Alaska: Cruising the Inside Passage

It’s Monday and we’ve been at sea since 4:00 pm Sunday.

To recap:

On Sunday, after repacking our suitcases and checking out of our Vancouver hotel, the Blue Horizon on Robson, Rosie and I began the morning with a nice, leisurely breakfast.

The initial plan was to walk to the Canada Place cruise terminal to board our Holland America cruise through Alaska but the rain changed those plans and we took a taxi instead.

So grateful to Mother Nature for showing us such beautiful weather until our last day in Vancouver before boarding our ship. The forecast for our last day in Vancouver called for rain and it most definitely rained.

I have to admit, I’m not one for cruising. Two years ago, I did an Antarctica cruise and got sea sick crossing the Drake Passage. But those were pretty rough waters and from what I’ve been told, the sea of the Inside Passage through British Columbia or throughout the journey is not expected to be rough.

For now we’re cruising the Inside Passage along relatively flat and calm waters.

Next stop Tuesday morning is Ketchikan, Alaska. Goodbye Vancouver.

As I mentioned, I’m not a big time cruiser so this 7- day Alaska cruise on an 11 day tour worked for me. We cruise from Vancouver to Whittier and then take a train to the Denali National Forest and a bus to Fairbanks where the tour ends. This is a map of our journey from our Holland America cruise.

Saying goodbye to Vancouver on a cloudy, rainy Sunday. Thank you for the great weather and gorgeous sites during our stay. Onwards to Alaska. (June 2, 2024)

We originally talked about walking to the cruise ship terminal but the all-day of rain changed that so we took a taxi from our hotel, the Blue Horizon. Glad we did because the taxi dropped us off at the terminal underground parking where dropped off our luggage with Holland America. (June 2, 2024)

Making our way through the security line inside the convention center at Canada Place at the cruise terminal in Vancouver. (June 2, 2024)

Getting checked-in at Canada Place terminal security. Here Rosie and I are having our passports scanned and photos taken for our ship I.D. (June 2, 2024)

The Nieuw Amsterdam, Holland America ship, our floating home for the next seven nights from Vancouver, Canada to Whittier, Alaska, USA. (June 2, 2024)

More lengthy lines as we snake our way through Canada and U.S. customs and immigration. (June 2, 2024)

A close-up view of the Nieuw Amsterdam docked at the Canada Place cruise terminal in Vancouver. (June 2, 2024)

After, not quite an hour of going around and around in lines, we were ready to talk the gangway onto our Holland America cruise ship, the Nieuw Amsterdam. (June 2, 2024)

Waiting outside of our door were our two personalized room keys that we use, not only for getting into our room, but also to check out and back on the ship as well as use it to make purchases. Anyway, this is our room on the Verandah or 5th floor. (June 2, 2024)

Our twin bedroom stateroom on the Niewu Amsterdam ship with a wonderful balcony. (June 2, 2024)

This personalized door key card was waiting for myself and a personalized key card for Rosie. This key or card is also what we are to use to purchase anything and to exit and re-enter the ship on excursions. (June 2, 2024)

I thought our bathroom would be tiny but it’s actually a comfortable size. (June 2, 2024)

Everyone heading to Guest Services on the Nieuw Amsterdam cruise ship for help. (June 2, 2024)

The captain announced on the loud speaker that all passengers were required to make our way to the Muster station of the ship before sailing. The 3rd floor Muster station is the place on the ship where passengers assemble in the event of an emergency and where the ship evacuations take place. (June 2, 2024)

The 3rd floor Muster station is the place on the Niewu Amsterdam ship where passengers assemble in the event of an emergency and where the ship evacuations take place. (June 2, 2024)

Setting sail around 4:00 pm Sunday from the Canada Place cruise terminal in Vancouver for our voyage across the Inside Passage into Alaska. (June 2, 2024)

On the Nieuw Amsterdam cruise ship leaving Vancouver on an overcast and rainy early evening. (June 2, 2024)

On the Nieuw Amsterdam cruise ship , passing under the Lions Gate Bridge on an overcast and rainy early evening in Vancouver. (June 2, 2024)

A Day at Sea

I’m not one for crusing, but a day on a ship, without getting sea sick is a wonderful day. Plus, I’m excited to enjoy the network of waterways, towns, sea life and landscapes through Alaska’s Inside Passage.

Enjoying the cool, crisp clean air and beautiful views on our stateroom’s balcony or veranda during our daylong cruise at sea. (June 3, 2024)

Not sure why I was so tired but it was great to wake up on Monday morning, after a good night’s sleep to this calm seas, blue skies, scattered clouds at sea. According to GPS, at 7:30 this morning we’re passing through Queen Charlotte Strait, Mount Waddington A, BC, Canada continuing on a full day at sea. (June 3, 2024)

Monday morning breakfast at the buffet-style Lido Market on our Nieuw Amsterdam cruise ship. (June 3, 2024)

Breakfast at the buffet-style Lido Market on our Nieuw Amsterdam cruise ship. (June 3, 2024)

A walk along the Observation deck after breakfast on our Nieuw Amsterdam cruise ship. (June 3, 2024)

Cruising along the Laredo Sound, Kitimat-Stikine, British Columbia, Canada. (June 3, 2024)

It was a cold, rainy and windy day in Ketchikan, Alaska. So basically it was just another normal day’s weather at the Rain Capital of Alaska.

Our ship, Nieuw Amsterdam, pulled into Ketchikan’s port around 5:30 this morning. It’s a short stay in Ketchikan starting from 6:30 am to all aboard by 2:30 pm.

I came prepared with rain pants, long johns, rain hat, two jackets, a sweater, an umbrella and one glove. I had two but the other one is MIA, missing in action. Maybe it will turn up and maybe it won’t. Either way, I braved the weather like the travel trooper that I am.

For my day in Ketchikan, I signed up, or should I say, paid for the ship’s excursion of the Saxman Native Village, Dance Performance & Totem Park. Saxman is a small town just a couple of miles south of Ketchikan with a population of about 400 people, most of whom are Alaska Natives.

A few Alaskan facts unbeknownst to me: On March 30, 1867, the United States reached an agreement to purchase Alaska from Russia for a price of $7.2 million. The 49th state of the United States of America is considered as the “Last Frontier,” encompassing remote towns, bays, National Parks and fjords…all a part of exploring Alaska’s Inside Passage, beginning here with Ketchikan.

Here’s a quick look at Ketchikan on a normal rainy day!

Me standing by sculpture of “The Rock” at the Ketchikan port with our ship, the Nieuw Amsterdam hovering over the city. The Rock sculpture tells the story of how Alaska’s First City came to be. (June 4, 2024)

Our ship arrived into Ketchikan this morning at around 5:30. (June 4, 2024)

The view into Ketchikan from the balcony of our 5th level room of our Holland America ship, the Nieuw Amsterdam. Up close and personal. (June 4, 2024)

The elevator on the ship with a view into Ketchikan, Alaska. (June 4, 2024)

Waiting in line on the second level of the ship to disembark for Ketchikan, Alaska. (June 4, 2024)

Disembarking the ship down the gangplank in Ketchikan, Alaska. (June 4, 2024)

The Rock sculpture at the port in Ketchikan tells the story of how Alaska’s First City came to be. Six of the seven figures on the sculpture represents a prominent archetype in the city’s history—a fisherman, a minor, a logger, a bush pilot, a frontierswoman, a Native drummer. The seventh represents an actual historical figure—Chief Johnson, a Tlingit who stands on top of The Rock, symbolizing the fact that his people were the first to make their home in SE Alaska. (June 4, 2024)

The Welcome to Ketchikan sign touting Alaska’s first city and the Salmon Capital of the World. (June 4, 2024)

This big ole’ Holland America ship, my ship, hogging the port in Ketchikan. Or so I thought. There were four other ships docked too. Ketchikan has a population of 14,000 people but when the cruise ships are in, the population doubles. (June 4, 2024)

Whale Park in Ketchikan with the Chief Kyan Totem Pole. Totem poles are carved to honor deceased ancestors, record history, social events, and oral tradition. They were never worshipped as religious objects. (June 4, 2024)

Beautiful blooming flowers in the cold, rain and wind at Whale Park in Ketchikan. (June 4, 2024)

Heading to Creek Street considered an historic area of Ketchikan. (June 4, 2024)

Creek Street in Ketchikan is actually a boardwalk mounted in stilts on a high slope just a few blocks from the port and the city’s downtown. It’s also infamous as being Ketchikan’s red light district, roughly between 1903 and 1954. (June 4, 2024)

Creek Street waterfall in Ketchikan. (June 4, 2024)

Getting in a selfie by the Creek Street waterfall in Ketchikan. (June 4, 2024)

A walk way through Creek Street in Ketchikan. (June 4, 2024)

Me at Creek Street in Ketchikan. (June 4, 2024)

Creek Street in Ketchikan. (June 4, 2024)

On the tour bus to the Saxmen Totem Park in the city of Saxmen. There are people just outside the ship’s gangplank with signs for excursions pointing people to their buses for their specific excursions. (June 4, 2024)

This is the Beaver Clan House at the Saxman Totem Park in the town of Saxman just a few miles south of Ketchikan. The Clan House is where we saw the traditional Native dancers perform. (June 4, 2024)

Inside the Beaver Clan House at the Saxman Totem Park in the town of Saxman just a few miles south of Ketchikan. Christy, a Tlingit of the Raven-Beaver clan, shared that the clans follow the maternal side of the family. And how important it is to list, respect and learn from one’s elders. (June 4, 2024)

The songs and dances performed at the Beaver Clan House at the Saxman Totem Park are handed down from one generation to the next. The mothers, aunts or grandmothers make the dance gear. Some of the names of the dances performed were the Beaver Clan Dance, the Paddle Dance and the Potlash Dance. (June 4, 2024)

The dancers of the Beaver Clan House at the Saxman Totem Park. (June 4, 2024)

The mothers, aunts or grandmothers make the dance gear for the dancers at the Beaver Clan House of the Saxman Totem Park in the town of Saxman. (June 4, 2024)

The Beaver Clan House of the Saxman Totem Park in the town of Saxman.

Saxman Totem Park in the town of Saxman, just a couple of miles south of Ketchikan in Alaska, is home to a collection of totem poles. (June 4, 2024)

The Seward Pole at the Saxman Totem Pole Park is a shame pole. The original pole was erected in the 1880s to ridicule Secretary of State William H. Seward for failing to repay either the courtesy or the generosity of his hosts. (June 4, 2024)

The Village Carving Center at the Saxmen Totem Park in Saxmen, Alaska, is where totem pole carving is performed and demonstrated. (June 4, 2024)

Inside the Village Carving Center at the Saxmen Totem Park in Saxmen, Alaska, is where totem pole carving is performed and demonstrated. (June 4, 2024)

Inside the Village Carving Center at the Saxman Totem Park in Saxman, where Alaskan Native artist Nathan Jackson was present to discuss his totem pole art. The 85-year-old Jackson, considered among the most important living Tlingit and Alaskan artist has a totem pole on display in the Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian in Washington, D.C. (June 4, 2024)

The master totem pole carver, Nathan Jackson at work in the Village Carving Center at the Saxman Totem Park in Saxman, where the Alaskan Native artist was present to discuss his totem pole art. (June 4, 2024)

Nathan Jackson, at the Village Carving Center of the Saxman Totem Park in Saxman, spoke about how he became a painter before he began carving miniature totem poles. Jackson, a Master Carver has been working in Alaska Native arts since 1959. (June 4, 2024)

This totem pole, laying on its side, outside of the carving workshop at the Saxman Totem Park is about 130 years old. (June 4, 2024)

Next port of call, Juneau. It became the territorial capital of Alaska in 1906 and has been the state capital since January 3, 1959 when Alaska became the 49th state in the U.S.

We arrived in Juneau at 10:00 Wednesday morning with all aboard until 8:30 pm. The weather in Juneau was the same as in Ketchikan, cold, rainy and a little less wind (except for on the North Pacific Ocean for whale watching. It was very cold and windy.)

I signed up for the Mendenhall Glacier & Whale Quest, as did about 100 other people. For me, it’s definitely different to travel with so many people in a group. Let me be honest, I really don’t like it. I’m choosing to accept it for my travels through Alaska, but it’s not my preferred way to travel.

Gripe session over, let’s move on.

What makes Juneau unique? There are no roads connecting it to the rest of Alaska or North America. The only way to get here is by air or by sea.

One very important thing I’ve neglected to mention, is the Tongas National Forest which encapsulates Southeast Alaska. At 16.7 million acres, it is the largest U.S. National Forest. Most of its area is temperate rain forest and is remote enough to be home to many species of endangered and rare flora and fauna.

Managed by the United States Forest Service, most of the area is a rain forest and encompasses islands, fjords, glaciers and Coast Mountain peaks. Both Ketchikan and Juneau are located within the Tongas.

Let’s check out a few sites in Juneau.

Made it to Juneau, the capital city of Alaska. And as you can see from my winter wonder garb, it’s still cold and rainy. (June 5, 2024)

There’s something oddly cool about walking down the gangplank of a ship and onto land. (June 5, 2024)

Our ship (right), the Nieuw Amsterdam, docked within a short walking distance of downtown Juneau. (June 5, 2024)

Views of Juneau, Alaska’s downtown area and waterfront promenade within the Tongas National Park. (June 5, 2024)

Me the Shangukeidi totem pole on the waterfront promenade in downtown Juneau. The carver is Jackson Polys, Tlingit Master Artist from Saxman near Ketchikan. (June 5, 2024)

The Shangukeidi totem pole on the waterfront promenade in downtown Juneau. The carver is Jackson Polys, Tlingit Master Artist from Saxman near Ketchikan. (June 5, 2024)

Downtown Juneau, Alaska. Rosie and I talked about getting King crabs for dinner, thinking the price would be inexpensive. But we were wrong. The average cost for King Crabs at Tracy’s King Crab Shack was about $70 to $75 USD per pound. (June 5, 2024)

The L’uknax adi totem pole include along the waterfront promenade in downtown Juneau. The carver is Mick Beasley, Tlingit Master Artist from Juneau. (June 5, 2024)

Views of downtown Juneau amid the coastal rainforest of the Tongas National Park. (June 5, 2024)

So many of us standing in the rain waiting to board our bus first to our Whale sighting adventure then onto views of the Mendenhall Glacier. (June 5, 2024)

Boarding the St. Gregory boat for our Whale watching quest along the Alaska Marine Highway of the Tongas National Park. (June 5, 2024)

On board the St. Gregory for our Whale watching trip along the Alaska Marine Highway in Juneau. (June 5, 2024)

Although I did see the blow holes and a tail of a Humpback Whale, these are a pod of about 8 to 10 Orcas along the Alaska Marine Highway during our Whale watching quest in Juneau. (June 5, 2024)

Views of the Alaska Marine Highway during our Whale watching quest in Juneau. (June 5, 2024)

The Steller sea lion hanging out on this buoy along the Alaska Marine Highway during our Whale watching quest in Juneau. (June 5, 2024)

On the St. Gregory boat for our whale watching quest along the Alaska Marine Highway during our Whale watching quest in Juneau. (June 5, 2024)

Views of the Alaska Marine Highway in the Tongas National Park during our Whale watching quest in Juneau. (June 5, 2024)

Back on land and on the bus heading toward Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau. (June 5, 2024)

Views of the Mendenhall Glacier from the window of the Visitor Center in the Tongas National Forest in Juneau. “The only glacier in Southeast Alaska accessible by road, Mendenhall’s grand edifice plunges from the immense Juneau Icefield, dropping 4,500 feet over 13 miles. Its active face regularly calves big icebergs and brash into its lake. The glacier has been retreating for 300 to 400 years, since the Little Ice Age, and has peeled back another 1.75 miles since 1929,” from alaska.org.

Walking towards the Mendenhall Glacier along the Photo Point of the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center in the Tongas National Forest in Juneau.
The Photo Point is a paved, flat .6 mile trail with a head-on view of the glacier face across the lake against a coastal mountain panorama. Also to the right is the Nugget Falls. (June 5, 2024)

The Mendenhall Glacier lake and the Tongas National Forest in Juneau. (June 5, 2024)

A viewing point of the Mendenhall Glacier and the Nugget Falls in Juneau. (June 5, 2024)

A selfie with the Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau with a head-on view of the glacier face across the lake against a coastal mountain panorama. (June 5, 2024)

A close-up of the receding Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau. “The Mendenhall Glacier in Alaska has been receding since the late 1700s and is currently retreating at a rate of 25–30 feet per year. Some say it could melt away by 2050, while others believe it won’t disappear completely for at least a century. Between 2007 and 2021, the glacier’s face retreated eight football fields, and some predict it may no longer be visible from the nearby visitor center by 2100,” according to alaskapublic.org. (June 5, 2024)

Back in downtown Juneau to maybe get some King Crab legs. Thinking King Crabs were plentiful, we also thought they would also be less expensive. Wrong! Average cost was about $70 to $75 USD per pound at Tracy’s King Crab Shack downtown. (June 5, 2024)

Back in downtown Juneau with its many shops, especially jewelry shops. (June 5, 2024)

A fur shop in downtown Juneau. (June 5, 2024)

Inside the fur shop in downtown Juneau. (June 5, 2024)

So instead of going to a King Crab restaurant, Rosie and I hit the Red Dog Saloon in downtown Juneau for some good, old-fashioned bar food and beer. (June 5, 2024)

Inside the colorful and lively Red Dog Saloon in downtown Juneau where the wait staff dress in saloon garb and there’s live music. (June 5, 2024)

Inside the colorful and lively Red Dog Saloon in downtown Juneau where the wait staff dress in saloon garb and there’s sawdust on the floor. (June 5, 2024)

I had the Gold Rush Nachos at the Red Dog Saloon in Juneau. I was hungry and they were tasty…tortilla chips, beef brisket, warm queso blanco, jalapeños and pico de gallo. (June 5, 2024)

Oh and I shoveled my Gold Rush Nachos at the Red Dog Saloon in Juneau with a nice, cold bottle of Alaskan White beer. (June 5, 2024)

Although six blocks of Skagway’s downtown is designated as a National Historic District, the very best part of Skagway for me was riding the White Pass & Yukon Route rail train created in 1896 during the Klondike Gold Rush.

But before enjoying Skagway on Thursday, I first had to get off the ship and onto the shore. This time we had to tender, a short distance, to the shore. Brought back memories of my Antartica adventure when we boarded the Zodiacs for transport on the shore excursions.

I got an early start in Skagway with a Skagway Alaska Street Car tour aboard a vintage-looking yellow street car on wheels. With that introduction, I walked around historic Skagway on my own, had a quick lunch and made my way to the superb show of the day…the White Pass & Yukon Route.

Also known as the WP&YR, this rail train service was created for and during the Klondike Gold Rush between 1896 and 1899 as a means of reaching the gold fields. But what it offers today is some stunning views during an almost 28-mile train ride from Skagway, Alaska to Fraser, British Columbia, Canada.

Skagway is our last port of call for the next two days at sea through Glacier Bay and the College Fjord, so come enjoy Skagway, its history and the magnificent train ride views.

Okay, a few days late on being welcomed to Alaska, but this is the “Welcome to Alaska” sign after taking the White Pass and Yukon Route sightseeing train tour from Skagway, Alaska to Fraser, British Columbia, Canada where we took the bus back to Skagway. (June 6, 2024)

For Skagway, we had to use a tender from the ship to the shore. A tender is a small boat that transports passengers and crew from the cruise ship to the shore when the ship can’t dock. (June 6, 2024)

Inside the almost empty tender first thing in the morning as I made my way to the shore for my Skagway Alaska Street Car tour. (June 6, 2024)

From the tender, I boarded the Skagway Alaska Street Car, a vintage-looking yellow street car on wheels for an early morning introduction tour of Skagway. (June 6, 2024)

And this is our colorful Skagway Alaska Street Car conductor, Andrew, who performed two Robert W. Service poems about the Gold Rush while also providing information and tales during our 90-minute ride around Skagway. (June 6, 2024)

We made two stops on the Skagway Alaska Street Car, first at this, the Gold Rush Cemetery. This was the first cemetery for the City of Skagway and many of the famous Gold Rush characters are interred here including local kingpin Jefferson “Soapy” Smith and early tourism promoter Martin Itjen.
Although we drove and did not stop in the historical downtown of Skagway, I did stop and walk through the town on my own. (June 6, 2024)

The Gold Rush Cemetery in Skagway. (June 6, 2024)

Back on our Skagway Alaska Street Car tour from the Gold Rush Cemetery to the Skagway Outlook. (June 6, 2024)

The Skagway Outlook, a great place to see the town and see the cruise ships in port. (June 6, 2024)

My selfie at the Skagway Outlook with the Pyramid Peaks in in the distance. (June 6, 2024)

The Pyramids Peaks overlooking the town of Skagway at the Skagway Outlook. (June 6, 2024)

Back in town on my own, I started my Skagway tour at the historic White Pass & Yukon Route Broadway Depot built in 1898. It is now home to the National Park Service Visitor Center in Skagway. (June 6, 2024)

An exterior window of the historic White Pass & Yukon Route Broadway Depot built in 1898. It is now home to the National Park Service Visitor Center in Skagway. (June 6, 2024)

A photo of men and their dogs seeking gold during the Gold Rush at the former White Pass & Yukon Route Broadway Depot, now home to the National Park Service Visitor Center in Skagway. (June 6, 2024)

An example of a safe for Klondike gold stored in safe inside the former White Pass & Yukon Route Broadway Depot built in 1898 and now home to the National Park Service Visitor Center in Skagway. (June 6, 2024)

Views along the main and historical street of Broadway in Skagway with a view of the mountains and cruise ship dock. Broadway is home to the heaviest concentration of 1897-98 historic buildings still standing. (June 6, 2024)

Of the many shops and jewelry stores along Broadway Street, I stopped in a couple of them, including Kirmse’s Curios. This building was owned by one family for 80 years. Herman Kirmse was a jeweler and watchmaker who opened this jewelry store in 1897. The National Park Service purchased the building and business in 1977. (June 6, 2024)

Inside Kirmse’s Curios on Broadway Street in Skagway. (June 6, 2024)

I really wanted to buy a small totem pole but the ones I saw were either carved in China or Indonesia. So, I opted not to buy one. (June 6, 2024)

I was surprised to see there was a quilt shop on Broadway Street in Skagway, Quilt Alaska. (June 6, 2024)

Inside Quilt Alaska on Broadway Street in Skagway. (June 6, 2024)

Had to get a close-up of this Black Bear quilt at the Quilt Alaska shop on Broadway Street in Skagway. Chances are this will be my only sighting of a Black Bear. The kit with pattern and fabric was only $80 USD. (June 6, 2024)

Two actresses dressed in their period costumes for the Days of ’98 Show, a Klondike Gold Rush–themed musical theater show performed in Eagles Hall in Skagway. I did not get a chance to see the show. (June 6, 2024)

“Prostitutes came to Skagway to seek fortunes, but few succeeded. They lived in tents, boarding houses, and cramped cribs such as this building. Some had to share their income with madams and pimps.
Others were brought here as from foreign countries and forced to pay their managers for the voyage. Prostitutes also suffered violent attacks in disputes with pimps, clients, or each other. Diseases and suicides took a toll, too,” from the National Park Service. (June 6, 2024)

The Red Onion Saloon on Broadway Street in Skagway was built during the height of the Klondike Gold Rush in 1897. It opened as a brothel in 1898. At one time there were 80 brothels in town. (June 6, 2024)

Inside the Red Onion Saloon on Broadway Street in Skagway. The restaurant has a Brothel Museum upstairs for $20 USD. Needless to say, I left my $20 in my pocket. (June 6, 2024)

Inside the Red Onion Saloon on Broadway Street in Skagway. (June 6, 2024)

Along Broadway Street, the main street in Skagway with its raised boardwalk sidewalk. At the left end of the street is the Red Onion Saloon and at the opposite end is the Arctic Brotherhood Hall. (June 6, 2024)

The Arctic Brotherhood Hall along Broadway Street in Skagway was a fraternal hall; the local chapter of the Brotherhood first met here in August 1899. The facade, which dates from 1900, has been called a prime example of Victorian Rustic Architecture. Lodge members collected over 8,800 driftwood sticks on the shores of Skagway Bay and nailed them to the front wall. (June 6, 2024)

Broadway Street in Skagway is home to the heaviest concentration of 1897-98 historic buildings still standing. (June 6, 2024)

Views along the main and historical street of Broadway in Skagway. (June 6, 2024)

A photo of what Broadway Street in Skagway once looked like from 1897. Skagway. In 1900, a journalist described it as “Broadway…is nothing more than a pair of black, muddy wagon-ruts winding around stumps in a rambling way into the woods.” (June 6, 2024)

The Skagway Centennial Statue commemorating the role of Alaska’s native Tlingit guides in the Klondike Gold Rush. (June 6, 2024)

Views of Skagway’s Inner Harbor. (June 6, 2024)

Stopped at the Skagway Fish Co. for their King Crab Bisque and a beer after my street car and person walking tour of Skagway. Needed to get a little something in my belly before getting on my next adventure, the White Pass and Yukon Railroad ride from Skagway, Alaska through to Fraser, British Columbia, Canada. (June 6, 2024)

My views during my quick lunch at the Skagway Fish Co. before my White Pass and Yukon Railroad ride from Skagway, Alaska through to Fraser, British Columbia, Canada. (June 6, 2024)

Our group of about 40 were bused to the Skagway Train Depot where we boarded our vintage passenger train car of the White Pass and Yukon Route (WP&YR) for the train ride from Skagway, Alaska through to Fraser, British Columbia, Canada. And yes, we had to show our passports in Canada during a quick stop. The train line was born of the Klondike Gold Rush of 1897. (June 6, 2024)

Inside the vintage passenger train car of the White Pass and Yukon Route (WP&YR) for the train ride from Skagway, Alaska through to Fraser, British Columbia, Canada. (June 6, 2024)

A map of the sites of the White Pass and Yukon Route (WP&YR) train ride from Skagway, Alaska through to Fraser, British Columbia, Canada. It is considered the “Scenic Railway of the World.” And this is just a small portion of the train ride which ultimately ends in Whitehorse, Canada.

And so began the stunning panoramic views of mountains, glaciers, gorges, waterfalls and tunnels along the almost 28-mile, 2 hours & 15 minutes train ride from Skagway to Fraser, Canada aboard the White Pass and Yukon Route (WP&YR) train ride. (June 6, 2024)

Views aboard the White Pass and Yukon Route (WP&YR) train ride in Skagway. (June 6, 2024)

Views approaching the Canadian border aboard the White Pass and Yukon Route (WP&YR) train ride from Skagway. (June 6, 2024)

Saying goodbye at the Fraser Train Station in Canada to my fabulous train ride on the White Pass and Yukon Route (WP&YR) train ride from Skagway, Alaska. Now to hop on the motor coach back to Skagway. (June 6, 2024)

The border crossing from Fraser, Canada back to the United States and Skagway, Alaska. (June 6, 2024)

Waiting in a long line for the tender boats back to the ship in Skagway. By this time, in the early evening, the temperatures had dropped and it was windy. (June 6, 2024)

Getting closer in line for the tender boats back to the ship in Skagway. (June 6, 2024)

I was hoping there was room on this tender for me and there was! Yay! (June 6, 2024)

Arrived at the Starboard or Right Side of the ship to climb the stairs into the ship. (June 6, 2024)

Back on the Nieuw Amsterdam having dinner and watching the tenders still working to bring passengers back to the ship for the 8:00 pm all aboard. Next is two days at sea through Glacier Bay and the College Fjord. (June 6, 2024)

At sea for two days through Glacier Bay on Friday and today through the College Fjord to Whittier, our last port, before the land cruise of the Denali National Park on Sunday and the end of this trip in Fairbanks early Tuesday morning.

But for now, it’s about glaciers and fjords.

Between the open bows on the different levels and the perfect views from our own starboard side stateroom we were treated to some sincerely spectacular views during the Glacier Bay journey on Friday under blue, chilly skies.

Glacier Bay National Park, a highlight of Alaska’s Inside Passage, is part of a 25-million acre World Heritage Site, 3.3 million for Glacier Bay. There are over 1,000 glaciers in Glacier Bay. Captain George Vancouver and his crew from the H.M.S. Discovery first surveyed Glacier Bay in 1794.

And, for today, Saturday, we cruised through the College Fjords, under cloudy skies and wind, along Prince William Sound off the Gulf of Alaska and into the Chugach Mountains for up close views of six glaciers. A fjord is a long, narrow sea inlet with steep sides or cliffs, created by a glacier. College Fjord was discovered in 1899 during the Harriman Expedition, at which time the glaciers were named.

I’ve also included a look at some interior shots of the Nieuw Amsterdam as my time on the ship comes to an end in Whittier on Sunday morning.

Me on the balcony of our stateroom with views of the Margerie Glacier, a 21 mi (34 km) long tidewater glacier in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve in Alaska. (June 7, 2024)

The Park Rangers of the National Park Service, a U.S. Department of the Interior federal government agency, came on board the ship to provide commentary. (June 7, 2024)

On the bow or the front of the ship as we approach the Margerie Glacier, a 21 mi (34 km) long tidewater glacier in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve in Alaska. (June 7, 2024)

On the bow or the front of the ship as we approach the Margerie Glacier in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve in Alaska. (June 7, 2024)

A close-up of the Margerie Glacier in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve in the Gulf of Alaska. (June 7, 2024)

Beautiful views from our stateroom balcony on level 5 of the Nieuw Amsterdam ship of the Margerie Glacier in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve in Alaska. (June 7, 2024)

Views while cruising through Glacier Bay National Park in the Gulf of Alaska. (June 7, 2024)

Approaching the Johns Hopkins Glacier, a 12-mile (19 km) long glacier in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve in Alaska. (June 7, 2024)

The Johns Hopkins Glacier, a 12-mile (19 km) long glacier in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve in Alaska. (June 7, 2024)

From the balcony of our stateroom, 5033 on the starboard side of level 5, we really got to see some incredible views along Glacier Bay including this unnamed glacier, one of over 1,000 in Glacier Bay.(June 7, 2024)

The College Fjord map in the Prince William Sound and the glaciers named after colleges, from researchgate.net. During our two days at sea, the College Fjord views were today, Saturday.

In the College Fjord in the Prince William Sound of Alaska with views of the five glaciers, from left to right, Wellesley, Vassar, Bryn Mawr, Smith and Harvard. A fjord is a long, narrow sea inlet with steep sides or cliffs, created by a glacier. College Fjord was discovered in 1899 during the Harriman Expedition, at which time the glaciers were named. (June 8, 2024)

Views of the College Fjord and the glaciers from the level 7 of the ship’s bow. (June 8, 2024)

Views of the College Fjord and the glaciers from the level 7 of the ship’s bow; with views of the Harvard (left) and Yale (right) glaciers. (June 8, 2024)

The College Fjord with the two largest tidewater glaciers, the Harvard Glacier (left) and the Yale Glacier (right). A tidewater glacier is a glacier that flows from the mountains and into the sea, where it usually breaks off into icebergs. (June 8, 2024)

Wellesley, Vassar and Bryn Mawr glaciers of the College Fjord in Prince William Sound, Alaska. (June 8, 2024)

The Wellesley Glacier of the College Fjord in Prince William Sound, Alaska.(June 8, 2024)

The Harvard Glacier is the largest glacier in College Fjord and the second-largest tidewater glacier in Prince William Sound. A tidewater glacier is a glacier that flows from the mountains and into the sea, where it usually breaks off into icebergs. (June 8, 2024)

The Yale Glacier, to the right of the Harvard Glacier, the second largest tidewater glacier in College Fjord. A tidewater glacier is a glacier that flows from the mountains and into the sea, where it usually breaks off into icebergs. (June 8, 2024)

The 2nd level hallway aboard the Nieuw Amsterdam ship. (June 8, 2024)

The 1st, 2nd and 3rd levels aboard the Nieuw Amsterdam ship, with Guest Services on level 1 and the Dining Room on levels 2 and 3. (June 8, 2024)

The Dining Room, requiring reservations, on the 2nd level aboard the Nieuw Amsterdam ship. (June 8, 2024)

The Casino area on the 2nd level aboard the Nieuw Amsterdam ship. (June 8, 2024)

Art Gallery on Level 2 of the Nieuw Amsterdam ship. (June 8, 2024)

The elevator carpets on the ship provide us passengers with the correct day of the week…because at sea, one day can easily turn into another. (June 8, 2024)

Welcome to the World Stage on three levels of the ship for various shows, talks, etc. (June 8, 2024)

The World Stage on three levels of the ship for various shows, talks, etc. (June 8, 2024)

After a presentation of “A City on the Sea,” a behind-the-scenes look at life on board, at the World Stage, some of the many staff came to thank us, but actually, we thank them. There are more than 2,000 passengers on board with some 800 crew members tending to our needs. (June 8, 2024)

A good way to help us passengers find our way is this directory and ship map on every floor. (June 8, 2024)

The long hallway of staterooms on level 5, where our room is, aboard the Nieuw Amsterdam ship. (June 8, 2024)

Our stateroom 5033 on the starboard or right side of the ship and close to the front facing or bow of the ship. (June 8, 2024)

And one more look at our floating hotel room on Holland America’s Nieuw Amsterdam ship. I very much enjoyed having the balcony. (June 2, 2024)

Our sea journey has ended.

We’re off the ship and on land for good. After two days at sea, somehow I didn’t need to get my land legs. Maybe it’s because I’m a land locked earth urchin at heart and appreciate the land’s energy…well, that’s my story and I’m sticking with it.

Although I enjoyed seeing the cities along the Inside Passage and cruising through the Fjords to see the glaciers, I’m so grateful we’re on land.

There are also two pretty awesome things I enjoyed about cruising, not having to unpack and descent food to eat from our buffet style meals with all kinds of food to choose from to the sit down, menu with attentive service.

Once I figured out the ship’s floor plan, with help from the maps by each elevator, I realized we did well in picking our stateroom. It was in a very good location on the ship, the 5th level, in the middle and towards the aft.

This next to last leg of my Alaskan cruise was the 9-1/2 hrs. McKinley Explorer Train ride from Whittier, where our ship docked, to and through the Denali National Park for a night at

the McKinley Chalet Resort, owned by Holland America.

Here’s to a beautiful day on land from our McKinley Explorer Train 9-1/2 hrs. ride on an absolutely beautiful day with truly stunning views.

Rosie and me on the McKinley Explorer Train from our Holland America cruise ship, the Nieuw Amsterdam to the Denali National Park for the night. It’s was a 9-1/2 hrs. train ride on an absolutely beautiful day with truly stunning views. Although the weather did not start out quite so lovely, it definitely changed and got so much better. (June 9, 2024)

Morning views of Whittier, Alaska, from our stateroom balcony on the Nieuw Amsterdam where we disembark the ship for the last time to begin our daylong ride on the McKinley Explorer Train. (June 9, 2024)

Disembarking the Nieuw Amsterdam for the very last time in Whittier, Alaska. We disembarked in groups that began disembarking the ship at around 6:30 a.m. Our group, E, was called to disembark the ship at around 7:20 a.m. (June 9, 2024)

Just taking a look back at the Nieuw Amsterdam ship docked in Whittier, Alaska, as I made my way to the McKinley Explorer Train. (June 9, 2024)

Trying to get a photo as I’m walking through the covered walkway to get on the McKinley Explorer Train starting in Whittier. (June 9, 2024)

Okay, one more look back at the Nieuw Amsterdam ship docked in Whittier, Alaska, as I made my way to the McKinley Explorer Train. (June 9, 2024)

Walking towards our next stop, the McKinley Explorer Train waiting for us on the other side of the canopy in Whittier, Alaska. (June 9, 2024)

Our McKinley Explorer Train in Whittier, Alaska. Our train car was the last one or the caboose which provided us with great views on the back of the car’s observation deck. (June 9, 2024)

The map of our 9-1/2 hrs. journey on the McKinley Explorer Train from our Holland America cruise ship, the Nieuw Amsterdam in Whittier to the McKinley Chalet in the town of Healy and the Denali National Park for the night. (June 9, 2024)

Inside our McKinley Explorer Dome Train car while still waiting for passengers to board from our Nieuw Amsterdam/Holland America cruise ship. McKinley Explorer rail cars seat 86 to 88 passengers in the upper level dome. We were assigned row 17 seats A & B. Each passenger has a reserved seat and the large curved glass dome windows run the full length of the car, offering 360 degree views. Seating is comfortable, with foot rests and fold down tray tables. Each car, like ours, had its own host guide. Our wonderful and entertaining guide, Nanu, provided us with great commentary on our trip and pointed out good photo opps. There was also a full bar service with Eddie, our ‘Conductor of Cocktails’ who attended to all of our drinking needs. (June 9, 2024)

Inside our McKinley Explorer Dome Train car. (June 9, 2024)

The dining room area downstairs inside our McKinley Explorer Train car where meals are served. (June 9, 2024)

On our way as we pass through our first tunnel on our McKinley Explorer Train journey. (June 9, 2024)

Getting started on our McKinley Explorer Train journey under cloudy, rainy, gray skies. (June 9, 2024)

Views along our 9-1/2 hrs. McKinley Explorer Train journey from Whittier to Healy, Alaska, near Denali National Park. Skies are still cloudy, gray and rainy. (June 9, 2024)

Views along our 9-1/2 hrs. McKinley Explorer Train journey from Whittier to Healy, Alaska, near Denali National Park. (June 9, 2024)

A beautiful rainbow along our McKinley Explorer Train journey from Whittier to Healy, Alaska, near Denali National Park. (June 9, 2024)

Getting in a photo with the beautiful rainbow from the observation deck on our McKinley Explorer Train journey from Whittier to Healy, Alaska, near Denali National Park. (June 9, 2024)

Views from the observation deck of our car along our 9-1/2 hrs. McKinley Explorer Train journey from Whittier to Healy, Alaska, near Denali National Park. (June 9, 2024)

The skies are clearing as seen from the upper level dome of our train car along our 9-1/2 hrs. McKinley Explorer Train journey from Whittier to Healy, Alaska, near Denali National Park. (June 9, 2024)

Views from the open obsservation deck on the back of our train car along our 9-1/2 hrs. McKinley Explorer Train journey from Whittier to Healy, Alaska, near Denali National Park. (June 9, 2024)

Cloud covered mountain top view of the Denali Mountain range as we pass through Talkeetna, Alaska, on our way to Healy near the Denali National Park. Known formerly as Mount McKinley, it is considered as the highest mountain peak in North America. (June 9, 2024)

As we move along, the clouds have lifted off the Denali Mountain range as we pass through Talkeetna, Alaska, on our way to Healy near the Denali National Park. Known formerly as Mount McKinley, it is considered as the highest mountain peak in North America. (June 9, 2024)

Views of the tall tree forest along our 9-1/2 hrs. McKinley Explorer Train journey from Whittier to Healy, Alaska, near Denali National Park. (June 9, 2024)

The tall dead-looking spruce trees, along the forest of tall trees close to the train tracks, on our McKinley Explorer Train journey from Whittier to Healy, Alaska, near the Denali National Park. Spruce bark beetles are eating the trees from the inside creating a hollow, dry and weak tree that eventually falls over. (June 9, 2024)

One last view of the Denali Mountain along our McKinley Explorer Train journey to Healy, Alaska near the Denali National Park. (June 9, 2024)

Views from inside our dome train car as we are getting closer to our final destination, the McKinley Chalet in Healy, Alaska, close to the Denali National Park. (June 9, 2024)

Our guide, Nanu, who provided great information and was quite entertaining on our McKinley Explorer Train journey. (June 9, 2024)

Arriving at the train station in Healy, Alaska, for our one night stay at the McKinley Resort near the Denali National Park. (June 9, 2024)

Saying goodbye to our really wonderful McKinley Explorer Train ride here in Healy, Alaska, for our night at the McKinley Chalet also owned by Holland America. (June 9, 2024)

After our train ride, it’s time to board the bus to the McKinley Chalet in Healy, Alaska, just a few minutes away. Our luggage was taken in advance to the McKinley Chalet and our hotel room. (June 9, 2024)

Entering the McKinley Chalet in Healy, Alaska.
When we arrived at the McKinley Chalet, we were dropped off by where our assigned rooms were supposed to be. When Rosie and I finally found our room, with our luggage inside, it wasn’t a room with two beds for two singles. Instead, it was a king bed. When we called customer relations, we were told that the room actually has two beds. The sofa opens up into a bed. By this time, I was tired and hungry. And, the sofa bed just wasn’t going to fly with me. And, thankfully, we finally made headway and found someone who was determined to get us a room with two beds, but we had to wait.
So, while waiting for our room, Rosie and I walked across the street from the McKinley Chalet to have dinner and after dinner, we picked up our new room keys and took the chalet bus to where our room was located. And fortunately, our luggage was waiting for us again. (June 9, 2024)

This was a short, two week trip and I am ready to go home. We spent the night at the McKinley Chalet Resort, owned by Holland America, before taking a late afternoon coach bus ride to Fairbanks where we ended our stay in Alaska.

Although Alaska is a beautiful state and I’m glad I got to see it on this cruise, I can’t say it’s a place I would come back to. Seeing the glaciers at Glacier Bay was a highlight for me. Stopping at the cruise ports of the various cities was just a little too rushed and also packed with people. There was no spending the night on land in the cities and being able to get out before the crowds. But that’s not Alaska’s fault.

Plus, one thing I could not get away from is the push to shop, even on board the ship. Jewelry store merchants in the cruise port cities stood outside their shop doors encouraging people to come in and get their ‘free’ little trinket. I thanked them and just kept on moving. And, on board the ship, what I thought was a session on things to do at a cruise port stop was actually about places to go shop. Again, not Alaska’s fault. I just felt there was no place to go to escape the bombardment of people trying to get my money for things I don’t want and definitely don’t need.

And, last was the McKinley Chalet Resort in the city of Healy, Alaska by the Denali National Park which we did not get to until a little after 7:00 p.m. from our wonderful McKinley Explorer Train ride. After being picked up by school bus at the train station and whisked just a few minutes to the resort, Rosie and I ended up with a room with one bed and an unmade sofa bed. Thankfully resort staff worked diligently to get us a two-bed room which gave us time to find a place to eat across from the resort. This place felt like it was, a stopover and nothing special. I guess the special thing about the resort is its close proximity to the Denali National Park and the shuttle service it provides to and from the resort and park.

Okay, I’m done with my gripe session. Time to move on.

It turned out to be a decent-looking, but cool day to do a little exploring of the Denali National Park, which is exactly what Rosie and I did before boarding our coach bus to Fairbanks to end our Alaska journey.

Rosie and I stayed here at the Canyon Lodge at the McKinley Chalet Resort in Healy, Alaska, owned by Holland America. It was a pretty good distance from the center of the resort, the Denali Square and the Main Lodge where we catch the shuttle bus to visit the Denali National Park. But a shuttle service is provided inside the resort for transporting people around the resort. (June 10, 2024)

Inside the main lounge area of the Canyon Lodge at the McKinley Chalet Resort in Healy, Alaska, where Rosie and I stayed for one night. (June 10, 2024)

Our 2nd floor room at the Canyon Lodge of the McKinley Chalet Resort in Healy, Alaska. (June 10, 2024)

Waiting to take the shuttle bus from the Main Lodge area of the McKinley Chalet Resort into the Denali National Park. (June 10, 2024)

After being dropped off at one of the entrances to the Denali National Park, we headed to the visitor center. (June 10, 2024)

Inside the Denali National Park visitor center. (June 10, 2024)

Looking down into an exhibits hall at the Denali National Park visitor center. (June 10, 2024)

The exhibition hall at the Denali National Park visitor center. (June 10, 2024)

This was as close as I came to seeing a brown bear displayed at the Denali National Park visitor center. (June 10, 2024)

Didn’t get to see a moose either except for here at the Denali National Park visitor center. (June 10, 2024)

Views inside the Denali National Park from the shuttle bus ride to the Savage River. In 1917, Congress recognized the special nature of this place by setting aside two million acres to create a national park. In 1980, legislation expanded the park and designated those two million acres, now at the heart of Denali, as “Wilderness.” These lands make up one of the largest continuously protected areas in the world. They are among the least-disturbed wild lands in America, appearing much as they did centuries ago. (June 10, 2024)

Views inside the Denali National Park from the shuttle bus ride to the Savage River. (June 10, 2024)

Me at the Savage River inside the Denali National Park with views of the Savage Rock in the distance. (June 10, 2024)

The Savage River inside the Denali National Park with views of the Savage Rock in the distance. (June 10, 2024)

The bridge across the Save River inside the Denali National Park. The first bridge across the river was built in 1925 using timbers hauled on a horse-drawn sleigh. The park built a concrete replacement in 1951, followed by the current concrete bridge installed in 1982. (June 10, 2024)

Views along the Savage Canyon Trail by the Savage River in the Denali National Park. (June 10, 2024)

A possible sighting of the Denali Mountain through the forest and in the distance as we made our way back through the Denali National Park to the vistor center and then to the McKinley Chalet Resort to hop on our bus to Fairbanks. (June 10, 2024)

Back at the McKinley Chalet Resort to gather our belongings for the 3-hour bus ride to Fairbanks. (June 10, 2024)

Lining up for our 3-hour motor coach ride from the McKinley Chalet Resort in Healy to Fairbanks, Alaska, for the night before heading back home to Dallas in the morning. (June 10, 2024)

Goodbye McKinley Chalet Resort in Healy, Alaska, as we make our way to Fairbanks, Alaska, for the final stop of our Alaska curise and land journey. (June 10, 2024)

On our way to Fairbanks, we stopped at the Tatlanika Campground and Gift Shop in Nenana, Alaska, to use the toilet and buy some snacks or last minute souvenirs. (June 10, 2024)

The colorful and decorated entrance of the Tatlanika Gift Shop on the Tatlanika Campground in Nenana, Alaska. (June 10, 2024)

Inside the Tatlanika Gift Shop on the Tatlanika Campground in Nenana, Alaska. (June 10, 2024)

I finally found a small totem pole made by an Alaskan artisan and not made in China at the Tatlanika Gift Shop on the Tatlanika Campground in Nenana, Alaska. My hand carved totem is made of old growth Native yellow cedar grown in the rain forests of Southeast Alaska. (June 10, 2024)

Our hotel for our last night in Alaska, the Westmark Hotel in Fairbanks. (June 10, 2024)

Our very comfy hotel room at the Westmark Hotel in Fairbanks for our last night in Alaska. (June 10, 2024)

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1

Lisa on August 4, 2024 at 1:41 pm

Hello I found you by chance on a google search on St. Moritz/St. Maurice. My husband and I are about to do this same cruise in September, but in reverse. Glad I found your review. We were also suspicious of what seemed like pushing people into just buying stuff at the stops. I didn’t realize the ship was that pushy. We hoped that we would get good views of nature, Denali, wildlife etc. we are excited about our trip. Looking forward to your next post. Have you been to Kenya, Ghana, or Tanzania? We are planning a trip next year to South Africa, will look to see if you have a post on S.A.
- 2
  
  Diana Petterson on August 4, 2024 at 11:09 pm
  
  Hi Lisa! Happy you found my website. Alaska is beautiful but please don’t be concerned about the stuff buying…it can be avoided. I am heading to Kenya, Tanzania and several African countries in the fall. I’ve already been to South Africa. You can find my travels in South Africa by using the search mechanism on my website.Thanks so much for following along.