Azerbaijan: Old World Charms and Ultra Modern Wonders

I am comfortably in Baku, Azerbaijan. Made it in after midnight with a complimentary pickup service waiting to whisk me away to my hotel. Although this is part of Intrepid’s Premium package for this tour, I have previously arranged pickup service in the past, especially when I arrive late at night like I did on this trip.

Since I did not sleep on the 14-hour plus plane ride to Doha or while I was on my 2.5-hour connecting flight to Baku, I was able to get some needed rest in my Baku hotel before meeting my Intrepid travel group and our group leader/guide. I’m usually ready to hit the streets when I first land but this time, I just needed to rest and I’m so glad I did.

After our welcome meeting we were off to our welcome group dinner at the Sirvansah Musey Restaurant for some local cuisine in an even more appropriate local setting. The service was slow but the food, company and atmosphere made up for it.

And, just an FYI on traveling to Azerbaijan. I needed to obtain a Visa to enter the country. I got the Visa on-line in a couple of days before leaving home and printed out a copy. So the Visa, my vaccine card and of course, my passport were the only items checked by Qatar Airways in Dallas and again when I entered Baku thru passport control. I was concerned about the Hamad International Airport in Doha because they require a Covid test but only if you are staying in Doha, and I was not staying in Doha. Passports and tickets get checked several times at the Doha airport before being able to board the airplane to Baku, but no other documents were requested. And, masks were required to be worn during both flights although the mask wearing was not enforced.

I took two at home Covid tests before I left home because I wanted to make sure it was my allergies causing me problems and yes, it was my allergies because my Covid tests, a week apart, were both Negative. But no Covid test was required to enter Azerbaijan or the other two countries of Georgia and Armenia on this tour.

The exploring of Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, begins tomorrow and I am well-rested and ready.

Our Intrepid Travel Welcome Group Dinner selfie inside the Sizransah Muzey Restoran (Sirvansah Musey Restaurant) in Baku, Azerbaijan. From left: Bob, Manya (our Intrepid leader/guide), Ron, Judy and me taking the group selfie. Although we are missing two more travelers, this is another group of solo travelers. (Sept. 8, 2022)

Entering the Sirvansah Musey Restaurant in Baku for our Intrepid Welcome Dinner on the first night of our tour. (Sept. 8, 2022)

Inside the very lavishly decorated and very large Sirvansah Musey Restaurant in Baku which has been around since 1893. (Sept. 8, 2022)

There was a variety of bread and it is plentiful at the Sirvansah Musey Restaurant in Baku. (Sept. 8, 2022)

A close-up of our salads of pickled vegetables and an eggplant mix for dinner at the Sirvansah Musey Restaurant in Baku. (Sept. 8, 2022)

Different salads were available for dinner at the Sirvansah Musey Restaurant in Baku. The salads included red cabbage with small piles of chicken; pickled vegetables and an eggplant mix. (Sept. 8, 2022)

The red cabbage with bits of chicken turned out to be my favorite at the Sirvansah Musey Restaurant in Baku. (Sept. 8, 2022)

Fresh grilled vegetables at the Sirvansah Musey Restaurant in Baku. (Sept. 8, 2022)

Our server at the Sirvansah Musey Restaurant in Baku cutting up our main dish, the Shah Rice Pilaf. It’s rice baked in bread with wild plums, beef, chestnuts and raisins. (Sept. 8, 2022)

My plate of the main dish, the Shah Rice Pilaf at the Sirvansah Musey Restaurant in Baku. It’s rice baked in bread with wild plums, beef, chestnuts and raisins. (Sept. 8, 2022)

And, one of our drinks at the Sirvansah Musey Restaurant in Baku was this Pomegranate wine that’s made in Azerbaijan. Along with having a strong smell, it also had a strong taste even though it had an alcohol content of 11%. (Sept. 8, 2022)

Our hotel, the City Park Hotel Baku, where we spent our first couple of nights in the capital city of Azerbaijan. (Sept. 8, 2022)

Our hotel room at the City Park Hotel Baku where we spent our first couple of nights in the capital city of Azerbaijan. (Sept. 7, 2022)

Baku, the capital and largest city in the Republic of Azerbaijan, is the epitome of old, new, Arabic, Russian, Turkish, Muslims, even Jewish cultures and religions with wars and the Soviet Union invasion of Azerbaijan commingling to create a city that’s home to 25% of the country’s population.

And, the most ancient part, classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is Baku’s walled Old City with the Shirvanshah’s Palace Complex and Maiden Tower. There’s also a connection to the Silk Road with Caravanserai, built by local merchants for traders. The Silk Road was a network of paths connecting civilizations in the East and West where transported goods were traded at bazaars or caravanserai along the way for some 1,400 years.

Come follow me thru the Old City of Baku and the present-day Baku surrounding it.

Me at one of the entrances of the Old City of Baku’s medieval wall and towers surrounding the Old City, the most ancient part of Baku, which built around 1138 to 1399. (Sept. 9, 2022)

Another view of the medieval wall and towers surrounding the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The entrance (right) to the Old City of Baku’s medieval wall and towers surrounding the Old City is the most ancient part of Baku and was built around 1138 to 1399. And the entrance to the Icheri Sheher (which means Inner City) glass metro station building (left) was opened in November 1967 during the occupation of the Soviet Union. (Sept. 9, 2022)

Entering the Old City of Baku, close to the Shirvanshah’s Palace Complex. (Sept. 9, 2022)

An interesting sculpture of Azerbaijani poet Aliaga Vahid (1894-1965). His first book “Fruits of Greed” was printed in 1916. His pen-name “Vahid” (Unique) was given to him by a prominent poet of in the world of Baku literature. The sculpture was designed in 1990 by Rahib Hasanov and Natig Aliyev and is located in the Old City behind the fortress wall by the Metro station. (Sept. 9, 2022)

A close-up of the back of the head of the sculpture of Azerbaijani poet Aliaga Vahid (1894-1965) is made in the form of a huge head with figures of people, some say characters of the poets works, but more so the cyclical nature of people’s lives. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The Seven Beauties sculpture with the Shirvanshah’s Palace Complex in the background inside Baku’s Old City. The sculpture represents armuda glasses standing on top of each other. In Azerbaljan, tea-drinking is widespread and tea is regarded as a symbol of hospitality and respect to guests. Serving tea before the main course is an old tradition. It is customary to drink tea not from porcelain cups but from these special pear-shaped glasses called armudu. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The exterior of the Shirvanshahs Palace Complex in the Old City of Baku, The Shirvanshahs were rulers from the mid-9th century to the early 16th century. The Palace Complex and Maiden Tower are UNESCO World Heritage Sites inside Baku’s walled Old City. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The Throne Room was the centre of State representation inside the Shirvanshahs Palace Complex in the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

Traditional attire, on display inside the Shirvanshahs Palace Complex in the Old City of Baku, hardly changed until the 20th century. Men wore loose pants held by a belt. Depending on their income, their tunics were made of wool, silk or satin. Headgear such as turbans were also part of the wardrobe. Women’s attire was more sophisticated and often richer embellished, with embroidery according to their standing. Women wore skirts with waist-length blouses. There were also several types of jackets, padded according to the season or trimmed with fur. The hair and head of women were always covered with a veil or a scarf. (Sept. 9, 2022)

A miniature replica of the Old City of Baku inside the Shirvanshahs Palace Complex in the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

An empty mausoleum from the 15th century is part of the Shirvanshahs Palace Complex in the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

Inside an empty mausoleum from the 15th century which is part of the Shirvanshahs Palace Complex in the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

Another view of the empty mausoleum from the 15th century is part of the Shirvanshahs Palace Complex in the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The Shirvanshahs Palace Complex in the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The Shah’s Mosque from 1441-1441 inside the Shirvanshahs Palace Complex in the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

Inside the Sha’s Mosque inside the Shirvanshahs Palace Complex in the Old City of Baku. This portion of mosque was intended for the Shah and his courtiers, while a small one was intended for the Court women. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The Tomb of the Shirvanshahs’ Family from 1435 to 1436 inside the Shirvanshahs Palace Complex in the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

Inside the Tomb of the Shirvanshahs’ Family from 1435 to 1436 inside the Shirvanshahs Palace Complex in the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

A view of the Old City of Baku, from the Shirvanshahs Palace Complex, and the flame-shaped modern towers in the distance. The towers are intended to symbolize the elements of fire in reference to Azerbaijan’s nickname, “The Land of Fire,” from the region’s natural gas flares. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The bath house inside the Shirvanshahs Palace Complex in the Old City of Baku. It was discovered during the archaeological excavations carried out in 1939. The bath house was decorated both inside and outside by tiles. Water for the bath house was supplied from an underground water reservoir (‘ovdan”). The construction of the reservoir started in 1436 and in 1438 followed the bath house during the reign of Shirvanshah. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The Paired Fortress Gates to enter the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The national flag of Azerbaijan placed digitally along a building in the Old City of Baku. The flag features three equally sized bars of bright blue, red, and green; a white crescent; and a centred eight-pointed star. (Sept. 9, 2022)

A man and woman statues outside a souvenir shop in the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The entrance of the Bukhara Caravanserai, which is entirely under renovation, in the Old City of Baku. Caravanserai were built by merchants for the traders who brought spices, silk and other goods to trade for jewelry, weapons, carpets, oil, musical instruments, salt and more in Azerbaijan’s Silk Road. (Sept. 9, 2022)

A sneak peek inside the Bukhara Caravanserai, which is entirely under renovation, in the Old City of Baku. Caravanserai were built by merchants for the traders who brought spices, silk and other goods to trade for jewelry, weapons, carpets, oil, musical instruments, salt and more in Azerbaijan’s Silk Road. (Sept. 9, 2022)

Views of the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The Arcades & Religious Burial Place inside the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

Views of the former Bath Haji Habib now the Abai shop of art featuring local artists inside the Old City of Baku and next to the Arcades & Religious Burial Place. (Sept. 9, 2022)

Inside the former Bath Haji Habib now the Abai shop of art featuring local artists inside the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

A piece of art inside the former Bath Haji Habib now the Abai shop of art featuring local artists inside the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The Maiden Tower, a UNESCO World Heritage site, inside the Old City of Baku. The 12th century monument is one of Azerbaijan’s most distinctive national emblems, and is thus featured on Azerbaijani currency notes and official letterheads. Also in the foreground are the remains of the St. Bartholomew Church. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The remains of St. Bartholomew Church by the Maiden Tower, a UNESCO World Heritage site, inside the Old City of Baku. The church was built in 1892 where the Apostle Bartholomew was believed to have been killed by pagans around 71 AD. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The Maiden Tower in the Old City of Baku was possibly part of the ring of fortifications but its original function is still under debate. (Sept. 9, 2022)

Another view of the flame-shaped modern towers in the distance. The towers are intended to symbolize the elements of fire in reference to Azerbaijan’s nickname, “The Land of Fire,” from the region’s natural gas flares. (Sept. 9, 2022)

Views of the balcony covered architecture inside the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

Views of the Old City of Baku walls from the Philharmonic Fountain Park. (Sept. 9, 2022)

Views of the Old City of Baku walls at the Philharmonic Fountain Park. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The Philharmonic Fountain Park in Baku, Azerbaijan. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The tree of life displaying a female face by Ali Shamsi at the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

Another piece of art, the lion, by Ali Shami, inside the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

A close-up of the lion art inside the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

More art work in the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

Restaurant row in the Old City of Baku. (Sept. 9, 2022)

The National Museum of Azerbaijan Literature across from one of the oldest parks in Baku, the Nazimi Park. (Sept. 9, 2022)

And, at the opposite end of the the National Museum of Azerbaijan Literature and at the top of the Nazimi Park is the Monument to poet Nizami Ganjavi. (Sept. 9, 2022)

A close-up of the Monument to poet Nizami Ganjavi (c. 1141–1209) considered the greatest romantic epic poet in Persian literature.

Fountains Square, in Baku was named after the fountains throughout the square first constructed during Soviet rule of Azerbaijan. It’s a central public gathering place and a tourist destination with boutiques, restaurants, shops and hotels. (Sept. 9, 2022)

It was a day-long road trip on Saturday of visiting sites within an hour’s drive from Baku and back again. Some sites were interesting, some good and some, well…the jury is still out.

But it was still nice to travel beyond the boundaries of the country’s capital and largest city of Baku to see what else is out there. Plus to see how a country with so much history of occupation and war has found a way to stand on its feet to become its own nation. And did not become truly independent again until 1991, just 30-something years ago.

Our first stop was Martyrs Lane dedicated to those killed by the Soviet Union with a panoramic view of Baku, then we moved on to the Petroglyphs or ancient rock carvings and the mud volcanoes or mud domes at the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve. We also visited the Ateshgah Fire Temple, Mardakan Medieval Fortress and ended the day at the eternally burning Yanar Dag (Fire Mountain). It was our last full day in Baku before moving on thru Azerbaijan.

I’m not sure I would have sought out any of these sites on my own, but I’m always learning and seeking to see for myself what treasures both past and present a country is built on and continues to grow from.

Let’s take a look.

A group photo from the Highland Park considered the highest viewpoint in Baku for our panoramic views of the city with the three Flame Towers behind us. From left: Patricia, Andreas, me, Ron, Judy, our Intrepid leader Manya, Rob and our local guide, Masuma. (Sept. 10, 2022)

We began our full day at Martyrs’ Lane or Alley of Martyrs, a cemetery and memorial dedicated to those killed by the Soviet Army during Baku’s Black January in 1990, located on a hill in the south of the city close to the Flame Towers. Black January was a violent crackdown of Baku’s civilian population when in the dark of night, after the demolition of the central television station and termination of phone and radio lines by Soviet special forces, 26,000 Soviet troops entered Baku. As a part of a state of emergency during the dissolution of the Soviet Union, 147 civilians were killed, 800 people were injured and five people went missing. (Sept. 10, 2022)

The Martyrs’ Lane or Alley of Martyrs a cemetery and memorial dedicated to those killed by the Soviet Army during Black January 1990 in Baku. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Martyrs’ Lane or Alley of Martyrs formerly known as the Kirov Park is a cemetery and memorial in Baku dedicated to those killed by the Soviet Army during Black January 1990. During the Black January crackdown Soviet authorities managed to suppress all efforts to disseminate news from Azerbaijan to the local population and the international community. (Sept. 10, 2022)

The first tomb in the entrance of Martyrs’ Lane belongs to married couple Fariza and Ilham Allahverdiyev who died during Black January in Baku. Ilham, was shot dead by Soviet troops and Fariza committed suicide after hearing of her husband’s death. The tomb has become a symbol of fidelity and love. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Victims marble tombs of Black January on Martyrs’ Lane in Baku. Lined up against a white wall are more than 150 black marble tombs of those who died on January 20, 1990. (Sept. 10, 2022)

A close-up of the Eternal Flame Monument, situated at the Martyrs’ Lane, is a memorial complex composed of a tomb standing on an 8-pointed star crown with a gold-framed glass dome. (Sept. 10, 2022)

The Baku Panoramic Viewpoint of Highland Park by the Eternal Flame Monument in Baku. The Park’s elevated terrace offers dramatic views of Baku and Baku Bay. (Sept. 10, 2022)

The five story, eight petal flowered glass and steel building of the Caspian Waterfront Mall in Baku is a mixed-use retail, leisure and entertainment facility. (Sept. 10, 2022)

The Baku Panoramic Viewpoint of Highland Park in Baku. The Park’s elevated terrace offers dramatic views of the city and sea. (Sept. 10, 2022)

The Flame Towers, a group of three skyscrapers, seen from Highland Park or ‘Viewing Square’ in Baku. The three flame-shaped towers are intended to symbolize the elements of fire, and are a reference to Azerbaijan’s nickname “The Land of Fire” historically rooted in a region where natural gas flares emit from the ground. The three buildings (South, East and West) consist of about 130 residential apartments over 33 floors, a Fairmont hotel tower that consists of 250 rooms and 61 serviced apartments, and office space. (Sept. 10, 2022)

The marble stairs, and there were a lot of them, leading from the highest point in Baku at Highland Park down to our awaiting van to whisk us off to our next adventures. The Park provides a beautiful panoramic view of Baku and the Baku Bay. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Views of the marble staircase from below the incredible views of the Highland Park in Baku. I think schoolaged boys were using the stairs for the physical fitness traiing. (Sept. 10, 2022)

The Flame Tower skyscrapers (South, East and West) consist of about 130 residential apartments over 33 floors, a Fairmont hotel tower that consists of 250 rooms and 61 serviced apartments, and office space. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Our very comfortable van for the day providing comfortable seating for our six member group, Intrepid Leader and local tour guide as we traveled around Baku. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Me inside one of the petroglyph or rock engraving boulder cave areas of the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve, a large open-air archaeological museum, about 40 miles southwest of Azerbaijan’s capital city of Baku. Gobustan is a UNESCO World Heritage center and includes prehistoric rock carvings, mud volcanoes and more. It covers a vast area. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Entrance to the petroglyphs of the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve just outside of Azerbaijan’s capital city of Baku. There are said to be more than 6,000 rock carvings, which depict people, animals, battle-pieces, ritual dances, bullfights, boats with armed oarsmen, warriors with lances in their hands, camel caravans, pictures of sun and stars. And, these engravings date back to an average of 5,000 to 20,000 years. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Walking up and through the plateau of rocky boulders rising out of the semi-desert to find the petroglyphs of the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve just outside of Azerbaijan’s capital city of Baku. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Inside a rocky boulder cave of petroglyph or rock engravings at the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve just outside of Azerbaijan’s capital city of Baku. The petroglyphs were discovered in the 1930s when this and the surrounding area of huge boulders and rock formations were being as a stone quarry. (Sept. 10, 2022)

A quick selfie with our Intrepid Travel leader, Manya, and tour group member, Patricia, inside a petroglyph or rock engravings boulder cave area of the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve just outside of Baku. (Sept. 10, 2022)

A view of some of the petroglyphs or rock engravings at the open-area museum of the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve just outside of Azerbaijan’s capital city of Baku. The engravings, not paintings or drawings, are of a variety of images created by ancient people. There are said to be more than 6,000 rock carvings, which depict people, animals, battle-pieces, ritual dances, bullfights, boats with armed oarsmen, warriors with lances in their hands, camel caravans, pictures of sun and stars. And, these engravings date back to an average of 5,000 to 20,000 years. (Sept. 10, 2022)

A close up of the the petroglyphs or rock engravings at the open-area museum of the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve just outside of Baku. There are said to be more than 6,000 rock carvings, which depict people, animals, battle-pieces, ritual dances, bullfights, boats with armed oarsmen, warriors with lances in their hands, camel caravans, pictures of sun and stars. And, these engravings date back to an average of 5,000 to 20,000 years. (Sept. 10, 2022)

A boulder in the open-air petroglyphs of the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve just outside of Azerbaijan’s capital city of Baku depicting 12 anthropomorphic images in two rows of carvings. There are said to be more than 6,000 rock carvings, which depict people, animals, battle-pieces, ritual dances, bullfights, boats with armed oarsmen, warriors with lances in their hands, camel caravans, pictures of sun and stars. And, these engravings date back to an average of 5,000 to 20,000 years. (Sept. 10, 2022)

A close-up of the ancient rock engravings at the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve just outside of Azerbaijan’s capital city of Baku. It depicts 12 anthropomorphic images in two rows of carvings. These are said to date back to the Mesolithic period of about 10,000 to 8,000 BC. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Views of the semi-desert area surrounding the petroglyph rocky boulders of the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve. In the distance is the Caspian Sea. At one time, about a million or so years ago, the sea once covered most of the area below.
While exiting but still in the open-air museum, a woman who had been smoking, stooped down to the ground by a rock, extinguished her cigarette bud and then just left it there like this open-air museum was her personal ashtray. My Intrepid leader/guide Manya picked it up and properly disposed of it. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Standing on the cliff edge by the petroglyphs at the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve where the Caspian Sea, in the distance, melts into the sky. It is surreal to think that at one time the Caspian Sea, about a million years ago, covered this whole area.
(Sept. 10, 2022)

These round holes in the ground, called unmovable cups, were dug with stone tools as cone-shaped cupules for a variety of purposes such as gathering rain water, sacrificial blood and even preparation of meals at the petroglyphs at the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve outside of Baku. According to the archeological records, the emergence of these ‘cup marks’ began at the transition period from the end of the Mesolithic to the Early Neolithic. The diameter of the cup marks in the rocks range from about 4 to 16 inches (10 to 40 cm), with a depth of about 4 to 8 inches (10 to 20 cm). (Sept. 10, 2022)

Me at our next stop of the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve, the mud volcanoes or mud domes.(Sept. 10, 2022)

The dry, bumpy and rocky roads leading to the mud volcanoes or mud domes at the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve just outside of Azerbaijan’s capital city of Baku. (Sept. 10, 2022)

The bubbling mud lake, that you’re allowed to bath in because its cool, is located by the mud volcanoes or domes at the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve just outside of Azerbaijan’s capital city of Baku. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Walking up to an active mud volcano or mud dome at the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve just outside of Azerbaijan’s capital city of Baku. We changed vehicles to come in a van that does takes people through the dry, bumpy roads to the mud volcanoes. Taxis bring tourists here. But while we were walking up to the mud volcanoes the taxi sped by and like the car in the photo parked right in the area of the mud volcano. This doesn’t make for smart conservation or preservation for a UNESCO World Heritage site. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Mud domes at the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve. (Sept. 10, 2022)

A close-up of the bubbling mud a top the mud volcano or mud dome at the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve. A mud volcano or mud dome is a landform created by the eruption of mud or slurries, water and gases. Mud volcanoes do not produce lava. (Sept. 10, 2022)

People stand on and by the mud volcano or mud dome at the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve. The mud running down from the volcano was dried, caked mud but you could still see the tire tracks tracks from the cars, taxis, vans etc. coming so close to the mud volcano. And this is a UNESCO World Heritage Site? It felt more like a touristy curiosity than a geological site of some importance. I was impressed by the site but not the way it was treated. ( Sept. 10, 2022)

The entrance portal to the Baku Ateshgah, often called the “Fire Temple of Baku,” with its Central Temple and Flame where the fire rituals of this religious temple took place. (Sept. 10, 2022)

The Central Altar or Temple and Flame at the Baku Ateshgah, often called the “Fire Temple of Baku,” is where the fire rituals of this religious temple were observed in the town of Surakhany, close to Baku. The word “Atashgah” means “house of fire” in Azerbaijani. Until the 19th century, natural gas leaked through the rocks around the temple causing the so-called “burning earth” phenomenon. The site was probably already considered sacred by ancient fire worshippers, but the altar or temple building that we see here now was built at the end of the 1500’s and the beginning of the 1600’s. The walls surrounding the courtyard contain rooms similar to the caravanserais, a roadside inn where travelers could rest and recover from the day’s journey. (Sept. 10, 2022)

One of the rooms along the wall surrounding the Central Altar or Temple at the Baku Ateshgah, often called the “Fire Temple of Baku,” where fire rituals took place in the town of Surakhany, close to Baku. (Sept. 10, 2022)

A replica of the Central Altar with people around a fire ritual at the Baku Atashgah, often called the “Fire Temple of Baku.” (Sept. 10, 2022)

The Central Altar or Temple and Flame (left) and the entrance portal/tower of the
Baku Ateshgah, often called the “Fire Temple of Baku,” where fire rituals were observed in the town of Surakhany, close to Baku. The word “Atashgah” means “house of fire” in Azerbaijani. (Sept. 10, 2022)

It is said that the “Three Musketeers” author, Alexander Dumas, stayed above in this entrance portal/tower to the Baku Atashgah, often called the “Fire Temple of Baku,” in the town of Surakhany, close to Baku. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Through this gate, in the middle of a residential neighborhood with small businesses is the Great Mardakan, a 12th century quadrangular fortress castle in the village of Mardakan just outside of Baku. I’m always intrigued how places keep the history alive while providing modern-day living for its people. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Passing thru the gate, the first thing you see, besides the watch tower of the Great Mardakan Fortress close by, is the Tuba Shahi Mosque, constructed in the 15th century in the village of Mardakan just outside of Baku. The mosque was said to have been named after the woman who ordered its construction. But now the mosque and area surrounding it are under restoration. (Sept. 10, 2022)

The Tuba Shahi Mosque, next to the Great Mardakan Fortress, was constructed in the 15th century in the village of Mardakan just outside of Baku. The mosque was said to have been named after the woman who ordered its construction. But now the mosque and area surrounding it are under restoration. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Entering the impressive 12th century watch tower of the Great Mardakan Fortress in the village of Mardakan just outside of Baku. I don’t know about you, but I don’t have a castle /watch tower in my neighborhood, especially one built in the middle of the 12th century that is this historical and well preserved on the exterior. This tower was once used as shelter and as an observation point. These kinds of towers were part of a chain of towers and other fortresses used to protect its people. When enemies attacked, the tops of these towers were lit up with oil to warn the population of the approaching danger. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Entering the impressive 12th century watch tower of the Great Mardakan Fortress in the village of Mardakan just outside of Baku. (Sept. 10, 2022)

An exterior side view of the impressive Great Mardakan Fortress watch tower in the village of Mardakan just outside of Baku. (Sept. 10, 2022)

The inner courtyard of the Great Mardakan Fortress in the village of Mardakan just outside of Baku is a little less impressive inside but restoration of this watch tower is underway. This tower was once used as a shelter and observation point. (Sept. 10, 2022)

The inner courtyard of the Great Mardakan Fortress in the village of Mardakan just outside of Baku has these holes in the ground where food was once stored. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Entrance to the watch tower in the inner courtyard of the Great Mardakan Fortress is possible but is still under restoration in the village of Mardakan just outside of Baku. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Leaving the Great Mardakan, a 12th century quadrangular fortress castle in Mardakan, Baku, and walking back to our van through the residential and business neighborhood surrounding it. (Sept. 10, 2022)

Our last and very quick event of the day was this quick visit to Yanar Dagh, which means burning mountain, at the Yanardagh State Historical, Cultural and Natural Reserve just outside of Baku. Azerbaijan has been famous for its oil and gas deposits, which is why it’s known as the “Land of Fire.” At some places, like this, natural gas is so close to the surface that it seeps through the upper layers of the soil. (Sept. 10, 2022)

The burning flames of Yanar Dagh at the
Yanardag State Historical, Cultural and Natural Reserve outside of Baku. The surface flames result from the steady gas emissions from underlying soils. (Sept. 10, 2022)

In order to protect Yanar Dagh, considered a landmark and to support tourism in the area, the Yanardagh State Historical, Cultural and Natural Reserve was established. The reserve covers an area of 2.47 acres or 64.55 hectares and has this 500-seat amphitheater for outdoor concerts that looks onto the hillside with its natural gas fire that continuously blazes. (Sept. 10, 2022)

I’m not sure what I was expecting from these “mountain flames” or hillside with its natural gas fire that continuously blazes called Yanar Dagh near Baku in the Absheron District, but it wasn’t this. I can’t say I have seen fire coming from the ground like this, that someone had not set, but with all the tourism hoopla and its very own facility with a small museum, I had more in mind. I do understand this area may have once been sacred, a place for fire worshippers and with the sun setting and the air getting cooler, the heat did actually feel good but this whole building for this small section of flames seemed a bit too much! (Sept. 10, 2022)

We left Baku on Sunday to spend a night in Sheki, Azerbaijan, to make our way closer to the Georgian border and the Caucasus Mountains in the northwest of Azerbaijan while still exploring sites along the way.

Although it was a long travel day, we crossed from the desert dry lands of Baku into the green and forested trees of Sheki while stopping to see the Diri Baba Mausoleum in Maraza (now named Gobustan) before exploring the Yeddi Gumbaz Mausoleum, and Juma Mosque in Shamakhi.

We, our Intrepid leader, Manya; our new local guide for our remaining time in Azerbaijan, Elchin; our van driver Zohrab and our possessions arrived in Sheki to see the Sheki Khan’s Palace, learn to put together our own Shebeke or stained glass and had a wonderful group dinner at the VIP Karvan Restaurant before closing out the day for a night’s stay at the Sheki Palace Hotel.

Here’s our last full and quite busy day in Azerbaijan.

My Intrepid tour group at the end of our day at the local craft workshop by the Sheki Khan Palace displaying our completed stained glass pieces at the workshop. Shabaka is a traditional Azerbaijani stained glass technique using pre-cut wood and glass (in this case, plastic) pieced together like a jigsaw puzzle and all without the use of nails or glue. From left: Andreas, Patricia, Ron, me, our stained-glass workshop guide, Bob, Manya, our Intrepid leader and Judy. (Sept. 11, 2022)

Our first stop of the morning, on our way to Sheki, was to visit the pilgrimage site of the Diri Baba Mausoleum in Maraza (now called Gobustan). The two-story mausoleum-mosque of Sheikh Diri Baba was built into the cliff in 1402. Many legends and myths are connected to this place. For a long time, local residents believed in a legend that a sacred person called Diri Baba was buried here. The closer I got the more the area felt a bit like Petra in Jordan but on a very small scale. (Sept. 11, 2022)

People making their way up the stairs of the Diri Baba Mausoleum in Gobustan. The mausoleum was actually closed for restoration and had just recently opened to the public. (Sept. 11, 2022)

At the entrance to the Diri Baba Mausoleum in Gobustan which was built in 1402. (Sept. 11, 2022)

Once inside the ground floor stairs inside the Diri Baba Mausoleum in Gobustan there’s a narrow, steep staircase to the cupola of a small vestibule. (Sept. 11, 2022)

The second floor cupola of a small vestibule inside the Diri Baba Mausoleum in Gobustan with a narrow entryway that leads to the burial vault of the sacred person. Before entering one at a time, you are required to take off your shoes. (Sept. 11, 2022)

The small, compact burial vault inside the Diri Baba Mausoleum in Gobustan. (Sept. 11, 2022)

The early 1700s cemetery on a cliff opposite the Diri Baba Mausoleum in Gobustan. (Sept. 11, 2022)

A side view of the Juma Mosque in Shamakhi was originally constructed in 743 AD and is the second oldest mosque in Azerbaijan. (Sept. 11, 2022)

Inside the Juma Mosque in Shamakhi was originally constructed in 743 AD and is the second oldest mosque in Azerbaijan. (Sept. 11, 2022)

An 18th and 19th century Yeddi Gumbaz mausoleums and burial vaults in Shamakhi is said to be the burial grounds for the Mustafa Khan, the last ruler of Shamakhi. Unfortunately, only three out of the seven original mausoleums survived. (Sept. 11, 2022)

The 18th and 19th century Yeddi Gumbaz Mausoleum in Shamakhi, Azerbaijan. (Sept. 11, 2022)

The headstones inside one of the circular mausoleums, the Yeddi Gumbaz Mausoleum in Shamakhi. (Sept. 11, 2022)

A close-up of one of the headstones inside one of the circular mausoleums, the Yeddi Gumbaz Mausoleum in Shamakhi. (Sept. 11, 2022)

Views off the highway in Shemakhi, Azerbaijan, on our way to Sheki, Azerbaijan, for the night. (Sept. 11, 2022)

We stopped along the highway in Shamakhi, on our way to Sheki, Azerbaijan, to pick up some fruit and nuts at a stand along the side of the road. What caught my eye were the colorful, circular pieces, traditional Azerbaijani fruit lavash of pressed dried fruit. (Sept. 11, 2022)

The traditional lavash of pressed dried fruit sold along the highway and other places in Azerbaijan. (Sept. 11, 2022)

Camp and vacation sites along the main and only highway between Baku and Sheki where locals vacation. (Sept. 11, 2022)

One of the vacation camping sites, where we stopped for a coffee and toilet break, along the highway from Baku to Sheki is this Vandam village site with a statue of bodybuilder and actor Jean-Claude Van Damme doing the splits across two tree stumps. I have no idea why a Van Damme statue is here since he is from Belgium and or whether or not the village featured him because of its name or its name came about because of him. (Sept. 11, 2022)

The Belgium bodybuilder and actor Jean-Claude Van Damme doing the splits across two tree stumps at the Vandam village campsite where we stopped for a coffee and toilet break on our way to Sheki for the night before crossing the border on Monday into Georgia. (Sept. 11, 2022)

The partial stoned walled gate around the Sheki fortress in which the only surviving building is the Sheki Khans Palace in Sheki, Azerbaijan. (Sept. 11, 2022)

The partial stoned walled entrance around the Sheki fortress in which the only surviving building is the Sheki Khans Palace in Sheki, Azerbaijan. (Sept. 11, 2022)

The exterior of the Sheki Khans Palace in Sheki, Azerbaijan, was a summer residence for the Sheki Khans in charge of controlling Shaki. The two-story residence was built in the late 1700s by Muhammed Hasan Khan. The Palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (Sept. 11, 2022)

The exterior of the Sheki Khans Palace in Sheki, Azerbaijan, was decorated with dark blue, turquoise and ochre tiles in geometric patterns. (Sept. 11, 2022)

An interior first floor room inside the Sheki Khan’s Palace in Sheki, Azerbaijan. The interior walls of the summer residence are covered entirely with frescoes painted at different times during the 18th century. And the room features a fountain. (Sept. 11, 2022)

The interior first floor room inside the Sheki Khan’s Palace in Sheki, Azerbaijan, features the beautiful Shebeke stained glass. Shebeke is made from wood and colored glass that is expertly slotted together like a puzzle with pre-cut pieces into a frame. No glue, nails or any other fastener is used to create these stunning stained glass pieces. (Sept. 11, 2022)

Interior of a second floor room inside the Sheki Khan’s Palace in Sheki, Azerbaijan, features the beautiful Shebeke stained glass. (Thank you Andreas for the photo.) (Sept. 11, 2022)

A small Shebeke stained glass piece at the stained glass workshop located close to the Sheki Khan Palace in Sheki, Azerbaijan. (Thank you Bob Andrew for the photo.) (Sept. 11, 2022)

A close-up of the small pre-cut wood and plastic pieces used to create the Shebeke stained glass, one of Sheki’s many specialty crafts in Azerbaijan. The wooden pre-cut pieces are slotted together to create intricate wooden frames without metal fastenings or glues. (Thank you Bob Andrew for the photo.) (Sept. 11, 2022)

Entrance to the Sheki Caravanserai in Sheki, Azerbaijan. A caravanserai was a roadside inn where travelers could rest and recover from the day’s journey. Although the Sheki Caravanseraie was constructed in the 18th and 19th centuries, it was part of a long tradition of Sheki as a trade center. (Sept. 11, 2022)

Inside the huge wooden doors of the Sheki Caravanserai with a fountain in the central courtyard that leads to an exterior courtyard with three walls of stone arches and cloisters. (Sept. 11, 2022)

Me inside the Sheki Caravanserai in Sheki, Azerbaijan. (Sept. 11, 2022)

The Sheki Caravanserai in Sheki, Azerbaijan. The upper and lower Caravanserais were built in the 18th century and used by merchants to store their goods in cellars, who traded on the first floor, and lived on the second. (Sept. 11, 2022)

Shops alongside the exterior of the Sheki Caravanserai in Sheki, Azerbaijan. (Sept. 11, 2022)

Shops alongside the Sheki Caravanserai in Sheki, Azerbaijan. (Sept. 11, 2022)

Our group dinner at VIP Karvan Restaurant in Sheki, Azerbaijan. (Sept. 11, 2022)

The Sheki Palace Hotel in Sheki, Azerbaijan. My room had great views. (Sept. 11, 2022)

My room at the Sheki Palace Hotel in Sheki, Azerbaijan. (Sept. 11, 2022)

Evening views from my room at the Sheki Palace Hotel of Sheki, Azerbaijan. (Sept. 11, 2022)

Before leaving Sheki, Azerbaijan to cross the border into Georgia, we made a quick stop into the colorful Sheki Bazaar.

Entering the colorful Sheki Bazaar in Sheki, Azerbaijan before crossing the border into Georgia. (Sept. 12, 2022)

The colorful Sheki Bazaar in Sheki, Azerbaijan, before crossing the border into Georgia. (Sept. 12, 2022)

Next stop, the country of Georgia.