Diana Petterson Asian Continent, Central Asia, Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan: And, its Ancient Cities along the Silk Road

Me at the Registan, the heart of ancient Samarkand with its three madrasas built during the Timurid Renaissance and considered to be true pinnacles of Islamic architecture. The three ornate, majolica-covered madrasas, dating from the 15th to 17th centuries, include the Ulugh Beg Madrasa (left), Sher-Dor Madrasa (right) and the Tilla-Kari Madrasa. Translated from Uzbek, “registan” means a sand place. In the ancient times, this central square was covered by sand. (Sept. 16, 2023)

Uzbekistan

Day 4 – Arriving in Khiva, Uzbekistan from Turkmenistan

Being in Uzbekistan felt so much different than being in Turkmenistan. For one thing, I could see people freely roaming Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. 

We arrived in Khiva, rather late in the afternoon, checked into our hotel, the Shahriston, and headed out for an evening walk and dinner at the Teahouse Farrukh. I was still getting over my upset stomach, but definitely feeling better and ready to eat a little something. 

It turned out to be a long day of driving where we saw some last minute sites in Turkmenistan before crossing the border into Uzbekistan and meeting our new Intrepid tour leader for the remainder of our tour, Jam. 

I have my T-Mobile cellular service in Uzbekistan, which I did not have in Turkmenistan and there are no restrictions when using WiFi which means I finally had access to the internet and my social media accounts. Plus, I was actually able to use an ATM to take out Uzbek money. There was an ATM machine in our hotel in Turkmenistan, but in all honesty, this is one time, I just did not trust it and chose instead to change USD for Turk money through our Turkmenistan Intrepid Tour group leader.

I can’t explain it, but it feels good not feel restricted and spied on. And, I’m loving the ancient feel of Khiva.

For now, here’s just a quick introduction to Khiva.

Entering our place for dinner, the Teahouse Farrukh in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 11, 2023)
Our group’s first dinner in Uzbekistan at the Teahouse Farrukh in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. From left: Liz, Imelda, Vikki, Jonny, Bethan, Nick, Spence, me, our new Intrepid group leader Jam and Kimberly. Photo by Liz Ko. (Sept. 11, 2023)
Liz showing off the flat bread during our dinner at the Teahouse Farrukh in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 11, 2023)
Spence and me during our group’s first night of dinner at the Teahouse Farrukh in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. Photo by Liz Ko. (Sept. 11, 2023)
A night’s view of Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 11, 2023)
A night’s view of Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 11, 2023)
Our home base, the Hotel Shahriston in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 11, 2023)
My room on the first floor of the Hotel Shahriston in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 11, 2023)
My bathroom at the Hotel Shahriston in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 11, 2023)

Day 5 – Khiva, Uzbekistan 

As one of the ancient cities situated along the Silk Roads, Khiva has been a center of education, science, and culture and served as a cradle of civilizations spanning millennia with ‘Ichan Kala’ inner city of the ancient oasis of Khiva is a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

Khiva is split into two parts. The outer town is called Dichan Kala and the inner town called Itchan Kala encircled by a bricked wall with 11 gates whose foundations are believed to have been laid in the 10th century. Present-day crenellated walls date back to the late 17th century. 

Let’s take a look at the the old walled city of Khiva.

Getting in a selfie with the caravan sculptures of the Silk Road in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The walls of Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva walled in Itchan Kala, established some 1500 years ago. The old town retains more than 50 historic monuments and 250 old houses, dating primarily from the 18th and 19th centuries. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The West Gate or Ota-Darvasa, the Father Gate leading into Itchcan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Muhammad, our Intrepid city guide for the day, standing in front of a map of Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Views of Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
A street in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Me at the Muhammad Amin-khan Madrasah and the blue-tiled Kalta Minor Minaret in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. Madrasahs were places of learning and this madrasah, which taught the Arabic language, mathematics and engineering, is one of 54 built inside the walls that specialized in a variety of disciplines. This madrasah was built in 1851. The minaret, behind me, is ornamented with belts of geometrical patterns of colored brick. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Inside the courtyard of the Muhammad Amin-khan Madrasah with the blue-tiled Kalta Minor Minaret behind it in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
There are statues throughout Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. This one is of two men enjoying time away from their families. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The exterior entrance to the Kunya-Ark or old fortress. the Khan’s (ruler) internal citadel in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. Construction began in 1686-1688 and the Ark became a ‘city within a city’ at the end of the 18th century, separated from Ichan Kala by a high wall. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The exterior entrance to the Kunya-Ark or old fortress. the Khan’s (ruler) internal citadel in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. Construction began in 1686-1688 and the Ark became a ‘city within a city’ at the end of the 18th century, separated from Ichan Kala by a high wall. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Inside the courtyard of the Kunya-Ark or old fortress was the Khan’s (ruler) internal citadel in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. This is one of the areas where the Kahn would greet his guests in the summer. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Inside the courtyard of the Kunya-Ark or old fortress was the Khan’s (ruler) internal citadel in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. This is one of the areas where the Kahn would greet his guests in the summer. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The gorgeous blue and white tile adorning the exterior courtyard of the Kunya-Ark or old fortress of the Khan’s internal citadel in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The Khan’s winter throne room for greeting guests inside the Kunya-Ark or old fortress of the Khan’s internal citadel in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. The fortress once consisted of the Khan’s office, a reception hall, the harem, a winter and summer mosque, a mint and subsidiary premises such as stables, warehouses and workshops. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Views of the walled city of Itchan Kala and beyond in Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Our group photo atop a roof in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. From left: Jam, our Intrepid group tour leader, Kimberly, Vikki, Nick, Scott, Imelda, Bethan, Jonny, me and Liz. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The Kunya-Ark or old fortress construction began in 1686-1688, and the Ark became “a city in a city” at the end of the 18th century, separated from Ichan-Kala by a high wall in Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
A wood carving artist demonstrates the uses of the collapsible wooden laukh, cut from a single piece of wood and carved without fasteners or hinges, as a book stand for the Quran at the Kunya-Ark or old fortress, in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The Kunya-Ark or old fortress construction began in 1686-1688, and the Ark became “a city in a city” at the end of the 18th century, separated from Ichan-Kala by a high wall in Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
A close-up of the entrance into the Kunya-Ark or old fortress which began construction in 1686-1688. The Ark became “a city in a city” at the end of the 18th century, separated from Ichan-Kala by a high wall in Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Inside the Kenya-Ark or old fortress with a variety of historical displays. (Sept. 12, 2023)
A photo display of Muhammad Rahim Khan I (1864-1910) in the Kenya-Ark or old fortress was said to be a philosopher and a poet. Most of the architectural monuments of the city were also built during his reign. An enlightened ruler, he gathered about 40 poets and composers and became the first to introduce lithography in Central Asia in 1874. He was the first ruler who strongly supported the development of photography and film art in Central Asia. (Sept. 12, 2023)
A photo of the founder of Uzbek cinematography Khudoybergan Devonov (1879-1940) exhibited at the Kenya-Ark or old fortress. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Views of Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
A street in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Views of Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
A street in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
A street in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Our tour group heading into the Juma Mosque, one of the principal monuments of Itchan Kala, the walled old city of Khiva. The mosque was first documented in the 10th century, but it was rebuilt in 1788. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Inside the Juma Mosque, one of the principal monuments of Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva with its 212 carved wooden columns for support. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Inside the Juma Mosque, one of the principal monuments of Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva with its 212 carved wooden columns for support. (Sept. 12, 2023)
One of the 212 carved wood columns inside the Juma Mosque, one of the principal monuments of Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Me inside the Juma Mosque, of Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva with its 212 carved wooden columns for support. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The road the Kahns used with the indents from their carriages still visible in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The residential palace of the Allah Kuli Khan Madrasah, one of the Khiva khans, was built in 1834-1835 in Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Inside the residential palace of Allah Kuli Khan Madrasah, one of the Khiva khans, was built in 1834-1835. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Inside the residential palace of Allah Kuli Khan Madrasah, one of the Khiva khans, was built in 1834-1835. (Sept. 12, 2023)
My selfie inside the residential palace of Allah Kuli Khan Madrasah, one of the Khiva khans, by the residence of the concubines. The Khan could have up to 40 concubines at a time. They could only be a concubine from ages 18 to 25. Plus the Khan had four wives. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The Allah Kuli Khan’s bedroom inside his Madrasah and residential palace where his concubines would be brought in to entertain him, which they are taught to do. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The Islam Khodja is considered the smallest madrasah with the tallest minaret inside Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The Islam Khodja is considered the smallest madrasah with the tallest minaret inside Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The Islam Khodja is considered the smallest madrasah with the tallest minaret inside Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The Islam Khodja is considered the smallest madrasah with the tallest minaret inside Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The handmade crafts for sale at a bizarre by the Islam Khodja Madrasah Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The handmade crafts for sale at a bizarre by the Islam Khodja Madrasah Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
The Islam Khodja is considered the smallest madrasah with the tallest minaret inside Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Lunch just outside the walls of Itchan Kala at the Khiva Moon Restaurant in Khiva. From left: Bethan, Jonny, Scott and me. (Sept. 12, 2023)
I ordered Plov, a traditional dish in Uzbekistan consisting of a long grain rice, pieces of lamb, onions, carrots and raisins. It’s also referred to as “pilaf” or “palov” at the Khiva Moon Restaurant in Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Plov, a traditional dish in Uzbekistan consisting of a long grain rice, pieces of lamb, onions, carrots and raisins. It’s also referred to as “pilaf” or “palov” at the Khiva Moon Restaurant in Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
Part of the bricked crenellated walls encircling the old town of Itchan Kala in Khiva. The foundations of the wall are believed to have been laid in the 10th century. Present-day crenellated walls date back to the late 17th century. (Sept. 12, 2023)
One of the four gates of the walled town of Itchan Kala in Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
A night view inside Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
A night view inside Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
A night view inside Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
A night view inside Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)
A night view of the West Gate just ousted the walls of Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva. (Sept. 12, 2023)

Day 6 – Leaving Khiva for Bukhara, Uzbekistan 

I have enjoyed our stay within the walls of Itchan Kala in modern-day Khiva.  But it is time to move on again to Bukhara, about a 10 hour drive, from Khiva. 

I’m not one who enjoys these long drives, but stops along the way do help. 

Founded no later than the 1st century BC, across its many years, Bukhara has been ruled by countless empires and dynasties which are reflected in the colorful culture.

Before leaving Khiva, I got out for a quick morning walk to the ATM in the Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva and saw this group of local men gathered in the square. (Sept. 13, 2023)
Before leaving Khiva, I got out for a quick morning walk to the ATM in the Itchan Kala, the old walled city of Khiva and saw this group of local men gathered in the square. (Sept. 13, 2023)
We actually stopped on our drive to Bukhara to pick some cotton. Uzbekistan is the sixth largest cotton producer in the world. Cotton is planted during April-early May and harvested in September. The plantations are concentrated in the periphery of Aydar Lake (near Bukhara, which we are heading towards) and also to some extent in Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan. (Sept. 13, 2023)
A cotton field in Uzbekistan on our way to Bukhara from Khiva. (Sept. 13, 2023)
Picking a couple of pieces of cotton in a field in Uzbekistan on our way to Bukhara. (Sept. 13, 2023)
A quick lunch stop on our bus ride to Bukhara from Khiva. (Sept. 13, 2023)
A quick lunch stop on our bus ride to Bukhara from Khiva. (Sept. 13, 2023)
My meal at our quick lunch stop on our bus ride to Bukhara from Khiva. (Sept. 13, 2023)
Arrivng in Bukhara, after a long day of driving. We left Khiva at 9:30 am and did not get to Bukhara until almost 6:00 pm. (Sept. 13, 2023)
Arrivng in Bukhara, after a long day of driving. We left Khiva at 9:30 am and did not get to Bukhara until almost 6:00 pm. (Sept. 13, 2023)
Arrivng in Bukhara, after a long day of driving. We left Khiva at 9:30 am and did not get to Bukhara until almost 6:00 pm. (Sept. 13, 2023)
Arrivng in Bukhara, after a long day of driving. We left Khiva at 9:30 am and did not get to Bukhara until almost 6:00 pm. (Sept. 13, 2023)
The courtyard and breakfast area of our hotel, the Salom Inn in Bukhara. (Sept. 13, 2023)
My room at the Salom Inn in Bukhara. (Sept. 13, 2023)
My room at the Salom Inn in Bukhara. (Sept. 13, 2023)
My room at the Salom Inn in Bukhara. (Sept. 13, 2023)
The square outside our hotel in Bukhara as we made our way to dinner. (Sept. 13, 2023)
Heading to dinner at the Joy Restaurant in Bukhara. (Sept. 13, 2023)
Our group to dinner at the Joy Restaurant in Bukhara. (Sept. 13, 2023)
I wasn’t really hungry, but I have enjoyed the soups in Uzbekistan, especially the Mastava here at the Joy Restaurant in Burkhara. (Sept. 13, 2023)

Day 7 – Bukhara and More of the Silk Road

Bukhara, situated on the Silk Route, is more than 2,000 years old and is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia. Officially the city was founded in 500 BC in the area now called the Ark. However, the Bukhara desert oasis had been inhabited long before.

Bukhara was already a major trade and crafts center along the famous Silk Road when it was captured by the Arab forces in 709.

Raisa, the 73-year old owner of our hotel, the Salom Inn, was our knowledgeable guide who is well known in the community and an incredible resource of information. 

Lets see Bukhara.

Our first stop in Bukhara was at the Ismail Samani Mausoleum erected as a family crypt immediately after the death of Ismail Samani’s father. Later, Ismail himself and his grandson Hasr were also buried in it. Built in the 10th century AD as the resting place of the powerful and influential Islamic Samanid dynasty that ruled the Samanid Empire from approximately 900 to 1000. The mausoleum is considered one of the iconic examples of early Islamic architecture and is known as the oldest funerary building of Central Asian architecture. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Our first stop in Bukhara was at the Ismail Samani Mausoleum erected as a family crypt immediately after the death of Ismail Samani’s father. Later, Ismail himself and his grandson Hasr were also buried in it. Built in the 10th century AD as the resting place of the powerful and influential Islamic Samanid dynasty that ruled the Samanid Empire from approximately 900 to 1000. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Inside the Ismail Samani Mausoleum in Bukhara was built in the 10th century AD as the resting place of the powerful and influential Islamic Samanid dynasty that ruled the Samanid Empire from approximately 900 to 1000. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Inside the Ismail Samani Mausoleum in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Local Bukhara women enjoying the morning and dressed modestly, mostly in long dresses. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The Bolo Haouz Mosque in Bukhara is a historical mosque built in 1712, on the opposite Ark Fortress citadel of the Ark in the Registan district and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with other parts of the historic city. The Ark Fortress was initially built and occupied around the 5th century AD. Bolo Haouz is a working mosque and we were unable to enter. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The entrance into the Bolo Haouz Mosque in Bukhara, a historical mosque built in 1712, opposite the Ark Fortress citadel. Bolo Haouz is a working mosque and we were unable to enter. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The Bolo Haouz Mosque in Bukhara, a historical mosque built in 1712, opposite the Ark Fortress citadel. Bolo Haouz is a working mosque and we were unable to enter. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The Bolo Houvz minaret in Bukhara was built 1916-1917. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Entrance to the Bolo Houvz minaret in Bukhara which was built 1916-1917. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Engraving on brass is one of the many crafts still in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The Bukhara Observation Tower and Restaurant in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The Ark Fortress of Bukhara is a massive fortress initially built and occupied around 500 AD. In addition to being a military structure, the Ark encompassed what was essentially a town that, during much of the fortress’s history, was inhabited by the various royal courts that held sway over the region surrounding Bukhara. The Ark was used as a fortress until it fell to Russia in 1920. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The entrance gate to the Ark Fortress in Bukhara. The fortress was established around 500 AD and was already the residence of local rulers. When the soldiers of Genghis Khan took Bukhara, the inhabitants of the city found refuge in the Ark Fortress but the conquerors smashed the defenders and ransacked the fortress. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The walls of the Ark Fortress in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The Diome Mosque or Friday mosque of the Ark Fortress in Bukhara was built in the early 1700’s during the reign of the emir SubhanKulikhan. A wooden gallery “ayvan” with wooden pillars surrounds the mosque from three sides. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Inside the Diome Mosque or Friday mosque of the Ark Fortress in Bukhara. It was built in the early 1700’s. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The wood beam ceiling and beautifully painted wood pillars inside the Diome Mosque or Friday mosque of the Ark Fortress in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
A close-up of a carved and colorfully painted wood pillar inside the Diome Mosque or Friday mosque of the Ark Fortress in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The courtyard of the Amir in the citadel of the Ark Fortress in Bukhara where he would sit on his throne and greet his guests. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Kimberly and me in the courtyard of the Amir inside the citadel of the Ark Fortress in Bukhara and standing where the Amir would sit on his throne and greet his guests. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The throne of the Amir at the citadel inside the Ark Fortress in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Entering into the interior courtyard of the Po-i-Kalan or Poi Kalan, which means “At the Foot of the Great One” Islamic religious complex in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The courtyard of the Islamic religious complex of Po-i-Kalan or Poi Kalan in Bukhara. The complex consists of three parts, the Kalan Mosque (Masjid-i Kalan), the Kalan Minaret (Minâra-i Kalân) to which the name refers, and the Mir-i-Arab Madrasah. The positioning of the three structures creates a square courtyard in its center, with the Mir-i-Arab and the Kalan Mosque standing on opposite ends. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The courtyard at Po-i-Kalyan, with the madrasa and minaret in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The courtyard at Po-i-Kalyan, with the madrasa and minaret in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The courtyard at Po-i-Kalyan, with the madrasa and minaret in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The courtyard at Po-i-Kalyan, with the madrasa and minaret in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The Trading Dome Toqi Zargaron (in some sources Taki Zargaron), the most extensive bazaar among the bazaars of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Inside one portion of the Trading Dome Toqi Zargaron (in some sources Taki Zargaron), the most extensive bazaar among the bazaars of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Inside one portion of the Trading Dome Toqi Zargaron (in some sources Taki Zargaron), the most extensive bazaar among the bazaars of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Inside one of the dome sections of the Trading Dome Toqi Zargaron (in some sources Taki Zargaron), the most extensive bazaar among the bazaars of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Inside one of the dome sections of the Trading Dome Toqi Zargaron (in some sources Taki Zargaron), the most extensive bazaar among the bazaars of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Old coins glued to the ground in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Old coins glued to the ground in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Walking through the Historic Center of Bukhara which is more than 2000 years old and situated along the Silk Roads. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Walking through the Historic Center of Bukhara which is more than 2000 years old and situated along the Silk Roads. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Inside a former caravanserai in Bukhara that was a roadside inn where travelers (caravaners) could rest and recover from the day’s journey. Caravanserais supported the flow of commerce, information and people across the network of trade routes covering Asia, North Africa and Southeast Europe, most notably the Silk Road. Presently it’s being used by local craft people.(Sept. 14, 2023)
Inside a former caravanserai in Bukhara that was a roadside inn where travelers (caravaners) could rest and recover from the day’s journey. Caravanserais supported the flow of commerce, information and people across the network of trade routes covering Asia, North Africa and Southeast Europe, most notably the Silk Road. Presently it’s being used by local craft people.(Sept. 14, 2023)
Inside a former caravanserai in Bukhara that was a roadside inn where travelers (caravaners) could rest and recover from the day’s journey. Caravanserais supported the flow of commerce, information and people across the network of trade routes covering Asia, North Africa and Southeast Europe, most notably the Silk Road. Presently it’s being used by local craft people.(Sept. 14, 2023)
Inside a former caravanserai in Bukhara that was a roadside inn where travelers (caravaners) could rest and recover from the day’s journey. Caravanserais supported the flow of commerce, information and people across the network of trade routes covering Asia, North Africa and Southeast Europe, most notably the Silk Road. Presently it’s being used by local craft people.(Sept. 14, 2023)
Inside a former caravanserai in Bukhara that was a roadside inn where travelers (caravaners) could rest and recover from the day’s journey. Caravanserais supported the flow of commerce, information and people across the network of trade routes covering Asia, North Africa and Southeast Europe, most notably the Silk Road. Presently it’s being used by local craft people.(Sept. 14, 2023)
Raisa, our local Bukhara guide, a 73-year-old woman is also the owner of our hotel, the Salom Inn Hotel. She is well known in the community and an incredible resource of information. Here in one of the small rooms of the former caravanserais, Raisa is explaining the extensive method of silk carpet weaving. This carpet weaver has worked on this carpet for three months but has four months to go to complete it. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Also in the former caravanserais in Bukhara, a metal worker, who can only work three hours a day on his craft because of the intensity and the glare of the bronze in his eyes, was showing us a piece he had been engraving for weeks. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Also in the former caravanserais in Bukhara, a metal worker, who can only work three hours a day on his craft because of the intensity and the glare of the bronze in his eyes, was showing us a piece he had been engraving for weeks. (Sept. 14, 2023)
A display of the beautiful metal carving work at the former caravanserais in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
A display of the beautiful metal locks at the former caravanserais in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
A small rug shop at the former caravanserais in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
A small dress shop with local garments at the former caravanserais in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
A display of local instruments at the former caravanserais in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The remains of a mosque from the 12th century in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The remains of a mosque from the 12th century in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Walking through the Historic Center of Bukhara which is more than 2000 years old and situated along the Silk Roads. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Walking through the Historic Center of Bukhara which is more than 2000 years old and situated along the Silk Roads. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Walking through the Historic Center of Bukhara which is more than 2000 years old and situated along the Silk Roads. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Walking through the Historic Center of Bukhara which is more than 2000 years old and situated along the Silk Roads. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Lunch at the Old Bukhara Restaurant just outside of historic city in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
This has turned out to be my favorite soup. It’s the delicious traditional soup called Mastava, an Uzbek rice soup, made with meat, rice and vegetables with a dollop of sour cream at the Old Bukhara Restaurant just outside of historic city in Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Entering the front gate of the Summer Palace of the last emirs, rulers, and located in the outskirts of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
Inside the garden area of the Summer Palace of the last emirs, rulers, and located in the outskirts of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The outer courtyard of the Summer Palace of the last emirs, rulers, located on the outskirts of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The White Hall waiting room entrance inside the Summer Palace of the last emirs, rulers, located on the outskirts of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
This embroidery-looking painting on the wall in the waiting room of White Hall inside the Summer Palace of the last emirs, rulers, located on the outskirts of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The White Hall inside the Summer Palace of the last emirs, rulers, located on the outskirts of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The gorgeous white walls of the White Hall inside the Summer Palace of the last emirs, rulers, located on the outskirts of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The Shatranja room inside the Summer Palace of the last emirs, rulers, located on the outskirts of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The sparkling and colorful tiles of the Banquet Hall inside the Summer Palace of the last emirs, rulers, located on the outskirts of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The sparkling and colorful tile roof of the Banquet Hall inside the Summer Palace of the last emirs, rulers, located on the outskirts of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The sparkling and colorful tiles of the Banquet Hall inside the Summer Palace of the last emirs, rulers, located on the outskirts of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The sparkling and colorful tiles of the Banquet Hall inside the Summer Palace of the last emirs, rulers, located on the outskirts of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The Tea Pavilion, now displaying Japanese vases inside the Summer Palace of the last emirs, rulers, located on the outskirts of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The Tea Pavilion, now displaying Japanese vases inside the Summer Palace of the last emirs, rulers, located on the outskirts of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The main building and pool of the Summer Palace of the last emirs, rulers, located on the outskirts of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The harem viewing platform at the Summer Palace of the last emirs, rulers, located on the outskirts of Bukhara. (Sept. 14, 2023)
And our last visit of the very full and wonderful day in Bukhara was to see this 4-towered Chor Minor, alternatively known as the Madrasah of Khalif Niyaz-kul, a historic gatehouse for the now-destroyed madrasah built by Khalif Niyaz-kul, a wealthy Bukharan of Turkmen origin in 1807. The Chor Minor was actually a complex of buildings with two functions, ritual and shelter. (Sept. 14, 2023)
And our last visit of the very full and wonderful day in Bukhara was to see this 4-towered Chor Minor, alternatively known as the Madrasah of Khalif Niyaz-kul, a historic gatehouse for the now-destroyed madrasah built by Khalif Niyaz-kul, a wealthy Bukharan of Turkmen origin in 1807. The Chor Minor was actually a complex of buildings with two functions, ritual and shelter. (Sept. 14, 2023)
And our last visit of the very full and wonderful day in Bukhara was to see this 4-towered Chor Minor, alternatively known as the Madrasah of Khalif Niyaz-kul, a historic gatehouse for the now-destroyed madrasah built by Khalif Niyaz-kul, a wealthy Bukharan of Turkmen origin in 1807. The Chor Minor was actually a complex of buildings with two functions, ritual and shelter. (Sept. 14, 2023)
The money of Uzbekistan. This is 1.5 million in Uzbek money which equals to about $124.00 USD which is used rather frequently in Bukhara. Most of my group, even those from other countries, brought USD with them to exchange in the various countries. I brought some USD but I tend to rely on the ATM machines to take out local money. (Sept. 14, 2023)

Day 8 – High Speed Train to Samarkand from Bukhara 

I woke up with a bubbly stomach and diarrhea. Thankfully I had prescription diarrhea medicine that did the trick. 

We left Bukhara in the late afternoon for Samarkand as planned but our Intrepid tour group leader, Jam, spent most of his time taking care of one of our tour members, David, who was staying behind because of a health issue.  because one of our tour members had to stay behind due to illness. 

Even though it was dark when we arrived in Samarkand, the very center of the ancient Silk Road, that didn’t stop us from visiting the Shakhi Zinda, the burial place of royal persons and nobles before heading to our hotel for the night. 

Here’s to a brief introduction to Samarkand. 

A group photo with our energetic and wonderful local guide and owner of our hotel, Raisa. Top standing, from left: Kimberly, Spence, me, Jonny, Vikki, Scott, Imelda. Seated from left: Liz, holding a souvenir plate that Raisa gave each of us, Nick, Raisa, David and Bethan. David ended up staying in Bukhara and going back home to Australia because he was not feeling well. (Sept. 15, 2023)
On our high-speed train, which honestly was not all that high speed, from Bukhara to Samarkand. Photo by Liz Ko. (Sept. 15, 2023)
Views from our high-speed train from Bukhara to Samarkand. (Sept. 15, 2023)
Views from our high-speed train from Bukhara to Samarkand. (Sept. 15, 2023)
Views from our high-speed train from Bukhara to Samarkand. (Sept. 15, 2023)
Arriving at the train station in Samarkand. (Sept. 15, 2023)
My selfie arriving at the train station in Samarkand. (Sept. 15, 2023)
Although it was dark by the time we arrived in Samarkand, our group stopped at the Shakhi Zinda complex, the burial place formed over eight centuries for royal persons and nobles. The necropolis features a series of blue-tiled mausoleums. This sacred site has some remains from as early as the 11th and 12th centuries but the 14th-19th century, reflecting the development of the monumental art and architecture of the Timurid dynasty onwards.  (Sept. 15, 2023)
Heading up the stairs into the necropolis of Shakhi Zinda in Samarkand. (Sept. 15, 2023)
The necropolis of Shakhi Zinda in Samarkand features a series of blue-tiled mausoleums grouped along narrow medieval streets. It is a sacred site from the 14th-19th century. (Sept. 15, 2023)
The necropolis of Shakhi Zinda in Samarkand features a series of blue-tiled mausoleums, a sacred site from the 14th-19th century. (Sept. 15, 2023)
The Tuman Oko Complex, part of the Shakhi Zinda necropolis complex in Samarkand, was built by Amir Temur’s wife and consists of two service rooms, a mosque and a mausoleum. (Sept. 15, 2023)
A chamber inside the Gate at the Shakhi Zinda necropolis complex in Samarkand. Consisting of a mosque, mausoleum and prayer room, this chamber for Kusam Abn Abbas, was said to be a cousin and close associate of the prophet Muhammad, founder of Islam and the proclaimer of the Qurʾān, Islam’s sacred scripture. Abbas was also one of the first missionaries of the Islamic religion in Central Asia. (Sept. 15, 2023)

 

The Octagonal Mausoleum, at the necropolis of Shakhi Zinda in Samarkand, was built in the 14th century. The sides are open and underneath is a hilhona (burial chamber) in the shape of a circle. (Sept. 15, 2023)
The necropolis of Shakhi Zinda features a series of various blue-tiled mausoleums grouped along the narrow medieval streets. (Sept. 15, 2023)
The necropolis of Shakhi Zinda features a series of blue-tiled mausoleums, a sacred site from the 14th-19th century. (Sept. 15, 2023)
The necropolis of Shakhi Zinda features a series of blue-tiled mausoleums, a sacred site from the 14th-19th century. (Sept. 15, 2023)
The Gate inside the Shakhi Zinda complex in Samarkand was made in the early 1400s, are considered to be the ‘doors to paradise that are open to the faithful.’ The complex consists of rows of refine sparkling blue colors tombs built one after another from the 14 – 19th centuries. (Sept. 15, 2023)
A chamber inside the Gate at the Shakhi Zinda necropolis complex in Samarkand. Consisting of a mosque, mausoleum and prayer room, this chamber for Kusam Abn Abbas, who was said to be a cousin and close associate of the prophet Muhammad, founder of Islam and the proclaimer of the Qurʾān, Islam’s sacred scripture. Abbas was also one of the first missionaries of the Islamic religion in Central Asia. (Sept. 15, 2023)
A close-up of the chamber inside the Gate at the Shakhi Zinda necropolis complex in Samarkand. Consisting of a mosque, mausoleum and prayer room, this chamber for Kusam Abn Abbas, who was said to be a cousin and close associate of the prophet Muhammad, founder of Islam and the proclaimer of the Qurʾān, Islam’s sacred scripture. Abbas was also one of the first missionaries of the Islamic religion in Central Asia. (Sept. 15, 2023)

Day 9 – Samarkand, center of the Silk Road and Jewel of Amir Temur 

Samarkand is the second largest city in Uzbekistan, among the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Central Asia and was an ancient center of trade for the Silk Road route linking China to the Mediterranean.

In the 14th century, Timur or Tamerlane made Samarkand the capital of his empire and the site of his mausoleum, the Gur-e Amir. The Bibi-Khanym Mosque, rebuilt during the Soviet era, remains one of the city’s most notable landmarks. And Registan Square was Samarkand’s center bordered by three monumental religious buildings. 

The carefully preserved  traditions of ancient crafts can be seen in the small market areas throughout the historical area of Samarkand including embroidery, goldwork, silk weaving, copper engraving, ceramics, wood carving and wood painting. We were even given an opportunity to see the art of paper making. 

Join me for a stroll through the historical sites of Samarkand’s Silk Road and the legacy of Amir Temur’s vision of his capital city.

Me at the Registan, the heart of ancient Samarkand with its three madrasas built during the Timurid Renaissance and considered to be true pinnacles of Islamic architecture. The three ornate, majolica-covered madrasas, dating from the 15th to 17th centuries, include the Ulugh Beg Madrasa (left), Sher-Dor Madrasa (right) and the Tilla-Kari Madrasa. Translated from Uzbek, “registan” means a sand place. In the ancient times, this central square was covered by sand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Me at the Registan, the heart of ancient Samarkand with its three madrasas built during the Timurid Renaissance and considered to be true pinnacles of Islamic architecture. The three ornate, majolica-covered madrasas, dating from the 15th to 17th centuries, include the Ulugh Beg Madrasa (left), Sher-Dor Madrasa (right) and the Tilla-Kari Madrasa. Translated from Uzbek, “registan” means a sand place. In the ancient times, this central square was covered by sand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Instead of cells where students would learn mathematics and astronomy, the interior of the Ulugbek Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand is now filled with colorful small shops of a variety of items. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Instead of cells where students would learn mathematics and astronomy, the interior of the Ulugbek Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand is now filled with colorful small shops of a variety of items. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Instead of cells where students would learn mathematics and astronomy, the interior of the Ulugbek Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand is now filled with colorful small shops of a variety of items. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Our Samarkand guide Eleonora inside the Ulugbek Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand showing us the kinds of garments and accessories once worn by Uzbek people. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Our Samarkand guide Eleonora, demonstrating how women once covered their faces with a horsehair veil or paranja inside the Ulugbek Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Tilla-Kari Madrasa (left) and Sher-Dor Madrasa (right) on the Registan Square in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The Tilla-Kori Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand was built between 1646 and 1660. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The Tilla-Kori Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand was built between 1646 and 1660. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The Tilla-Kori Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand was built between 1646 and 1660. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The courtyard inside the Tilla-Kori Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The courtyard inside the Tilla-Kori Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The courtyard inside the Tilla-Kori Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The mihrab inside the former mosque area of the Tilla-Kori Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Inside the former mosque area of the Tilla-Kori Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand.
A woman trying to get a selfie with her group inside the former mosque area of the Tilla-Kori Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Getting in a group photo on the stairs of the Tilla-Kari Madrasa and former Friday Mosque on Registan Square in Samarkand. In the center, our Intrepid Tour leader, Jam. From left, front row, me, Imelda, Nick, Spence and Scott. Back row from left, Kimberly, Jonny, Bethan, Vikki and Liz. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The Sher-Dor Madrasah on the Registan Square in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The Sher-Dor Madrasah on the Registan Square in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The busy courtyard inside the Sher-Dor Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The busy courtyard inside the Sher-Dor Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand. (Sept. 16. 2023)
The busy courtyard inside the Sher-Dor Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The courtyard inside the Sher-Dor Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand where you can enter into the various stalls that were once cells where students were taught. (Sept. 16, 2023)
A carpet vendor inside a decorative dome area of the Sher-Dor Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand where students were once taught. (Sept. 16, 2023)
A carpet vendor inside a decorative dome area of the Sher-Dor Madrasa on Registan Square in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Wedding day Saturday when the brides and grooms are plentiful and enjoying their special day in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Wedding day Saturday when the brides and grooms are plentiful and enjoying their special day in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The Koni Ghil Meros Paper Factory in Samarkand where we saw a demonstration into the craft of paper-making. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The process of turning mulberry tree branches into paper begins with soaking and stripping the wood as demonstrated at the Koni Ghil Meros Paper Factory in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
After the strips are pulverized into smaller pieces they are gathered up into a rack, dried and placed over another layer to dry as demonstrated at the Koni Ghil Meros Paper Factory in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Once dried, the paper is then pressed with a stone so that it becomes shiny and smooth enough to write on as demonstrated at the Koni Ghil Meros Paper Factory in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Various kinds of paper products are sold at the Koni Ghil Meros Paper Factory in Samarkand.
(Sept. 16, 2023)
Various kinds of paper products are sold at the Koni Ghil Meros Paper Factory in Samarkand.
(Sept. 16, 2023)
Before making our way down the street to the Bibi-Khanym Mosque in Samarkand, we stopped for a Plov lunch. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Plov. Plov. Pretty much all of us ordered in Samarkand. From left: Spence, me, Bethan, Liz, Kimberly and Jonny. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Plov, the traditional rice dish of Uzbekistan. (Sept. 16, 2023)
After lunch, we walked to the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, considered to be one of the most important monuments of Samarkand. In the 15th century, it was one of the largest and most magnificent mosques in the Islamic world and is considered a masterpiece of the Timurid Renaissance. This is a side view of the mosque. By the mid-20th century, only a grandiose ruin of it still survived, but major parts of the mosque were restored during the Soviet period. (Sept. 16, 2023)
A side front view of the Bibi-Khanym Mosque in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The front and first facade of the Bibi-Khanym Mosque in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The front and first facade of the Bibi-Khanym Mosque in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Entering the front and first facade of the Bibi-Khanym Mosque into the courtyard. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The second facade and courtyard of the Bibi-Khanym Mosque in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
A stone Quran stand in the courtyard between the two facades of the Bibi-Khanym Mosque in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Our group photo in front of the first facade of the Bibi-Khanym Mosque in Samarkand. Photo from Liz Ko. From top left: Jam, Vikki, Spence, me, Nick and Imelda. From bottom left: Jonny, Bethan, Liz, Kimberly and Scott (Sept. 16, 2023)
Another bride and groom in Samarkand. In fact we saw a number of newly wed couples. (Sept. 16, 2023)
A large mural on the side of a building in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The Gur-e-Amir mausoleum, the towering tomb of Amir Timur or Tamerlane (1336-1405) in Samarkand, founder of the Timurid Empire. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The Gur-e-Amir mausoleum, the towering tomb of Amir Timur or Tamerlane in Samarkand, founder of the Timurid Empire. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The Gur-e-Amir mausoleum, the towering tomb of Amir Timur or Tamerlane in Samarkand, founder of the Timurid Empire. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The Gur-e-Amir mausoleum, the towering tomb of Amir Timur or Tamerlane (1336-1405) in Samarkand, founder of the Timurid Empire. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The Gur-e-Amir mausoleum, the towering tomb of Amir Temur or Tamerlane in Samarkand, founder of the Timurid Empire. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The Gur-e-Amir mausoleum, the towering tomb dome of Amir Temur or Tamerlane in Samarkand, founder of the Timurid Empire. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The Gur-e-Amir mausoleum, the towering tomb dome of Amir Temur or Tamerlane in Samarkand, founder of the Timurid Empire. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Our Samarkand guide Eleonora, inside the Gur-e-Amir mausoleum in Samarkand, showing us a model of the Gur-e-Amir mausoleum and an artist’s portrait version of Temur or Tamerlane (1336–1405) , a Turco-Mongol conqueror who founded the Timurid Empire in and around modern-day Afghanistan, Iran and Central Asia, becoming the first ruler of the Timurid dynasty. An undefeated commander, he is widely regarded as one of the greatest military leaders and tacticians in history, as well as one of the most brutal and deadly. (Sept. 16, 2023)
A painting of what Amir Timur could have looked like inside the Gur-e-Amir mausoleum in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Our Samarkand guide Eleonora, inside the Gur-e-Amir mausoleum in Samarkand, showing us a facial reconstruction photo of what Amir Timur could have looked like. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Inside the mausoleum of Amir Timur or Tamerlane (1336-1405) in Samarkand. His remains, under the dark jade marble, are said to be buried deep below. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Inside the mausoleum of Amir Timur or Tamerlane (1336-1405) in Samarkand. His remains, under the dark jade marble, are said to be buried deep below. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Inside the mausoleum of Amir Timur or Tamerlane (1336-1405) in Samarkand. His remains, under the dark jade marble, are said to be buried deep below. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Inside the mausoleum of Amir Timur or Tamerlane (1336-1405) in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Inside the mausoleum of Amir Timur or Tamerlane (1336-1405) in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Inside the mausoleum of Amir Timur or Tamerlane (1336-1405) in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Statue of Amir Timur the Great (1336-1405) in Samarkand. He was a complex, multi-faceted personality, who was regarded as a great military leader as well as being brutal and deadly. Timur was also considered a patron of the arts and architecture along with being the founder of the Timurid Empire in and around modern-day Afghanistan, Iran and Central Asia. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The large statue of Statue of Amir Timur sits at the roundabout of a major traffic section in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
The large statue of Statue of Amir Timur sits at the roundabout of a major traffic section in Samarkand. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Statue of Amir Timur the Great (1336-1405) in Samarkand. He was a complex, multi-faceted personality, who was regarded as a great military leader as well as being brutal and deadly. Timur was also considered a patron of the arts and architecture along with being the founder of the Timurid Empire in and around modern-day Afghanistan, Iran and Central Asia. (Sept. 16, 2023)
Statue of Amir Timur the Great (1336-1405) in Samarkand. He was a complex, multi-faceted personality, who was regarded as a great military leader as well as being brutal and deadly. Timur was also considered a patron of the arts and architecture along with being the founder of the Timurid Empire in and around modern-day Afghanistan, Iran and Central Asia. (Sept. 16, 2023)

Day 10 – Leaving Samarkand for a night in Tashkent, the Uzbek capital 

Back on the not so high-speed train to Tashkent, the capital and our last stop in Uzbekistan before heading to Tajikistan. 

Considered the largest city in Central Asia, Tashkent, like many cities in Uzbekistan, is an ancient city of more than 2000 years old. But it doesn’t feel or really look as old as the other cities we visited. That could be because of a devastating earthquake in 1966 that left some 300,000 people homeless and the capital city needing to be completely reconstructed by the Soviets. 

With barely a half-day in Tashkent, we checked into our hotel, ate lunch and did a little site seeing visiting the State Museum of the History of Uzbekistan, the Monument of Courage Earthquake Memorial, the Hasti Imom complex, the Chorus Bazaar and the Tashkent Metro station for a ride and for the art. Until 2018, it was illegal to photograph the Tashkent metro station, because it also worked as a nuclear bomb shelter.

Here’s a quick look at Tashkent. 

Back to the train station in Samarkand for Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
The Samarkand train station (Sept. 17, 2023)
On the train from Samarkand to Tashkent. From left, me, Spence, Vikki and Kimberly. (Sept. 17, 2023)
The desert-like views from the train from Samarkand to Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Views from the train from Samarkand to Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Views from the train from Samarkand to Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Views from the train from Samarkand to Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Views from the train from Samarkand to Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Getting off our high speed train in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Views of Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Views of Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Getting checked into our Tashkent hotel, the Central Palace Hotel. (Sept. 17, 2023)
My very large hotel room at the Central Palace Hotel in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
My also very big bathroom at the Central Palace Hotel in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
My also very big bathroom at the Central Palace Hotel in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Lunch at the outdoor restaurant outside of our hotel, the Central Plaza in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Looking to put together a couple of tables for our group to have lunch in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
My very beefy and very tasty lunch that I ended up sharing because it was just so much food in Tashkent. The food so far has been well seasoned and rather tasty. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Walking down through an underpass to cross the street in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Walking down through an underpass to cross the street in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
The State Museum of the History of Uzbekistan in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
The State Museum of the History of Uzbekistan in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Inside the main hallway of the State Museum of the History of Uzbekistan in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
An exhibit hall inside the State Museum of the History of Uzbekistan in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
An exhibit hall inside the State Museum of the History of Uzbekistan in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
An Ossuarium, where remains were kept, from the 6th to 7th centuries inside the State Museum of the History of Uzbekistan in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
The sculpture of a woman warrior inside the State Museum of the History of Uzbekistan in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
A large mural depicting the Silk Road era heroes and leaders and the great leader Amir Timur on a white horse inside the State Museum of the History of Uzbekistan in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
The great leader Amir Timur (1336-1405) on a white horse who was regarded as one of history’s greatest military leaders and strategists along with being a ruthless man and a man of the arts who founded the Timurid Empire in 1370. This is part of a larger mural inside the State Museum of the History of Uzbekistan in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
We stopped at the Monument of Courage Earthquake Memorial in Tashkent. It is located
at the epicenter of the earthquake that destroyed the city in 1966 and dedicated to the people who rebuilt the city with a central statue and a series of metal panels highlighting different aspects of the work. The artistic image is represented by a black cube made of granite which shows a dial with a clock, the date and year symbolizing the earthquake. The crack from the black cube leads to the image of a family. Here we see a woman holding a child with one hand and a man trying to protect them from the strike of nature. (Sept. 17, 2023)
A statue of a family with a woman holding a child with one hand and a man trying to protect them from the strike of nature at the Monument of Courage Earthquake Memorial in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
A series of metal panels a series of metal panels at the Monument of Courage Earthquake Memorial in Tashkent highlighting different aspects of the work done to rebuild Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
A series of metal panels a series of metal panels at the Monument of Courage Earthquake Memorial in Tashkent highlighting different aspects of the work done to rebuild Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Chorsu Bazaar, also called the Charsu Bazaar, is a traditional bazaar in the center of the old town of Tashkent, the capital city of Uzbekistan. Under its blue-colored domed building and the adjacent areas, all daily necessities are sold. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Chorsu Bazaar, also called the Charsu Bazaar, is a traditional bazaar in the center of the old town of Tashkent, the capital city of Uzbekistan. Under its blue-colored domed building and the adjacent areas, all daily necessities are sold. (Sept. 17, 2023)
An Uzbek woman selling items from her cart at the Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Inside the Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Inside the Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Inside the Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Inside the Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
The Hasti Imom complex is an architectural monument dating from the 16th to 20th centuries, located in the Olmazor district of Tashkent. The complex consists of a madrasa, mausoleum, mosque and an Islamic institution library. The ensemble was built near the grave of Hazrati Imam, the first imam-khatib of Tashkent, a scholar, one of the first Islamic preachers in Tashkent, a poet and an artist. (Sept. 17, 2023)
The Hasti Imom complex in Tashkent. ( Sept. 17, 2023)
The library inside the Hasti Imom complex in Tashkent where one of the oldest Quran’s is housed. ( Sept. 17, 2023)
The entrance to the library of the Hasti Imom complex in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
One of the oldest surviving Holy Quran’s in existence, written in an early version of the kufic script, is on display at the library inside the Hasti Imam complex in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Entering the Tashkent subway or metro system. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Taking the elescalator down into the Chorsu metro station in Tashkent with my tour group. That’s our tour group leader, in red, Jam, behind me. (Sept. 17, 2023)
The Chorus metro station in Tashkent. The Tashkent Metro is the rapid transit system serving the capital of Uzbekistan. It was the seventh metro to be built in the former USSR, opening in 1977, and the first metro in Central Asia. Each station is designed around a particular theme, often reflected in the station name with decorated platforms, glazed columns and shimmering tunnels. (Sept. 17, 2023)
The Chorus metro station in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
The Chorus metro station in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
The Chorus metro station in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Getting in a selfie inside the train of the Tashkent Metro. (Sept. 17, 2023)
Taking a shaky photo of my tour mates, Liz and Spence, chatting inside the train ride of the Tashkent Metro. (Sept. 17, 2023)
The Pakhtakor metro station in Tashkent. (Photo by Liz Ko)
The Pakhtakor metro station in Tashkent. (Photo by Liz Ko)
The Kosmonavtlar or “Cosmonauts” metro station, a space-programme-themed station of the Tashkent Metro with its blue ceramic medallions and its glass stars ceiling resembling the Milky Way. It honors Soviet cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin and Valentina Tereshkova, the first man and woman in space. (Sept. 17, 2023)
The Kosmonavtlar or “Cosmonauts” metro station, a space-programme-themed station of the Tashkent Metro with its blue ceramic medallions and its glass stars ceiling resembling the Milky Way. It honors Soviet cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin and Valentina Tereshkova, the first man and woman in space. (Sept. 17, 2023)
A train coming into the Kosmonavtlar or “Cosmonauts” metro station in Tashkent. (Sept. 17, 2023)
The blue ceramic medallion of Valentina Vladimirovna Tereshkova the first woman Soviet cosmonaut featured at the Kosmonavtlar or “Cosmonauts” metro station in Tashkent. Born in 1937, she was the first woman in space, having flown a solo mission on Vostok 6 on 16 June 1963. She orbited the Earth 48 times spending almost three days in space and is the only woman to have been on a solo space mission. (Sept. 17, 2023)