60 Days of Italy: Venice – My Travel Notions

It was a world-wind week leading up to a world-wind planned trip to Italy. World-wind week in that I had a lot of last minute things to do, like move my almost 90-year-old mother to a new place, and world-wind trip because I will be spending the next two months traveling, with my travel buddy Alice, through this incredible country.

Although I’ve been to Italy before, there’s still so much to see and do.

I look forward to you joining me on this Italian adventure beginning in one of my favorite places, Venice!

Andiamo! Let’s go!

Italy Day 1: Ah! Venice!

The best way to get over jet lag and airplane food is a walking tour that includes good food in Venice! The city itself is a gorgeous masterpiece of slow decay that is unlike any city in the world.

I’ve said this before and it bares repeating, you have to stay in Venice, not pop in for a day, to discover its magic. I am utterly smitten by its charm and history. And now, I’m even moved by its cuisine.

Let’s explore a bit of Venice and its yummies!

My selfie with the Grand Canal in Venice as my backdrop! Arrived early in the afternoon to be beautiful not too hot, not too cold day. (April 18, 2023)

The busy Grand Canal in Venice! I took an express bus from Venice’s Marco Polo Airport and then with my 7-day vaporetto or water taxi pass in hand took the water taxi to my hotel at the Accademia stop. (April 18, 2023)

The Rialto Bridge in Venice! The Rialto is the oldest bridge across the Grand Canal and is renowned as an architectural and engineering achievement of the Renaissance. It has been rebuilt several times since its first construction as a pontoon bridge in 1173. (April 18, 2023)

The Rialto Bridge is the oldest bridge across the Grand Canal in Venice. (April 18, 2023)

The Campo San Giacomo di Rialto, the meeting place for our food walking tour in Venice, was for centuries the place where trade was conducted. Located next to the famous Rialto Bridge, the church is said to have been consecrated on March 25, 421, on the very date of the legendary founding of Venice. (April 18, 2023)

The Campo San Giacomo di Rialto, the meeting place for our food walking tour in Venice, was for centuries the place where trade was conducted. (April 18, 2023)

Our “Savor Italy Tours” guide Holly taking us to our first of six places on the food walking tour in Venice. This was all about the delicious pastries at the Pasticceria Bar Targa. But there was also wine. In fact wine was a big part of this walking tour and I enjoyed the Spumante Dolce Cara Mea at this pasticceria. (April 18, 2023)

Walking thru the back streets of Venice! (April 18, 2023)

Our 2nd stop was at the legendary Cantina Do Mori in Venice with its small portions of food called Cicchetti that you stand to eat with a drink in Venice. This age old lively bar dates from 1462 and the legendary Casanova himself was said to hang out here. I had the baccalà, creamy salt cod, smeared over bread. (April 18, 2023)

Our 3rd stop at the Ruga Rialto in Venice when I tried the traditional Venetian dish of sardines with onions that had a sour, salty, delicious taste on a piece of bread, of course. (April 18, 2023)

Along with the sardines and onions at the Riga Rialto in Venice was this plate of fried seafood. I’m not much for squid, octopus or anything else, except shrimp and fish. But the shrimp were so good, you could eat them whole and that’s exactly what I did.(April 18, 2023)

And, the last thing on the menu at the Riga Rialto in Venice was this pasta with tigers prawns and zucchini. Oh my! By this time, I was getting full but I just could not stop and ate it all. And, the colorful drink is what we know as an Aperol Spritz but this one is called the Select Aperol Spritz. Although the food was delicious, I will stick to the wine and not the Aperol Spritz. (April 18, 2023)

Peering down one of the many canals and more than 450 bridges that piece the islands of Venice together. (April 18, 2023)

Our 5th stop where we drank more wine and ate the freshest, softest and most savory salami and prosciutto was at the Salumeria in Venice. (April 18, 2023)

The tasty salami to the left and the freshest prosciutto to the right from the Salumeria in Venice. There was also cheese, but I must confess, I’m not a big cheese person. (April 18, 2023)

Peering down another of the many canals and more than 450 bridges that piece the islands of Venice together. (April 18, 2023)

Walking up the center shops area of the Rialto Bridge that crosses the Grand Canal in Venice. (April 18, 2023)

Peering into a shop of masks of the Rialto Bridge which crosses the Grand Canal in Venice. (April 18, 2023)

Peering into a shop on the Rialto Bridge which crosses the Grand Canal in Venice. (April 18, 2023)

A view of the Grand Canal from the Rialto Bridge in Venice. (April 18, 2023)

Had to get a selfie while standing on the Rialto Bridge in Venice. (April 18, 2023)

And, our 6th and final stop on my Our “Savor Italy Tours” food walking tour was for gelato at the Gelateria Ca’ d’ Oro in Venice. I’m usually a sucker for coconut gelato but today I went with the vanilla and dark chocolate chips. Delizioso! (April 18, 2023)

Although my room at the Hotel Agli Alboretti looks like a monks cell and is tiny….the view is wondrous! (April 18, 2023)

The big, beautiful view from my tiny monk-like room at the Hotel Agli Alboretti. How spectacular is this?!?!?! (April 18, 2023)

My hotel in Venice, the Hotel Agli Alboretti, Just 164 feet or 50 meters from the Accademia and a few minutes walk from the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, the Alboretti is located in Venice’s Dorsoduro quarter. (April 18, 2023)

A night view of the Grand Canal in Venice! (April 18, 2023)

A night view of the Rialto Bridge across the Grand Canal in Venice! For now, Buona notte …Goodnight! (April 18, 2023)

Italy Day 2: Tucked Away Venice

The crowds of Venice can be tough. And, yes, there are crowds. People are traveling. And pretty much only a handful of people wear masks. I brought several and I always keep one with me but I’ve yet to use one. Don’t get me wrong, I am not an anti-masker. I am up-to-date on my vaccines and I’m prepared to put on a mask if and when I need to, I just haven’t found the need…yet.

But let’s move on as to why I’m in Venice for five nights. That answer should be obvious, heck, it’s Venice.

The Republic of Venice was founded in 697, after the decline of the Roman empire, by people escaping from Germanic invasions. People fled from the mainland to the small islands in the lagoon, which were difficult to reach and easy to defend.

I’ve read there are some 391 bridges in Venice crossing 150 canals while connecting some 117 or so islands to each other to create this unusual magnificence.

So, I’m partly here for its history. But I’m really here for its unusual beauty. And the opportunity to walk its nooks and crannies where the crowds of day trippers cease to exist and the locals take precedence.

I did a walking tour today of tucked away places in the Dorsoduro and San Polo sestieres or districts of Venice. It included some tucked-away monuments but for me, it was all about the tucked away Venice that mainly the locals get to see and that I got to enjoy.

Come enjoy the locals non-crowded version of Venice with me.

The Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal is definitely not a hidden or a tucked away Venice but it’s the only photo of myself taken today, during this quick stop through to some less crowded areas. (April 19, 2023)

Found this map online at wanderingitaly.com. Venice is divided into six districts, each of them is called sestiere: Cannaregio, Dorsoduro, San Polo, San Marco, Santa Croce, Castello. Shaped like a fish, Venice is in the middle of the Venetian Lagoon, an enclosed bay of the Adriatic Sea. The 1117 or so islands that make up Venice are actually built on top of some 10 million oak tree poles hammered into the clay ground of the water.

Morning walk views along a bridge and canal in the Dorsoduro sestiere or district of Venice. (April 19, 2023)

This is more of what I had in mind to show that there are places in Venice where the crowds have not taken over. This is Campo San Pantalon in the Dorsoduro sestiere or district of Venice. And, home to the Chiesa di San Pantaleone Martire, known as the Church of San Pantalon. (April 19, 2023)

The exterior of the austere of the rather plain-looking 17th century Chiesa di San Pantaleone Martire, known as the Church of San Pantalon, in the Dorsoduro sestiere or district of Venice is home to a dramatic ceiling painting. (April 19, 2023)

More of Campo San Pantalon in the Dorsoduro sestiere or district of Venice home to the Chiesa di San Pantaleone Martire, known as the Church of San Pantalon on the right. (April 19, 2023)

Inside the rather ornate and beautiful 17th century Chiesa di San Pantaleone Martire, known as the Church of San Pantalon, in the Dorsoduro sestiere or district of Venice is home to a dramatic ceiling painting. (April 19, 2023)

The stunning altar of the 17th century Chiesa di San Pantaleone Martire, known as the Church of San Pantalon, in the Dorsoduro sestiere or district of Venice. (April 19, 2023)

The ceiling painting inside the 17th century Chiesa di San Pantaleone Martire, known as the Church of San Pantalon, in the Dorsoduro sestiere or district of Venice. The immense painting depicts “The Martydom and Apotheosis of St. Pantalon. It was painted on canvas by Venetian born Gian Antonio Fumiani between 1680 and 1704 when he fell to his death from the scaffolding. (April 19, 2023)

One of the side chapels inside the Chiesa di San Pantaleone Martire, known as the Church of San Pantalon, in the Dorsoduro sestiere or district of Venice. (April 19, 2023)

The side chapels inside the Chiesa di San Pantaleone Martire, known as the Church of San Pantalon, in the Dorsoduro sestiere or district of Venice. (April 19, 2023)

A walk thru the San Polo sestiere or district of Venice. (April 19, 2023)

One of the many narrow walkways in Venice. (April 19, 2023)

A walk thru the San Polo sestiere or district of Venice with what use to be a well of rain water for the people in the neighborhood to get their drinking water. (April 19, 2023)

A walk across one of the many bridges and canals of Venice thru the San Polo sestiere or district. (April 19, 2023)

A gondola parked along a canal in the San Polo sestiere or district. (April 19, 2023)

A gondolier rowing across a canal in the San Polo sestiere or district of Venice. (April 19, 2023)

The mailman delivering mail in the San Polo sestiere or district of Venice. (April 19, 2023)

A canopy walkway by a canal in the San Polo sestiere or district of Venice. (April 19, 2023)

A walk by the Rialto Bridge. (April 19, 2023)

The crowded steps of the Rialto Bridge. (April 19, 2023)

A busy square just steps from the Rialto Bridge. (April 19, 2023)

The Fish Market along the Grand Canal in Venice. (April 19, 2023)

The Gondola Stand by the Fish Market along the Grand Canal in Venice. (April 19, 2023)

Italy Day 3: Venice’s Golden Basilica and Doge’s Palace

This chilly overcast day in Venice was dedicated to two of the island city landmarks of the Basilica di San Marco or St. Mark’s Basilica and the Palazzo Ducale or Doge’s Palace.

I’ve previously been to both but when in Venice, at least for me, visiting both of these in Venice’s grand main square, is a must.

So, let’s check them out.

Me in front of the Basilica di San Marco, more commonly known as St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice’s St. Mark’s Square. This catholic cathedral was originally to be an extension of the Doge’s Palace (to the right, but not pictured) however the construction of the Basilica, which began in 828 and ended in 832, was made to house the body of Saint Mark the Apostle brought from Alexandria named as the city’s protector and patron saint. April 20, 2023)

Took this yesterday of St. Mark’s Basilica while the sun was out and the skies were blue. It is dedicated to and holds the relics of Saint Mark the Evangelist, the patron saint of the city. (April 19, 2023)

Me in front of the Basilica di San Marco, more commonly known as St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice’s St. Mark’s Square. (April 20, 2023)

The Basilica di San Marco, more commonly known as St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice’s St. Mark’s Square. (April 20, 2023)

Under the arch of the Correr Museum is a view of St. Mark’s Square with the former religious and political center of the Republic of Venice, the St. Mark’s Basilica, the St. Mark’s Campanile tower and the Doge’s Palace. The tower, built between 1156 to 1173 had to be rebuilt in 1912 after it collapsed in 1902. (April 20, 2023)

The bell tower of St. Mark’s Campanile in St. Mark’s Basilica. The tower is a reconstruction completed in 1912, the previous tower having collapsed in 1902. It is one of the most recognizable symbols of the city. (April 20, 2023)

The Procuratie Vecchie in St. Mark’s Square next to St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice. (April 20, 2023)

The clocktower with the archway into the Mercerie leading to the Rialto Bridge is on St. Mark’s Square next to St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice. (April 20, 2023)

The clocktower with the archway into the Mercerie leading to the Rialto is on St. Mark’s Square in Venice. (April 20, 2023)

The gorgeous entrance hall into St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice with its gold-ground mosaics depicting saints, prophets, and biblical scenes. And, the colorful limestone and marble floors of geometric patterns, dates to either the late 11th century or the first half of the 12th century. (April 20, 2023)

The entrance to St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice with just the beginning of its golden mosaic tiles depicting saints, prophets and biblical scenes. (April 20, 2023)

The 13th century Dome of the Creation in the narthex of St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice. (April 20, 2023)

The central nave of St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice. (April 20, 2023)

The central nave of St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice as seen from the above museum area and loggia. (April 20, 2023)

The Dome of Immanuel above the high altar in St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice. (April 20, 2023)

The high altar in St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice. (April 20, 2023)

The aisle walkway of St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice with its stunning mosaic of colorful limestone and marble-designed floors. (April 20, 2023)

The stunningly colorful limestone and marble-mosaic floors inside St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice. (April 20, 2023)

My selfie with the Horses of Saint Mark also known as the Triumphal Quadriga or Horses of the Hippodrome of Constantinople, a set of four bronze horse statues, inside the museum area of St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice. (April 20, 2023)

The Horses of Saint Mark also known as the Triumphal Quadriga or Horses of the Hippodrome of Constantinople, is a set of bronze statues of four horses, inside the museum area of St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice. Originally, the horses were placed on the facade, on the loggia above the porch, of St Mark’s Basilica after the sacking and looting of Constantinople in 1204. They remained there until looted by Napoleon in 1797 but were returned in 1815. The sculptures were removed from the facade and placed in the interior of St Mark’s for conservation purposes, with replicas in their position on the loggia. (April 20, 2023)

The copies of theHorses of Saint Mark also known as the Triumphal Quadriga or Horses of the Hippodrome of Constantinople on the facade loggia above the porch of St Mark’s Basilica. The original sculptures were removed from the facade and placed in the interior of St Mark’s for conservation purposes, with these replicas placed in their position on the loggia. (April 20, 2023)

A view of St. Mark’s Square from the upstairs exterior loggia of St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice. (April 20, 2023)

The Doge’s Palace (left) facing the lagoon on the Piazzetta San Marco as seen from the loggia of St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice. Its famous façade of white limestone and pink marble, with its many arches and balconies, is a great example of Venetian architecture. In the distance on the columns on the Piazzetta is the Lion of Venice (left column) and St. Theodore (right column). To the right is the Marciana Library.
The Doge’s Palace, built in Venetian Gothic style, is one of the main landmarks of Venice along with St. Mark’s Basilica. The palace was the residence of the Doge of Venice, the supreme authority of the former Republic of Venice. It was built in 1340 and extended and modified in the following centuries. It became a museum in 1923.
The building has been the Doges’ residence and public offices since the old castle was built in 810. For some 1,000 years, 120 doges ruled over Venice from the Doge’s Palace. (April 20, 2023)

The Doge’s Palace, built in Venetian Gothic style, is one of the main landmarks of Venice along with St. Mark’s Basilica. The palace was the residence of the Doge of Venice, the supreme authority of the former Republic of Venice. It was built in 1340 and extended and modified in the following centuries. It became a museum in 1923.
The building has been the Doges’ residence and public offices since the old castle was built in 810. For some 1,000 years, 120 doges ruled over Venice from the Doge’s Palace. (April 20, 2023)

Exiting St. Mark’s Basilica to take the short walk to the Doge’s Palace and seeing more of its gold-ground mosaics depicting saints, prophets, and biblical scenes. And, the colorful limestone and marble floors of geometric patterns, dates to either the late 11th century or the first half of the 12th century. (April 20, 2023)

The colorful limestone and marble floors of geometric patters, throughout the interior entrance and exit of St. Mark’s Basilica, dates to either the late 11th century or the first half of the 12th century. (April 20, 2023)

The courtyard entrance to the Doge’s Palace in Venice. The palace was the residence of the Doge of Venice, the supreme authority of the former Republic of Venice. It was built in 1340 and extended and modified in the following centuries. It became a museum in 1923. (April 20, 2023)

The courtyard of the Doge’s Palace in Venice. (April 20, 2023)

The Scala d’Oro or Golden Staircase of the Doge’s Palace in Venice. The golden staircase owes its name to its classical, Roman-style decoration, with white and gold stucco. (April 20, 2023)

Some of the designs on the ceiling of the Scala d’Oro or Golden Staircase of the Doge’s Palace in Venice. The golden staircase owes its name to its classical, Roman-style decoration, with white and gold stucco. (April 20, 2023)

Inside the Doge’s Palace Sala del Collegio or the Council Chamber. The decor was designed by Andrea Palladio to replace the destroyed chamber in the 1574 fire. The wood panelling of the walls and end tribune – together with the carved ceiling – are the work of Francesco Bello and Andrea da Faenza. The splendid paintings set into the ceiling were commissioned from Paolo Veronese, who completed them between 1575 and 1578. (April 20, 2023)

Inside the Doge’s Palace Sala del Senato or the Senate Chamber. The senate is considered as one of the oldest public institutions in Venice and until the 16th century, it was the body mainly responsible for overseeing political and financial affairs in such areas as manufacturing industries, trade and foreign policy.
The refurbishment after the 1574 fire took place during the 1580s, and once the new ceiling had been completed work started on the pictorial decoration, which seems to have been finished by 1595. And the large ceiling painting is Tintoretto’s Triumph of Venice. (April 20, 2023)

A close-up of Tintoretto’s large Triumph of Venice on the ceiling of the Senate Chamber of the Doge’s Palace is an allegory of the city with Lady Venice, up in heaven with the Greek gods, while barbaric lesser nations swirl up to give her gifts. (April 20, 2023)

The Hall or Chamber of the Great Council inside the Doge’s Palace is the giant room that’s home to Tintoretto’s largest canvas painting, Paradise, behind the Doge’s throne. (April 20, 2023)

A close-up of Tintoretto’s painting Paradise inside the Hall or Chamber of the Great Council of the Doge’s Palace. The top central portion of the canvas marks the special presence of Jesus and Mary, archangels Gabriel and Michael, and a heavenly host of saints. (April 20, 2023)

A view of the Bridge of Sighs in the Doge’s Palace which we crossed over to go to the prison cells. The baroque-style Bridge of Sighs overpass, built in 1614 to link the Doge’s Palace to the prisons, supposedly refers to the sighs of prisoners, who after passing from the courtroom to the cell to serve their sentence, took a last look at freedom as they glimpsed the lagoon through the small windows. (April 20, 2023)

Prior to the 12th century, there were holding cells within the Doge’s Palace in Venice but during the 13th and 14th centuries more prison spaces were created to occupy the entire ground floor of the southern wing. (April 20, 2023)

Peering down the prison cell area of the Doge’s Palace in Venice. (April 20, 2023)

A prison door in the prison cell area of the Doge’s Palace in Venice. (April 20, 2023)

Looking down Scala dei Giganti or Giants’ Staircase from the first floor lodge of the Doge’s Palace in Venice to the tunneled entryway and flanked at the top of the staircase by Mars (right) and Neptune (left). (April 20, 2023)

Looking up at the Scala dei Giganti or Giants Staircase, flanked by Mars and Neptune, at the Doge’s Palace in Venice was the official entrance to the Doge’s Palace and built between 1483 and 1491. Mars, the god of war and of the earth, (left) and Neptune, god of the sea (right). The monumental staircase connects the courtyard to the inner lodge on the first floor and it was the place where the ceremony of the Doge’s coronation took place. (April 20, 2023)

After passing through the tunneled entryway/exit, are the portraits of the Four Tetrarchs, a porphyry sculpture group of four Roman emperors dating from around 300 AD. This group sculpture is said to have been fixed to the corner façade of St Mark’s Basilica, which is connected to the Doge Place in Venice since the Middle Ages. Purple robes were worn by Roman emperors to show their status. (April 20, 2023)

The Porta della Carta by Giovanni & Bartolomeo Bon above the tunneled archway connecting St. Mark’s Basilica and the Doge’s Palace shows St. Mark, the patron saint of Venice at the time in a circular frame supported by two angels. And at the bottom is Francesco Foscari and the Winged Lion. The Porta della Carta dates back to the first half of the 1400’s and is an exquisite example of the Late Gothic style in Venice. (April 20, 2023)

This corner column of the exterior of the Doge’s Palace, just outside the tunneled entry/exit connecting the palace at the Porta della Carta to St. Mark’s Basilica is the Judgment of King Solomon where he must decide who is the real mother of the baby claimed by two women. (April 20, 2023)

Italy Day 4: Churches, Peggy & lots of Art in Venice

Venice is Venice even when it’s overcast and raining but when the sun comes out and the skies are blue it just simply comes so gorgeously alive and picturesque.

I walked along a different side of the canal to the Basilica Santa Maria della Salute, commonly known simply as the Salute, a Roman Catholic Church. And from there I continued to walk across the bridges, canals, alleyways and squares to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Both within a 15 minute walk from my hotel and a great way to spend an early morning and afternoon.

I rested for a little while at my hotel and then took another walk to the Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari to see its museum-like art work. The churches of old, fascinate me with their sumptuous art and sculptures.

Let’s have a look, during my next to last day in dreamy Venice, with a tribute to a minuscule amount of its stunning and enormous artworks.

Me, making my way to the Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari in Venice. I just love walking the less crowded streets of Venice. (April 21, 2023)

The Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari in Venice. (April 21, 2023)

A side view of the Church of Santa Maria della Salute, Our Lady of Health, more commonly called La Salute in Venice. This entire church was built to honor the Virgin Mary during the time of the plague in the 1600s. La Salute is a vast, octagonal building with two domes and a pair of picturesque bell-towers at the back. It was built on some one million wood poles driven into the water and constructed of Istrian stone and brick covered with marble dust. (April 21, 2023)

The small canal and bridges that runs on the side of the the Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, Our Lady of Health, more commonly called La Salute in Venice. (April 21, 2023)

The Grand Canal view of the Church of Santa Maria della Salute, Our Lady of Health, more commonly called La Salute in Venice. This entire church was built to honor the Virgin Mary during the time of the plague in the 1600s. And, the exterior is currently undergoing renovations. La Salute is a vast, octagonal building with two domes and a pair of picturesque bell-towers at the back. It was built on some one million wood poles driven into the water and constructed of Istrian stone and brick covered with marble dust. (April 20, 2023)

The High Altar inside the unusual circular church of Santa Maria della Salute, a Roman Catholic Church, commonly known simply as La Salute. In 1630, Venice experienced an unusually devastating outbreak of the plague, the Black Death. As a votive offering for the city’s deliverance from the pestilence, the Republic of Venice vowed to build and dedicate a church to Our Lady of Health. The church was designed in the then fashionable Baroque style by Baldassare Longhena and construction began in 1631. (April 21, 2023)

The High Altar inside the unusual circular church of Santa Maria della Salute, a Roman Catholic Church, commonly known simply as La Salute with its beautiful circular mosaic floors. (April 21, 2023)

At the Baroque High Altar of the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute is the 12th or 13th century icon know as the “Panagia Mesopantitissa” in Greek or “Madonna the Mediator.” I’ve seen her referred to as the Madonna della Salute, a rare black-faced painting of Mary brought back from Candia in Crete in 1670 as war booty. (April 21, 2023)

This is as close as I could get to the iconic Byzantine Madonna and Child at the High Altar of the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute in Venice. Known as Panagia Mesopantitissa in Greek “Madonna the mediator” or “Madonna the negotiator” is said to be from the 12th or 13th century and brought to Venice from Candia in Crete 1670 after the fall of the city to the Ottomans.
This most revered image is also considered a rare black-faced painting of Mary and called Madonna Della Salute. Tradition has it that the artist was St Luke the Evangelist and that it is consequently a miraculous sacred image, but it was actually the work of a 12th century Madonna painter. (April 21, 2023)

The gold crown above the High Altar of the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute in Venice. (April 21, 2023)

A photo copy of the iconic Byzantine Madonna and Child at the High Altar of the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute in Venice. Known as Panagia Mesopantitissa in Greek “Madonna the mediator” or “Madonna the negotiator” is said to be from the 12th or 13th century and brought to Venice from Candia in Crete 1670 after the fall of the city to the Ottomans.
This most revered image is also considered a rare black-faced painting of Mary and called Madonna Della Salute. Tradition has it that the artist was St Luke the Evangelist and that it is consequently a miraculous sacred image, but it was actually the work of a 12th century Madonna painter. (April 21, 2023)

Walking the neighborhood streets, campos and bridges of Venice’s Dorsoduro sestieri or neighborhood to reach the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. (April 21, 2023)

Today was just my day to see the places I wanted to see at my own pace. So when I got to this courtyard, just before the entrance to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, I spotted the wooden bench to the left of the greenery and copped a squat in this little comfy courtyard as the sun made its presence know and the drips of rain dried up. (April 21, 2023)

My view while seated in the comfy courtyard just before heading up the steps and across the small canal to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice. (April 21, 2023)

A small interior sculpture garden of the Peggy Guggenheim Museum to enter the main collection once you’ve purchased your ticket. The art collection is housed in the 18th century Palazzo Venier dei Leoni and was the home of the American heiress Peggy Guggenheim for three decades. (April 21, 2023)

The exterior sculpture garden is named the Nasher Sculpture Garden at the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice and the yellow building houses the art collection of Guggenheim. The Nasher name is familiar to me because the Nasher Sculpture Center, which opened in 2003, is a sculpture museum located close to me in Dallas Arts District in Dallas, Texas. (April 21, 2023)

The Nasher Sculpture Garden at the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice. The restoration of this sculpture garden is a gift of the Patsy and Raymond D. Nasher and the Nasher Foundation in 1995. (April 21, 2023)

The main entryway and central room to the permanent collection inside the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice with two Picasso paintings, one on each side of the entryway. The 1928 oil and black crayon on canvas painting, the “Studio” is by Pablo Picasso (1881-1973). (April 21, 2023)

The “Studio” by Pablo Picasso (1881-1973) inside the main entryway of the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice dates from 1928 and is an oil and black crayon on canvas painting. (April 21, 2023)

This is the other Pablo Picasso (1881-1973) painting inside the main entryway and central room to the permanent collection of the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice. The painting entitled “On the Beach” is from February 1937. (April 21, 2023)

Inside the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice. (April 21, 2023)

This 1937 oil on canvas self-portrait entitled “Know Thyself” by Rita Kernn-Larsen (1904-1998) is at the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice. (April 21, 2023)

An artist that’s said to have been discovered and supported by American heiress and art collector Peggy Guggenheim is Jackson Pollock (1912-1956). This 1942 oil on canvas painting entitled “The Moon Woman” is at the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice. (April 21, 2023)

These beautiful blue glass sculptures from 1964 with a view of the Grand Canal at the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice are called “Glass sculptures after sketches by Picasso,” by Egidio Costantini (1912-2007). (April 21, 2023)

A close-up of some of the beautiful blue glass sculptures from 1964 with a view of the Grand Canal at the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice are called “Glass sculptures after sketches by Picasso,” by Egidio Costantini (1912-2007). (April 21, 2023)

This 1941-42 surrealist oil on canvas painting by Max Ernst (1891-1976) entitled “The Antipope” is at the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice. Ernst and Guggenheim were married from 1942 to 1946. (April 21, 2023)

Me hanging out on the Grand Canal balcony at the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice. (April 21, 2023)

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection is an art museum on the Grand Canal in the Dorsoduro sestiere of Venice and is one of the most visited places in Venice. The collection is housed in the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni an 18th-century palace which was also the American heiress’ home for three decades. (April 21, 2023)

Walking the neighborhood streets, campos and bridges of Venice’s San Polo sestieri or neighborhood for a late afternoon visit to the Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, more commonly called, the Frari. (April 21, 2023)

The Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, dedicated to the Assumption of Mary, is considered to be one of the largest churches in Venice. In 1231, under Doge Jacopo Tiepolo, the city donated land at this site to establish a monastery and church belonging to the Franciscan Order of Friars Minor. This edifice proved too small and a three-nave church was begun in 1250, but not completed until 1338. (April 21, 2023)

The Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, dedicated to the Assumption of Mary, is considered to be one of the largest churches in Venice. (April 19, 2023)

Looking down the hall of the massive Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, dedicated to the Assumption of Mary, is considered to be one of the largest churches in Venice. The painting seen through the arch, past the choir-screen, is “The Assumption of the Virgin,” the on the high altar. (April 21, 2023)

The choir-screen arch of the Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari is dedicated to the Assumption of Mary in Venice. And, through the screen on the High Altar is the painting of “The Assumption of the Virgin,” by the Italian Renaissance artist Titian painted in 1515–1518. (April 21, 2023)

The Assumption of the Virgin or Frari Assumption, popularly known as the Assunta, is a large altarpiece panel painting in oils by the Italian Renaissance artist Titian, painted in 1515–1518. It remains in the position it was designed for, on the high altar of the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari or Frari church in Venice.
Tiziano Vecelli or Vecellio (born c. 1488/90 – died 27 August 1576) is known in English as Titian. He was an Italian painter of the Renaissance who was considered the most important member of the 16th-century Venetian school of art. (April 21, 2023)

The Monument to Titian, the Italian Renaissance painter who painted “The Assumption of the Virgin” for the high altar of the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari is also entombed inside the Frari church in Venice. Originally, no memorial marked his grave. Much later the Austrian rulers of Venice commissioned Antonio Canova to sculpt this large monument still in the church. He was born Tiziano Vecelli or Vecellio around c. 1488/90 and died 27 August 1576. (April 21, 2023)

The Monument to Antonio Canova and Monument to Doge Giovanni Pesaro inside the left nave of the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari in Venice. (April 21, 2023)

The Monument to Antonio Canova (1757 – 1822) was an Italian Neoclassical sculptor famous for his marble sculptures is buried on the left nave of the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari in Venice. The pyramid-shaped structure with its looming statues was created by five of Canova’s students after the master’s death in 1822. It’s based off a design Canova himself had drafted for the tomb for the Venetian painter, Titian. Only the sculptor’s heart is located within the monument, his right hand at the Accademia di Belle Arti in Venice and the rest of his body is buried in his hometown of Possagno, Italy, just outside of Venice in the Tempio Canoviano, a church that was built based on his designs. (April 21, 2023)

The large Monument to Doge Giovanni Pesaro (September 1, 1589 – September 30, 1659), the 103rd Doge of Venice reigning from his election on April 8, 1658 until his death, is entombed on the left nave of the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari in Venice. (April 21, 2023)

The choir stalls of the central nave inside the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari in Venice were carved in 1468 by Francesco Cozzi and Marco Cozzi of Venice. (April 21, 2023)

Italy Day 5: The Grand Canal of Venice

While most cities have roads to get you from place to place, Venice has its Grand Canal named with gondolas, water taxis, private boats, barges and the vaporetto, water bus, that gets the public from place to place. The Grand Canal snakes through Venice in a large S shape.

I bought the 7-days ACTV water bus pass, which cost me 65 euros, so I could get on and off without having to worry about an individual ticket that would take time figuring out and add up in cost.

Lined on both sides by palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings in the Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance styles, Venice has managed to preserve its authenticity while incorporating modern amenities.

I end my time in Venice today gliding around the Grand Canal on an utterly beautiful day and the Gallerie dell’Accademia.

Goodbye Venice, had a grand time!