Splendid Spain: Cádiz, Enjoying the Food and the City

Gerri and I took the 3.5 hour bus ride from Ronda to Cádiz. The bus driver was a pretty impatient and inconsiderate jerk but the views and the small towns we stopped at and passed through were delightful.

Cádiz was a new experience for me in Spain that I was definitely looking forward to and it did not disappoint. I know most people come to Cádiz for the beach, but for me, just enjoyed walking around the city.

The city of Cádiz was founded in 1100 B.C. by Phoenician sailors over the ruins of the one that the people of Tyre had built. They built a port and a temple, where supposedly Hercules´ashes were kept.

Cádiz, Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited city, was founded by the Phoenician’s, dating back some 3500 years ago. Due to its strategic port location, Christopher Columbus set sail from Cádiz on two of his voyages to the New World.

Since we were spending four nights in Cádiz, at a comfortable 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom Airbnb two story apartment with an outdoor balcony in a rather centralized location, Gerri and I were both able to go out at our leisure and rest when we needed to.

The only thing we had planned for our first day in Cádiz was an 8:00 pm food walking tour with Poncho Tours which turned out to be so much less than expected but at least the food was good. Gerri wasn’t feeling good so even though our guide, Ana, said she would add a third place to the food walking tour, we decided that it was time to head back to the apartment for Gerri to get some rest.

Here’s to our first day in Cádiz.

Gerri and me enjoying a glass of white wine at the Taberna Casa Manteca, a typical tavern in the heart of the Barrio de La Viña in the center of Cádiz. This was the first of our two restaurants during our Cadiz Food Tour with Poncho Tour…a company I would not recommend and I would not recommend this tour. The cost of the food tour, which was more than $60 USD for each of us, was absolutely not worth the money we paid for what we got on this food tour. Plus the company advertised four places but we were told it was only two places, even though our guide, Ana, was willing to include a third place but unfortunately by then Gerri was not feeling well. (Aug. 20, 2024)

The entrance to our 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom Airbnb apartment along Calle De Flamenco in Cádiz. A great location right off of Calle Nuevo. (Aug. 20, 2024)

The Calle De Flamenco in Cádiz, where our 2-bedroom Airbnb apartment was located right off of Calle Nuevo. (Aug. 20, 2024)

My downstairs bedroom at our 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom Airbnb apartment along Calle De Flamenco in Cádiz. (Aug. 20, 2024)

My downstairs bathroom at our 2-bedroom, 2-bath Airbnb apartment along Calle De Flamenco in Cádiz. Gerri’s room and bathroom were upstairs. (Aug. 20, 2024)

Our kitchen, just next to the living room, was nicely equipt but the only item we mainly used was the refrigerator at our 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom Airbnb apartment along Calle De Flamenco in Cádiz. (Aug. 20, 2024)

We came across an outdoor restaurant that was still open so we could get a little something to eat since many of the places close for lunch or ordering food by 2:00 or 3:00 in the afternoon in Cádiz and really throughout Spain. Although we were hungry, we couldn’t fill up too much because we had a food walking tour scheduled, so we shared several small plates of tapas. (Aug. 20, 2024)

Before meeting our food walking tour guide, Gerri and I walked around Cádiz, passing the Cathedral of the Holy Cross over the Waters or Cádiz Cathedral. More to come on this cathedral. (Aug. 20, 2024)

Exploring while walking to our food walking tour and passing the old Farmers’ Market of Cádiz which became the site of the now Central Market in the late 1890s. More to come on the Central Market. (Aug. 20, 2024)

The exterior of the closed Central Market in Cádiz. (Aug. 20, 2024)

Exploring while walking to our food walking tour in Cádiz. (Aug. 20, 2024)

Our food walking tour meet up point was at this strangler fig tree with its enormous branches and trunk by the Universidad De Cádiz. (Aug. 20, 2024)

The famous strangler fig trees near the Universidad De Cádiz in Spain were planted in 1903. (Aug. 20, 2024)

The first step of our food walking tour at the Taberna Casa Manteca in Cádiz where people are lined up before this tapas bar opens at 8:30 pm. Spaniards eat late. (Aug. 20, 2024)

Inside the Taberna Casa Manteca, a typical tavern in the heart of the Barrio de La Viña in the center of Cádiz. Founded in 1953, it is one of the best-known and emblematic venues in Cádiz. (Aug. 20, 2024)

Taberna Casa Manteca, in the heart of the Barrio de La Viña in the center of Cádiz, is known for their Chicharrones, which we tried along with the Payoyo cheese and asparagus jam served on grease proof paper rather than plates. (Aug. 20, 2024)

Inside the busy Taberna Casa Manteca, in the heart of the Barrio de La Viña in the center of Cádiz. (Aug. 20, 2024)

Our second and last food walking tour restaurant was the El Faro three generations
Córdoba family have run this restaurant located a block from the sea in Cádiz. (Aug. 20, 2024)

Our Pancho Tours food walking guide, Ana, with Gerri and me at the El Faro Restaurant in Cádiz. (Aug. 20, 2024)

For our tapas tasting at the El Faro Restaurant, our Pancho Tours food walking guide, Ana, ordered the Tortilla de Camarones and Papas Aliñás. The Tortillitas de camarones are crispy shrimp fritters are a signature dish of Cádiz cuisine. (Aug. 20, 2024)

The crowded bar area inside El Faro Restaurant in Cádiz, even though it’s 10:00 pm at night. (Aug. 20, 2024)

The dining room area of the El Faro Restaurant in Cádiz. (Aug. 20, 2024)

We had the opportunity to take a little peek into the kitchen of the El Faro Restaurant in Cádiz. (Aug. 20, 2024)

A quick view of how the crispy shrimp fritters called the Tortilla de Camarones are made at the El Faro Restaurant in Cádiz. These crispy shrimp fritters are difficult to come by outside of the Andalusia area. They are made with a batter of wheat flour, chickpea flour, water, onion (alternatively shallot or scallion), parsley, shrimp, salt and pepper. Because the shrimp are so small it is too difficult to shell them, so they are cooked whole. (Aug. 20, 2024)

The food and night life at 10:30 pm at night along the Calle de la Virgen de la Palma in Cádiz. (Aug. 20, 2024)

I spent my second day in Cádiz taking a free walking tour, while Gerri, who wasn’t feeling too good, took it easy. Although I signed up for the English language tour, it was cancelled since I was the only English speaking person so instead, I joined the Spanish language tour instead.

It was another beautiful and hot day to explore. Here’s to seeing a little more of Cádiz.

I’m standing at the Arco de la Rosa, one of the old access gates to enter the old town of Cadiz. Located in a corner of the Plaza de Catedral, it was named after the small chapel dedicated to the Virgen de la Rosa that was built above the arch. (Aug. 21, 2024)

The Plaza de San Juan de Dios in Cádiz unites the city hall building, restaurants, cafes and a beautiful area to stroll. (Aug. 21, 2024)

The Ayuntamiento de Cadiz or City Hall at the Plaza de San Juan de Dios in Cádiz. The building holds historical importance as the place where the Andalusian flag was first hoisted in 1936. (Aug. 21, 2024)

Waiting at the Plaza de San Juan de Dios in Cádiz for the start of my free walking tour. I signed up for the English language tour, but I was the only English speaking person to show up so I ended up joining the Spanish language tour instead. (Aug. 21, 2024)

From the Plaza de San Juan de Dios, we walked to the Arco de los Blancos, a wall and gate dating back to the ancient Romans from around the 1300s in Cádiz. (Aug. 21, 2024)

The Arco de los Blancos, the principal gate to the medieval town, was built around the 1300s. (Aug. 21, 2024)

The Arco de los Blancos, the principal gate and wall to the medieval town, was built around the 1300s. (Aug. 21, 2024)

Views of old town Cadiz from the Avenida Campo Del Sur with and the Gulf of Cadiz. (Aug. 21, 2024)

Walking along the Avenida Campo Del Sur with views of the Gulf of Cadiz. (Aug. 21, 2024)

The Plaza de Fray Felix with the Iglesia de Santa Cruz or Church of the Holy Cross above the 7th century staircase in Cadiz. (Aug. 21, 2024)

The Iglesia de la Santa Cruz or Church of the Holy Cross is a Roman Catholic church in Cádiz just above the Plaza de Fray Felix. Originally built in 1262, after the conquest of the city by Alfonso X, it was completely rebuilt by 1602 after the first building was burned down by a combined Anglo-Dutch fleet commanded by Admiral Edward Howard, who sacked Cádiz in 1596. (Aug. 21, 2024)

A close-up of the tiled art piece of Jesus on the exterior of the Iglesia de la Santa Cruz or Church of the Holy Cross in Cádiz. (Aug. 21, 2024)

Inside the Iglesia de la Santa Cruz or Church of the Holy Cross is a Roman Catholic church in Cádiz. (Aug. 21, 2024)

The main altar inside the Iglesia de la Santa Cruz or Church of the Holy Cross in Cádiz. The alter is the work of Alejandro Saavedra from 1647 and it features the white marble statue of Our Lady of the Rosary. (Aug. 21, 2024)

The reclining Christ inside the Iglesia de la Santa Cruz or Church of the Holy Cross is a Roman Catholic church in Cádiz. (Aug. 21, 2024)

Walking through old town Cádiz. (Aug. 21, 2024)

The Arco de la Rosa is one of the old access gates into the old town of Cádiz. It was named after a small chapel dedicated to the Virgin of the Rose. (Aug. 21, 2024)

Walking through the Plaza de las Flores in Cádiz. (Aug. 21, 2024)

The Mercado Central in Cádiz is not only a famous indoor food market located in the historic center of the city, but also one of the oldest covered markets in Spain, having served the people of Cádiz for over 186 years. (Aug. 21, 2024)

She felt better and was ready to explore. Thankfully my cousin, Gerri, after resting yesterday, felt like getting out. And, what a great day to do so. It was definitely another warm day but we did not push it.

We took the afternoon to spend time enjoying the enormous and grandiose Cádiz Cathedral that comes with a deep history of being built between 1722 and 1838 and with many names in both Spanish and English like Catedral de Santa Cruz sobre las Aguas or the Cathedral of the Holy Cross over the Waters or the Catedral de la Santa Cruz de Cádiz pr Catedral Nueva. So, to make sure things simple, I’ll be referring to this great structure as the Cádiz Cathedral.

We stopped for a late afternoon snack before going out to a late dinner back at the El Faro Restaurant.

Here’s to a lovely, slow day in Cádiz that included its magnificent cathedral and delicious food.

Gerri and me at the Plaza de la Catedral with the crowning glory of the Cádiz Cathedral behind us. The Catholic cathedral was built between 1722 and 1838. (Aug. 22, 2024)

The Cádiz Cathedral was built between 1722 and 1838. (Aug. 22, 2024)

The main chapel inside the Cádiz Cathedral built between 1722 and 1838. (Aug. 22, 2024)

Inside the enormous Cádiz Cathedral with a view of the Choir section to the right. (Aug. 22, 2024)

Inside the enormous Cádiz Cathedral with a view of the Choir gate. (Aug. 22, 2024)

The Choir inside the Cádiz Cathedral is a Spanish tradition where the intricately wood-carved choirs is located in the central nave in front of the main altar. The choir books, dedicated to gregorian chant, had to be seen, arranged on the lectern, from a certain distance, and for this reason they were large-format books. (Aug. 22, 2024)

The intricately wood-carved Choir inside the Cádiz Cathedral. (Aug. 22, 2024)

A close-up of the intricately wood-carved Choir inside the Cádiz Cathedral. (Aug. 22, 2024)

Inside the enormous Cádiz Cathedral. (Aug. 22, 2024)

For the Corpus Christi procession, this large and impressive silver processional inside the Cádiz Cathedral was of silver between 1649 and 1664. (Aug. 22, 2024)

The entrance to the Sacristy inside the enormous Cádiz Cathedral. (Aug. 22, 2024)

The carved ceiling at the entrance of the Sacristy inside the enormous Cádiz Cathedral. (Aug. 22, 2024)

Treasured artifacts on display in the Sacristy inside the enormous Cádiz Cathedral. (Aug. 22, 2024)

The Chapel of the Tabernacle inside the enormous Cádiz Cathedral. (Aug. 22, 2024)

The entrance to the crypt inside the enormous Cádiz Cathedral. The architect Vicente Acero began the construction of the cathedral in 1723, abandoning the works in 1729, only being able to finish the crypt and the foundations of the building. (Aug. 22, 2024)

The flat vault crypt inside the Cádiz Cathedral. The vault was completed in 1726 by architect Vicente Acero before he abandoned the work. It is organized around a circular space covered by a flat vault, from which various rooms open. (Aug. 22, 2024)

Inside the flat vault crypt of the Cádiz Cathedral. (Aug. 22, 2024)

In the flat vault crypt of the Cádiz Cathedral is the Pantheon of the Christ of Las Aguas. (Aug. 22, 2024)

The Plaza de la Catedral which houses both the Cádiz Cathedral and the Iglesia de Santiago (Church of Santiago) built in 1635. The church, behind the blue and white carousel, was known as “The Cathedral of The Americas” because it was built with money from the trade between Spain and America. (Aug. 22, 2024)

Stopping for a snack at the Mirador Las Cortes in Cádiz of Tortillitas de Camarones and Iberian Pork shoulder with crispy French Fries. (Aug. 22, 2024)

Our Tortillitas de Camarones snack at the Mirador Las Cortes in Cádiz. (Aug. 22, 2024)

Me at the Avenida Campo Del Sur in Cádiz with a view of the Cádiz Cathedral (in the distance) and the Gulf of Cádiz. (Aug. 22, 2024)

Back at the Calle de La Virgen de la Palma where so many restaurants are located in Cádiz. This was just before 8:00 pm, just a little too early in the evening to eat. (Aug. 22, 2024)

Gerri and I back at the El Faro Restaurant in Cádiz where we got to take a photo with Mayte Córdoba. Three generations of the Córdoba family have run this restaurant. Her father, Gonzalo Córdoba opened the restaurant in 1946 as a tavern serving tapas and drinks. His daughter took over the restaurant with her siblings in 1999 after he retired. Mayte studied tourism in Jerez and began working in the restaurant at age 14. (Aug. 22, 2024)

A beautiful evening walk along the Avenida Campo Del Sur with views of the Gulf of Cádiz. (Aug. 22, 2024)

An evening walk through the Plaza de San Juan de Dios in Cádiz where the city hall building, restaurants and cafes are located along a beautiful stroll. (Aug. 22, 2024)

A beautiful night’s view of the Cádiz Cathedral in the Plaza de la Catedral. (Aug. 22, 2024)

On our last day in Cádiz we took it easy. After a leisurely morning, the only thing I really wanted to do was to walk around, visit the city’s ancient archaeological site and eat some more good food.

I’ve really enjoyed my brief time in Cádiz. And, if I were more of a beach person, I would come back just to spend more time there., but nonetheless, I can definitely see myself coming back and spending more time.

But for now, here’s to our last day in Cádiz before moving on to Seville.