The Fire & Ice; Falls & Folklores of Iceland

Me at the bottom of this ice tunnel inside the Jökulsárlón lagoon’s ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)

Had enough time at home in Dallas from my month-long Spain trip to enjoy family and friends and pack for colder weather in Reykjavík, Iceland, by way of JFK Airport in New York.

Even though I’m traveling on my own to Reykjavík, I will be joining an Intrepid Travel tour, my first since last year in March when the pandemic hit and I had to return home from Malaysia.

Unlike Spain, Iceland required a negative Covid-19 test within 72 hours of departure. I took my rapid Covid test yesterday, just a day before leaving, and had my negative results within hours. I will need to take another test to return home to the U.S.

This is my first time in Iceland and although I’m no friend of cold, rainy weather, I’m told Iceland is beautiful and I look forward to checking that out for myself. If all goes well, this trip should prepare me for my planned trip to Antarctica in January 2022. Let’s go brave the country nicknamed ‘the land of fire and ice‘ for its volcanic and glacial terrains that continue to shape Iceland.

See you in Reykjavík!!!

The Intrepid Travel map of the eight days “Iceland Discovery” tour.

Day 1 -Reykjavík

Made it to Reykjavík early this morning when it was still overcast, cold and windy. But my oh my did all that change come the afternoon and the sun.

Because I arrived so early this morning 7:30 am., on a five hour flight from JFK Airport in New York, I had to make myself stay busy until my room at the Aurora Guesthouse in Reykjavík was available after 2 pm. It was obvious that the thin, yet comfortable pants, I wore to travel in would not cut it in the crisp, cold morning wind so I grabbed my jeans, changed and started seeing the sites.

I met the guide, Thor, and my 10-member Intrepid Travel group for this “Iceland Discovery” adventure. It’s a quick eight days with me staying an extra two days.

Although it’s a one-night stay at the Aurora Guesthouse for tonight, we will be back in just six days when the tour ends back in Reykjavík. I’ll spend an extra two nights here so there will be more to come about Reykjavík. For now, here are a few highlights from my day in Reykjavík visiting the tallest church in Iceland, the national museum and more Iceland travel adventures to come.

Me, dry lips and all just trying to keep moving while I waited on my room to be ready at the Aurora Guesthouse in Reykjavík. This gem, the Hallgrímskirkja is both a Lutheran church and the tallest church in Iceland. It took 41 years to build the church which began in 1945 and ended in 1986. (Oct. 1, 2021)
The Hallgrímskirkja Church is one of the city’s best-known landmarks and is visible throughout the city. The statue is of explorer Leif Erikson (c.970 – c.1020) and predates the church’s construction. It was a gift from the United States in honor of the 1930 Althing Millennial Festival, commemorating the 1000th anniversary of the convening of Iceland’s parliament at Þingvellir in 930 AD. (Oct. 1, 2021)
The austere interior of the Hallgrimskirkja, the Lutheran church in Reykjavík. (Oct. 1, 2021)
A close-up of the Hallgrimskirkja altar, the Lutheran church in Reykjavík. (Oct. 1, 2021)
The pipe organ at the entrance inside the Hallgrimskirkja was completed in 1992 and makes beautiful music. (Oct. 1, 2021)
A close-up of the pipe organ at the entrance inside the Hallgrimskirkja was completed in 1992 and makes beautiful music. (Oct. 1, 2021)
Views from the tower of Hallgrímskirkja. An elevator whisks you to the 8th floor and then its less than 40 steps to this gorgeous view of Reykjavík. (Oct. , 2021)
Views of Mount Esja, a volcanic mountain range situated on the south-west side of Iceland and visible from Reykjavík, in this case from a top the tower of Hallgrímskirkja. (Oct. 1, 2021)
Views from the tower of Hallgrímskirkja. (Oct. 1, 2021)
Views from the tower of Hallgrímskirkja. (Oct. 1, 2021)
Views from the tower of Hallgrímskirkja. (Oct. 1, 2021)
The exterior of the National Museum of Iceland in Reykjavík. The windy walk to the museum helped to wake me up and the myriad of historical artifacts kept me going. (Oct. 1, 2021)
The interior entrance to the National Museum of Iceland in Reykjavík. (Oct. 1, 2021)
The Badstofa, at the National Museum of Iceland in Reykjavík, was a communal living space until the 1950s when this type of accommodation gave way to more modern housing. (Oct. 1, 2021)
Inside the communal living area of the Badstofa, at the National Museum of Iceland in Reykjavík, where there was often a small table beneath the window with a small chair. Small chests and boxes were placed on the floor, on a shelf over the bed or in the bed itself. Carding combs, knitting needle boxes, spindle containers and food bowls were stored on shelves above the beds. Bed boards were often carved and placed at the edge of the bed at night. (Oct. 1, 2021)
Gorgeous wood carved boxes at the National Museum of Iceland in Reykjavík. (Oct. 1, 2021)
Around 1000 AD, the Icelanders adopted Christianity and a majority of the most splendid artistic objects of the Middle Ages are connected with religious observations. This beautiful carving is of the Virgin Mary with her mother, St. Anne and the infant Jesus from around 1500 AD at the National Museum of Iceland in Reykjavík. However, during the period of 1540 to 1550 AD, the Icelandic Church became Lutheran. The Reformation in Iceland took place on the orders of the King of Denmark and Iceland, which reinforced his power. (Oct. 1, 2021)
This is a 1682 AD carved and painted oak altarpiece depicting the Last Supper at the National Museum of Iceland in Reykjavík. On the side panels are paintings of St. Paul the Apostle and the Evangelists Matthew, Mark, Luke and John. (Oct. 1, 2021)
A close-up of the carved and painted oak altarpiece from 1682 AD depicting the Last Supper at the National Museum of Iceland in Reykjavík. Christ sits in the middle with a rectangular halo, and in front of him is a chalice and a dish holding the paschal lamb. All the Apostles have a halo but Judas, their treasurer, who holds a purse. (Oct. 1, 2021)
A view of the Tjörnin, a small prominent lake in central Reykjavík that I passed on my way to and from the National Museum of Iceland. (Oct. 1, 2021)
The Tjörnin, a small prominent lake in central Reykjavík. (Oct. 1, 2021)
A view of the Tjörnin, a small prominent lake in central Reykjavík, with a view of the Hallgrimskirkja church in the distance. (Oct. 1, 2021)
It’s called Protection and it, along with other pieces of bronze sculptures by Einar Jónsson are part of the sculpture garden in back of Jónsson’s home, now a small museum showcasing his works. Jónsson is considered Iceland’s first sculptor. (Oct. 1, 2021)
The Einar Jónsson Museum and sculpture garden with a view of the Hallgrimskirkja church in the distance. Jónsson (1874 – 1954) was an Icelandic sculptor, born in Galtafell, a farm in southern Iceland. Einar’s plasters have been cast in bronze and placed in the garden of his home and studio or in city parks in Reykjavík and throughout Iceland. He donated his work to the museum which opened in 1923. (Oct. 1, 2021)
The Aurora Guesthouse where our Intrepid Travel group is staying while in Reykjavík for the night. (Oct. 1, 2021)
The Aurora Guesthouse in Reykjavík. (Oct. 1, 2021)
My very simple, yet comfortable room at the Aurora Guesthouse in Reykjavík. I have a private room, but no private bathroom. Thankfully, the bathroom is next door to my room so I don’t have far to walk. But, I have to admit, I don’t like sharing a bathroom. (Oct. 1, 2021)
My room with a sink at the Aurora Guesthouse in Reykjavík. I’m told the water in Iceland is quite drinkable, straight from the faucet. But it does smell oftentimes resembling rotten eggs. So, letting the water run for a minute is a good idea. The hot water is boiling hot and the cold water is refrigerated cold. (Oct. 1, 2021)
Iceland uses the Krona, but from what I’ve heard and seen, plastic in the MasterCard and Visa versions are more widely acceptable. A 1,000 Krona is about $7.66 USD. (Oct. 1, 2021)
The reverse side of the Krona. (Oct. 1, 2021)
The meat soup with small cut-up pieces of lamb, potatoes, carrots and rice. It was hot, tasty and hearty. Exactly what I needed. Our small Intrepid group of 10 (two members had already eaten so they did not participate) had dinner together at the Kaffi Loki less than a five-minute walk from the Aurora Guesthouse where we are staying. The delicious meat soup was 2.200 Krona and the Faustino VII red wine was 1.200 Krona. This included taxes. So my total for dinner was 3400 Krona, about $26 USD. (Oct. 1, 2021)

Day 2 – The Golden Circle: Þingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park, Strokkur Geysir and the Gullfoss Waterfall

Water. Water. Water. Falling and gushing. Add to that remarkable volcanic landscapes and you have a taste of Iceland.

On our first full day of seeing Iceland, we started with the Golden Circle. The most visited areas in south Iceland and for good reasons. The classic Golden Circle consists of three main attractions: Þingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park, Strokkur Geysir and the Gullfoss Waterfall. We also stopped at a Icelandic Horse Farm and one more waterfall, the Seljalandsfoss before heading to our hotel on a farm for the night with a home cooked dinner.

It’s been a full Day 2 of seeing spectacular waterfalls and incredible landscapes as our Intrepid Travel tour ventured south thru Iceland from Reykjavík. For now, since I’m exhausted and it’s late, I share with you the mesmerizing Seljalandsfoss waterfall and rainbow.

Me in what is called the Parliament Plains, Iceland’s first parliament, at the Þingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park, one of the Golden Circle sites in the municipality of Bláskógabyggð in southwestern Iceland. The large lava rock formations of this gorge are known as Almannagjá and are thought to have been here for some 10,000 years. (Oct. 2, 2021)
The Thingvellir National Park, home to the Parliament Plains location of Iceland’s first parliament, also contains the Silfra fissure, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are slowly pulling apart. The resulting gap is partly filled with fresh water and is clearly visible. (Oct. 2, 2021)
Walking through the large lava rock formations, known as Almannagjá, thought to have been here for some 10,000 years at the Thingvellir National Park. (Oct. 2, 2021)
Walking through the large lava rock formations, known as Almannagjá, thought to have been here for some 10,000 years at the Thingvellir National Park. It is not only a geological wonder and place of historical importance but also a sacred place. (Oct. 2, 2021)
The large lava rock formation, known as Almannagjá at the Thingvellir National Park, is thought to have been there for 10,000 years. It is where the first settlers chose as their national assembly some 1100 years ago to make the laws and settle the disputes. It is also the place where a final decision was made to revert to Christianity and abolish paganism. (Oct. 2, 2021)
Our Intrepid Tour guide, driver and Icelandic encyclopedia, Thor, explaining to our group that about the area at the Þingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park, a beautiful UNESCO World Heritage Site along with being the home to the Parliament Plains where representatives from all over Iceland met here annually during the summertime in an assembly style similar to that of a modern parliament, except it was held outdoors. (Oct. 2, 2021)
The Thingvellir National Park, home to the Parliament Plains and location of Iceland’s first parliament. (Oct. 2, 2021)
Drowning was once widely used as a method of execution. And, it’s difficult to believe that this majestically beautiful place, the Drekkingarhylur or Drowning Deep Pool at the Thingvellir National Park below the meeting place of the Parliament, was where women who were mainly convicted of adultery were drowned. Some 18 women were drowned between 1618 and 1749. (Oct. 2, 2021)
More of the waterfalls at the Thingvellir National Park, home to the Parliament Plains location of Iceland’s first parliament. also contains the Silfra fissure, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are slowly pulling apart. The resulting gap is partly filled with fresh water and is clearly visible. (Oct. 2, 2021)
The waterfalls at the Thingvellir National Park, home to the Parliament Plains location of Iceland’s first parliament. also contains the Silfra fissure, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are slowly pulling apart. The resulting gap is partly filled with fresh water and is clearly visible. (Oct. 2, 2021)
Water flowing out from the waterfall at the Thingvellir National Park, home to the Parliament Plains location of Iceland’s first parliament. (Oct. 2, 2021)
Our tour group got the chance to visit the Bru Horse Farm of Icelandic horses. The horses are a little taller than they seem because the pens or stalls they are in are lower to the ground. The horses of Iceland are the original Viking horses and are considered one of the purest horse breeds in the world. The breed has been isolated on the rugged island in the North-Atlantic for over 1000 years ago, without any genetic input from other breeds. In their native country they have few diseases; Icelandic law prevents horses from being imported into the country and exported animals are not allowed to return. (Oct. 2, 2021)
Our tour group (pictured petting the playful horses are Jane and Khadijah) got the chance to visit the Bru Horse Farm of Icelandic horses. (Oct. 2, 2021)
Our tour group visiting the Bru Horse Farm of Icelandic horses. (Oct. 2, 2021)
The power of Gullfoss, the second site on our Golden Circle route, is a dramatic display of nature’s raw power that can be heard and felt instantly. In Icelandic, Gull means Golden, and Foss means falls. Upon approaching the falls, at least on this day, the water-spray and wind spoke rather loudly. (Oct. 2, 2021)
My selfie as I’m walking towards the power of the magnificent Gullfoss. (Oct. 2, 2021)
Trying to pose and keep my head covered by the magnificent Gullfoss with its two tier waterfall drops into a canyon. (Oct. 2, 2021)
The walkway to the two tieir waterfall drops into a canyon. (Oct. 2, 2021)

A video of the powerful Gulfoss waterfall, part of the Golden Circle route, flows southward from Langjokull Glacier in West Iceland. (Oct. 2, 2021)

The powerful Gulfoss waterfall, part of the Golden Circle route, flows southward from Langjokull Glacier in  West Iceland. (Oct. 2, 2021)
The powerful Gullfoss waterfall, part of the Golden Circle route, flows southward from Langjokull Glacier in West Iceland. (Oct. 2, 2021)

A video of the powerful Gullfoss waterfall, part of the Golden Circle route, flows southward from Langjokull Glacier in West Iceland. (Oct. 2, 2021)

Another video of the powerful Gullfoss waterfall in West Iceland. (Oct. 2, 2021)

The highly active Geysir Hot Springs Area our third site along the Golden Circle with its boiling mud pits, exploding geysers and the lively Strokkur Geyser which spouts water some 100 feet (30 meters) into the air every few minutes. (Oct. 2, 2021)

A video of the Strokkur Geyser in the highly active Geysir Hot Springs Area sprouts boiling water some 100 feet (30 meters) into the air every few minutes. The geyser site was the last of three of the Golden Circle sites we visited in South Iceland is situated in an active geothermal area.Underground water comes into contact with hot bedrock and when the water reaches a peak temperature and pressure, it sprouts out from the geyser. (Oct. 2, 2021)

Me at the highly active Geysir Hot Springs Area along the Golden Circle with its boiling mud pits and exploding geysers. (Oct. 2, 2021)
The highly active Geysir Hot Springs Area along the Golden Circle with its boiling mud pits and exploding geysers. (Oct. 2, 2021)
The highly active Geysir Hot Springs Area along the Golden Circle with its boiling mud pits and exploding geysers. (Oct. 2, 2021)
It’s been a full Day 2 of seeing spectacular waterfalls and incredible landscapes as our Intrepid Travel tour ventured south thru Iceland from Reykjavik. This is the mesmerizing Seljalandsfoss waterfall and rainbow as we make our way to our farm stay for the evening. (Oct. 2, 2021)
A wider view of me at the Seljalandsfoss waterfall.(Oct. 2, 2021)
Me at the Seljalandsfoss waterfall and rainbow. Although visitors can walk behind the falls into a small cave, I opted to skip that portion and stay closer to the ground. (Oct. 2, 2021)

A video of the Seljalandsfoss waterfall and rainbow where visitors can walk behind the falls into a small cave. (Oct. 2, 2021)

Another video of the Seljalandsfoss waterfall and rainbow where visitors can walk behind the falls into a small cave. (Oct. 2, 2021)

The Hótel Fljótshlíð, a country hotel in the center of Fljótshlíð, a farming district in Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)
An evening view from the Hótel Fljótshlíð, a country hotel in the center of Fljótshlíð, a farming district in Iceland. (Oct. 2, 2021)
Dinner at the Hotel Fljotshlid, a farm where we spent the night and had a fabulous dinner of home baked bread and butter, a delicious salad and a pretty dang good tasting meat lasagna. The wine was an extra cost, and rather expensive, a small bottle of wine for $13. Did that stop me? No. I actually ended up buying two bottles.
Dinner at the Hotel Fljotshlid, a farm where we spent the night and had a fabulous dinner of home baked bread and butter, a delicious salad and a pretty dang good tasting meat lasagna. The wine was an extra cost, and rather expensive, a small bottle of wine for $13. Did that stop me? No. I actually ended up buying two bottles. (Oct. 2, 2021)
My room at the Hótel Fljótshlíð, a country hotel in the center of Fljótshlíð, a farming district in Iceland. (Oct. 2, 2021)

Day 3 – A jam packed day with a Black Sand Beach, a vast and historical lava flow and a walk through an ice cave

We began our very long yet mostly sunny and windy day first at one of the biggest waterfalls, Skógafoss before walking on the Black Sand Beach of Reynisfjara with its basalt columns and a stop at the small village of Vik.

From there we checked out the Katla Geopark which includes the remains of the Skaftareldahraun lava flow considered the greatest lava flow in a single eruption in the history of the world covering miles and miles for over eight months. We then made a quick stop over in the small village of Kirkjubæjarklaustur where the lava stopped flowing not far from town while the townsfolks were still inside the church.

Driving and approaching the end of the day, which was just as exciting as the beginning of the day, with a visit to a stunning glacier lagoon ice cave of the unique Vatnajökull National Park.

Join me for an absolutely amazing day in Iceland.

There’s no better way to start the day than with an excursion to another one of Iceland’s waterfalls. The Skógafoss is one of the biggest waterfalls in the country, with a width of 25 metres (82 feet) and a drop of 60 m (200 ft). (Oct. 3, 2021)

A video of the Skógafoss waterfall, one of the biggest waterfalls in the country, with a width of 25 metres (82 feet) and a drop of 60 m (200 ft). (Oct. 3, 2021)

Another video of the Skógafoss waterfall, one of the biggest waterfalls in the country, with a width of 25 metres (82 feet) and a drop of 60 m (200 ft). (Oct. 3, 2021)

The Skógafoss waterfall is one of the biggest waterfalls in the country, with a width of 25 metres (82 feet) and a drop of 60 m (200 ft). (Oct. 3, 2021)
Me at the Skógafoss waterfall, one of the biggest waterfalls in the country, with a width of 25 metres (82 feet) and a drop of 60 m (200 ft). (Oct. 3, 2021)
The Skógafoss waterfall is one of the biggest waterfalls in the country, with a width of 25 metres (82 feet) and a drop of 60 m (200 ft). (Oct. 3, 2021) (Oct. 3, 2021)
Me at the Reynisfjara Black Sands Beach by the unusual rectangular basalt columns off the south coast of Iceland. Reynisdrangar is a series of basalt columns off the south coast of Iceland. The raw black lava sand landscape derives from previous glacial outbursts of the now dormant volcano Katla. Although the sun was out, it was still cold and windy. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The Reynisfjara Black Sands Beach by the unusual rectangular basalt columns off the south coast of Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The Reynisfjara Black Sands Beach by the unusual rectangular basalt columns off the south coast of Iceland. Reynisfjara is formed from heavily eroded black or obsidian volcanic rocks formed from cooled lava. According to one, of several local Icelandic folklores, these large basalt columns were once trolls trying to pull ships from the ocean. However, as bad luck would have it, the rising dawn turned the trolls into solid stone. At their tallest, these stacks are about 216 feet or 66 meters high. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach off the south coast of Iceland. People are advised and so were we were that the Black Sand Beach is not a regular beach and the waves can get very dangerous. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach off the south coast of Iceland. People are advised and so were we were that the Black Sand Beach is not a regular beach and the waves can get very dangerous. (Oct. 3, 2021)
My feet selfie on the ground of the Reynisfjara Black Sands Beach off the south coast of Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach off the south coast of Iceland with the iconic Reynisdrangar Sea Cliffs jutting out from the sea. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Views from our drive through the southeast of Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Views from our drive through the southeast of Iceland and the village of Vik with its red and white church on the hill. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The village of Vík í Mýrdal or Vik is the southernmost village in Iceland and in the distance are the Reynisdrangar Sea Cliffs at the end of the Black Sand Beach. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The Vikurkirkja church overlooks the village of Vik and in the distance are the Reynisdrangar Sea Cliffs at the end of the Black Sand Beach. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Me at the Skaftáreldahraun lava field. In 1783, a huge lava flow streamed from Lakagígar in what became known as the “Skaftá Fires.” This is believed to have been one of the greatest lava flows in a single eruption in the history of the world. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The Skaftáreldahraun lava field, a huge lava flow that became known as the “Skaftá Fires,” erupted violently over an eight-month period between June 1783 and February 1784 from the Laki fissure and the adjoining volcano Grímsvötn. It poured out an estimated 42 billion tons of basalt lava and clouds of poisonous hydrofluoric acid and sulfur dioxide compounds that contaminated the soil, leading to the death of over 50% of Iceland’s livestock population, and the destruction of the vast majority of all crops. (Oct. 3, 2021)
A close-up of the moss covered lava fields of Skaftáreldahraun seen for miles and miles that became known as the “Skaftá Fires.” It erupted violently over an eight-month period between June 1783 and February 1784 from the Laki fissure and the adjoining volcano Grímsvötn. (Oct. 3, 2021)
My Iceland Intrepid Travel tour group at the Skaftáreldahraun lava fields. From left: Philippe, Jane, Lyn, Khadijah, me, James, Louise, Pedro, James, Lois and Rahel. (The photo was taken by our Intrepid tour guide/leader, Thordur Gretarsson. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The Reverend Jón Steingrímsson chapel at Kirkjubæjarklaustur (referred to locally as Klaustur) was built in memory of reverend Jón Steingrímsson, fire cleric (1728-1791). He said the famous Eldmessa (Fire Mass) on July 20, 1783, in the old Klaustur church. Many believe that the Eldmessa stopped the stream of the lava that threatened habitation at the time. This chapel, consecrated in 1974, is situated a little to the east of the old Klaustur church site. (Oct. 3, 2021)
A close-up of the Reverend Jón Steingrímsson chapel at Kirkjubæjarklaustur (referred to locally as Klaustur) was built in memory of reverend Jón Steingrímsson, fire cleric (1728-1791). He said the famous Eldmessa (Fire Mass) on July 20, 1783, in the old Klaustur church. Many believe that the Eldmessa stopped the stream of the lava that threatened habitation at the time. This chapel, consecrated in 1974, is situated a little to the east of the old Klaustur church site. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Past the bell of the Reverend Jón Steingrímsson chapel at Kirkjubæjarklaustur and by the cross in the distance is the site of the old church where the famous Eldmessa (Fire Mass) on July 20, 1783 took place. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The cross in the distance is the site of the old church where the famous Eldmessa (Fire Mass) on July 20, 1783 took place. The people of the small settlement of Kirkjubæjarklaustur were worshipping while the village was endangered by the lava stream, which stopped flowing while the villagers were still in church. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Views of the Skaftáreldahraun lava fields which stretched for miles and miles in South Iceland between the villages of Vík and Kirkjubæjarklaustur. It formed during the 1783 Skaftáreldar massive volcanic eruption in the Lakagígar (Laki) craters about 25 miles or 40 kilometers north of Kirkjubæjarklaustur village. The lava flowed down the river path of Skaftá river and down to the lowlands destroying farmland and farms along the way. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Views of the Skaftáreldahraun lava fields which stretched for miles and miles in South Iceland between the villages of Vík and Kirkjubæjarklaustur. (Oct. 3, 2021)
And, here’s a scant portion of the Vatnajökull glacier inside the Vatnajökull National Park, which translates to a “Glacier of Lakes.” It is the largest most voluminous ice cap in Europe outside the arctic, with a surface area of more than 4900 miles long (8,100 km). (Oct. 3, 2021)

We visited a portion of the unique Vatnajökull National Park in a monsterglacier-riding truck and then walked about a mile through thousand year old volcanic rocks and ash to what remains of a receding and stunning glacier ice cave. Vatnajökull is Europe’s largest glacier outside the arctic, with a surface area of more than 5,000 miles long (8,100 km).

Our transportation, the white monster glacier truck, to the the Jökulsárlón lagoon’s ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. Parked here at our home for the evening, the Gerdi Guesthouse. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Our ice cave driver and guide, Ingyr, (left); and our Intrepid Travel guide and driver, Thordur, (right) whom we call Thor giving us instructions before leaving for the Jökulsárlón ice cave in the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Heading to the Jökulsárlón ice cave with these two wonderful young men, Philippe (left) and James (right) who kept an eye on me and lended a hand or two when I needed it as we made our way to the ice cave in the Vatnajökull National Park in Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The moss covered volcanic rock of a small portion of the Jökulsárlón lagoon at the Vatnajökull National Park as we made our way, on our monster glacier truck, to the ice cave. The narrow, rocky roads were bumpy and it had also started to rain. The moss on these volcanic rocks actually takes anywhere from 200 to 400 years to grow after a volcanic eruption. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The moss covered volcanic rock of a small portion of the Jökulsárlón lagoon at the Vatnajökull National Park as we made our way, on our monster glacier truck, to the ice cave. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The moss covered volcanic rock of a small portion of the Jökulsárlón lagoon at the Vatnajökull National Park as we made our way, on our monster glacier truck, to the ice cave. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The landscape changing from the moss covered volcanic rock, of a small portion of the Jökulsárlón lagoon at the Vatnajökull National Park, to the grayer/darker volcanic rocks as we made our way, on our monster glacier truck, to the ice cave. (Oct. 3, 2021)
A small portion of the Jökulsárlón lagoon by the ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. Notice the volcanic rocks and ashes are gray without the moss and other vegetation seen on the nearby landscape. That’s because this area is newer, in a sense, than the moss grown area because it takes 200 to 400 years for the moss to grow. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The volcanic remains by the Jökulsárlón ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. I have no idea what the surface of the moon actually but this option of the volcanic remains, as we walked to the ice cave, was otherworldly. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The volcanic remains by the Jökulsárlón lagoon ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)
The volcanic remains by the Jökulsárlón lagoon ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Walking towards the entrance to the ice cave of the Jökulsárlón lagoon at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. The top portion of the ice cave entrance is the glacier that mixed with ice and ash giving it the gray coloring. This entrance was a much closer distance but has receded thru the years and is continuing to recede to the point where in time, this ice cave entrance and the ice cave itself will no longer exist. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Getting ready to walk into the Jökulsárlón lagoon ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. This cave, like its host, the massive Vatnajökull glacier above, is steadily melting and receding. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Inside the Jökulsárlón lagoon’ ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. The entrance may not look like much but once you get into the ice cave, it’s very other-worldly. Ice caves are actually huge melted parts within the glacier. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Inside the Jökulsárlón lagoon’s ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Inside the Jökulsárlón lagoon’s ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Inside the Jökulsárlón lagoon’s ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Me inside the Jökulsárlón lagoon’s ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)

A video inside the Jökulsárlón lagoon’s ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)

Inside the Jökulsárlón lagoon’s ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Inside the Jökulsárlón lagoon’s ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Me inside the Jökulsárlón lagoon’s ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Me at the bottom of this ice tunnel inside the Jökulsárlón lagoon’s ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. This was an amazing experience. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Me at the bottom of this ice tunnel inside the Jökulsárlón lagoon’s ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Me at the bottom of this ice tunnel inside the Jökulsárlón lagoon’s ice cave at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 3, 2021)
Although this is my Iceland Intrepid Travel group packing up our van to get on the road again, this is the Gerdi Guesthouse, located at the Vatnajökull National Park region, was where we spent the night after our full day and ice cave adventure. (Oct. 4, 2021)
Views around the Gerdi Guesthouse where we spent the night. (Oct. 4, 2021)
Dinner at the Gerdi Guesthouse was served just minutes after we returned from our volcanic remains walk to the glacier ice cave, part of the Vatnajökull National Park region. I had roasted lam with fresh, delicious vegetables and potatoes. The lamb was covered in a peppercorn-like cream. I loved it. (Oct. 3, 2021)

Day 4 – Floating icebergs, black sand diamonds, fishing village and home made fish soup

It was an early start to anotherlong and full day that included an iceberg lagoon ride, floating icebergs, diamonds on black sand, a quaint fishing village and home made fish soup by our very own Intrepid Travel guide, Thordur, whom we affectionately call Thor.

Here’s more of my Iceland adventures.

Me on the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon Boat Tour in Iceland’s most famous glacier lagoon. The icebergs in the Jökulsárlón lagoon broke off of the Vatnajökull’s glacier in the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. The large broken off icebergs float across the Jökulsárlón lagoon before ending up in the Atlantic Ocean, or washing’s ashore a little further down on the nearby Diamond Beach, a black sandy beach. (Oct. 4, 2021)
Our land and lagoon boat for our Intrepid group’s boat tour along the Jökulsárlón lagoon to see the icebergs Vatnajökull’s glacier in the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 4, 2021)
Heading to a higher viewing point to see the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, which sits at the base of an outlet glacier off the Vatnajökull glacier at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland is one of the most visited landmarks at the National Park. (Oct. 4, 2021)
The Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, which sits at the base of an outlet glacier off the Vatnajökull glacier at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland is one of the most visited landmarks at the National Park. (Oct. 4, 2021)
The Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, which sits at the base of an outlet glacier off the Vatnajökull glacier at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland is one of the most visited landmarks at the National Park. (Oct. 4, 2021)
A close-up of the icebergs and sea ice of the Jökulsárlón lagoon carved from an outlet of the Vatnajökull glacier at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 4, 2021)
Getting started on our Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon boat ride at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. Our Iceland Intrepid Travel group of 11 shared which sits at the base of an outlet glacier of the Vatnajökull glacier is one of the most visited landmarks at the National Park. We were all required to wear a life jacket and to sit while boat rolls into the water. Additionally, we were also told to wear face masks which in the last few days in Iceland has become unusual. Masks have been very infrequently worn. (Oct. 4, 2021)
The small visible portion of the Vatnajökull glacier in the distance during our boat ride along the Jökulsárlón lagoon filled with floating sea ice and icebergs. The Jökulsárlón lagoon was formed from the melting icebergs broken off Vatnajökull’s outlet glaciers. The Jökulsárlón lagoon and Vatnajökull glacier are part of the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 4, 2021)
Views of the large blue and black sea ice and icebergs at the Jökulsárlón lagoon which were formed, like the other icebergs, from the melting icebergs broken off Vatnajökull’s outlet glaciers. The Jökulsárlón lagoon and Vatnajökull glacier are part of the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 4, 2021)

A video from our boat ride of the large blue and black sea ice and icebergs at the Jökulsárlón lagoon which were formed when falling off or breaking off Vatnajökull’s outlet glaciers. The Jökulsárlón lagoon and Vatnajökull glacier are part of the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 4, 2021)

Jane, my Iceland Intrepid tour mate, and me on the Vatnajökull glacier lagoon at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 4, 2021)
Me, Intrepid Travel tour mates and others on the Jökulsárlón lagoon boat tour of the icebergs at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 4, 2021)
More of me but this time on the black, sandy Diamond Beach, just a short walk from the large icebergs of the Jökulsárlón lagoon at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. (Oct. 4, 2021)
Diamond Beach, where the icebergs wash up onto the black sand from the Jökulsárlón lagoon at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. This iconic attraction takes its name from the glittering icebergs scattered across its shore like a field of diamonds. (Oct. 4, 2021)
Diamond Beach, where the icebergs wash up onto the black sand from the Jökulsárlón lagoon at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. This iconic attraction takes its name from the glittering icebergs scattered across its shore like a field of diamonds. (Oct. 4, 2021)
Diamond Beach, where the icebergs wash up onto the black sand. This iconic attraction takes its name from the glittering icebergs scattered across its shore like a field of diamonds. (Oct. 4, 2021)
The iceberg diamonds on the black rocky and sandy beach of Diamond Beach just down from the Jökulsárlón lagoon at the Vatnajökull National Park in southeast Iceland. This iconic attraction takes its name from the glittering icebergs scattered across its shore like a field of diamonds. (Oct. 4, 2021)
Scenes of Iceland as we make our way to the quaint coastal fishing village of Djúpivogur in Eastern Iceland. (Oct. 4, 2021)
Scenes of Iceland as we make our way to the quaint coastal fishing village of Djúpivogur in Eastern Iceland. (Oct. 4, 2021)
We stopped for a quick lunch of fish and chips at the quaint coastal fishing village of Djúpivogur in Eastern Iceland. Djúpivogur is also the only ‘Cittaslow’ town in the country, which promotes easy, slow living for personal and environmental health. (Oct. 4, 2021)
The quaint coastal fishing village of Djúpivogur in Eastern Iceland. (Oct. 4, 2021)
The quaint coastal fishing village of Djúpivogur in Eastern Iceland. (Oct. 4, 2021)
The quaint coastal fishing village of Djúpivogur in Eastern Iceland. (Oct. 4, 2021)
The quaint coastal fishing village of Djúpivogur in Eastern Iceland has this public artwork called ‘The Eggs of Merry Bay’, where in 2009, Icelandic artist Sigurður Guðmundsson created the 34 enormous eggs in the area of the shore line to honor the 34 species of birds that nest within the area. (Oct. 4, 2021)
The exterior of our guesthouse cabin on the farm village of Modrudalur where most of us stayed while several others stayed at another guesthouse just steps away. (Oct. 4, 2021)
That’s Thor, our Intrepid Travel guide who is not only knowledgeable about Iceland history and stories, but he can cook too. Here he is in the kitchen of our guesthouse on the farm village of Modrudalur. Thor cooked fish soup for dinner at our guesthouse in ModrudalurTour mates Lois and Lyn helped with the sous work and after dinner James and Philippe cleaned up. Modrudalur is the highest inhabited place in Iceland, and snow can be seen almost year-round. (Oct. 4, 2021)
My Intrepid Travel tour group gathered at our guesthouse in Modrudalu, Iceland, awaiting our home cooked meal of fish soup by our guide and driver, Thor. (Oct. 4, 2021)
I meant to take a photo of my bowl of fish soup at our guesthouse in Modrudalu but I gulped it down too fast. It was so good. Thank you Thor. I continue to be surprised by the deliciousness and tasty foods of Ireland. This photo is of the fish soup remains at the bottom of the pot. (Oct. 4, 2021)
My very modest room 0n the first floor of our guesthouse at the farm village of Modrudalur. (Oct. 4, 2021)
My very modest room 0n the first floor of our guesthouse at the farm village of Modrudalur. (Oct. 4, 2021)
The church on the farm village of Modrudalur, where our group spent the night, was built in 1949 by farmer Jon Adalsteinn Stefansson in memory of his wife. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The church on the farm village of Modrudalur, where our group spent the night, was built in 1949 by farmer Jon Adalsteinn Stefansson in memory of his wife. (Oct. 5, 2021)
Inside the church of the farm village of Modrudalur which was built in 1949 by farmer Jon Adalsteinn Stefansson in memory of his wife. (Oct. 5, 2021)
In the back of the small village church of Modrudalur is where it’s builder, farmer Jon Adalsteinn Stefansson and his wife are buried. She died in 1944 and he died in 1971. (Oct. 5, 2021)
In the back of the small village church of Modrudalur is where it’s builder, farmer Jon Adalsteinn Stefansson and his wife are buried. She died in 1944 and he died in 1971. (Oct. 5, 2021)

Day 5 – More stunning waterfalls, geothermal areas, a hot springs cave, lava field and stayingg in the second-largest city

But the smell of the fresh air and the chilled feeling of the wind still lingers as do the thoughts of the mountainous, volcanic and vast green landscapes that add to the wonderful diversity of Iceland.

The one common denominator is Iceland’s sheer range of beauty. And, now I get the meaning of it’s nickname, “The Land of Fire and Ice” for its volcanic and glacial terrains that continue to shape Iceland.

The weather and the landscape varied as did the sites in this post which included a powerful and a ‘god-like in beauty’ waterfalls; geothermal areas; a hot springs cave; the lava fields of the Dark Castles and a night’s stay during a beautiful evening in the port and fishing city of Akureyri, the second-largest city in the country.

Here’s just a little more of Iceland.

Me at the Dettifoss waterfalls in northeast Iceland is considered one of Europe’s most powerful waterfalls. Situated on the Jökulsá á Fjöllum (Jokulsargljufur) river, flows from the Vatnajökull glacier. It’s considered Europe’s mightiest waterfall at 328 feet (100 meters) wide with a 148 feet (45 meters) drop into the craggy shores of the Jokulsargljufur canyon below. It’s so powerful that my travel mates who ventured close to the falls (you can see them below by the edge) felt it’s vibrations underfoot. Too much snow, ice and wind for me to venture too close. (Oct. 5, 2021)

A video of the powerful Dettifoss waterfalls in northeast Iceland is considered one of Europe’s most powerful waterfalls. (Oct. 5, 2021)

The walk to the Dettifoss waterfalls in northeast Iceland was another otherworldly experience. It looks like a bleak uninhabited hinterland on some desolate planet but this is what our morning walk to the Dettifoss waterfalls, considered one of Europe’s most powerful waterfalls, looked like. (Oct. 5, 2021)
It may look like I purposely changed this photo to black and white, but I didn’t do anything to it. In the fog and mist with the backdrop of the black volcanic rocks and ash covered by snow and water puddles, this is what the walk to the Dettifoss waterfalls in northeast Iceland truly was like. And, thankfully, I’m wearing rubber crampons on my waterproof Merrill’s and they sure helped on these icy rocks and walkways. If all goes well, I’m heading to Antarctica in January and this trip to Iceland has definitely shown me what gear does and does not work for this kind of climate and quite possibly even colder. (Oct. 5, 2021)
From the Dettifoss waterfalls our group took the short walk upriver to the Selfoss waterfall in northeast Iceland. A smaller waterfall but with the weather continuing to change and the landscape more difficult to maneuver, we did not venture too close. (Oct. 5, 2021)
Our Intrepid Travel group taking the walk back to our van from the Selfoss waterfall just upriver from the Dettifoss waterfall in northeast Iceland and providing some color to the otherwise black and white landscape. (Oct. 5, 2021)
Me at the Namaskard, a geothermal area with fumaroles, large mud pools, steam vents and an orangy-red landscape in northeast Iceland. The Namaskard is part of the Námafjall, a high-temperature geothermal area at the foot of the volcanic mountain with the same name. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The Námafjall is a high-temperature geothermal area at the foot of the Námafjall volcanic mountain. This particular area of the Námafjall, known as Namaskard, is a geothermal area with fumaroles, large mud pools, steam vents and an orangy-red landscape in northeast Iceland. The steam comes fumarole gas such as hydrogen sulfide which is responsible for the characteristic hot springs smell of rotten eggs. In previous centuries sulphur was mined in Iceland to produce gun powder. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The Namaskard, a geothermal area with fumaroles, large mud pools, steam vents and an orangy-red landscape in northeast Iceland. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The Namaskard, a geothermal area with fumaroles, large mud pools, steam vents and an orangy-red landscape in northeast Iceland. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The Námafjall is a high-temperature geothermal area at the foot of the Námafjall volcanic mountain. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The Námafjall is a high-temperature geothermal area at the foot of the Námafjall volcanic mountain. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The Námafjall is a high-temperature geothermal area at the foot of the Námafjall volcanic mountain. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The Námafjall is a high-temperature geothermal area at the foot of the Námafjall volcanic mountain. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The Namafjall volcanic mountain and the various geothermal steam vents on our drive thru northeast Iceland. (Oct. 5, 2021)
That cave-looking entrance is one of two entrances into the Grjótagjá hot springs in northeast Iceland. A rocky entrance leads down to a half-full blue geothermal water which at one time was a very nice thermal bath for the locals. But after Mt. Krafla erupted in 1975-1984 the temperature of the water rose so it couldn’t be used for bathing. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The half-full blue geothermal water inside the Grjótagjá hot springs in northeast Iceland. (Oct. 5, 2021)
I just loved this view of the Namafjall volcanic mountain by the Grjótagjá hot spring cave in northeast Iceland. (Oct. 5, 2021)
Mountain views from the Dimmuborgir formations also called the “Dark Castles,” are unusually shaped lava fields east of Mývatn in Iceland. This lava field consists of a massive, collapsed lava tube formed by a lava lake about 2300 years ago. The Dimmuborgir area is composed of various volcanic caves and rock formations, reminiscent of an ancient collapsed citadel. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The Dimmuborgir formations, also called the “Dark Castles,” are unusually shaped lava fields east of Mývatn in Iceland consisting of a massive, collapsed lava tube formed by a lava lake about 2300 years ago. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The Dimmuborgir formations, also called the “Dark Castles,” are unusually shaped lava fields east of Mývatn in Iceland consisting of a massive, collapsed lava tube formed by a lava lake about 2300 years ago. (Oct. 5, 2021)
Me practicing my Queen wave on the Queen’s Throne at the Dimmuborgir formations, also called the “Dark Castles,” of unusually shaped lava fields east of Mývatn in Iceland. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The Dimmuborgir formations, also called the “Dark Castles,” are unusually shaped lava fields east of Mývatn in Iceland consisting of a massive, collapsed lava tube formed by a lava lake about 2300 years ago. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The Dimmuborgir formations, also called the “Dark Castles,” are unusually shaped lava fields east of Mývatn in Iceland consisting of a massive, collapsed lava tube formed by a lava lake about 2300 years ago. (Oct. 5, 2021)
Me at the crescent shaped Godafoss waterfall nicknamed the “Waterfall of the Gods.” Its fed by the river Skjálfandafljót in northeast Iceland. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The crescent shaped Godafoss waterfall nicknamed the “Waterfall of the Gods.” Its fed by the river Skjálfandafljót in northeast Iceland. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The crescent shaped Godafoss waterfall nicknamed the “Waterfall of the Gods.” Its fed by the river Skjálfandafljót in northeast Iceland. (Oct. 5, 2021)
Views of the town of Akureyri, at the base of Eyjafjörður Fjord in northern Iceland, where our Intrepid Travel group spent the night. Akureyri, surrounded by mountains the highest one being Kerling, is the country’s second-largest city. (Oct. 5, 2021)
Views of the town of Akureyri, at the base of Eyjafjörður Fjord in northern Iceland, where our Intrepid Travel group spent the night. Akureyri is surrounded by mountains, the highest one being Kerling. (Oct. 5, 2021)
Views of the town center of Akureyri in northern Iceland, where our Intrepid tour group stayed for the night. (Oct. 5, 2021)
Views of the town center of Akureyri in northern Iceland. (Oct. 5, 2021)
Views of the town center of Akureyri in northern Iceland. (Oct. 5, 2021)
Views of the town center of Akureyri in northern Iceland. (Oct. 5, 2021)
The Rádhústorg Square or Main Square of the town center of Akureyri in northern Iceland. (Oct. 5, 2021)
Views of the town center of Akureyri in northern Iceland. (Oct. 5, 2021)
Dinner at Bautinn in Akureyri was just what I needed, something familiar but with some local flair and these salt and pepper wings with a chilli mayonnaise dip hit that spot. The cost for these six pieces of wings was 1799 Krona about $13.91 USD. Eating out in Iceland can be rather expensive. But the pricing includes taxes. (Oct. 5, 2021)
Dinner at Bautinn in Akureyri also included these Cajun Chicken fries with pieces of chicken, cheese sauce, pico de gallo, onions, green peppers and guacamole. This turned out to be rather tasty and even though this was a small portion, from a much bigger plate, that I shared with a fellow traveler. (Oct. 5, 2021)
Views of the town center of Akureyri in northern Iceland, where our Intrepid tour group spent the night at the Apotek Guesthouse in the town center. (Oct. 5, 2021)
My very bland and minimal room at the Apotek Guesthouse in town center of Akureyri. Toilet and showers were down the hall. (Oct. 5, 2021)

Day 6 – Snaefellsnes Peninsula of beautiful views while driving, an historic turf farmhouse and a night at a horse farm with idyllic views in a cozy bungalow and a delicious homecooked meal

Our travel journey through Iceland is rapidly coming to an end. But the beauty of the country continues as we make our way through the Snaefellsnes Peninsula back to the capital of Reykjavik. But before the end, we visited the historic turf farmhouse of Glaumbaer and ended our day at the horse farm Lýsuhóll, located in Western Iceland on the South coast of the Snæfellsnes peninsula.

Views of the beautiful landscape of Northwest Iceland. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Views of the beautiful landscape of Northeast Iceland. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Views of the beautiful landscape of Northeast Iceland. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Views of the beautiful landscape of Northeast Iceland. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The Glaumbær Church, built in 1926 and the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Glaumbær is an old turf farmhouse and museum complex of separate buildings united by a central passageway. The buildings (rooms in Glaumbær date from slightly different time periods ranging from the 18th to 19th century and is mostly made of turf and driftwood. This type of turf construction was universal in rural areas of Iceland up until 1910-1930. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Glaumbær is an old turf farmhouse and museum complex of separate buildings united by a central passageway. (Oct. 6, 2021)
All Icelandic farms formerly had their own smithy, which was necessary for family farm life, such as sharpening scythes, and making horseshoes and other farm equipment and utensils at Glaumbær, the old turf farmhouse and museum complex. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The storeroom of the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum. The wooden crates displayed were put on the pack-saddles. The square crates were used for hay and the triangular ones for turf and rocks. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The Brandahús, of the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum, consists of an entrance, front hall, and passages that connect the farmhouse buildings. The entrance provides access to nine of the 13 buildings. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The Brandahús, of the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum, consists of this front hall entrance or long passageway that kept the cold out. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The Brandahús entrance of the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The kitchen inside the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum dates to the 18th century. The hearth was originally built in 1784 and was in continual use until 1910. Here, meals were prepared for 10 to 20 people. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The kitchen inside the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum dates to the 18th century. The hearth was originally built in 1784 and was in continual use until 1910. Here, meals were prepared for 10 to 20 people. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The Main Pantry inside the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The Long Pantry inside the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum is the oldest part of the farm, which dates to the 18th century. Slátur (e.g. innards, head cheese, liver and black pudding) were stored in whey in the barrels in this pantry. Skyr, an Icelandic cultured dairy product but with the consistency of strained yogurt, was also stored here. The consistant temperature in this room was ideal for food storage. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The Dairy inside the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum is where the dairy products were made. First, fresh milk was poured into separating traysand after about 36 hours, the cream was separated from the mil. The newly skimmed milk was then poured off and the remaining cream was churned into butter. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The Guest Room to the front inside Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The Guest Room to the front inside Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The Baðstofa or communal living quarters to the back inside the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum. Here the farmer (who was also the priest), his family and the hired hands, ate, worked and slept. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The Baðstofa or communal living quarters to the back inside the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The exterior of the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum complex. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The exterior of the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum complex. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The exterior peat wall and the Glaumbær church next to the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum complex. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The two timber houses at the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum are Áshús (the yellow house with its exhibits and tea room) and Gilsstofa (the gray house now an office). The yellow house was built in 1883-1886 and the gray house is a reconstruction of a house originally built in 1849. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Inside the yellow Áshús house at the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Inside the yellow Áshús house at the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Inside the yellow Áshús house at the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Inside the yellow Áshús house at the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Inside the yellow Áshús house at the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Inside the yellow Áshús house at the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Inside the yellow Áshús house at the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Inside the yellow Áshús house at the Glaumbær turf farmhouse and museum with views of the beautiful mountainside. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Views of the mountainside from the yellow Áshús house at the Glaumbær turf farmhouse. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Kirkjufell or “Church Mountain” and the waterfall, Kirkjufellsfoss, named after it. The mountain derives its name from its special shape, which in many
respects resembles that of a church. It is one of the better-known mountains in Iceland. Danish
sailors, who often came to this area in earlier times, called it “The Sugar Top”. The lowest part of the mountain is composed of sediments containing fossils. These sediments are believed to have been formed early in the Ice Age more than a million years ago. They contain the remains of different organisms that lived during either the cold or the warm periods of the Ice Age. The
mountain acquired its present form during the latter part of the Ice Age and is one of the best examples of glacial erosion in Iceland. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Kirkjufell or “Church Mountain” and the waterfall, Kirkjufellsfoss, named after it. The mountain derives its name from its special shape, which in many
respects resembles that of a church. It is one of the better-known mountains in Iceland, especially for photographers. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Photographers set up to photograph the waterfall, Kirkjufellsfoss, named after the Kirkjufell or “Church Mountain,” considered as one of the most photographed locations in Iceland. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Catching a photo of the photographers set up to catch the best light of the Kirkjufell or “Church Mountain.” (Oct. 6, 2021)
Although views of the the Kirkjufell or “Church Mountain” are beautiful, views around it, like this one, are also quite incredibly stunning. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Although views of the the Kirkjufell or “Church Mountain” are beautiful, views around it, like this one, are also quite incredibly stunning. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Although views of the the Kirkjufell or “Church Mountain” are beautiful, views around it, like this one, are also quite incredibly stunning. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The Lýsuhóll Guesthouse and horse farm in Western Iceland on the South coast of the Snæfellsnes peninsula where our tour group spent the night. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Our Iceland Intrepid Travel tour group stayed in this, and another, summer house with four bedrooms each at the Lýsuhóll Guesthouse and horse farm in Western Iceland on the South coast of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The summer house at the Lýsuhóll Guesthouse and horse farm in Western Iceland on the South coast of the Snæfellsnes peninsula and the beautiful evening views. (Oct. 6, 2021)
The living room area and views from our summer house at the Lýsuhóll Guesthouse and horse farm in Western Iceland on the South coast of the Snæfellsnes peninsula where I spent the night with other group members. (Oct. 6, 2021)
My sparse but warm room at the summer house at the Lýsuhóll Guesthouse and horse farm in Western Iceland on the South coast of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Several members of our Iceland Intrepid Travel group went horseback riding at the Lýsuhóll Guesthouse and horse farm before dinner. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Several members of our Iceland Intrepid Travel group went horseback riding at the Lýsuhóll Guesthouse and horse farm before dinner. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Dinner, starting with soup and salad, at the Lýsuhóll Guesthouse and horse farm. (Oct. 6, 2021)
A delicious smorgasboard of a dinner at the Lýsuhóll Guesthouse and horse farm that included
Chicken, horse meat (which I could not bring myself to taste, let alone eat), fish, potatoes, rice, salad, carats and more. It was all delicious. And, I thought the food in Iceland would be dull, but I was so wrong because its all been great. (Oct. 6, 2021)
My plate of goodies at the Lýsuhóll Guesthouse and horse farm. I went back for more fish, rice and carrots. (Oct. 6, 2021)
Dinner at the the Lýsuhóll Guesthouse and horse farm in the Snaefellsbaer peninsula. (From left and around the table: James, Lois, Khadijah, Jane, Lyn, Rahel, me, Pedro, Louise, James and Philippe. (Oct. 6, 2021)

Day 7 – Snæfellsjökull National Park, the black sand beach of Djúpalónssandur, the cliffs of Arnarstapi and a Covid-19 test in Reykjavík

Before arriving back in Reykjavík, we continued exploring the Snæfellsnes Peninsula by going to the Snæfellsjökull National Park and walking along the crescent-shaped basaltic pebble beach of Djúpalónssandur with its black sand, black pebbles and craggy rocks.  Then we made a couple of other quick stops including to Arnarstapi a tiny village known for its cliffs. 

We completed our circuit of Iceland back in Reykjavík by traveling some 1,370 miles  (2200 kilometers)  and making back in the early afternoon in time for our designated Covid-19 test appointments, required for most of us to get into our respective countries, including myself to get back into the U.S.

And, even though I did not take one photo, our group, along with our guide Thor, gathered for a group dinner during our last night together.

Me and my Intrepid Travel group at Djúpalónssandur, a black pebbled beach located on the Snæfellsnes peninsula in West Iceland. (Oct. 7, 2021)
Djúpalónssandur, in Snaefellsnes, is a black sand beach located at the foot of the Snaefellsjökull glacier famous for its spectacular lava rock formations. (Oct. 7, 2021)
Views of the Snæfellsjökull, a 700,000-year-old glacier-capped stratovolcano from the Djúpalónssandur black sand beach area. The orange-colored iron remains are from a wrecked British trawler from 1948.  (Oct. 7, 2021)
The iron remains of the British trawler, the Epine Grimsby GY7, on the black sand beach of the Djúpalónssandur. It wrecked the night of March 13, 1948 and five of the 19 crew members were saved. The iron is still on the beach in memory of the seamen who lost their lives that night. (Oct. 7, 2021)
At the tip of Snæfellsnes peninsula is the inlet of Djupalonssandur, used in centuries past as a landing for small fishing boats. Craggy rocks surround the beach, made of black sand and small black smooth pebbles. (Oct. 7, 2021)
Me on the black sand, black pebbled beach with the cliffs and lava rock formations of the Djúpalónssandur. And, yes, it was cold and windy. (Oct. 7, 2021)
The black sand, black pebbled beach with the cliffs and lava rock formations of the Djúpalónssandur. (Oct. 7, 2021)
The black sand, black pebbled beach with the cliffs and lava rock formations of the Djúpalónssandur. (Oct. 7, 2021)
The lighthouse by the visitors center of the Snæfellsjökull National Park. (Oct. 7, 2021)
We made our way to Arnarstapi, a small village on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula with its basalt columns, impressive natural cliffs and rock formations. (Oct. 7, 2021)
Arnarstapi, a small village on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula with its basalt columns, impressive natural cliffs and rock formations. (Oct. 7, 2021)
Arnarstapi, a small village on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula with its basalt columns, impressive natural cliffs and rock formations. (Oct. 7, 2021)
Arnarstapi, a small village on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula with its basalt columns, impressive natural cliffs and rock formations. (Oct. 7, 2021)
Heading toward the north entrance of the Hvalfjörður Tunnel, to take us to Reykjavík. It runs under the Hvalfjörður fjord about three and a half miles long at about a depth of 540 feet below sea level. (Oct. 7, 2021)
Inside the Hvalfjörður Tunnel, which provides a shorter distance to Reykjavík. It runs under the Hvalfjörður fjord about three and a half miles long at about a depth of 540 feet below sea level. (Oct. 7, 2021)
My negative test results from the rapid Covid-19 test I took for free Reykjavík. All travelers are given a free Covid test and a negative result is required for me to get on the plane home in less than 72 hours. (Oct. 7, 2021)

Day 8 – Walking tour of Reykjavík

I planned an extra couple of days in Reykjavík at the end of the tour and I’m so glad I did.

Before leaving for my Reykjavík Free Walking Tour, I left my box room at Aurora Guesthouse and in a matter of minutes, I had walked myself, my suitcase and my backpack to my next place of rest during my last two days in Reykjavík, the Reykjavík Downtown Hotel thru by way of the Chinese food restaurant. 

The weather can be unpredictable. It can go from gray to sunny to rain and windy and back again in the course of a day. So, layering one’s clothing is essential because the weather changing is inevitable. And, oddly enough, it just fits with the stunning landscape. 

And just before the Reykjavík Free Walking Tour was to start, it started raining. But these tours don’t get canceled because of the weather unless we’re talking extremely bad weather. It wasn’t a heavy rain, just light showers that came and went through out the tour.

Reykjavík is believed to be the first permanent settlement in Iceland by Norsemen and Ingólfur Arnarson is considered the first settler who established Reykjavík around 870. The Reykjavík area was farmland until the 18th century. In 1752, King Frederik V of Denmark donated the estate of Reykjavík to the Innréttingar Corp. to establish the wool industry. It was the city’s most important employer for a few decades and helped build houses for the industry.

Come join me for a walk around central Reykjavík. 

Me on Skólavörðustígur, also called Rainbow Street in downtown Reykjavík, with its painted rainbow colors, initially part of the city’s annual Gay Pride festival, is now a permanent part of this pedestrian street. At the top of the street, in the distance, is one of Reykjavík’s best known buildings, the Hallgrímskirkja Church. (Oct. 8, 2021)
The opposite view of Rainbow Street on Skólavörðustígur, in downtown Reykjavík, with its painted rainbow colors. (Oct. 8, 2021)
More of Rainbow Street initially it was just for the Gay Pride Festival but in June 2019, the Reykjavík City Council voted unanimously to make the rainbow permanent. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Street art in Reykjavík’s city center. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Street art in Reykjavík’s city center. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Street art in Reykjavik’s city center. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Mirrored art structure in Reykjavík’s city center. (Oct. 8, 2021)
The Reykjavík Free Walking tour meeting point at the main square of Austurvöllur by the statue of national hero, Jón Sigurðsson, leader of the 19th century Icelandic independence movement from Denmark. (Oct. 8, 2021)
The 19th century Parliament House in central Reykjavík’s main square of Austurvöllur was built using hewn dolerite from 1880 to 1881. To the left is the Reykjavík’s Lutheran Cathedral and seat of the bishop of Iceland. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Reykjavík’s Lutheran Cathedral and seat of the bishop of Iceland. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Skúli Magnússon (1711-1794) was the first Icelander to be Reykjavík’s Town Magistrate and was for half a century considered the country’s most powerful man when he founded the Innréttingar, Iceland’s first industrial enterprise leading to Reykjavík’s urban development. (Oct. 8, 2021)
The oldest house in Reykjavík, from 1764, is at Aðalstræti 10. At the time it was built Reykjavík had very few inhabitants and had just started to resemble a village. (Oct. 8, 2021)
This charming red house was the home of Benedikt Grondal (1826-1907), writer, illustrator, translator and natural scientist. He lived in the house from 1888 until he passed away. (Oct. 8, 2021)
My Reykjavík Free Walking tour group at the two huge stone pillars, called high seat pillars, with the name of the first settler, Ingolfur Arnarson a Norwegian Viking, at the Ingólfstorg square in the old center of Reykjavík. That’s our walking tour guide Nanna, in the yellow raincoat by the pillar. (Oct. 8, 2021)
After sailing from Norway, Ingólfur Arnarson took the pillars of his high seat, tossed them into the ocean, and vowed to build his farm where they came to shore. They came to shore in Reykjavík (Smoking Cove, so called for the geothermic steam in the area) and he and his family took up residence in 874. This basalt pillar, one of two huge stone pillars, is located at the Ingólfstorg square in the old center of Reykjavík. (Oct. 8, 2021)
A beautiful rainbow which can be seen from the Ingólfstorg square in the old center of Reykjavík. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Views around the Ingólfstorg square in the old center of Reykjavík. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Views around the Ingólfstorg square in the old center of Reykjavík. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Steinbryggjan is the preserved old the Stone Pier of the Reykjavík Harbour where the ocean once reached. This landmark has its roots in the old town pier which was built in 1884. (Oct. 8, 2021)
This statue of Ingólfur Arnarson, Iceland’s first permanent settler having landed in 874, is by sculptor Enar Jónsson (1874-1954) stands on Arnarhóll hill overlooking old town Reykjavík. (Oct. 8, 2021)
A close-up of the Ingólfur Arnarson sculpture, Iceland’s first permanent settler having landed in 874, by sculptor Enar Jónsson (1874-1954) stands on Arnarhóll hill overlooking old town Reykjavík. (Oct. 8, 2021)
The Culture House (left in white) and the National Theater of Iceland (right in gray) in central Reykjavík. The theater opened formally in 1950. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Views of downtown Reykjavík as the walking tour group made its way towards Skólavörðustígur, also called Rainbow Street, in downtown Reykjavík, with its painted rainbow colors. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Along Skólavörðustígur, also called Rainbow Street, in downtown Reykjavík, with its painted rainbow colors. And, in the distance is the Hallgrímskirkja Church. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Along Skólavörðustígur, also called Rainbow Street, in downtown Reykjavík, with its painted rainbow colors. (Oct. 8, 2021)
The Reykjavík School of Education is the oldest junior college in Iceland. The school has been at its current location since 1846 and has been called the Reykjavík School of Education since 1937. But it traces its origins back to 1056. (Oct. 8, 2021)
The Reykjavík City Hall building located on the northern bank of the lake ‘Tjörnin’ in the historic center of Reykjavík and houses the offices of the mayor. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Monument to the Unknown Bureaucrat by the Reykjavík City Hall building located on the northern bank of the lake ‘Tjörnin’ in Reykjavík. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Face carving on a stone along a street in Reykjavík. (Oct. 8, 2021)
An evening view of the Reykjavík Cathedral. It is considered the most iconic landmark in Reykjavík and a monumental triumph of Icelandic architecture that rests on top of Skólavörðuhæð Hill. The name of the hill, however, predates the church by about two hundred years. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Back at Kaffi Loki restaurant having the Meat soup, its the Icelandic lamb meat soup and a national tradition. And, it was just as delicious as the first time I had it during my first night in Reykjavík. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Pancake with skyr and caramel sauce. No, I did not eat all of this, I shared it with my group after dinner at Kaffi Loki. Skyr is a thick and creamy Icelandic yogurt. It may be classified as a fresh soul milk cheese but it’s consumed like a yogurt and has been part of the Icelandic cuisine for centuries. (Oct. 8, 2021)
Several of us spent an extra night or two in Reykjavík and decided to get together at Kaffi Loki for dinner. (From left, Philippe, me, Rahel, Lyn, Jane and Khadijah.) (Oct. 8, 2021)
I had so much fun with my whole group but these two young women brought incredible joy to my heart with their desire to travel and explore. Like me, they each joined the group on their own to see Iceland. From left: Khadijah, me and Rahel with Reykjavík’s iconic Hallgrímskirkja Church as our backdrop. (Oct. 8, 2021)
The Reykjavík Downtown Hotel thru the Vietnam Restaurant off the main drag of Skólavörðustígur is where I spent my last two nights in Reykjavík. (Oct. 8, 2021)
The Reykjavík Downtown Hotel thru the Vietnam Restaurant off the main drag of Skólavörðustígur is where I spent my last two nights in Reykjavík. (Oct. 8, 2021)
My room inside the Reykjavík Downtown Hotel thru the Vietnam Restaurant off the main drag of Skólavörðustígur. (Oct. 8, 2021)

Day 9 – My Last Full Day in Reykjavík and Iceland

I’ve come to one very important conclusion, after being in Iceland, I’m tired of being cold. As beautiful as this country is, and it most definitely is, the cold, mixed with what seems like constant wind, is just too dang bone chilling. 

I deliberately did not plan to do a whole lot today and the weather gave me an out. But once the heavy rain stopped, I had to make my way to the waterfront to see the Sun Voyager and walk around central Reykjavík just one last time. And, I’m so glad I did. 

What an incredible trip! Iceland, you’re awesome!

Me at the Sun Voyager, a sculpture by Jón Gunnar Arnason (1931-1989), located on Reykjavík’s waterfront resembles a Viking long-ship. The Sun Voyager is described as a dreamboat, or an ode to the Sun. The artist intended it to convey the promise of undiscovered territory, a dream of hope, progress and freedom. (Oct. 9, 2021)
The Sun Voyager sculpture by Jón Gunnar Arnason (1931-1989) located on Reykjavík’s waterfront resembles a Viking long-ship. The artist intended it to convey the promise of undiscovered territory, a dream of hope, progress and freedom. (Oct. 9, 2021)
The Sun Voyager sculpture by Jón Gunnar Arnason (1931-1989) located on Reykjavík’s waterfront resembles a Viking long-ship.And, yes, that’s me standing in the corner. (Oct. 9, 2021)
Views of Reykjavík’s waterfront where the Sun Voyager is located. (Oct. 9, 2021)
The high-rises across the street from the waterfront and the Sun Voyager sculpture in Reykjavík. (Oct. 9, 2021)
Street art in central Reykjavík. (Oct. 9, 2021)
Street art and architecture in central Reykjavík. (Oct. 9, 2021)
Street art in central Reykjavík. (Oct. 9, 2021)
Street art in central Reykjavík. (Oct. 9, 2021)
Street art in central Reykjavík. (Oct. 9, 2021)
Street art in central Reykjavík. (Oct. 9, 2021)
Street art in central Reykjavík. (Oct. 9, 2021)
Street art in central Reykjavík. (Oct. 9, 2021)