Tajikistan: From a family dinner through the mountains, lakes and capital city of Dushanbe

Tajikistan

Day 11 – Crossing the Border from Uzbekistan to Tajikistan

After a quick half day and night in Tashkent, Uzbekistan, we were on the road again after breakfast to cross the Uzbek border into Tajikistan before arriving in Khujand, an ancient city believed to have been founded by Alexander the Great (Macedonian) around the 6th century BC.

During Soviet Rule (1920–1991), Khujand was called Leninabad. Tajikistan’s second city occupies the left bank of the Syr-Darya River and is surrounded by mountains.

Tajikistan is also the home country of our wonderful Intrepid leader, Jam, and his family whom we were treated to Plov-making lessons and sharing this meal and more with his family. Before cooking and dining together, our group spent the afternoon checking out the sites around Khujand’s Registan Square. Those sites included the new and old Masjidi Jami Mosque, the expansive Panjshanbe Bazaar and the Historical Museum of Sughd.

But the highlight of the day and evening was learning and helping Jam’s father, Mirzo-Isobek, prepare and cook Plov for our dinner. Plov is a traditional and popular rice dish with lamb that is typically cooked in a large, heavy-bottomed pot called a kazan over an open flame.

Here’s to dinner with the family and a look at Khujand, Tajikistan.

This is how we ended our first day in Tajikistan, dinner with the family. Our Intrepid tour leader’s family in Khujand, and what a warm-hearted time with a delicious home cooked meal. Photo by Liz Ko. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Our group exchanging money with some money exchangers before crossing the border in Tajikistan. (Sept. 18, 2023)

In our new van, after crossing the border into Tajikistan, our Intrepid group leader, Jam, introduced us to his eldest niece, Mehriniso, who is studying English in college. (Sept. 18, 2023)

And, one of the first things we did after closing the border into Tajikistan was to eat at Hogupa in Khujand. (Sept. 18, 2023)

I’m in love with the soups so far in Central Asia. I loved Mastava, the traditional lamb, rice and vegetable soup in Uzbekistan and now Mastoba, the Tajik lamb soup. After the lamb has been fried with onions, tomatoes and carrots, rice and potatoes are added and then covered with water and spices. (Sept. 18, 2023)

After lunch, we checked into our Khujand-Deluxe Hotel before getting out to explore the city. (Sept. 18, 2023)

The hallway inside my rather large hotel room at the Khujand-Deluxe Hotel in Khujand, Tajikistan. (Sept. 18, 2023)

The living room area of my rather large hotel room at the Khujand-Deluxe Hotel in Khujand, Tajikistan. (Sept. 18, 2023)

The bedroom area of my rather large hotel room at the Khujand-Deluxe Hotel in Khujand, Tajikistan. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Our first stop in Khujand, after checking into our hotel room, was a walk through the expansive Panjshanbe Bazaar and the new and old Masjidi Jami Mosque in Khujand . (Sept. 18, 2023)

The Sheikh Muslihiddin Mausoleum, located on Registan Square, the large memorial complex located in the historical area of Khujand by the new and old Masjid Jami Mosque and the expansive Panjshanbe Bazaar. (Sept. 18, 2023)

The new and old Masjidi Jami Mosque located on Registan Square, in the historical part of Khujand by the Sheikh Muslihiddin Mausoleum and the expansive Panjshanbe Bazaar. (Sept. 18, 2023)

The new Masjidi Jami Mosque in the historical part of Khujand. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Inside the new Masjidi Jami Mosque in the historical part of Khujand. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Next to the new Masjidi Jami Mosque, in the historical part of Khujand, is this, the oldest Masjidi Jami Mosque whose intricate ceiling and carved-wood columns dates back to the 16th century. The old mosque, with its recessed ceiling squares in technicolored patterns, creates beautiful Islamic geometric designs. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Me inside the old Masjidi Jami Mosque in Khujand. (Sept. 18, 2023)

The old Masjidi Jami Mosque in Khujand whose intricate ceiling and carved-wood columns dates back to the 16th century. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Fruit vendors in the Registan Square of the expansive Panjshanbe Bazaar in Khujand, Tajikistan. (Sept. 18, 2023)

A garlic vendor in the Registan Square of the expansive Panjshanbe Bazaar in Khujand, Tajikistan, with a view of the mountains in the background. (Sept. 18, 2023)

A fruit vendor in the Registan Square of the expansive Panjshanbe Bazaar in Khujand, Tajikistan. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Registan Square and the enormous Panjshanbe Bazaar in Khujand, Tajikistan. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Me at the Panjshanbe Bazaar in Khujan, Tajikistan. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Inside the very busy Panjshanbe Bazaar in Khujan, Tajikistan. (Sept. 18, 2023)

The Historical Museum of Sughd inside the Khujand Fortress which was reconstructed in 1999. The museum opened up for us which meant we were the only people in this small regional history museum. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Inside the Historical Museum of Sughd in Khujand where modern marble mosaics depict the life of Alexander the Great (356-323 B.C.) who was the conqueror of Persia and the king of Macedon. He succeeded in forging the largest Western empire of the ancient world. (Sept. 18, 2023)

This modern marble mosaic inside the Historical Museum of Sughd in Khujand is part of a series of mosaics depicting the life of Alexander the Great. This specific mosaic depicts the warrior’s funeral procession showing his hand dangling empty as he had reputedly requested, showing he had conquered half the world but went to his grave with nothing. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Inside the Historical Museum of Sughd in Khujand. (Sept. 18, 2023)

A statue of Timur Malik, inside the Historical Museum of Sughd. The governor of Khujand, Timur Malik was famous for his valiant effort to resist the Mongol invasion in 1219 and 1220, even though he was ultimately unsuccessful in his defense of Khujand. He died in 1220 defending the city against the Mongols. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Making our way into the family home of our Intrepid tour leader, Jam’s, family in Khujand for dinner, home cooked Plov by Jam’s father, holding the flowers, Mirzo-Isobek. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Jam’s father, Mirzo-Isobek, demonstrating his cutting techniques for the Plov, a traditional rice dish, which he is preparing for our dinner. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Our group pitching in as sous chefs to help cut the ingredients for our Plov dinner at the family home of our Intrepid tour leader, Jam, in Khujand. Some of the ingredients include carrots, onions, garlic cloves, chick peas, rice and lamb. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Getting in a selfie while many of my travel companions and the family cut up the ingredients for the Plov. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Our Intrepid tour leader, Jam’s father, Mirzo-Isobek, preparing to cook our Plov dinner. Plov is a traditional and popular rice dish with lamb that is typically cooked in a large, heavy-bottomed pot called a kazan over an open flame. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Mirzo-Isobek, our Intrepid tour leader’s father and chef for our dinner of Plov, a popular and delicious rice dish, begins with cooking the lamb in a typically large, heavy-bottomed pot called a kazan over an open flame. (Sept. 18, 2023)

There’s nothing better than watching your dinner cook on a large pot over an open flame at a wonderful family’s home in Khujand, Tajikistan. Photo by Liz Ko. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Some of the women of this wonderful family of our Intrepid guide, Jam, in their kitchen. The middle niece, Muzdalifakhon; Jam’s mother, Tursunoy; sister-in-law and Mom of the nieces, Munzifa and the youngest niece, Zahrokhon. Photo by Liz Ko. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Our beautifully set dinner table at the family home of our Intrepid tour leader, Jam, in Khujand, Tajikistan. (Sept. 18, 2023)

As I have mentioned before, I am love with the soups in Central Asia including this home made soup to curb our hunger as we waited for the Plov, our main course, which takes about two hours to cook. (Sept. 18, 2023)

The last item to enter the large pot of the cooking Plov is the rice and it is placed on the top. (Sept. 18, 2023)

The beautiful nieces: Mehriniso, Muzdalifakhon and Zahrokhon. (Sept. 18, 2023)

The Plov is done and the nieces/granddaughters dressed in their beautiful traditional clothing help their grandfather prepare the Plov for serving. (Sept. 18, 2023)

The rather delicious and quite tasty homemade Plov, a traditional and popular rice dish with lamb that is typically cooked in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over an open flame. It took about two hours to cook and was so worth the wait. ((Sept. 18, 2023)

Our group and family photo at the family home of our Intrepid leader in Khujand. This family dinner was an absolute highlight of this journey for me. Thank you Jam and your family for opening your home and your hearts to us foreigners. We are so appreciative. Photo by Liz Ko. (Sept. 18, 2023)

Day 12 – Through the Epic Shahriston Pass to Iskanderkul Lake and Sary Tag for a Homestay

It was a long day of driving across the high-altitude highway of the Shahriston pass to Iskanderkul Lake named after Alexander the Great and continuing on to Sary Tag, a small mountain village in the heart of the Fann mountains for the night. Most of the country, more than 80%, is covered by mountains.

Bags and bags full of onions during a stop on our way to Iskanderkul Lake. (Sept. 19, 2023)

Views along our drive to Iskanderkul Lake. (Sept. 19, 2023)

The Shahriston Tunnel, little more than 3-miles (5,252 meters) long through the mountains, on our drive to Iskanderkul Lake in Tajikistan. That’s our Intrepid dark gray van. (Sept. 19, 2023)

The Shahriston Tunnel, little more than 3-miles (5,252 meters) long through the mountains, on our drive to Iskanderkul Lake in Tajikistan. (Sept. 19, 2023)

Views along the high-altitude highway of the Shahriston pass to Iskanderkul Lake mainly known for its mountain views, winding roads and rivers. (Sept. 19, 2023)

Views along a stream and the high-altitude highway of the Shahriston pass to Iskanderkul Lake mainly known for its mountain views, winding roads and rivers. (Sept. 19, 2023)

Our wonderful Intrepid leader, Jam, and our driver A stop for snacks Views along the high-altitude highway of the Shahriston pass to Iskanderkul Lake mainly known for its mountain views, winding roads and rivers. (Sept. 19, 2023)

Stopped for a buffet lunch on the way to Iskanderkul Lake. (Sept. 19, 2023)

The Fann Mountains and stream on the way to Iskanderkul Lake. (Sept. 19, 2023)

Getting in a selfie at Fann Mountains and stream on the way to Iskanderkul Lake in Tajikistan. (Sept. 19, 2023)

The Fann Mountains and stream on the way to Iskanderkul Lake in Tajikistan. (Sept. 19, 2023)

A peek at the turquoise Iskanderkul Lake and the Fann Mountains in Tajikistan. (Sept. 19, 2023)

Iskanderkul Lake and the Fann Mountains in Tajikistan. (Sept. 19, 2023)

Walking towards the Iskanderkul waterfall and the through the stunning Fann Mountains in Tajikistan. (Sept. 19, 2023)

Getting in a selfie of the 1.9-mile trail near to the Iskanderkul Waterfall, also known as the Fann Niagara of Tajikistan, with stunning views of the Fann Mountains and gorgeous turquoise stream. (Sept. 19, 2023)

It took me awhile and I was the last one to do so, but I finally reached the Iskanderkul Waterfall hidden in a narrow rocky gorge of the Fann Mountains. Standing on the platform, I could feel the power of the waterfall. (Sept. 19, 2023)

It took me awhile and I was the last one to do so, but I finally reached the Iskanderkul Waterfall hidden in a narrow rocky gorge of the Renn Mountains. Standing on the platform, I could feel the power of the waterfall. (Sept. 19, 2023)

The stream from the Iskanderkul waterfall, known locally as the “Fann Niagara” through the Fann Mountains in Tajikistan. (Sept. 19, 2023)

The turquoise Iskanderkul Lake in the Fann Mountains of Tajikistan. (Sept. 19, 2023)

Our Sary Tag mountain village homestay, for the night, was located on the other end of Iskanderkul Lake in the heart of the Fann Mountains. (Sept. 19, 2023)

My multi-share room at our Say Tag mountain village homestay for the night. I shared my room with Imelda. It was a pretty chilly night but the thick blankets kept me rather warm. (Sept. 19, 2023)

Our group shared bathroom at our Say Tag mountain village homestay for the night. (Sept. 19, 2023)

Dinner tables were set up just outside of our rooms at our Say Tag mountain village homestay for the night. (Sept. 19, 2023)

Day 13 – Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan

I had a front row seat in the van today as we made our way through the mountain roads over the Anzob Pass to Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan. A front row seat to a bumpy slow drive down the unpaved Fann Mountain path with stunning mountain views.

After getting to the outskirts of Dushanbe we stopped to get the van washed because dirty vehicles are frowned upon in the city before checking into our hotel and getting a bite to eat for lunch.

We spent the late afternoon, after getting checked into our hotel and lunch, getting to know a little bit of Dushanbe by visiting Hissor Fort, the former capital of the Eastern Bukhara province.

Me with the stunningly beautiful Fann Mountains of Tajikistan as my backdrop. (Sept. 20, 2023)

The colorful Fenn Mountains of Tajikistan. (Sept. 20, 2023)

The bend in the creek with the turquoise stream and the beautiful Fann Mountains as we made our way from the mountain village of Sary Tag to the capital city of Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

The rocky, bumpy and unpaved roads on our drive to the capital city of Dushanbe from the mountain village of Sary Tage with stunning views of the Fann Mountains. (Sept. 20, 2023)

The Fann Mountains of Tajikistan. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Iskanderkul Lake and the beautiful Fann Mountains of Tajikistan. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Sharing the tight rocky and bumpy roads with big trucks on the way to the capital of Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

The rocky and bumpy roads on the way to the capital city of Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Passing a village along the rocky and bumpy roads on the way to the capital city of Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Views on the drive to the capital city of Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

The Anzob Tunnel, a little more than 3-miles or 5,040 meters long tunnel of the M34 highway. It is known for its very bad to no lightning in certain part of the tunnel and lack of ventilation. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Inside the The Anzob Tunnel, a little more than 3-miles or 5,040 meters long tunnel of the M34 highway. It is known for its very bad to no lightning in certain part of the tunnel and lack of ventilation. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Tunnels on our way to the capital city of Dushanbe along with beehive trucks along the road. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Beehives along the road to Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

A small tunnel on the way to Dushanbe, the capital city of Tajikistan. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Entering the outskirts of Dushanbe, the capital city of Tajikistan. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Our driver stopped to get our dark gray van washed before we could arrive into the capital city of Dushanbe. Evidently dirty vehicles are frowned upon in the city center. (Sept. 20, 2023)

The highway into Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Views of Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Views of the Independence Monument in Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Views of Dushanbe apartments with the portrait of the Tajik President, Emomali Rahmon. He is a Tajik politician who has been serving as the 3rd president of Tajikistan since 16 November 1994. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Arriving at our hotel, the Rohat (Poxat) Hotel, for our 2-night stay in Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Getting checked into our rooms at the Rohat (Poxat) Hotel, for our 2-night stay in Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

My room at the Rohat (Poxat) Hotel, for our 2-night stay in Dushanbe. The room looks deceivingly descent, but there were rodents of some kind in the walls close to the bathroom. I tried to get out of this room, but according to the management the hotel was booked full. That was a lie. I think, like this one, the other rooms were in poor conditions. I ended up only spending one night in this room and switched rooms with our Intrepid tour leader, Jam, who let me know that anytime I have a problem with my room, I should contact him first. Thanks Jam for putting up with the critters in the room walls. (Sept. 20, 2023)

My quick lunch at the Citir-Usta restaurant in Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

The Hisor Fortress on a hilltop of the Hisor Valley overlooks the town of Hisor, just outside of Dushanbe. It is considered one of the most historical buildings in Central Asia and was built 2500 years ago but has been demolished and rebuilt numerous times. However, the main gate was built in the 16th century. (Sept. 20, 2023)

The Hisor Fortress, with its impressive stone walls and commanding gateway on a hilltop of the Hisor Valley, overlooks the town of Hisor and is just outside of Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

One of the two towers at the main gate of the Hisor Fortress on a hilltop of the Hisor Valley overlooking the town of Hisor just outside of Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Inside the fortified walls of the Hisor Fortress with its ancient and modern shops beyond the main gates. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Inside the fortified walls of the Hisor Fortress. (Sept. 20, 2023)

The ancient and modern shops beyond the main gates of the Hisor Fortress on a hilltop of the Hisor Valley overlooking the town of Hisor, just outside of Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Inside the Hissor Fortress was this young woman so beautifully dressed. I just thought she looked so beautiful and asked if I could take her photo. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Inside the Hissor Fortress was this adorable young girl who did not speak but gestured to me, after seeing my small writing pad and pen, that she wanted to write. So, I gave her a piece of paper and a pen. She wasn’t exactly roaming around by herself, there seemed to be a young boy keeping an eye on her. (Sept. 20, 2023)

A view up high of the ancient and modern shops beyond the main gates of the Hisor Fortress on a hilltop of the Hisor Valley overlooking the town of Hisor, just outside of Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Inside the main gates of the Hisor Fortress. (Sept. 20, 2023)

The old Madrasa in the same complex of the Hisor Fortress, just outside of the capital city of Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

The exterior view of the old Madrasa in the same complex of the Hisor Fortress, just outside of the capital city of Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Entering the old Madrasa in the same complex of the Hisor Fortress, just outside of the capital city of Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Inside view of the old Madrasa, part of the Hisor Fortress complex. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Outside the old Madrasa, on the Hisor Fortress complex, are the remains of an early 1800s caravanserai, once a resting place for travellers/traders to safely rest for the night during their journey. It hints to Hisor’s past as a trading hub. Unfortunately, only the lower part of the caravanserai remains because the top portion was re-used by the Soviets to build a theater in Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

The remains of an early 1800s caravanserai next to the old Madrasa on the Hisor Fortress complex just outside of Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

A view of the Hisor Fortress after exiting the old Madrasa just outside the capital city of Dushanbe. (Sept. 20, 2023)

Day 14 – A Full Day in Dushanbe before saying ‘Goodbye’ to Tajikistan

It’s our only full day in Dushanbe, the capital city of Tajikistan, to see the highlights including the reclining Buddha in Nirvana at the National Museum of Antiquities of Tajikistan, the Rudaki Square and a few other landmarks before saying goodbye to both Dushanbe and Tajikistan.