Georgia: At the Crossroads of Europe & Asia & Filled with Magnificent Churches

Crossing a border from one country to another is quite fascinating to me especially when countries are so vigilant about protecting their borders. I obviously don’t understand about this because I live in a country with borderless states that I can travel through and to without documentation. And, only two countries border the United States…Canada to the north and Mexico to the south.

We crossed the border from Azerbaijan into Georgia. There were no crowds because the Azerbaijani land borders are closed to locals but not for foreigners, like our group. Instead, the borders are open by advance arrangements and special permission from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Azerbaijan to cross by foot, which we did. However, Azerbaijani air and sea borders are open but I was required to purchase a visa to get into Azerbaijan. No visa is required to enter Georgia.

Armenia is the 3rd country on this trip however the Armenia-Azerbaijan border is closed and the area is heavily militarised. So the only way to enter Armenia is through Georgia but we will spend a little more than a week traveling through Georgia starting in the town of Lagodeckhi at the Azerbaijan–Georgia border where we met our new van driver for the Georgia portion of our trip.

From the Georgia border, with our awaiting van, we ventured to the Kakheti region known for its winemaking. We enjoyed a late home-cooked meal at the Begaso Family Winery. Who does not love drinking a lot of wine with a good meal and touring a winery? I must admit, I love visiting wineries during my travels. From the winery, we visited the Gremi Fortress, a 16th-century the royal citadel and the Church of the Archangels in Kakheti, Georgia. Then, we spent the night at the Savaneti Hotel with its beautiful views.

A little tidbit: The Georgia of the United States of America was named after King George II of England who granted the state its charter in 1732. Whereas the Republic of Georgia, at the intersection of Eastern Europe and Western Asia, is the name English speaking people gave to the country. In Georgia’s native language, the country is called Sakartvelo.

For now, it’s welcome to the Republic of Georgia. It was part of the Soviet Union between 1921 and 1991, but now it is an independent republic full of history, beauty and good food.

In the small village of Sabue near Georgia’s Gremi Fortress is the Begaso Family Winery surrounded by the Caucasus Mountains. That’s where we had our delicious home made lunch, did a wine tasting and also drank a lot of delicious wine. Erekle Bezhitashvili, one of the winemakers and owners of Begaso, spoke to us about the traditions of Georgian wines at the dining room table of his winery. (Sept. 12, 2022)

The table was set for our lunch at the Begaso Family Winery in the small village of Sabue, Georgia. (Sept. 12, 2022)

Potatoes, pork and a cucumber salad were just some of the goodies we had for our lunch spread at the Begaso Family Winery in the small village of Sabue, Georgia. (Sept. 12, 2022)

Let the wine tasting…and the wine drinking…begin at the Begaso Family Winery in the small village of Sabue, Georgia. (Sept. 12, 2022)

Along with good food, we also sampled some of the Begaso Family Winery wine at their winery in the small village of Sabue, Georgia. (Sept. 12, 2022)

The in-ground wine vats at the Begaso Family Winery in the small village of Sabue, Georgia. (Sept. 12, 2022)

The vineyards around the Begaso Family Winery in the small village of Sabue, Georgia, with gorgeous Caucasus Mountain views. (Sept. 12, 2022)

The clay pots at the Begaso Family Winery in the small village of Sabue, Georgia. (Sept. 12, 2022)

Gremi Architectural Complex is a 16th-century monument located on a hill consisting of the royal citadel and the Church of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel in Kakheti, Georgia. (Sept. 12, 2022)

The stone gate entrance, after walking up the hill, to the 16th-century Gremi Architectural Complex monument of the royal citadel and the Church of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel in Kakheti, Georgia. (Sept. 12, 2022)

The Church of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel was constructed at the behest of King Levan of Kakheti (r. 1520–1574) in 1565 and the interior frescoed by 1577. (Sept. 12, 2022)

The interior of the Church of the Archangels, constructed at the behest of King Levan of Kakheti (r. 1520–1574) in 1565 is a cruciform domed church built chiefly of stone. And the fresco was completed by 1577. (Sept. 12, 2022)

A side view of the Gremi Architectural Complex monument of the royal citadel (left) and the Church of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel (right) in Kakheti, Georgia. (Sept. 12, 2022)

Views from the hillside of the Gremi Architectural Complex monument of the royal citadel and the Church of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel in Kakheti, Georgia. (Sept. 12, 2022)

The exterior of the Savaneti Hotel, where we spent our first night in Georgia, may not be impressive but the views are most definitely impressive. (Sept. 12, 2022)

My room at the Savaneti Hotel with a balcony to enjoy the gorgeous Caucasus Mountain views. (Sept. 12, 2022)

My very practical bathroom in my room at the Savaneti Hotel for our first night in the Republic of Georgia. (Sept. 12, 2022)

My view of the Caucasus Mountains from my balcony room at the Savaneti Hotel for our first night in the Republic of Georgia. (Sept. 12, 2022)

I honestly don’t remember being as tired as I was last night. Before getting to the hotel we stopped at a little 7-11 type store where I bought some bags of nuts and that ended up being my dinner. I was less concerned about food and more concerned about sleep.

Since all I did was sleep, I was well rested and ready to take on the day. And, that meant packing up and moving on to Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital with of course some stops in between.

We made a morning stop to the Telavi Market where a host of items from fresh vegetables to fresh meats were available including a host of other items from nuts to household goods. From the market we made our way to our main stop of the day, the 18th century town of Sighnaghi before ending our day in Tiblisi.

A morning stopover at the daily market in Telavi, Georgia, began our day before heading to the 18th century hill top town of Sighnaghi. The building may have been built during the era of the Soviet Union occupation, but a market has existed in this location for centuries. (Sept. 13, 2022)

A variety of mushrooms at the Telavi Market in Georgia. (Sept. 13, 2022)

A variety of vegetables and other items were available at the Telavi, Georgia, market. (Sept. 13, 2022)

Cheese at the Telavi, Georgia, market. (Sept. 13, 2022)

A close-up of the colorful vegetables at the Telavi Market in Georgia. (Sept. 13, 2022)

Pickled items at the Telavi Market in Georgia.(Sept. 13, 2022)

A variety of nuts and dried fruits were also available at the Telavi Market in Georgia with the traditional Georgian cuisine of Churchkhela, hanging from the roof. It’s candle-shaped candy made from hazel nuts, walnuts and almonds then dipped into thickened juices, more often grape juice. (Sept. 13, 2022)

More Churchkhela, hanging from the roof at the Telavi Market in Georgia. The candle-shaped candy is made from hazel nuts, walnuts and almonds then dipped into thickened juices, more often grape juice. (Sept. 13, 2022)

There was even a nuts and bolts hardware store at the Telavi Market in Georgia. (Sept. 13, 2022)

And, more hand made brooms at the Telavi Market in Georgia. (Sept. 13, 2022)

Gorgasali Street of the hilly town of Sighnaghi, Georgia, leads down to the Old Town and the views of the Alazani Valley and the Walls of Sighnaghi. (Sept. 13, 2022)

Overlooking the terracotta roofs of the picturesque 18th-century hill town of Sighnaghi which sits atop a bluff overlooking the Alazani Valley and Great Caucasus Mountains. (Sept. 13, 2022)

Overlooking the terracotta roofs of the picturesque 18th-century hill town of Sighnaghi with views of the Alazani Valley and Great Caucasus Mountains. (Sept. 13, 2022)

Walking along the cobblestone walkway towards the stone gate of the Walls of Sighnaghi, Georgia. (Sept. 13, 2022)

Entrance stone towers leading to the 18th century Walls of the hill town of Sighnaghi, Georgia, through its Old Town. (Sept. 13, 2022)

The shops along the cobblestone street from inside the stoned towers heading to the entrance to the Walls of the hill town of Sighnaghi, Georgia. (Sept. 13, 2022)

Wool socks and shoes being sold from a shop inside the stoned towers heading to the entrance to the Walls of the hill town of Sighnaghi, Georgia. (Sept. 13, 2022)

Rugs for sale along the cobblestone street inside the stoned towers heading to the entrance to the Walls of the hill town of Sighnaghi, Georgia. (Sept. 13, 2022)

The Church of St. George along the cobblestone street inside the stoned towers heading to the entrance to the Walls of the hill town of Sighnaghi, Georgia. The church dates back to the 19th century. (Sept. 13, 2022)

The bell tower of the Church of St. George along the cobblestone street inside the stoned towers heading to the entrance to the Walls of the hill town of Sighnaghi, Georgia. The church dates back to the 19th century. (Sept. 13, 2022)

The entrance to the Walls of Sighnaghi was up this staircase towards a tower to walk along a portion of the Walls. (Sept. 13, 2022)

Me beginning my walk along the stone Walls of the hill town of Sighnaghi, Georgia. Only a small portion of the walls are open to walk on. (Sept. 13, 2022)

Views of the Alazani Valley and Great Caucasus Mountains from my walk along the stone Walls of the hill town of Sighnaghi, Georgia. Only a small portion of the walls are open to walk on. (Sept. 13, 2022)

Views of the Alazani Valley and Great Caucasus mountains from my walk along the stone Walls of Sighnaghi, Georgia, built around the 1770s. In the distance are more remnants of Wall of Sighnaghi. (Sept. 13, 2022)

Me walking along the stone Walls of Sighnaghi, Georgia., built around the 1770s. (Sept. 13, 2022)

In the center of Sighnaghi is a Soviet-era memorial with names of Georgian soldiers who lost their lives in the Great Patriotic War (a term used in Russia and some former republics of the Soviet Union to describe the Eastern Front of World War II). Georgia lost a large part of its population when it fought with Russia against the Germans in WWII. (Sept. 13, 2022)

A World War II memorial in the center of Sighnaghi honoring the Georgian soldiers who lost their lives fighting with Russia against Nazi Germany during the war. (Sept. 13, 2022)

City Hall in Sighnaghi, Georgia. (Sept. 13, 2022)

The hilly town of Sighnaghi, Georgia. (Sept. 13, 2022)

Our local Sighnaghi guide, David, explaining the significance of the statued man holding a briefcase while riding a donkey. The man is a doctor from the 1800s who made house calls to the villagers in the area. (Sept. 13, 2022)

A woman selling water, pomegranate juice, grapes and the local sweets called Churchkhela from the front door of her home in the hilly town of Sighnaghi, Georgia. Churchkhela, a traditional Georgian cuisine is a candle-shaped candy made from hazel nuts, walnuts and almonds then dipped into thickened juices, more often grape juice.(Sept. 13, 2022)

Another woman selling fresh pomegranate and other juices from her small shop along the street in the hilly town of Sighnaghi, Georgia. (Sept. 13, 2022)

We ended our time in the hill town of Sighnaghi with a late group lunch at the Terrace Signagi and its beautiful views. From left: Bob, Judy, me, Andreas, Ron, Patricia and our Intrepid leader, Manya. (Sept. 13, 2022)

Views of the hill town of Sighnaghi, Georgia, from the Terrace Signagi Restaurant where our group had lunch. (Sept. 13, 2022)

We spent two nights in Georgia’s capital city of Tbilisi. Its cobblestoned old town reflects a long, complicated history, with periods under Persian and Russian rule. Its diverse architecture encompasses Eastern Orthodox churches, ornate art nouveau buildings and Soviet Modernist structures. Looming over it all are the Narikala, a reconstructed 4th-century fortress; Kartlis Deda, an iconic statue of the “Mother of Georgia,” and the Sulphur bath domes dating from the late 17th century.

It bares repeating that Georgia, was part of the Soviet Union between 1921 and 1991, but is now an independent republic.

The weather on this tour starting in Azerbaijan, has been mostly sunny. It rained in the morning for a portion of our walking tour in Tbilisi but nothing heavy or even too long. The city really requires more time than a mere two days to explore. But here are my Tbilisi highlights.

My selfie on the Bridge of Peace, a bow-shaped pedestrian bridge of steel and glass over the Kura River in the Republic of Georgia’s capital city of Tbilisi. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The Bridge of Peace is a bow-shaped pedestrian bridge of steel and glass over the Kura River in the Republic of Georgia’s capital city of Tbilisi. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Another view of the Bridge of Peace, a bow-shaped pedestrian bridge of steel and glass over the Kura River in the Republic of Georgia’s capital city of Tbilisi. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Views of the Kura River in the Republic of Georgia’s capital city of Tbilisi. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Walking into the the heart of Tbilisi’s historic Old Town. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The leaning clock tower of the Gabriadze Theater stands in the heart of Tbilisi’s historic Old Town. This unusual yet beautiful clock tower and building is actually a marionette theater. It was designed in 2010 by Rezo Gabriadze a Georgian theater and film director, playwright, writer, painter and sculptor. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The Gabriadze Theater in Tbilisi’s historic Old Town. (Sept. 14, 2022)

An angel comes out above the clock daily at 1:00 pm on the clock tower of the Gabriadze Theater in Tbilisi’s historic Old Town. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The decorated tile on the exterior of the clock tower of the Gabriadze Theater in Tbilisi’s historic Old Town was designed by Reno Gabriadze, who designed the theater. (Sept. 14, 2022)

On the hill with a glass dome and the Georgian flag waving in the air is the Palace of the President of Georgia in Tbilisi. It’s called a palace but it’s the presidential administration building that formerly belong to the former Imperial gendarmeri.
The gendarmeries were the uniformed security police of the Imperial Russian Army during the 19th and early 20th centuries. Their responsibilities included the execution of court orders, the pursuit of fugitives, and riot control.
Construction began on the administration building in 2004 and was completed in 2009. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The Anchiskhati Basilica of St. Mary is the oldest surviving church in Tbilisi, Georgia. It belongs to the Georgian Orthodox Church and dates from the 6th century. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The arch and staircase entryway to the Anchiskhati Basilica of St. Mary is the oldest surviving church in Tbilisi, Georgia. It belongs to the Georgian Orthodox Church and dates from the 6th century. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Inside of the Anchiskhati Basilica of St. Mary is the oldest surviving church in Tbilisi, Georgia. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Walking through the streets of Old Town Tbilisi, Georgia. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The Tbilisi History Museum is located in a renovated and historic Caravanserai, a roadside inn which supported the flow of commerce, where travelers could rest and recover from the day’s journey. It represents the city’s historic role as a Silk Road trading outpost. (Sept. 14, 2022)

I don’t normally take photos of dogs on the streets, but there are a number of homeless dogs on the streets and not just here in Tbilisi. The dogs are tagged by the government to indicate they have been sterilized but they are left to fend for themselves for food, depending on locals and others to feed them. I’m not use to seeing dogs and cats too, just roaming the streets. (Sept. 14, 2022)

He may not look like much, but this dude is the statue of a Tamada, a Toastmaster, in the Old Town of Tbilisi, who is at the very heart of Georgian culture and ritual. And, as a toastmaster, he represents a Georgian tradition that makes drinking, with a raised kantsi (a ram or goat horn) and feasting combined with a Georgian toast, is an almost sacred act. After toasting with a khantsi, you must drink the vessel’s entire contents before setting it down or risk a spill. Women can be toastmasters too but evidently, it is rare. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Entrance to the Meidan Bazaar, an underground tunnel-shop for all things Georgian, in Tbilisi. According to history, this particular place has always been a commercial square, although under different names – Shaitan Bazaar, Tatris Moedani, Tsikhis Moedani. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Inside the Meidan Bazaar, an underground tunnel-shop for all things Georgian, in Tbilisi. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Inside the Meidan Bazaar, an underground tunnel-shop for all things Georgian, in Tbilisi. These white sculptures may look like cauliflower, garlic cloves or some kind of a hot pocket, but they represent a traditional Georgian cuisine called Khinkali, a beautifully twisted knob of dough, typically stuffed with meat and spices, then served boiled or steamed. It’s also called a Georgian Dumpling. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The stately equestrian statue is the Monument of King Vakhtang Gorgasali in the courtyard of the Metekhi Cathedral adjacent to the edge of a cliff in Tbilisi. King Vakhtang was Tiblisi’s founder. He’s a popular Georgian figure and has been canonized by the Georgian Orthodox Church as The Holy and Right-Believing King Vakhtang. The Metekhi Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary is one of the oldest churches built in Tbilisi. Researchers confirm that the temple was built in the 6th century. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Views of Tiblisi and the Kura River in the Republic of Georgia. The Kura River, or Mtkvari in the local dialect, is a major and important river of Georgia. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The Tbilisi Cable Car, which we rode up to the see the Mother of Georgia Monument, opened in 2012 and connects Rike Park on the left bank of the Kura River with Narikala Fortress. We rode up and then walked down. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Views of Tbilisi from the cable car ride. (Sept. 14, 2022)

She’s called Kartlis Deda in the Georgian language and translated to English, she’s the Mother of Georgia. The 65 foot (20 meters) aluminum figure of a woman in Georgian national dress was erected on the top of Sololaki hill in 1958, the year Tbilisi celebrated its 1500th anniversary.
Although it’s difficult to get a front facing close view of the Mother of Georgia sculpture, she symbolizes the Georgian national character: in her left hand she holds a bowl of wine to greet those who come as friends, and in her right hand is a sword for those who come as enemies. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Me getting in a selfie standing right below the Mother of Georgia statue on the Sololaki hillside in Tbilisi. There’s a small viewing point area to see both Tbilisi and this view of the monument. (Sept. 14, 2022)

A behind the view of Kartlis Deda in the Georgian language and translated in English, she’s the Mother of Georgia. The 65 foot (20 meters) aluminum figure of a woman in Georgian national dress was erected on the top of Sololaki hill in 1958, the year Tbilisi celebrated its 1500th anniversary. In her left hand she holds a bowl of wine to greet those who come as friends, and in her right hand is a sword for those who come as enemies. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Manya, our truly wonderful Intrepid leader, and me walking down from the Mother of Georgia Monument to the Tbilisi Old Town area of the brick domed shaped Sulphur Bath Houses in the ancient district of Abanotubani (bath). (Sept. 14, 2022)

Walking down from the Mother of Georgia Monument to the Tbilisi Old Town area of the brick domed shaped Sulphur Bath Houses in the ancient district of Abanotubani (bath). (Sept. 14, 2022)

Views of Tbilisi and the Tbilisi Cable Car as we walk down from the Mother of Georgia Monument on top of Sololaki hill back into the Old Town. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Views of Tbilisi as we walk down from the Mother of Georgia Monument on top of Sololaki hill back into the Old Town. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Passing the Narikala Fortress, to the right, down from the Mother of Georgia Monument on top of Sololaki hill back into the Old Town. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Views of the brick domed shaped Sulphur Bath Houses in the ancient district of Abanotubani (bath) in Tbilisi’s Old Town. The baths are fed by natural hydrogen sulphide water from underground springs, and are said to have a curative effect. Built at different times, from around the 17th to the 19th centuries, the bath houses were repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The ancient Narikala Fortress overlooking Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, and the Mtkvari (Kura) River. Most of the fortress dates from the 16th and 17th centuries. In 1827, parts of the fortress were damaged by an earthquake, and were subsequently demolished. (Sept. 14, 2022)

More views of the ancient Narikala Fortress overlooking Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, and the Mtkvari (Kura) River. The fortress consists of two walled sections on a steep hill between the sulfur baths and the botanical gardens of Tbilisi. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Decorative balconies in Old Town Tbilisi. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The exterior of the Orbeliani Bath House is decorated in an Islamic-Andalusian style with its tiled mosque-like facade, makes it one of the most unique and beautiful buildings in the Abanotubani (bath) district in Old Town Tbilisi. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The area around the bath houses in Old Town Tbilisi. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The ancient Abanotubani (bath) district in Old Town Tbilisi. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The ancient Abanotubani (bath) district in Old Town Tbilisi with its bricked Sulphur bath domes that date from the late 17th century. Because of Tbilisi’s position on the Old Silk Road, bathing became a popular activity not only with locals but with people passing through the city on their journey between Asia and Europe. It is believed that in the 13th century, there were more than 60 bathhouses in use and today, there are only around seven. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The ancient Abanotubani (bath) district in Old Town Tbilisi with its bricked Sulphur bath domes that date from the late 17th century. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The Zodiaqo Restaurant in Tbilisi where several of us had the specialty of the house, Khinkali, a very popular dumpling in Georgian cuisine. (Sept. 14, 2022)

A piece of art on the exterior of the Zodiaqo Restaurant in Tbilisi where several of us had the specialty of the house, Khinkali, a very popular dumpling in Georgian cuisine and also wine. Georgia is generally considered the ‘cradle of wine’, as archaeologists have traced the world’s first known wine creation back to the people of the South Caucasus from around 6,000 BC. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Khinkali, a very popular dumpling in Georgian cuisine are beautifully twisted knobs of dough, typically stuffed with meat and spices, then served boiled or steamed. The meat was definitely tasty and seasoned but the dumpling dough was just a bit tasteless for me. And the two I had at the Zodiaqo Restaurant in Tbilisi were more than enough. (Sept. 14, 2022)

The Tree of Life sculpture in Rike Park in Tbilisi. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Leonidze Park with a colorful mosaic pond in Tbilisi. (Sept. 14, 2022)

Our centrally located hotel in Tblisi, the Museum Hotel. (Sept. 13, 2022)

My room at the Museum Hotel in Tblisi. (Sept. 13, 2022)

My huge bathroom at the Hotel Museum in Tbilisi. (Sept. 13, 2022)

The Bank of Georgia headquarters in Tbilisi was finished in 1975 for the Ministry of Highway Construction of the Georgian Soviet Socialist Republic and finished in 1975 and is considered a late modernism Soviet era architecture which is the period from 1955 until the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991. (Sept. 15, 2022)

It was time to leave Tiblisi, the capital of Georgia, and move on to more of this country’s wonders starting with Georgia’s ancient capital of Mtskheta. As the birthplace of Christianity in about 327 and religious center of Georgia, Mtskheta was declared as the “Holy City” by the Georgian Orthodox Church in 2014.

We began our ancient visit of Mtskheta with the 6th-century Jvari Monastery where legend states that in the early 4th century, Saint Nino, a female Christian evangelist erected a large wooden or vine cross on the site of a pagan temple. She is also credited with converting King Mirian III of Iberia to Christianity.

From the impressive Jvari Monastery, we ventured to the utterly and impressive Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, where the “Robe of Christ” is the main Orthodox Christian Cathedral in Georgia and is said to be buried along with being the burial place of Georgian Kings. Built in 1010-1029, the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, like the Jvari Monatery, are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and is simply spectacular.

Afterwards, we visited the Tserovani Refugee Settlement and Enamel Workshop of the Ikorta Enamel Jewelry where the residents of the village were displaced by the 2008 conflict between the Russian Federation and the Republic of Georgia over South Ossetia. And the Enamel Workshop is a social enterprise offering training and employment to displaced you and women at the settlement. Along with listening to the young women who shared their families experiences about having to flee their homes, these same young women refugees and jewelry designers helped our group design our own piece of jewelry.

From there, we traveled in our private van to the south-western part of Georgia for a two-night stay in the spa town of Borjomi, known for its naturally fizzy mineral water. We stayed at the Golden Tulip Hotel, the former residence of the Iranian consul with 130 years of history.

The 6th century Jvari Monastery stands atop the Jvari Mount mountaintop at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, overlooking the ancient town of Mtskheta. The monetary, along with other historic structures of Mtskheta, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Considered as one of the holiest of holy places, the monastery stands in the area where St. Nino, a female Christian evangelist, erected a wooden cross on a pagan site in the 4th century. Between the years 585 and 604 Stepanoz I, the duke of Kartli, constructed the church over the cross. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The exterior entrance to the 6th century Jvari Monastery atop the Jvari Mount mountaintop at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, overlooking the ancient town of Mtskheta. Above the southern doorway entrance is the bas-relief of the Ascension of the Cross, bas-relief. (Sept. 15, 2022)

Inside the 6th century Jvari Monastery at the ancient town of Mtskheta with its icons and altars. According to local history, in the early 4th century a wooden cross was erected over a pagan sanctuary on a rocky mountaintop overlooking Mtskehta, the former capital of the Georgian Kingdom of Kartli-Iberia. The construction of the cross symbolized the fall of paganism and rise of Christianity in Georgia. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The dome and squinches or arches inside the arches with a side view of the cross inside the 6th century Jvari Monastery at the ancient town of Mtskheta. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The icon of Saint Nino (also known as Nina), inside the Jvari Monastery in the ancient town of Mtskheta, holding her grapevine cross and scroll. This woman evangelist is said to be the primary instrument for bringing Christianity, in the 300s, to the country of Georgia.
Born in Cappadocia in the late 3rd century, St. Nina (or Nino, the Georgian form) came to settle in Mtskheta where she lived in a hut near the royal gardener and his wife, Anastasia. There Nino gained a reputation for her holiness both because of her daily piety and her miraculous healings. She is called Equal-to-the Apostles because she preached the gospel in Georgia. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The icon of Saint George the Dragon Slayer inside the Jvari Monastery in Mtskheta.
According to legend, St George was a Roman soldier who was born in the 3rd century and was condemned to death by the Roman Emperor Diocletian for refusing to give up his Christian faith. Over the following centuries, St George became a hero figure, symbolizing courage and strength. (Sept. 15, 2022)

This painting inside the Jvari Monastery in the ancient town of Mtskheta depicts the magical floating Life-giving Pillar from a Cypress tree that once stood on the site of the current Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, which we also visited in Mtskheta. Buried at the stump of the tree is St. Sidonia who embraces and is covered by the robe of Jesus, the “Robe of the Lord.” (Sept. 15, 2022)

An icon of King Mirian III of Iberia or Kartli or Georgia (left) who reigned from about 306–337) and his second wife, Nana, the Queen consort, on a wall inside the Jvari Monastery in Mtskheta.
For Queen Nana’s role in the conversion of Georgians to Christianity legend states that like her husband, she had been a staunch pagan and despised Christian preaching until she was miraculously cured of a terrible disease by St. Nino, a female Christian evangelist. The Queen, like St. Nino, is regarded by the Georgian Orthodox Church as a saint and is canonized as Saint Equal to the Apostles.
However, it took the King an encounter of his own in order to make the conversion to Christianity. A legend has it that when King Mirian, staunchly pagan, was hunting in the woods near his capital of Mtskheta, darkness fell upon the land and the king was totally blinded. The light did not resume until the King prayed to “Nino’s God” for aid. Upon his return home, he requested an audience with Nino and converted to Christianity soon after. (Sept. 15, 2022)

Erosion is playing its part to deteriorate the exterior of the Jvari Monastery in Mtskheta with its stone blocks and its exceptional exterior facade bas-relief sculptures being degraded by wind erosion and acidic rain. (Sept. 15, 2022)

Above the southern entrance of the Jvari Monastery in Mtskheta are two bas-reliefs, one directly above the entryway and another one above it. The bas-relief directly above the entryway door is the Ascension of the Cross and the one bore it depicts the 7th century Georgian prince Adarnase I praying before Jesus Christ. Adarnase was a presiding prince of Iberia (Kartli, eastern Georgia) from about 627 to 637/642. (Sept. 15, 2022)

This bas-relief on the exterior of the Jvari Monastery in Mtskheta is said to be patrons being blessed. (Sept. 15, 2022)

This bas-relief on the exterior Eastern facade of the Jvari Monastery in Mtskheta is said to be that of Stepanoz I or Stephen I, a presiding prince of Iberia (Kartli, central and eastern Georgia) from c. 590 to 627, was killed during the battle with the invading Byzantine army.
Stepanoz I made Tbilisi his capital and defended it with a Georgian-Iranian force when the Byzantine emperor Heraclius attacked Iberia in 626 (the Byzantine–Sassanid War of 602–628). Stepanoz was taken captive in the fighting and Heraclius had him flayed alive. His office was given to Adarnase I, his relative. (Sept. 15, 2022)

More of the exterior facade of the Jvari Monastery in the ancient town of Mtskheta that many Georgians consider this church to be the holiest of holies. (Sept. 15, 2022)

A bas-relief on the exterior of the Jvari Monastery in Mtskheta. (Sept. 15, 2022)

Views from the rocky mountaintop of the Jvari Monastery overlooking the ancient town of Mtskheta at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta.

Street leading to the 11th century Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta, Georgia. (Sept. 15, 2022)

A view of the exterior defensive walls built of stone and brick during the reign of King Erekle II (Heraclius) in 1787 enclosing the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta. (Sept. 15, 2022)

This gorgeous UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the historic town of Mtskheta, is an Orthodox Christian cathedral that was completed between 1010 and 1029. A previous church from the early 4th century, the site chosen by Saint Nino, stood here but had been damaged through wars and an earthquake. St. Nino was the female evangelist who began preaching Christianity in Georgia in the 4th century.
Also preserved in the cathedral is said to be the robe of Jesus Christ.
According to Georgian tradition, a Georgian Jew from Mtskheta named Elioz was in Jerusalem when Jesus was crucified. Elias bought Jesus’ robe from a Roman soldier at Golgotha and brought it back to Georgia. Upon his return he was met by his sister Sidonia who grasped the robe and overcome by emotions, died immediately. The robe could not be removed from her grasp, so she was buried with it inside the cathedral.
The cathedral is the burial place of the Georgian kings, including Vakhtang Gorgasali, Erekle II, David VI, George VIII, Luarsab I, and George XII, the last Georgian king. (Sept. 15, 2022)

I was absolutely taken aback by the magnificence of the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the historic town of Mtskheta to look up and see the amazing 11th century fresco of Jesus Christ and the enormity of the interior. The cathedral was completed between 1010 and 1029. Although many of the priceless frescoes were lost when the Russian Imperial authorities whitewashed them, others were later uncovered. (Sept. 15, 2022)

Inside the stunning 11th century Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta, Georgia. (Sept. 15, 2022)

Inside the the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The 11th century fresco of Jesus Christ inside the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta. (Sept. 15, 2022)

This 17th century square pillar, inside the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral is a monument where St. Sidonia, clutching the Robe of Jesus Christ, is said to be buried.
According to Georgian tradition, a Georgian Jew from Mtskheta named Elioz was in Jerusalem when Jesus was crucified. Elias bought Jesus’ robe from a Roman soldier at Golgotha and brought it back to Georgia. Upon his return he was met by his sister Sidonia who grasped the robe and overcome by emotions, died immediately. The robe could not be removed from her grasp, so she was buried with it. After some time, a cypress tree grew over her tomb and three centuries later, when Georgia became Christian, it was decided to build this, the first church in the country from the cypress trees over the tomb. This pillar monument above, Sidonia, now St. Sidonia’s grave is called the Holy Life Giving Pillar. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The Holy Life Giving Pillar under which St. Sidonia was buried while clutching the robe of Jesus Christ inside the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta. (Sept. 15, 2022)

A close-up of the Holy Life Giving Pillar where Sidonia in the 4th century, who upon touching the Robe of Jesus Christ, immediately died from the emotions engendered by the holy object. A tree had grown over her tomb and in the 11th century this church, the the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta, was built. (Sept. 15, 2022)

Inside the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta. The cathedral interior walls were once fully adorned with medieval frescoes, but many of them did not survive. (Sept. 15, 2022)

Inside the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta. (Sept. 15, 2022)

Inside the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta in view of the restored fresco “Beast of Apocalypse” with Zodiac figures. The cathedral interior walls were once fully adorned with medieval frescoes, but many of them did not survive. In the scene Jesus is depicted as judge and ruler of the universe. All around are depicted scenes from the Book of Psalms by David. In the lower register is the worship of Jesus through dance. (Sept. 15, 2022)

Inside the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta in view of the restored fresco “Beast of Apocalypse” with Zodiac figures. (Sept. 15, 2022)

Close up of restored fresco “Beast of Apocalypse” with Zodiac figures inside Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta. (Sept. 15, 2022)

This small stone church was built into the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta. It is a symbolic copy of the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem and dates back to around the 14th century. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The tomb of Vakhtans I Gorgasalis with his sword-holding image carved on a raised flagstone inside the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta. He was a king of Iberia, natively known as Kartli (eastern Georgia) from around the mid-400s to the early 500s. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The tomb of King Heraclius II or King Erekle II inside the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta. He was a Georgian monarch who reigned as the king of Kakheti from 1744 to 1798. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The altar and wall of icons and religious paintings inside the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The well, a small stone baptismal font, inside the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta is where King Mirian III and Queen Nana were said to be christened as Catholics. (Sept. 15, 2022)

A close-up of the well, a small stone baptismal font, inside the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta is where King Mirian III and Queen Nana were said to be christened as Catholics. (Sept. 15, 2022)

A view of the interior defensive walls built of stone and brick during the reign of King Erekle II (Heraclius) in 1787 enclosing the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the ancient town of Mtskheta. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The Tserovani Refugee Settlement and Enamel Workshop of the Ikorta Enamel Jewelry

The Enamel Workshop at the Tserovani Refugee Settlement, just outside the capital city of Tiblisi, is both part of a refugee settlement for the thousands of people displaced by the Georgian-Russian war in 2008 and the home of the Enamel Workshop where beautiful enamel cloisonné, under the name of Ikorta Enamel Jewelry, is made and taught to tourists. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The cloisonné pendant I made at the Enamel Workshop of the Ikorta Enamel Jewelry at the Tserovani Refugee Settlement, just outside the capital city of Tiblisi. The cloisonné enamel technique is created by affixing silver or gold thin wires to a metal object to create a design. In this case, that part was done for us and all we had to do was fill in the piece with the color enamel powder. Examples of cloisonne enamel can be found in Georgia from the 2nd to the 3rd century. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The different pieces made by members of my tour group at the Enamel Workshop of the Ikorta Enamel Jewelry at the Tserovani Refugee Settlement, just outside the capital city of Tiblisi.
“The process of enameling is carried out with the classic technique (made of copper, silver or gold). Silver wires stick on the metal and empty spaces are filled with enamel powder. Afterwards the plate is placed in a small kiln, where it is “baked” at a high temperature 750-800 degrees celsius). The next stage is refining and polishing the surface of the “baked” plate. After going through these stages, the product takes its final shape. This is how this beautiful jewelry is made. The process is quite labor-intensive, making each high-quality, hand-crafted piece entirely original.” (Sept. 15, 2022)

The kiln used to ‘bake’ the jewelry at the Enamel Workshop of the Ikorta Enamel Jewelry at the Tserovani Refugee Settlement, just outside the capital city of Tiblisi.
“The process of enameling is carried out with the classic technique (made of copper, silver or gold). Silver wires stick on the metal and empty spaces are filled with enamel powder. Afterwards the plate is placed in a small kiln, where it is “baked” at a high temperature 750-800 degrees celsius). The next stage is refining and polishing the surface of the “baked” plate. After going through these stages, the product takes its final shape. This is how this beautiful jewelry is made. The process is quite labor-intensive, making each high-quality, hand-crafted piece entirely original.” (Sept. 15, 2022)

I purchased two rings by this wonderful artist, Maia Gochashvili, at the Enamel Workshop of the Ikorta Enamel Jewelry at the Tserovani Refugee Settlement, just outside the capital city of Tiblisi. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The two rings I purchased at the Enamel Workshop of the Ikorta Enamel Jewelry at the Tserovani Refugee Settlement, just outside the capital city of Tiblisi. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The neighborhood of the Tserovani Refugee Settlement, just outside of the capital of Tiblisi. (Sept. 15, 2022)

We left Borjormi for the day to visit the Khertvisi Fortress, then we climbed the amazing cave city of Vardzia before a late afternoon visit to the Rabati Castle/Fortress. We ended our day and evening at our hotel, the Golden Tulip in Borjormi for a nice group dinner.

I have had some challenging and awe-inspiring experiences while traveling. I have taken a hot air balloon ride through the fairy chimney rock formations in Turkey, ridden a camel through the deserts of Morocco and Egypt; slept in the desert to wake up by the pyramids of African Kings and Queens in the Sudan, descended into the medieval rock churches carved into the ground of Lalibela, Ethiopia, and walked miles through Europe’s old towns, countrysides and cities while taking on the icy, cold landscape of Antarctica.

And, now, I have climbed and walked through the ancient and mighty rock cave city and monastery of Vardzia in the Republic of Georgia. There’s nothing easy about moving through the rock carved out dwellings of this city and climbing up and through the thick stairs, but I did it and it was wondrous!

Before the cave city of Vardzia, we visited the 10th-century Khertvisi Fortress. We ate a hearty late lunch before stopping to see the medieval 9th century fortress built under the name “Lomsia Castle,” but now called the Akhaltsikhe Rabati Castle/Fortress in the city of Akhaltsikhe before heading back to Borjormi for our last night at the Golden Tulip Hotel and dinner.

Me at the ancient and mighty rock cave city and monastery of Vardzia in Georgia. The Georgian King George III began to build this cave city of Vardzia in the 2nd half of the 12th century and his daughter, King Tamar (yes, his daughter was named the King) completed the construction. King Tamar was the first woman in the history of Georgia to be crowed king.
Vardzia consisted of a number of room, at present some 600 to 700 still exist, carved into this cliff and had many levels at one time that included royal chambers, residential halls, monastic cells, kitchens, stables, wine-cellars, galleries connecting them, secret and everyday tunnels, water pool and a water supply system. (Sept. 16, 2022)

A long distance view of the ancient rock cave city and monastery of Vardzia on the upper left side of the Erusheli mountain, located in the south of Georgia near the town of Aspindza. (Sept. 16, 2022)

The Erusheli mountain with the Mtkvari River passing through narrow canyons just slightly beyond the ancient rock cave city of Vardzia. (Sept. 16, 2022)

The exterior of the ancient rock city and monastery of Vardzia. King Giorgi IlI built a fortification here in the 12th century and his daughter, Queen Tamar, established a cave monastery that grew into a holy city housing perhaps 2000 monks and was renowned as a spiritual bastion of Christendom’s eastern frontier. A major earthquake in 1283 shook away the outer walls of many caves and the cave city began its long decline. (Sept. 16, 2022)

An exterior close-up of the cave city of Vardzia consisted of a number of room, at present some 600 to 700 still exist, carved into this cliff and had many levels at one time that included royal chambers, residential halls, monastic cells, kitchens, stables, wine-cellars, galleries connecting them, secret and everyday tunnels, water pool and a water supply system. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Taking a quick photo break while climbing up and through the cave city of Vardzia with Patricia (left), me and our wonderful Intrepid Travel leader, Manya. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Venturing through the cave city of Vardzia. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Views along the cliff side of the Erusheli mountain where the cave city of Vardzia was carved with the Mtkvari river passing through canyons below. Originally, there were about 3,000 caves in Vardzia, which could provide shelter for about 50,000 people. Of these, some 600 to 700 caves of various shapes and sizes still exist. (Sept. 16, 2022)

My selfie along the cliff side of the Erusheli mountain where the cave city of Vardzia was carved with originally some 3,000 caves. Of these, some 600 to 700 caves of various shapes and sizes still exist. (Sept. 16, 2022)

The refectory or dining room inside the cave city of Vardzia. (Sept. 16, 2022)

The external hallway leading to the Church of the Dormition of the Holy Virgin, the rock-cut monastery and central spiritual focus of the Vardzia cave city. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Inside the rock-cut monastery of the Church of the Dormition of the Holy Virgin, the central spiritual focus of the Vardzia cave city. It dates to the 1180s during the golden age of King Tamar, has an important series of frescoes including portraits of the royal founders, Giorgi III and Tamar, holding the church model. Both are dressed in Byzantine ceremonial clothes, in crowns, with halos. Carved into the mountainside rock, the church’s walls are reinforced in stone. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Inside the Church of the Dormition of the Holy Virgin, the central spiritual focus of the Vardzia cave city. (Sept. 16. 2022)

Frescoes of Tamar the Great (left, holding a model of the Church of the Dormition) and her father, George III, inside the Church of the Dormition of the Holy Virgin, the central spiritual focus of the Vardzia cave city. Tamar the Great reigned from reigned as King of Georgia from 1184 to her death in 1213. This fresco is one of four surviving portraits of King Tamar. Queen Tamar ordered the construction of this underground sanctuary in 1185, and the digging and carving began into the side of the Erusheli mountain, located in the south of the country near the town of Aspindza. (Sept. 6, 2022)

A close-up of the frescoes of Frescoes of Tamar the Great (left, holding a model of the Church of the Dormition) and her father, George III, inside the Church of the Dormition of the Holy Virgin, the central spiritual focus of the Vardzia cave city. Tamar the Great reigned from reigned as King of Georgia from 1184 to her death in 1213. This fresco is one of four surviving portraits of King Tamar. Queen Tamar ordered the construction of this underground sanctuary in 1185, and the digging and carving began into the side of the Erusheli mountain, located in the south of the country near the town of Aspindza. (Sept. 6, 2022)

Frescoes inside the Church of the Dormition of the Holy Virgin, the central spiritual focus of the Vardzia cave city. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Deep inside the cave city of Vardzia. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Making my way through one of the tunnels in the cave city of Vardzia. (Sept. 16, 2022)

A close-up of one of the staircases inside of the town of Vardzia. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Views from the cliff side cave city of Vardzia along the Erusheli mountain of the Mtkvari river passing through the canyons below. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Descending through another tunnel inside the cave city of Vardzia. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Views along the cliff side of the Erusheli mountain where the cave city of Vardzia was carved as we make continue to descend and exit. (Sept. 16, 2022)

A small winery below the cave city of Vardzia. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Exiting the carved city of Vardzia. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Although climbing through the cave carved city of Vardzia was both challenging and utterly impressive, we actually began the day at the amazing 10th century Khertvisi Fortress, both within a short distance, with beautiful views, from one another.

The large Khertvisi Fortress not far from the cave city of Vardzia, on this steep rock at the confluence of the Paravani and Mtkvari rivers, was presumably built between the 10th and 11th centuries. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Our group climbing up the side toward the entrance to the large Khertvisi Fortress not far from the cave city of Vardzia, on this steep rock at the confluence of the Paravani and Mtkvari rivers. It was presumably built between the 10th and 11th centuries. (Sept. 16, 2022)

The stone wall of the Khertvisi Fortress was the center of Meskheti region. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Me at the Khertvisi Fortress, one of the oldest fortresses in Georgia, was first mentioned in the 10th-11th centuries. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Inside the Khertvisi Fortress atop a rocky hillside. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Views of the Khertvisi village from inside the ruins of the Khertvisi Fortress in the Meskheti region of Georgia. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Me at the Hanging Bridge over the Mtkvari River near the Khertvisi Fortress. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Views from the Hanging Bridge over the Mtkvari River of the Khertvisi Fortress on the hillside. (Sept. 16, 2022)

We ended our day with the Rabbit Castle, a medieval fortress, in the town of Akhaltsikhe, built in the 9th century, but the the area of the fortress has been totally rebuilt.

The Rabati Castle, a medieval fortress, in the town of Akhaltsikhe was built in the 9th century under the name “Lomsia Castle.” The old stone fortress stands on a small hill on the very shores of the Potskhovi river. Its name comes from Arabic meaning “fortified place.” (Sept. 16, 2022)

The entrance gate to the Rabati Castle, a medieval fortress in the town of Akhaltsikhe, was built in the 9th century. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Inside the walls of the Rabati Castle, a medieval fortress, in the town of Akhaltsikhe. The area of the fortress is divided into a lower modern part and upper historical one. The lower part has shops, cafes, restaurant and a hotel. However, this upper part historical part consists of the Ahmadiyya Mosque (18th century), an Orthodox church (19th century), Djakeli castle/palace up high and the History Museum, which was closed during our visit. The castle complex has been pretty much rebuilt. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Inside the old stone Rabbit Castle, a medieval fortress, in the town of Akhaltsikhe. The history of Rabati fortress goes back into the centuries and no one can definitely say when the first fortification appeared. It is known that in the 12th century Djakeli prince’s family had built here the first real fortress and it had turned into their residence for 300 years. (Sept. 16, 2022)

The Rabati Castle, a medieval fortress, in the town of Akhaltsikhe. (Sept. 16, 2022)

Borjomi, a popular spa resort known for its mineral water and natural sulfur baths, was our home base for two nights while we explored surrounding sites. I did not partake of its sulphur baths but I did appreciate its old-world charms with a walk along the main drag of Aprili from our hotel, the Golden Tulip. The hotel was our two-night home base while doing day trips to the ancient town of Mtskheta where we ventured to the Jvari Monastery, the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, the Khertvisi Fortress, the cave town of Vardzia and the Rabati Castle/Fortress. Unfortunately by the time we arrived back in Borjomi from our day trips, I was just too tired to do any more exploring in this old-world spa resort.

So, here’s a little look at Borjomi before moving on to Gori, Georgia.

The Bridge of Beauty crossing over the Kura river into and out of the popular spa resort of Borjomi’s old town and mineral central park area where our group spent two nights. (Sept. 15, 2022)

Along Aprili Street in Borjomi, Georgia. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The colorful Crown Plaza Hotel with its wellness center and private mineral baths in the spa resort town of Borjomi, Georgia. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The Borjomula river running through the spa resort town of Borjomi. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The Mobius Loop bridge across the Borjomula river in the spa resort town of Borjomi. (Sept. 15, 2022)

Me at the Mobius Loop bridge across the Borjomula river in the spa resort town of Borjomi. (Sept. 15, 2022)

Store fronts along Aprili Street in Borjomi, Georgia. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The Memorial to the April 9th Tragedy close to the Borjomula river and along Aprili Street in Borjomi is dedicated to the memory of peaceful demonstrators who were massacred by
Soviet troops on April 9, 1989. Some 21 people were killed and hundreds injured during the demonstration to free Georgia from the Soviet Union and restore the country’s independence. (Sept. 15, 2022)

I really have enjoyed the hotels our tour group have stayed at during this ‘Premium’ Intrepid tour experience of “Azerbaijan, Georgia & Armenia.” And this one, the Golden Tulip Hotel in Borjormi, was no exception. It was built as a Palace in 1892 by the Consul General of Iran. The Palace, which the contemporaries called the ‘Promised Paradise’, is decorated with the Coat of Arms of Iran – the lion and sun. The turquoise colored building is commonly known as Blue Palace Firuza (turquoise in Georgian) with its open balcony of sparkling small mirror fragments covering the ceiling.(Sept. 15, 2022)

The Golden Tulip Hotel in Borjomi where our tour group spent two nights during our travels through Georgia. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The open balcony of the Golden Tulip Hotel, more commonly known as the Blue Palace Firuza in Borjomi, with its sparkling small mirror fragments covering the ceiling. The Palace was built in 1892 by the Consul General of Iran. The Palace, which the contemporaries called the ‘Promised Paradise’, is decorated with the Coat of Arms of Iran – the lion and sun. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The Golden Tulip Hotel in Borjomi’s exterior courtyard. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The Golden Tulip Hotel in Borjomi’s interior courtyard. (Sept. 15, 2022)

The Golden Tulip Hotel in Borjomi’s exterior hallway leading to my second floor room. (Sept. 15, 2022)

My room at the Golden Tulip Hotel in Borjomi. (Sept. 15, 2022)

This was another full and varied day. We departed Borjomi to make our way to Gori and then on to Gudauri for our last two nights in Georgia.

We began our morning with an orientation walk in Gori to get an understanding of its unique history as the birthplace of Joseph Stalin and more with the assistance of our local guide, Zhana Odiashvili. Stalin was born to a poor family in Gori, which at the time was in the Russian Empire. He served as Secretary General of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union from 1922 until his death in 1953. A brutal leader who oversaw the Soviet victory in World War II and the Soviet occupation of Eastern Europe and East Germany.

Although Gori has a history beyond Stalin, even though the museum seems to take center stage, it was still good to just walk around Georgia’s 5th most populous city. I can’t say Gori was all that impressive, but the people we came into contact with were welcoming especially an eyeglass frame shop that allowed several of us to use their toilets and the very warm reception we got at lunch at the KE&RA Restaurant by its wonderful host and owner Madloba Giorgi after our orientation walk and tour of the Joseph Stalin Museum. Although other countries, previously under the yoke of the USSR, toppled their statues of Stalin and other Soviet dictators, Gori dedicated a whole museum to him.

Afterward Gori, we drove up through the renowned Georgian Military Highway, which eventually leads to the Georgia–Russia border stopping to view the Zhinvali water reserves and the Ananuri architectural complex consisting of two churches and a fortress.

From there we took the scenic drive through the Caucasus Mountains to arrive at our hotel, the Marco Polo, in the ski resort town of Gudauri where we were able to get a nice buffet dinner at the hotel and rest up after this long, full day. Just one more full day to spend in Georgia.

We began our orientation walk of Gori on Stalin Avenue, with local guide Zhana Odiashvili, here at the entrance of the Great Patriotic War Museum and next to a war memorial plaza for soldiers who died in the World War II. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The World War II memorial plaza next to the Great Patriotic War Museum on Stalin Avenue in Gori. The memorial plaza pays tribute to the area’s past conflicts with these great Red Army reliefs along the plaza walls connecting to the war museum. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The World War II memorial next to the Great Patriotic War Museum on Stalin Avenue in Gori. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The Stalin Avenue street sign in Gori. (Sept. 17, 2022)

A wall of bullet holes damaged by Russian strikes during the 2008 occupation and street art on a building at the corner of Chavchavadze Street and Stalin Avenue in Gori. At the top of the wall is an aircraft dropping bombs on the outline of Georgia with the words “The Price of Independence.” (Sept. 17, 2022)

A close-up of the street art on a building at the corner of Chavchavadze Street and Stalin Avenue in Gori. It symbolizes a history of conflict with a man and his granddaughter standing under an apple tree by a barbed wire fence depicting the creeping Russian border into Georgia. (Sept. 17, 2022)

A view of an apartment complex and the Gori City Hall in the distance. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The Gori City Hall where a statue of Joseph Stalin was in front of the building until it was removed in 2010. (Sept. 17, 2022)

Our local guide, Zhana Odiashvili, took this group selfie outside the Gori Sports School and its beautiful ceramic tile wall created in 2021 by local artist Irina Shotadze. The 1001 tiles features a variety of Georgian elements. From left: Andreas, Ron, Patricia, our Intrepid group leader Manya, Judy, Bob, me and our local guide Zhana. The group selfie photo credit goes to our local guide Zhana, who can be contacted through her Gori Free Walking Tour Facebook Page at: https://www.facebook.com/GoriWalkingTour (Sept. 17, 2022)

A close-up of the colorful 1001 hand-painted tiles decorated with a variety of elements related to Georgian history or culture by local artist Irina Shotadze at the the Gori Sports School in Gori. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The Eristavi Theater in Gori is one of the first theatres built in Georgia. (Sept. 17, 2022)

A statue of Giorgi Eristavi (1813 –1864) at the Eristavi Theater in Gori. Eristavi was a Georgian playwright, poet, journalist and the founder of modern Georgian theater. (Sept. 17, 2022)

A cute little red car parked near the old town area of Gori with a sticker on the trunk window: “Fuck Putin.” (Sept. 17, 2022)

A “Fuck Putin” sign, with a half flag of Georgia and Ukraine, on the window of car parked just outside the Gori old town. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The old town area of Gori, Georgia. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The old town area of Gori, Georgia, as we make our way towards the Gori Fortress. (Sept. 17, 2022)

A view of the Gori Fortress from our walk through Gori’s old town. (Sept. 17, 2022)

A view of the Gori Fortress a medieval citadel on a rocky hill above the city of Gori first appears in records from the 13th century, but archaeological evidence shows that the area had already been fortified in the final centuries before Christ. The fortress was significantly damaged by the earthquake in 1920. We did not climb up to see the fortress. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The Gori Fortress a medieval citadel on a rocky hill above the city of Gori. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The bronze sculptures, eight seated in a half circle on rough hewn stone blocks, encompass the Memorial of Georgian Warrior Heroes below the Gori Fortress in Gori. The sculptures were made between 1981-85 by Georgian sculptor Giorgi Ochiauri. (Sept. 17, 2022)

My selfie at the Memorial of Georgian Warrior Heroes sculptures at the bottom of Gori Fortress in Gori, Georgia. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The Memorial of Georgian Warrior Heroes sculptures at the bottom of Gori Fortress. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The exterior of the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori. It contains a variety of items in roughly chronological order that were allegedly owned by Stalin including his office furniture, his person effects, gifts made and given to him throughout the years and his death mask. Prior to the dissolution of the Soviet Union, historians estimate that millions of people were killed by Stalin’s regime, none of which is depicted in the museum with its photographs, paintings and newspaper clips. (Sept. 17, 2022)

Inside the hallway and stairway entrance of the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori. It still maintains its Soviet-era characteristics and the people who work there seemed very suspicious of us and I felt like we were under a USSR microscope. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The staircase inside the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori leading to the exhibition halls. (Sept. 17, 2022)

A statue of Joseph Stalin (1878-1953) at the head of the staircase inside the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori. Stalin, as the chief architect of Soviet totalitarianism, was a skilled but phenomenally ruthless destroyer of individual freedom, something that’s definitely not mentioned or even remotely portrayed inside the museum.
From 1928 until his death in 1953, Joseph Stalin ruled the Soviet Union as a dictator, transforming the country from an agrarian peasant society into a global superpower. The cost was tremendous. Stalin was responsible for the deaths of millions of Soviet citizens. The brutal leader oversaw the Soviet victory in World War II and the Soviet occupation of Eastern Europe and East Germany. (Sept. 17, 2022)

Inside one of the pavilions of the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori with exhibitions dedicated to his rise in power without mention of the crimes and atrocities committed during his rule of the Soviet Union. (Sept. 17, 2022)

A portrait of young Stalin inside the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori, Georgia. (Sept. 17, 2022)

Photos, documents and more about Stalin inside the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori. (Sept. 17, 2022)

Inside another pavilion of the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori with exhibitions dedicated to his rise in power without mention of the crimes and atrocities committed during his rule of the Soviet Union. (Sept. 17, 2022)

A portrait of Stalin dressed in his military garb inside the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The World War II victory room inside the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The Memorial Room inside the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori displaying one of 12 copies of Stalin’s death mask. (Sept. 17, 2022)

A close-up of Stalin’s death mask inside the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori. The mask is one of 12 copies taken shortly after his death. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The gifts exposition hall inside the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori. The last hall of the exhibition shows items that belonged to Stalin and gifts received from foreign dignitaries and communist organization. (Sept. 17, 2022)

A close-up of a cabinet of kitschy gifts with Stalin’s image given to him as gifts from the Stalin Museum in Gori. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The office area of the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The house where Stalin was born in 1878 is inside this pavilion on the grounds of the Stalin Museum in Gori. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The house where Stalin was born is located on the grounds of the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori. Stalin was born in 1878 and lived for four years in the house. Stalin’s father, Vissarion Jughashvili, was a local shoemaker who rented the one room on the left hand side of the building and maintained a workshop in the basement. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The room where Stalin and his family lived at the Joseph Stalin Museum in Gori. Stalin’s father Vissarion Jughashvili, a local shoemaker, rented the one room on the left hand side of the building and maintained a workshop in the basement. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The green Pullman railway carriage Stalin used to travel with from 1941 is located on the Joseph Stalin Museum grounds in Gori. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The hallways inside the green Pullman railway carriage Stalin used to travel from 1941. It is located on the Joseph Stalin Museum grounds in Gori. (Sept. 17, 2022)

A bedroom inside the green Pullman railway carriage Stalin used to travel from 1941. It is located on the Joseph Stalin Museum grounds in Gori. (Sept. 17, 2022)

A bathroom inside the green Pullman railway carriage Stalin used to travel from 1941. It is located on the Joseph Stalin Museum grounds in Gori. (Sept. 17, 2022)

A meeting room inside the green Pullman railway carriage Stalin used to travel from 1941. It is located on the Joseph Stalin Museum grounds in Gori. (Sept. 17, 2022)

My selfie at our eclectic lunch stop at the KE&RA Restaurant in Gori, Georgia. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The KE&RA Restaurant in Gori is located behind a gate that leads to those luscious garden. (Sept. 17, 2022)

Madloba Giorgi, our host and owner of the KE&RA Restaurant in Gori, pouring his homemade Chacha, a strong distilled drink made from grapes. (Sept. 17, 2022)

Our small group of Intrepid travelers in the dining room area of the KE&RA Restaurant in Gori. From left, our wonderful Intrepid leader, Manya, Judy, me, Bob, Ron, Patricia and Andreas. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The eclectic bar and art area created by the owner and host of the KE&RA Restaurant, Madloba Giorgi, in Gori. (Sept. 17, 2022)

After leaving Gori and as we continued on to our final journey to Gudauri, we drove up the renowned Georgian Military Highway, which eventually leads to the Georgia–Russia border. On the way, we stopped at the gorgeous viewing point of the Zhinvali (Jinvali) Lake Reservoir. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The Zhinvali (Jinvali) Lake Reservoir along the Georgian Military Highway on our way to the Ananuri fortress complex. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The viewpoint of the beautiful Zhinvali (Jinvali) Lake Reservoir along the Georgian Military Highway on our way to the Ananuri fortress complex. (Sept. 17, 2022)

My selfie along the road of the Ananuri castle complex, seat of the eristavis (Dukes) of Aragvi, a feudal dynasty that ruled the area from the 13th century and the scene of numerous battles. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The Ananuri Castle/Fortress complex. Thank you Andreas for this beautifull photo. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The Ananuri Castle/Fortress complex. (Sept. 17, 2022)

Taking the steps down to the entrance of the Ananuri Castle/Fortress Complex with views of Lake Schinvali in the distance at the beginning of the Zhinvali (Jinvali) Lake Reservoir. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The walled entrance into the Ananuri Castle/Fortress Complex. (Sept. 17, 2022)

Inside the Ananuri Castle/Fortress complex. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The defensive tower on the south side of the Church of the Mother of God, Holy Mary, the main church at the Ananuri Castle/Fortress complex, commissioned by Prince Bardzim Mdiwanbeg and built in 1689 with yellow sandstone and this finely carved tree of life on the church’s facade. (Sept. 17, 2022)

A close-up of the carved southern facade of the Church of the Mother of God, Holy Mary, the main church at the Ananuri Castle/Fortress complex with the richly decorated tree of life, its alternating clusters of grapes and large palm-like leaves along with other finely carved designs. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The front entrance to the Church of the Mother of God, Holy Mary, the main church at the Ananuri Castle/Fortress complex built in 1689. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The exquisite carved grapevine cross on the exterior east façade and front entrance of the Church of the Mother of God, Holy Mary, the main church at the Ananuri Castle/Fortress complex built in 1689. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The entrance to the Church of the Mother of God, Holy Mary, the main church at the Ananuri Castle/Fortress complex built in 1689. (Sept. 17, 2022)

Inside the Church of the Mother of God, Holy Mary, the main church at the Ananuri Castle/Fortress complex built in 1689. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The altar inside the Church of the Mother of God, Holy Mary, the main church at the Ananuri Castle/Fortress complex built in 1689. (Sept. 17, 2022)

Paintings inside the Church of the Mother of God, Holy Mary, the main church at the Ananuri Castle/Fortress complex built in 1689. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The 17th century frescoes inside the Church of the Mother of God, Holy Mary, the main church at the Ananuri Castle/Fortress complex built in 1689. (Sept. 17, 2022)

The 17th century frescoes inside the Church of the Mother of God, Holy Mary, the main church at the Ananuri Castle/Fortress complex built in 1689. The partially preserved murals decorating the interior of the church were painted soon after its construction was completed. (Sept. 17, 2022)

Views along the Mtskheta-Stepantsminda-Larsi highway on our way to our home base for the next two nights in the ski resort town of Guadauri at the Marco Polo Hotel. (Sept. 17, 2022)

Our last full day in Georgia, before crossing the border to Armenia, was really about stunning views of the Caucasus Mountains during an utterly gorgeous day! From our home base at the Marco Polo Hotel in Gudauri we ventured to the Georgia-Russia Friendship Monument with its own spectacular views of the Caucasus Mountains. The monument was built in 1983 during Soviet rule of the country and was commissioned to celebrate the bicentennial, the 200th anniversary of the 1783 Treaty of Georgievsk and its so-called friendship between Georgia and Soviet Russian that has yet to truly materialize. Georgia won independence from the Soviet Union in 1991 and was admitted to the United Nations in July 1992. But the colorful monument has a stately place with some spectacular views.

From the Friendship Monument, we moved on to more spectacular views along the Georgian Military Road to the Gergeti Trinity Church which was built in the 14th century. To get part way to the church required taking a 4WD vehicle through a rocky roadway created by a landslide in 2021. But the views, from this small but picturesque Christian church located above the village of Kazbegi (Stepantsminda), were spectacular.

And, with still more views to take in of the magnificent Caucasus Mountains, we returned to Gudauri by way of the 4.6 miles or 7.5 kilometers cable ride from Kobi. The cable car allows more functional and easier transportation connecting these winter resorts to the ski slopes. But I found it to be a simply gorgeous way to take in the Georgian landscape on a beautiful day.

The Georgian landscape was in tiptop performance today and I’m so grateful to have been able to witness it. Enjoy the views. Armenia is next.