Turkmenistan: The “White City” and the “Door to Hell”

Turkmenistan

Day 1 – Early morning arrival in Ashgabat and meeting my Intrepid Travel tour group and leader

In order to enter Turkmenistan you must first obtain a Letter of Invitation, which I did through Intrepid Travel. And I honestly didn’t know what to expect when entering the country through passport control. First there was the COVID test for $31 USD. The person doing the test, barely got the cotton swab into one nostril and didn’t do the other nostril. None of tests were numbered so I’m not even sure how they knew which test belonged to which person. But before we could move on to Passport Control, we had to pay for the test then hop on the bus to passport control.

Before going through passport control, I also had to pay $85 USD to complete a migration card and $15 USD for a migration fee. Once I paid the fees and made it through passport control, I read that once I picked up my suitcase, it and maybe even I would be searched. But neither of these things happened.

Thankfully, several tour group members were on my flight from Istanbul so we all met with our leader, Mekcan, once we picked up our luggage. We made it to our very elegant hotel room at the Sport Myhmanhanas Hotel in Ashgabat, the capital city of Turkmenistan. Even though I upgraded to business class on my flight from Dallas to Istanbul, I still didn’t sleep. So, when I got to my hotel room not only did I need to sleep, but I also needed a shower. And, thankfully, I got both. A nice hot shower and about 10 hours of sleep.

Once I woke up, which ended up being around 4:00 in the afternoon, I got up and did some exploring around the hotel. Tourists are required to be with a guide. Our group meeting, and dinner afterwards, was scheduled for 6:00 p.m. so even though I had not planned to sleep so late in the day, I’m glad I did because I needed it.

It was nice to meet and hang out with our group tonight for dinner. There are 11 of us travelers and I don’t remember everyone’s name yet. But five of us are solo women travelers, two solo men travelers and two couples. Add our Turkmenistan-only guide Mekcan, and that makes us a group of 12.

Dinner turned out to be quite nice at a restaurant where a number of big family groups dined. Although there was way too much food, it was somewhat tasty. And even though I had not eaten all day, I was only slightly hungry but I ate as much of the Lentil soup and salad as I could along with the main course of Chicken with gravy and potatoes.

After dinner and back at the hotel, most of the group went to the 9th floor, climbed up the spiral staircase lit by a rather stunning chandelier to enjoy the beautiful night views from an outdoor circular veranda of the “White City” with its colorful lights.

And, one other thing, there’s no Facebook, WhatsApp or social media in this country. To participate in the country’s social media, one has to sign up, through the government, to participate. Even my T-Mobile, which works in so many countries, did not work in Turkmenistan. So, I shut off my roaming cellular service and I shut off WiFi.

Here’s to my first full day in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan.

Pick up service at the airport had been arranged and several tour group members came in on the same plane from Istanbul so we all rode together. We finally arrived around 4:30 in the morning at the Sport Myhmanhan’s Hotel or Sport Hotel in Ashgabat. (Sept. 8, 2023)

Early morning views of the brightly lit Ashgabat across the street from the Sport Hotel. (Sept. 8, 2023)

The lobby inside the Sport Myhmanhan’s Hotel or Sport Hotel in Ashgabat. (Sept. 8, 2023)

My very elegant room inside the Sport Myhmanhan’s Hotel or Sport Hotel in Ashgabat. (Sept. 8, 2023)

My bathroom inside the Sport Myhmanhan’s Hotel or Sport Hotel in Ashgabat. (Sept. 8, 2023)

My throne inside the Sport Myhmanhan’s Hotel or Sport Hotel in Ashgabat. (Sept. 8, 2023)

After sleeping more than 10-hours, I stepped out to finally explore the hotel. This is the hallway area outside of my room inside the Sport Myhmanhan’s Hotel or Sport Hotel in Ashgabat. (Sept. 8, 2023)

The hallway area inside the Sport Myhmanhan’s Hotel or Sport Hotel in Ashgabat. (Sept. 8, 2023)

The very decorative areas inside the Sport Myhmanhan’s Hotel or Sport Hotel in Ashgabat. (Sept. 8, 2023)

First daylight views of Turkmenistan’s capital city of Ashgabat, known as the “White City” from our tour bus as we make our way to a restaurant for dinner. (Sept. 8, 2023)

Cars entering the “White City” of Ashgabat are not only supposed to be white but also clean. (Sept. 8, 2023)

The Medeni Dync Alys Merkezi restaurant in Ashgabat for our first group meal in Turkmenistan. (Sept. 8, 2023)

Inside the Medeni Dync Alys Merkezi restaurant in Ashgabat for our first group meal in Turkmenistan. (Sept. 8, 2023)

The table was covered with food, but even though I had not eaten anything, this meal really filled me up. I totally enjoyed the lentil soup, salad and the fruit. (Sept. 8, 2023)

The main meal was chicken and potatoes. The chicken was a little dry but I ate what I could. (Sept. 8, 2023)

We celebrated David’s birthday, with his wife Imelda sitting next to him at our group dinner. (Sept. 8, 2023)

Our first Intrepid group dinner together in Ashgabat at a very nice restaurant. From left: Spence, Nick, Imelda, David (the 77-year-old birthday boy), Mekcan (standing, our Intrepid leader for Turkmenistan) Liz, Vikki, Scott, me, Bethan, Jonny and Kimberly. Our small group of travelers for this Central Asia tour. (Sept. 8, 2023)

Me at our restaurant in Ashgabat after a good day’s sleep and looking forward to see more of Ashgabat. (Sept. 8, 2023)

The outdoor area of the Medeni Dync Alys Merkezi restaurant in Ashgabat where we had our first group meal and where a number of local families were enjoying a night out. (Sept. 8, 2023)

Back to our hotel, the Sport Hotel in Ashgabat. (Sept. 8, 2023)

The Chinese food restaurant inside our hotel, the Sport Hotel in Ashgabat. But heading up the stairs to visit the circular outdoor balcony. (Sept. 8, 2023)

The gorgeous crystal chandelier inside our hotel, the Sport Hotel in Ashgabat as we head up the stairs to visit the circular outdoor balcony. (Sept. 8, 2023)

Colorful panoramic night views of Ashgabat from the circular outdoor balcony of the Sport Hotel. (Sept. 8, 2023)

Day 2 – Bus tour of Ashgabat with stops at Monuments

Turkmenistan, located in the southwest region of the Central Asia, is bordered by Kazakhstan to the northwest, Uzbekistan to the north and east, Afghanistan to the southeast, Iran to the south and the Caspian Sea to the west. In terms of land area, Turkmenistan is the second largest country in Central Asia however 80 percent of the land area is desert. The country’s population is about 7 million and about one million live in Ashgabat.

The problem about those one million people in Ashgabat is that they are invisible or live outside somewhere of the “White City.”

I have such mixed feelings about Ashgabat, the country’s capital city. As a city risen from the desert, with miles of trees planted to create greenways, it’s oddly a beautiful sea of white that feels cold in the desert. By day the city shines in the sun and by night the white and colored lights give the city a Vegas-style look, but without the gambling and shows, of course.

This is still predominantly a Muslim country although the religion doesn’t seem to be pushed onto the people. It is definitely a male dominated society. Although women seem to have autonomy, very few drive and most dress conservatively in long dresses and long pants but it’s very colorful attire without the need to cover their heads or faces.

As a foreigner, we are not permitted to explore Ashgabat without a local guide. So Saturday was our only full day to really see Ashgabat and we did. And even though we stopped and got out at the touristy places, we driven to each place.

As it turned out, our group of 11 were pretty much the only people visiting the various sites.

We began the morning with a visit to theNational Museum of Turkmenistan also known as the Ashgabat National Museum of History; the Monument of Neutrality; the Alem or Indoor Ferris Wheel; the remains of Old Nisa; the Ertugrul Gazi Mosque; the

Independence Monumentand the remains of the Seyit Jemal ad-Din Shrine, a mosque in Anay constructed in 1456,

The city, at least for me, feels cold and vacant but it has a historical soul that I’m gladwe got to see. From what I could see, people only hang out at the mall and not on the streets and the city is full of marble edifices and golden statues, most of which were erected during Saparmurat Atayevich Niyazov’s presidency. He was known as Türkmenbaşy, a megalomaniacal dictator who ruled Turkmenistan from 1985 until his death in 2006.

Here’s to our only full day in Ashgabat.

In the air conditioned gondola of the Ferris wheel with a part of our Intrepid Travel Tour group in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. The Ferris Wheel was opened specifically for our group who were the only people there. That’s me taking the group selfie, Liz, Scott, Vikki and Kimberly. And that’s our guide, Mekcan in the red waiting outside the Ferris Wheel. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The “White City” of Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Our first stop of the morning, which did not begin until 10:00 a.m., was at the National Museum of Turkmenistan and also known as the Ashgabat National Museum of History. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The National Museum of Turkmenistan and also the Ashgabat National Museum of History. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The exterior entrance into the National Museum of Turkmenistan also known as the Ashgabat National Museum of History. Our group was pretty much the only people in the museum and tabs were kept on us the whole time. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Inside the National Museum of Turkmenistan also known as the Ashgabat National Museum of History. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The Hall of the current president inside the National Museum of Turkmenistan also known as the Ashgabat National Museum of History. Serdar Berdimuhamedow is the current president of Turkmenistan, the third in the history of the country since it gained independence with the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Burned clay emale figurines from the 3rd millennium BC which spans the years 3000 to 2001 BC exhibited inside the National Museum of Turkmenistan in Ashgabat. And a bronze seal, in the center, from the same time period. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The Anthropomorphous God of Fertility inside the National Museum of Turkmenistan in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

One of the many display rooms inside the National Museum of Turkmenistan also known as the Ashgabat National Museum of History. Again for the most part, we were the only visitors at the museum. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Second century B.C. Nisian rhytons, wine vessels, in ivory and bronze from Old Nisa (which we are scheduled to visit) inside the National Museum of Turkmenistan in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Second century B.C. Nisian rhytons, a wine vessel, in ivory and bronze with a centaur from Old Nisa (which we are scheduled to visit) inside the National Museum of Turkmenistan in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Second century B.C. Nisian rhytons, a wine vessel, in ivory and bronze with a winged lion from Old Nisa (which we are scheduled to visit) inside the National Museum of Turkmenistan in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

A 5th century AD terracotta vase from the ancient city of Merv in Turkmenistan inside the the National Museum of Turkmenistan in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Inside the National Museum of Turkmenistan also known as the Ashgabat National Museum of History. We had a guide through the museum and two other women who basically kept an eye on us. In fact, anytime I stayed behind, they encouraged me to catch up with the group. Needless to say, we were not free to walk around on our own. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The giant handmade carpet called the Turkmenbashi inside the National Museum of Turkmenistan in Ashgabat. The carpet was woven by 38 carpet makers from the wool of the sheeps in honor of the 5th anniversary of Turkmenistan’s independence. Weaving began April 3, 1996 and was completed some six months later in October. Considered to be the largest carpet in the world, it measures about 46 feet x 69 feet or 14 x 21 meters. (Sept. 9, 2023)

A close-up of the giant handmade carpet called the Turkmenbashi inside the National Museum of Turkmenistan in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The current president of Turkmenistan, Serdar Berdimuhamedow, the third in the history of the country since it gained independence with the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991. (For some reason, I was told by one of the young women following us around, not to take photos of this exhibit. Why? I have no idea. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Me at the Monument of Neutrality in Ashgabat. Like the other monuments, it was built on the orders of the President of Turkmenistan, Saparmyrat Nyýazow, in 1998 to honor his adoption of neutrality as his official policy at a cost of more than $12 million. And, I guess to honor himself, a gold statue was of to Nyýazow was placed at the top to rotate and bask in the sun. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The Monument of Neutrality in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

A golden statue of former president Saparmurad Niyazov rotating to continuously face the Sun, atop the Monument of Neutrality in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Heading to our tour bus from the Monument of Neutrality in Ashgabat. There’s definitely no walking to sites. It is rather hot and sites or monuments seem to be spread out. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The Guinness Book of World Records, Alem, which means “Universe”, the largest indoor enclosed Ferris Wheel ever made. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The Alem, or indoor Ferris Wheel, was opened up specifically for our group. No other tourists were there. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Inside the indoor Ferris Wheel or Alem in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Me inside the Alem, an indoor Ferris Wheel in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Back on the bus again, past the suburban forest parks in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The tree forests growing in the dessert of Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Driving by the Monument to the Turkmenistan Constitution in Ashgabat. Decorated in marble, it was built to honor the 20th anniversary of the Constitution of Turkmenistan and constructed between 2008 and 2011. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Driving by an enclosed bus station in the “White City” of Ashgabat , (Sept. 9, 2023)

Climbing the stairs up to visit the remains of Old Nisa. (Sept. 9, 2023)

For history buffs like me, I’m glad we’re getting to see some of Turkmenistan’s history. This is Old Nisa. Nice to know there’s more than gleaming marble edifices and monuments with gold statues, there’s the history of the people that existed in this ancient settlement from around 250 to 211 BC when the Iranian Parthian kings ruled and established a royal residence. In 2007, the fortress was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO (Sept. 9, 2023)

Inside Old Nisa near Ashgabat. Nisa was totally destroyed by an earthquake during the 1st decade BC. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Inside Old Nisa near Ashgabat. Nisa was totally destroyed by an earthquake during the 1st decade BC. That’s Scott and Kimberly. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Me inside the Old Nisa near Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Our lunch break at the Tumar Pub in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Inside the Tumar Pub in Ashgabat where we had our lunch today. There were a couple of people here but for the most part, our group of 12 were the main patrons of the restaurant. (Sept. 9, 2023)

My meal for lunch today at the Tumar Pub in Ashgabat. Meat and vegetables. It was tasty and well seasoned. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The Ertuğrul Gazi Mosque or Ärtogrul Gazy Mosque in Ashgabat was inaugurated in 1998 after the independence of Turkmenistan in 1990. It is named after Ertuğrul, the father of Osman I, founder of the Ottoman Empire. The white marbled building is reminiscent of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul and it can accommodates up to 5,000 worshipers at a time. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The Ertuğrul Gazi Mosque or Ärtogrul Gazy Mosque in Ashgabat was inaugurated in 1998 after the independence of Turkmenistan in 1990. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Inside the Ertuğrul Gazi Mosque or Ärtogrul Gazy Mosque in Ashgabat. ((Sept. 9, 2023)

The women of the group sitting in the upper portion of the Ertuğrul Gazi Mosque or Ärtogrul Gazy Mosque in Ashgabat where the women sit to pray. From left, Imelda, Spence, Bethan, Liz, Kimberly, Vikki and me. (Sept. 9, 2023)

An apartment complex, but where are the people of Ashgabat? It is hot, so maybe the people chose to stay indoors. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Views of the “White City” of Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The Seyit Jamal-ad-Din mosque is part of a medieval complex, which includes, a mausoleum and a number of other buildings near the modern city of Anau, close to Ashgabat. The site is a pilgrimage place for childless Turkomans who make offerings of children’s clothes and baby dolls in the hope of conceiving children. It was built around 1456 but was destroyed in a 1948 earthquake. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The crumbling remains of the medieval Seyit Jamal-ad-Din mosque is part of a medieval complex, which includes, a mausoleum and a number of other buildings near the modern city of Anau, close to Ashgabat. The mosque still attracts the devout, who come to pray and make offerings. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The remains of the medieval Seyit Jamal-ad-Din mosque, which includes a mausoleum and a number of other buildings near the modern city of Anau and not far from Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

There are cotton fields outside of Ashgabat. In 2022, Turkmenistan exported cotton and cotton products valued at almost $300 million USD. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Walking towards the very extravagant and massive Independence Monument and Park of Independence in Ashgabat with its dome and minaret-like tower rising from its top. The monument commemorates Turkmenistan’s independence of September 27, 1991 with 27 bronze statues of Turkmen leaders. And, the centerpiece of the monument is the golden fountain statue of Turkmenistan’s long-running dictator Saparmurat Niyazov. There were more people working at the monument than were there to see the monument. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The very extravagant and massive Independence Monument and Park of Independence in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

The dome and minaret-like tower rising from its top of the very extravagant and massive Independence Monument and Park of Independence in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

One of the 27 bronze statues of Turkmen leaders at the very extravagant and massive Independence Monument and Park of Independence in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Some of the 27 bronze statues of Turkmen leaders at the very extravagant and massive Independence Monument and Park of Independence in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Me at the very extravagant and massive Independence Monument and Park of Independence in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

This entrance to the Independence Monument in Ashgabat features the gold statue of aparmurat Niyazov who became the first president of the new Republic of Turkmenistan and its supreme decision maker. It was erected in 2001 in honor of the 10th anniversary of Turkmenistan’s independence. Following the end of the Cold War and the breakup of the Soviet Union, Turkmenistan declared its independence on October 27, 1991. (Sept. 9, 2023)

This entrance to the Independence Monument has the gold statue of Saparmurat Niyazov who became the first president of the new Republic of Turkmenistan and its supreme decision maker. Niyazov, the president for life, died in 2006 after reigning for 16 years and then his son took over. Niyazov promoted a cult of personality around himself and imposed his personal eccentricities upon the country. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Another monument, but this time it’s to the Giant Ruhnama written by Turkmenistan’s former president and dictator, Saparmurat Niyazov. His national Bible, called “Ruhnama” (“Book of the Soul”). The lilac-pink, green and gold book is best known for his strange laws like banning everything from lip-syncing to smelly dogs in the capital city. (Sep. 9, 2023)

The fountain with the lilac-pink, green and gold Giant Ruhnama book on top. The fountain features gold etchings of Ashgabat sites. (Sept. 9, 2023)

A close up of the Giant Ruhnama (The Book of the Soul) in 2001 as a spiritual guide, by Turkmenistan’s former president and dictator Saparmurat Niyazov, for the Turkmen nation, and as an attempt to “Turkmenize” the country. The Ruhnama features a weird combination of revisionist history, moral ideals, religious norms and fairytales. (Sept. 9, 2023)

A close-up of the fountain and the etchings on gold that encircle the Giant Ruhnama book memorial in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Inside the Berkarar Shopping and Entertainment Center in Ashgabat. And, as you can see, it is quite sparkling, but it was nice to see people inside this huge modern mall just across the way from our hotel, the Sport Hotel. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Dresses in a custom dress shop inside the Berkarar Shopping and Entertainment Center in Ashgabat. Women mainly wear long stylish dresses and pants. Although some cover their hair, many do not. (Sept 9, 2023)

Fabric selections for women’s garments at a dress shop inside the Berkarar Shopping and Entertainment Center in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

A large grocery store inside the Berkarar Shopping and Entertainment Center in Ashgabat. (Sept. 9, 2023)

A large grocery store inside the Berkarar Shopping and Entertainment Center in Ashgabat where I picked up some snacks for our morning drive to the Darvaza Crater. (Sept. 9, 2023)

I walked across the street from the Berkarar Shopping and Entertainment Center to my hotel, the Sport Myhmanhanasy in Ashgabat. I used the pedestrian underpass, with three different exit ways allowed me to walk under the freeway and literally exit in front of the hotel. Our time at the hotel and Turkmenistan is quickly coming to a close. Tomorrow we head to the Darvaza Crater for a night and then cross the border into Uzbekistan. (Sept. 9, 2023)

Day 3 – On the Way to Hell at the Darvaza Gas Crater

It’s been a short but rather worldwind time in Turkmenistan yet it is the first of five countries we will be exploring on this Central Asia tour.

Truth be told, I am ready to leave Ashgabat. Not to criticize the city or the country, but I feel like I’m in a ‘looks good on the outside’ city and I’m not allowed to look behind that curtain for the truth. It feels fake and I feel spoon-fed dictator-worship that leads to marble and gold monuments. And more importantly, there was really no mingling with the locals other than hanging out at the mall, the Berkarar Shopping and Entertainment Center.

On the way to the Darvaza Gas Crater and before getting on the pot-hole Karakum Desert highway, we made some stops along the way including the Türkmenbaşy Ruhy Mosque where the former president and dictator of Turkmenistan had built and where he is buried. Plus the remnants of the USSR or the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics that spanned much of Eurasia from 1922 to 1991 with a bas-relief carving and the Monument to Vladimir Lenin. Also much of the cold, stark architecture seen is Ashgabat is from the Soviet-era.

We left Ashgabat in our tour bus but before hitting the desert, we switched to jeeps, rather comfortable jeeps, for the drive across the pot-hole highway to the Darvaza Gas Crater. To me, if you’re going to pretty-up a city, at least take care of the roads. Oh, right, they do take care of the roads around Ashgabat, but that’s certainly not the case once you’re outside the city.

The saving grace of the drive was stopping to get out of the jeeps to walk around. But it really was a very bumpy and oftentimes dusty ride across the two-way highway of the Karakum Desert. Most of the country, at least 80 percent, is covered by the desert.

Here’s to more Turkmen adventures.

Views of the “White City” of Ashgabat as we make our way to the Darvaza Crater. (Sept. 10, 2023)

The “White City” of Ashgabat that grew from the desert in Turkmenistan. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Finally, people! A group of mainly women Ashgabat waiting for their white bus to arrive and on the bus the women sit up front and the men sit in the back. The women traditionally wear long dresses. Although many wear scarves around their heads, some don’t. But they all seem to wear very colorful attire. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Türkmenbaşy Ruhi Mosque & Family Mausoleum of the First President of Turkmenistan just west of Ashgabat in Gypjak as we made our way to the Darvaza Gas Crater. (Sept. 10, 2023)

The mausoleum of the former Turkmenistan president and dictator Saparmyrat Nyýazow being renovated and the Türkmenbaşy Ruhi Mosque just a few miles west of Ashgabat in Gypjak. (Sept. 10, 2023)

The under renovation mausoleum of the former Turkmenistan president and dictator Saparmyrat Nyýazow by the Türkmenbaşy Ruhi Mosque just a few miles west of Ashgabat in Gypjak. (Sept. 10, 2023)

The mausoleum of former president and dictator of Turkmenistan Saparmyrat Nyýazow inside the Türkmenbaşy Ruhy Mosque or Gypjak Mosque in Gypjak, Turkmenistan, the president’s hometown. Nyýazow was the leader of Turkmenistan from 1985 to 2006. He had the mosque and mausoleum built before his death. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Inside the mausoleum of former president and dictator of Turkmenistan Saparmyrat Nyýazow inside the Türkmenbaşy Ruhy Mosque or Gypjak Mosque in Gypjak, Turkmenistan. (Sept. 10, 2023)

The Turkmenbasy Ruhy Mosque, built by the first president and dictator Saparmyrat Nyýazow of Turkmenistan in his hometown of Gypjak just outside of Ashgabat. He was so obsessed with his book, the Ruhnama “The Book of the Soul,” he elevated it to the same level as the Quran. When he built the mosque, he used scriptures from both the Quran and the Ruhnama on the walls of the mosque. (Sept. 10, 2023)

The Turkmenbasy Ruhy Mosque exterior doorway into the mosque, built by the first president and dictator Saparmyrat Nyýazow of Turkmenistan in his hometown of Gypjak just outside of Ashgabat. (Sept. 10, 2023)

A close-up of the exterior doorway of the Turkmenbasy Ruhy Mosque, built by the first president and dictator Saparmyrat Nyýazow of Turkmenistan in his hometown of Gypjak just outside of Ashgabat. (Sept. 10, 2023)

A close-up of the intricate and beautifully carved doorway to the Turkmenbasy Ruhy Mosque, built by the first president and dictator Saparmyrat Nyýazow of Turkmenistan in his hometown of Gypjak just outside of Ashgabat. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Inside the Turkmenbasy Ruhy Mosque, built by the first president and dictator Saparmyrat Nyýazow of Turkmenistan in his hometown of Gypjak just outside of Ashgabat. Nyýazow was so obsessed with his book, the Ruhnama “The Book of the Soul,” he elevated it to the same level as the Quran. When he built the mosque, he used scriptures from both the Quran and the Ruhnama on the walls of the mosque. (Sept. 10, 2023)

The beautiful roof inside the Turkmenbasy Ruhy Mosque, built by the first president and dictator Saparmyrat Nyýazow of Turkmenistan in his hometown of Gypjak just outside of Ashgabat. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Our tour group inside the Turkmenbasy Ruhy Mosque, built by the first president and dictator Saparmyrat Nyýazow of Turkmenistan in his hometown of Gypjak just outside of Ashgabat. From me, Liz, Kimberly, Scott, David, Mekcan, Imelda, XX, Vikki, Spence, Bethan and Jonny. Photo from Jonny. (Sept. 10, 2023)

This building was once the Archive of the Community Party of Turkmenistan with its bas-relief Soviet sculpture, a throwback to the USSR or Union of Soviet Socialist Republics days of Turkmenistan prior to 1991. And, across the way is the Monument to Vladimir Lenin. (Sept. 10, 2023)

A close-up of the bas-relief Soviet sculpture on the Archive of the Community Party of Turkmenistan in Ashgabat. (Sept. 10, 2023)

The monument to Vladimir Lenin, an example of Soviet-era architectural art, in Ashgabat. It depicts Lenin addressing the people with his right arm outstretched towards the east on a cube-shaped pedestal decorated in majolica tiles in patterns inspired by Turkmen carpets. The monument was opened on November 7, 1927, in honor of the 10th anniversary of the October Revolution of 1917 in Russia. The revolution and subsequent political unrest led to the declaration of the Turkmen Republic as one of the 15 republics of the Soviet Union. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Leaving our tour bus behind on the outskirts of Ashgabat to make our way to the Darvaza Gas Crater in these gorgeous white jeeps. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Liz, Spence and me with our jeep driving on the way to the thru the Karakum Desert from Ashgabat to the “Door to Hell” at the Darvaza Gas Crater. Photo from Liz. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Driving through the desert area of Turkmenistan from Ashgabat to the Darvaza Gas Crater is a little under four hours even though we made stops along the way. (Sept. 10, 2023)

My sand dunes pin-up photo with a desert lake in the background on our way thru the Karakum Desert from Ashgabat to the “Door to Hell” at the Darvaza Gas Crater. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Yes, camels along the highway and the Karakum Desert on the way to the Darvasa Gas Crater. (Sept. 10, 2023)

A quick toilet stop in the countryside where and how the people who live outside of “White City” of Ashgabat thrive and live in the desert as we made our way to the Darvaza Gas Crater. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Check out these camels enjoying their meal along the farmlands outside of Ashgabat as we made our way to the Darvaza Gas Crater. (Sept. 10, 2023)

There are no lines on the potholed asphalt highway thru the Karakum Desert to the Darvaza Gas Crater. So driving on various sides of the highway to avoid the potholes is how the drivers manage. Even though cars going both ways share this highway, they know to stay to the right. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Stopping at a water crater in the Karakum Desert on our way to made our way to the Darvaza Gas Crater. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Trying to avoid the potholes along the way to the Darvaza Gas Crater. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Me at the amazing Darvaza Gas Crater, called the “Door to Hell,” in the middle of the Karakum Desert is about a 3 hour drive, mostly through the desert on wide pothole roads, from Ashgabat. And the heat from the crater is intense and truly overtakes you. (Sept. 10, 2023)

The “Door to Hell”, the Darvaza Gas Crater about a three hours outside of Ashgabat. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Me standing in front of our yurt for the night in the Darvaza Gas Crater, called the “Door to Hell,” in the middle of the Karakum Desert. The wind is picking up and that means the sand is swirling around. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Inside our yurt at a family run campsite by the Darvaza Gas Crater. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Our yurt campsite by the Darvaza Gas Crater in the Karakum Desert of Turkmenistan. And, to my disbelief, there was actually a western toilet. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Our Turkmenistan tour leader, Mekcan, helping to grill our meal at our campsite by the Darvaza Gas Crater in the Karakum Desert of Turkmenistan. Photo from Scott. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Getting ready to enjoy a home cooked barbecue dinner at our campsite for the evening by the Darvaza Gas Crater before settling into our yurts, which we shared…six of us in one, 3 in another with two sleeping in individual tents. By this time, it was windy but not as bad as it was going to get. Thanks Scott for taking the photo and not being the picture. From the left: Nick, Vikki, David, Imogene, Jonny, Bethan, me, Liz, Spence and Kimberly. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Our campsite meal of meat and vegetables by the Darvaza Gas Crater in the Karakum Desert of Turkmenistan. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Our campsite meal of meat and vegetables in head lamp gear by the Darvaza Gas Crater in the Karakum Desert of Turkmenistan. (Sept. 10, 2023)

We returned to the Darvaza Gas Crater during a sandstorm. Although it was windy during dinner, it did not pick up in intensity until we made our way back to the “Door to Hell,” the Darvaza Gas Crater. (Sept. 10, 2023)

Day 4 – More sites before leaving Turkmenistan to cross the Border into Uzbekistan

Somehow, with the help of earplugs and a night mask, I was able to get about five hours of sleep through the sand storm. It wasn’t until an earplug fell out that I couldn’t believe the loudness of the storm. The wind was howling and the sand was hitting the yurt. And, to stay warm, I slept with my clothes and knit hat on.

After our early morning breakfast at our desert camp we took one more look at the “Door to Hell” before getting on the road through the Karakum Desert to the Turkmen/Uzbek border. Uzbekistan border.

With more than five hours of driving along the pothole roads, with stops for off-road toilet breaks in whatever available bush, we came to the ancient complex of Kunya-Urgench. Once a main hub of the Islamic world, it was destroyed by Genghis Khan and fell into decay until the 20th century. The complex in the midst of the desert contains the remains of a series of ancient monuments mainly from the 11th to 16th centuries, including mausoleums, a caravanserai gate and a 197 feet or 60 meter high minaret.

After exploring the ancient Kunya-Urgench complex of monuments, we made our way to the Turkmen/Uzbek border of Khodjeyli (Xo’jayli) and on to Khiva.

For now, here’s to saying goodbye to our short but busy stay in Turkmenistan.