Back in Turkey: Delighting in Istanbul with Friends

I am in the ancient, modern, Muslim, culturally diverse and only city in the world to straddle the continents of both Europe and Asia. It may not be the capital of Turkey, but Istanbul is most definitely its largest, highest populated and most vibrant city.

Although I’ve been in Istanbul since Sunday, between walking on the Camino Portuguese and my long days of walking in Istanbul, the need to rest was rather overwhelming. But now, it’s time to share some of the sites, history and culture of this more than 5,000-year-old city, formerly known as Constantinople and prior to that, the ancient city of Byzantium.

I’ve been to Istanbul before, exactly seven years ago when I took the Rick Steves 13 Days of Turkey tour. On that tour, we spent a couple of days in Istanbul. But spending a couple of days in Istanbul is not enough. It’s a cursory view of a city whose ancient roots are deep and long. So spending a week traversing the city was a necessary immersion.

I’m traveling with a small group of friends and we hired a private guide. Seven years ago, Alice and I met on that Rick Steves Turkey tour, along with her classmate Tammy. The three of us, along with another couple, if I remember correctly, also did the Rick Steves Greece tour, which is where we met and I roomed with Rosie. Alice and I have traveled together previously and so has her husband John, who is also a part of our small Istanbul tour group. And, the best person to show us her Istanbul was the wonderful Rick Steves guide from seven years ago, Yaren Türkoglu. It turned out that Yaren’s Rick Steves guiding commitment was at the same time as our trip here, but Yaren did not hesitate to put together an incredible and full itinerary while also hooking us up with a charming, knowledgeable and capable guide…Yasemin Gürer.

I arrived Sunday afternoon after spending the night in Frankfurt because that was the only flight I could get from Santiago de Compostela to Istanbul. I had a more than 10-hour layover in Frankfurt so I got a room at a nearby hotel and had a good night’s sleep before taking my close to 3-hour flight to Istanbul arriving in enough time to check into my home for the next seven nights, the Hotel Empress Zoe and meet up with my travel friends for an introduction walk with some not-so typical views of ancient Istanbul. Check it out!

Our first group selfie along Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa or better yet, Umbrella Street in the Beyoğlu area of a very contemporary look at Istanbul. Alice, our guide Yasemin, Rosie, John and me. (May 1, 2022)

Umbrella Street in the Beyoğlu area of Istanbul. (May 1, 2022)

Views of Istanbul during our introdution walk. (May 1, 2022)

If you think that finding enough things to see and do for a week in Istanbul is a problem, you would be so incredibly wrong. Istanbul is jam-packed with so much history and modernity that living here would probably be the only way to discover its complete grandeur. But I have no doubt that if the remainder of our stay is as packed as this first full day, we will at least make a tiny dent in this ancient city’s layers.

Today included the Hippodrome, now the Sultanahmet Square; Hagia Sophia Mosque; a break for some tasty Turkish Baklava; a view of the Sphendon Wall; the Little Hagia Sophia Mosque; the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts and last but not least to end our day of exploring, the Şerefiye Cistern. Then, dinner with my friends and travel companions.

Let’s embark on peeling back the wonders of Istanbul. There’s just so much to see.

At the Sultanahmet Park with the beautiful tulips during a very busy time for Istanbul, the Bayram, or in English, “Feast of the Sacrifice” is a special holiday in Turkey but is celebrated by Muslims across the globe. Here we are during our first full day of seeing Istanbul together, from left, John, Alice, me and Rosie. (May 2, 2022)

The locals call this area Horse Square. But it is also known as Sultanahmet Square and the former Hippodrome of Constantinople where the chariot racings once took place. Emperor Constantine had established Constantinople as the new capital of Rome and in so doing, brought some of the monuments, including this column and the others at the Hippodrome to celebrate and decorate the new city. (May 2, 2022)

The Obelisk of Theodosius, at the former Hippodrome of Constantinople, is an ancient Egyptian obelisk with a varied history before making its way to the former Constantinople, now Istanbul. The obelisk’s history, which dates back to around 1450 BC, is clearly inscribed with distinguishable Egyptian hieroglyph script. Initially erected in Egypt, it was re-erected in Constantinople, now Istanbul, by the Roman emperor Theodosius I in 390 AD. (May 2, 2022)

The marble pedestal base of the Obelisk of Theodosius, at the former Hippodrome of Constantinople, shows various scenes along its four sides. This side, the south face, shows the emperor Theodosius and his court. (May 2, 2022)

The Metropolitan Municipality of Istanbul has started a restoration work of the 2500-year-old bronze Serpentine Column at the former Hippodrome of Constantinople, now Sultanahmet Square in Istanbul. It is part of an ancient Greek sacrificial tripod, originally in Delphi and relocated to Constantinople by Constantine the Great in 324 and erected in the Hippodrome. This bronze monument once consisted of three snake heads, now missing except for one piece, branching out from the top of the intertwined snakes twisting around each other to form the remaining column shaft. (May 2, 2022)

The Walled Obelisk or Masonry Obelisk is a Roman monument at the southern end of the former Hippodrome of Constantinople, now Sultanahmet Square in Istanbul along with the Obelisk of Theodosius and the Serpentine Column. The Walled Obelisk is one of three remaining monuments of the Hippodrome of Constantinople. It stands at one end of the Hippodrome with the Serpentine Column in the Middle and the Obelisk of Theodosius at the other end. (May 2, 2022)

Also on the northern end of the Hippodrome of Constantinople, now Sultanahmet Square, is the German Fountain constructed to commemorate the second anniversary of German Emperor Wilhelm II’s visit to Istanbul in 1898. (May 2, 2022)

A close-up of the gazebo-styled German Fountain at the northern end of the Hippodrome of Constantinople, now Sultanahmet Square. (May 2, 2022)

The Hagia Sophia Mosque from the Sultanahmet Park in Istanbul. The lovely tulip-filled park, crowded with people and food stalls, is located between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia with a large fountain in the middle of it. (May 2, 2022)

The large fountain at Sultanahmet Park between the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia Mosque in Istanbul. In the distance is the Blue Mosque, known by its official Ottoman-era imperial name, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque. It is a functioning mosque that attracts a large numbers of visitors but at present is being renovated. It was constructed between 1609 and 1616 during the rule of Ahmed I. (May 2, 2022)

The large fountain at Sultanahmet Park between the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia Mosque in Istanbul. The fountain exterior is encircled with various mosaics including this one of whirling dervishes, a form of physically active meditation originating with certain Sufi groups. (May 2, 2022)

The Hagia Sophia, officially known as the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque and formerly as the Catholic Church of Holy Wisdom, was built by the Roman Emperor Justinian between 532-537 as the main cathedral church of the Roman Empire then coverted into the imperial mosque of the Ottoman Empire after the Ottoman conquest of the city in 1453. The minarets were added in the 15th–16th centuries when it became a mosque. The Sultanahmet Park is located between the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. (May 2, 2022)

Before entering the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, male worshippers perform the washing ritual, usually in the courtyard Fountain or Şadırvan for ritual ablutions, before entering the mosque and praying. (May 2, 2022)

Exterior entrance into the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

The entrance into the interior gallery of the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

The Imperial Gate of the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque’s interior gallery was used only by the emperors when entering the mosque. As you can see, the mosque contains both Christian and Islamic elements. (May 2, 2022)

The mosaic above the Imperial Gate of the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque shows Christ Pantocrator, seated on a jewelled throne, giving his blessing and holding an open book. (May 2 2022)

The inner gallery of the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

The mosaic ceiling of the inner gallery of the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

The domes inside the Hagia Sophia. Grand Mosque in Istanbul. The upper levels contain a number of beautiful Christian mosaics but that area is closed off now that Hagia Sophia is a mosque again instead of a museum as it had been. (May 2, 2022)

The four, six-winged angel figures in the dome corners of the Hagia Sophia mosque in Istanbul,are believed to guard heaven.
According to religious belief, these so-called “Seraphim Angels,” were
constructed somewhere between 900-500 A.D. (May 2, 2022)

A close-up of one of the four, six-winged angel figures in the dome corners of the Hagia Sophia mosque in Istanbul. The angels are believed to guard heaven.According to religious belief, these so-called “Seraphim Angels,” were
constructed somewhere between 900-500 A.D. (May 2, 2022)

Inside the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

My little travel group and our guide inside the crowded and beautiful Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. From left John, me, Alice, Rosie and our guide, Yasemin. (May 2, 2022)

The southwestern entrance of the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque with its Christian mosaic of the Virgin Mary and Christ Child on her lap. To the left of her is the emperor Constantine and to the right of her is emperor Justinian I. (May 2, 2022)

The southwestern entrance of the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque with its Christian mosaic of the Virgin Mary sitting on a throne without a back and embellished with precious stones. The Christ Child sits on his mother’s lap, giving his blessing and holding a scroll in his left hand. On her left side stands emperor Constantine in ceremonial attire, presenting a model of the city to Mary. On her right side stands emperor Justinian I, offering a model of the Hagia Sophia. (May 2, 2022)

We took a little afternoon break at the Hafiz Mustafa Confectionaries where Turkish baklava of all variety reigns supreme. Baklava has always been amongst the most important desserts of the Ottoman palaces of that period. Traditional baklava is a layered pastry dessert made of filo pastry, filled with chopped nuts and sweetened with syrup or honey. (May 2, 2022)

The Sphendone is the only remaining built section of the Hippodrome. This remaining wall hints at how monumental was the size of the arena. The level of galleries that once topped this section were damaged during the Fourth Crusade and totally dismantled in the Ottoman period – many of the original columns were used in construction of the Süleymaniye Mosque. (May 2, 2022)

The Little Hagia Sophia Mosque was built between 527 and 536 under the name of Hagia Sergios and Bachos Church by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I and his wife Theodora. It was converted into a mosque in 1497. (May 2, 2022)

The entrance gate to the Little Hagia Sophia Mosque which was built between 527 and 536 under the name of Hagia Sergios and Bachos Church by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I and his wife Theodora. It was converted into a mosque in 1497. (May 2, 2022)

Entering the gate of the Little Hagia Sophia Mosque in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

The gated entrance to the Little Hagia Sophia Mosque in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

The Little Hagia Sophia Mosque in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

The mosque entrance of the Little Hagia Sophia Mosque in Istanbul. Women must cover their heads and everyone must take off their shoes to enter the mosque. (May 2, 2022)

The interior of the Little Hagia Sophia Mosque in Istanbul. The church has an octagonal main dome and there are no frescos or mosaics in the church. (May 2, 2022)

The dome of the Little Hagia Sophia Mosque in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

The carved rim and the top of the column inside the Little Hagia Sophia Mosque in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

The former Ibrahim Pasha Palace is now now the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts in Istanbul. The palace stands on the layers of the historical Hippodrome which dates back to the Roman times.
A most significant work of 16th century Ottoman civil architecture, Ibrahim Pasha Palace is named after the second vizier of Suleiman the Magnificent, argali Ibrahim Pasha. Historical documents also refer to it as the Hippodrome Palace, the Military Bandhouse Mansion, Royal Tent Keepers’ Mansion or the Tents Mansion. The palace changed owners several times following the execution of Ibrahim Pasha in 1536. The palace has been home to the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts since 1983. (May 2, 2022)

The Sacred Relics once owned by the Prophet Mohammad and family are in a part of this exhibit at the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

The footprint of the Prophet Muhammad at the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

An array of carpets were on display at the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts in Istanbul. The art of Turkish Carpets that started with the Seljuks in Anatolia, Turkey, in the 13th century was further developed in the 15 century, flourishing especially in the 16th century. Certain types of carpet exported to the West have become known by the names of European painters who often portrayed them. (May 2, 2022)

Beautiful calligraphy books were also on display at the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

The art of calligraphy exhibit at the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts in Istanbul. After the 10th century, the existences of the calligraphy ateliers were the biggest proof of this. The cities such as Herat, Shiraz, Samarkand, Tabriz, Kazvin, Isfahan and Meshed located in the borders of Iran and Iraq today, were the centers of the art of calligraphy and many works were produced in all branches of writing in the calligraphy ateliers found in these cities.
During the Ottoman Empire, especially with the conquest of Istanbul, many artists from Islamic countries, were invited to the palace and started to produce works under the patronage of the palace. (May 2, 2022)

An early 14th century carved wooden window shutter at the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

A 19th century wedding dress and shoes at the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

A cobblestoned walkway in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

Me inside the Serefiye “Theodosius” Cistern which was built between 428-443 by Byzantine Emperor Theodosius II to provide enough water to the people of Constantinople in case of enemy raids. (May 2, 2022)

Inside the Şerefiye Cistern, one of the oldest water structures in the Historic Peninsula of Istanbul dating back almost 1,600 years ago and built during the reign of Theodosius II (408 – 450). Today it features a 10-minute light show. (May 2, 2022)

A light show inside the Şerefiye Cistern. (May 2, 2022)

The inside of the 1600-year-old Şerefiye Cistern in Istanbul where a pretty cool light show is held. (May 2, 2022)

Rosie and I waiting on our dinner at a restaurant close to where we are staying in Istanbul. Rosie and I first met seven years ago during the Rick Steves Greece tour. That splint on my finger is because I decided to try to pick up my backpack with just my index finger. Not a very smart move, but thankfully, even though I heard a snap, I did not break the finger. (May 2, 2022)

John and Alice sitting across from Rosie and me at dinner after our first full day of touring in Istanbul. I met Alice seven years ago on the Rick Steves Turkey tour, along with Tammy and Alice, and we’ve traveled together in the past. (May 2, 2022)

A little food candy, my very basic, meat, potatoes and veggies for dinner. (May 2, 2022)

And, Tuesday was another full day that included the Suleymaniye Mosque along with the tomb of Suleiman the Magnificent and a view of the city. We then spent the afternoon at the Topkapi Palace, managed on the tram system and did quite a bit of walking.

It continues to be a busy week in Turkey’s cultural, historic and economic hub of Istanbul, formerly known as Constantinople.

Last Tuesday’s tour included the Suleymaniye Mosque including tombs of Suleiman the Magnificent and a view of the Golden Horn and city. It did rain in the afternoon while we were at the Topkapi Palace and I found myself dragging a lot towards the end of the day. There’s still so much to see and do.

Let’s visit a stunning mosque and a historical palace, now a museum, in Istanbul.

Me at the Suleymaniye Mosque and Social Complex with a view overlooking Istanbul. The mosque was built on one of Istanbul’s seven beautiful hillsides. (May 3, 2022)

Experiencing the very popular tram system in Istanbul as we make our way to the Suleymaniye Mosque and Social Complex. (May 3, 2022)

The Suleymaniye Mosque and Social Complex in Istanbul. The mosque was commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent and designed by the imperial architect Mimar Sinan. An inscription specifies the foundation date as 1550 and the inauguration date as 1557. Suleiman I, the longest-reigning Sultan of the Ottoman Empire, was commonly known as Suleiman the Magnificent in the West and Suleiman the Lawgiver in his realm. (May 3, 2022)

The inner courtyard and entrance into the Suleymaniye Mosque. (May 3, 2022)

The entrance into the Suleymaniye Mosque. (May 3, 2022)

Inside the Suleymaniye Mosque commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent and designed by the imperial architect Mimar Sinan. It was completed in 1557. (May 3, 2022)

The dome inside the Suleymaniye Mosque commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent and designed by the imperial architect Mimar Sinan. It was completed in 1557. (May 3, 2022)

A close-up of the dome inside the Suleymaniye Mosque commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent and designed by the imperial architect Mimar Sinan. It was completed in 1557. (May 3, 2022)

The mausoleums of Suleiman the Magnificent (right) and of Hurrem Sultan (Roxelana), his wife, (left) at the Suleymaniye Mosque and Social Complex in Istanbul. (May 3, 2022)

nside the mausoleum of Suleiman the Magnificent (1494–1566) at the Suleymaniye Mosque and Social Complex. His tomb is the second one from the right, next to the small tomb of his favorite daughter, Mihrimah Sultan (1522–1578). (May 3, 2022)

A close-up of the tomb of Suleiman the Magnificent inside of his mausoleum at the Suleymaniye Mosque and Social Complex. (May 3, 2022)

The mausoleum of Hürrem Sultan, the wife of Suleiman the Magnificent, at the Suleymaniye Mosque and Social Complex. (May 3, 2022)

Hürrem Sultan (c. 1502–1558), Suleiman’s wife of Suleiman the Magnificent, at the Suleymaniye Mosque and Social Complex. (May 3, 2022)

Dignitaries grave markers buried close to Suleiman the Magnificent’ mausoleum at the Suleymaniye Mosque and Social Complex. (May 3, 2022)

The Gate of Salutation is the second courtyard entrance into the Topkapı Palace which was was ordered to be constructed by Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror, beginning in 1459 and lasting six years after the conquest of Constantinople. Topkapi, served as the main residence and administrative headquarters of the Ottoman sultans during the 15th and 16th centuries, is now a large museum in the east of the Fatih district of Istanbul. (May 3, 2022)

The entrance of the Imperial Council inside the Topkapi Palace are where Ottoman Sultans met with their imperial councils to conduct affairs of state. The Ottoman Empire was run from here. (May 3, 2022)

Inside the Imperial Council of the Topkapi Palace. (May 3, 2022)

Inside the Harem or basically the residence of the imperial family at the Topkapi Palace with the entrance into the Eunuch’s courtyard. The Imperial Harem, of the Ottoman Empire, was composed of the Queen Mother (the Sultan’s mother, who basically oversaw the Harem) the Sultan’s wives, children, female servants and his concubines. (May 3, 2022)

The Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs at the Topkapi Palace. For more than 300 years, a cadre of African eunuchs were responsible for guarding the Ottoman Harem. The eunuchs, castrated slaves imported from Africa, became a key part of court politics and the Sultan’s inner court. The chief Black Eunuch, appointed personally by the Sultan, had both the ear of the leader of a vast Islamic Empire, and power over a network of spies and informers, including eunuchs and slaves throughout Constantinople and beyond. (May 3, 2022)

The Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs at the Topkapi Palace. (May 3, 2022)

The Courtyard of the Concubines at the Topkapi Palace the Ottoman tradition relied on slave concubines, along with legal marriage for reproduction. Slave concubines, unlike wives, had no recognized lineage. (May 3, 2022)

The Imperial Hall inside the Topkapi Palace with the throne of the sultan was built in the 1580s during the reign of Murad III. Also known as the Throne Room, this was where receptions and ceremonies were held as well as entertainment acts for the Sultan and residents of the Harem. (May 3, 2022)

And on Wednesday, we visited the luscious and ecclectic Dolmabahce Palace; indulged in a chocolate snack; had a private yacht ride along the Bosphorus; a delicious lunch of meatballs and potatoes and a walk along the Asia side of Istanbul in Kadıköy.

Come! Istanbul awaits!

Me and my Istanbul travel posse getting in a group selfie at the Gate of the Sultan at the Dolmabahçe Palace. That’s Rosie, Alice, John, me and our wonderful guide, Yasemin. (May 4, 2022)

The Gate of the Sultan at the Dolmabahçe Palace. (May 4, 2022)

The exterior entrance to the Dolmabahçe Palace on the European coast of the Bosporus strait. (May 4, 2022)

The exterior entrance to the Dolmabahçe Palace on the European coast of the Bosporus strait. It served as the main administrative center of the Ottoman Empire from 1856 to 1887 and from 1909 to 1922. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founding father of the Republic of Turkey, who served as its first president from 1923 until his death in 1938, spent the last days of his life in the palace as his health deteriorated. He died at 9:05 A.M. on November 10, 1938. (May 4, 2022)

The Gate to the Bosporus of the Dolmabahçe Palace on the European coast of the Bosporus strait. (May 4, 2022)

The garden, fountain and interior facade of the Gate of the Treasury at the Dolmabahçe Palace. (May 4, 2022)

The enormous Ceremonial Hall with its high dome and crystal chandelier at the Dolmabahçe Palace. The Bohemian crystal chandelier, which has 750 lamps and weighs 4.5 tons, is considered as the world’s largest. Unfortunately this was the only photo I was able to take because photos were not allowed inside the palace. But one important note, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founding father of the Republic of Turkey, who served as its first president from 1923 until his death in 1938, spent the last days of his life in the palace as his health deteriorated. He died at 9:05 A.M. on November 10, 1938. (May 4, 2022)

A chocolate moose cake with pistachios became my afternoon snack before our on our private boat cruising the Bosphorus. (May 4, 2022)

Our very cool-looking private yacht to cruise along the Bosphorus which forms part of the continental boundary between Istanbul’s Asia and Europe sides. The Bosporus also connects the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara, and, by extension the Dardanelles, the Aegean and Mediterranean seas. (May 4, 2022)

The Dolmabahçe Mosque, close to the Dolmabahçe Palace on the Europe side of Istanbul from the Bosphorus. The baroque mosque was commissioned by queen mother Bezmi Alem Valide Sultan and designed by the Turkish Armenian architect, Garabet Balyan in 1855. (May 4, 2022)

A view of the Dolmabahçe Palace, on the Europe side of Istanbul, from the Bosphorus. (May 4, 2022)

Views along the Europe side of Istanbul along the Bosphorus. (May 4, 2022)

On the top deck of our yacht as we cruised along the Bosphorus, but it was rather cold and windy so we stuck around as long as we could before heading below deck to a covered space. That’s John, Yasemin, Rosie and Alice. (May 4, 2022)

This medieval fortress along the banks of the Bosphorus on the Europe side of Istanbul seems to have several different names. The Rumelian Castle seems to be the most common one. It was built between 1451 and 1452 on the orders of Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II in preparation for a planned Ottoman siege on the then-Byzantine city of Constantinople. (May 4, 2022)

Views along the Europe side of Istanbul along the Bosphorus along with the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge. (May 4, 2022)

My selfie on board our private yacht ride along the Bosphorus with views along the Europe side of Istanbul and part of the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge in the background. (May 4, 2022)

Views of the Asia side of Istanbul from the Bosphorus with the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge. (May 4, 2022)

Views of the Asia side of Istanbul from the Bosphorus. (May 4, 2022)

Our little tour group with our private guide, Yasemin, me, Rosie, Alice and John aboard our private yacht cruise along the Bosphorus in Istanbul. (May 4, 2022)

Saying good-bye to our private yacht after disembarking on the Asia side of Istanbul to Kadıköy. (May 4, 2022)

The masses moving towards the Üsküdar pier in Kadıköy to board the ferry. (May 4, 2022)

The Üsküdar Mihrimah Sultan Mosque in Kadıköy was commissioned by Mihrimah Sultan, the daughter of Suleiman the Magnificent, according to Arabic in-scription on the main door of the mosque. And, it was designed by Mimar Sinan, the chief Ottoman architect and civil engineer for Suleiman the Magnificent and other sultans. (May 4, 2022)

Some of the different veggies in the vegetable section at the Kanaat Lokantasi restaurant in Kadıköy, located on the Asia side of Istanbul. (May 4, 2022)

The chefs and the varied meat selections at the Kanaat Lokantasi restaurant in Kadıköy, located on the Asia side of Istanbul. (May 4, 2022)

The varied meat selections at the Kanaat Lokantasi restaurant in Kadıköy, located on the Asia side of Istanbul. (May 4, 2022)

Yasemin, our wonderful guide, chatting with the chef about the varied meat selections at the Kanaat Lokantasi restaurant in Kadıköy, located on the Asia side of Istanbul. (May 4, 2022)

Waiting on our food inside the Kanaat Lokantasi restaurant in Kadıköy, located on the Asia side of Istanbul. (May 4, 2022)

I chose the meatballs and potatoes at the Kanaat Lokantasi restaurant in Kadıköy, located on the Asia side of Istanbul. (May 4, 2022)

After lunch, we walked around Kadıköy, located on the Asia side of Istanbul. (May 4, 2022)

Walking around Kadıköy, located on the Asia side of Istanbul. (May 4, 2022)

Walking around Kadıköy, located on the Asia side of Istanbul. This Fighting Bull Sculpture was quite the attention grabber. The bronze bull is part of a sculpture collection of 24 animals around 1864 t the request of Sultan Abdulaziz. (May 4, 2022)

The street market in Kadıköy, one of the oldest and most historic districts of Istanbul’s Asia side. (May 4, 2022)

A plethora of olives at the street market in Kadıköy, one of the oldest and most historic districts of Istanbul’s Asia side. (May 4, 2022)

Pickled vegetable and fruit jars along the street market in Kadıköy, one of the oldest and most historic districts of Istanbul’s Asia side. (May 4, 2022)

Nuts, seasonings and pickled vegetable and fruit jars along the street market in Kadıköy, one of the oldest and most historic districts of Istanbul. (May 4, 2022)

The Atatürk Monument in Kadıköy showing him as a Head Teacher teaching children the alphabet. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938) was the founding father of the Republic of Turkey and served as its first president from 1923 until his death in 1938. There are statues, photos and posters of him around Istanbul. (May 4, 2022)

Back to the pier in Kadıköy, on the Asia side of Istanbul, to take the ferry back to the Europe side of Istanbul. (May 4, 2022)

On the ferry from Kadıköy, on the Asia side of Istanbul, as we make our way back to the Europe side of Istanbul along the Bosphorus. (May 4, 2022)

Leaving the ferry and arriving back to the Europe side of Istanbul. (May 4, 2022)

From the ferry we wanted to take the tram back to Sultanahmet Square, around where our hotels are located. But it was just too crowded to even get on the tram so we decided to take our time and just walk back. This turned out to be a 15,000 steps day averaging about 6.2 miles. (May 4, 2022)

Back at my hotel in the Fatih neighborhood of Istanbul, the Hotel Empress Zoe’s sunken lobby and entrance. That spiral staircase is how you get to the first floor of the hotel. (May 4, 2022)

The staircase leading up to my room on the 4th floor of the Hotel Empress Zoe in the Fatih neighborhood of Istanbul. A lovely hotel with no elevator. (May 4, 2022)

My 4th floor landing at the Hotel Empress Zoe in the Fatih neighborhood of Istanbul. (May 4, 2022)

The 4th floor balcony of the Hotel Empress Zoe in the Fatih neighborhood of Istanbul. (May 4, 2022)

The 4th floor balcony attached to my room at the Hotel Empress Zoe in the Fatih neighborhood of Istanbul. (May 4, 2022)

The 4th floor balcony attached to my room at the Hotel Empress Zoe in the Fatih neighborhood of Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

Views of Istanbul from the balcony at my hotel, the Hotel Empress Zoe in the Fatih neighborhood. (May 4, 2022)

Views of my neighborhood in Fatih where my hotel, the Hotel Empress Zoe is located in Istanbul. (May 2, 2022)

Our Thursday outing was an easy day but still heavy on the walking. We covered a lot of ancient history and even some shopping in a historical venue. We began at the Archaeological Museum, had lunch, checked out a traditional rug making shop and visited the humongous Grand Bizarre.

Istanbul, like our guide Yasemin says, has many faces. Let’s go check out some more of those faces today.

My selfie inside the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. It is a shopper’s dream with 22 different gates, 60 streets and almost 4000 shops inside what is considered to be the largest and oldest market in the world. The construction of what would become the Grand Bazaar started around 1455, shortly after the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople. (May 5, 2022)

Heading into the Grand Bazaar thru the Nuruosmaniye Gate, one of 22 different gates to enter. (May 5, 2022)

Inside the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. (May 5, 2022)

One of the four marble drinking fountains inside the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. (May 5, 2022)

Although a number of merchants sell the colorful lanterns, this merchant at the Grand Bazaar sells a more monotone-looking lantern. (May 5, 2022)

One of many ceramic vendors at the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. (May 5, 2022)

A variety of evil eyes at a vendor’s shop in the Grand Bazaar. It symbolizes the jealous and envious look of others, which, according to popular belief, would have the power to cause a person various misfortunes. Turkish people believe this amulet protects its holder from the bad energies by absorbing them. (May 5, 2022)

The Istanbul Archaeology Museums are a group of three museums, Archaeology, Ancient Orient and Islamic Art and is said to house more than one million objects that represent almost all the eras and civilizations in world history. This is the main building. (May 5, 2022)

Although there was quite a lot to see at the Istanbul Archaeology Museums, I’m just including a couple of standout pieces. The marble Alexander Sarcophagus, from around 312-307 BC, of the Royal Necropolis of Sidon in Lebanon. Although the sarcophagus depicts Alexander the Great, it is not his sarcophagus but that of Abdalonymus, the King of Sidon. It’s the action-motion carving that caught my attention.
In ancient times, the prevailing belief was that, after death, man would continue his life in the afterworld. In Greek and Roman civilizations, burial places were seen as homes to be lived in. Sarcophagi were therefore constructed in forms resembling houses, gabled roof-shaped lids and occasionally a depiction of a door on one of their short sides, especially during the Roman Imperial Period. (May 5, 2022)

A close-up of the Alexander Sarcophagus with the carving of Alexander the Great himself at the Istanbul Archaeological Museum. The sarcophagus, which dates from around 312-307 BC, was part of the archaeological findings of the Royal Necropolis of Sidon in Lebanon and shows Alexander, to the left on his horse, fighting the Persians. (May 5, 2022)

A close-up of the marble carved short side of the Alexander Sarcophagus at the the Istanbul Archaeological Museum. Considered a masterpiece, this sarcophagus does not belong to the Macedonian King Alexander the Great, but takes its name from the war scene on the longer side above, portraying him. (May 5, 2022)

The Sarcophagus of the Mourning Women from around 350 BC, of the Royal Necropolis of Sidon (Lebanon) inside the Istanbul Archaeological Museum. Decorated with reliefs of dressed women portrayed between 18 lonic columns in various postures, with sad faces, all in accordance with Greek idealism. There are two different interpretations of the figures. One states that they portray mourning women in general, as represented in Mesopotamia and surrounding cultures. The other asserts that they depict the wives of the tomb owner or his family members. (May 5, 2022)

A close-up of the Sarcophagus of the Mourning Women from around 350 BC, of the Royal Necropolis of Sidon (Lebanon) inside the Istanbul Archaeological Museum. (May 5, 2022)

The large marble bust sculpture of the Greek lyric poetess Sappho, who was from the Greek island of Lesbos and was probably born around 630 BC. Sappho wrote poems that according to some, “clearly celebrate eros between women.” And, supposedly, the word “lesbian” is said to come from the name of the island of Lesbos, where Sappho was born. (May 5, 2022)

Lunch at a small local restaurant close to the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. From left is our guide, Yasemin, me, Rosie, Alice and John. (May 5, 2022)

I love going to these small local restaurants where you can pick out what you want and they just bring it to you. (May 5, 2022)

My mixture of meatballs, potatoes, vegetables and a stuffed green pepper with rice and meat. (May 5, 2022)

Heading into the Vezirhan Carpet & Kilim near the Grand Bazaar to learn about the art of silk, wool and cotton carpet-making and maybe even to purchase a carpet or two. Actually, I ended up not buying a carpet and not because they are not beautiful, because they are, I recently re-decorated my condo and I’m quite satisfied with the way things look. Plus, when I was in Morocco a few years back, I bought a carpet there that I love. (May 5, 2022)

Inside the Vezirhan Carpet & Kilim near the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. (May 5, 2022)

The area where the Vezirhan Carpet & Kilim near the Grand Bazaar was actually founded around 1635 and used during the Ottoman Empire. It was one of the very first Trade Centers of the empire used as a caravanserai, for travelers and merchants along the Silk Road. (May 5, 2022)

Inside the top level of the Vezirhan Carpet & Kilim near the Grand Bazaar. (May 5, 2022)

Demonstrating how to remove the thin hair-like strands of silk from the the cocoons and creating the textile fiber strands needed to weave the carpets at the Vezirhan Carpet & Kilim near the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. (May 5, 2022)

The threads of the carpet, which can be made from wool, silk or cotton, are dyed using vegetable dyes at the Vezirhan Carpet & Kilim near the Grand Bazaar. (May 5, 2022)

A master silk weaver at the Vezirhan Carpet & Kilim near the Grand Bazaar. Silk rugs are created by hand weaving silk fibers, often no thicker than a strand of hair, into intricate patterns. These rugs, even a small one, can take months to create. (May 5, 2022)

The boldness of color simply radiated throughout our very full Friday in Istanbul. It began with the colorful spices, teas, candies and nuts at the Spice Bazaar following us through the day at the Iznik tiles inside the Rüstem Pasha Mosque then onto the eclectic, artistic Balat area and ending with the gorgeous end of day colors in Taksim Square.

As a quilter, I love scrappy quilts. That’s when a quilt block, of the same pattern, dances to its own drumbeat because it’s fabrics are different from the other identical patterned blocks. And when you put these blocks together, you may have the same patterned block, but the varying fabrics creates a vibrant scrappy quilt.

That’s what today felt like for me, the putting together of scrappy blocks of sites with beautiful diverse fabrics to create this colorful jewel of a day in Istanbul. Hope you enjoy this day as much as I did.

Our group photo in Taksim Square by the Republic Monument at the end of a long, bright and colorful day. From left, John, Rosie, Alice, our guide Yasemin and me. (May 6, 2022)

We may have ended our day at Taksim Square but we began it with a trip to the Spice Bazaar, which sells a variety of cooking spices, teas, herbs, Turkish delight, nuts, souvenirs and more. Construction on the Spice Bazaar began in 1597 and was completed in 1664. (May 6, 2022)

The Spice Bazaar in the Fatih neighborhood of Istanbul was completed in 1664 and sells a variety of cooking spices, teas, herbs, Turkish delight, nuts, souvenirs and more. (May 6, 2022)

Spices, teas, nuts and candies on display at the Spice Bazaar in Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

Inside this spice, nuts, Turkish delights and tea store is where our group decided to do a little shopping at the Spice Bazaar. All items are vacuum sealed so they can be transported back to the U.S. (May 6, 2022)

A bevy of teas at the Spice Bazaar. (May 6, 2022)

A plate of Turkish delight at the Spice Bazaar in Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

Me getting in a selfie while walking around outside of the Spice Bazaar in Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

The Rüstem Pasha Mosque, close to the Spice Bazaar, was designed by Ottoman imperial architect Mimar Sinan for the Grand Vizier Rüstem Pasha who was the husband of Mihrimah Sultan, one of the daughters of Suleiman the Magnificent and Hurrem Sultan. Pasha served as Grand Vizier, a role comparable to a European prime minister, in the mid 1500s. (May 6, 2022)

The Rüstem Pasha Mosque was designed by Ottoman imperial architect Mimar Sinan for the Grand Vizier Rüstem Pasha. Sinan’s architecture is known for emphasizing the structure of the buildings over the internal decoration. But what stands out is the beautiful Iznik tiles. (May 6, 2022)

Inside the Rüstem Pasha Mosque with its beautiful Iznik tiles. (May 6, 2022)

The interior of the Rüstem Pasha Mosque covered in the beautiful Iznik tiles. (May 6, 2022)

A close-up of the Iznik tiles inside the Rüstem Pasha Mosque, which marked a substantial deviation of design by Ottoman imperial architect Mimar Sinan, which was a more sparse interior. (May 6, 2022)

A close-up of the Iznik tiles inside the Rüstem Pasha Mosque near the Spice Bazaar. The designs combined traditional Ottoman arabesque patterns with Chinese elements. (May 6, 2022)

A close-up of the Iznik tiles inside the Rüstem Pasha Mosque near the Spice Bazaar. The Iznik tiles were produced from the last quarter of the 15th century until the end of the 17th century in the former Anatolia region which is now modern-day Turkey. (May 6, 2022)

Walking over the Galata Bridge which spans the Golden Horn, an inlet of the Bosphorus. (May 6, 2022)

The men fishing along the Galata Bridge which spans the Golden Horn, an inlet of the Bosphorus. (May 1, 2022)

Taking the small ferry boat to the Fener area of Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

The ferry boats along the the Golden Horn. (May 6, 2022)

Walking around the colorful, artistic and eclectic Balat area of Istanbul. Although often referred to as the ‘Jewish quarter’ of Istanbul, Balat was historically home to a wide variety of ethnicities, cultures and religions. (May 6, 2022)

The Balat area of Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

The colorful and creative Balat area of Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

A flight of colorful stairs supposedly called the Rainbow Stairs in Balat, an area of Istanbul. (Thanks John Hayes for the photo. May 6, 2022)

The colorful homes and businesses in Balat. (May 6, 2022)

The Bulgarian St. Stephen Church, also known as the Bulgarian Iron Church in the Balat area of Istanbul is famous for being made of prefabricated cast iron elements in the neo-Byzantine style. The British, who invented corrugated iron in 1829, manufactured portable iron churches to ship to far-flung colonies like Australia and this St. Stephen’s Church, an experiment with the prefabricated iron churches, is one of a few surviving cast iron churches. After a year and a half, the church was completed in 1898. (May 6, 2022)

The Bulgarian St. Stephen Church, also known as the Bulgarian Iron Church, in the Balat area of Istanbul. The main skeleton of the church was made of steel and covered by metal boards. All the pieces were attached together with nuts, bolts, rivets or welding. In terms of architecture, the church combines Neo-Gothic and Neo-Baroque influences. (May 6, 2022)

The iconostasis inside the Bulgarian St. Stephen Church, also known as the Bulgarian Iron Church in the Balat area of Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

Inside the Bulgarian St. Stephen Church, also known as the Bulgarian Iron Church in the Balat area of Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

Inside of the Bulgarian St. Stephen Church in Istanbul’s Balat area. (May 6, 2022)

A portion of Istanbul’s remaining ancient wall in the Balata area. (May 6, 2022)

The exterior of the Cathedral Church of Saint George in the Fener area of Istanbul. The church has been reconstructed many times and little remains of its original structure. The current church largely dates from 1797 large-scaled restoration work.
In addition to this, the Cathedral Church of Saint George is also widely recognised as being the spiritual leader of the Eastern Orthodox Christians all across the world and has done so in Istanbul, then Constantinople, since the 1600’s.
The Fener and Balat ares are within walking distance of one another. (May 6, 2022)

Inside the Cathedral Church of Saint George in Fener, an area of Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

We have been on several of Istanbul’s transportation sources including this, the Tünel or Tunnel. It is a historic subway funicular line in located at the northern shore of the Golden Horn and has two stations, connecting the quarters of Karaköy and Beyoğlu. The Tünel construction began in 1871 and was completed at the beginning of December 1874 and began transporting people the 17th of January 1875 with a spectacular opening ceremony. Here we are on the Karaköy side going thru the turnstile with our pre-paid Istanbulkart, Istanbul’s Public Transportation Card, that gave us full access to network of transportation sources. (May 6, 2022)

The Tünel’s subway funicular, located at the northern shore of the Golden Horn, arriving at the Karaköy station and connecting us to the Beyoğlu station and area of Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

And, within minutes, The Tünel has brought us up to the Beyoğlu station, our quick and final stop for our walk to Taksim Square along Istiklal Street. (May 6, 2022)

The Metrohan Building and the entrance to the Beyoğlu station of the Tünel in Istanbul where we begin our walk along the pedestrian Istiklal Street that leads to and from Taksim Square. This 7-story office building wasn’t built until 1914. (May 6, 2022)

The sea of people walking along İstiklal Avenue in the Beyoğlu area of Istanbul. This major pedestrian avenue leads from, or in our case, to Taksim Square and is home to late Ottoman era buildings, mostly from the 19th and early 20th centuries, that were designed in a variety of styles with a very European feel. (May 6, 2022)

Walking along the less than one mile (1.4 kilometers) long elegant pedestrian street of İstiklal Avenue in the Beyoğlu area of Istanbul. It houses boutiques, music stores, bookstores, art galleries, cinemas, theatres, libraries, cafés, pubs, nightclubs with live music, historical patisseries, restaurants and more. (May 6, 2022)

The complex of the Saint Anthony of Padua Catholic Church can also be seen and entered into off of İstiklal Avenue in the Beyoğlu area of Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

The Saint Anthony of Padua Catholic Church off of İstiklal Avenue in the Beyoğlu area of Istanbul was built between 1906 and 1912 in the Venetian Neo-Gothic style. The original Saint Anthony of Padua Catholic Church was built in 1725 by the local Italian community of Istanbul, but was later demolished and replaced with the current building constructed on the same location. (May 6, 2022)

Inside the Saint Anthony of Padua Catholic Church off of İstiklal Avenue in the Beyoğlu area of Istanbul was built between 1906 and 1912 in the Venetian Neo-Gothic style. (May 6, 2022)

A close-up of the altar inside the the Saint Anthony of Padua Catholic Church off of İstiklal Avenue in the Beyoğlu area of Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

Ducking into the Passage Hazzopulo passageway off of İstiklal Avenue in the Beyoğlu area of Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

Inside the Passage Hazzopulo passageway off of İstiklal Avenue in the Beyoğlu area of Istanbul with its varied little shops. (May 6, 2022)

Walking along the narrow stone inner streets inside the Passage Hazzopulo passageway off of İstiklal Avenue in the Beyoğlu area of Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

A quiet restaurant area through the Passage Hazzopulo passageway off of İstiklal Avenue in the Beyoğlu area of Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

Another passageway off of İstiklal Avenue, the historic shopping arcade of Avrupa Pasajı, in the Beyoğlu area of Istanbul brings us to another small enclosed shopping area. (May 6, 2022)

Inside the historic shopping arcade of the Avrupa Pasajı passageway, off of İstiklal Avenue, in the Beyoğlu area of Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

Inside the historic shopping arcade, along with this distinguished restaurant of the Avrupa Pasajı passageway, off of İstiklal Avenue, in the Beyoğlu area of Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

The historic Taksim-Tünel Nostalgia Tramway, also sometimes called the T2 line, runs from Taksim Square to the Tünel along Istiklal Avenue. (May 6, 2022)

The European feel along İstiklal Avenue in the Beyoğlu area of Istanbul. (May 6, 2022)

Arriving at Taksim Square with the Republic Monument to the left and the Taksim Mosque to the right. The mosque was designed by two Turkish architects in the Art Deco style and took four years to complete from 2017 to 2021. The sun setting on a beautiful and colorful day. (May 6, 2022)

The Republic Monument, to commemorate the 5th anniversary formation of the Turkish Republic in 1923 following the Turkish War of Independence, at Taksim Square. The monument has two sides, this side facing south towards İstiklal Avenue has Mustafa Kemal Atatürk and his comrades dressed in modern Western clothings ymbolizing his role as statesman. Atatürk was a Turkish field marshal, revolutionary statesman and the founding father of the Republic of Turkey, serving as its first president from 1923 until his death in 1938. (May 6, 2022)

Ending our full and colorful day with a lovely dinner at the Albura Kathisma Café Restaurant close to our hotels in Istanbul. (John took the photo of me, Rosie and Alice. May 6, 2022)

We have come to the end of our time in Istanbul and Turkey but not before we spent a weekend in Çanakkale, which is both a seaport and a province about a four hour drive from Istanbul. In the province of Çanakkale we came to visit the remains of the ancient city of Troy, the hilltop ancient city of Assos and several memorial sites of the World War I Gallipoli Campaign.

According to UNESCO, the archaeological site of Troy has 4,000 years of history and its extensive remains are the most significant and substantial evidence of the first contact between the civilizations of Anatolia and the burgeoning Mediterranean world.

And, the philosopher Aristotle spent three years in the city of Assos following Plato’s death in 347 BC. And, before him, St. Paul, the apostle visited the ancient city of Assos in 56/7 AD. It became one of the first western Anatolian cities converted to Christianity.

After returning back to Istanbul for just a night, we say our goodbyes and individually journey on with our travels. Rosie heads to Budapest while John, Alice and myself fly to Paris.

Next stop, Paris and more. But for now, let’s give a proper good-bye to Istanbul, Çanakkale, Troy, Assos and Gallipoli as we close the door to our Turkish adventure.