibia with a community of people descended from ethnic German colonists who settled in present-day Namibia. The city, founded in 1892, is known for its 19th century German colonial architecture.
We’re staying in what they call chalets for the next three nights at the Swakopmund Rest Camp. It’s a single unit, we’re in 164, that accommodates four people, two in each room. There’s a separate bathroom with the usuals, a shower and sink with the toilet in a separate room. There’s a descent sized living room with older, uncomfortable furniture and a decently equipped kitchen with a stove and large refrigerator. The WiFi is available in the reception area but occasionally it works in our chalet.
However, this is no chalet, but it is very basic accommodations in a pretty basic place that looks more like a military camp. Even though both Julia and I both paid the single supplement, it doesn’t apply to staying at the chalets in Swakopmund. I’m sharing a room with Julia and we’re sharing our chalet with our only married couple on the tour, Chris and Kate.
Before settling into our chalet, we stopped as a group at Mercha Booking Agency to sign up for activities. Basically we were handed three pages of fun things to do from sky diving to paragliding or quad biking to sandboarding. I chose none of those.
Instead, I chose the Sandwich Harbor, a 4×4 tour past the Salt Pans and into the Namib-Naukluft Park “where ocean and desert meet,” for tomorrow. And the Township Tour of Swakopmund’s Damara, Herero and Ovamba sectors of the township to experience the local Namibian traditional culture of these tribes, for Saturday.
Making it to Swakopmund with a stop at the Cape Cross Seal Reserve.
On our way to the town of Swakopmund we stopped here at the Namibia Parks and Wildlife to see the Cape Cross Seal Reserve, a sanctuary for the world’s largest breeding colony of Cape fur seals located along the Skeleton Coast here in Namibia. (Nov. 14, 2024)Initially approaching the Cape Cross Seal Reserve was a bit of a shock with dead seals, mostly pups, just laying out in the open. Evidently their deaths, during this November breeding season, are associated with a variety of reasons, including malnutrition. (Nov. 14, 2024)The dead Cape fur seal pups are scattered throughout this area of the Cape Cross Seal Reserve in Namibia. Some die of starvation, others die by the hands of other seals. (Nov. 14, 2024)The dead Cape fur seal pups are scattered throughout this area of the Cape Cross Seal Reserve in Namibia. Some die of starvation, others die by the hands of other seals. (Nov. 14, 2024)The Cape Cross Seal Reserve, a sanctuary for the world’s largest breeding colony of Cape fur seals here in Namibia. This scene of thousands of seals is absolutely amazing, along with the disgusting smell. (Nov. 14, 2024)The Cape Cross Seal Reserve in Namibia, where the Cape fur seals number between 80,000 and 100,000. (Nov. 14, 2024)The Cape Cross Seal Reserve in Namibia, where the Cape fur seals number between 80,000 and 100,000. (Nov. 14, 2024)The Cape Cross Seal Reserve in Namibia, where the Cape fur seals number between 80,000 and 100,000. (Nov. 14, 2024)The Cape Cross Seal Reserve in Namibia, where the Cape fur seals number between 80,000 and 100,000. (Nov. 14, 2024)The wooden viewing deck at the Cape Cross Seal Reserve sanctuary in Namibia where people can walk to see the world’s largest breeding colony of Cape fur seals. Some sections of the walkway have missing slats and gaps where the seal pups get trapped and die. (Nov. 14, 2024)The wooden viewing deck at the Cape Cross Seal Reserve sanctuary in Namibia where people can walk to see the world’s largest breeding colony of Cape fur seals. Some sections of the walkway have missing slats and gaps where the seal pups get trapped and die. (Nov. 14, 2024)In 1486, celebrated Portuguese explorer, Diego Cão, erected a padrão , a stone cross at Cape Cross by the Cape Cross Seal Reserve, establishing Portugal’s claim to the territory on this barren coast. Over the next 400 years many ships wrecked on these shores. In 1884 the first sighting of Cape fur seals off the coast of Southern Africa was recorded. Cão, a knight in the court of King John II of Portugal, is said to be the first European to land in Namibia. (Nov. 14, 2024)In 1486, celebrated Portuguese explorer, Diego Cão, erected a padrão , a stone cross at Cape Cross by the Cape Cross Seal Reserve, establishing Portugal’s claim to the territory on this barren coast. The cross was a symbol of Christianity, a way to mark the Portuguese crown’s claim to the land, and a landmark for ships. The original cross was removed in 1893 and sent to the Deutsches Historisches Museum in Berlin. (Nov. 14, 2024)Passing the salt plants on our way to the town of Swakopmund. Salt plants are prevalent in this area of Namibia because of its coastal location along the Atlantic Ocean. Combined with a hot and arid climate that leads to high evaporation rates thus making it ideal for producing salt through solar evaporation of seawater in the large salt pans. Essentially the coastal areas are turning into natural salt production sites; this is why salt plants are prevalent in Namibia. (Nov. 14, 2024)Stopping for lunch at this deserted-looking area at the Dorob National Park on our way to the town of Swakopmund. (Nov. 14, 2024)Getting set up for lunch at this deserted-looking area at the Dorob National Park on our way to the town of Swakopmund. (Nov. 14, 2024)An array of sparkling stones locals place for sale at the Dorob National Park: fluorite, tourmaline, aquamarine, crystal quartz, garnets and topaz. Namibia is a geological haven rich in minerals, including colored gemstones. (Nov. 14, 2024)The Salt Company in Namibia, on the way to the town of Swakopmund, utilizes large evaporation ponds to produce salt by harnessing the natural conditions. Namibia’s climate features very little rainfall and intense sunlight, which rapidly evaporates seawater in salt pans. (Nov. 14, 2024)Our home base for the next three nights, the Swakopmund Rest Camp (Nov. 14, 2024)Although we were not staying in these rectangular-looking chalets at the Swakopmund Rest Camp, they definitely were cool-looking. (Nov. 14, 2024)
Day 41: The ocean and desert at of Sandwich Harbour in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia.
Although the sun was out and it was a beautiful day, it was also quite chilly for our full day of adventures on our 4×4 ‘Sandwich Harbour Tour,’ past the salt pans and salt productions into the Namib-Naukluft Park where the ocean and desert and its dunes meet.
Here’s to another one of those stunning, memorable days onthis African journey.
Me at the Namib Desert of Erongo, Namibia, where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Namib Desert. Even though the sun was out and felt wonderful, the air blowing from the ocean was cool. (Nov. 15, 2024)The homes along the Kovambo Nujoma Drive in Walvis Bay just outside of Swakopmund in Namibia and across from the Pelican Point sand pit with the flamingos. (Nov. 15, 2024)The beautiful homes along the Kovambo Nujoma Drive in Walvis Bay just outside of Swakopmund in Namibia and across from the Pelican Point sand pit with the flamingos. (Nov. 15, 2024)The beautiful homes along the Kovambo Nujoma Drive in Walvis Bay just outside of Swakopmund in Namibia and across from the Pelican Point sand pit with the flamingos. (Nov. 15, 2024)Just across from the beautiful homes is the Pelican Point sand spit, in Walvis Bay outside of Swakopmund in Namibia, is a lagoon that’s home to abundant birdlife including these flamingos. (Nov. 15, 2024)Just across from the beautiful homes is the Pelican Point sand spit, in Walvis Bay outside of Swakopmund in Namibia, is a lagoon that’s home to abundant birdlife including these flamingos. (Nov. 15, 2024)The Pelican Point sand spit, in Walvis Bay outside of Swakopmund in Namibia, is a lagoon that’s home to abundant birdlife including these flamingos. (Nov. 15, 2024)The Pelican Point sand spit, in Walvis Bay outside of Swakopmund in Namibia, is a lagoon that’s home to abundant birdlife including these flamingos. (Nov. 15, 2024)The salt refinery in Walvis Bay is the largest solar sea salt producer in sub-Saharan Africa. It processes 90 million cubic meters of seawater to produce over 900,000 tons of salt annually, naturally dried by the sun. Walvis Bay supplies over 50% of South Africa’s salt. (Nov. 15, 2024)The salt refinery in Walvis Bay is the largest solar sea salt producer in sub-Saharan Africa. It processes 90 million cubic meters of seawater to produce over 900,000 tons of salt annually, naturally dried by the sun. Walvis Bay supplies over 50% of South Africa’s salt. (Nov. 15, 2024)The salt refinery in Walvis Bay is the largest solar sea salt producer in sub-Saharan Africa. It processes 90 million cubic meters of seawater to produce over 900,000 tons of salt annually, naturally dried by the sun. Walvis Bay supplies over 50% of South Africa’s salt. (Nov. 15, 2024)The salt refinery in Walvis Bay is the largest solar sea salt producer in sub-Saharan Africa. It processes 90 million cubic meters of seawater to produce over 900,000 tons of salt annually, naturally dried by the sun. Walvis Bay supplies over 50% of South Africa’s salt. (Nov. 15, 2024)Me by the pink saltwater pans around Walvis Bay in Namibia, close to Swakopmund are salt evaporation ponds that produce salt and sometimes turn pink due to algae and bacteria.. (Nov. 15, 2024)The pink saltwater pans around Walvis Bay in Namibia, close to Swakopmund are salt evaporation ponds that produce salt and sometimes turn pink due to algae and bacteria.. (Nov. 15, 2024)The pink saltwater pans around Walvis Bay in Namibia, close to Swakopmund are salt evaporation ponds that produce salt and sometimes turn pink due to algae and bacteria.. (Nov. 15, 2024)The Walvis Bay lagoon in Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)The Walvis Bay lagoon in Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)Driving on the D1986 running through the salt lakes in Walvis Bay on the coast of Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)Entering the Namib Naukluft Park, along the Atlantic Ocean in Namibia, to see the stunning dessert dunes of Sandwich Harbour. (Nov. 15, 2024)The tiny particles and minerals that make up the pink-looking sand around the salt pans along the Namib desert Atlantic Ocean front of the Sandwich Harbour in the Namibia Naukluft Park. (Nov. 15, 2024)Our guide getting a photo close-up of the tiny particles and minerals that make up the pink-looking sand around the salt pans along the Namib desert Atlantic Ocean front of the Sandwich Harbour in the Namibia Naukluft Park. (Nov. 15, 2024)A close up of the the tiny particles and minerals that make up the sand along the Namib desert Atlantic Ocean front in Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)My jeep mates during our wonderful Sandwich Harbour tour along the ocean and desert outside Swakopmund in Namibia. From left: me, Julia, Jill, Kate and Chris.(Nov. 15, 2024)Getting in a selfie along the Namib desert dunes and the Atlantic Ocean in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)Getting in a selfie with Julia along the Namib desert dunes and the Atlantic Ocean in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)The large Namib desert dunes of Sandwich Harbour in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)The large Namib desert dunes of Sandwich Harbour in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)A number of our group members running down the side of the large Namib desert dunes of Sandwich Harbour in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)Driving through the incredible Namib desert dunes of Sandwich Harbour in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)Me with views of the Namib desert dunes and Atlantic Ocean of Sandwich Harbour in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)Drive through some of the highest dunes in the world at the Namib desert on our 4×4 ‘Sandwich Harbour Tour,’ in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)Driving through the incredible Namib desert dunes of Sandwich Harbour in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)Me at the sand dunes of the Namib desert at Sandwich Harbour in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)Stopping for a late afternoon snack among the dunes of the Namib desert at Sandwich Harbour in the Namibia Naukluft Park. (Nov. 15, 2024)Setting up for a delicious late afternoon snack among the dunes of the Namib desert at Sandwich Harbour in the Namibia Naukluft Park. (Nov. 15, 2024)A delicious late afternoon snack among the dunes of the Namib desert at Sandwich Harbour in the Namibia Naukluft Park. (Nov. 15, 2024)A delicious late afternoon snack among the dunes of the Namib desert at Sandwich Harbour in the Namibia Naukluft Park. (Nov. 15, 2024)Back in Swakopmund at our sandy, very sterile-looking home base, or chalets as they are called, the Swakopmund Rest Camp. (Nov. 15, 2024)Our chalet at the Swakopmund Rest Camp. (Nov. 15, 2024)Our kitchen at our chalet at the Swakopmund Restaurant Camp. (Nov. 15, 2024)The bedroom Julia and I shared at our chalet at the Swakopmund Restaurant Camp. Even though we both paid the Single Supplement, that did not extend to having our own rooms at the chalet, but it worked out for us and our roomies next door, Kate and Chris. (Nov. 15, 2024)And, our descent sized shared bathroom, with a separate toilet, at our chalet at the Swakopmund Restaurant Camp. (Nov. 15, 2024)Out for dinner with my roomies Julia, Kate and Chris at the Jetty Restaurant back in Swakopmund. This is the beginning of the pier or jetty leading to the restaurant. (Nov. 15, 2024)Walking along the wooden jetty or pier across the South Atlantic Ocean to the Jetty Restaurant in Swakpomund for dinner. (Nov. 15, 2024)The palm-tree lined beach promenade, seen from the jetty or pier, is named after Arnold Schad who served as the mayor of Swakopmund in German South-West Africa from 1915 until 1918. (Nov. 15, 2024)Continuing to walk across the jetty extending out along the South Atlantic Ocean to the Jetty Restaurant in Swakopmund for dinner. (Nov. 15, 2024)The palm-tree lined beach promenade, seen from the jetty or pier, is named after Arnold Schad who served as the mayor of Swakopmund in German South-West Africa from 1915 until 1918. (Nov. 15, 2024)Continuing to walk across the jetty extending out along the South Atlantic Ocean to the Jetty Restaurant in Swakopmund for dinner. (Nov. 15, 2024)Finally reaching the Jetty Restaurant in Swakopmund, Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)My creamy shrimp treat with toasted bread at the Jetty Restaurant in Swakopmund, Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)Inside the Jetty Restaurant in Swakopmund, Namibia. (Nov. 15, 2024)
Day 42: Views of Swakopmund, the Museum and the Mondesa Township Tour.
It started as a leisurely day for me. I took myself out to a nice breakfast at the Village Cafe walked to the Swakopmund Museum before taking a late afternoon township tour of Mondesa during our last day in Swakopmund.
Views around Swakopmund, Namibia and the Village Cafe where I had a really great breakfast. (Nov. 16, 2024)Views around Swakopmund, Namibia. (Nov. 16, 2024)Views around Swakopmund, Namibia. (Nov. 16, 2024)Views around Swakopmund, Namibia. (Nov. 16, 2024)Old Craft Market vendors around the entrance to the Swakopmund Museum. (Nov. 16, 2024)The Mole Beach by the Swakopmund Museum. (Nov. 16, 2024)The Mole Beach by the Swakopmund Museum. (Nov. 16, 2024)The Swakopmund Museum is a hodge podge of exhibits but it mainly covers the colonial history of Swakopmund. However there are taxidermy animals, vehicles, geology and and ethnic group exhibits. (Nov. 16, 2024)Various taxidermy animals of Namibia inside the Swakopmund Museum. (Nov. 16, 2024)Various taxidermy animals of Namibia inside the Swakopmund Museum. (Nov. 16, 2024)Inside the Swakopmund Museum from the second floor. (Nov. 16, 2024)A view of the Swakopmund Lighthouse from inside the Swakopmund Museum. Constructed in 1902, the lighthouse is one of the most prominent landmarks in Swakopmund. (Nov. 16, 2024)The ‘History of Swakopmund’ Lecture Room inside the Swakopmund Museum. (Nov. 16, 2024)A photo of the concentration camp of the Herero and Nama genocide at the Swakopmund Museum. During the war, and genocide, against the Herero and Nama peoples by the German Schutztruppe in 1904-1907, a concentration camp was established at Swakopmund at Shark Island. About 7,682 of the 17,000 prisoners-of-war nationwide, died. (Nov. 16, 2024)An exhibit of a colonial-era German kitchen inside the Swakopmund Museum. (Nov. 16, 2024)An exhibit of a colonial-era German sewing room inside the Swakopmund Museum. (Nov. 16, 2024)The “People of Namibia” exhibit inside the Swakopmund Museum that focuses on the traditional heritage of the different native ethnic groups of Namibia. (Nov. 16, 2024)The “People of Namibia” exhibit inside the Swakopmund Museum that focuses on the traditional heritage of the different native ethnic groups of Namibia. (Nov. 16, 2024)The “People of Namibia” exhibit inside the Swakopmund Museum that focuses on the traditional heritage of the different native ethnic groups of Namibia. (Nov. 16, 2024)The “People of Namibia” exhibit inside the Swakopmund Museum that focuses on the traditional heritage of the different native ethnic groups of Namibia. (Nov. 16, 2024)The “People of Namibia” exhibit inside the Swakopmund Museum that focuses on the traditional heritage of the different native ethnic groups of Namibia. (Nov. 16, 2024)The Swakopmund Namibia German WW1 and WW2 war memorial at a pine tree park by the Old Craft Market vendors. (Nov. 16, 2024)The Open Craft Market is located near the beachfront and lighthouse, and is a short distance from the Swakopmund Museum. (Nov. 16, 2024)After taking an afternoon break, I took part in this Mondesa township tour, on the outskirts of Swakopmund. Mondesa was established in the early 1950’s to provide housing for blacks working in Swakopmund. We began the tour at the outdoor market area. (Nov. 16, 2024)Shopping for fruit, nuts and more along the main road in the Mondesa Township on the outskirts of Swakopmund. (Nov. 16, 2024)Shopping for fruit, nuts, vegetables and more along the main road in the Mondesa Township on the outskirts of Swakopmund. (Nov. 16, 2024)Shopping for tools, toilets, sinks and more along the main road in the Mondesa Township on the outskirts of Swakopmund. (Nov. 16, 2024)Tasting street food in the Mondesa Township on the outskirts of Swakopmund. (Nov. 16, 2024)Tasting street food in the Mondesa Township on the outskirts of Swakopmund. (Nov. 16, 2024)The Mondesi township on the outskirts of Swakopmund, Namibia. (Nov. 16, 2024)Stopping at a Democratic Resettlement Community kindergarden in the Mondesa township, on the outskirts of Swakopmund, to meet and talk to the teacher dressed in the traditional Herero dress. The pointed fabric hat represents cow horns, significant and symbolic for the Herero people. (Nov. 16, 2024)Stopping at a Democratic Resettlement Community kindergarden in the Mondesa township, on the outskirts of Swakopmund, to meet and talk to the teacher dressed in the traditional Herero dress. The pointed fabric hat represents cow horns, significant and symbolic for the Herero people. (Nov. 16, 2024)In 2003, the Democratic Resettlement Community or DRC was officially declared a slum district of Swakopmund by the city administration. Originally founded as a temporary resettlement community for people waiting for subsidized housing in the city, the DRC is built mostly from reclaimed garbage from the city landfill just across the street. The DRC borders the Mondesa Township. (Nov. 16, 2024)In 2003, the Democratic Resettlement Community or DRC was officially declared a slum district of Swakopmund by the city administration. Originally founded as a temporary resettlement community for people waiting for subsidized housing in the city, the DRC is built mostly from reclaimed garbage from the city landfill just across the street. The DRC borders the Mondesa Township. (Nov. 16, 2024)Homes in the DRC, a temporary resettlement community for people waiting for subsidized housing in Swakopmund that’s built mostly of reclaimed garbage from the city landfill. The DRC is a settlement community of approximately 20,000 residents, comprising different ethnic Namibians, most of whom live without electricity, private toilets, or running water. The Herero community are among the inhabitants of the DRC. (Nov. 16, 2024)Homes in the DRC, a temporary resettlement community for people waiting for subsidized housing in Swakopmund that’s built mostly of reclaimed garbage from the city landfill. The DRC is a settlement community of approximately 20,000 residents, comprising different ethnic Namibians, most of whom live without electricity, private toilets, or running water. The Herero community are among the inhabitants of the DRC. (Nov. 16, 2024)Homes in the DRC, a temporary resettlement community for people waiting for subsidized housing in Swakopmund that’s built mostly of reclaimed garbage from the city landfill. The DRC is a settlement community of approximately 20,000 residents, comprising different ethnic Namibians, most of whom live without electricity, private toilets, or running water. The Herero community are among the inhabitants of the DRC. (Nov. 16, 2024)Homes in the DRC, a temporary resettlement community for people waiting for subsidized housing in Swakopmund that’s built mostly of reclaimed garbage from the city landfill. The DRC is a settlement community of approximately 20,000 residents, comprising different ethnic Namibians, most of whom live without electricity, private toilets, or running water. The Herero community are among the inhabitants of the DRC. (Nov. 16, 2024)The Hafeni Traditional Restaurant in the Mondesa Township on the outskirts of Swakopmund, Namibia, where we were treated to some of the local cuisine. (Nov. 16, 2024)The women cooking in the kitchen of the Hafeni Traditional Restaurant in the township of Mondesi on the outskirts of Swakpomund. (Nov. 16, 2024)The women cooking in the kitchen of the Hafeni Traditional Restaurant in the township of Mondesi on the outskirts of Swakpomund. (Nov. 16, 2024)Some of the food served at the Hafeni Traditional Restaurant in the township of Mondesi on the outskirts of Swakpomund. (Nov. 16, 2024)A group of incredible young singers entertained us, a cappella style, at the Hafeni Traditional Restaurant in the township of Mondesi on the outskirts of Swakpomund. (Nov. 16, 2024)
Day 43: Leaving Swakopmund; heading to Sesriem and more of the Namib Desert region.
It’s back into the heat and frying sun as we made our way, some seven hours of driving, through the Namib desert region to our desert campsite close to Sesriem Canyon for our early morning activities tomorrow, the dunes of Sossusvlei and the clay pans of Deadvlei both in the Namib-Naukluft National Park in Namibia.
The national park covers an area of 19,216 square miles or 49,768 square km creating the largest national park in Africa and the fourth largest in the world.It is a renowned park featuring the splendor of the Namib Desert.
After arriving at our campsite, I was absolutely in no condition to put up a tent in the heat so while the others were doing so, I found the restaurant/hang out area by the pool of our home base for the night, the Sesriem Campsite. I just couldn’t do one thing and thankfully I did not have to because our incredible leader, Laban, put up my tent for me. I’ve been so fortunate during this trip by getting help from the guides and my fellow travelers with the putting up and taking down of my tent. But today, Laban took it upon himself to do so for me and I am just so grateful. Today’s heat really hit me hard.
As this tour comes to an end, in less than a week, I am just so thankful for the guides, drivers, cooks and my fellow travelers.
Me at the “Tropic of Capricorn road sign” on our drive to our campsite at the Sesriem Canyon in Namibia. The sign is a physical marker placed along the road as an imaginary line of the latitude that marks the southernmost point on Earth where the sun can appear directly overhead. (Nov. 17, 2024)Desert views while driving along the C14 road through the Namib Desert near Arandis in Namibia from Swakopmund on our way to the Sesriem Canyon for the night. (Nov. 17, 2024)Desert views while driving along the C14 road through the Namib Desert near Arandis in Namibia from Swakopmund on our way to the Sesriem Canyon for the night. (Nov. 17, 2024)Stopped at the Solitaire Desert Camp Roadhouse in the Namib desert for lunch on our way to Windhoek Rural for lunch on our way to our desert campsite close to Sesriem Canyon. (Nov. 17, 2024)After lunch, we took the short walk to McGregor’s Bakery, at the Solitaire Desert Camp Roadhouse, a charming gem famous for its baked goods, like its apple pie, coffee drinks and ice cream. (Nov. 17, 2024)Back on the road with more gorgeous desert views of the Namib desert on our way to our desert campsite close to Sesriem Canyon. (Nov. 17, 2024)Views of the vast Namib desert landscape from our inside our truck on our way to our desert campsite close to the Sesriem Canyon. (Nov. 17, 2024)Views of the vast Namib desert landscape on our way to our desert campsite close to the Sesriem Canyon. (Nov. 17, 2024)
Enjoying drinks at the Sesriem Campsite’s restaurant with, from left: Courtney, Joyce, Julia, Samantha, Wadey, Chrissy and me. (Nov. 17, 2024)
Day 44: The Namib desert, Dune 45, Deadvlei and a restful night in the small town of Bethanie.
We woke up at our Sesriem campsite before the crack of dawn to welcome the sunrise at Dune 45, the star dune in the Sossusvlei area known for its large dunes of the Namib Desert in in the Namib-Naukluft National Park in Namibia.
After sunrise and our breakfast by Dune 45, we split up as a group taking a 4×4 through the Namib desert to the Deadvlei clay pans known for its dead trees.
The Namib-Naukluft National Park covers an area of 19,216 square miles (49,768 sq km) creating the largest national park in Africa and the fourth largest in the world.It is a renowned park featuring the splendor of the Namib Desert.
The Namib desert is a highlight all on its own and is recognized as the oldest desert in the world.It is characterized by massive sand dunes ranging in different shades of red and orange.
Let’s get hot and see some gorgeous dunes in the Namib desert.
Sunrise at Dune 45, the star large red sand dune in the Sossusvlei area of the Namib Desert in Namibia. Its name comes from being at the 45th kilometer off the road that connects the Sesriem gate (the entrance) and Sossusvlei, a salt and clay pan surrounded by high red dunes. Dune 45 stands over 558 feet or 170 meters and is composed of 5-million-year-old sand. These dunes, considered as the highest in the world, and are created by the brightly colored sands. (Nov. 18, 2024)Sunrise at Dune 45, the star large red sand dune in the Sossusvlei area of the Namib Desert in Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2023)Sunrise at Dune 45, the star large red sand dune in the Sossusvlei area of the Namib Desert in Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2023)Views around Dune 45 in the Sossusvlei area of the Namib Desert in Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)Views around Dune 45 in the Sossusvlei area of the Namib Desert in Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)Views around Dune 45 in the Sossusvlei area of the Namib Desert in Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)Views around Dune 45 in the Sossusvlei area of the Namib Desert in Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)Enjoying breakfast around Dune 45 in the Sossusvlei area of the Namib Desert in Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)Enjoying breakfast around Dune 45 in the Sossusvlei area of the Namib Desert in Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)My 4×4 jeep group on our way through the Namib desert to the Deadvlei, the white clay pan located in a valley between the dunes in the Namib-Naukluft Park in Namibia. Thanks Courtney for the photo. (Nov. 18, 2024)Driving through the Namib desert towards the Deadvlei, the white clay pan located in a valley between the dunes in the Namib-Naukluft Park in Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)Driving through the Namib desert towards the Deadvlei, the white clay pan located in a valley between the dunes in the Namib-Naukluft Park in Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)Views, as we’re driving through the desert, of the towering and tallest Big Daddy sand dune in the Namib Desert. (Nov. 18, 2024)Views, as we’re driving through the desert, of the towering and tallest Big Daddy sand dune in the Namib Desert. (Nov. 18, 2024)Beginning our 20-minute or so walk from the parking lot area to the clay pan of Deadvlei in the very hot Namib desert of the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)Taking the 20 minute long, hot walk to the clay pan Deadvlei in the hot sands of the Namib desert. (Nov. 18, 2024)Taking the 20 minute long, hot walk to the clay pan Deadvlei in the hot sands of the Namib desert. (Nov. 18, 2024)Julia and me encouraging one another to make it to the clay pan Deadvlei in the hot sands of the Namib desert. (Nov. 18, 2024)The Deadvlei, a clay pan characterized by dark, dead camel thorn trees contrasted against the white pan floor, among the sand dunes of the Namib desert in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)The Deadvlei, a clay pan characterized by dark, dead camel thorn trees contrasted against the white pan floor, among the sand dunes of the Namib desert in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)The Deadvlei, a clay pan characterized by dark, dead camel thorn trees contrasted against the white pan floor, among the sand dunes of the Namib desert in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)The Deadvlei, a clay pan characterized by dark, dead camel thorn trees contrasted against the white pan floor, among the sand dunes of the Namib desert in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)“Some 900 years ago the climate dried up, and dunes cut off Deadvlei from the river. It became too dry in Deadvlei for the trees to even decompose. They simply scorched black in the sun, monuments to their own destruction. The trees, now over 1000 years old, form a barren Forest,” from an informational board at Deadvlei in the Namib desert in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)“Some 900 years ago the climate dried up, and dunes cut off Deadvlei from the river. It became too dry in Deadvlei for the trees to even decompose. They simply scorched black in the sun, monuments to their own destruction. The trees, now over 1000 years old, form a barren Forest,” from an informational board at Deadvlei in the Namib desert in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)Stunning views of the red sand and dune on the walk back to the parking lot area from the clay pay Deadvlei in the Namib desert. (Nov. 18, 2024)Stunning views of the red sand and dune on the walk back to the parking lot area from the clay pay Deadvlei in the Namib desert. (Nov. 18, 2024)Our campsite for the night was at the Bethanie Guest House in the small town of Bethanie, Namibia. I decided to upgrade instead of pitch a tent for the night. (Nov. 18, 2024)Inside my room at the Bethanie Guest House in the small town of Bethanie, Namibia, where I upgraded from my tent for the night. (Nov. 18, 2024)My shower at the Bethanie Guest House in the small town of Bethanie, Namibia, where I upgraded from my tent for the night. (Nov. 18, 2024)Dinner at our Bethanie Guest House campsite in Namibia. (Nov. 18, 2024)
Day 45: Morning Drama, continued driving in the vast Namib Desert heat to Fish River Canyon.
Woke up leisurely in my comfy and cozy little bedroom/bathroom combo at the Bethanie Guest House in Bethanie, Namibia.
I actually laid in bed this morning after I woke up getting in some reading, just like I do at home. It was glorious! I miss this and I’m excited to get back to this in a few days, four to be exact when I get home.
Arrangements are being made for a young man to leave the group. We were supposed to leave Bethanie at 9:00 this morning but because the guide, Laban, was working with the young man to get him situated, we didn’t end up leaving until after 10:30 am.
So glad we only have a few days left. The drama of this situation, which I will not go into, has permeated the whole group just as much as the heat and dust have.
So, let’s make our way through the heat to our campsite at the Hobas Camp Fish River, a campground situated near the Fish River Canyon, one of the largest canyons in the world and located within the Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park in southern Namibia.
Driving through the Namib desert along the southern border of the Namib-Naukluft National Park on our way to the Hobas Camp Fish River, a campground situated near the Fish River Canyon, one of the largest canyons in the world and located within the Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park in southern Namibia. (Nov. 19, 2024)Driving through the Namib desert along the southern border of the Namib-Naukluft National Park on our way to the Hobas Camp Fish River, a campground situated near the Fish River Canyon, one of the largest canyons in the world and located within the Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park in southern Namibia. (Nov. 19, 2024)Driving through the Namib desert along the southern border of the Namib-Naukluft National Park on our way to the Hobas Camp Fish River, a campground situated near the Fish River Canyon, one of the largest canyons in the world and located within the Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park in southern Namibia. (Nov. 19, 2024)The private vineyards of red and white wine grapes on our way to the Hobas Camp Fish River, a campground situated near the Fish River Canyon, one of the largest canyons in the world and located within the Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park in southern Namibia. (Nov. 19, 2024)Privately owned palm tree farm used to make gin to the Hobas Camp Fish River, a campground situated near the Fish River Canyon, one of the largest canyons in the world and located within the Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park in southern Namibia. (Nov. 19, 2024)Gravel-looking canyons on the way to the Hobas Camp Fish River, a campground situated near the Fish River Canyon, one of the largest canyons in the world and located within the Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park in southern Namibia. (Nov. 19, 2024)Tents up at our home base for the night, the Hobas Camp Fish River is located in the Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park in southern Namibia, situated very close to the Fish River Canyon, one of the largest canyons in the world. (Nov. 19, 2024)Tents up for our home base for the night, the Hobas Camp Fish River is located in the Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park in southern Namibia, situated very close to the Fish River Canyon, one of the largest canyons in the world. (Nov. 19, 2024)The bar/restaurant and poolside area at our campsite for the night, which I spent time in cooling off, the Hobas Camp Fish River is located in the Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park in southern Namibia, situated very close to the Fish River Canyon, one of the largest canyons in the world. (Nov. 19, 2024)While most of our group went to hike to see the Fish River Canyon, Julia, Courtney and I stayed behind at our Hobas Campsite to chill. And, good thing because we had a bit of a wind or sand storm that knocked down several of our tents so Julia, Courtney and I went around the campsite trying to secure the tents that collapsed, like this one. Thanks Julia for the photo. (Nov. 19, 2024)Our campsite for the night at the Hobas Camp Fish River in the Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park in southern Namibia. (Nov. 19, 2024)
Day 46: Growing grapes in the desert and camping by the Orange River in Namibia.
Trying to sleep while the nearby solar generator sounded like a hovering helicopter all night. Then there was another sand storm and even a little rain last night at our Hobas Camp Fish River campsite in Namibia. The floor or ground of my tent has this slight layer of sand. And it was still rather warm at night. But, like I’ve been reminded, when I moan about the heat, I’m told it’s because we’re in the desert.
I’ve noticed that I’ve gotten more flexible and even a bit stronger on this trip. At first I brought one of the camp fold-up chairs inside my tent to mainly help me get up off the ground, but as I slowly built the strength and flexibility, I’ve been getting up on my own.
Even though an upgrade was available, I decided not to because I had to clean out my locker so the truck could get washed and cleaned out from all the sand. And the sand was everywhere. Plus, I would have had to take all my stuff up hill and probably make several trips to get to room. So I decided to pitch my tent instead. Julia and Jill helped me and within no time, it was up and I was able to empty out everything from the truck.
Here’s to our last night in Namibia with one more night of sleeping in my tent.
Continuing through the Namib desert from our Fish River Canyon campsite to the Felix Unite Provenance Camp site along the Orange River for our last night in Namibia. (Nov. 20, 2024)Continuing through the Namib desert from our Fish River Canyon campsite to the Felix Unite Provenance Camp site along the Orange River for our last night in Namibia. (Nov. 20, 2024)Continuing through the Namib desert from our Fish River Canyon campsite to the Felix Unite Provenance Camp site along the Orange River for our last night in Namibia. (Nov. 20, 2024)Coming into views of the acres of vineyards on our way to the Felix Unite Provenance Camp site along the Orange River for our last night in Namibia. (Nov. 20, 2024)Coming into views of the acres of vineyards on our way to the Felix Unite Provenance Camp site along the Orange River for our last night in Namibia. (Nov. 20, 2024)Coming into views of the acres of vineyards on our way to the Felix Unite Provenance Camp site along the Orange River for our last night in Namibia. (Nov. 20, 2024)These are the homes of the wine workers who work in the southern Namibia vineyards live in poverty in these corrugated or reed-made homes without basic services like electricity, sanitation and running water Farm workers in Namibia live in high levels of poverty. (Nov. 20, 2024)These are the homes of the wine workers who work in the southern Namibia vineyards live in poverty in these corrugated or reed-made homes without basic services like electricity, sanitation and running water Farm workers in Namibia live in high levels of poverty. (Nov. 20, 2024)These are the homes of the wine workers who work in the southern Namibia vineyards live in poverty in these corrugated or reed-made homes without basic services like electricity, sanitation and running water Farm workers in Namibia live in high levels of poverty. (Nov. 20, 2024)These are the homes of the wine workers who work in the southern Namibia vineyards live in poverty in these corrugated or reed-made homes without basic services like electricity, sanitation and running water Farm workers in Namibia live in high levels of poverty. (Nov. 20, 2024)These are the homes of the wine workers who work in the southern Namibia vineyards live in poverty in these corrugated or reed-made homes without basic services like electricity, sanitation and running water Farm workers in Namibia live in high levels of poverty. (Nov. 20, 2024)Views of the Orange River from our Felix Unite Provenance Camp site where we spent our last night in Namibia before crossing the border in the morning into South Africa. The Orange River is responsible for transporting diamonds and creating the deposits that can be found along the Namibian coast. (Nov. 20, 2024)Views of the Orange River from our Felix Unite Provenance Camp site where we spent our last night in Namibia before crossing the border in the morning into South Africa. The Orange River is responsible for transporting diamonds and creating the deposits that can be found along the Namibian coast. (Nov. 20, 2024)
South Africa
Day 47: Crossing the border into South Africa from Namibia for my last night on the African Continent.
I feel so relaxed and content. I’m almost at the end of this journey. And what an amazing journey it’s been. But it’s not completely over yet.
It didn’t take long to get to the border of South Africa from our Felix Unite campsite in Namibia, around 15 minutes or so.
Exiting Namibia was quick and without issues but getting into South Africa was a bit more time consuming because after our passports were stamped to enter the country, Laban had to collect the passports for a last inspection by the International Police. Evidently, a previous tour member ended up being detained at the border of South Africa because he was wanted in Canada and the U.S. for drug smuggling.
Thankfully, none of us had any issues at the border crossing into South Africa as we continued on to the town of Klawer to spend our last night of the tour at the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge for a great evening of fun and wine tasting.
Here’s to raising a glass of South African wine and the coming to the end of an incredible African journey.
Packing up our tents at the Felix Unite Provenance Camp for our last day in Namibia before crossing the border this morning into South Africa. (Nov. 21, 2024)Packing up our tents at the Felix Unite Provenance Camp for our last day in Namibia before crossing the border this morning into South Africa. (Nov. 21, 2024)Getting my things from inside of my tent so I can take it down at the Felix Unite Provenance Camp for our last day in Namibia before crossing the border this morning into South Africa. (Nov. 21, 2024)On the truck early in the morning as we make our way from Namibia into South Africa for my last night in the African Continent. (Nov. 21, 2024)At the border crossing of Noordoewer, Namibia into South Africa. (Nov. 21, 2024)A beautiful day for a beautiful drive through the Western Cape and wine country of South Africa on our way to our last campsite of the tour, the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge, nestled among the wine farms at the foot of the Cedarberg mountain range in the Klawer wine region. (Nov. 21, 2024)A beautiful day for a beautiful drive through the Western Cape and wine country of South Africa on our way to our last campsite of the tour, the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge, nestled among the wine farms at the foot of the Cedarberg mountain range in the Klawer wine region. (Nov. 21, 2024)A beautiful day for a beautiful drive through the Western Cape and wine country of South Africa on our way to our last campsite of the tour, the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge, nestled among the wine farms at the foot of the Cedarberg mountain range in the Klawer wine region. (Nov. 21, 2024)Putting up my tent for the last time at the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge, nestled among the wine farms at the foot of the Cedarberg mountain range in the Klawer wine region of South Africa. (Nov. 21, 2024)Our campground at the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge in Klawer, South Africa. (Nov. 21, 2024)Our campground at the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge in Klawer, South Africa. (Nov. 21, 2024)Our campground and my tent, to the right) at the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge in Klawer, South Africa. (Nov. 21, 2024)It was a great camp site with clean bathrooms and showers that had a great view at the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge in Klawer, South Africa. (Nov. 21, 2024)Views of the African countryside and wineries from the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge in Klawer, South Africa. (Nov. 21, 2024)The Highlanders Campsite & Lodge in Klawer, South Africa. (Nov. 21, 2024)Wine tasting at the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge in Klawer, South Africa. (Nov. 21, 2024)Wine tasting at the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge in Klawer, South Africa. (Nov. 21, 2024)This Pinotage was one my favorites during our wine tasting at the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge in Klawer, South Africa. (Nov. 21, 2024)I’m not a Vermouth drinker but this African Vermouth was pretty tasty going down at wine tasting at the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge in Klawer, South Africa. (Nov. 21, 2024)Having one last toast with some of our group members during our wine tasting and snacks at the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge in Klawer, South Africa. From left: Julia, Kate, Chris, me, Wadey, Chrissy, Emily, Trudy, Johannes, Courtney, Samantha and Joyce. (Nov. 21, 2024)Crackers and cheese to go with our wine tasting at the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge in Klawer, South Africa. Julia bought us another round of goodies to eat so some of us, including myself, bought extra bottles of wine. (Nov. 21, 2024)Feeling a bit buzzed from all the wine since several of us (including myself) bought extra bottles, but it was nice sitting around the campfire to end our night, and for me, our brief stay in South Africa. (Nov. 21, 2024)
Day 48: Ending in Cape Town, South Africa and ready for my evening flight home.
Got up at 5:00 am, took down my tent (with help from Daniela) and enjoyed the beautiful morning vineyard views, at the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge in Klawer,during my last morning not just in South Africa, but this incredibly captivating African journey. Taking in the joy of the present moment and yet content it is coming to an end. We left the winery campsite at 7:30 am to make the close to five hour drive to Cape Town, where this African Adventure came to an end.
When we first met Laban, our Intrepid tour leader, in Zanzibar, he asked us all what we hoped to accomplish, see or do. My only response at the time, in Zanzibar, was to make it to Cape Town. I did more than just survive this cross country African adventure, I conquered my fears of putting up and taking down my tent, getting on and off the ground, the mother sun during the most, long,hot, bumpy drives and any notion of defeat, I conquered that too.
The thought of actually being able to do this trip to the end seemed daunting. Truth is, the whole trip was daunting. I honestly wasn’t sure I had the physical or emotional energy to get to Cape Town, the end of a 48-day trek through eight East and South African countries. But I did and I’m physically and emotionally stronger and wiser for it.
I would not have survived the putting up and taking down of my tent withoutLaban and Shi’s help along with the help of my travel companions, especially Daniela. Being around people who were helpful and caring everyday added to the beauty of the African landscape.
Here’s to the end of a memorably captivating once in a lifetime journey with an awesome leader, fund travel mates, stunning landscapes, the African culture and its enduring people. Thank you Africa for exceeding my expectations.
Taking down my tent for the last time on this African journey here at the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge in Klawer, South Africa. (Nov. 22, 2024)My folded tent all ready to be stuffed into its bag and ready for its next adventure. I hope the next person who enters gem will feel as safe and protected as I did while sleeping in it. (Nov. 22, 2024)Getting ready to get on our trusty Intrepid truck for the last time as we make our way to the ending point of our African journey in Cape Town, South Africa. (Nov. 22, 2024)One last look around the Highlanders Campsite & Lodge in Klawer before departing for our five hour or so drive to Cape Town. (Nov. 22, 2024)The stunning morning drive into Cape Town began with these beautiful cloudy skies over the Citrusdal-Kromme Valley vineyard landscapes along the N7 highway. (Nov. 22, 2024)The stunning morning drive into Cape Town began with these beautiful cloudy skies over the Citrusdal-Kromme Valley vineyard landscapes along the N7 highway. (Nov. 22, 2024)The stunning morning drive into Cape Town began with these beautiful cloudy skies over the Citrusdal-Kromme Valley vineyard landscapes along the N7 highway. (Nov. 22, 2024)The stunning morning drive into Cape Town began with these beautiful cloudy skies over the Citrusdal-Kromme Valley vineyard landscapes along the N7 highway. (Nov. 22, 2024)The morning drive into Cape Town began with these beautiful cloudy skies over the Citrusdal-Kromme Valley vineyard landscapes along the N7 highway. (Nov. 22, 2024)Getting into Cape Town, South Africa, the end point of my incredible African journey. (Nov. 22, 2024)Getting into Cape Town, South Africa, the end point of my incredible African journey. (Nov. 22, 2024)Getting into Cape Town, South Africa, the end point of my incredible African journey. (Nov. 22, 2024)Getting into Cape Town, South Africa, the end point of my incredible African journey. (Nov. 22, 2024)Getting into Cape Town, South Africa, the end point of my incredible African journey. (Nov. 22, 2024)Getting into Cape Town, South Africa, the end point of my incredible African journey. (Nov. 22, 2024)Finding a place to park the truck in Cape Town, South Africa, the end point of my incredible African journey. (Nov. 22, 2024)Finding a place to park the truck in Cape Town, South Africa, the end point of my incredible African journey. (Nov. 22, 2024)We could not park by the entrance of our end point hotel, the Never@Home hostel in Cape Town, so Sam, our driver parked at a gas station just a couple of minutes walk away. It was a bit chaotic as we gathered all our things, tried to say our good-byes and head our separate ways. Some stayed at the Never@Home hostel but others called Ubers or walked to their hotels from here. (Nov. 22, 2024)We could not park by the entrance of our end point hotel, the Never@Home hostel in Cape Town, so Sam, our driver parked at a gas station just a couple of minutes walk away. It was a bit chaotic as we gathered all our things, tried to say our good-byes and head our separate ways. Some stayed at the Never@Home hostel but others called Ubers or walked to their hotels from here. (Nov. 22, 2024)Getting all our things off of the truck for the very last time here in Cape Town at the end point of our African adventure. (Nov. 22, 2024)Even though good-byes are not my fortay, I did get chance to say good-bye to some including these three, Laban, Daniela and Shi. (Nov. 22, 2024)Our end point stay, the Never@Home hostel, except I’m not staying. Cape Town is a lively and beautiful city that I’ve been to before which is why I’m not staying and why I booked my flight home once the tour ended here. (Nov. 22, 2024)A kind of last supper at the Fat Cactus in Cape Town with just some of my tour mates before we make our final departures. From left: Me, Chris, Wadey, Johannes, Kate, Jill and the amazing Daniela. (Nov. 22, 2024)Missing my Mexican food and margaritas at Mia’s Tex Mex at home in Dallas. This Margarita did not come close to tasting as good as Mia’s but I still enjoyed it here at the Fat Cactus in Cape Town with some of my travel companions from our cross country African journey. (Nov. 22, 2024)Had these chorizo nachos at the Fat Cactus in Cape Town. (Nov. 22, 2024)The cloudy morning turned into a beautiful as I walked back from lunch at the Fat Cactus to the Never@Home hostel to get myself cleaned up and packed up for my flight home. (Nov. 22, 2024)Although I didn’t have a room at the end point hotel, the Never@Home hostel, all I really needed was a place to take a shower and organize my stuff, which worked out perfectly. It was the little outdoor gym with a shower that was private and turned out to be the best hot shower for my plane ride home. I didn’t initially have an outdoor shower in mind, but the area was covered, the shower room was private, it was free and I was thankful to be clean and feel clean. (Nov. 22, 2024)I had clothes washed in Swakopmund, Namibia, and set aside clean clothes for the trip home. Good thing I put them into a separate bag because sand and dust got into my truck locker, actually everyone’s lockers, and left its mess everywhere inside my green duffel bag. No matter, the green duffel was getting checked at the airport and I carried on two backpacks. (Nov. 22, 2024)My Uber driver was ready to go before the 5:30 pm scheduled time and so was I. I was going to have to wait somewhere, at the hostel or at the airport. I chose the airport. I heard that Cape Town traffic could be difficult to get through and I did not want to take any chances. And, I’m glad I did because, although it wasn’t bad, we did encounter traffic but we had plenty of time to get through it. (Nov. 22, 2024)After standing in a very brief line to check my green duffel bag, I was asked if I had any electronic chargers in my bag and I did. I was asked to remove it and to place it into my carry-on backpacks, which I did. Done and done. Made it through security and passport control in literally no time, with no questions asked about my stay on the African Continent. Goodbye Africa, goodbye South Africa and goodbye, for now, to people I traveled with and got to know along the way. (Nov. 22, 2024)
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