60 Days of Italy – Parma – My Travel Notions

Italy Day 11: Quick Parma Intro – a Late Lunch & a Stroll in Italy’s Emilia Romagna Region

Me enjoying my late lunch of at Zambelli 1914 Flavors of Parma Pastry San Biagio in Parma. I have a great glass of red wine, a bubbly Lambrusco with Tortelli alla Parmigiana, homemade pasta stuffed with Parmesan cheese and spinach in a creamed butter with of course, more Parmesan. I don’t normally go in for so much Parmesan but this was delicious. I believe I’m going to enjoy the food of Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region. Plus Alice and I shared a salad that was also delicious. (April 28, 2023)

My late lunch at Zambelli 1914 Flavors of Parma Pastry San Biagio in Parma, Tortelli alla Parmigiana, homemade pasta stuffed with Parmesan cheese and spinach in a creamed butter with of course, more Parmesan. I don’t normally go in for so much Parmesan but this was delicious. (April 28, 2023)

The fresh delicious salad, Alice and I shared during our late lunch at Zambelli 1914 Flavors of Parma Pastry San Biagio in Parma. (April 28, 2023)

A getting to know Parma walk. (April 28, 2023)

The Piazza Ghiaia in the historic center of Parma has been used as a city market since around 1232 and was once used as a livestock market. Today, the iron and glass covered market contains rows of stalls selling antiques, vintage clothing, household goods, flowers, even fruits and vegetables. And at one end of the market are the foundation remains of an ancient stone Roman bridge. (April 28, 2023)

The Piazza Ghiaia in the historic center of Parma. (April 28, 2023)

The foundation remains of a Roman-era bridge from around 183 BC is at one end of the Piazza Ghiaia market in the historic center of Parma. According to local tradition, the bridge was built on the Via Emilia, a road connecting the diverse natural and cultural landscapes of the region, over the River Parma in the time of Augustus, around 31 BC – 14 AD, and later rebuilt by Theodoric, King of the Visigoths from 418 to 451 AD. It remained in use for more than 1,000 years, in part to its location on the Via Emilia, which gave access to Parma but also to the entire region. (April 28, 2023)

The foundation remains of a Roman-era bridge from around 183 BC is at one end of the Piazza Ghiaia market in the historic center of Parma. (April 28, 2023)

The Plaza Duomo with the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta or the Parma Cathedral and its bell tower along with the Baptistry of San Giovanni Battista or Baptistry of Parma in Parma. The Palazzo Della Rosa-Prati, to the right of the Baptistry, (which you can’t see in this photo) is where Alice and I stayed.(April 28, 2023)

The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta or the Parma Cathedral in Parma began construction in 1059. The church was heavily damaged by an earthquake in 1117 and had to be restored. (April 28, 2023)

Inside the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta or the Parma Cathedral in Parma. Construction began in 1059 but the church was heavily damaged by an earthquake in 1117 and had to be restored. (April 28, 2023)

The ceiling inside the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta or the Parma Cathedral in Parma. (April 28, 2023)

The frescoes along the central nave by Lattanzio Gambara inside the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta or the Parma Cathedral in Parma tells the story of the Life of Christ and also depicts episodes from the Old Testament. (April 28, 2023)

The main feature of the interior inside the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta or the Parma Cathedral in Parma is this fresco of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary decorating the dome. At the centre of the cupola is Christ, who descends from the light in a pose whose plasticity was incredibly innovative at the time.
It was executed by Antonio Allegri da Correggio (1489–1534), usually known as just Correggio in 1526-1530. He was the foremost painter of the Parma school of the High Italian Renaissance, who was responsible for some of the most sensuous works of the 16th century.

Inside the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta or the Parma Cathedral in Parma. (April 28, 2023)

nside the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta or the Parma Cathedral in Parma. (April 28, 2023)

The “Deposition” from 1178 AD inside the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta or the Parma Cathedral in Parma.
“Joseph of Arimathea holds the body of the Christ, his arms embracing him at the waist in a gesture of strength as, with profound tenderness, he presses his face on the wound in his chest.
The arm (already freed from the nail) is supported by the Archangel Gabriel, who leads the hand of Jesus towards his Mother’s face. On the opposite side, Nicodemus leans on a ladder to free the hand of Christ. Between Nicodemus and the centurion, the Synagogue with the standard lowered, signifying the end of the first alliance. On the top corners, two heads inside wreathes: to the left a male represents the Sun and to the right a female represents the Moon. The Deposition was part of a decorative structure destroyed in 1566,” as described on the signage. (April 28, 2023)

The lions on the exterior of the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta or the Parma Cathedral in Parma with the Baptistry of San Giovanni Battista or the Baptistry of Parma. And, the octagonal Baptistry, built between 1196 and 1216, 1196, is made of pink Verona. Designed by Benedetto Antelami, and built between 1196 and 1216, the Baptistery of Parma is one of the most important monuments of the transition from Romanesque to early Gothic architecture. (April 28, 2023)

The Baptistry of San Giovanni Battista or the Baptistry of Parma next to our hotel, the Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati. (April 28, 2023)

Staying right where the action is at the Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati hotel in Parma next to the Baptistry of Parma and the Cathedral, which we’ll explore during our stay. (April 28, 2023)

Entering our home away from home, the Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati hotel in Parma. (April 28, 2023)

Our home away from home, the Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati hotel in Parma. (April 28, 2023)

My huge and wonderful room inside the Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati hotel in Parma. (April 28, 2023)

My huge bathroom inside the Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati hotel in Parma. (April 28, 2023)

Italy Day 12: Parma Monastery, Church & Food Tour

The wonderful itinerary Alice and I are following as we travel through Italy was put together by none other than the amazing Alice. I remember mentioning to Alice, a couple of years ago, how much I wanted to travel leisurely through Italy. From one end to the other, with a mixture of places I’d been to and some new ones, and she responded by wanting to do the same.

Later, while I was traveling, somewhere, I don’t remember, Alice suggested she start putting together a draft itinerary for us to work from. I wholeheartedly agreed. And, once I saw her comprehensive itinerary, I was overwhelmingly pleased. I would be remiss to not mention that this itinerary, through Italy, was Alice’s wonderful work. She is the “Travel Research Queen,” and I am so grateful for her companionship, friendship and organizational skills. Plus, we are independent travelers who can travel together and still do our own thing.

Kudos to Alice!

Okay, now let’s talk about Parma.

It is a small historical gem founded in 183 BC as a Roman colony. Parma is in Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region known for its architecture, classical music and art. It’s also known for its culinary delights of prosciutto (cured ham) and cheese found in Parma’s surrounding countryside.

Since we’re in Parma for several nights, it’s so much easier to either see certain parts of or all the historical sections of a complex in a day. For today’s post it’s all about the monastic complex of San Giovanni Evangelista formed by the Church, the Convent and the Historical Pharmacy, which unfortunately was closed. And our early evening began with a food walking tour around Parma.

Let’s explore Parma and eat some delicious tasties.

Alice and I toasting to our delicious prosciutto at the Antica Salumeria Alimentaria Rastelli on Strada della Repubblica during our Food Walking Tour through Parma. I so appreciate Alice’s zest for good food, history, art, travel and travel planning. She’s quite the travel partner. Prosciutto cheers to Alice! (April 29, 2023)

We began our first full day in Parma, way before the Food Walking Tour, with the monastic complex of San Giovanni Evangelista, that includes the Benedictine complex of the church, the monastery and a pharmacy (that’s closed) located in Piazzale San Giovanni in Parma. (April 29, 2023)

Inside the San Giovanni Evangelista monastery’s Library in Parma. The library was completed in 1523 but the frescos were not commissioned until 1574. (April 29, 2023)

The frescoed ceiling inside the San Giovanni Evangelista monastery’s Library in Parma. The library was completed in 1523 but the frescos were not commissioned until 1574. (April 29, 2023)

One of several map paintings inside the San Giovanni Evangelista monastery’s Library in Parma. The library was completed in 1523 but the frescos were not commissioned until 1574. (April 29, 2023)

One of the three cloisters inside the San Giovanni Evangelista monastery in Parma. The cloister, called Cloister of the Chapter, was built using the capitals of a previous cloister. Between the windows of the cells on the top floor there are some Baroque medallions representing figures of Saints. (April 29, 2023)

The corridor with the frescoed wall of the Cloister of the Chapter inside the San Giovanni Evangelista monastery in Parma which dates back to the 1500s. Under the loggia there’s the entrance to the chapter room with a carved framed door sculpted by Antonio Ferrari d’Agrate. (April 29, 2023)

The carved frame door sculpted by Antonio Ferrari d’Agrate in the corridor of the Cloister of the Chapter inside the San Giovanni Evangelista monastery in Parma. (April 29, 2023)

From the monastery of San Giovanni Evangelista (to the left), it is easy to enter the decisively spectacular church of San Giovanni Evangelista in Parma (to the right). The first church was built between 980 and 988 and replaced an older oratory. The first complex was destroyed by a fire in 1477 and was rebuilt by the architect Bernardino Zaccagni between 1490 and 1519. The façade of the church was designed by Simone Moschino and completed in 1607 by Giovan Battista Carra da Bissone. (April 29, 2023)

The church of San Giovanni Evangelista in Parma. (April 29, 2023)

Inside the magnificent church of San Giovanni Evangelista in Parma. The church was built for the Benedectine order between 1498 and 1510. (April 29, 2023)

Inside the magnificent church of San Giovanni Evangelista in Parma with the fresco of the “Passage of St. John the Evangelist,” in the above lighted dome. The church was built for the Benedectine order between 1498 and 1510. (April 29, 2023)

The dome inside the church of San Giovanni Evangelista fresco was painted by Antonio Allegri da Correggio (August 1489-March 1534), normally known as just Correggio, with this fresco of the “Passage of St. John the Evangelist, (1520-1522). The fresco, whose vault has no light and only receives light from the four oculi set on the dome’s sides, illustrates the passing away of Saint John, the last of the Apostles to die, aged over a hundred, at Ephesus. The evangelist is depicted as an old man gazing up at the sky, while the central figure of Christ is moving towards him. It is a traditional belief that at the moment of his death Christ came to meet him, surrounded by all Apostles. (April 29, 2023)

The high altar and presbytery of the San Giovanni Evangelista church in Parma. In the basin of the presbytery, above the altar, is the “Coronation of the Virgin.” (April 29, 2023)

A close-up of the “Coronation of the Virgin,” in the basin of the presbytery above the altar inside the San Giovanni Evangelista church in Parma. The fresco was made by Cesare Aretusi in 1586. (April 29, 2023)

A chapel of Jesus Christ inside the San Giovanni Evangelista church in Parma. (April 29, 2023)

My feet selfie of the floors inside the San Giovanni Evangelista church in Parma. (April 29, 2023)

Walking through central Parma. (April 29, 2023)

The Baptistry of San Giovanni Battista or the Baptistry of Parma under renovation. And, our red-brick hotel to the right, the Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati. (April 29, 2023)

The Baptistry of San Giovanni Battista or the Baptistry of Parma. (April 29, 2023)

The west facing door, the “Portal of the Redeemer,” of the Baptistry of San Giovanni Battista or the Baptistry of Parma. (April 29, 2023)

The baptismal basin inside the Baptistry of San Giovanni Battista or the Baptistry of Parma. In the centre of the building stands the great octagonal basin in Verona marble, elevated on two steps that are also octagonal in shape. The basin, which was filled with water includes another smaller basin shaped as a four-leaf clover, a symbolic reference to the Cross. It was in this smaller basin that the celebrants used to stand. (April 29, 2023)

Inside the Baptistry of San Giovanni Battista or the Baptistry of Parma. (April 29, 2023)

An interior door inside the Baptistry of San Giovanni Battista or the Baptistry of Parma. (April 29, 2023)

The striking dome ceiling inside the Baptistry of San Giovanni Battista or the Baptistry of Parma is painted with 16 rays of paintings coming out of the ceiling Center and corresponding with each of the church’s arches. (April 29, 2023)

A second baptismal fond inside the arch of the Baptistry of San Giovanni Battista or the Baptistry of Parma.
The vegetation decoration on the font of dense interweaving branches with some animals is the tree of the Garden of Paradise. The base of the font is a crouching lion with its prey between its paws. The lion is the symbol of Christ conquering death, while the believers, raised to new life through baptism, are represented by the animals living in the foliage of the Garden of Paradise. (April 29, 2023)

The painted arches inside the Baptistry of San Giovanni Battista or the Baptistry of Parma. (April 29, 2023)

Some views of Parma, the Piazza Garibaldi. (April 28, 2023)

Some views of Parma, the Piazza Garibaldi. (April 29, 2023)

We began our food walking tour in Parma with cake, the Duchessa di Parma cake at Zambelli 1914 Flavors of Parma Pastry San Biagio in Parma where Alice and I had our first Parma meal when we arrived yesterday. (April 28, 2023)

We began our food walking tour in Parma with cake, the Duchessa di Parma cake at Zambelli 1914 Flavors of Parma Pastry San Biagio in Parma. Named for Maria-Luigia Bonaparte, the beloved duchess of Parma who married Napoleon Bonaparte in 1810. She arrived in Parma in 1816 and reigned for 32 years, leaving a rich heritage of her passage and her love for the city. As for the hazelnut cake, it contains pastry cream, zabaglione and chocolate ganache, topped with candied cherries, powdered sugar and chopped hazelnuts. (April 29, 2023)

A close-up of the Duchessa di Parma cake at Zambelli 1914 Flavors of Parma Pastry San Biagio in Parma. (April 29, 2023)

Heading down this alleyway in the center of Parma as we make our way to Pepen Panini for some tasty sandwiches. (April 29, 2023)

Inside the local and quite busy Pepen Panini, our 3rd stop for sandwiches, on our food walking tour in Parma. (April 29, 2023)

Alice enjoying her horsemeat little sandwiches, our 2nd stop along our food walking tour, at the Pepen Panini in Parma. It does look yummy and according to Alice, it tasted good. (April 29, 2023)

A close-up of Alice’s little horsemeat sandwiches at our 2nd stop along our food walking tour, at the Pepen Panini in Parma. (April 29, 2023)

I was rather bland about my sandwich at Pepen Panini in Parma, this rather delicious proscuitto with some kind of yummy spread with some soft, tasty bread. (April 29, 2023)

Views of Central Parma with the Strada della Repubblica open to us pedestrians. (April 29, 2023)

Our 3rd stop was to enjoy a charcuterie board of delicious Prosciutto di Parma (cured ham) at the Antica Salumeria Alimentaria Rastelli on Strada della Repubblica in Parma. (April 29, 2023)

Delicious Prosciutto di Parma (cured ham) at the Antica Salumeria Alimentaria Rastelli on Strada della Repubblica in Parma. (April 29, 2023)

Inside the Antica Salumeria Alimentaria Rastelli on Strada della Repubblica, our 3rd stop on our food walking tour in Parma. (April 29, 2023)

Our charcuterie board of four delicious types of Prosciutto di Parma (cured ham) and Salami at the Antica Salumeria Alimentaria Rastelli on Strada della Repubblica in Parma. (April 29, 2023)

Me, loving the delicious prosciutto at the Antica Salumeria Alimentaria Rastelli on Strada della Repubblica during our Food Walking Tour through Parma. (April 29, 2023)

A walk through one of Parma’s festively decorated streets. (April 29, 2023)

Making our way through central Parma to our next food stop, Sorelle Picchi. (April 29, 2023)

And, our 4th place stop during our food walking tour in Parma was at the Sorelle Picchi where Alice and I had this traditional pasta dish of Tortelli d’erbetta which originated in Parma. It is a pasta filled with a ricotta/spinach stuffing, a pumpkin stuffing and the green pasta had a meat stuffing. The noodle soup is called Anolini in brodo, a type of round ravioli, served in broth. (April 29, 2023)

Italy Day 13: Teatro Regio, the Pilotta & National Gallery in Parma

When Marie Louise of Austria arrived in Parma, she was Napoleon’s second wife and from April 1814 reigned as the Duchess of Parma until her death in 1847 at age 56. A duchess who brought art to the people of Parma and the people of Parma still thank her for it until this day.

One area Marie Louise brought a rich sense of art to Parma when she commissioned by architect Nicola Bettoli to design and build, what was initially called the Ducal Theatre, now the Teatro Regio. In the richness of opera, every season, in this now world-famous opera house is the annual Giuseppe Verdi Festival in October, an Italian composer best known for his operas and born near Parma.

Let’s start in the theater and make our way through the Pilotta and the National Gallery in Parma.

Me in one of box seats inside the Teatro Regio in Parma. Originally called the New Ducal Theatre, the Teatro Regio was built and designed by architect Nicola Bettoli at the behest of the Duchess Marie Louise of Habsburg-Lorraine. Construction began in 1821 during the reign of Marie Louise Duchess of Parma who, as Napoleon I’s divorced second wife preferred to divorce him and live in Parma rather than exile. The theatre was completed in 1829. (April 30, 2023)

The Teatro Regio (front right) and in the distance are two churches facing one another, the Chinese di Sant’Alessandro (right) just across the street from the Basilica of Santa Maria della Steccata (left). More on these two churches to come. (April 30, 2023)

The Teatro Regio in Parma completed in 1829. (April 29, 2023)

Inside the marbled foyer or lobby area of the Teatro Regio in Parma. (April 30, 2023)

A view of the late Franco Zeffirelli stage from the audience viewpoint for the Pagliacci opera inside the Teatro Regio in Parma. (April 30, 2023)

The stalls and boxes, including the ‘ridotta’ where Duchess of Parma Maria Luigia’s throne, inside the Teatro Regio in Parma. (April 30, 2023)

A staircase inside the Teatro Regio in Parma leads up to the large salon called the ‘ridotta’ where Duchess of Parma Maria Luigia’s throne was situated. The Duchess had direct access to this salon from the Ducal Palace, which today, no longer exists. (April 30, 2023)

A view inside of the Duchess of Parma Maria Luigia’s throne salon inside the Teatro Regio in Parma. (April 30, 2023)

The Duchess of Parma Maria Luigia’s throne salon inside the Teatro Regio in Parma with a direct, picture perfect view of the stage. (April 30, 2023)

The back way the Duchess of Parma Maria Luisa used to get to her salon inside the Teatro Regio from her Ducal Palace, which no longer exists because it was destroyed during World War II bombings in Parma. (April 30, 2023)

Part of our Teatro Regio tour in Parma was getting to go back stage to see this Franco Zeffirelli stage for the Pagliacci opera. This was mine and Alice’s first back stage tour and it was informative. Also, the Zeffirelli Collection houses more than 250 pieces of his works that include stage sketches, drawings and costume designs. (April 30, 2023)

The back stage inside the Teatro Regio in Parma. (April 30, 2023)

Back stage accessories inside the Teatro Regio in Parma. (April 30, 2023)

Marina, our guide for the Teatro Regio tour in Parma, talking to Alice and me about the back stage accessories and how quickly things have to move during the opera. (April 30, 2023)

The tailors and designers workshop at the Teatro Regio in Parma. (April 30, 2023)

Marina, our Teatro Regio guide, showing us some of the wardrobe/costume creations. (April 30, 2023)

The Pilotta Palace in Parma is a vast complex of buildings located in the historic center of Parma and is a symbol of the ducal power of the Farnese family. The Italian family ruled the duchy of Parma and Piacenza from 1545 to 1731. Several architects worked on its construction during different periods with the beginning of the work dating back to before 1583. (April 30, 2023)

The Pilotta Palace complex in Parma begun around 1583 as an oversize addition to the Farnese Family residence. The Pilotta was built on a gigantic scale: its tall, severe brick buildings are intricately interconnected and occasionally decorated with blind arches. (April 30, 2023)

The Pilotta Palace complex in Parma begun around 1583 as an oversize addition to the Farnese Family residence. (April 28, 2023)

The interior entryway of the Pilotta Palace into the Teatro Farnese and from there, into the National Gallery of Parma. (April 30, 2023)

The Teatro Farnese, housed in the Pilotta Palace in Parma, was built in 1618 by Giovanni Battista Aleotti. The theatre was almost destroyed by an Allied air raid during World War II (1944). It was rebuilt and reopened in 1962. (April 30, 2023)

The Teatro Farnese, housed in the Pilotta Palace in Parma. (April 30, 2023)

nside the National Gallery in Parma where unlike Leonardo da Vinci’s “Mona Lisa,” in the Louve in Paris there are now crowds around this small portrait painting of the head of a girl called “La Scapigliata” also by Leonardo da Vinci. (April 30, 2023)

A close-up of the small portrait head of a girl called “La Scapigliata” by Leonardo da Vinci circa 1492-1501 inside the National Gallery of Parma. (April 30, 2023)

The “Assumption of the Virgin with St. Benedict, Thomas the Apostle and Julian,” by Sandro Botticelli circa 1500-1510 inside the National Gallery of Parma. (April 30, 2023)

“Portrait of a Noblewoman, known as La Schiava Turca” or “Turkish Slave” by Francesco Mazzola detto il Parmigianino, circa 1532 in the National Gallery of Parma. (April 30, 2023)

“Adoration of the Magi with St. Clare and Francis,” by Giovan Battista Volponi, detto lo Scalabrino, circa 1510 inside the National Gallery of Parma. (April 30, 2023)

“Dead Christ supported by three angels, St. Dominic and donor,” by Domenico Tintoretto, circa 1590-1600 inside the National Gallery of Parma. (April 30, 2023)

The Marie Louise Hall, also known as the “Hall of Columns“, was designed by the architect Nicolò Bettoli between 1821 and 1825 inside the National Gallery of Parma. At the entryway of the hall is a niche with the sculpture of Marie Louise the Austrian archduchess who reigned as the Duchess of Parma from 1814 until her death in 1847. (April 30, 2023)

The sculpture of the Duchess of Parma Marie Louise by Antonio Canova inside the hall named after her in the National Gallery of Parma. (April 30, 2023)

Italy Day 14: More of Wonderful Parma Before Bidding Arrivederci

The churches can be a little dark but are also quite free to enter in Parma. They are places of worship yet they are also historical keepers of the artistic talents of its people and those who believed in educating about Christianity through profound, meaningful and beautiful art.

It’s our last full day in Parma and we’ve just touched the surface of the city’s food and historical art.

The beauty of slow travel, where you spend a few days in one place, is that you begin to develop an understanding and connection. Parma is a good place to connect.

Arrivederci Parma! Ciao Bologna!