Latvia: Riga & Sigulda – My Travel Notions

We left our wonderful little hotel, the Rija Old Town Hotel, on the edge of Old Town Tallin, Estonia, early Tuesday morning at 8:00 sharp to walk to the tram station, bags and all. The walk wasn’t far, just a few minutes across the bricked streets so warmly described as cobblestones, but it makes for a difficult few minutes when you’re rolling your luggage…like I do. The early start was to make sure we made it to the bus station in time to catch our 9:30 am 4-hour bus to Riga, Latvia, our home base for the next three nights.

Riga, a picturesque medieval city founded in the 1200’s is filled with just about every architectural style imaginable, Gothic, Baroque, Romanticism, with some dating back to the 15th century. Riga, the capital and largest city of Latvia with its Old Town, has been designated as a UNESCO world heritage site.

We made it early enough to get in a rather lengthy introductory walking tour, which was helpful since we’ll have a free day to explore on our own.

Here’s our introduction to Riga, Latvia.

We arrived at our hotel, the Avalon, in Riga in time to check in, find a place for a late lunch and get in a good orientation walk of the city on an utterly gorgeous day. (Aug. 2, 2022)

I got to check into my room at the Avalon Hotel before we gathered for our introductory walk through Riga. This is the first time I’ve had a hotel room with stairs at the door. Definitely a hazard. But it was also a nice room. (Aug. 2, 2022)

The inside view, from the glass elevator, of the Avalon Hotel in Riga, Latvia. (Aug. 3, 2022)

Walking through a lovely park in Riga to get to our lunch spot. (Aug. 2, 2022)

The first thing we did in Riga, Latvia, was to get a late lunch at Lido before starting our orientation walk. (Aug. 2, 2022)

Inside the Lido buffet restaurant in Riga, Latvia. (Aug. 2, 2022)

To my wonderful surprise, Lido in Riga is a buffet restaurant with delicious food. I love a buffet and this one was wonderful. (Aug. 2, 2022)

The food at the Lido restaurant in Riga was quite varied and also reasonably priced. (Aug. 2, 2022)

The Freedom Monument in Riga honors soldiers killed during the Latvian War of Independence. Unveiled in 1935, the 138 foot (42 meter) monument of granite, travertine, and copper commemorates the war’s fallen soldiers. The war was a series of military conflicts in Latvia between December 1918 and August 1920.
Latvia was annexed by the Soviet Union following its occupation of the country in 1949. And, at that time, the Freedom Monument was considered for demotion but Soviet sculptor Vera Mukhina considered it to be of high artistic value, it was spared. During the Soviet era, it remained a symbol of national independence to the general public. A 1987 laying of flowers turned into a renewed rally of national independence that culminated three years later in the re-establishment of Latvian sovereignty after the dissolution of the Soviet Union. (Aug. 2, 2022)

The Apotheosis of Latvia, man with sword and shield, of the Freedom Monument honoring soldiers killed during the Latvian War of Independence in Riga, Lativia. (Aug. 2, 2022)

A close-up of the copper figure of Liberty on the top of the Freedom Monument in Riga lifting three gilded stars. The Freedom Monument represents a memorial dedicated to the soldiers who were killed during the Latvian War of Independence between 1918-1920. The 30 foot (9 meter high) statue symbolizes a woman liberator of Latvia from foreign powers in her out-stretched arms. The three gilded stars symbolize the three historic Latvian regions. (Aug. 2, 2022)

Wandering through the cobblestone streets and alleyways of the Old Town Riga. (Aug. 2, 2022)

The Three Brothers, a building complex, form the oldest complex of houses in Riga. Located on Maza Pils Street, the buildings have the addresses of 21, 19, and 17. Building number 21, to the left in a lime green color, is the most narrow of the three. It was built near the end of the 17th century. The yellow middle house, number 19, dates to 1646. The stone door frame was added in 1746, which has been carved into the top along with the Latin phrase“Soli Deo Gloria!” which translates to “Glory to God alone!”. Building number 17 (right) is the oldest of the three, built during the late 15th century. (Aug. 2, 2022)

The Daugava river along the Vanšu bridge in Riga. It is one five bridges crossing the Daugava and was built during the period of Soviet Union. It was opened for public use in July 1981. (Aug. 2, 2022)

The wooden, colorful doll on display in a Riga store window is a Matryoshka. The Russian wooden doll, with smaller dolls stacked within the bigger one, is considered to be a symbol of Russian folk art and culture.
“Each wooden doll is imbued with the symbolism of fertility. The largest doll is considered the matriarch of the family, while the smallest is called the ‘seed’ and represents the soul. They’re seen as a representation of a chain of mothers carrying on the family legacy through the child in their womb,” . (Aug. 2, 2022)

An apartment complex, one of many Art Nouveau buildings, in Riga. (Aug. 2, 2022)

A close-up of an apartment complex, one of many Art Nouveau buildings, in Riga. (Aug. 2, 2022)

My feet selfie on the colorful brick-looking cobblestone streets of Old Town Riga. (Aug. 2, 2022)

Trokšņu iela is said to be the oldest and narrowest street in Old Town Riga. The street originated in the 13th century and until the 16th century it formed the inner side of the city’s once defensive wall. (Aug. 2, 2022)

The Swedish Gate, erected 1698, was part of the Riga Wall to provide access to soldiers barracks outside the city wall. The gate is just off of Trokšņu iela, the oldest and narrowest street in Old Town Riga. The street originated in the 13th century and until the 16th century it formed the inner side of the city’s once defensive wall. Local lore tells that the apartment above the gate once belonged to the city executioner, who’d put a red rose in the window the day before an execution. (Aug. 2, 2022)

On Torna Street the Jacob’s Barracks (yellow to the left) and the red brick restored section of Riga’s Walls and the Ramer Tower (red to the right). (Aug. 2, 2022)

The restored red brick section of Riga’s Walls and the Ramer Tower (red to the right). (Aug. 2, 2022)

Originally called the Sand Tower when it was built in 1330, it was renamed the Powder Tower in the 17th century when gunpowder was stored there. Originally the tower was part of Riga’s defensive wall system and has been rebuilt several times. The current Powder Tower was built in 1650 and renovated from 1937 to 1940 when it became a part of the Latvian War Museum. (Aug. 2, 2022)

I really enjoyed the varied architecture in Riga. This is the art nouveau-looking building of the Ministry of Education and Science in Riga. (Aug. 2, 2022)

This building is called the Cat House. See the cat, appearing like a weathervane on the rooftop turret to the left. The story of the cat starts with the building owner, a wealthy Latvian merchant, who could not obtain membership with the Great Guild just across the street from him. Their reason was that he was Latvian and membership was reserved for German merchants only. Out of revenge, the Latvian merchant put two angry looking cats on the roof with their tails up and their butts turned towards the Great Guild building. That was not well received by the guild members. A long court battle followed and in the end the merchant won. After they accepted him as a member of the Guild, the merchant agreed to turn the cats with their face toward the building. (Aug. 2, 2022)

The Cat House with its cats on the corner turrets of the building was built in 1909 and designed by architect Friedrich Schefel. Schefel and Heinrich Scheel are regarded as pioneers of Riga’s Art Nouveau architecture. (Aug. 2, 2022)

Riga’s Old Town is a compact yet charming maze of medieval streets, squares and alleyways. It’s also home to colorful and Art Nouveau architecture. (Aug. 2, 2022)

Our group took a pause for an early evening nightcap at this outdoor lounge in Riga’s charming Old Town. The warm day turned into a cooler and beautiful evening. (Aug. 2, 2022)

My bubbly and thirst-quenching evening cocktail was this Lemon Cooler. It was made with Prosecco, limoncello and floating raspberries. (Aug. 2, 2022)

Our second day in Riga, which is a beautiful city with a lot to see and do, was our free day to do whatever we wanted. I began the day with three travelers from my Intrepid group, Laura, Sara and Nina which was fun. We ventured to the Riga Central Market, the Latvian Riflemen Square and then just a few steps away to the Town Hall Square where some of us went to see the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia and also the House of the Black Heads just next door.

The House of the Blackheads was for me a fascinating look at how a medieval guild of unmarried merchants, shipowners, and foreigners, pretty much white men, chose to use the images of black men as decoration and one in particular as their coat of arms. That story gets its own post, so don’t forget to check it out too.

After lunch we went our separate ways so I wandered over to the Riga Art Nouveau Center, a museum, at the corner of Alberta and Elizabetes Streets where a number of stunning Art Nouveau buildings reside. What I learned from this journey is that Riga is home to a very high concentration of Art Nouveau buildings in the world. And, something else, I realized is that I really like the Art Nouveau style. So, that story will get its own post too so don’t forget to check it out.

In the meantime, here’s more of Riga.

Our first stop of the morning was a walk around the Riga Central Market. It was planned from 1922 and built from 1924 to 1930. The main structures of the market are five pavilions constructed by reusing old German Zeppelin hangars and incorporating Neoclassicism and Art Deco styles. This is actually a UNESCO World Heritage Site list together with Old Riga in 1998. (Aug. 3, 2022)

Inside one of the Riga Central Market’s pavilions. (Aug. 3, 2022)

This 1905 Revolution memorial is a bronze monument depicting a man taking a flag from his fallen comrade. The monument is located by the Iron Railway Bridge at the embankment of River Daugava. (Aug. 3, 2022)

To the right is the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia and to the left is the Latvian Rifleman, a Soviet-era monument at the Latvian Riflemen Square in Riga.
A description of the museum: “This is a story about the Latvian nation and Latvian state that it founded, fought for and built on its ancestral land as the German and Russian empires collapsed at the end of the First World War.
This is a story of the conspiracy between Communist Soviet Union and Nazi Germany and the three occupations that dismantled the Latvian state, defiled the land, and, within half a century, brought the nation to the brink of extinction.
This is a story about oppression, terror and violence; about defiance, resistance and heroism; but also -about helplessness fear and betrayal.
Above all, however, this is a story of the stamina and spiritual strength that allowed the Latvian nation to renew the Latvian state and to re-join the world community of independent countries.” (Aug. 3, 2022)

Another view of the exterior of the the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia in Riga as seen from the Town Hall Square in Old Town Riga with a partial view of the House of the Black Heads to the left. The museum (to the left) was built by the Soviets in 1971 to celebrate what would have been the 100th birthday of Lenin. However until 1991, it served as a museum commemorating the Red Latvian Riflemen. (Aug. 2, 2022)

The Latvian Riflemen in the center of Old Town Riga in the Latvian Riflemen Square is a Soviet-era monument. The Riflemen were originally a military formation of the Imperial Russian Army assembled around 1915 in Latvia in order to defend Baltic territories against the Germans in World War I. Initially, the battalions were formed by volunteers, and from 1916 by conscription among the Latvian population. A total of about 40,000 troops were drafted into the Latvian Riflemen Division. They were used as an elite force in the Imperial and Bolshevik armies.
These controversial red granite statues was originally dedicated to the Latvian Red Riflemen, some of whom became Lenin’s personal bodyguards. Some view the monument as a symbol of the old communist system and would love to tear them down. Others believe it’s a necessary tribute to Latvians who fought in the early years of WWI. It now honours all Latvian riflemen, both Whites and Reds. Politics aside, it’s an impressive monument. (Aug. 3, 2022)

This graphic inside the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia, in the Town Hall Square of Old Town Riga, displays when the Baltic Countries of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, fell under the domination of the Soviet Union rule.
In September 1939 the Soviet Union pressures the Baltic States to allow the stationing of Soviet troops on their territories. Unwillingly Estonia signs the treaty on Sept. 28, 1939 , but Latvia doesn’t sign until Oct. 5 and Lithuania until Oct. 10. (Aug. 3, 2022)

A photo of the Baltic Way or the Baltic Chain or even the Chain of Freedom inside the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia in Riga. This was a peaceful political demonstration that occurred on Aug. 23, 1989 connecting some two million people who joined hands in song spanning across some 430 miles (690 kilometers) across the three Baltic capitals of Vilnius, Riga and Tallinn. At the time, Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia were occupied and annexed by the USSR, which is why, after almost 50 years, the largest demonstration movement was held to regain their freedom.
On Sept. 6, 1991, the Soviet government finally recognized the independence of all three Baltic states. It was followed by a complete withdrawal of Russian troops. The Lithuania withdrawal was completed Aug. 31, 1993, followed by Estonia and Latvia a year later. (Aug. 3, 2022)

Inside the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia are these strong-colored neon lights for the different exhibitions rooms from the Gulag and special settlement camps (blue) to the Soviet rule in Latvia (red). The colors made it a little difficult to read all the documentation and as much as I love the color red, the combination of photos and stories with the red made me very uncomfortable and I felt trapped. (Aug. 3, 2022)

This tile with its symbolic footprints in front of the Freedom Monument in Riga commemorates the “Baltic Way”, otherwise known as the “Chain of Freedom”. This human chain involved two million people and stretched across Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania in peaceful protest against the Soviet Union in 1989. And a year later, Latvia finally got its wish, independence. (Aug. 3, 2022)

Views from a window inside the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia in Riga. The museum (to the left) was built by the Soviets in 1971 to celebrate what would have been the 100th birthday of Lenin. However until 1991, it served as a museum commemorating the Red Latvian Riflemen.
And, to the right, is the House of the Black Heads. (Aug. 3, 2022)

I spent most of the morning and lunch with these fabulous women during our free day in Riga Latvia. Sara, Nina, me and Laura in front of the House of the Black Heads. (Aug. 3, 2022)

Thank you Laura for this very candid photo of me trying to not get wet after I put my Advocare Rehydrate powder into a bottle of sparkling or carbonated water, thinking I was spring or plain water. We found a small Lido’s Restaurant in Riga’s Old Town area where the four of us (Laura, Rita, Sara and me) could all get what we wanted from the varied buffet before going our separate ways. (Aug. 3, 2022)

A Day in Sigulda, Latvia

It was a full day trip from Riga to explore the great outdoors of the Gauja National Park in Sigulda, Latvia. That exploration included taking the Gauja River Cable Car ride, walking to the Gutmanis Cave and hiking up the 256 wooden steps to walk to the Turaida Castle.

Here’s our day trip from Riga to Sigulda, Latvia.

For our day trip to Sigulda, from Riga, we took the 9:20 a.m. local bus to arrive in Sigulda just about an hour later. (Aug. 4, 2022)

The very nice bus station in Sigulda, Latvia, where we walked to the Gauja River Cable Car ride over the Gauja River in the Gauja National Park. (Aug. 4, 2022)

One of several neat sculptures during our walk to the Gauja River Cable Car ride over the Gauja River in the Gauja National Park in Sigulda, Latvia. (Aug. 4, 2022)

Making our way to the Gauja River Cable Car inside the Gauja National Park for some beautiful views over the Gauja river and valley in Sigulda, Latvia. (Aug. 4, 2022)

Views of the Gauja bridge and valley from the Gauja River Cable Car in Sigulda. The cable car connects both sides of the river Gauja which is the only large river of Latvia that begins and ends its flow in Latvia. (Aug. 4, 2022)

After our Gauja River Cable Car ride, we began our walk through the Gauja National Park forest to the Gutmanis Cave. (Aug. 4, 2022)

Walking through the Gauja National Park forest to the Gutmanis Cave. That’s Laura, Garry and Sara behind me. (Aug. 4, 2022)

Me at the Gutmanis Cave located in the Sigulda region of the Gauja National Park and said to be the largest cave in the Baltics. The cave, as you can see from my selfie, still bears inscriptions from as early as the 17th century. From here, we climbed up the 256 wooden steps to walk to the Turaida Museum Reserve dominated by the Turaida Castle and some pretty gorgeous contemporary statues. (Aug 4, 2022)

The exterior and entrance of the Gutmanis Cave located in the Sigulda region of the Gauja National Park and said to be the largest cave in the Baltics. (Aug. 4, 2022)

My Baltics Intrepid Travel group of solo travelers at the Gutmanis Cave located in the Sigulda region of the Gauja National Park. From left: Laura, Gundega (our Intrepid leader), Fred, me, Nina, Garry, Brenda and Sara. (Aug. 4, 2022)

A close-up of the inscriptions left by travelers from as early as 1667 inside the Gutmanis Cave located in the Sigulda region of the Gauja National Park. A legend states that a long time ago there was a good man who lived in the cave and used the spring water to heal people. The word ‘Gutmann’ in German means good man. (Aug. 4, 2022)

Now to take the 256 stairs, yes, I counted them, from the Gutmanis Cave to the Turaida Museum Reserve to see the Turaida Castle in the Gauja National Park. That’s pretty much the whole group ahead of me, which was great, because I took my time getting up those steps. (Aug. 4, 2022)

The wooden staircase, of 256 steps, up from the Gutmanis Cave through the Gauja National Park forest to the Turaida Museum Reserve and a visit to the Turaida Castle. (Aug. 4, 2022)

A big Thank you to Laura who lent me her wonderful emotional support up the 256 steps from the Gutmanis Cave through the Gauja National Park forest. We did it! (Aug. 4, 2022)

Walking through the Gauja National Park forest to the Turaida Museum Reserve to see the Turaida Castle. (Aug. 4, 2022)

The Turaida Castle dominates the Turaida Museum Reserve in the Gauja National Park. The reconstructed medieval stone castle had its beginnings in the early 1200s. It was once a residence of governors, a domicile of district administrators and a military fortification. (Aug. 4, 2022)

The reconstructed medieval stone Turaida Castle of the Turaida Museum Reserve in Latvia’s Gauja National Park. (Aug. 4, 2022)

The Folk Song Hill inside the Turaida Museum Reserve is a sculpture garden that opened to the public on July 7, 1985 in honour of the 150th anniversary of the birth of the Latvian writer and folklorist Krišjānis Barons (1835-1923). He collected thousands of Latvian folk songs, known as dainu and published them. And, 26 sculptures, by Latvian sculptor Indulis Ojārs Ranka (1934-2017) that reflect and represent the characters and aspects of Latvian folk songs in stone. (Aug. 4, 2022)

This sculpture, “Father of Song” by Latvian sculptor Indulis Ojārs Ranka at the Folk Song Hill inside the Turaida Museum Reserve, “symbolizes the memory of the people, their wisdom about life, and their preservation and transfer from generation to generation of Latvian folk songs. On this side of the sculpture is this image of a respected old man who protected songs and made up new ones: “A song for him, a song for her for a piece of bread.” On the other side are singers of three generations who are familiar with the songs. Beside them is a defender – a powerful young man.
(This man is said to be Latvian writer and folklorist Krišjānis Barons (1835-1923) who collected thousands of Latvian folk songs and had them published,) (Aug. 4, 2022)

It was such a full and hot day, the only thing I wanted to do once we returned back to our wonderful Avalon Hotel in Riga, was to eat and drink or should I say drink, eat and drink. And the hotel had a bar and a restaurant so I plopped myself up by the bar and had a wonderful dinner starting with this chicken soup. Wasn’t much chicken but the veggies and the broth were good. (Aug. 4, 2022)

My main course for my dinner at the Avalon Hotel in Riga was this chicken breast with white wine sauce and fries. (Aug. 4, 2022)

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1

Laura weber on August 10, 2024 at 5:42 pm

Just found your blog and I love it. I wish I had found it before my travel to Riga but the information you gave us helped me understand a lot more
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  Diana Petterson on September 5, 2024 at 2:05 pm
  
  Hi Laura! I’m so glad you found my blog and that it was helpful. I’m always adding to it from my travels so please come back anytime.