Armenia: First Country to Adopt Christianity and Home to Some of the World’s Oldest Churches and Monasteries

It was pretty much a full day of travel, leaving Georgia and crossing the border into Armenia with the village of Sadakhlo, on the Georgia-Armenia border, as our final destination for the day.

We actually had to drive back to and thru the capital of Tiblisi to get to the border crossing. And before getting into the Tiblisi city limits, we made a short stop to pick up our completed pendants, at a scheduled meeting point, from the Tserovani Refugee Settlement and Enamel Workshop of the Ikorta Enamel Jewelry where the residents of the village were displaced by the 2008 conflict between the Russian Federation and the Republic of Georgia over South Ossetia. They were all actually beautiful.

After crossing the border, we met with our new van driver and guide, Anna. We began our Republic of Armenia adventure with lunch at the Hotel Qefilyan in Alaverdi before our visit to the Haghpat Monastery Complex, listed as a World Cultural Heritage Site. The monastery was founded by Queen Khosrovanuysh, wife of the Bagratid king Ashot III, probably around 976.

Armenia was the first country to officially adopt Christianity and is known as home to some of the world’s oldest churches and monasteries that are located in the extremely beautiful natural settings. Gregory the Illuminator (c. 257 – c. 328) is considered the founder and first head of the Armenian Apostolic Church and the person credited for converting Armenia from paganism to Christianity in the early fourth century (traditionally dated to 301), making Armenia the first country to adopt Christianity as its official religion.

From the monastery, we made our way to small resort town of Dilijan where we spent the night at the Tufenkian Old Dilijan Complex, located on historic and charming Sharambeyan Street in Old Dilijan, featuring 19th-century architecture.

Welcome to Armenia!

Our new Armenian guide, Anna, giving us the 411 on Armenia as we make our way to our lunch spot at the Hotel Qefilyan in Alaverdi before our visit to the Haghpat Monastery Complex. (Sept. 19, 2022)

The Hotel Qefilyan in Alaverdi with views of the Debed river gorge where we had lunch before going to the Haghpat Monastery Complex. (Sept. 19, 2022)

The restaurant at the Hotel Qefilyan in Alaverdi where we stopped or a quick lunch and toilet break before visiting the Haghpat Monastery Complex, listed as a World Cultural Heritage Site. (Sept. 19, 2022)

A simple lunch of lentil soup, hummus, bread and wine at the Hotel Qefilyan offers accommodation in Alaverdi with views of the Debed river gorge. (Sept. 19, 2022)

Views of the Debed river gorge where we had lunch at the Hotel Qefilyan in Alaverdi on our way to visit the Haghpat Monastery Complex. (Sept. 19, 2022)

The Haghpat Monastery Complex in Armenia was founded by Queen Khosrovanush (wife of the Armenian King Ashot III the Merciful) in 976 AD. It consists of one narthex, two corridor-sepulchers, a refectory, a scriptorium, the Chapel of Hamazasp, a belfry, several chapel-tombs and cross-stones (khachkars), all surrounded by a towered rampart. (Sept. 19, 2022)

The Haghpat Monastery Complex in Armenia was founded by Queen Khosrovanush (wife of the Armenian King Ashot III the Merciful) in 976 AD. (Sept. 19, 2022)

The entrance foyer or vestibule of the Church of Sourb Nshan inside the Haghpat Monastery Complex in Armenia was founded around 976 AD. (Sept. 19, 2022)

The khachkar or stone cross carved into the walls of the Church of Sourb Nshan at the Haghpat Monastery Complex in Armenia. (Sept. 19, 2022)

The interior nave and altar of the Church of Sourb Nshan inside the Haghpat Monastery Complex in Armenia founded in 976 AD. (Sept. 19, 2022)

The frescos inside the apse of the Church of Sourb Nshan inside the Haghpat Monastery Complex in Armenia was founded around 976 AD. (Sept. 19, 2022)

A close-up of the fresco of Christ Pantocrator inside the apse of the Church of Sourb Nshan inside the Haghpat Monastery Complex in Armenia was founded around 976 AD. (Sept. 19, 2022)

A corridor with the Holy Savior khachkar or stone cross, from around 1273 at the Haghpat Monastery Complex in Armenia. (Sept. 19, 2022)

The Holy Savior khachkar or stone cross, from around 1273 at the Haghpat Monastery Complex in Armenia. (Sept. 19, 2022)

Inside the Scriptorium with holes in the floor for hiding scrolls during times of peril at the Haghpat Monastery Complex. (Sept. 19, 2022)

The oval-shaped gate at the Haghpat Monastery Complex with the khachkars or stone crosses lined up alongside of entrance gate. The khachkars or stone-crosses are characteristic of medieval Christian Armenian carved, memorial stele bearing a cross, and often with additional motifs such as rosettes, interlaces, and botanical motifs. (Sept. 19, 2022)

The khachkars or stone crosses at the Haghpat Monastery Complex are characteristic of medieval Christian Armenian carved, memorial stele bearing a cross, and often with additional motifs such as rosettes, interlaces, and botanical motifs. (Sept. 19, 2022)

The gate at the Haghpat Monastery Complex with the bell tower in the distance. (Sept. 19, 2022)

The bell tower gate at the Haghpat Monastery Complex. (Sept. 19, 2022)

a bas-relief with donors Gurgen and Smbat Bagratuny on the exterior roof of the gate at the Haghpat Monastery Complex. (Sept. 19, 2022)

After our stops and a full day of traveling by van, we arrived at our home base for the night, the Tufenkian Old Dilijan Complex along the central street of Sharambeyan in Old Dilijan, Armenia. The picturesque resort town of Dilijan is often referred to as the ‘Little Switzerland of Armenia’, but in all honesty other than enjoying the surroundings of the hotel and dinner at a local restaurant, plus never having been to Switzerland, I didn’t see it. (Sept. 19, 2022)

My room #6 at the our home base for the night, the Tufenkian Old Dilijan Complex, in Old Dilijan, Armenia. (Sept. 19, 2022)

My bathroom #6 at the our home base for the night, the Tufenkian Old Dilijan Complex, in Old Dilijan, Armenia. (Sept. 19, 2022)

Along the central street of Sharambeyan in Old Dilijan, Armenia. (Sept. 19, 2022)

Beautiful night views of Dilijan, Armenia. (Sept. 19, 2022)

Dinner at the Kchuch Restaurant in Old Dilijan, Armenia, just a few blocks away from our hotel. (Sept. 19, 2022)

My dinner meal of grilled pork on skewers with vegetables and potatoes along with a bowl of Lentil soup at the Kchuch Restaurant in Old Dilijan, Armenia, just a few blocks away from our hotel. (Sept. 19, 2022)

A delicious bowl of lentil soup, part of my dinner at the Kchuch Restaurant in Old Dilijan, Armenia, just a few blocks away from our hotel. (Sept. 19, 2022)

rilled pork on skewers with vegetables and potatoes, my main dinner meal at the Kchuch Restaurant in Old Dilijan, Armenia, just a few blocks away from our hotel. (Sept. 19, 2022)

A really nice group dinner at the Kchuch Restaurant in Old Dilijan with (from right) Judy, Bob, Manya, Ron, me and Patricia. (Sept. 19, 2022)

After breakfast in Dilijan and on our way to our final stop of Yerevan, we drove to the reflective waters of Lake Sevan, nicknamed ‘The Pearl of Armenia.’ The Lake is considered as one of the largest fresh-water high-altitude lakes in the world and is overlooked by the churches of the Sevanavank Monastery founded in 874 AD.

From Lake Sevan, we moved onto the village of Garni to visit the first century Garni Temple, where the Armenian King Tiridates dedicated the pagan temple to the Armenian sun god Mihr.

Our lunch break in Garni was in the cozy gardens of the family-style restaurant of Abelyans House. Along with the delicious home cooked meal, we were treated to a demonstration of making and baking the Armenian lavash, a thin flatbread. Traditionally the dough is rolled out flat and slapped against the hot walls of the tonir, a live-fire underground oven made of clay.

From Garni, we traveled northeast in our van higher up the gorge of the Azat River, to the magnificent Geghard Monastery. This UNESCO World Heritage Site site is partly carved out of a mountain and surrounded by cliffs. According to tradition, it was founded in the 4th century by Gregory the Illuminator (c. 257 – c. 328). He was the founder and first head of the Armenian Apostolic Church and the person credited for converting Armenia from paganism to Christianity in the early fourth century (traditionally dated to 301), making Armenia the first country to adopt Christianity as its official religion.

With Armenia’s capital city of Yerevan as our final destination and unfortunately, the end point for this tour of the three countries of Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia, we proceed on. And, as our wonderful Intrepid Travel leader, Manya, will need to leave us a little earlier than expected but not before hosting and joining us for a farewell grand Armenian dinner at The Club Restaurant in Yerevan.

Join me for a a full and beautiful day from Dilijan to Yerevan.

My selfie with Lake Sevan, the largest body of water in the entire South Caucasus, during a visit to Sevanavank Monastery. It is a freshwater and alpine lake situated at an altitude of more than 6.234 feet (1,900 meters) and is vital for Armenia’s fishing, tourism (especially domestic), agriculture and other industries. Considered ‘The Pearl of Armenia’ and the largest fresh-water high-altitude lake in the world. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The view of Lake Sevan after climbing up the 250 steps to visit the churches at the Sevanavank Monastery. (Sept. 20, 2022)

Views of Lake Sevan after climbing up the 250 steps to visit the churches at the Sevanavank Monastery. (Sept. 20, 2022)

Sevanavank Monastery, is a monastic complex on a peninsula at the northwestern shore of Lake Sevan in the Gegharkunik Province of Armenia, not far from the town of Sevan. The monastery was said to be a major center of calligraphy where hundreds of Armenian manuscripts were copied and illustrated. The two church buildings, Surb Arakelots (left, which was closed & not open to visitors) and the Astvatsatsin (right) which we were able to enter, were constructed around the 9th century from black tuff or volcanic ash, which probably gave the monastery its name Sevanavank – “the Black Monastery”. The complex of buildings were extensively renovated in 1956-1957. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The Church of Surp Arakelots (Church of the Holy Apostles) at the Sevanavank Monastery was closed and not open to visitors. The monastic complex, on a peninsula at the northwestern shore of Lake Sevan in the Gegharkunik Province of Armenia, is not far from the town of Sevan. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The Church of Surp Astvatsatsin (Church of the Holy Mother of God) at the Sevanavank Monastery, overlooking Lake Sevan, was open for visitors. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The Church of Surp Astvatsatsin (Church of the Holy Mother of God) at the Sevanavank Monastery overlooking Lake Sevan with the entryway surrounded by fragments of ruined slabs of khachkars, stone carved crosses. (Sept. 20, 2022)

A close-up of ruined slabs of khachkars, stone carved crosses, at the entrance of the Church of Surp Astvatsatsin (Church of the Holy Mother of God) at the Sevanavank Monastery overlooking Lake Sevan. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The gorgeously carved entrance door at the Church of Surp Astvatsatsin (Church of the Holy Mother of God) at the Sevanavank Monastery overlooking Lake Sevan. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The main altar inside the Church of Surp Astvatsatsin (Church of the Holy Mother of God) at the Sevanavank Monastery overlooking Lake Sevan. (Sept. 20, 2022)

A beautifully detailed and khachkar, stone carved cross, near the main altar of the Church of Surp Astvatsatsin (Church of the Holy Mother of God) at the Sevanavank Monastery overlooking Lake Sevan. (Sept. 20, 2022)

“The Temple of Garni, located in the village of Garni in Kotayk Province of Armenia, was once a pagan temple dedicated to the Armenian sun god Mihr. Built in the middle of the 1st century AD or CE, the Temple survived the destruction of pagan temples following Armenia’s conversion to Christianity in the 4th century AD, and countless invasions and earthquakes until its collapse in 1679 AD. After excavations in the late 19th and early 20th centuries AD, the Temple was reconstructed between 1969-1975. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The Temple of Garni is strategically located on a cliff overlooking a range of the Geghama mountains as well as the Azat River near the Ararat Plain. The Temple is located strategically on a cliff overlooking a range of the Geghama mountains as well as the Azat River near the Ararat Plain. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The Temple of Garni, constructed of grey basalt quarried locally and without the use of mortar, was originally built around 77 AD during the reign of Tiridates I of Armenia who ruled from about 63 to 88 AD. It was possibly built as a pagan temple to the sun god Mihr. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The ruins of the Saint Sion Church and an earlier palace adjacent to the Temple of Garni. The church, built in 659 AD, on the ruins of a place were both destroyed over the centuries due to a series of earthquakes. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The Temple of Garni and the foundation remains of the Saint Sion Church which was built in 659 AD. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The preserved Royal Bathhouse of Garni from the ruined palace next to the Temple of Garni was built with the technique and materials typical of other palace buildings, Although the exact shape of the cover is unknown, nevertheless, the fragments of the ceiling plaster found during the excavations show that it most likely had a vaulted form. (Sept. 20, 2022)

A ramp leading through the The preserved Royal Bathhouse of Garni from the ruined palace next to the Temple of Garni, (Sept. 20, 2022)

The mosaics on the ground of the Royal Bathhouse of Garni from the ruined palace next to the Temple of Garni. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The Roman-style floor heating (“hypocaustum”) shows the remains of little columns made of bricks along the flooring of the remains of a bathhouse, just slightly north of the Temple o Garni possibly dating back to around the 3rd century AD. The heat from an over could circulate underneath the flooring to heat the bath. (Sept. 20, 2022)

We had lunch in one of the gardens at the cozy family-style restaurant of Abelyans House in Garni. (Sept. 20, 2022)

We were treated to a demonstration of making and baking the Armenian lavash, a thin flatbread, at our lunch stop at the Abelyan House in Garni. Traditionally the dough is rolled out flat and slapped against the hot walls of the tonir, a live-fire underground oven made of clay. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The gardens at the Abelyan House in Garni where we ate lunch and were treated to a demonstration of making and baking the Armenian lavash, a thin flatbread. (Sept. 20, 2022)

Enjoying the taste of the freshly made Armenian lavash, a thin flatbread, at our lunch stop at the Abelyan House in Garni where we were treated to a demonstration of making and baking the lavash. (Sept. 20, 2022)

Art work at the Abelyan House in Garni where we ate lunch and were treated to a demonstration of making and baking the Armenian lavash, a thin flatbread. (Sept. 20, 2022)

Enjoying a home made meal for lunch in one of the gardens at the Abelyan House in Garni and where we were treated to a demonstration of making and baking the Armenian lavash, a thin flatbread. (Sept. 20, 2022)

Entering the monastery complex of the Geghard Monastery which begins at the paved road entrance from the parking lot and is lined with women selling sweet bread, sheets of dried fruit (fruit lavash), sweet sujukh (grape molasses covered strings of walnuts) and various souvenirs. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The uphill hike to the medieval monastic complex of the Geghard Monastery in the Kotayk province of Armenia. This UNESCO World Heritage Site was partially carved out of the adjacent mountain, surrounded by towering cliffs of the Azat River gorge. According to tradition, it was founded in the 4th century by Gregory the Illuminator (c. 257 – c. 328), the first head of the Armenian Apostolic Church who was credited for converting Armenia from paganism to Christianity and making the country the first to adopt Christianity as its official religion. (Sept. 20, 2022)

Replicas of khachkars, stone crosses, from the Armenian cemetery in Julfa (known as Jugha in Armenian) that contained around 10,000 funerary monuments and thousands of the uniquely decorated stone crosses characteristic of medieval Christian Armenian art. The cemetery was still standing in the late 1990s, when the government of Azerbaijan began a systematic campaign to destroy the monuments. (Sept. 20, 2022)

A bride and groom coming down the rocky hillside from the entrance into the stone archway of the medieval Geghard Monastery. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The hillside rocky road stone walkway leading to the archway entrance of the medieval Geghard Monastery. (Sept. 20, 2022)

Entering the archway entrance to the medieval Geghard Monastery complex and the Upper Azat Valley in the Kotayk Province of Armenia. The complex, being partially carved out of the adjacent mountain and surrounded by cliffs, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There is no known exact date known of the establishment of Geghard Monastery complex but according to legend, it began in the 4th century when Gregory, the Illuminator, created a small cave chapel that he declared held a sacred spring. It is considered as one of the secret churches in early Armenian history that was eventually burned down by the Arabs in the 9th century.
The Geghard Monastery began only as a small cave chapel, which Gregory declared held a sacred spring in the 4th century. Much of what is seen today at the Monastery comes from the renovations that were done by the Proshyan princes, a Noble Armenian family, from the 12th century.
From there, the complex grew, becoming more ornate and massive. In 1215, the main and most prominent chapel was built. Partially carved out of the rocks on all sides of it, the stone monastery melds beautifully with its surroundings and stands out among the outcroppings above. And, more rebuilding was also done in the 13th and 17th centuries.
Although the main chapel of the complex was built in 1215, it was originally named Ayrivank meaning “the Monastery of the Cave”. The name commonly used for the monastery today, Geghard, or more fully Geghardavank, meaning “the Monastery of the Spear.” The spear name originated when the spear that wounded Jesus at the Crucifixion, was allegedly brought to Armenia by the Apostle Jude, called Thaddeus in Armenia. The spear had been at the monastery for some 500 years but is now at the museum of the Mother See of Holy Etchmiadzin, and taken out on rare occasions for public veneration. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The Geghard Monastery complex, a unique architectural masterpiece mostly carved into a rock with its origins being a 4th century small cave chapel with a sacred spring as discovered by Gregory, the Illuminator. Gregory (c. 257 – c. 328) was the founder and first head of the Armenian Apostolic Church and the person credited for converting Armenia from paganism to Christianity in the early 4th century (traditionally dated to 301), making Armenia the first country to adopt Christianity as its official religion. The main church, Kathoghikè, was built in 1215. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The Kathoghikè, main church of the Geghard Monastery complex, was built in 1215. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The entrance to Kathoghikè, the main cave church built in 1215 at the Geghard Monastery complex. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The domed gavit or hall entrance to the Kathoghikè, the main cave church at the Geghard Monastery complex, which was built in 1215. The soaring stone walls and columns have a variety of cross carvings. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The hole in the ceiling of the gavit or hall of the Kathoghikè, the main cave church, at the Geghard Monastery complex, is surrounded with gorgeously hand carved stalactites and was built in 1215. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The entrance to the main cave church of Kathoghikè at the Geghard Monastery complex built in 1215. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The apse to the main cave church of Kathoghikè at the Geghard Monastery complex built in 1215. (Sept. 20, 2022)

Also connected to the gavit or hall of the main cave church of Kathoghikè at the Geghard Monastery complex is this rock hewn zhamatun chamber with the tombs and inscriptions of the Proshyan family. The zhamatun is a roughly square chamber cut into the rock, with deeply cut reliefs on the walls. In the center, above two archways is a rather stunning primitive high relief of two lions with chains while an eagle with half-spread wings clutches a lamb in its claws. This could likely be the coat of arms for the princes of the Proshyan family. And, further inside the zhamatun chamber is the entrance to the small rock-cut church of the Avazan Chapel. (Sept. 20, 2022)

A close-up of the two lions with chains around their necks and linked to an eagle with a lamb in its claws in rock hewn zhamatun chamber at the Geghard Monastery. Also notice the crosses carved into the thick columns. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The entrance to the rock-cut Avazan cave chapel deep into the rock hewn zhamatun chamber at the Geghard Monastery complex. (Sept. 20, 2022)

The Avazan cave church inside rock hewn zhamatun chamber with the tombs and inscriptions of the Proshyan family at the Geghard Monastery complex. The cave church was built around 1230 to 1250. (Sept. 20, 2022)

Two of a number of khatchkars or Armenian cross-stones on the exterior of the Kathoghikè, the main rock church of the Geghard Monastery complex. The most common location for early khachkars was in a graveyard. However, Armenian gravestones take many other forms, and only a minority are khachkars, characteristic of medieval Christian Armenian art. (Sept 20, 2022)

We enjoyed our group farewell dinner tonight. We still have one more day in Yerevan before the tour ends, but our dear tour leader, Manya, has to leave earlier than expected. And, what a great farewell dinner it was, delicious Armenian gourmet food at The Club Restaurant in Yerevan. I’m no foodie but I’ve truly enjoyed the food during this tour and this meal was no exemption. (Sept. 20, 2022)

A morning city walking tour with a local guide was exactly what was needed to see and appreciate Armenia’s capital city of Yerevan. Established in 782 BC, Yerevan is considered to be one of the oldest cities in the world yet it’s also quite modern. It was nice to see some of its treasures.

An afternoon treat was a visit to the eclectic Aguletsi House Museum & Art Cafe on Muratsan Street in Yerevan.

I honestly did not know what to expect from this thriving city but spending a day here, my last full day in Yerevan was also the best way to spend my last full day in Armenia before heading back home.

Let’s check out a few sites in Yerevan.