Me on the triforium, a space above and overlooking the nave, of the Cathedral of Cuenca. And, high enough to appreciate the various angels carved into the archways. Another climb, just 70-steps up a spiral staircase, worth taking. (Sept. 13, 2021)
I loved getting to know Cuenca’s unusual terrain. Located across a steep spur, whose slopes descend into the deep gorges of the Júcar and Huécar river you’re either climbing up or stepping down but either way, be prepared for truly beautiful views from this UNESCO World Heritage site. Noted as a “medieval fortress town that has preserved its original townscape remarkably intact along with many excellent examples of religious and secular architecture from the 12th to the 18th centuries.”
When the Muslims captured the area in 714, they soon realized the value of this strategic location and they built a fortress (called Kunka). Alphonse VIII, King of Castile conquered Cuenca in 1177 and it became a royal town and district under a bishop’s control endowed with important buildings such as Spain’s first Gothic cathedral, and the famous Casas Colgadas or Hanging Houses, suspended from sheer cliffs overlooking the Huécar river.
The historical centre of Cuenca is brought together by its main square, the Plaza Mayor with its Cathedral of Cuenca , the City Hall, and the beautiful facade of colorful buildings and surrounding smaller plazas.
Although it rained one of my days in Cuenca, I was wonderfully comfortable at the Parador of Cuenca. This former monastery, with an enviable location atop the gorge above the Huécar River, is on the outskirts of the old town, but connected by the metal Bridge of San Pablo over the river. And, just my luck, the bridge was closed for renovations which meant taking the long way up to the old town where the Plaza Mayor and Cuenca Cathedral are located. But what a beautiful and breathtaking- in more than one way – climb it was.
Here’s Cuenca! Next stop, Toledo.
Me with views of the Cathedral of Cuenca and the Bridge of San Pablo in Cuenca. These views are from across the gorge just a short downhill distance from my hotel, the Parador of Cuenca. The bridge, normally a a 7-minute walk across to the old town of Cuenca, is temporarily closed for renovation and that meant taking the 30-minute walk up and up to the Plaza Mayor and the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)A view of old town Cuenca from across the gorge by the Parador of Cuenca. Originating as a fortified settlement around an old Moorish castle in the Early Middle Ages, Cuenca was taken over in 1177 by the Christian army led by Alfonso VIII, King of Castile. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Bridge of San Pablo with views of the famous Casas Colgadas or Hanging Houses of Cuenca as seen from short downhill distance from my hotel, the Parador of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)More views of the Cathedral of Cuenca and the metal Bridge of San Pablo across the gorge from the Parador of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)The metal Bridge of San Pedro spanning over the gorge and Huécar River connects the Parador of Cuenca with upper old town Cuenca, something I was actually looking forward to crossing. The current bridge was preceded by another of the same name, built between 1533 and 1589 on the initiative of Canon Juan del Pozo originally in stone and remained standing until 1895, but that bridge collapsed. In 1902 the current iron and wood bridge was built and inaugurated on April 19, 1903. (Sept. 12, 2021)Views of the famous Casas Colgadas or Hanging Houses of Cuenca as seen from across the gorge close to the Parador of Cuenca. In the past, these hanging houses were frequent along the eastern border of the upper old town of Cuenca. However, today only these group of three, with the wood balconies, remain. (Sept. 13, 2021)Views of the remaining Casas Colgadas or Hanging Houses (left) from the old town side of Cuenca along with the metal Bridge of San Pablo over the Huécar River and the Parador of Cuenca (right). Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Hanging Houses are the most emblematic and famous spot in Cuenca. The picturesque Casas Colgadas are reached via the Calle Obispo Valero, built at the edge of a steep cliff overlooking the Huécar river. The houses cling precariously to the cliff side with their balconies projecting over the abyss. The entire gorge area was originally lined with hanging houses, but only three of them remain. (Sept. 13, 2021)From the upper town in Cuenca’s historic heart or the old town where the Cathedral of Cuenca, the colorful houses, monasteries and hanging houses look down to the lower town that consists of the medieval working-class suburbs of San Anton and Los Tiradores. And, views of the Júcar River flowing through Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)Remnants of the defensive wall of Cuenca for its upper old town and by the Júcar River. (Ssept. 13, 2021)The Plaza Mayor of Cuenca with the Cathedral of Cuenca to the left, the colorful housing in the middle and the Town Hall to the right. This historic and old town area of upper Cuenca is a picturesque jumble of colorful buildings and a multitude of small plazas. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Plaza Mayor of Cuenca with its colorful buildings and baroque 18th century Town Hall built on three semicircular arches. (Sept. 13, 2021)The other side of the 18th century Town Hall raised on three semicircular arches that give access, from Alfonso VIII street, to Cuenca’s Plaza Mayor. (Sept. 13, 2021)Walking up again, between the narrow streets of Cuenca’s old town. (Sept. 13, 2021)Inside one of the many plazas or squares of Cuenca, including this one with the Seminario Conciliar (to the left) and the Iglesia de la Merced (to the right) at the Plaza de la Merced in Cuenca’s old town. (Sept. 13, 2021)Remains of the defensive walls of Cuenca at the Plaza de Carmen. (Sept. 13, 2021)Views of more steps and the colorful housing of old town Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Plaza Ciudad de Ronda overlooking the views of overlooking old town Cuenca and beyond. (Sept. 13, 2021)Views of old town Cuenca and beyond from the Plaza Ciudad de Ronda. (Sept. 13, 2021)Views of old town Cuenca and beyond from the Plaza Ciudad de Ronda. (Sept. 13, 2021)The bronze statue of Christian King Alfonso VIII on his horse, located in the Plaza del Obispo de Javier Barrios, honors the king, who after 400 years of Moorish rule, liberated Cuenca in 1177. This square is located in one of the streets parallel to the Plaza Mayor and less than 100 feet (30 meters) from the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)Stairs, stairs and more stairs are all a part of the beauty of not just getting to old town Cuenca, but walking through it. So as much as the views took my breath away, so did these chairs. (Sept. 13, 2021)And, steep inclining streets that can be just as challenging to go down as they are to go up to the old town of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)
It may not look like much, with its distinctive hillside slant and destroyed upper section but inside Cathedral of Cuenca is truly quite stunning and impressive. Cuenca’s impressive cathedral, which began construction in 1196 and completed in 1257, stands proudly on the town’s main square. Also known by the name of Nuestra Señora de Gracia (Our Lady of Grace), the cathedral features a mix of Norman and Gothic architectural details. Although the facade was damaged in 1902 when the bell tower collapsed, the interior has been well preserved.
The current facade of the Cathedral of Cuenca is not the original. King Ferdinand III had the façade built and ordered the erection of two twin towers that would go to the sides of the cathedral, in the Gothic-Norman style. Years later, in the 18th century, the façade and towers were reformed, giving it a more period style, giving it a baroque appearance until the bell tower collapse, giving it the appearance we see today.
On the Plaza Mayor, the Cathedral of Cuenca, a surprising sight with its unusual-looking façade (also known as Our Lady of Grace and St Julian) is one of the earliest Spanish examples of Gothic architecture. Construction began in the 12th century, although it was not completed until the 16th. The façade was partially reconstructed in the neo-Gothic style at the beginning of the 20th century to repair damage caused when the bell tower collapsed in 1902. The best part of the Cathedral is inside with its impressive paintings, sculptures and great reliefs distributed thru its many chapels. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Main Facade of the Cathedral of Cuenca’s has changed at least three times. The original facade, constructed in the 13th century, was Gothic style then dismantled and replaced with a Baroque arch. The third change came about as a result of the Tower of the Angel falling and causing serious damage to the structure of the facade. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Main Facade of the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Main Facade of the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)The impressive life-sized sculpture of the Last Supper at the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)A close-up of the impressive life-sized sculpture of the Last Supper at the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)A close-up of the impressive life-sized sculpture of the Last Supper at the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)A close-up of the impressive life-sized sculpture of the Last Supper at the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Main Chapel of the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)The altarpiece Main Chapel of the Cathedral of Cuenca’s central scene shows the Nativity of Our Lady in haut-relief and the two figures of Saint Joaquín and Saint Anne are on either side of her. (Sept. 13, 2021)A close-up of the altarpiece of the Main Chapel of the Cathedral of Cuenca. The central scene shows the Nativity of Our Lady in haut-relief and the two figures of Saint Joaquín and Saint Anne are on either side of her. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Cathedral of Cuenca choir is located in the middle of the central nave. The lectern was designed to hold the large choir books.(Sept. 13, 2021)The Cathedral of Cuenca choir is located in the middle of the central nave. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Cathedral of Cuenca choir is located in the middle of the central nave and is flanked by two impressive organs installed in the 18th century. . (Sept. 13, 2021)The walnut carved seats of the Cathedral of Cuenca. The high backrests are adorned with reliefs of saints, created by the sculptor Manuel Gassó. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Chapel of Our Lady of the Tabernacle is another of the stunning chapel inside the Cathedral of Cuenca. Bishop Don Enrique Pimentel ordered the chapel to be constructed in 1629 and it is entirely constructed from the Cuenca highlands marble. The Greater Altar is dedicated to the Virgin of the Tabernacle, whose image presides over the room. This image accompanied Alfonso VIII on all of his battles, placed in the arch of the king´s saddle. When he reconquered Cuenca, he donated the image to the city, declaring himself to be the patron of the same. Andrés de Vargas, the frescoes painter in the vault and the cupola, are decorated with a cortege of musical angels. The paintings of the medallions represent scenes from the life of the Virgin. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Chapel of Our Lady of the Tabernacle is another of the stunning chapel inside the Cathedral of Cuenca. Bishop Don Enrique Pimentel ordered the chapel to be constructed in 1629 and it is entirely constructed from the Cuenca highlands marble. Andrés de Vargas, the frescoes painter in the vault and the cupola, are decorated with a cortege of musical angels. The paintings of the medallions represent scenes from the life of the Virgin. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Chapel of the Transparency at the Cathedral of Cuenca houses the scene of The Virgin Delivering the Palm Leaf to the Saint. (Sept. 13, 2021)A close-up of the Chapel of the Transparency at the Cathedral of Cuenca houses the scene of The Virgin Delivering the Palm Leaf to the Saint. (Sept. 13, 2021)An exterior entryway to the Main Sacristy of the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)The entryway to the Main Sacristy of the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Main Sacristy of the Cathedral of Cuenca is the place in which the robes and sacred vessels for worship are kept, and where the priests get changed for liturgical activities. It is for this same reason that the room has large closets on every side and two mirrors at the front. The first and most striking element is the Gothic-Elizabethan façade. In the central niche is the expressive and striking Our Lady of Sorrows created by the illustrious 17th century sculptor Pedro de Mena. In the upper section is the lovely polychrome image of the Virgin with Child which dates from the 17th century. The central table is hewn from a single piece of marble, crafted by Blas de Rentería in 1758. (Sept. 13, 2021)A close-up of the central altarpiece of the Main Sacristy of the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)A close-up of the striking and expressive Our Lady of Sorrows created by the 17th century sculptor Pedro de Mena inside the Main Sacristy of the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Knights Chapel, considered the largest chapel inside the Cathedral of Cuenca, with its wrought iron grill and decorative motifs of angels and dragons houses the tombs of its founder Don García and his son Don Alvar, whose tombs can be seen under the two ogee arches in the chapel. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Tombs of Don García and his son Don Alvar under the two ogee arches inside the Knights Chapel of the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Tombs of Don García and his son Don Alvar under the two ogee arches inside the Knights Chapel of the Cathedral of Cuenca. Both statues are in a prone position and are dressed in their distinctive knights’ armor. The statues are carved from alabaster, with rich, magnificently crafted embellishments which were created during the reforms of the 16th century. (Sept. 13, 2021)A close-up of one of the Tombs of Don García and his son Don Alvar under the two ogee arches inside the Knights Chapel of the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)At the foot of the altarpiece of the Adoration of the Kings in the Knights Chapel of the Cathedral of Cuenca is the tomb of Doña Teresa de Luna, the wife of Don García. The black stone covering the tomb features the silhouette of the lady in bas-relief. Higher up, we can see the head and interlaced hands, worked in alabaster. This beautiful tomb from the 14th century is considered the oldest of all of the tombs. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Chapel of St. Martin at the Cathedral of Cuenca is perhaps the smallest chapel, yet its altarpiece’s décor is beautiful. The central body of the altarpiece presiding over the chapel features the chapel’s namesake, who is taking off his cloak to offer it to a poor person. The railing which protects him, the work of Hernando Arenas, reiterates the scene alluding to Saint Martin and his Cloak. (Sept. 13, 2021)A close-up of the altarpiece décor of the Chapel of St. Martin at the Cathedral of Cuenca. The central body of the altarpiece features the chapel’s namesake, who is taking off his cloak to offer it to a poor person. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Bishop´s Chapel or Saint Julián´s Chapel at the Cathedral of Cuenca. The central altarpiece features scenes from the life of the saint in bas-relief. Saint Julián is shown making baskets, which he sold to raise money to give to the poor. (Sept. 13, 2021)Inside the Bishop´s Chapel or Saint Julián´s Chapel at the Cathedral of Cuenca. The central altarpiece features scenes from the life of the saint in bas-relief. Saint Julián is shown making baskets, which he sold to raise money to give to the poor. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Munoz Chapel of the Cathedral of Cuenca presents a beautiful Plateresque facade from the 16th century. The Virgin with the Child at the top with Saint Jerome on the left and John the Baptist on the right. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Jamete Arch of the Cathedral of Cuenca is an impressive Renaissance arch proving access to the cloister. It represents the largest architectural feature in the cathedral complex and is an important religious monument inRenaissance Spain. (Sept. 13, 2021)Views of inside the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)Views of inside the Cathedral of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)Me on the triforium, a space above and overlooking the nave, of the Cathedral of Cuenca. And, high enough to appreciate the various angels carved into the archways. Another climb, just 70-steps up a spiral staircase, worth taking. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Triforium of the Cathedral of Cuenca is a connecting gallery in the high part of the central nave. (Sept. 13, 2021)The Triforium of the Cathedral of Cuenca is a connecting gallery in the high part of the central nave with below views of the life-sized sculpture of the Last Supper. (Sept. 13, 2021)The walkway of the Triforium of the Cathedral of Cuenca in the high part of the central nave. (Sept. 13, 2021)
The Parador of Cuenca, my hotel and former convent of San Pablo.
An incredible view of the Parador of Cuenca, my hotel and former convent of San Pablo, taken from across the gorge at the Cathedral of Cuenca. On the remains of a small monastery Canon Juan del Pozo ordered the construction of the convent and church attached to it in 1523. (Sept. 13, 2021)A close-up of my hotel, the Parador of Cuenca, a former Dominican convent of San Pablo. Paradors are a state-run chain of high-end historical buildings, such as a monastery or castle, converted to a hotel. It can also be a modern building with a panoramic view of a historic city. (Sept. 12, 2021)Another gorgeous view of the Parador of Cuenca, a former Dominican convent of San Pablo opposite the old town, seemingly hanging over the sheer-sided gorge. (Sept. 12, 2021)The large hallways with places to sit for a drink or a meal by the glass-enclosed cloister of the Parador of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)Outdoor dining in the glass enclosed cloister at the Parador of Cuenca. (Sept. 12, 2021)The tunnel-like hallway to my room at the Parador of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)A cozy reception area on the second floor, where my room is, at the Parador of Cuenca. (Sept. 13, 2021)My very spacious room at the Parador of Cuenca. I also stayed at the Parador in Mérida. I think with the rainy weather and location from the old town, the Parador of Cuenca turned out to be quite the cozy haven for me. (Sept. 14, 2021)
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