Kenya: Nairobi the Capital and Largest City

Kenya: Country #79 on my Countdown to 100 U.N. Countries by the time I turn 70 in 2026.

The last time I slept was Thursday morning when I woke up in the comfort of my bed in Dallas to not only get last minute things done but to make my way to the airport and begin my African Continent journey of East and South Africa.

After a tumultuous journey of a missed flight, re-schedules and very close calls, I made it to Nairobi at 7:40 a.m. Saturday morning. The lines were long at Passport Control but efforts were made to move the lines quickly. Since I had my luggage with me, I did not have to wait at the crowded and small carousels to get mine. Before getting off my Qatar flight from London to Doha, an announcement was made about unlawfulness of bringing in single use plastics into the country. I knew this, but was still concerned as I put my luggage through on the X-ray scanners. No muss no fuss, I took my duffel bag and other gear and made my way to and through the exit. And there was Rose, holding up an Intrepid Travel sign with my name on it. Such a beautiful sight!

From the Nairobi Airport, I was brought to my hotel for the next 2 nights, the Hotel Boulevard Nairobi. Got checked it about 8:35 am and had a few minutes to spare before my scheduled 9:00 am walking tour or Nairobi with Intrepid Urban Adventure. Yes, that’s correct, a 9:00 am walking tour without any real sleep for 35 hours and was ready to go on the tour. I call it an adrenaline overload packed with excitement and sheer joy of being in Nairobi.

Nairobi City County is one of the 47 counties of Kenya. With an estimated population of 5,454,000 in 2024, it is the third-smallest in area of the counties, yet the most populous one. It also serves as the capital of Kenya.

From 1895 until 1963, the area that later became modern Kenya was under British colonial rule as part of British East Africa.

In 1947, Jomo Kenyatta was elected President of the Kenya African Union, through which he lobbied for independence from British colonial rule, attracting widespread indigenous support but animosity from white settlers.

The Union Jack of the British was replaced by the black, red and green flag of the new Kenya nation. This followed the first all inclusive elections on May 27, 1963. A year later Kenya was declared a Republic.

Join me on my first full day in Nairobi as we traverse just a small portion of this vibrant city.

And on top of this, I got my Early Voting Ballot sent to Texas to make my one vote count in this incredibly important coming USA election.

Here’s Nairobi.

Me on the rooftop of the Kenyatta International Convention Centre in Nairobi with truly beautiful views of the city. Tired but excited to explore. And, even though I was tired, the walking helped keep me going. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Faith with Intrepid Travel helped with my transfer from the airport to the hotel. She waited for me at the international exit of the Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (NBO) in Nairobi. It was such a pleasure to see her kind face and finally arrive in Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

The Hotel Boulevard Nairobi where I am staying and where both my day walking tour of Nairobi begins and the meet up and beginning point of my Intrepid Travel tour from Nairobi to Cape Town. Turns out there are a number of Intrepid overland tours starting from here too. (Oct. 5, 2024)

My room at the Hotel Boulevard Nairobi where I came in, used the bathroom, pulled out my day bag threw some stuff in it and met my day walking tour group and Intrepid Urban Adventure guide for a walk around Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

The Kenya Broadcasting Corportion or KBC office just down the street from my hotel, Hotel Boulevard Nairobi, is the state-run media organisation of Kenya. This smacks of dictatorship to me. (Oct. 5, 2024)

I actually took this photo of the University of Nairobi as we were driving to the hotel, not knowing later on my walking tour that photos are not allowed. Along with the university, photos are also not allowed of government buildings. And, most places, like this one, along with even commercial establishments have private security guards at their gates or doors. (Oct. 5, 2024)

On our group day tour of Nairobi. This tour with Intrepid’s Urban Adventures was not a part of the Nairobi to Cape Town overland truck tour. Kenya is just the starting point for the tour because with only a scheduled tour night here, we immediately cross the border into Tanzania. Taking this walking tour would have been my only opportunity to really see the city with a guide. The morning was cool and cloudy but by the afternoon, the sun had come out and it was much warmer. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Views of colorful Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Views of downtown Nairobi and the beautiful purple-looking Jacaranda trees along the median. (Oct. 5, 2024)

The Kenyatta International Convention Centre (KICC) is an iconic building in Kenya and on the 28th floor, provides aerial 360 views of Nairobi from its rooftop. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Walking into the entrance of the iconic Kenyatta International Convention Centre in Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Walking into the entrance of the iconic Kenyatta International Convention Center in Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Views of the Central Business District (CBD) and the Maasai Markets of Nairobi from the rooftop of the iconic Kenyatta International Convention Center. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Got my FB post done on Nairobi while also keeping hydrated and getting in a nap in my room at the Hotel Boulevard Nairobi before our Intrepid group meeting. (Oct. 6, 2024)

The 6:00 pm Intrepid welcome to Kenya group meeting where we provided insurance and emergency contact information while also receiving information on what to expect during the coming days to Zanzibar along with a few don’ts.
Some of those don’ts include not giving people money, including children because it creates an expectation and dependency. Intrepid has a foundation that can help. Don’t be late and definitely don’t feed the animals.
There’s a total of 19 people on this portion of the tour to Zanzibar, plus one arriving late, with three crew members. (Oct. 6, 2024)

The crew packing up the truck. For the Zanzibar leg of the journey, Jacob is our leader/guide, Jimmy is our driver and Jeremy is our cook. We have individual lockers to the back of the truck for our luggage. (Oct. 6, 2024)

Views of the Nairobi CBD and the colorful Maasai Market from the rooftop of the Kenyatta International Convention Centter. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Views of the large and colorful Maasai Markets in Nairobi’s Central Business District from the rooftop of the Kenyatta International Convention Center. (Oct. 5, 2024)

In the foreground of Nairobi’s Central Business District is the Government House, now referred to as the State House, it was built in 1907 to serve as the official residence of the governor of British East Africa when Kenya was a colony within the British Empire. This was taken a top the Kenyatta International Convention Center’s rooftop with 360 degree views of Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

A closer view of the Government House, now referred to as the State House, it was built in 1907 to serve as the official residence of the governor of British East Africa when Kenya was a colony within the British Empire. (Oct. 5, 2024)

More views of Nairobi’s CBS from a top the Kenyatta International Convention Center’s rooftop. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Views of the Central Business District in Nairobi with its beautiful spattering of the purple-ish Jacaranda trees as seen from the rooftop of the Kenyatta International Convention Center. Oct. 5, 2024)

The Times Tower (left) commonly known as the New Central Bank Tower, is the fourth tallest building in Kenya and the CBK Pension Towers in Nairobi’s Central Business District is the the Central Bank of Kenya (CBK) and one of its most iconic skyscrapers. (Oct. 5, 2024)

A view of the Parliament Building with the clock tower from the Kenyatta International Convention Centre in Nairobi. We walked past the building but it is prohibited to take photos of the building. We were told that if security guards see you taking photos they will tell you to delete them and/or it could mean serious consequences for the tour group leader who knows better. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Here’s a closer look at the Parliament Buildings, the seat of the Kenyan Parliament which consists of two houses. The upper house is the Senate, and the lower house is the National Assembly. This past June, protesters had demonstrated peacefully to demand that lawmakers vote against the controversial 2024 Finance Bill. The bill, was approved by lawmakers and expected to raise taxes for the people by $2.7 billion. After the bill was approved, on a 195 to 106 vote count, some protesters stormed the Parliament Buildings resulting in at least five deaths and a number of injuries when police opened fire on the Kenyan protesters. President William Ruto declined to sign the bill after the assault and on June 28, rejected the Finance Bill and ordered a 346 billion Kenyan shilling budget cut. Some of the things taxed on the previous bill included bread, sugar cane, imported eggs, onions and potatoes along with taxing financial services and foreign exchange transactions. (Oct. 5, 2024)

A statue of Jomo Kenyatta, “Father of the Nation, First President and Command and Chief of the Armed Forces of the Republic of Kenya.”The statue is close to the Kenyatta International Convention Centre and on our way to the Maasai Markets in Nairobi’s Central Business District. Kenyatta was a controversial figure. Prior to Kenyan independence, many of its white settlers regarded him as an agitator and malcontent, although across Africa he gained widespread respect as an anti-colonialist. (Oct. 5, 2024)

A close-up of the state of Jomo Kenyatta, “Father of the Nation, First President and Command and Chief of the Armed Forces of the Republic of Kenya.” He played a significant role in the transformation of Kenya from a colony of the British Empire into an independent republic. Ideologically an African nationalist and a conservative, he led the Kenya African National Union (KANU) party from 1961 until his death in 1978. Kenya finally gained independence on December 12, 1963. The following year, Kenya became a Republic with Kenyatta as its first President. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Before even entering the Maasai Market, we were greeted by community guides who basically stick with you throughout the market. My guy was John and never passed an opportunity to ask me if I like this or that. In all honesty, the African arts and crafts at the market are quite beautiful and all I wanted to do was look. (Oct. 5, 2024)

The beautiful African arts and crafts at the Maasai Market in Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

A close-up of the African masks for sale at the Maasai Market in Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

I ended up buying these two bracelets at the Maasai Market in Nairobi. John, the person following me around, as like the market sales person or negotiator, kept asking me if I liked this or that. And, if so, he would give me a very good price. Along with John, the different shop keepers also encouraged me to come in and see what they have. I couldn’t just walk and look on my own and I found that rather off-putting and disappointing. So the good price John quoted me for these two bracelets was initially 5500 Kenyan Shilling, roughly $42 USD. Way too much! Then he went down to 4000 Shilling, roughly $30 USD. And, I said no. So, he asked me for my best offer and I said 1500 Shilling, roughly almost $12 USD. He went to 2500 Shilling, roughly $19 USD and I said no, so he accepted my 1500 Shilling offer. John did not seem very pleased with me but I actually had no plans to start buying anything on my first day with so many days ahead to go on my journey. And, the only reason I could bargain so easily is because thanks to T-Mobile I have cellular service in Kenya and I could easily convert the Shilling amount to the USD amount on my iPhone. (Oct. 5, 2024)

The entrance to the August 7th Memorial Park where on Aug. 7, 1998, the United States embassies in Nairobi, Kenya and Dar es Salaam, Tanzania were attacked. More than 220 people were killed in nearly simultaneous truck bomb explosions in these two East African capital cities. The Park consists of a Memorial Garden, Memorial Wall and small Museum. (Oct. 5, 2024)

The Memorial Wall at the August 7th Memorial Park in Nairobi commemorates the 218 people who died- with each name inscribed on a granite slab. The park was built as a memorial to the innocent people killed at this location where the American Embassy once stood in Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

The exhibit hall of the small museum provides news accounts and images from the bombing attacks at the U.S. Embassies in Nairobi and Dar es Salam at the August 7th Memorial Park in Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

A photo at the August 7th Memorial Park in Nairobi showing rescue teams from around the world working day and night for four days to find survivors and recover the bodies of those who died at the U.S. Embassy attacks at the hands of Al-Qaeda. (Oct. 5, 2024)

The busy street life in Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

The entrance to the Kenya National Archives in Nairobi is said to house public records and archives but what we saw was an exhibition displaying statues, jewelry, wood carvings and a variety of crafts and historical artifacts important to the history Kenya. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Inside the Kenya National Archives in Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

A display of the lost art of African metal casting, using gold, brass, bronze, etc. at the Kenya National Archives in Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

This wooden artifact with two hands folding to protect the child from the owl (bad omen at the Kenya National Archives in Nairobi was use by the Meru in Kenya. (Oct. 5, 2024)

An African heritage jewelry display based on traditional designs inside the Kenya National Archives in Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

A wall of weaponry including shields and swords of the Maasai at the Kenya National Archives in Nairobi. The legendary prowesser the Maasai warriors was known and feared throughout East Africa. Traders had to pay the Maasai with large quantities of beads, cluth rud imported iron spears to cross their lands. (Oct. 5, 2024)

On the wall of weaponry are shields and in the upper left hand corner, a woman’s beaded leather skirt at the Kenya National Archives in Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

A close-up of a Maasai shield at the Kenya National Archives in Nairobi. Maasai shielas ora usually made from buffalo hide and decorated with natura vegetable dyes. (Oct. 5, 2024)

A Maasai woman’s beaded cowhide bag worn under the arm to discourage thieves at the Kenya National Archives in Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Walking along the local buses to take the bus to our next and final stop, an authentic Kenyan lunch at Kilimanjaro Restaurant in Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Inside one of the colorful and cramped local buses of Nairobi. Luckily, it turned out to be a much warmer afternoon than in the morning, but it was not an excruciatingly hot day and we only had two stops to go. Evidently the young people like these buses because of the music, which for me was extremely loud. (Oct. 5, 2024)

And, the communal lunch is served at the Kilimanjaro Restaurant in Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

The huge platter included three varieties of rice, chicken, beef, barbecue and sauces, in various levels of heat, for dipping at the Kilimanjaro Restaurant in Nairobi. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Our final event of our Nairobi walking tour was a late group lunch at Kilimanjaro Restaurant in Nairobi. I unfortunately don’t remember all the names of the group members but it was a pleasure spending the day with you. Even though I was hungry and ate bits of food, it was delicious, but I think being tired was more tired than hungry. (Oct. 5, 2024)

My emailed ballot, which I printed out, filled in and put my completed ballot in the postage marked envelope, as instructed, along with the signature page that also had to be returned but not in the same in the same envelope as the ballot…all before leaving home. In order to get the emailed ballot before my trip, I went to the Dallas County Elections Department to seek assistance on the best way to vote. Emailing me the ballot, and others who live or travel internationally, was the fastest and most convenient way. And, I could only mail my ballot from a foreign country or take it to the U.S. Embassy, which in my case, was closed and had encouraged international voters to get their ballots in by Oct. 4 to be assured it would reach its final destination before Election Day. So, I was a day late and the office closed at 14:00 or 2:00 pm. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Getting to the DHL office was the only way I could ensure my ballot would get to the Dallas County Elections Department in time for my vote to count. I could have dropped it off at the U.S. Embassy in Nairobi but it was closed, so FedEx or DHL was my backup plans. It cost me 4,983.70 in Kenyan Shillings, roughly $38 USD for my ballot to get to the Dallas County Elections Department’s Early Voting Clerk by Wednesday. More than enough time for my ballot to count. With my transit troubles getting to Nairobi, I was concerned that I would never get my ballot off in time because FedEx and DHL offices closed at 16:00 or 4:00 pm on Saturdays and completely closed on Sundays. (Oct. 5, 2024)

But I could not have voted if it were not for the yeoman effort Eric, my Intrepid Urban Adventures guide, made to help me get my ballot to a FedEx or DHL office. And, to the tour group for being so understanding and patient. We first stopped at a FedEx office during the walking tour but I had to have Kenyan Shillings, which I did not have. And, it would have cost me 6000 Kenyan Shillings, roughly $46 USD and I was told this way the least expensive way to get my ballot to the U.S. I was disappointed that we could not get it done at the small one-person Fed Ex office but in reflection, not only was the DHL office more legit-looking and less expensive, it only took credit cards…no cash. Anyway, I was able to get Kenyan Shillings at the Kenyatta International Convention Centre in Nairobi where I took this selfie of Eric and myself. Thank you Eric so much for your help. This election is just too important not to cast my vote and now it is safely on its way to the Dallas County Elections Department. (Oct. 5, 2024)

Day 1: Took it easy, got my FB post done for my short time in Kenya, met my Intrepid guide, and fellow travelers as my 48 days of Kenya to Cape Town tour begins.

Last night, after my Nairobi walking tour, I texted my family that all is well, took a nice hot shower around 6 pm and fell asleep shortly after that. A good six hours later, after midnight, I was awake. I believe my internal sleep clock is completely turned around and will require a few days to correct itself.

So I decided to get up around and reorganize my packing for how I’m going to live on and off an overland truck for the next 48 days begins today.

Had a delicious breakfast where I’m staying at the Hotel Boulevard Nairobi, made sure to drink plenty of bottled water because tap water is not recommended and even got in a 2-hour nap before meeting my Intrepid guide, Jacob, and group.

This long trip to Cape Town is actually broken up into, at least 3, I think, different group tours. This portion of my tour, with this group and crew members, ends in Zanzibar where I will say goodbye to several people leaving and hello to new travelers starting their journey and coming on board.

Like myself, there are several people, who will continue on to Cape Town.

It’s a slow and quiet official start of the Kenya to Cape Town tour with much to look forward to.