Alice and I in the Piazza Grande in Arezzo. (May 10, 2023)
Italy Days 23 & 24: Welcome to rainy Arezzo and Taking it Easy!
Sometimes, especially when traveling for days on end, one needs a break. And the quiet of Arezzo, along with the rainy cooler days, was the perfect spot to just chill.
After we arrived from Florence and checked into our hotel, Alice and I walked around the beautiful Piazza Grande, the heart of the medieval historic center of the Arezzo.
There’s not days worth of sights to see and things to do in Arezzo, but just enough if you want to take in a place or two and then leisurely enjoy the remainder of your time relaxing, which I did.
Arezzo is best known for its compact and unique medieval architecture, especially its centerpiece, the sloping Piazza Grande flanked by the multi-arched 16th-century Vasari Loggia designed by Renaissance man and one of Arezzo’s favorite sons with a home turned museum close by, Giorgio Vasari. And, a visit to the Bacci Chapel of the Basilica of San Francesco with its stunning Piero della Francesca murals.
Along with these sites, one of the pleasures of a rainy day or two, I would think in just about any place in the world, is just doing little to nothing, which is what I did on our first and second days in Arezzo. Well, not exactly nothing, I binged on “Queen Charlotte: A Bridgerton Story” on Netflix created by Shonda Rhimes. In Italy, binging on a story about a Queen in England. Well, yes. And, if you are into the Bridgerton stories, I highly recommend this prequel series spin-off.
Sometimes, I find it necessary to just take a step back and disconnect. Arezzo and the weather made that possible. And, thankfully traveling with someone who is an independent traveler, like Alice, allows us travel together while also enjoying our individual interests.
So, for now, the chill is on in Arezzo but the travels will continue with more on Arezzo to come.
Alice and I checking out the Piazza Grande, the medieval center, in Arezzo. (May 10, 2023)The Piazza Grande in Arezzo. (May 10, 2023)The medieval Piazza Grande in Arezzo. (May 10, 2023)The Piazza Grande in Arezzo. (May 10, 2023)The long Vasari loggia along the Piazza Grande in Arezzo. Giorgio Vasari, an artist and architect from Arezzo, added to the Piazza Grande with this wonderful loggia with restaurants that replaced the artisan shops of the past. (May 10, 2023)The long Vasari loggia along the Piazza Grande in Arezzo. Giorgio Vasari, an artist and architect from Arezzo, added to the Piazza Grande with this wonderful loggia with restaurants that replaced the artisan shops of the past. (May 10, 2023)The long Vasari loggia along the Piazza Grande in Arezzo. (May 10, 2023)The Piazza Grande in Arezzo. (May 10, 2023)The walkway to our hotel, La Corte Del Re. Entrance door to the lef off of the Piazza Grande in Arezzo. (May 10, 2023)The exterior entrance door to our hotel, La Corte Del Re off of the Piazza Grande in Arezzo. (May 10, 2023)My cozy room at La Corte Del Re off of the Piazza Grande in Arezzo. (May 10, 2023)My kitchenette at La Corte Del Re off of the Piazza Grande in Arezzo. (May 10, 2023)An evening view of the Piazza Grande in Arezzo. (May 10, 2023)An evening view of the Piazza Grande in Arezzo. (May 10, 2023)
Seeing the beauty of the medieval Piazza Grande as the morning clouds are clearing with its sloping central area in Arezzo and the apse and massive bell tower of the the Romanesque church of Santa Maria della Pieve. (May 11, 2023)The small shops and restaurants alongside the Piazza Grande in Arezzo. (May 11, 2023)Along the Corso Italia with views of the Santa Maria della Pieve church and its bell tower finished in 1330 in Arezzo. (May 11, 2023)The Basilica of San Francesco in Arezzo was begun around 1290 but the façade decoration was never completed. The basilica is also where the artist Piero della Francesca (1415-1492) painted the celebrated sequence of frescos known as the “Legend of the True Cross” housed in the Bacci Chapel. It is regarded as one of the jewels of Italian art, which was restored in 1992. (May 11, 2023)The Basilica of San Francesco is a late Medieval church in Arezzo, Tuscany, Italy, dedicated to St Francis of Assisi. It is especially renowned for housing in the chancel the fresco cycle Legends of the True Cross by Piero della Francesca. (May 11, 2023)The sequence of frescos called the “Legend of the True Cross” painted by Piero della Francesco inside the Bacci Chapel (behind the high altar) of the Basilica of San Francesco in Arezzo took about 14 years to complete. These panels center on the legend of Empress Helena recovering Christ’s true cross during a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. One panel shows Judas being tortured into revealing the whereabouts of the cross, whose discovery leads to miracles and battles before being returned to Jerusalem by Emperor Heraclius. (May 11, 2023)The sequence of frescos called the “Legend of the True Cross” painted by Piero della Francesco inside the Bacci Chapel (behind the high altar) of the Basilica of San Francesco in Arezzo took about 14 years to complete. (May 11, 2023)This “Legend of the True Cross” panel painted by Piero della Francesco inside the Bacci Chapel of the Basilica of San Francesco in Arezzo consists of three sections. From the top down is the Exaltation of the Cross; the Discovery and Proof of the True Cross; and Battle between Heraclius and Chosroes. (May 11, 2023)This “Legend of the True Cross” panel painted by Piero della Francesco inside the Bacci Chapel of the Basilica of San Francesco in Arezzo consists of three sections. From the top down is the Death of Adam; Adoration of the Holy Wood and the Meeting of Solomon and the Queen of Sheba; and the Battle between Constantine and Maxentius. (May 11, 2023)Alice checking out the sequence of frescos called the “Legend of the True Cross” painted by Piero della Francesco inside the Bacci Chapel (behind the high altar) of the Basilica of San Francesco in Arezzo took about 14 years to complete. (May 11, 2023)A close-up of the frescoes called the “Legend of the True Cross” painted by Piero della Francesco inside the Bacci Chapel (behind the high altar) of the Basilica of San Francesco in Arezzo. (May 11, 2023)The frescos by the window in the Bacci Chapel of the Basilica of San Francesco in Arezzo are a part of a sequence of frescos called the “Legend of the True Cross” painted by Piero della Francesco. From the top left down: Torture of the Jew and the Annunciation. And, from the top right down: Burial of the Wood and Constantine’s Dream. (May 11, 2023)A close-up of the frescoes called the “Legend of the True Cross” painted by Piero della Francesco inside the Bacci Chapel (behind the high altar) of the Basilica of San Francesco in Arezzo. (May 11, 2023)A close-up of the Annunciation, part of a sequence of frescos called the “Legend of the True Cross” painted by Piero della Francesco inside the Bacci Chapel of the Basilica of San Francesco in Arezzo. (May 11, 2023)This poster in the Piazza Grande is about the 1997 Italian language film, “Life Is Beautiful,” co-written by and starring Roberto Benigni, was set in Arezzo. A synopsis of the movie: “A gentle Jewish-Italian waiter, Guido Orefice (Roberto Benigni), meets Dora (Nicoletta Braschi), a pretty schoolteacher, and wins her over with his charm and humor. Eventually they marry and have a son, Giosue (Giorgio Cantarini). Their happiness is abruptly halted, however, when Guido and Giosue are separated from Dora and taken to a concentration camp. Determined to shelter his son from the horrors of his surroundings, Guido convinces Giosue that their time in the camp is merely a game.” (May 11, 2023)
Italy Days 25 & 26: Frescoes, Vasari, Amphitheater & More in Arezzo
After leisurely enjoying Arezzo and relaxing, it was time to see more or this small, but quite charming medieval city. In comparison to the previous days, we explored a little more during our last two days in Arezzo. First by visiting the house, now museum, designed by Italian Renaissance Master, Giorgio Vasari, who was born in Arezzo. Vasari built the house in Arezzo in 1547 and decorated its walls and vaults with paintings.
We also spent time in the Arezzo Cathedral, officially the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Donatus and the city’s first cathedral was initially constructed in 1277 but has gone through different phases until 1511. The façade was built in 1901–1914, replacing the previous, unfinished one, dating to the 15th century.
Founded by the Etruscans in the 4th century BC, Arezzo had a high status as a military station during the Roman period until the early Middle Ages when it began to decay and the late Middle Ages when it began its prosperity.
At the Archeological Museum adjacent to and built from the Roman Amphitheater remains we pretty much enjoyed an unexpected, but much appreciated private tour with Pietro. He introduced Alice and I to some of the gems inside the museum, which I’ve included in this post. Thank you Pietro for sharing your time and knowledge with us.
Plus we visited two more churches, the Santa Maria della Pieve church, built around the year 1008. It is considered as one of the most important examples of Romanesque architecture in the entire Tuscany region and the apse of the church overlooks into the Piazza Grande contributing to making this central area even more attractive. And, we visited the Basilica of San Domenico, a sober Tuscan Gothic-style church dedicated to St. Dominic in Arezzo. The construction began in 1275 and was completed in the 1300’s. And, closeby were some of remaining ancient walls of Arezzo.
So here’s a wonderful compilation of our time wondering peacefully, without the crowds, in medieval Arezzo.
(Next stop, Perugia)
Me in the garden of the Casa Vasari, now a museum, in Arezzo. The house was designed by Italian Renaissance Master, Giorgio Vasari, who was born in Arezzo. Vasari built the house in Arezzo in 1547 and decorated its walls and vaults with paintings. (May 12, 2023)The entrance to the Arezzo home, now museum of Renaissance Master Giorgio Vasari (1511-1574) Vasari designed the Tomb of Michelangelo at the Basilica of Santa Croce in Florence, completed in 1578. The house was built in 1547. (May 12, 2023)Entering the first floor room of the Casa Vasari, the former home and now museum of Giorgio Vasari, in Arezzo. The rooms, frescoed by Vasari, show Biblical and Mythological scenes and allegories. (May 12, 2023)The Room of Apollo and the Muses inside the Casa Vasari in Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)In the ceiling center of the Room of Apollo and the Muses in the Casa Vasari in Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)A copy of the portrait of Giorgio Vasari (the original is at the Uffizi Gallery in Florence) inside the Casa Vasari, now a museum, in Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)The Room of Virtue’s Triumph, frescoed about 1548 by Giorgio Vasari, inside the Casa Vasari, now a museum, in Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)The Room of Virtue’s Triumph, frescoed about 1548 by Giorgio Vasari, inside the Casa Vasari, now a museum, in Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)The Room of Virtue’s Triumph, frescoed about 1548 by Giorgio Vasari, inside the Casa Vasari, now a museum, in Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)The garden of the Casa Vasari, now a museum, in Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)The Basilica of San Domenico, a sober Tuscan Gothic-style church dedicated to St. Dominic in Arezzo. The construction began in 1275 and completed in the 14th century. (May 12, 2023)Inside the Basilica of San Domenico in Arezzo. The interior is decorated with frescoes from the 14th and 15th centuries by artists from Arezzo and Siena. The nave is illuminated by 12 Gothic single-lancet windows, six on each side. (May 12, 2023)Inside the Basilica of San Domenico in Arezzo. The interior is decorated with frescoes from the 14th and 15th centuries by artists from Arezzo and Siena. The nave is illuminated by 12 Gothic single-lancet windows, six on each side. (May 12, 2023)The Crucifix by Cimabue painted in 1265 inside the Basilica of San Domenico in Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)At the entrance to the Basilica of San Domenico in Arezzo are two elaborate frescos. (May 12, 2023)To the right of the front entrance inside the Basilica of San Domenico in Arezzo is the Holy Apostles Flippo and Giacomo or Philip and James fresco with four stories of miracles and their martyrdom surrounding the two saints. (May 12, 2023)To the left of the front entrance inside the Basilica of San Domenico is the Crucifixion with the Virgin and St. Nicholas on the right and St. John and St. Dominic on the left. (May 12, 2023)The frescoed chapel-altar inside the Basilica of San Domenico in Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)Remnants of the medieval walls of Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)Remnants of the medieval walls of Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)Remnants of the medieval walls of Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)Remnants of the medieval walls of Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)The Arezzo Cathedral, officially the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Donatus, was the city’s first cathedral. The construction of the current structure, started in 1277, went through different phases, and ended in 1511. The façade was built in 1901–1914, replacing the previous, unfinished one, dating to the 15th century. (May 12, 2023)The Arezzo Cathedral, officially the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Donatus, was the city’s first cathedral. (May 12, 2023)The ceiling frescos of the Arezzo Cathedral were commissioned in 1520 to Guillaume de Marcillat, who completed the stained glass between 1516 and 1524. The vaults of the central nave are frescoes with biblical scenes. (May 12, 2023)The ceiling frescos of the Arezzo Cathedral were commissioned in 1520 to Guillaume de Marcillat, who completed the stained glass between 1516 and 1524. The vaults of the central nave are frescoes with biblical scenes. (May 12, 2023)A chapel inside the the Arezzo Cathedral. (May 12, 2023)Inside the the Arezzo Cathedral. (May 12, 2023)Inside the the Arezzo Cathedral. (May 12, 2023)The high altar of the Arezzo Cathedral the Arch of Saint Donatus (Arca di San Donato). The first cathedral of Arezzo was built on the nearby Pionta Hill, over the burial place of Donatus of Arezzo, martyred in 363. The cathedral however lost the relics of Donatus. In spite of this, the cathedral is still dedicated to Saint Donatus and at the high altar houses a 14th-century arch named after him. (May 12, 2023)The high altar of the Arezzo Cathedral the Arch of Saint Donatus (Arca di San Donato). Several Sienese, Florentine and Aretine (a person from Arezzo) artists have worked on the arch. The lower part is attributed to Agostino di Giovanni (ca. 1285-1347) and Agnolo di Ventura (ca. 1290-1349) from Siena, while Giovanni di Francesco from Arezzo, Betto di Francesco from Florence and several others worked on the upper part and completed the arch between 1364 and 1375. (May 12, 2023)A close-up of the Arch of St. Donatus inside the Arezzo Cathedral. (May 12, 2023)In the south aisle of the Arezzo Cathedral is the funerary monument of Pope Gregory X who died in 1276. (May 12, 2023)The chapel and tomb of Ciuccio Tarlati from 1334 inside the Arezzo Cathedral. (May 12, 2023)This beautiful fresco of Santa Maria Maddalena or Mary Magdalene was painted by Piero della Francesca before 1459, the year the great painter had probably completed the cycle of the Legend of the True Cross in the Church of Saint Francesco in Arezzo. She is portrayed according to the ancient iconography, her long hair worn loose, while holding in her hand the container of ointments that she would then rub on Jesus’ body in the Sepulchre. (May 12, 2023)Views of Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)Views of Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)Views of Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)Views of Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)A late lunch at the L. Indigeno Wine & Food bistro in the Piazza Grande in Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)Showing off my Ribollita and potatoes for our late lunch at the L. Indigeno Wine & Food bistro in the Piazza Grande in Arezzo. (May 12, 2023)Alice and I at the remains of the former Roman Amphitheater in Arezzo. Although few details remain of the Amphitheater It was founded in the Hadrian age, between 117 and 138 AD. The Romans, who conquered the Etruscans, built on top of the existing city re-utilizing many pre-existing buildings and architectural concepts even though they came with their own distinct contributions, the least of which was the Amphitheater estimated to seat 13,000 people. (May 13, 2023)The remains of the former Roman Amphitheater in Arezzo. It has suffered many looting and damage, so what remains now are the two entrances, the arches and the elliptical shape. (May 13, 2023)Etruscan and Roman era ceramics, glass and other artifacts of Arezzo are on display at the Archaeological Museum adjacent to and built from the Amphitheater remains. The curved shaped museum was initially a monastery built over the remains of the Roman Amphitheater. (May 13, 2023)This large painted vase, from Ancient Greece and on display at the Archaeological Museum in Arezzo, was made and painted by one of the most famous ceramicists in Athens, Euphronios. The vase shows a combat scene with Heracles and Telamon at the center fighting amazons. Although the vase was found in the 18th century near Arezzo, Euphronios (c. 535 – c. 470 BC) was an ancient Greek vase painter and potter, active in Athens. (May 13, 2023)An Etruscan alabaster cinerary urn at the Archaeological Museum in Arezzo. (May 13, 2023)A miniature portrait of a man and a beautiful glass jar-shaped cinerary urn (in the cabinet) at the Archaeological Museum adjacent to and built from the Amphitheater remains in Arezzo. (May 13, 2023)A miniature portrait of a man and a beautiful glass jar-shaped cinerary urn (in the cabinet) at the Archaeological Museum adjacent to and built from the Amphitheater remains in Arezzo. (May 13, 2023)A miniature portrait of a man and a beautiful glass jar-shaped cinerary urn (in the cabinet) at the Archaeological Museum adjacent to and built from the Amphitheater remains in Arezzo. (May 13, 2023)Beautiful glass beads made into bracelets from the 1st to 3rd century AD at the Archaeological Museum adjacent to and built from the Amphitheater remains in Arezzo. (May 13, 2023)The Piazza Grande with it sloping central area in Arezzo flanked by the multi-arched 16th-century Vasari Loggia designed by Renaissance man and one of Arezzo’s favorite sons with a home turned museum close by, Giorgio Vasari. (May 13, 2023)The Piazza Grande with it sloping central area in Arezzo and the apse and massive bell tower of the the Romanesque church of Santa Maria della Pieve. (May 13, 2023)The apse of the Santa Maria della Pieve church. Built around the year 1008, it is one of the most important examples of Romanic architecture in the entire Tuscany region. Its external walls are characterized by a series of columns that cover them almost entirely and each column has a capital different from the other: this makes Santa Maria della Pieve a work admirable for hours, if he lingered carefully on every detail. The interior, on the other hand, is particularly sober. The apse of the church overlooks the Piazza Grande and contributes to making this site even more attractive and fascinating. (May 13, 2023)The Piazza Grande in Arezzo. (May 13, 2023)Along the Corso Italia with views of the Santa Maria della Pieve church and its bell tower finished in 1330 in Arezzo. (May 13, 2023)Along the Corso Italia with views of the Santa Maria della Pieve church and its bell tower finished in 1330 in Arezzo. (May 13, 2023)Along the Corso Italia with views of the Santa Maria della Pieve church and its bell tower finished in 1330 in Arezzo. (May 13, 2023)Along the Corso Italia with views of the Santa Maria della Pieve church and its bell tower finished in 1330 in Arezzo. (May 11, 2023)The entrance exterior of the Santa Maria della Pieve church documented since as early as 1008 in Arezzo. It had been rebuilt in the 12th century with the facade and the apse. And, the interior was renovated in the 13th century in the Gothic style. (May 13, 2023)Inside the the Santa Maria della Pieve church in Arezzo. (May 13, 2023)The Polyptych with the Virgin and Child; Saints John the Evangelist, Donato, John the Baptist and Matthew by Pietro Lorenzetti from circa 1320 to 1324 at a niche in the high altar of the Santa Maria della Pieve church in Arezzo. (May 13, 2023)The Polyptych with the Virgin and Child; Saints John the Evangelist, Donato, John the Baptist and Matthew by Pietro Lorenzetti from circa 1320 to 1324 at a niche in the high altar of the Santa Maria della Pieve church in Arezzo. (May 13, 2023)The crypt under the high altar of the Santa Maria della Pieve church in Arezzo where the 1346 reliquary bust in gilded silver of San Donato Vescovo, the patron saint of Arezzo, is kept. (May 13, 2023)The crypt under the high altar of the Santa Maria della Pieve church in Arezzo where the 1346 reliquary bust in gilded silver of San Donato Vescovo, the patron saint of Arezzo, is kept. (May 13, 2023)The crypt under the high altar of the Santa Maria della Pieve church in Arezzo where the 1346 reliquary bust in gilded silver of San Donato Vescovo, the patron saint of Arezzo, is kept. (May 13, 2023)The 1346 reliquary bust in gilded silver with the relics of San Donato Vescovo, the patron saint of Arezzo in the crypt under the high altar of the the interior of the crypt where the Santa Maria della Pieve church in Arezzo. (May 13, 2023)A side view of the Santa Maria della Pieve church in Arezzo. (May 13, 2023)Along the Corso Italia in Arezzo. (May 13, 2023)
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