Splendid Spain: Málaga, Food tour, History & my Cousin Arriving

I am not a foodie but I do enjoy eating good, tasty food. I know what I like and what I don’t like and sometimes I can be too picky if it’s something I am not familiar with but ultimately, I will give it a try…at least once.

At home, I can be very indecisive about food and what to eat. Just ask my daughter. I’ll bug her and ask her “What do I want to eat?” Serious first world problems, I know, when so many people are literally starving to death and I have access to such abundance.

Didn’t mean to get socially deep considering this is about a food walking tour in Málaga, so let’s proceed. I’ve been in Málaga a couple of days and did the tour on my first night here to introduce myself to Málaga’s cuisine.

It shouldn’t be odd that what I love most about these food tours is that the food stops are all planned out and usually quite tasty. I don’t have to think about what I’m going to eat, I just show up and consume. And I thoroughly enjoyed our small group and the delicious food.

Thank you Anaïs, our food tour guide with Spain Food Sherpas, which I booked through Viator.

¡Vamos a comer! Or, Let’s eat!

Me, at the first stop of the food walking tour, the Antigua Casa de Guardia or the Old Guard House wine bar. Founded in 1840, it’s the oldest bar in Málaga. Here, I’m enjoying the sweet Moscatel wine before chowing down on a small tapa called the ‘banderilla’ with pickled onions, olives and anchovies marinated in vinegar. The Moscatel golden is sweet but not overpowering and quite delicious. (Aug. 14, 2024)

The barrels of wine inside the Antigua Casa de Guardia or the Old Guard House wine bar, founded in 1840 and is the oldest bar in Málaga. Our Moscatel wine glasses are lined up at the bar with tapas treats of the ‘banderilla’ with pickled onions, olives and anchovies marinated in vinegar along with a plate of peppers. (Aug. 14, 2024)

The barrels of wine inside the Antigua Casa de Guardia or the Old Guard House wine bar, founded in 1840 and is the oldest bar in Málaga. (Aug. 14, 2024)

Inside the very rustic, traditional (no air only fans) wine bar, Antigua Casa de Guardia or the Old Guard House in Málaga. (Aug. 14, 2024)

Walking through the Centro Historico or Old Town of Málaga making our way to our second food stop. (Aug. 14, 2024)

Our second food walking tour stop, the Almacén del Indiano is where we got to experience delicious Iberian ham, black sausage/chorizo, the Málaga sausage (salchichón de Málaga) and a slice of manchego cheese. (Aug. 14, 2024)

Inside our second stop, the Almacén del Indiano in Málaga. (Aug. 14, 2024)

Our little morsels of tasty delight at the second stop of the food tour, Almacén del Indiano. This included Iberian ham, blood sausage/chorizo, the Málaga sausage (salchichón de Málaga) and a slice of manchego cheese. Washing it all down with a homemade sweet Vermouth. Ate it all. And drank up the Vermouth. (Aug. 14, 2024)

Walking through the Centro Historico or Old Town of Málaga making our way to our third food stop. (Aug. 14, 2024)

Enjoying the 18th century Málaga architecture with its mural paintings on the facades of the noblest buildings, including this one, the Church of San Juan Bautista. (Aug. 14, 2024)

More of the 18th century Málaga architecture with its mural paintings on the facades as we make our way to our third food stop. (Aug. 14, 2024)

Entering our third food walking tour stop, El Chinitas in Centro Historico or the Old Town of Málaga. (Aug. 14, 2024)

Inside the first floor dining area of El Chinitas, a traditional restaurant featuring portraits of bull fighters where we came for our fourth food stop to enjoy traditional foods from Málaga. (Aug. 14, 2024)

The bar area of El Chinitas which offers tapas and a menu of its traditional Malagan foods. (Aug. 14, 2024)

Although our food walking tour included tapas, different from these, El Chinitas does offer tapas and a menu of its traditional Malagan foods. (Aug. 14, 2024)

We had three plates of food to share at El Chinitas, our third food stop of our food walking tour. We began with these delicious fried Aubergines or Eggplant fries with sugar cane honey. These were actually quite tasty and more so without the sugar cane honey. (Aug. 14, 2024)

Our second plate, at El Cinitas, we had these morsels of fried fish with mayonnaise. I didn’t have to share and I ate it all. Delicious. (Aug. 14, 2024)

And, our third plate of food, which we shared at El Cinitas were these small sandwiches with grilled pork shoulder and onions. This was not one of my favorites. (Aug. 14, 2024)

The decorated stone walkways through the historical area of Málaga. (Aug. 14, 2024)

Walking to our fourth and final food stop, through the beautiful baroque, Plaza del Obispo or Bishop’s Square in the old historic center of Málaga with an incredible view of the main entrance of the Cathedral of Málaga. (Aug. 14, 2024)

Me, on the way to our fourth food stop, in front of the Cathedral of Málaga. More on this beautiful Cathedral to come. But for now, onward to eating more good food. (Aug. 14, 2024)

Walking through the Centro Historico or Old Town of Málaga making our way to our 4th and final food stop. (Aug. 14, 2024)

Our fourth and last food stop of our food walking tour was the modern restaurant, M de Mariano for their ‘rice with things’ or just a tapa of rice along with their Gazpachuelo, a thin milky-like cold soup and croquettes. (Aug. 14, 2024)

My Gazpachuelo, a soup originating in Málaga, is a typical fish dish consisting of mayonnaise, garlic, egg yolk and olive oil at the M de Mariano, the fourth and last stop of my food walking tour. The egg white is added to thicken the mixture, along with cubed potatoes. Nice taste but I’m not a cold soup person. (Aug. 14 2024)

Also had two croquettes each at M de Mariano, which were delicious. Quite tasty. (Aug. 14, 2024)

And, our final eats was the tapa of rice basically called ‘rice and things’ at M de Marino in Malaga. I like my food a little bit more seasoned but this rice tapa was just okay. (Aug. 14, 2024)

A close-up of my portion of our final eats was the tapa of rice basically called ‘rice and things’ at M de Marino in Málaga. I like my food a little bit more seasoned but this rice tapa was just okay. And, by this time, I was pretty full. (Aug. 14, 2024)

Walking back to my hotel through this beautiful tree-lined pathway after spending close to four hours on a rather delicious food walking in Málaga. (Aug. 14, 2024)

My comfy hotel room at the Atarazanas Málaga Boutique. A great location for exploring Málaga. (Aug. 14, 2024)

My large bathroom with walk-in shower, loved it, at the Atarazanas Málaga Boutique. A great location for exploring Málaga. (Aug. 14, 2024)

People come to Málaga for the beach, but along with the food, I’m here for the history which spans about 2,800 years making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Western Europe.

According to most scholars, Málaga was founded about 770 BC by the Phoenicians as Malaka. After which, came the Romans, the Visigoths, the Islamics and then the Christians.

So today’s history lesson involves Málaga’s Roman Theater, its Alcazaba fortress/palace and its magnificent Cathedral.

Me at El Teatro Romano or the Roman Theater, Málaga’s oldest monument at the foot of its Alcazaba fortress/palace. (Aug. 15, 2024)

The Roman Theater of Málaga was built in the first century BC, under Emperor Augustus, and was used until the third century AD. It was subsequently left to ruin for centuries, until the Moors settled in Andalucía. In 756-780 AD, the theater was used as a quarry by the Moorish settlers to build the Alcazaba fortress/palace. Some Roman columns and capitals can be seen inside the fortress. Over time it became buried under dirt and rubble, and remained hidden for almost five centuries. (Aug. 15, 2024)

The Roman Theater in Málaga, which was buried under dirt and rubble remained hidden for almost five centuries and was rediscovered in 1951. (Aug. 15, 2024)

Entering both the Roman Theater (left) and the Alcazaba, the Fortress of Málaga (right). (Aug. 15, 2024)

Entering the Alcazaba, the Fortress of Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

Walking up and through the Alcazaba fortress/palace of Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

The Puerta de las Columnas, an arched entryway into the Alcazaba fortress of Málaga, with remnants of the capitals and columns from the Roman Theater below it. (Aug. 15, 2024)

Walking upwards and through the Alcazaba fortress/palace of Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

Walking through Arco del Cristo or the Arch of the Christ inside the Alcazaba fortress leading to the outer citadel enclosure. (Aug. 15, 2024)

Standing inside the Arco del Cristo or the Arch of the Christ inside the Alcazaba fortress leading to the outer citadel enclosure. (Aug. 15, 2024)

The Mirador or viewpoint and the remains of the former mosque at the Alcazaba fortress/palace in Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

Views from the Mirador or viewpoint a top the remains of the former mosque at the Alcazaba fortress/palace in Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

Walking through a stone archway inside the Alcazaba fortress/palace in Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

The courtyard pavilion of the Alcazaba palace area of the fortress in Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

The caliphate-style horseshoe arches at the courtyard pavilion of the Alcazaba palace area of the fortress in Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

The Patio de la Alberca of the Alcazaba palace area of the fortress in Málaga. Most of this palace was reconstructed or restored in the 20th century on the basis of archeological remains. (Aug. 15, 2024)

Views of the Alcazaba fortress/palace of Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

Views of Málaga’s old town area from a top the Alcazaba fortress/palace. (Aug. 15, 2024)

Walking through Málaga to visit the Cathedral of Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

Me on the way to the Cathedral of Málaga with its sole tower in the distance. The second tower remains unfinished. (Aug. 15, 2024)

The Fuente Plaza del Obispo or the Bishop’s Plaza and fountain which faces the main view of the Cathedral of Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

The Cathedral of Málaga’s main facade. The cathedral was constructed between 1528 and 1782 in a Baroque style with three arches, inside of which are portals separated by marble columns. Above the doors are medallions carved in stone. (Aug. 20, 2024)

A close-up exterior view of the Cathedral of Málaga’s main facade and central portal, one of three. Above the doors are medallions carved in stone. (Aug. 15, 2024)

Inside the Cathedral of Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

The main altar inside the Cathedral of Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

A close-up of the main altar inside the Cathedral of Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

The choir room inside the Cathedral of Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

A close-up of the carved stalls of the choir room inside the Cathedral of Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

The Chapel of the Incarnation, one of several chapels inside the Cathedral of Málaga, contains a neoclassic altarpiece from 1785 representing the Annuciation, the angel Gabriel announces to the Virgin Mary that she would conceive a son by the power of the Holy Spirit to be called Jesus. (Aug. 15, 2024)

A close-up of the 1785 sculptures of the Chapel of the Incarnation inside the Cathedral of Málaga representing the Annunciation where the angel Gabriel announces to the Virgin Mary that she would conceive a son by the power of the Holy Spirit to be called Jesus. (Aug. 15, 2024)

The Sacred Heart’s Chapel Life and martyrdom of Saint Pelagius inside the Cathedral of Málaga with the wood carved Sacred Heart of Jesus. (Aug. 15, 2024)

The wood carved Sacred Heart of Jesus on the mantel of the Sacred Heart’s Chapel Life and martyrdom of Saint Pelagius inside the Cathedral of Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

Me getting in a selfie at the exterior facade of the Cathedral of Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

Stopped for a late lunch of Tapas, small plate or appetizer, of an Empanadilla de Carne (Pastry stuffed with meat) and Gambas al pil pil (Garlic Shrimp) at Sanchez in Malaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

When I come to Spain, this is my favorite dish. Here in Málaga it’s called Gambas al pil pil and in other places it’s called Gambas al Ajillo. It’s served in an earthenware or small clay casserole dish with olive oil, garlic and chili peppers. Just yum! And, Tinto de Verano, to wash it all down with. It’s a popular cold, wine-based drink with table red wine and a lemonade soda. (Aug. 15, 2024)

Love the quilt floor blocks and pattern on the floor inside the restaurant of Sanchez in Málaga. (Aug. 15, 2024)

It was a day to wander on my own through this wonderful city while also discovering the roots of Pablo Ruiz Picasso whom I did not know was born in Málaga on Oct. 25, 1881 and that his childhood home is now the Pablo Ruiz Picasso House-Museum.

Picasso’s artistic legacy as the most important artist of the 20th century is known as a painter, sculptor, printmaker, ceramicist and theatre designer who after living in Málaga with his family until 1891, subsequently moved with his family to Galicia and later Barcelona until 1904 when he established his residence in France.

Before visiting Picasso’s childhood home, I also spent sometime at the Museo Picasso Málaga, the former Buenavista Palace, home to 285 works donated by members of Picasso’s family.

Here’s to Picasso in his birthplace and childhood home of Málaga.

This hommage to Pablo Picasso at the Plaza de la Juderia in Málaga was painted by Miguel Ángel Belinchón aka Belin. Since Málaga is the hometown of Picasso, he’s honored around the city. Picasso is known for co-founding the Cubist movement with Georges Braque. Cubism deconstructed the conventions of perspective that had been dominant since the Renaissance. (Aug. 16, 2024)

A cubist homage mural at the Plaza de la Juderia in Málaga was painted by Miguel Ángel Belinchón aka Belin in honor of Picasso’s birthplace and childhood home. (Aug. 16, 2024)

Passing the Mercado Central de Atarazanas while walking through Málaga’s Centro Historico, the hometown of artist Pablo Picasso. The Mercado de Atarazanas is a lively daily market that sells a variety of food, including ham, sausages, cheese, fish, olives, fruit, and vegetables. The market dates back to the 14th century and was originally a Nasrid boatyard. After the Christian Conquest, the building was used for various purposes, including a warehouse, arsenal, military hospital, and barracks.(Aug. 16, 2024)

The massive stained glass window of the Mercado de Atarazanas depicts historical highlights of Málaga. (Aug. 16, 2024)

Inside the Mercado Central de Atarazanas in Málaga. The busy market offers a wide variety of fresh fruits, vegetables, and nuts as well as fresh meats, fish and cheese. (Aug. 16, 2024)

Walking through Málaga’s Centro Historico, the hometown of artist Pablo Picasso. (Aug. 16, 2024)

Walking through Málaga’s Centro Historico. There’s a week-long festival called the Feria de Málaga that commemorates the Catholic Monarchs’ capture of Málaga in 1487. (Aug. 16, 2024)

Walking through Málaga’s Centro Historico. (Aug. 16, 2024)

Walking through Málaga’s Centro Historico and this bronze sculpture of a dove/hand by Jose Seguiri on original drawing by Rafael Pérez Estrada called Ave Quiromántica on Calle Bolsa. (Aug. 16, 2024)

The Museo Picasso Málaga was once the Palace of Buenavista. It houses a permanent collection devoted in its entirety to Picasso’s work. The museum opened in 2003 and has 285 works donated by members of Picasso’s family that includes paintings, sculptures, graphic works and ceramics, completed by the temporary exhibitions and a variety of cultural and educational programmes. The museum is only 660 feet or 200 meters from the Plaza de la Merced building where Picasso was born on Calle San Agustín in Málaga. Although he moved away from Málaga at the age of 10, Picasso went to nursery school on that street, and his father José Ruiz Picasso was curator of the city museum in the old town hall, also on that street. (Aug. 16, 2024)

Inside the Museo Picasso Málaga was once the Palace of Buenavista. It houses a permanent collection devoted in its entirety to Picasso’s work. (Aug. 16, 2024)

A reproduction of a photograph from Picasso’s Studio on rue La Boétie in Paris, circa 1920 at the Museo Picasso Málaga. (Aug. 16, 2024)

An oil and charcoal on canvas painting by Picasso called ‘Woman with Arms Crossed’ circa 1919-1920 in Paris at the Museo Picasso Málaga. (Aug. 16, 2024)

An oil, charcoal and sand on canvas painting by Picasso called ‘Woman with Raised Arms’ circa 1936 in Paris at the Museo Picasso Málaga.
Throughout Picasso’s career, women were his primary subject. However, these drawings, paintings, prints, and sculptures are rarely portraits. Instead, these images were the medium through which he plumbed depths of emotion, invented pictorial structures and responded to political events of his time. (Aug. 16, 2024)

Inside the courtyard of the Museo Picasso Málaga which was once the Palace of Buenavista. (Aug. 16, 2024)

The building Pablo Picasso, the most important artist of the 20th century, was born in here at 15 Plaza de la Merced in 1881 and lived until 1884 in Málaga. Now called the Casa Natal Picasso Museum or Pablo Ruiz Picasso House-Museum houses works and personal belongings of the artist and his family. The museum was extended to cover the entire building and was reopened in June of 1998. (Aug. 16, 2024)

The small first floor display room inside the Museo Casa Natal Picasso, the building which the artist was born and lived in with his family as a child. (Aug. 16, 2024)

A small gift shop on the first floor inside the Museo Casa Natal Picasso, the building which the artist was born and lived in with his family as a child. (Aug. 16, 2024)

Stairway leading to the second floor inside the Museo Casa Natal Picasso, the building which the artist was born and lived in with his family as a child. (Aug. 16, 2024)

A first image of Pablo Ruiz Picasso, circa 1884 inside the Museo Casa Natal Picasso, the building which the artist was born in 1881 and lived in with his family as a child. He lived in Málaga until he was nine and returned several times until 1900. (Aug. 16, 2024)

Portrait of Picasso’s mother, Maria Picasso Lopez (1855-1938) inside the Museo Casa Natal Picasso in Málaga, the building which the artist was born and lived in with his family as a child.
Picasso’s mother said to him, “If you are a soldier, you will become a general. If you are a monk, you will become the Pope.” Instead, he replied, “I was a painter, and became Picasso.” (Aug. 16, 2024)

Portrait of Picasso’s father, Jose Ruiz Blasco (1838-1913) inside the Museo Casa Natal Picasso in Málaga, the building which the artist was born and lived in with his family as a child. Picasso’s first teacher and guide was his own father, a drawing teacher and curator of the Municipal Museum. (Aug. 16, 2024)

“My father painted ‘dining room’ pictures, of those who have partridges or pigeons, hares and rabbits. His speciality were the birds and the flowers. Above all doves and lilacs. He once he made a huge picture that represented a dovecote crowded with pigeons… Imagine one cage with hundreds of pigeons. With thousands and millions of pigeons… They were lined up as in a dovecote: a huge dovecote,” said Pablo Picasso.
This oil on canvas painting called ‘Dovecote’ by Jose Ruiz Blasco, circa 1878 inside the Museo Casa Natal Picasso in Málaga, the building which the artist was born and lived in with his family as a child. (Aug. 16, 2024)

The bull and bullfighting room inside the Museo Casa Natal Picasso in Málaga. It was a recurring motif in Picasso’s work, appearing in his drawings, paintings, and ceramics. Picasso was passionate about bullfighting, which he saw as a symbol of Spanishness and masculinity. He was taken to the bullring as a child and his earliest surviving painting depicts a picador. (Aug. 16, 2024)

The Great Bullfight, a lithographic crayon, wash drawing, gouache and pen on transfer paper transferred to stone from 1949 inside the Museo Casa Natal Picasso in Málaga. (Aug. 16, 2024)

Different bull renditions by Picasso inside the Museo Casa Natal Picasso in Málaga. (Aug. 16, 2024)

The Church of San Juan Bautista in Málaga is a Roman Catholic Church dedicated to John the Baptist. It’s one of the four churches that Ferdinand and Isabella built in 1487 upon successfully reconquering Málaga. One of the typical Málaga architectural features of the 18th century is the murals on the noblest buildings. During the last few years, the murals on church facades and other buildings throughout the city have been recovered after having been hidden under many layers of whitewash. (Aug. 16, 2024)

The mural exterior of the Church of San Juan Bautista in Málaga is a Roman Catholic Church dedicated to John the Baptist. One of the typical Málaga architectural features of the 18th century is the murals on the noblest buildings. During the last few years, the murals on church facades and other buildings throughout the city have been recovered after having been hidden under many layers of whitewash. (Aug. 16, 2024)

The bell tower of the Church of San Juan Bautista in Málaga was completed in 1564 and rebuilt in the 1600s as a baroque tower. (Aug. 16, 2024)

The Church of San Juan Bautista in Málaga with its Gothic origins was rebuilt in the 1600s with an opulent interior. (Aug. 16, 2024)

The altar inside the Church of San Juan Bautista in Málaga. (Aug. 16, 2024)

A side view of the chapels inside the Church of San Juan Bautista in Málaga. (Aug. 16, 2024)

A side chapel inside the Church of San Juan Bautista in Málaga. (Aug. 16, 2024)

She’s here!

Before my wonderful cousin/sister Gerri made it to Málaga, I spent my morning watching a colorful horse drawn carriage parade right from my hotel room window at the Atarazanas Málaga Boutique Hotel. And, for Gerri, it was a day and a half of travel that went off without a hitch. And, she arrived just in time for us to do a traditional Spanish late night dinner and abbreviated tapas crawl.

Originally, our plan was to meet in Ronda and travel together through to Seville, but I just didn’t want to wait an extra day to see her, so we made the necessary last minute arrangements for me to stay in Málaga an extra night. And, it all worked out.

Welcome to Spain Cuz! We got a lot of eating and drinking to do. So, let’s get to it!