20 Countries 2020: Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador & Nicaragua

Guatemala – Antigua

Tropical weather, pastel-washed colonial buildings lining cobblestoned, more like rocky, uneven streets and vibrant wares for sale all around gives just a taste of Antigua, Guatemala. Antigua Guatemala, which means “Old Guatemala,” was founded on March 10, 1543 and was the third capital of the country of Guatemala. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which means this city is a landmark area that is legally protected for world preservation, Antigua was first declared a national monument by the Guatemalan government and a Protective Law was passed by Congress in 1969 intended to protect, restore and preserve all private and public cultural heritage in the city.

I’m so glad I came in a day early because my #intrepidtravel tour “Guatemala & Beyond” officially kicked off last night with a welcome meeting which basically meant spending only one night in Antigua so getting in early, to at least have a full day of sites, was a necessity.

To get in as much of the Antigua sites as I could, I took the Antigua Tours by Elizabeth Bell. Elizabeth has lived in Guatemala for 50 years and is both a U.S. and Guatemalan citizen. Her “Cultural Walking City Tour,” was filled with historical and present day insights of Antigua.

Here’s a sampling of Antigua, Guatemala, and a great way to kick off my #20countries2020. Next stop, Copan, Honduras.

Me at the Parque Central also known as the Plaza Central Park in the heart of the city of Antigua, Guatemala, with the reconstructed mermaid fountain behind me. I’m wearing the new red coral, jade and silver earrings I purchased for myself at Jade Maya, a jade factory and archaeology museum in Antigua. And I’m also sporting Invisalign braces. As if traveling to #20countries2020 wasn’t already going to be a challenge, I decided to start the Invisalign’s just before the New Year. Thank you Dr. Hollie Shirey at Infinity Dental Care in Dallas for being my most favorite dentist ever and for helping me take care of my choppers, and now straightening them these past six years. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The Intrepid Travel map of my quick 9-days trek through the four Central American countries of Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador and Nicaragua.
I begin my #20countries2020 with this Intrepid Travel tour and several more to come throughout the year of countries I’ve never been to. (January 2020)

The Mermaid Fountain at the Parque Central in Antigua, Guatemala. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The Parque Central, also known as Plaza Central Park, is the beating heart of Antigua. Buzzing with activity, the park is bordered by trees, a cathedral, city hall and colonial buildings. At the center of the park is the Mermaid Fountain built by Diego de Porres in 1737. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The city hall borders the Plaza Central Park in Antigua. (Jan. 4, 2020)

The arches of the Antigua city hall’s second floor balcony. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The arches of the Antigua city hall’s second floor balcony. (Jan. 4, 2020)

Elizabeth Bell, owner of Antigua Tours, and our small walking group’s guide of Antigua, Guatemala, inside city hall and standing in front of a portrait of Pedro de Alvarado y Contreras the Spanish conquistador and governor of Guatemala. (Jan. 3, 2020)

Inside the meeting room of city hall in Antigua, Guatemala. Incoming newly elected officials, including the new Antigua mayor will take place in a couple of weeks. (Jan. 3, 2020)

A view of the set against the Antigua Guatemala Cathedral with backdrop of monumental volcanoes, from the second floor balcony of the Antigua city hall. (Jan. 3, 2020)

A view of the against the Antigua Guatemala Cathedral with backdrop of monumental volcanoes, from the second floor balcony of the Antigua city hall. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The Catedral de San José or Antigua Guatemala Cathedral, a Roman Catholic church in Antigua, was originally built around 1541. But, the Cathedral has suffered several earthquakes throughout its history. The first church building was demolished in 1669 but was rebuilt and consecrated in 1680. By 1743 the cathedral was one of the largest in Central America. However, the devastating 1773 Guatemala earthquake seriously damaged much of the building, though the two towers at the front remained largely intact. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The Catedral de San José or Antigua Guatemala Cathedral, a Roman Catholic church in Antigua, was originally built around 1541. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The effigy of Jesus Christ carrying the Cross inside the Catedral de San José or Antigua Guatemala Cathedral in Antigua was carved in 1650 by Alonzo de la Paz y Toledo. It is considered one of the most beautiful images in the country is placed on floats during holidays and attracts a large numbers of churchgoers every year. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The altar inside Catedral de San José or Antigua Guatemala Cathedral, a Roman Catholic church, originally built around 1541 in Antigua. (Jan. 3, 2020)

A close-up of the altar inside the Catedral de San José or Antigua Guatemala Cathedral, a Roman Catholic church in Antigua, was originally built around 1541. The altar still displays the Nativity scene from the Christmas holidays. (Jan. 3, 2020)

Admiring the architecture in Antigua, Guatemala. (Jan. 3, 2020)

A close-up of the carved mermaid designs in the same building above in Antigua, Guatemala. (Jan. 3, 2020)

Walking along Antigua’s cobblestone streets with its colonial era architecture is like stepping back into the days of Spanish colonialism. The streets were created around 1541 but the stones, from the nearby volcanoes, were not placed into the ground until around the 1600 to 1700’s. (Jan. 3, 2020)

A replica of the jade mosaic death mask worn by the ancient Mayan King Pakal the Great at the Jade Maya Factory and Archaeology Museum in Antigua. The original is on display at the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City and dates to the Maya Classic Era of 673 AD. (Jan. 3, 2020)

Raphael, our guide at the Jade Maya Factory and Archaeology Museum in Antigua, is standing under images of the ancient Mayan calendar. Based on my birth month, day and year I am Kan, the sign of the Snake or the feathered serpent with the color of yellow for corn, maturity, respect. In Kan one can work for justice, equality, balance, respect and spiritual and physical health for oneself, the family and the community. (Jan. 3, 2020)

A depiction of the ancient Mayans at the Jade Maya Factory and Archaeology Museum in Antigua, Guatemala, wearing a variety of Jade. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The remains of a decaying building in Antigua being structurally re-enforced for possible future use. Antigua has been declared a national monument by the Guatemalan Government in 1944 and a Protective Law was passed by Congress in 1969. The city was also designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. (Jan. 3, 2020)

Behind a very inconspicuous door is this walkway into the major complex of the Casa Santo Domingo in Antigua. The five-star hotel is beautifully set in the ruins of a church and monastery along with artifacts uncovered during archaeological restoration. But it doesn’t stop there. This “Historic Boutique Hotel Museum,” actually has several small museums on the complex that display both historical artifacts and modern art. Plus there are restaurants and even a Chocolatier. The history of Casa Santo Domingo Church can be traced back to 1538 when the Dominicans arrived in Guatemala. The monastery, with remains you can walk through, was destroyed in the 1773 Santa Marta earthquake. (Jan. 3, 2020)

A gorgeous little garden also at the entryway into the major complex of Casa Santo Domingo hotel, church and monastery ruins along with museums in Antigua. (Jan. 4, 2020)

A woman with her outdoor shop in a garden area of the Casa Santo Domingo hotel, church and monastery ruins along with museums in Antigua, Guatemala. (Jan. 3, 2020)

A close-up of the woman weaving in the garden area of the Casa Santo Domingo hotel, church and monastery ruins along with museums in Antigua. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The ruined remains of the monastery at the complex of Casa Santo Domingo in Antigua. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The ruined remains of the church at the complex of Casa Santo Domingo in Antigua. This venue often gets booked for weddings. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The Chapel of the Rosary in the complex of Casa Santo Domingo in Antigua, Guatemala. This chapel was excavated from under 16 feet of dirt and its architectural remains, along with reconstruction, show it to have been and continue to be a rather beautiful place. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The Crypt of the Calvary at the complex of Casa Santo Domingo in Antigua. Combing sculpture and painting of the figures of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary, both in high and medium relief and beneath them is Mary Magdalene on one side and Saint John the Apostle on the other side. The date is 1683. (Jan. 3, 2020)

A close-up of the Crypt of the Calvary at the complex of Casa Santa Domingo in Antigua. The sculpture/painting dated 1683 is behind protective glass. (Jan. 3, 2020)

A silver statue of Saint Michael the Archangel at the Silver Museum in the Casa Santo Domingo complex in Antigua. Yes, it looks like gold but it’s definitely silver. Many of the Silver Museum objects are from the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. And, most are for liturgical use such as votive lamps, candelabras, altar pieces and Saint’s iconography. (Jan. 3, 2020)

Although I’ve read where Mexico was the birthplace of chocolate, as far as Guatemala is concerned, Guatemala is the birthplace of chocolate. This Chocolatier at the Casa Santo Domingo complex in Antigua is where I stopped to get my chocolate fix. The Mayans were said to make chocolate and considered it “the food of the gods.” (Jan. 3, 2020)

Me at the Chapel of the Niches, once a vaulted cemetery inside the monastery ruins at the Casa Santo Domingo complex in Antigua. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The Chapel of the Niches, once a vaulted cemetery inside the monastery ruins at the Casa Santo Domingo complex in Antigua, Guatemala. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The EL Refectorio restaurant inside the Casa Santo Domingo complex in Antigua. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The first course lunch meal at the EL Refectorio restaurant inside the Casa Santo Domingo complex in Antigua. The Guatemalan version of chicken tacos with avocado and red beans on red pepper-chipotle sauce along with a jalapeño cream France and fresh cilantro. I was so hungry and this looked and tasted so good I started eating before taking a photo. (Jan. 3, 2020)

My second course lunch meal at the EL Refectorio restaurant inside the Casa Santo Domingo complex in Antigua. This Chapman soup was with pulled chicken, avocado, corn, fresh cheese plus tiny cubed portions of carrots and potatoes. It was accompanied with a mini tamale. Soup was delicious and I didn’t eat the tamale but I did have a glass of wine and that was delicious too. (Jan. 3, 2020)

Admiring the architecture and the wide cobblestoned streets in Antigua, Guatemala. (Jan. 3, 2020)

It’s called a chicken bus, making its way down the cobblestoned road in Antigua, and is known for being a modified school bus that’s rather colorfully decorated and transports a host of good and people. It is best known in various Latin American countries, especially in Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador and Nicaragua. Maybe a chicken bus is in my future since I will be going to all of these countries. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The dazzling yellow and white exterior of the Nuestra Señora de la Merced Convent-Church in Antigua is named after the mercenaries who established monasteries throughout the Kingdom of Guatemala. Rather beautiful and ornamental on the outside, but beautifully plain on the inside. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The exterior of the Nuestra Señora de la Merced Convent-Church in Antigua, Guatemala. (Jan. 3, 2020)

Inside the Nuestra Señora de la Merced Convent-Church in Antigua, Guatemala. (Jan. 3, 2020)

The Arch of Santa Catalina, once a bridge for the nuns to cross, is Antigua’s most iconic landmark. Perched above a busy street, the bright yellow stone arch with white trim and a French clock, was built in the 1690s. And, in the distance looms the Volcan de Agua or Agua Volcano covered by the clouds. (Jan. 3, 2020)

A close-up of the Arch of Santa Catalina, once a bridge for the nuns to cross, is Antigua’s most iconic landmark. (Jan. 3, 2020)

Honduras – Copán

I’ve seen dozens of ruins but never Mayan ruins until now. We left Antigua, Guatemala at 4 am Sunday morning arriving in Copán Ruinas, Honduras, in time for lunch and a walk around this small town whose claim to fame are the Mayan ruins of Copán, less than a mile away.

An afternoon siesta and a wonderful group dinner capped our first half day while the ruins, before leaving for El Salvador, capped our second half day.

And, even though we only spent one night in the town of Copán Ruinas, the town was pleasant and the ruins, a UNESCO World Heritage site, were stunning.

The Kingdom of Copán ruins, of the Copan Archaeological Park, once with a population of 20,000 covered an area of over 100 square miles or 250 square kilometers. It is considered unique because of the numerous elaborate and still intact stone stelae, with hieroglyphs, plus the beautiful stone temples, with carved ancient faces; altars and the remains of various carved relics.

Copán was ruled by the Yax Kuk Mo dynasty, which means First Quetzal Macaw, was installed in 426 AD by Teotihuacan influence and support of the ruler Sihyaj Chan K’awiil II of Tikal in Guatemala. The dynasty ruled between 400 and 800 AD until Copán was completely abandoned around the year 827 AD.

Here’s the Mayan ruins of Copán and the town of Copán Ruinas in Honduras, the second country of my #20countries2020 with #intrepidtravel. Next stop, Suchitoto, El Salvador.

Me at the hieroglyphic stairway of Temple 26 containing 63 steps carved with hieroglyphs that tell the history of Copán’s Mayan civilization at the Copán Archaeological Park in Honduras. Copán was ruled by the Yax Kuk Mo dynasty, installed in 426 AD and ruled consecutively by 16 kings until 827 AD. (Jan. 5, 2020)

There is no network of public transport in the town of Copán Ruinas in Honduras so most transit is conducted by small motorized taxi-bikes or tuk tuks. These tuk tuks were lined up outside our hotel, Calle Real, to take our tour group to the Copán Archaeological Park, the archaeological site of the ancient Mayan civilization, a little less than a mile away from the town. Needless to say, I got in the red one. (Jan. 5, 2020)

A mock-up of the ancient Mayan civilization of Copán at the Copán Archaeological Park in Honduras, a little less than a mile away from the town of Copán Ruines. And, yes, this ancient civilization painted its temples and stelae in red, the sacred color of blood. (Jan. 5, 2020)

The Temple of Inscriptions, or Temple 11, of the Acropolis was built as a gateway to the underworld in Copán, an ancient Mayan civilization, at the Copán Archaeological Park in Honduras. (Jan. 5, 2020)

A close-up of the howler monkey stone sculpture, a patron of the artisans, at the Temple of Inscriptions, Temple of Scribes or Temple 11, in Copán, an ancient Mayan civilization, at the Copán Archaeological Park in Honduras. (Jan. 5, 2020)

A stone carving replica of the Altar Q, which shows the succession of the 16 members of the Copán Dynasty was erected by King Yax Pac in 776 AD and begins with Yax Kuk Mo in 426 AD at the Copán Archaeological Park in Honduras. Each king, four on each side, is shown in full body portraits and seated on a version of his particular name in hieroglyph. (Jan. 5, 2020)

My tour group and I at the Copán Archaeological Park in Honduras. Thank you Fernando for the photo! (Jan. 5, 2020)

Looking down into ancient Mayan civilization of Copán’s Great Plaza at the Copán Archaeological Park in Honduras. (Jan. 5, 2020)

The Hieroglyphic Stairway and the Stelae M of the ancient Mayan civilization of Copán at the Copán archaeological site in Honduras. The Stairway was rediscovered and excavated at the end of the 19th century, with only the lower 15 steps found in their original position. The rest of the Stairway steps were reconstructed in 1937-40 using original fallen blocks which had been placed on the Great Plaza. The protective canvas shelter was first installed in 1985 and has been periodically replaced as needed. (Jan. 5, 2020)

The Hieroglyphic Stairway of the ancient Mayan civilization of Copán at the Copán Archaeological Park in Honduras. (Jan. 5, 2020)

A close-up of the sculptured macaw with wings stretched out and beastly clawed talons on the Ball Game structure of Copán’s ancient Mayan civilization at the Copán Archeological Park in Honduras. (Jan. 5, 2020)

The stelae and alters in the Great Plaza area of the ancient Mayan civilization of Copán at the Copán Archeological Park in Honduras showcase the huge and intricately carved portraits of Copán’s rulers. The core purpose of many of the Mayan stelae were to glorify the king and describe him and his actions with hieroglyphic script. These are heavily carved stelae that are gross and yet intriguing to look at and try to decipher. There are said to be over 80 stelae at Copán. The associated altar, placed in front of the stelae, were used for blood letting ceremonies or animal and even human sacrifices. (Jan. 5, 2020)

The two faces of Copán’s King Uaxaclajuun Ub’aah K’awiil, also known as 18-Rabbit and Stela C is dated 711 AD at the Copán Archaeological Park in Honduras. This east side facial features show the young looking king. (Jan. 5, 2020)

This is Stelae 4 said to depict Copán’s King Uaxaclajuun Ub’aah K’awiil or 18-Rabbit from 726 AD at the Copán Archaeological Park in Honduras. (Jan. 5, 2020)

A close-up of The hieroglyphics in back of Stelae 4 is said to depict Copán’s King Uaxaclajuun Ub’aah K’awiil or 18-Rabbit from 726 AD at the Copán Archaeological Park in Honduras. (Jan. 5, 2020)

This is Stela B erected by Copán’s King Uaxaclajuun Ub’aah K’awiil or 18-Rabbit in 731AD depicting his accession to the throne at the Copán Archaeological Park in Honduras. (Jan. 5, 2020)

A close-up of Stela B erected by Copán’s King Uaxaclajuun Ub’aah K’awiil or 18-Rabbit in 731AD depicting his accession to the throne at the Copán Archaeological Park in Honduras. (Jan. 5, 2020)

When we entered the Copán Archaeological Park we could hear the macaws squawking rather loudly and even saw some flying around. This area of the park is a rescue for these scarlet macaws. (Jan. 5, 2020)

The scarlet macaw at the the Copán Archaeological Park in Honduras. (Jan. 5, 2020)

A close up of the hieroglyphics on the Hieroglyphic Stairway of the ancient Mayan civilization of Copán at the Copán Archaeological Park in Honduras. The Stairway is believed to be a record of the royal history of Copán, listing the names of kings, their births, their deaths, and the defining events of their rule. (Jan. 5, 2020)

The Ball Game area of the ancient Mayan civilization of Copán constructed 738 AD at the Copán Archaeological Park in Honduras. The court, with its two structures facing one another, has space in between the structures for the games and other festivities. (Jan. 5, 2020)

One side of the Ball Game area of the ancient Mayan civilization of Copán was built in 738 AD using the image of the sacred scarlet macaw with its colorful tail feathers and Mayans regarded the scarlet macaw as sacred, with its flamboyant tail feathers often used as decorations for the costumes of the kings. (Jan. 5, 2020)

Our small Central America band of travelers. From left: Fernando, our group leader from El Salvador, Mark, Donna, Kevin, Eliza, Julian, Lachlan, Indira and me. And, the two people squatting under the Copan sign are Joe and Courtney. Small group and a local guide are what has become very important to me as I travel more extensively. This diverse group are from Australia, the United Kingdom, Austria, New Zealand the USA. (Jan. 4, 2020)

This is the view of the seriously cobblestoned streets and downward incline going into town from our hotel, Calle Real in the town of Copán Ruinas, Honduras. First thing our little group did was hit the ATM machines to get the Honduran Lempira…$1 USD is about 25 Honduran Lempiras. (Jan. 4, 2020)

A mural along the way back up the cobblestoned incline street to our hotel, Calle Real in the town of Copán Ruinas, Honduras. (Jan. 4, 2020)

The Main Plaza in the town of Copán Ruinas, Honduras. (Jan. 4, 2020)

A statue in the garden of the Main Plaza in the town of Copán Ruinas, Honduras. (Jan. 4, 2020)

Loved this colorful mural off the Main Plaza in the town of Copán Ruinas, Honduras. (Jan. 4, 2020)

Small pop-up markets around the Main Plaza in the town of Copán Ruinas, Honduras, where locals can purchase fruits and vegetables. (Jan. 5, 2020)

A vegetable shop close to the Main Plaza in the town of Copán Ruinas, Honduras, where locals can purchase their fresh vegetables. (Jan. 5, 2020)

Life on the streets in the town of Copán Ruinas, Honduras. (Jan. 5, 2020)

Heading back up the cobblestoned incline street to our hotel, Calle Real in the town of Copán Ruinas, Honduras. (Jan. 4, 2020)

An outdoor market as our tour group made our way to dinner in the town of Copán Ruinas, Honduras. (Jan. 4, 2020)

My #intrepidtravel tour group out to dinner at Carnitas Nia Lola in the town of Copán Ruinas, Honduras. Thank you Julian for the photo. (Jan. 4, 2020)

That’s my bottle of wine the server is balancing on top of her head at Carnitas Nia Lola in the town of Copán Ruinas, Honduras. (Jan. 4, 2020)

And, this is why this restaurant, Carnitas Nia Lola is a carnitas place, a meat place in the town of Copán Ruinas, Honduras. Five of us ordered the six service dinner that included a bunch of meats and sides. I hate like I had never eaten before and it was all delicious. (Jan. 4, 2020)

A close-up of the grilled meat platter, pork, beef, chicken and chorizo, that five of my tour members and I shared during dinner at Carnitas Nia Lola in Copán Ruinas, Honduras. (Jan. 4, 2020)

A close-up of just some of the sides that five of my tour members and I shared during dinner at Carnitas Nia Lola in Copán Ruinas, Honduras. (Jan. 4, 2020)

El Salvador – Suchitoto & El Cuco

Crossing the border from Honduras into El Salvador on Sunday was rather quick, but the bus ride, broken up by needed stops at gas stations, took about six hours which meant arriving at our final destination of Suchitoto, just in time for dinner.

The sun had set and the people were definitely out when we arrived in Suchitoto. Sundays are busy in Suchitoto because families from the capital of San Salvador, a little more than a half an hour’s drive away, come to enjoy themselves in this quaint little town.

Suchitoto has seen continuous human habitation long before Spanish colonization however during the 1980s, Suchitoto suffered during the Civil War of El Salvador. Apart from the destruction of their buildings, many of the townspeople left almost abandoning the entire town except for about 50 families. In 1992, after the signing of the Chapultepec Peace Accords, Suchitoto began its reconstruction process and the return of its inhabitants. The town has since prospered as a tourist site due to its colonial style architecture and cobblestoned streets, and on a small scale, there are hotels, restaurants, local shops and vendors.

The center of Suchitoto is its Parque Central (Central Park or Main Square) dominated by the Santa Lucia Church. And our hotel, Casa Hotel Santa Lucia, was just a few cobblestoned steps away from the square. But it wasn’t until Monday that we got to spend the day exploring the areas around Suchitoto and enjoying the ease of its small town Hispanic colonial ambiance.

Here’s the quaint village of Suchitoto in El Salvador, the third country of my #20countries2020 with #intrepidtravel. Next stop, a day at the beach in El Cuco, El Salvador.

The Parque Central or main square of the town of Suchitoto, El Salvador, dominated by the Santa Lucia Church. We arrived just after dark to the lit-up colonial city with our hotel, the Casa Hotel Santa Lucia just a few cobblestoned steps away from this main square. The church, which took nine years to build, was finally completed in 1853. (Jan. 5, 2020)

The Parque Central or main square of the town of Suchitoto, El Salvador, dominated by the Santa Lucia Church. (Jan. 5, 2020)

The women making our dinner for tonight at the Portal El Buen Sabor outdoor restaurant in the Parque Central, or square of the town of Suchitoto and the national El Salvadorian staple called Pupusa, which our group had for dinner. Pupusas are thick corn tortillas stuffed with cheese, meat, squash or other fillings. You can also put a sour sort of cabbage salad or homemade tomato sauce on top. (Jan. 5, 2020)

A close-up of the women making the Pupusas, the national Salvadorian staple, at La Lupita del Portal at the Central Parque or main square in Suchitoto, El Salvador, where our meal was cooked outdoors and we ate outdoors. (Jan. 5, 2020)

Most of my #intrepidtravel group members at our hotel, Casa Hotel Santa Lucia in Suchitoto, El Salvador, gathering for our morning walking in town and all around. (Jan. 6, 2020)

The colonial town of Suchitoto, El Salvador, around its Parque Central or main square. (Jan. 6, 2020)

The colonial town of Suchitoto’s Parque Central or main square dominated by the Santa Lucia Church completed in 1853. (Jan. 6, 2020)

The vendor tents around the Parque Central or main square of the colonial town of Suchitoto, El Salvador. (Jan. 6, 2020)

The wonderful indigo shop of Arte Añil (indigo ink) around the Parque Central or main square in the colonial town of Suchitoto, El Salvador. Stopping in this shop was a sheer delight for me and meeting its enthusiastic and delightful owner, Irma, was a joy. (Jan. 6, 2020)

Inside the indigo shop of Arte Añil (indigo ink) which sells beautiful tops and dresses dyed in the local indigo. (Jan. 6, 2020)

Irma, the owner and operator of Arte Añil (art of indigo or art of indigo dying) showing the very precious indigo powder, made from the plant, needed to make the dyed indigo products. Irma is passionate about indigo and opened her shop in honor of the long tradition of producing indigo to dye fabrics in El Salvador. It obviously takes quite a bit of these little leaves to produce the natural powder which requires the leaves to be soaked overnight which results in the water turning blue. The mixture is then sun-dried till crisp to remove any moisture and then powdered. The Spanish, who called the indigo ‘Blue Gold,’ would bring the lengthy process and expensive indigo back to Europe in powder form until 1882 when the Germans invented a synthetic and less expensive indigo. The production of indigo came to a stop in El Salvador in 1960 but was re-introduced 16 years ago and Irma has been working with indigo for 13 of those years. (Jan. 6, 2020)

Irma, the owner and operator of Arte Añil (art of indigo or art of indigo dying) demonstrating the indigo dying process. That barrel below is full of dye that she basically replenishes and continues to use. (Jan. 6, 2020)

The actual indigo shrub or plant, the one with the tiny leaves, outside the wonderful indigo shop of Arte Añil (art of indigo dying) around the Parque Central or main square of the colonial town of Suchitoto, El Salvador. It obviously takes quite a bit of these little leaves to produce the natural powder which requires the leaves to be soaked overnight which results in the water turning blue. The mixture is then sun-dried till crisp to remove any moisture and then powdered. The Spanish called indigo ‘Blue Gold.’ (Jan. 6, 2020)

Inside the local fresh fruit Inside the local fresh fruit and vegetable market at Suchitoto, El Salvador. (Jan. 6, 2020)

The corner bus station off the Parque Central or main square in Suchitoto, El Salvador. (Jan. 6, 2020)

Although this looks like a beautifully residential decorated door with Christmas lights in the Suchitoto neighborhood, the stamped bird and flower to the left of the door has a very meaningful message. The feminist movement in El Salvador launched a feminist collective to address the systemic violence being perpetrated against Salvadoran women. (Jan. 6, 2020)

A close-up of the spray painted, stamped message in front of homes in Suchitoto, El Salvador, translated in English states: In this house we want a life without violence towards women. (Jan. 6, 2020)

The residential area, with self-employment initiatives, during our walk from the town of Suchitoto. (Jan. 6, 2020)

Walking on the cobblestoned streets through the residential neighborhoods outside of the town of Suchitoto, El Salvador. (Jan. 6, 2020)

A home in a residential neighborhood away from the town of Suchitoto in El Salvador. (Jan. 6, 2020)

The cobblestoned streets through a neighborhood outside the town of Suchitoto, El Salvador. (Jan. 6, 2020)

Our tour group enjoying a walk through the cobblestoned streets of a neighborhood from the town of Suchitoto. (Jan. 6, 2020)

A woman selling her hats from her home as we walked through a neighborhood from the town of Suchitoto. (Jan. 6, 2020)

Walking from the town of Suchitoto to the man-made Lake Suchitlan in El Salvador. (Jan. 6, 2020)

What is known today as Lake Suchitlan, a man-made lake, was formed in the mid-1970s as a result of the construction of the Cerron Grande Hydroelectric Dam in Suchitoto. Even though it really is a beautiful sight, many families were displaced and archaeological sites were lost in creation of the lake. (Jan. 6, 2020)

The man-made Lake Suchitlan in Suchitoto, El Salvador. (Jan. 6, 2020)

Me at the man-made Lake Suchitlan in Suchitoto, El Salvador. (Jan. 6, 2020)

Our tour group hopped the local bus from Lake Suchitlan back to Suchitoto’s Parque Central or main plaza. (Jan. 6, 2020)

Our tour group hopped the local bus from Lake Suchitlan back to Suchitoto’s Parque Central or main plaza. That’s Joe, me and Eliza sitting in front of us. Thank you Indira for the photo! (Jan. 6, 2019)

I’m having a late lunch of pizza at La Lupita del Portal on the main square in Suchitoto. It’s the House Combinations pizza of cojute, sausage and loroco, a local flower that is quite tasty. Plus on the side were hot peppers in some kind of oil and a mix of basil and garlic which was rather tasty too and I enjoyed spreading all over my pizza. (Jan. 6, 2020)

My late lunchtime view of the Santa Lucia Church while enjoying my pizza on the porch of La Lupita del Portal on the main square in Suchitoto. (Jan. 6, 2020)

I’m not one who plans trips around the beach but if it’s a one day, laid back, do what I want, free of activities kind of day, like it was in El Cuco, El Salvador, then a beach day, even with hot weather, works for me.

Our El Coco time actually began Tuesday, as we made our way from Suchitoto, when we stopped in the town of San Miguel to make our own lunch, the Pupusa, the El Salvadorian national dish. Then a quick stop at a Walmart superstore, prevalent even in Central America, for snacks at the beach, plus a few more bathroom stops during our six hours or so of driving.

Here’s the El Esteron Rancho Osorio Arbaiza Playa in El Salvador…most commonly known as the beach, still my third country of my #20countries2020 with #intrepidtravel. Next stop, Leon, Nicaragua.

We ended Tuesday, our first night in El Cuco, admiring the sunset over the North Pacific Ocean, better known as the dark-sand beach of the El Esteron Playa at La Tortuga Verde Hostel & Resort in Intipuca, just outside of El Cuco. Winding back before the gorgeous sunset was driving, Pupusa making and Walmart snack shopping beforehand. We will definitely get back to this beautiful sunset. (Jan. 7, 2020)

I’m at one of our gas station stops, from Suchitoto to El Cuco, checking out the popular DIANA snack brand found in convenience stores. (Jan. 7, 2020)

The Pupusa making restaurant Pupuseria El Mana in San Miguel, El Salvador, where our tour group stopped to learn the art of making our own Pupusas and eating them for lunch. Pupusa, the national dish for El Salvador. The thick cornmeal flatbreads are a classic Salvadorian recipe from the Pipil culture, and are stuffed with items like cheese, beef or chicharron (fried pork). (Jan. 7, 2020)

Two by two our tour group members took turns preparing their Pupusa, the national dish of El Salvador, as our meal for lunch. Fernando, our #intrepidtravel guide stayed close by to help translate instructions from the Pupusa-making specialist, Lucy at Pupuseria El Mana restaurant in San Miguel, El Salvador. That’s Fernando, Kevin, Indira and Isabel. (Jan. 7, 2020)

Fernando, our #intrepidtravel guide stayed close by to help translate instructions from the Pupusa-making specialist Lucy at Pupuseria El Mana restaurant in San Miguel, El Salvador. That’s Donna and Mark. (Jan. 7, 2020)

Julian turned out to be quite the Pupusa making pro. He’s putting his ingredients onto the thick, flattened cornmeal dough. That’s Eliza and Julian getting instructions from the Pupusa-making specialist Lucy at Pupuseria El Mana restaurant in San Miguel, El Salvador. (Jan. 7, 2020)

And last but not least it was my turn to prepare my Pupusa, the national dish of El Salvador, as my meal for lunch at Pupuseria El Mana restaurant in San Miguel, El Salvador. That’s Lachlan, Courtney, Fernando and me. (Jan. 7, 2020)

Me getting instructions on Pupusa-making from the specialist, Lucy at at Pupuseria El Mana restaurant in San Miguel, El Salvador. That’s Fernando, me and Lucy. (Jan. 7, 2020)

I’m laughing because when I threw my very thin Pupusa down on the grill it folded up like an accordion instead of laying flat like a pancake. That’s Lachlan, Fernando, Isabel, me and Joe. Two by two our tour group members took turns preparing their Pupusa, the national dish of El Salvador, as our meal for lunch. Fernando, our #intrepidtravel guide stayed close by to help translate instructions from the Pupusa-making specialist Lucy at Pupuseria El Mana restaurant in San Miguel, El Salvador. (Jan. 7, 2020)

Our tour group stopped to pick up snacks for our two nights of beach resorting a Walmart superstore in San Miguel, El Salvador. I was just surprised to see a Walmart in El Salvador, but Walmart stores are in a number of Central American countries. (Jan. 7, 2020)

More DIANA snack products at the Walmart superstore in San Miguel as our tour group made our way to El Cuco for two nights at the beach. (Jan. 7, 2020)

Oddly enough chocolate, at least the Hershey chocolate, were more expensive at the Walmart superstore in the San Miguel, El Salvador, compared to the same chocolates in the US at the same store. But that did not stop me from buying a bag of chocolate kisses. (Jan. 7, 2020)

We arrived a couple of hours before sunset Tuesday evening and were treated to some beautiful views on the El Esteron Playa or beach at the La Tortuga Verde Hostel & Resort close to El Cuco, El Salvador. This is the common room entrance to three separate rooms or single rooms for myself and two other single tour group travelers. The rooms were just a few feet from the beach. (Jan. 7, 2020)

My very plain room at the El Esteron Playa at the La Tortuga Verde Hostel & Resort close to El Cuco, El Salvador, and just a few steps from the beach. (Jan. 7, 2020)

Our common or extra room with our three singles rooms attached at the El Esteron Playa or beach at the La Tortuga Verde Hostel & Resort close to El Cuco, El Salvador. (Jan. 7, 2020)

The short trail to the El Esteron Playa or beach from my room at the La Tortuga Verde Hostel & Resort close to El Cuco, El Salvador. (Jan. 7, 2020)

The bar, by the beach, at the La Tortuga Verde Hostel & Resort close to El Cuco, El Salvador, where I was introduced to Smirnoff Ice and very much liked it. (Jan. 7, 2020)

The beachside area at La Tortuga Verde Hostel & Resort close to El Cuco, El Salvador, where a group could hang out, like our tour group did, order food and drinks and have them brought to you with full views of the beach and the sunsets. (Jan. 7, 2020)

The beautiful Tuesday night setting sun at El Esteron Playa at the La Tortuga Verde Hostel & Resort close to El Cuco. (Jan. 7, 2020)

My plan at the La Tortuga Verde Hostel & Resort close to El Cuco was to the wonderful seafood starting with this whole grilled fish and baked potato, which did not disappoint. A wonderful meal to end a very full and tiring day! (Jan. 7, 2020)

I slept in with an unusual 10 hours of sleep under my belt, strolled to this location and view of the beach at the La Tortuga Verde Hostel & Resort close to El Cuco and when I was ready, ordered a lunch of fresh baby shrimp sautéed in garlic & olive oil and accompanied with crackers. And, for my drink, coconut water, right from the coconut. While pretty much all of my #intrepidtravel tour mates hit the beach on this free day, I enjoyed time to relax, write and just take in the beautiful scenery. (Jan. 8, 2020)

The views along the El Esteron Playa or beach from the ground of our hotel, La Tortuga Verde Hostel & Resort close to El Cuco, El Salvador. (Jan. 8, 2020)

The pelicans calling the beach home at La Tortuga Verde Hostel & Resort, close to El Cuco. (Jan. 8, 2020)

Our #intrepidtravel group hanging out after sunset Wednesday night enjoying the breeze and the company steps from the beach as we wait for our dinner to arrive. From left: Julian, Eliza, Courtney, Lachlan, Fernando, Mark, Donna and Indira. (Jan. 8, 2020)

The food has arrived and we’re all digging in beachside at La Tortuga Verde Hostel & Resort close to El Cuco, El Salvador. (Jan. 8, 2020)

I knew when I woke up Wednesday morning that I would be having night’s dinner, fresh whole lobster grilled in a garlic sauce, baked potato and a side of butter with chunks of garlic in it. I’ve most assuredly enjoyed my beachside meals here at the La Tortuga Verde Hostel & Resort in El Salvador. (Jan. 8, 2020)

Fernando, our #intrepidtravel guide, getting in a group selfie while we chow down on our meal at the El Esteron Playa, the beach, right at our footsteps, while staying at the La Tortuga Verde Hostel & Resort in El Cuco. From left: Fernando, Mark, Kevin, Donna, Indira, me, Joe, Julian, Eliza, Courtney and Lachlan. What a wonderful group of people to hang out with. (Jan. 8, 2020)

Nicaragua – León & Granada

We left the beach of El Cuco at 5:00 am Thursday morning with Leon, Nicaragua, being our ultimate destination for the day. But between the six hours or so of driving, we crossed two borders from El Salvador back into Honduras and after a couple hours we crossed from Honduras into Nicaragua, the last country of this four country Central America tour with #intrepidtravel

León is known for its churches and revolutionary murals. Here’s to León, the charming colonial city in Nicaragua and the 4th country of my #20countries2020 with #intrepidtravel. Next and final stop, Granada, Nicaragua.

Me on the impressive roof of the Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary in León, Nicaragua, which has 34 domes and grand views of the city. (Jan. 9, 2020)

The Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary in León is considered a significantly important and historic landmark in Nicaragua. The Cathedral’s construction lasted between 1747 and 1814 and was consecrated by Pope Pius IX in 1860. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. (Jan. 9, 2020)

Inside the Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary in León, Nicaragua, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (Jan. 9, 2020)

The altar inside the Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary in León, Nicaragua. (Jan. 9, 2020)

The impressive roof of the Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary in León, Nicaragua, with its church bells and huge sculptures. (Jan. 9, 2020)

The impressive roof of the Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary in León, Nicaragua, with its 34 domes. (Jan. 9, 2020)

Grand views of León, Nicaragua, from the impressive roof of the Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary. (Jan. 9, 2020)

The impressive roof of the Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary in León, Nicaragua. (Jan. 9, 2020)

Standing by the Parque Central in León are La Gigantona and El Enano Cabezon, folklore characters initially created by Nicaraguan mestizos (a mix of the Spaniards and the native people). La Gigantona represents the tall white Spanish woman that came with the conquistadors and usually wears a colorful dress and ornamentation. And, El Enano Cabezon is a small figure with a big head symbolizing the intelligent mestizo. (Jan. 9, 2020)

La Gigantona standing behind me by the Parque Central in León, Nicaragua. (Jan. 9, 2020)

Street views of León, Nicaragua. (Jan. 9, 2020)

Revolutionary mural art in León, Nicaragua. (Jan. 9, 2020)

A close-up of one of the revolutionary mural art paintings in León, commemorating the July 23, 1959 massacre of students at the hands of the military. (Jan. 9, 2020)

Revolutionary wall mural in León, Nicaragua, inspired by revolutionary Augusto César Sandino with his foot on top of dictator Anastasio Somoza Debayle. His guerrilla army won a short-lived victory for socialist policies. (Jan. 9, 2020)

Revolutionary wall mural in León, Nicaragua, inspired by revolutionary Augusto César Sandino with his foot on top of Uncle Sam. His guerrilla army won a short-lived victory for socialist policies. (Jan. 9, 2020)

Our group dinner at Porky’s House in León, Nicaragua, and I chose this recipe from Cuba….tender Cuban piglet (shredded meat, not the whole pig) with yucca and rice. I’m not a fan of Yucca, but I did taste it and requested papas fritas or fried potatoes instead. (Jan. 9, 2020)

Our tour group enjoying dinner at Porky’s House in León, Nicaragua. Although no meals were included in the cost of this entire tour, that definitely hasn’t stopped us from eating rather well and as a group…with restaurant selection help from our tour leader Fernando, of course. (Jan. 9, 2020)

León, Nicaragua’s Parque Central. (Jan. 9, 2020)

Vendors selling colorful garments and souvenirs around León, Nicaragua’s Parque Central. (Jan. 9, 2020)

Vendors around León, Nicaragua’s Parque Central selling bags of plantain chips. (Jan. 9, 2020)

I found this yellow, rustic, crumbling church to be extraordinarily beautiful. It is the Iglesia de la Recolección in León, Nicaragua. This Mexican-style baroque beauty, constructed in 1786 is just an eye-catching marvel on the outside but simple and sweet on the inside. (Jan. 9, 2020)

The Iglesia de la Recolección in León, Nicaragua. (Jan. 9, 2020)

Inside the Iglesia de la Recolección in León, Nicaragua with its mahogany ceiling decorated with harvest motifs. be sure to stop inside and admire the slender mahogany columns and ceiling decorated with various motifs including Jesus on the cross. (Jan. 10, 2020)

The altar inside the Iglesia de la Recolección in León, Nicaragua. (Jan. 10, 2020)

A close-up of the gorgeous mahogany wood ceilings inside the Iglesia de la Recolección in León, Nicaragua. (Jan. 10, 2020)

We approached the end of this Central America journey on Saturday, which seemed rather quick, but there was still more adventures to be had. In this case, it was using public transportation on Friday to get from León to Granada, Nicaragua.

Although our time in Granada, considered the country’s oldest city, was way too short, we packed in some good roaming hours. As much as I love Granada, Spain, the Nicaraguan Granada, even with its Moorish and Andalusian architecture backed by it’s colonial charm, has more of a local, rustic, less touristy feel to it even though it’s considered quite touristic.

But one thing the Spain Granada does not have or anywhere else that I’ve been to and able to see close-up was the bubbling lava of the Masaya volcano. What a WOW that was for me.

And, as short and quick as this trip was, I’ve so enjoyed every minute of it.

Here’s the city of Granada, Nicaragua, the last stop of my “Guatemala & Beyond” #intrepidtravel tour along with a visit to the Masaya volcano as I bring an end to the 4th country of my #20countries2020. Next stop, back home to Dallas, Texas, until my two-month Asia trip begins in early February.