Ethiopia: From Addis Ababa to the Amazing Lalibela

I chose Ethiopia mainly because of the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, which doesn’t come until the end of my 12 days of travel through Ethiopia on Intrepid Travel‘s aptly named Incredible Ethiopia tour.

Here’s a few Ethiopian facts to get us started: Ethiopia became a pre-eminent symbol as the only African nation to successfully resist European conquest when they defeated the Italians in the Battle of Adwa; the major portion of Ethiopia lies in the Horn of Africa, which is the easternmost part of the African landmass; the territories that have frontiers with Ethiopia are Eritrea to the north and then, moving clockwise is Djibouti, Somalia, Kenya, South Sudan and Sudan; Ethiopia and Eritrea use the ancient Ge’ez script, which is one of the oldest alphabets still in use in the world; the country became one of the first Christian nations and according to Ethiopian lore, the Ark of the Covenent containing the stone tables inscribed with the Ten Commandments, is hidden in a church in Aksum and of course there are the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela that were carved deep into the ground. And, one last Ethiopian fact, the country has a vast coffee culture and is revered for its beans.

Intrepid Travel’s map of its 13-day tour of “Incredible Ethiopia.”

Addis Ababa

Addis Ababa is vibrant, chaotic, disheveled, crowded and a capital city that feels completely opposite from that of Khartoum in the Sudan. Leaving the Sudan was honestly emotionally difficult. It is most certainly a country in need of economic repair and the kind Sudanese deserve at least that much! Yet, it is a country full of history, ancient history and it feels untainted by the hustle and bustle of the world. But Addis Ababa with its mixture of economic extremes, most of which appear to be a kind of poverty that felt and seemed so much more extreme than in the Sudan.

For my first full day in Addis Ababa, before my Intrepid Travel tour began, I took a city tour that included a coffee stop before proceeding to a view of Addis Ababa from Mount Entoto, the Ethiopian National Museum, the Shola Market, the Ethiopian Orthodox Church of Saint George’s Cathedral along with varying views of city life.

One of our first stops this morning during a day tour of Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia, was at a coffee shop. The coffee beans are roasted over a warm skillet before being ground and made into fresh, very strong coffee. (Sept. 15, 2019)

Coffee making and coffee drinking is a very strong tradition in Ethiopia. (Sept. 15, 2019)

The capital of Addis Ababa and surrounding area is home to some 8 million people. It’s also a city with many abandoned concrete buildings. (Sept. 15, 2019)

Yes, this is city life in Addis Ababa, the capital city of Ethiopia. (Sept. 15, 2019)

City life in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia’s capital city. (Sept. 15, 2019)

City life in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia’s capital city. (Septl 15, 2019)

City life in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia’s capital city. Yes, playing soccer on a closed highway. (Sept. 15, 2019)

The St. Mary Church of Mount Entoto in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. (Sept. 15, 2019)

A view of the very polluted air over the capital city of Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, and countryside at Entoto Mountain, considered the highest peak. (Sept. 15, 2019)

A woman, resting along the side of the road after carrying this load in Addis Ababa. (Sept. 15, 2019)

Another woman walking on the road carrying a load in Addis Ababa. (Sept. 15, 2019)

We drove through a dense and highly populated area of Shiro Meda in Addis Ababa where people shop and live in small clustered housing and shops. This area however is considered the best spot to buy traditional clothes. (Sept. 15, 2019)

The densely populated residential and shopping area of Shiro Meda in Addis Ababa considered the best spot to purchase traditional handwoven cotton clothes for women. (Sept. 15, 2019)

Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia, is unfortunately littered with these incomplete concrete buildings. (Sept. 15, 2019)

The Ethiopian National Museum in Addis Ababa, contains several archaeological finds such as the fossilized remains of early hominids, the most famous is “Lucy,” the partial skeletal remains of the 3.2 million year-old. The museum also has some collections of arts and crafts, including traditional weapons, jewellery, utensils, clothing and musical instruments, however most of the displays have little to no information about the collection. (Sept. 15, 2019)

The Ethiopian National Museum garden in Addis Ababa contains this sculpture of Haile Selassie I (1892 1975) an Ethiopian regent from 1916 to 1930 and emperor from 1930 to 1974. A defining figure in modern Ethiopian history, this statue shows him giving direction to 12 students. (Sept. 15, 2019)

Statues in the garden of the Ethiopian National Museum in Addis Ababa. (Sept. 15, 2019)

The interior of the Ethiopian National Museum in Addis Ababa. (Sept. 15, 2019)

The remains of the 3.2 million years old “Lucy” discovered near the village Hadar in the Awash Valley of the Afar Triangle in Ethiopia in 1974, the skeleton presents a small skull akin to that of non-hominin apes, plus evidence of a walking-gait akin to that of humans. Lucy, who was short and petite, died as a young adult woman. In Ethiopia she is called Dinknesh which means “You are Wonderful.” (Sept. 15, 2019)

An untitled oil painting on canvas by Kegnegeta Jembere Hayelu at the Ethiopian National Museum in Addis Ababa. (Sept. 15, 2019)

Ethiopian headrests at the Ethiopian National Museum in Addis Ababa. (Sept. 15, 2019)

Emperor Menelik II portrait at the Ethiopian National Museum in Addis Ababa. (Sept. 15, 2019)

The outdoor crowded Shola Market is one of biggest local markets in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. (Sept. 15, 2019)

Saint George’s Cathedral is an Ethiopian Orthodox church in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. The cathedral is noted for its distinctive octagonal form. Unfortunately it was closed today so I didn’t get an opportunity to check out the interior. (Sept. 15, 2019)

A memorial statue of Bishop Abuna Petros erected in 1946 in the courtyard of St. George’s Cathedral in Addis Ababa.
Abuna Petros (1892-1936) was an Ethiopian bishop and martyr, executed on July 29, 1936 by the Italian occupation forces in Ethiopia for publicly condemning colonialism, invasion and massacre. (Sept. 15, 2019)

My hotel, the Sheger Royal Hotel, in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. (Sept. 15, 2019)

My very modern room at the Sheger Royal Hotel in Addis Ababa. (Sept. 14, 2019)

Bahir Dar

My 12-member Intrepid Travel tour group of “Incredible Ethiopia” left the capital city of Addis Ababa early Monday morning on a 50-minute flight to Bahir Dar that took us over the gorgeous and green terrain of the Ethiopian Plateau with its deep gorges.

The town of Bahir Dar is less chaotic than Addis Ababa and definitely more greener and lush. The town is located on the southern shore of Lake Tana which is a source for the Blue Nile.

After arriving in Bahir Dar, getting checked into our hotel and enjoying a relaxing lunch on the patio area, we ventured for our first day of exploration, a boat ride on Lake Tana to the Ura-Kidane Mehret monastery which dates from between the 16th and 18th centuries. It’s renowned and colorful painted walls of the passage of Christ and Ethiopian saints is utterly breathtaking.

Today was also another Blue Nile adventure that involved a short hike, through rocks and mud, to the Blue Nile Falls. Here’s a glimpse of my two days in Bahir Dar, Ethiopia. Tomorrow we travel north to Gondar.

Young men walking along the rocky, muddy road as we traveled through several villages to reach the the Blue Nile Falls in Amhara, Ethiopia. The people, throughout this 22 mile stretch of muddy, rocky road, live…to say the least…live just off the road in mud brick and tree trunk built housing with tin roofs. The drinking water is extremely poor and so are the living conditions. A high percentage of the people are not educated and it is a very young population.

Me at the Ura-Kidane Mehret monastery, an Ethiopian Orthodox church, located on the Zege peninsula around Lake Tana in Ethiopia, that dates from between the 16th and 18th centuries. Ura Kidane Mehret is part of the complex of the Convent of Mercy. Women are required to cover their heads, men are required to take off their hats and everyone is required to take off their shoes. (Sept. 16, 2019)

The gorgeous African tulip trees along with palm trees cover the roadway through Bahir Dar, Ethiopia, as we make our way to the boat dock for our ride on Lake Tana to the Ura-Kidane Mehret monastery, an Ethiopian Orthodox church, located on the Zege peninsula around Lake Tana in Ethiopia. (Sept. 18, 2019)

The gorgeous African tulip trees along with palm trees cover the roadway through Bahir Dar as we make our way to the boat dock for our ride on Lake Tana to the Ura-Kidane Mehret monastery, an Ethiopian Orthodox church, located on the Zege peninsula around Lake Tana in Ethiopia. (Sept. 16, 2019)

The town of Bahir Dar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 16, 2019)

Boarding our boat at Bahir Dar to cruise through Lake Tana for a visit to the Ura-Kidane Mehret monastery, an Ethiopian Orthodox church, on the Zege peninsula. (Sept. 16, 2019)

A man, on his papyrus made boat, and the trailing great white pelicans along Lake Tana at Bahir Dar. (Sept. 16, 2019)

A view of Lake Tana at the Ura Port on our walk to the Ura-Kidane Mehret monastery, an Ethiopian Orthodox church, on the Zege peninsula. (Sept. 16, 2019)

The local craft persons set up about 25 shops along the rocky trail to the Ura-Kidane Mehret monastery, an Ethiopian Orthodox church, to sell their art, jewelry, drums and white cotton/embroidered shawls. The walk was difficult enough without the people, selling their items along the way, trying to get my attention “Look lady.” (Sept. 16, 2019)

The extremely rocky, and I mean large mis-shaped protruding rocks that covered the walkway to the Ura-Kidane Mehret monastery, an Ethiopian Orthodox church, located on the Zege peninsula around Lake Tana in Ethiopia. (Sept. 16, 2019)

The gated entrance to the circular Ura-Kidane Mehret monastery, an Ethiopian Orthodox church, on the Zege peninsula around Lake Tana. (Sept. 16, 2019)

Me at the circular Ura-Kidane Mehret monastery on the island named after the church, on the Zege peninsula around Lake Tana, which was founded in the 14th century by the saint Betre Mariyam. (Sept. 16, 2019)

Inside the circular Ura-Kidane Mehret monastery, an Ethiopian Orthodox Church, on the Zege peninsula around Lake Tana, that dates from the 16th century. (Sept. 16, 2019)

Our Intrepid Travel tour guide, Yohannes, explaining the history of the interior paintings of the Ura-Kidane Mehret, which date from the 16th century at the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, on the Zege peninsula around Lake Tana. (Sept. 16, 2019)

These gorgeous religious paintings of the Ura-Kidane Mehret monastery interior, an Ethiopian Orthodox Church, replicates various biblical scenes and saints, but just as importantly, these paintings reflect the African features of the local community on the Zege peninsula around Lake Tana. Seeing Christian stories depicted with African images was emotionally moving for me because I grew up in the American Catholic Church seeing only Caucasian images pictured in biblical scenes. (Sept. 16, 2019)

The large wood encased entryways of the circular Ura-Kidane Mehret monastery, an Ethiopian Orthodox Church, on the Zege peninsula around Lake Tana. (Sept. 16, 2019)

The gorgeous religious paintings of the Ura-Kidane Mehret monastery interior, an Ethiopian Orthodox Church on the Zege peninsula around Lake Tana. (Sept. 16, 2019)

Views of the town of Bahir Dar, Ethiopia. The city is known for its wide avenues lined with palm trees and a variety of colorful flowers. In 2002 it was awarded the UNESCO Cities for Peace Prize for addressing the challenges of rapid urbanization. (Sept. 17, 2019)

Views of the town of Bahir Dar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 17, 2019)

Views of the town of Bahir Dar, Ethiopia. Tuk tuks are a popular form of transportation but it’s also possible to share the paved roads with cows and other animals. (Sept. 17, 2019)

Leaving the paved roads of Bahir Dar towards the Blue Nile Falls which took us through about 20-plus miles of muddy, rocky, potholed roads and several villages. (Sept. 17, 2019)

Young men walking along the rocky, muddy road as we traveled through several villages to reach the the Blue Nile Falls in Amhara, Ethiopia. (Sept. 17, 2019)

Sharing the muddy, rocky potholed roads with buses, people and animals as we made our way towards the Blue Nile Falls, in Amhara. (Sept. 17, 2019)

A clothing shop along the 20-plus miles of muddy, rocky road to the Blue Nile Falls just outside of Bahir Dar. (Sept. 17, 2019)

A selfie as two group members and myself cross the Blue Nile with a guide and locals to walk about 30 minutes through the mud and rocks to reach the Blue Nile Falls, Ethiopia’s waterfall. (Sept. 17, 2019)

The field we walked through for about 30 minutes to reach the Blue Nile Falls, Ethiopia’s waterfall. (Sept. 17, 2019)

The 30 minute walk to reach the Blue Nile Falls, Ethiopia’s waterfall, was green, muddy and rocky. (Sept. 17, 2019)

Me having finally reached the Blue Nile Falls with Mitiku, one of the many young men looking to make money by helping tourists, on the Blue Nile River in Amhara, just outside of Bahir Dar, Ethiopia. He helped me maneuver through the rocks and trail. But he did not do this out of the kindness of his heart. He expected payment, which I was more than happy to do. This is how many of the young men who show up at sites like this make money. Although the Falls were rather powerful today, a 2003 hydro-electric station has taken much of the flow out of the falls except during the present rainy season. (Sept. 17, 2019)

Me at the Blue Nile Falls, a waterfall on the Blue Nile River in Amhara, Ethiopia, just outside of Bahir Dar. (Sept. 17, 2019)

Me and my Intrepid Travel tour group at the Blue Nile Falls in Ethiopia, with our tour guide Yohannes. (Sept. 17, 2019)

The walk back to our bus through a small village about a 30 minute walk to the Blue Nile Falls, a waterfall on the Blue Nile River, just outside of Bahir Dar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 17, 2019)

The views of the gorgeous land along the the muddy, rocky 22 mile road, through several villages back to Bahir Dar for a late group lunch. (Sept. 17, 2019)

Passing a group of children waving at us as we drive by along the 22 mile muddy, rocky road back to Bahir Dar for lunch. (Sept. 17, 2019)

This is Samir Abbass, owner and operator of the Real Sudan tour company and to my surprise, we were at the same restaurant in Bahir Dar having lunch. Me with my Intrepid Travel tour group and him with his tour group. I can’t even express, once we realized who the other person was, how utterly happy I was to see him and meet him in person. Again Samir, thank you so very much! (Sept. 17, 2019)

Travel from Bahir Dar to Gondar thru the Amhara Villages

The bus drives from place to place can be very tiring but the sights along the way are not.

Today was all about the sights of the Amhara region, one of the nine ethnic divisions of Ethiopia, during our close to five hours of travel from Bahir Dar, along Highway 3, to the regal city of Gondar.

The Ethiopian Civil War, fought between the Ethiopian military junta communist governments and Ethio-Eritrean anti-government rebels from September 1974 to June 1991, left at least 1.4 million people dead, with 1 million of the deaths being related to famine and the remainder from combat and other violence. About 100,000 young men from the Amhara region fought against the Communists.

So, for now, here are a number of various villages and the everyday lives of the Amhara villagers as we make our way from Bahir Dar to Gondar.

The women gathering to talk and work. (Sept. 18, 2019)

A market area and the tuk tuks that provide transportation. (Sept. 18, 2019)

A village market area where the people gather. (Sept. 18, 2019)

Farmland along the way to Gondar. It is not unusual to share the highways with farmers and their animals. (Sept. 18, 2019)

Plastic containers lined up for water. (Sept. 18, 2019)

The beautiful green land of the Amhara region of Ethiopia. (Sept. 18, 2019)

A young boy by the rice fields of the Amhara region. (Sept. 18, 2019)

More young boys by the rice fields of the Amhara region. (Sept. 18, 2019)

Children playing around a water well in the rice fields of the Amhara region. (Sept. 18, 2019)

The protruding rock is called the ‘Hand of God’ rock in the Amhara region. (Sept. 18, 2019)

While stopping to stretch and take photos of the ‘Hand of God’ rock in the Amhara region. Any and every time we stop, we are swarmed by children and even sometimes adults, some out of curiosity and others looking for something. They my not know many English words but hey do know the word ‘money.’ That’s our van transporting our group of 12 travelers. (Sept. 18, 2019)

The yellow candle bush in the Amhara region. (Sept. 18, 2019)

A village in the Amhara region. (Sept. 18, 2019)

Getting closer to Gondar, we pass another village in the Amhara region. Kifle Hager, Amhara, Ethiopia. (Sept. 18, 2019)

Me at the Goha Hotel in Gondar enjoying a familiar shot of Malibu Caribbean Rum with Coconut Liqueur with a late lunch and views of Gondar. (Sept. 18, 2019)

Gondar

We traveled north from Bahir Dar, in our group bus yesterday, to the former 17th and 18th centuries capital of Ethiopia, the city of Gondar. It is famed for its medieval castles and churches. The city was founded by Emperor Fasiledes when he broke with the tradition of moving through the Ethiopian territories to found Gondar as his capital and create Fasil Ghebbi or Fasiledes castle also known as the Royal Enclosure.

And, today, we visited the remains of Fasil Ghebbi, the fortress city also called the Royal Enclosure, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, consisting of Emperor-built castles showcasing the prosperity of Ethiopia in the 17th and 18th centuries. Additionally, we visited the church of Debre Berhan Selassie with its walls and ceilings covered with in ancient murals of angels. And Emperor Fasiledes Bath & Horse Cage, one of the areas where the annual Timkat Festival takes place in celebration of the baptism of Jesus Christ in the River Jordan. Here’s Ethiopia’s royal and ancient historical city of Gondar.

Me with the Castle of Emperor Fasiledes behind me within the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar, Ethiopia. Emperor Fasiledes founded and settled in Gondar, making it the capital in 1636. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The remains of Fasil Ghebbi, the fortress city in Gondar also called the Royal Enclosure, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, consisting of Emperor-built castles showcasing the prosperity of Ethiopia in the 17th and 18th centuries. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Standing at the top of the rocky staircase of the Castle of Emperor Fasilides (1632-1667) within the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar, Ethiopia. I’m liking out at just a portion of the palace compound grounds which is enclosed by a wall pierced by twelve gates. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Inside the reception hall of the Castle of Emperor Fasiledes (1632 to 1667) within the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Exiting the Castle of Emperor Fasiledes (1632 to 1667) within the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The Castle of Emperor Iyasu I the Great (1682-1706) within the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The interior of Castle of Emperor Iyasu I the Great (1682-1706) within the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Me outside the Castle of Emperor Iyasu I the Great (1682-1706) within the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The Castle of Emperor Fasiledes (1632 to 1667) within the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The Castle of Emperor Iyasu I (1682-1706) (left) and the Castle of Emperor Fasiledes (1632 to 1667) (right) in the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar. (Sept. 19, 2016)

A beautiful mother and her son at the Royal Enclosure in Gondar, who looked so regal, especially the mother in her traditional yet modern “Habesha kemis,” a long white dress decorated with embroidery. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The Royal Thermal Bath within the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The interior of the Royal Thermal Bath within the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The horse stables (left) and banqueting hall (right) within the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The horse stables (left) and banqueting hall (right) within the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Walking down the horse stables area that leads to the banqueting hall within the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

My selfie inside the banqueting hall within the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The Royal archive building which held hundreds of manuscripts within the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Empress Mentewab built several significant structures in Gondar, including this, her own castle within the Fasil Ghebbi palace compound also known as the Royal Enclosure in Gondar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Shops across from the Royal Enclosure in Gondar, Ethiopia, where my tour group stopped to shop and get a cup of coffee. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The smell of beans roasting and coffee permeates the air. Here a young woman is preparing coffee for several members of my tour group just outside the Royal Enclosure in Gondar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Life on the streets of Gondar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The statue of King Emperor Tewodros II at the Piazza Arada, a center square, in the city of Gondar. Tewodros II was Emperor of Ethiopia from 1855 until his death in 1868. When he became emperor, he set out to reunify and modernize Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The walled and gated entrance to the Debre Berhan Selassie sanctuary in Gondar, Ethiopia. The sanctuary was very nearly destroyed, like most of Gondar’s other churches, when the marauding Sudanese dervishes showed up at the church gates in the 1880s only to be met, according to local legend, by a giant swarm of bees that chased the invaders away. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Inside the walled and gated entrance to the Debre Berhan Selassie sanctuary in Gondar which was very nearly destroyed, like most of Gondar’s other churches, when the marauding Sudanese dervishes showed up at the church gates in the 1880s only to be met, according to local legend, by a giant swarm of bees that chased the invaders away. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The 17th century Debre Birhan Selassie Church is the only remaining church that survived the repeated destructions of Gondar at the hands of the Dervish (Egypto-Sudanse), Italians and British. The original sanctuary was a circular church created in the 1690s by Emperor Iyasu I that was destroyed by lightning. When the Mahdist Dervishes of the Sudan sacked the city of Gondar in 1888, they burned down every church in the city except for this church. According to local legend, when the Mahdist soldiers approached the church, a swarm of bees decended on the compound of the church and kept the soldiers back. (Sept. 19, 2019)

A close-up of the front of the 17th century Debre Birhan Selassie Church in Gondar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

A close-up of the 17th century Debre Birhan Selassie Church in Gondar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The women’s south entrance to the sanctuary of Debre Berhan Selassie in Gondar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Inside the sanctuary of Debre Berhan Selassie in Gondar, Ethiopia, looking towards the altar. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Inside the sanctuary of Debre Berhan Selassie in Gondar at the altar are the icons of the Holy Trinity (three identical men with halos) and the Crucifixion. (Sept. 19, 2019)

On the ceiling inside the Debre Berhan Selassie, sanctuary in Gondar, Ethiopia, are the faces of hundreds of angels. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Inside the sanctuary of Debre Berhan Selassie in Gondar are a variety of Biblical paintings including this depiction of the crucifixion of Jesus Christ. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The story of Mary inside the sanctuary of Debre Berhan Selassie in Gondar. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Inside the sanctuary of Debre Berhan Selassie in Gondar is the story of Mary. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Inside the sanctuary of Debre Berhan Selassie in Gondar, Ethiopia. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Inside the sanctuary of Debre Berhan Selassie in Gondar, Ethiopia. Above the altar are the icons of the Holy Trinity (three identical men with halos) and the Crucifixion. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Me at the Emperor Fasiledes Bath & Horse Cage in Gondar which was thought to have been the summer retreat for the Emperor of Ethiopia and the royal family. The Baths are still use as part of the annual Timket Festival in January. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Emperor Fasiledes Bath & Horse Cage in Gondar, Ethiopia. The pool is filled with clean water and blessed by priests every year for the Timket Festival, which is celebrated on January 19th. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The wall and guard towers surrounding the Emperor Fasiledes Bath & Horse Cage in Gondar with its 400 to 500 year-old fig tree roots growing into the walls. (Sept. 19, 2019)

The amazing views of Gondar’s city center from the terrace of Goha Hotel where our group spent two nights. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Views of Gondar from the terrace of Goha Hotel where our group spent two nights. In the distance the fortress city remains and the Royal Enclosure complex. (Sept. 19, 2019)

Views of Gondar from the terrace of Goha Hotel where our group spent two nights. (Sept. 19, 2019)

A day in the Simien Mountains National Park

The Simiens’ landscape is incredibly dramatic. It was formed by countless eruptions some 40 million years ago; layer upon layer of molten lava piled up. The subsequent erosion produced the mountains’ jagged and spectacular landscapes.” — Lonely Planet Ethiopia & Djibouti (Travel Guide) by Lonely Planet, Jean-Bernard Carillet, et al.

The Simien Mountains National Park in Ethiopia is nothing like the game parks in South Africa. Simien is all about the incredibly dramatic landscape that was formed by countless eruptions, according to people more knowledgeable than me, some 400 million years ago. And, today, our Intrepid Travel tour group spent time enjoying the mountainside views.

For me, it was all about the sights along our 2.5 hour bus drive from Gondar to Debark, our home base for tonight. Thankfully the beauty of Ethiopia’s landscape is not restricted to the park, but the park food have its own sights.

Tomorrow is an all day bus ride to the fabled city of Aksum, crossing the lowlands of the Simien Mountains and the Tekeze River gorge. But for now, here’s the journey from Gondar to Debark and the Simien Mountains National Park in Ethiopia.

Me with the park rangers who accompanied our Intrepid Travel tour group on our trek through the Simien Mountains National Park in Ethiopia. All three carried a rifle including the woman ranger I am sitting next to. The rangers accompany tourists because there have been some robbery issues and since the Debark community and the park profit from tourism, it is important to the locals that the tourists are safe. The park is owned by the government and the park rangers work for the government. (Sept. 20, 2019)

Simien Mountains National Park close to Debark for this gorgeous view of the Ethiopian highlands. (Sept. 20, 2019)

While we stopped in the gorgeous Ethiopian highlands, on our way from Gondar to Debark, our home base for tonight, we had local visitors check us out. The children seem to rush out to see us no matter where we stop. Some are selling their family’s crafts, some ask for money, some ask for pens and some just want to say ‘hi’ and have a conversation. (Sept. 20, 2019)

Passing villages along our 2.5 hours drive from Gondar to Debark. (Sept. 20, 2019)

Passing villages our drive from Gondar to Debark about 80% of Ethiopians are farmers and they do this back-breaking work without machinery. (Sept. 20, 2019)

Many rural children don’t go to school, instead they begin their farming careers, at least in this case, by tending to the animals, as we pass villages along on our drive from Gondar to Debark, our home base for tonight, and the Simien Mountains National Park. (Sept. 20, 2019)

Many rural children in villages don’t go to school, instead they begin their farming careers, at least in this case, by tending to the animals. (Sept. 20, 2019)

Family and friends gather at a funeral service for a member of their community along our drive from Gondar to Debark. (Sept. 20, 2019)

Passing by the market in the town of Debark, Ethiopia, our home base for tonight, as we made our way up to the Simien Mountains National Park. (Sept. 20, 2019)

At the end of the market area in Debark were these young men sitting outside with their sewing machines. I wish I knew what they were making. (Sept. 20, 2019)

Making our way up the gravel road to enter Simien Mountains National Park in Ethiopia. (Sept. 20, 2019)

The gorgeous views as we ascend the mountainside at Simien Mountains National Park in Ethiopia. (Sept. 20, 2019)

The Gelada baboons, here at Simien Mountains National Park don’t have natural enemies, evident by their numbers. This was one of several troops of baboons we saw as we traveled through the park. (Sept. 20, 2019)

The Gelada baboons at Simien Mountains National Park are only found in Ethiopia. (Sept. 20, 2019)

A troop of Gelada baboons and Intrepid Travel tour members at Simien Mountains National Park in Ethiopia. The baboons can only be found in Ethiopia while the Intrepid travelers come from all parts of the world, Australia, South Africa, Ireland and of two of us from the USA. (Sept. 20, 2019)

The male Gelada baboon at Simien Mountains National Park in Ethiopia. Their coat is shaggy, resembling a lion, while their chest has a marked ‘red heart’ or patch. (Sept. 20, 2019)

Views of Simien Mountains National Park in Ethiopia. (Sept. 20, 2019)

The view of the gorge at Simien Mountains National Park in Ethiopia with the fog still making its presence known. (Sept. 20, 2019)

Late afternoon views of Simien Mountains National Park in Ethiopia. (Sept. 20, 2019)

Making our way back to our hotel in the town of Debark, Ethiopia, from Simien National Park. (Sept. 20, 2019)

Views as we make our way back to our hotel in the town of Debark, Ethiopia, from Simien National Park. (Sept. 20, 2019)

The area just down the street from our hotel, the Sona in Debark. (Sept. 20, 2019)

That’s our Intrepid Travel van parked outside our one night, basic hotel, the Sono, in Debark. The hotel is close to town and probably the best place to stay while visiting the Simien Mountains National Park.
(Sept. 20, 2019)

My very basic room at the Sono Hotel in Debark. The electricity went off at 9:30 pm. It was cold, but thankfully I was bundled up and I was tired. Plus we had a buffet dinner that I helped myself to about four times, along with a couple glasses of some pretty good red wine…so falling asleep wasn’t a problem. But around midnight I woke up to use the bathroom and found that the darkness was very claustrophobic, even though I love the dark but just not in an unfamiliar place. Thankfully I had my headlamp so I was able to turn it on, find my way around and catch my breathe In what felt like a confining space.
Just when I think I know me, I learn something about myself that I didn’t know. And, as beautiful as the landscape is in Ethiopia, the people live in rather rugged conditions and most definitely minus the modern amenities I’ve been spoiled by and having 24-7 electricity is definitely one of them.
(Sept. 20, 2019)

Driving through the Simien Mountains to Aksum

I’m not sure why a full day of driving when sitting comfortably in the back of a relatively comfortable bus can be so tiring, but it is.

Today was a full day of driving through the unpaved and winding roads of the Simien Mountains to the fabled city of Aksum.

We began the day driving slowly for about two hours through a gravelly rocky and muddy road that was originally built by the Italians before the Ethiopians ran them out of their country and then onto the twists and turns of the winding asphalt road through the Simien Mountains. This was by far a rough and long drive but the views were simply stunning.

The morning fog over the Simien Mountains as our Intrepid tour group makes our way from Debark to Aksum. (Sept. 21, 2019)

Our van stopped along the Simien Mountains road as our Intrepid Tour group stops for a stretch in the morning fog on our way from Debark to Aksum. (Sept. 21, 2019)

Me with the morning fog view of the Simien Mountains as our Intrepid tour groups makes our way from Debark to Aksum in Ethiopia. (Sept. 21, 2019)

The morning fog view of the Simien Mountains as our Intrepid Tour group made our way from Debark to Aksum in Ethiopia. (Sept. 21, 2019)

The muddy switchbacks, along with the muddy roads, as we made our way through the north side of the Simien Mountains from Debark to Aksum, Ethiopia. These roads were actually constructed by the Italian Army. (Sept. 21, 2019)

The muddy switchbacks, along with the muddy roads, as we made our way through the north side of the Simien Mountains from Debark to Aksum, Ethiopia. (Sept. 21, 2019)

A waterfall along the side of the muddy as we made our way through the north side of the Simien Mountains from Debark to Aksum, Ethiopia. (Sept. 21, 2019)

Not sure how our bus made it through the muddy roads, but we did as we made our way through the north side of the Simien Mountains from Debark to Aksum, Ethiopia. (Sept. 21, 2019)

Children who live along the Simien Mountainside running behind our Intrepid Travel tour group van. (Sept. 21, 2019)

The drive through the Simien Mountains on our way from Debark to Aksum. (Sept. 21, 2019)

Driving through one of several villages on our way from Debark to Aksum. (Sept. 21, 2019)

We had already spent two hours driving on the gravel and muddy road north side of the Simien Mountains, on our way to Aksum when we crossed this bridge, built by the Communists around 1989, over the Takesi River as we continue to made our way to Aksum, Ethiopia, now on asphalt roads. (Sept. 21, 2019)

Whenever and wherever we stop children and adults come to meet us. Some are curious. Some want to sell their crafts. Some want to say hello and others are looking for money, to be precise. But just about every village we drove through, it’s the children that yell at us, mostly ‘you, you, you,’ and wave at us as we drive by. This was a quick rest break on our way from Debark to Aksum along the Simien Mountains in Ethiopia. (Sept. 21, 2019)

Getting in a selfie during a break along the side of a road to catch this spectacular view of the Simien Mountains on our way to Aksum. (Sept. 21, 2019)

The highway along the Simien Mountains on our way to Aksum. (Sept. 21, 2019)

I sat in the back of the bus today, on our day’s ride from Debark to Aksum, Ethiopia, getting in some road shots along the way. (Sept. 21, 2019)

Sharing the asphalt roads with people and animals as we make our way from Debark to Aksum, Ethiopia. (Sept. 21, 2019)

My tour group stopping for a coffee and toilet break in the town of Adiarkay as we made our way from Debark to Aksum, Ethiopia. (Sept. 21, 2019)

Saturday is market day for most of the towns and villages in Ethiopia and the town of Adiarkay, as we made our way from Debark to Aksum. (Sept. 21, 2019)

Live animal market at Adiarkay, Ethiopia, as we made our way from Debark to Aksum. (Sept. 21, 2019)

A bus of commuters broke down along the side of the as we made our way to Aksum. (Sept. 21, 2019)

Stopping to stretch and get in a bathroom nature break while enjoying the beautiful views of the Simien Mountains as we made our way to Aksum.
(Sept. 21, 2019)

Aksum

Our day long drive from Debark got us into Aksum, Ethiopia, at the Yared Zema Hotel late Saturday afternoon.

But we didn’t start exploring the capital of Africa’s oldest empire, the Kingdom of Aksum, until Sunday. The empire, which lasted from 1 AD to 700 AD, grew to rank amongst the most powerful kingdoms of the ancient world. It was positioned at the centre of an important trading route that stretched from Egypt to the Mediterranean Sea and all the way to India and Sri Lanka.

The Axumite society was rich, well organized and technically advanced. In this period, bronze, silver and gold coins were produced, amazing tombs and monoliths were constructed and Christianity was introduced to Ethiopia.

I felt more wowed by Gonder than I did Aksum, but legends and stelae live large in this Tigray Region that’s near the base of the Adwa Mountains. Here’s some of what I got to see in Aksum, Ethiopia: Centuries-old St. Mary of Zion Christian church believed to house the biblical Ark of the Covenant; the tall, carved obelisks; a mausoleum; a stone monument documenting the conversion of a king to Christianity; Axumite Kingdom palace and tombs of father and son kings; the legendary Queen of Sheba and modern day views of the town of Aksum or Axum.

According to legend, the Queen of Sheba was from Ethiopia and she traveled to Jerusalem where she was seduced by King Solomon and gave birth to Menelik when she returned back to Ethiopia. As a young man of 20, Menelik journeyed to Jerusalem to meet his father and eventually brought the Ark of the Covenant back to Ethiopia, which is said to be housed in the Chapel of Tablet at the Our Lady Mary of Zion complex.

“Historians might like to insist that little is known about the founding of the Aksumite Kingdom, but ask the average Ethiopian and they’ll tell you something very different. Aksum, they will say, was founded by none other than the Great-Grandson of Noah, Aksumawi. His new kingdom flourished for a while, but one day Wainaba, a giant snake, 170 cubits long, attacked the city, killed the king and then ruled for 400 dark years. The snake was a foul-tempered and dangerous creature and in order to placate him the people of Aksum fed him a diet of milk and virgins. Eventually salvation came in the form of a man named Angabo who, crossing the Red Sea from the land of the Sabeans, offered to kill the serpent in exchange for the throne. The people of Aksum agreed, but rather than fighting the serpent as the Aksumites expected, Angabo proved himself wise and fed the serpent a goat laced with poison. The kingdom quickly recovered, Angabo married and had a daughter. That daughter was named Makeda and on her father’s death she became the woman we today know as the Queen of Sheba,” according to Lonely Planet’s travel guide on Ethiopia & Djibouti by Jean-Bernard Carillet.

The new Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, an Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo church, in Aksum, was built in 1964-65. This new church, an old church and the Chapel of the Tablet, said to house the Ark of the Covenant are all a part of the Our Lady Mary of Zion complex. This is a front view of the new church but the original church remains, also part of the complex, is believed to have been built during the reign of King Ezana, the first Christian ruler of the Kingdom of Axum (which is now Eritrea and Ethiopia), during the 4th century AD. The old church was rebuilt several times since then. (Sept. 22, 2019)

In the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion complex in Aksum is the chapel, (right), where the Ark of the Covenant is said to be. According to legend, the Queen of Sheba who was from Ethiopia traveled to Jerusalem where she was seduced by King Solomon and gave birth to Menelik upon returning back to Ethiopia. As a young man Menelik journeyed to Jerusalem to meet his father and eventually he brought the Ark of the Covenant back to Ethiopia. (Sept. 22, 2019)

The Chapel of the Tablet said to house the Biblical Ark of the Covenant, which lie the Tablets of Stone inscribing the Ten Commandments at the complex of the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, an Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church, in Aksum, Ethiopia. The contents of the chapel are carefully guarded at all times. (Sept. 22, 2019)

The Chapel of the Tablet (left) and the remains of the original Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion believed to have been built around 330 to 356 AD during the reign of King Ezana, the first Christian ruler of the Kingdom of Axum. The chapel and church remains are part of the complex of the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, an Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church, in Aksum, Ethiopia.
Queen Sheba visited King Solomon in Jerusalem three thousand years ago, and the son she bore him, Menelik, at age 20 visited Jerusalem, from where he brought the Ark of the Covenant back to Aksum. (Sept. 22, 2019)

The remains of the original Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion built around 330 to 356 AD during the reign of King Ezana, the first Christian ruler of the Kingdom of Axum. The chapel and church remains are part of the complex of the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, an Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church, in Aksum, Ethiopia. (Sept. 22, 2019)

The entrance gate to the Chapel of the Tablet said to house the Biblical Ark of the Covenant, in which lie the Tablets of Stone inscribing the Ten Commandments. The chapel is part of the complex of the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, an Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church, in Aksum, Ethiopia. (Sept. 22, 2019)

Remains of the original Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, possibly built during the reign of King Ezana, the first Christian ruler of the Kingdom of Axum, from around 330 to 356 AD. And behind the church remains is the monastery for men only. The church remains and the monastery are part of the complex of the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, an Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church, in Aksum, Ethiopia. (Sept. 22, 2019)

The sign stating “Women are not allowed in to the monastery church” in the distance. The monastery is part of the complex of the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, an Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church, in Aksum, Ethiopia. (Sept. 22, 2019)

Me standing by the broken Great Stelae in the Main Stelae Field or Northern Stelae Park in Aksum, Ethiopia. The area was established as the cemetery of the Aksumite rulers and the stelae were probably carved and erected during the 4th century AD by subjects of the ancient Ethiopian civilization known as the Kingdom of Aksum. (Sept. 22, 2019)

The Northern Stelae Park or Main Stelae Field in Aksum, Ethiopia, with the Great Stelae lying broken on top of the Mausoleum and the tall, carved King Ezana’s Stelae with other smaller uncarved or decorated stelae. (Sept. 22, 2019)

The central passage inside the Mausoleum under the fallen Great Stelae at the Northern Stelae Park or Main Stelae Field in Aksum, Ethiopia. The Mausoleum had been used for the internment of ten or more individuals. It dates back to the mid-4th century AD and was a royal cemetery with two portals for entry and this one central passage. (Sept. 22, 2019)

The carved King Ezana’s Stelae at the Northern Stelae Park or Main Stelae Field in Aksum, Ethiopia, was taken from this site during the Italian occupation of Ethiopia and carried away to Rome as a war trophy. It was returned to Aksum in 2005 and re-erected it in 2008. (Sept. 22, 2019)

An close-up of the carved King Ezana’s Stelae at the Northern Stelae Park or Main Stelae Field in Aksum, Ethiopia, which was taken from this site during the Italian occupation of Ethiopia and eventually returned. It is ornamented with two false doors at the base and features decorations resembling windows on all sides. (Sept. 22, 2019)

The King Ezana Stelae (left) and the 3rd Stelae (right) at the Main Stelae Field in Aksum. The King Ezana Stelae (left) was taken away during the Italian occupation of Ethiopia returned to Aksum in 2005. The 3rd Stelae (right) is the only stelae that has remained standing but now requires support. (Sept. 22, 2019)

This small rock shack contains the Ezana Stone, documenting the conversion of King Ezana to Christianity, is within walking distance of the Main Stelae Field in Ethiopia. The young men followed our tour group from site to site to get people in our group to buy things like crosses, necklaces and bracelets. It’s not unusual to draw a crowd of locals when we stop at a historical site or any site for that matter. (Sept. 22, 2019)

The Ezana Stone encased in a glass box inside a small rock shack in Aksum, Ethiopia, is a memorial inscription belonging to the 4th century Aksumite King Ezana. It is inscribed in Greek, Sabaean and Ge’ez scripts. In this inscription King Ezana announces his victories over his enemies and his conversion to Christianity. The Kingdom of Aksum was at its height under Emperor Ezana, who was born c. 321 and credited for introducing Christianity to Aksum. He died in c. 360. (Sept. 22, 2019)

The Ezana Stone, a document stele from the ancient Kingdom of Aksum about the conversion of King Ezana to Christianity and his conquests of neighboring areas, including Meroë in the Sudan. Three farmers stumbled upon the stone document in 1988. It is considered as the Ethiopian version of the Rosetta Stone. (Sept. 22, 2019)

Me at a group lunch between activities at the AB Traditional Special Restaurant in Aksum. The food throughout Ethiopia has been descent. (Sept. 22, 2019)

A group lunch between activities today at the AB Traditional Special Restaurant in Aksum. The food here has been descent. (Sept. 22, 2019)

The interior of the AB Traditional Special Restaurant in Aksum. (Sept. 22, 2019)

A poster of the local beer, Habesha, distinguished by its golden color, is brewed from Ethiopia’s best water, directly sourced from the highland grounds of Debre Birhan, where prime quality yeast, barley malt and hops are brewed to make their beer. (Sept. 22, 2019)

Habesha beer bottles distinguished by its golden color is brewed from Ethiopia’s best water, directly sourced from the highland grounds of Debre Birhan, where prime quality yeast, barley malt and hops are brewed to make their beer. (Sept. 22, 2019)

The tombs of King Kaleb and his son King Gebre Meskel are considered to be one of the best existing examples of 6th century AD Aksumite architecture in Aksum. Down the stairway is one chamber and five rooms into the tomb. Although constructed for King Kaleb, a well known warrior whose victories went beyond Ethiopia into the Arabian peninsula, he is buried elsewhere. (Sept. 22, 2019)

Inside the tomb of King Gebre Meskel are considered to be one of the best existing examples of 6th century AD Aksumite Architecture in Aksum. (Sept. 22, 2019)

Inside the tomb of King Gebre Meskel considered to be one of the best existing examples of 6th century AD Aksumite Architecture in Aksum. Inside one of the five rooms are these three sarcophagi, one adorned with a cross similar to Christian crosses found on Aksumite coins. (Sept. 22, 2019)

A close-up of the Christian cross found on one of the sarcophagi inside the tomb of King Gebre Meskel in Aksum. (Sept. 22, 2019)

Standing at the entrance of the ruins locally known as the Palace of the Queen of Sheba (i.e. the Palace of Makeda) in Aksum the former capital city of the Kingdom of Aksum. Dungur is the archaeological name for the ruins considered to be a substantial mansion. (Sept. 22, 2019)

A view of what is locally known as the ruins of the Queen of Sheba Palace or what archaeologists call Dungur, the 6th-century AD mansion of a nobleman in Aksum. Across the street from the palace or mansion ruins is the Gudit Stelae Field, between harvests of beans and teff, consisting of a large number of rough stelae with pointed rounded tops that date from about the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. (Sept. 22, 2019)

The Gudit Stelae Field across the street from the Queen of Sheba Palace ruins in Aksum between harvests of beans, are a number of rough stelae with pointed or rounded tops that date from about the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. These stelae are believed to represent the cemetery of the middle class of the Kingdom of Aksum. (Sept. 22, 2019)

The Gudit Stelae Field across the street from the Queen of Sheba Palace ruins in Aksum between harvests of beans, consists a number of rough stelae with pointed rounded tops that date from about the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. These stelae are believed to represent the cemetery of the middle class of the Kingdom of Aksum. (Sept. 22, 2019)

Mai Shum Swimming Pool which locals call the Queen of Sheba’s Bath in Aksum is an ancient reservoir serving as a water source and swimming pool for the children. The reservoir has existed at least since the time of the Kingdom of Aksum. (Sept. 22, 2019)

Views of the town of Aksum, Ethiopia. (Sept. 22, 2019)

Views of Ezana Park in the town of Aksum, Ethiopia. (Sept. 22, 2019)

Views of the large market area in the town of Aksum, Ethiopia. (Sept. 22, 2019)

Our hotel, Yared Zema in the town of Aksum, Ethiopia. Saint Yared was a legendary musician from the Aksum, Tigray area who was credited with inventing the sacred traditional music of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. He was born 525 AD and died 571 AD. (Sept. 21, 2019)

My room at the Yared Zema Hotel in Aksum, Ethiopia. (Sept. 21, 2019)

The painting, hanging at the reception area of the Yared Zema Hotel in Aksum, Ethiopia, is of the hotel’s namesake, St. Yared, whom in this painting is chanting at Aksum Square. (Sept. 21, 2019)

On the way to Mekele

It’s the celebration of Archangel Michael today and the women and men are covered in their white shawls on this festive day which according to the Ethiopian calendar, is the 12th day of the month, instead of 23rd.

On our way to Mekele, from Aksum, we made our way along the spectacular Adwa Mountains, the battlefield of Adwa, where the Ethiopians defeated the Italians in 1896 to the Yeha sanctuary complex and archaeological site; lunch in Adigrat and a visit to the rock-hewn church of Medhane Alem Adi Kesho.

Let’s begin.

In Aksum, the people are dressed in white in celebration of Archangel Michael and heading to the Church of Archangel Michael. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The faint-looking building at the top of the mountain in the distance is believed to be the burial place of King Kaleb, as we made our way out of Aksum. Although we saw the large underground tombs of Gebre Meske and King Kaleb in Aksum, Ethiopian tradition states that Kaleb eventually abdicated his throne to become a monk at Pentalewon Monastery where he lived and is said to be buried. The abdication took place after Kaleb went to war to restore Ethiopian sovereignty over South Arabia in 525 AD.
Abba Pentelewon (c. 470–522) was said to be a Christian monk who is credited with founding Pentalewon Monastery, located on the top of Mai Qoho Hill northwest of Aksum.
“Kaleb, who ruled circa 514-543, was the last major Aksumite king of Ethiopia, during whose reign the kingdom reached the apex of its glory,” according to the Encyclopedia Africana Dictionary of African Biography. “Kaleb is especially remembered for his military expedition in to South Arabia, which had long been under Ethiopian control. About A.D. 523, Dhu Nuwas, a local prince of the Najran area, led a revolt, after first having secured the support of the large Jewish community in South Arabia by converting to Judaism. Moving during the winter, when the weather would not permit Aksumite intervention he attacked the Ethiopian garrison, conquered the whole of South Arabia, persecuted the Christians, and forced Judaism on them. The following summer, however, Kaleb heard of his exploits and prepared a punitive expedition against him. Kaleb himself set out with his naval force, defeated Dhu Nuwas restoring Ethiopian sovereignty over South Arabia in A.D. 525. This victory won Kaleb fame as the defender of the Christian faith and increased his prestige and power. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The geology of the Yeha area, in the Tigray region, is composed of volcanic rocks forming the mountains around the village of Yeha. (Sept. 23, 2019)

A photo of an aerial poster view of the Yeha Sanctuary in the Tigray region. (Sept. 24, 2019)

The first exterior walled entrance to the Yeha Sanctuary complex in the Tigray region with the Great Temple, a monastery and small museum. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The second exterior walled entrance to the Yeha Sanctuary complex in the Tigray region northeast of Aksum contains the Great Temple, the monastery and a small museum. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The Abuna Aftse monastery, in the Yeha Sanctuary complex, was built in the 1940s over 6th century AD remains in the Tigray region of Ethiopia. The church/monastery is dedicated to one of the nine Syrian said, Abba Aftse. Incorporated into its walls are stones removed from the Great Temple, just a few feet away to the right, and in the exterior wall are reliefs of ibexes, a sacred animal of southern Arabia, also incorporated from the Great Temple. As is the case with other churches or monasteries, even though we were not allowed to enter, women, men and priests have their own entrances to the church. (Sept. 23, 2019)

Our Intrepid Travel guide Yohannes in front of the Abuna Aftse monastery church, in the Yeha Sanctuary complex, in the Tigray region of Ethiopia. The two exterior Ibex relief carvings were probably taken from the Great Temple, within the complex and just a few feet away. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The ancient and holy Ibex reliefs on the exterior of the Abuna Aftse monastery, in the Yeha Sanctuary in the Tigray region, were probably taken from the Great Temple and built into the exterior wall of this monastery. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The cemetery area of the Yeha Sanctuary complex, in the Tegray region of Ethiopia, between the church/monastery and the Great Temple. (Sept. 23, 2019)

Built in the middle of the 7th Century BC, the Great Temple of Yeha, part of a compound of buildings located at the Yeha Sanctuary, including a monastery and small museum, northeast of Aksum in the Tigray region of Ethiopia. It was dedicated to the main deity of the Saharan pantheon, the moon god Almaqah of the ancient Yemeni kingdom of Saba’. (Sept. 23, 2019)

Me inside the ruins of the Great Temple of Yeha, in the Tegray region of Ethiopia, which dates to the middle of the 7th century BC and was dedicated to the major Sabaean moon god, Almaqah. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The interior ruins of the Great Temple of Yeha in the Tigray region of Ethiopia. (Sept. 23, 2019)

Views from behind the Great Temple of Yeha in the Tigray region. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The small museum inside the Yeha Sanctuary complex, with a cemetery surrounding it, contains a collection of beautiful ancient Ge’ez calligraphed books and bibles; incised ancient Sabaean inscription brick-looking stone slabs believed to have originated from the Great Temple, ancient pottery and church paraphernalia such as coptic crosses. (Sept. 23, 2019)

A 1,000 year old book of songs written on goat skins with a bamboo cover at the small Yeha museum next to the Abuna Aftse monastery/church in the Yeha Sanctuary located in the Tigray region of Ethiopia. (Sept. 23, 2019)

A close-up of the 1000 year old book of songs written on goat skins with a bamboo cover at the small Yeha Museum next to the Abuna Aftse monastery/church in the Yeha Sanctuary located in the Tigray region of Ethiopia. (Sept. 23, 2019)

My Intrepid Travel tour group members just as taken I was by the hand made manuscripts at the little Yeha Museum at the Yeha Sanctuary in the Tigray region. (Sept. 23, 2019)

A close-up of another hand illustrated 300-year-old book of Mary and baby Jesus on one side and the three wise men on the other side. This hand made book and others, made from goat skin pages, are at the little Yeha museum next to the Abuna Aftse monastery/church in the Yeha Sanctuary located in the Tigray region of Ethiopia. (Sept. 23, 2019)

This hand made manuscript, being held by a priest at the small Yeha museum, shows the three wise men on Palm Sunday. The museum is next to the Abuna Aftse monastery/church in the Yeha Sanctuary located in the Tigray region of Ethiopia. (Sept. 23, 2019)

A close-up of the hand made manuscript showing the art of three wise men on Palm Sunday at the small Yeha Museum at the Yeha Sanctuary in the Tigray region. (Sept. 23, 2019)

This hand made manuscript, being held by a priest at the small Yeha Museum, shows the three wise men on Palm Sunday. The small upstairs museum is next to the Abuna Aftse monastery/church in the Yeha Sanctuary located in the Tigray region of Ethiopia. (Sept. 23, 2019)

Inside the Yeha Museum, with a small variety of artifacts, includes hand written bibles and song books with colorful art, coptic crosses and ancient stone slabs with Sabaean inscriptions. The small upstairs museum is next to the Abuna Aftse monastery/church in the Yeha Sanctuary located in the Tigray region of Ethiopia. (Sept. 23, 2019)

A close-up of the ancient stone slabs with Sabaean inscriptions at the small Yeha Museum next to the Abuna Aftse monastery at the Yeha Sanctuary in the Tigray region. (Sept. 23, 2019)

Leaving the Yeha Sanctuary complex and looking out into the village of Yeha located in the Ethiopia’s Tigray region. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The entrance to the second monumental structure in Yeha, the Grat Be ‘al Gebri outside the Yeha Sanctuary, dates to around 800 BC, northeast of Aksum in Ethiopia’s Tigray region. According to the Ethiopian-German Archaeological Mission excavating and studying this palatial structure, it is was an imposing structure with at least four stories and accessed by these flights of steps with six pillars. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The second monumental structure in Yeha, the Grat Be ‘al Gebri, dates to around 800 BC in the Tigray region. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The second monumental structure in Yeha, just outside the Yeha Sanctuary compound is this, the Grat Be ‘al Gebri, dates to around 800 BC, northeast of Aksum in Ethiopia’s Tigray region. (Sept. 23, 2019)

A young woman roasting beans to make coffee for our Intrepid Travel tour group after our walk through the ruins of the Grat Be ‘al Gebri, which dates to around 800 BC. (Sept. 23, 2019)

My Intrepid Travel group enjoying a coffee break at the archaeological site of Grat Be ‘al Gebri, a monumental structure built in timber-stone fashion in the Tigray Region. (Sept. 23, 2019)

Looking across the spectacular Adwa Mountains where the Ethiopians defeated the Italian colonial army in the Battle of Adwa in 1896. When Menelik II came to the Ethiopian throne in 1889, the Italians thought he would surrender power to them because they had been supplying him with arms. In May of that year Menelik signed the Treaty of Wichale, giving the Italians some land in Tigre and the adjacent highlands. But the Italians fatally underestimated the Ethiopians, thinking they were barbarians and the Italian General Bartieri boasted that he would bring Menelik back in a cage. But what the general did not know is that Menelik had assembled 196,000 men in Addis Ababa. Over 50% of these men were armed with modern rifles. General Bartieri could only muster 25,000 men and when he realized he was outnumbered retreated to Adigrat, where Menelik overwhelmed him for 45 days. This important victory signaled the decline of European colonialism in Black Africa. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The spectacular Adwa Mountains in the Tigray Region of Ethiopia is where the Ethiopians defeated the Italian colonial army in the Battle of Adwa in 1896. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The city of Adigrat in the region of Tigray in Ethiopia where our group stopped for lunch. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The city of Adigrat in the region of Tigray in Ethiopia where our group stopped for lunch and where this animal market was taking place. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The route to the Medhane Alem Adi Kesho rock church in the Tigray region was off the main road and literally out in the middle of no where through a procession of bumpy dirt roads lined with these gorgeous cactus pear trees. The cactus pear is known as ‘Beles’, is adapted to the arid, areas and used for sources like food, fuel, feed and soil conservation for the people of the area. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The cactus pear off the road in the Tigray region and on the way to the Medhane Alem Adi Kesho rock church. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The cactus pear in the Tigray region on the way to the Medhane Alem Adi Kesho rock church. (Sept. 23, 2019)

This was taken after I climbed up the steep, slippery, stepping stone, rocks to the rock-hewn church of Medhane Alem Adi, also known as Adi Kesho, one of several rock-hewn churches in the Tigray region of Ethiopia. And, to make getting up this steep and slippery terrain even more difficult are the young boys and men who gather at the foot of the climb to request money for helping /harassing people making the steep and slightly slippery climb up. At just about any site, where tourists go, children, young boys and young men gather to sell you something, ask for money or offer assistance for money. (Sept. 23, 2019)

Looking down after climbing to the top of the steep, slippery rock hill path to the rock-hewn church of Medhane Alem Adi Kesho in the Tigray region. (Sept. 23, 2019)

A few more steps to go as I head to the top the steep, slippery rock hill path that leads to the rock-hewn church of Medhane Alem Adi Kesho in the Tigray region. (Sept. 23, 2019)

One of two exterior gates leading to the rock-hewn Adi Kesho church in the Tigray region. (Sept. 23, 2019)

Heading towards the second gate leading to the rock-hewn Adi Kesho church in the Tigray region. (Sept. 23, 2019)

Before going through this last gate, leading to the rock-hewn Adi Kesho church in the Tigray region, everyone has to take off their shoes. And, lucky me, I wore socks. (Sept. 23, 2019)

Barefoot, we take the rocky, dirt path to the Medhane Alem Adi Kesho church sculpted into the rock. The church, also known as Adi Kesho, after its location, is considered one of the Tigray region’s oldest, tallest and finest rock-hewn church. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The Medhane Alem Adi Kesho, considered one of the oldest and finest rock-hewn churches in the Tigray region, is estimated to date from the 10th or early 11th century. (Sept. 23, 2019)

Our Intrepid Travel group inside the inner hallway of the Medhane Alem Adi Kesho rock-hewn church in the region of Tigray, Ethiopia, with our Intrepid Travel tour Ethiopia guide, Yohannes, giving us some of its history. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The priest with a wooden key unlocking the door to the Medhane Alem Adi Kesho rock-hewn church in the Tigray region of Ethiopia. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The inside hallway and opened door into Medhane Alem Adi Kesho rock-hewn church in the Tigray region of Ethiopia. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The Holy of Holies altar inside the rock-hewn church of Medhane Alem Adi Kesho in the Tigray region of Ethiopia. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The carved ceilings or the Aksumite stone bas-relief inside the interior of the orthodox rock-hewn church of Medhane Alem Kesho in the Tigray region of Ethiopia. The ceiling is decorated with reliefs and geometrical patterns and because of its immense height and massive pillars, this church resembles a cathedral. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The interior hall altar at the rock-hewn church Medhane Alem Kesho, Tigray region, Ethiopia. (Sept. 23, 2019)

My room at Hotel Zemarias in Mekele, Ethiopia. We left Aksum at 7:00 in the morning and didn’t get to Mekele until 7:00 in the evening. Glad we made the stops along the way but it was so good to get to this hotel and have a comfortable room. (Sept. 23, 2019)

My very comfortable room at Hotel Zemarias in Mekele, Ethiopia. We left Aksum at 7:00 a.m. and didn’t get to Mekele until 7:00 p.m. Glad we made the stops along the way but it was so good to get to this hotel and have a comfortable room. (Sept. 23, 2019)

My bathroom at the Zemarias Hotel in Mekele. It may not look like much in Western standards but the bathroom was a joy to take a shower in and the toilet was better than the bush or squatting on very used porcelain toilets in the ground. This shower and toilet were heavenly. Good night because tomorrow is another early day and long driving day as we make our way to the in-ground carved churches of Lalibela. This is what I’ve waited for, I hope it doesn’t disappoint. (Sept. 23, 2019)

The Road to Lalibela

We left Mekele in the dark of Tuesday morning at around 6 am for the long day’s journey to the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, Ethiopia. It took more than 12 hours with a coffee stop, a lunch break and quick bush pee breaks to reach the UNESCO World Heritage site. But every bump and pothole, along with the gorgeous landscape and bustling villages, was worth it.

I’ve seen photos of these wondrous earth carved churches that look as if they were placed lovingly inside a huge pit in the ground instead of actually being carved to life from the earth itself and I’ve wanted to see them. According to legend, King Lalibela, was instructed by God to build a new Jerusalem in Ethiopia.

Let’s check out the road to Lalibela.

We stopped in the small town of Alamata, where our guide Yohannes was raised, for a coffee break. (Sept. 24, 2019)

The beautiful carved door at a soon-to-open hotel in Alamata, Ethiopia, where we stopped for a coffee at the childhood hometown of our Intrepid Travel tour guide, Yohannes. (Sept. 24, 2019)

A close-up of a panel on the beautiful carved doors are a soon-to-open hotel in Alamata, Ethiopia, where are group stopped for a coffee break and the childhood hometown of our Intrepid Travel tour guide, Yohannes. (Sept. 24, 2019)

A whole slew of camels heading to market as our tour group makes our way to Lalibela, Ethiopia. (Sept. 24, 2019)

Sites along the Lalibela-Geshena Road in the Amhara region on the way to Lalibela, Ethiopia. (Sept. 24, 2019)

Village life along the Lalibela-Geshena Road in the Amhara region on the way to Lalibela, Ethiopia. (Sept. 24, 2019)

Village life along the Lalibela-Geshena Road in the Amhara region on the way to Lalibela. (Sept. 24, 2019)

Sites along the Lalibela-Geshena Road in the Amhara region on the way to Lalibela. (Sept. 24, 2019)

This was a pee stop on the Lalibela-Geshena Road that led to meeting these beautiful young girls on their way home from school in the Amhara region. Finally, and this was the first time I felt the need to just hand these girls money and pens. They didn’t ask, but I just wanted to give. This is what I was waiting for, young soon-to-be woman getting an education so they can, hopefully, make a bright future for themselves. It just warmed my heart and soul to run into them on our way to Lalibela. (Sept. 24, 2019)

Lalibela

Below, yet within, the ground of the rocky earth, a man, a king named Lalibela chose to create some 11 churches over a span of 24 years to honor his Christian faith and inspire a place of pilgrimage for the faithful to a new Jerusalem.

No matter how many photos I’ve seen of these rock hewn churches, walking the passageways and tunnels into the depths of the earth to see these magnificent carved out churches is something so powerful that it will resonate in my soul forever.

Ethiopia was one of the earliest nations to adopt Christianity in the first half of the 4th century, and its historical roots date to the time of the Apostles. King Lalibela (1162-1221 AD) wanted a place of pilgrimage, a kind of new Jerusalem, in response to the capture of old Jerusalem by Muslims in 1187.

There are a variety of scholarly studies regarding the dates the rock-cut monolithic churches are thought to have been built. Primarily it is during the reign of Zagwe King Gebre Mesqel Lalibela from about 1181 to 1221 AD, who supervised the constructions.

The names of several places of the rock-cut churches mimic names and patterns observed by Lalibela during the time he supposedly spent as a youth in Jerusalem and the Holy Land.

We spent the day visiting the two main clusters of churches close to the town, the northern and eastern groups. The Rock-Hewn Churches of Lalibela are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Tomorrow I head back to Addis Ababa for a long Lay over before taking a 4am flight to Cairo, Egypt., where I will meet up with my daughter Sydney and my friend Elizabeth.

But for now, here are some of the wondrous rock-hewn churches of Lalibela.