The Nubian pyramids built by the rulers of the ancient Kingdom of Kush in Meroe. The The Italian explorer/treasure hunter Giuseppe Ferlini smashed the tops and vandalized some 40 pyramids during the 1830s in a quest to find their treasure. (Sept. 13, 2019)
This is my 8-day journey through the Sudan with my archeology and history guide Habab, Khartoum city driver Saleh, countryside driver/cook Jamal, who along with assistant Adele, work with the Real Sudan travel company owned and operated by Samir Abbass who all had a hand in putting together this flawless trip. I can’t thank these tremendous people enough for transporting me around their country, feeding me their delicious cuisine, teaching me their history, sharing their stories and ultimately welcoming me with open hearts into their country. I am incredibly thankful and utterly grateful.
This is a lengthy and thorough piece about my travels through the Sudan, so buckle up!
Let’s begin!
For a traveler, the Sudan is pure and untainted by tourism. It is African and home to African kings and queens. It’s where, during the period of the Black Pharaohs…the 25th Dynasty, that the Sudanese kings ruled over Egypt and the Sudan. Making the Sudan the first country to visit on my ambitious journey through six African and Middle East countries made for the best beginning to a two-month long trip.
The Sudan is a gem, but it meant setting aside my western notions of things and accepting how the Sudanese live their everyday lives with such incredible kindness and hospitality. Yes, there is good and bad everywhere on this earth. But I choose to see the glass half-ful and the Sudanese filled the rest of the glass. Africa is the root of civilization and Sudan’s history and ancient civilizations may not rival the discoveries and tourism of Egypt, but this is one place anyone with an eye for unfiltered travel and history, without the visitor’s center and gift shops, should see in person. Let me introduce you to the Sudan and the Sudanese I so heartily respect and whose friendship I enjoyed.
The Sudan is recovering from 30 years of dictatorship plus a recent take over by the military that brought the people out to protest and demonstrate military rule for rule by and for the people. The transition was recent and not peaceful when the military ended up shooting at the demonstrators and killing more than 100 people. The protest began because there was no bread. The U.S. Department of State issued a Level 4 (Do Not Travel) advisory for the Sudan. However, the day I arrived in the capital city of Khartoum, September 5, 2019, the government went under civil control and the people began what is hoped to be a prosperous recovery while rejoicing a future of democracy.
At no time during my eight days of traveling through the Sudan did I ever feel uncomfortable or threatened. This is an economically poor country by western standards but it is rich in history and kindness more so than any other African country I’ve visited thus far. In my experience, in other African countries people did not like having their photos taken or requested payment in order to take their photos. But, not here in Khartoum or throughout the Sudan. People asked to have their photos taken and some wanted to have their photos taken with me. Except for taking direct photos of the military, which seemed to gather along the streets from the airport in Khartoum, taking photos was encouraged and welcomed. And, not one person asked me for money.
Day 1 – Khartoum: Sudan National Museum, Street life, Market, Nile River & Sufi dancers
My first full day in Khartoum was spent visiting a number of historical places including relics at the Sudan National Museum, visiting the open-air market of the Souq Omdurman along with seeing the Sufi dancing ceremony at the Hamad Al Neil Cemetery in Omdurman, just outside of Khartoum. Here’s my first full day in the Sudan starting with its capital, Khartoum, pronounced ‘har-toom,’ the K is silent.
Me with history and archaeology guide Habab and Saleh, who picked me up yesterday (Thursday) at Khartoum Airport in Khartoum, Sudan. These wonderful people are with the Real Sudan travel company team that is owned and operated by Samir Abbass who arranged everything, along with help from Adele, and communicated with me before and after the civil unrest. I spent my day seeing Khartoum and learning about Khartoum with these two wonderful Sudanese people. I bid good-bye to Saleh, but I will be spending the next seven days learning about the Sudan with Habab’s help. (Sept. 6, 2019)Street life in Khartoum, the capital of Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)Street life in Khartoum, the capital of Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)Street life in Khartoum, the capital of Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)Street life in Khartoum, the capital of Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)Street life in Khartoum, the capital of Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)The first stop to begin my first full day in Khartoum was here at the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum, Sudan, to see the relocated and rebuilt temples in the Open Air Museum garden and collections inside the museum. (Sept. 6, 2019)The interior reception area of the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)The relocated remains of Buhen Temple in the garden area of the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum was originally built by the Egyptian Queen Hatshepsut who reigned about 1500 BC. Parts of the temple were rebuilt by Tuthmosis III who cut out the Queen’s name and replaced it with is own in many of the areas of the temple. In the museum garden are three relocated and reconstructed temples, this one, the Buhen Temple, the Temple of Kumma and the Temple of Semna. (Sept. 6, 2019)Inside the relocated remains of Buhen Temple at the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum was originally built by the Egyptian Queen Hatshepsut who reigned about 1500 BC. Parts of the temple were rebuilt by Tuthmosis III who cut out the Queen’s name and replaced it with is own in many of the areas of the temple. (Sept. 6, 2019)Inside the relocated remains of Buhen Temple at the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum parts of which were rebuilt by Tuthmosis III who cut out Queen Hatshepsut’s name.The walls show the King making offers to the gods. The temple was originally built by the Egyptian Queen Hatshepsut who reigned about the year 1500 BC. (Sept. 6, 2019)The relocated and reconstructed Temple of Buhen at the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum was originally built in the Fortress of Buhen by the Egyptian Queen Hatshepsut (1507-1458) BC who came to the throne of Egypt in 1478 BC. Parts of the temple were rebuilt by Tuthmosis III who cut out the Queen’s name and replaced it with his own. (Sept. 6, 2019)Inside the relocated and reconstructed the Temple of Buhen Temple at the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)This carving shows the Egyptian Queen Hatshepsut, appearing as a king, dedicating the Buhen Temple to Horus, the falcon-headed god, the mythical ancestor of all Pharaohs; and the falcon god giving her the ankh, a cross with a loop, used in ancient Egypt to symbolize the gift of life. This piece is part of the relocated and reconstructed Buhen Temple in the garden area of the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum, Sudan. Hatshepsut was born circa 1508 BC. Beginning in 1478 BC, Queen Hatshepsut reigned over Egypt for more than 20 years. She served as queen alongside her husband, Thutmose II, but after his death, she claimed the role of pharaoh while acting as regent to her step-son, Thutmose III. Parts of this temple, sheltered outside by an awning, were built by Tuthmosis III who cut out the Queen’s name in an attempt to erase her legacy and replace it with his own. (Sept. 6, 2019)Me at the relocated and reconstructed Temple of Semna at the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum, built largely during the reign of the Pharaoh Tuthmosis III, within the Fortress of Semna, and was dedicated to the Nubian god Dedwen and to the deified former Pharaoh, Sesostris III. (Sept. 6, 2019)Me standing by the granite unfinished Tabo Colossal statues of the Argo Island outside the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum. Due to missing inscriptions they cannot be assigned to any person but they have Roman influence. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Tabo Colossal statues at the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum were found in front of the ruins of the Temple of Tabo some 5-miles from the Kingdom of Kerma in the Sudan. Both statues were hewn out of a single block of granite, wearing the double crown, a close-fitting kilt and corset with shoulder ties. This one is accompanied by a child at his ankles. (Sept. 6, 2019)The interior of the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)A wooden bed, on display at the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum, is how people were buried. This was at a tomb in the ancient Kingdom of Kerma. (Sept. 6, 2019)This naked woman relief, at the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum, with exacerbated feminine attributes and grotesque proportions is a rare depiction of goddess Beset. Her son, god Bes, who shares this deformed figure with his mother, is most often represented in Egypt and in Sudan. Bes, a figurine of who is placed at the foot of his mother here, is figured as a frightening bearded dwarf, whose role, like his mother’s, is to drive bad spirits away from pregnant women and newborn children, according to an illustrated guide for visitors of the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum. (Sept. 6, 2019)These African featured statues inside the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum are funerary figures called ushabtis were placed in tombs to act as servants for the deceased, should they be called upon to do manual labor in the afterlife. Egyptians believed the afterlife was a continuation from the earthly plane to the eternal. (Sept. 6, 2019)These statues with their African features inside the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum are funerary figures called ushabti. (Sept. 6, 2019)The statue of Pharaoh Taharqo at the Sudan National Museum in Khartoum is the son of Piye, the Nubian King of Napata, who first conquered Egypt. The statue comes from Napata and was collected by the archaeologist George Reisner along with several others in one of the pits where priests had piously buried them after the sack of the city by the Egyptian troops of Psamtik II in 591 BC. The crown, once adorned with four large feathers, which receives the “breath of life” from the gods. One of the two cobras was damaged, the one representing Egypt, since the Egyptians of the 26th Dynasty did not accept the power that the Black Pharaohs yet wielded over Egypt for about 70 years. Taharqa’s reign can be dated from 690 BC to 664 BC. He was a pharaoh of the 25th Dynasty of Egypt King of the Kingdom of Kush (present day Sudan). (Sept. 6, 2019)The Souq Omdurman, an open-air market just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Souq Omdurman, an open-air market just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Souq Omdurman, an open-air market just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Souq Omdurman, an open-air market just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Souq Omdurman, an open-air market just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Souq Omdurman, an open-air market just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Souq Omdurman, an open-air market just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Souq Omdurman, an open-air market just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Souq Omdurman, an open-air market just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Souq Omdurman, an open-air market just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Souq Omdurman, an open-air market just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Souq Omdurman, an open-air market just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Souq Omdurman, an open-air market just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Souq Omdurman, an open-air market just outside of the city of Khartoum. (Sept. 6, 2019)The tuk tuk is one of several forms of transportation that keep the people moving in Khartoum along with vans, motorbikes and walking. (Sept. 6, 2019)Salem is driving and Habab is my guide as we cross over the bridge of the Nile (White to the left and Blue to the right) leaving Khartoum for Omdurman. (Sept. 6, 2019)Crossing the bridge from Khartoum into Omdurman is the Blue Nile considered the slower, calmer waters from Victoria Lake, while the White Nile from Ethiopia is considered wild. The Nile is truly ancient and has been a source of water, transportation and life for the Sudanese and so famously as well for the Egyptians. (Sept. 6, 2019)And, this is the White Nile, considered wild with its higher currents from Ethiopia, on the driving and pedestrian walking bridge from Omdurman back into Khartoum. (Sept. 6, 2019)The men fishing off the banks of the calm, yet higher than normal Blue Nile in Khartoum and one of the men is going out to survey the catch. (Sept. 6, 2019)The calm, yet higher than normal Blue Nile in Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 6, 2019)Me with one of the fishermen, on the bank of the Blue Nile, who wanted to take a photo with me in Khartoum, Sudan. As a visitor, I am welcomed to be in their country and treated with kindness and respect. And, even though I am a woman, because I am a foreigner, I am not required to dress as the local women. But, I do respect the Muslim religion and culture and cover my arms and legs. (Sept. 6, 2019)A Friday evening gathering of Sufi dancers at the Hamad Al Neil Cemetery, a public graveyard, at Omdurman, just outside of Khartoum. The Gadriyah Sect holds these spiritual dancing ceremonies every Friday just before sunset next to the mausoleum of Sheikh Hamad al-Neil, one of the leaders of the Gadriyah Sect in Omdurman. (Sept. 6, 2019)A Sufi dance gathering at the Hamad Al Neil Cemetery on Omdurman, just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. The Sufi dance ceremony is held every Friday just before sunset next to mausoleum of Sheikh Hamad al-Neil, a Sufi leader. (Sept. 6, 2019)A Sufi dance gathering at the Hamad Al Neil Cemetery on Omdurman, just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. The Sufi dance ceremony is held every Friday just before sunset next to mausoleum of Sheikh Hamad al-Neil, a Sufi leader. (Sept. 6, 2019)A Sufi dance gathering at the Hamad Al Neil Cemetery on Omdurman, just outside of the city of Khartoum. The Sufis are often called ‘whirling dervishes’ but there’s not much whirling, it’s more a circular parade with chanting, clapping and drumming. The chanting of ‘There is no God but Allah’, in Arabic is the first line of the Muslim procession of faith. (Sept. 6, 2019)I asked this Sufi dancer, at the Sufi dancing ceremony in Omdurman, outside of the city of Khartoum, if I could take his photo and he so wonderfully agreed. While so many of the men wore long white loose robes called jallabiya, the Sufi dancers wear a patchwork of colorful fabrics topped with chunky beads as they march and chant to drums. (Sept. 6, 2019)Me with one of the Sufi dancers at the Sufi dance ceremony in Omdurman, just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. While so many of the men wear long white loose robes called jalllabiya, the Sufi dancers wear a patchwork of colorful fabrics topped with chunky beads. and dreadlocks. (Sept. 6, 2019)Had to get a top to bottom photo of this Sufi who agreed to take a photo with me at the Sufi dance ceremony in Omdurman, just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. While so many of the men wear long white loose robes called jalllabiya, the Sufi dancers wear a patchwork of colorful fabrics topped with chunky beads. and dreadlocks. (Sept. 6, 2019)A Sufi dance gathering at the Hamad Al Neil Cemetery on Omdurman, just outside of the city of Khartoum. The Sufi dance ceremony is held every Friday just before sunset next to mausoleum of Sheikh Hamad al-Neil, a Sufi leader. (Sept. 6, 2019)Sufi dancers gathering at the Hamad Al Neil Cemetery on Omdurman, just outside Khartoum. (Sept. 6, 2019)Sufi dancers gathering at the Hamad Al Neil Cemetery on Omdurman, just outside of Khartoum. (Sept. 6, 2019)Sufi dancers gathering at the Hamad Al Neil Cemetery on Omdurman, just outside of Khartoum. (Sept. 6, 2019)A Sufi dance gathering at the Hamad Al Neil Cemetery on Omdurman, just outside of Khartoum. (Sept. 6, 2019)A Sufi dance gathering at the Hamad Al Neil Cemetery on Omdurman, just outside of the city of Khartoum, Sudan. The Sufi dance ceremony is held every Friday just before sunset next to mausoleum of Sheikh Hamad al-Neil, a Sufi leader. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Hamad Al Neil Cemetery in Omdurman, just outside of the capital city of Khartoum where the Sufi dance celebrations were held. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Hamad Al Neil Cemetery in Omdurman, just outside of the capital city of Khartoum where the Sufi dance celebrations were held. (Sept. 6, 2019)The Hamad Al Neil Cemetery in Omdurman, just outside of the capital city of Khartoum, Sudan, where the Sufi dance celebrations were held. (Sept. 6, 2019)This is the Acropole Hotel, where I stayed, in Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 7, 2019)From the balcony of the Acropole Hotel in Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 7, 2019)My very basic and plain room at the Acropole Hotel in Khartoum, Sudan. (Sept. 5, 2019)
Day 2 – Dongola and sleeping in the Nubian desert
Our drive to Old Dongola from Khartoum, along the west road, turned out to be about a 9-hour drivethrough Khartoum, Omdurman, and what looked like little villages before encountering the ancient desert sites at Old Dongola where we set up our overnight campsite on the desert. LeavingKhartoum and Omdurman, the roads were considered to be rather crowded for a Saturday but seeing the multitudes of people out and about, at least to me, was exciting.
I got to meet Jamal today. He will be our driver throughout our, or should I say, my Sudan journey, since I’m the only traveler on this trip. He’s a reserved, hard-working, quiet man and I look forward to hopefully, getting to know him better. Saleh, who picked me up from the Khartoum International Airport on Friday, also drove Habab and I around Khartoum on Saturday and I just automatically thought he would be the driver for the entire trip, but alas, he was not. Also Mozamel, who works at the front desk of the Acropolis Hotel is the person that called the airport immigration security to speak to me and let me know he was waiting for me once I paid my $150 USD and cleared immigration. He was also the person who changed $100 USD into 4,500 Sudan Pounds. My Chase credit card and my Schwab Bank ATM card, quite frankly, all American credit cards cannot be used in the Sudan because the US has economic sanctions against the country. Anyway, I digress.
The roads in both cities were bad, potholes and such, but once we got out of the cities, the asphalt west road through the small villages, the desert and onto Dongola and Old Dongola, were smooth running. I know nine hours is a long time to sit in a car with a few stops here and there but I had the back seat to myself so I could stretch out and I truly love sitting back and see people living their lives. I love seeing the people from others countries and cultures who may look different, than me, or dress different than me or whatever different than me, go on about living their lives. However fleeting, I get to take a peek.
Getting on the road with Jamal, our driver and cook; and Habab my guide through the wonders of the Sudan as we leave Khartoum and make the long drive to Old Dongola. (Sept. 7, 2019)Leaving the city of Khartoum as we make our way to Old Dongola, Sudan. (Sept. 7, 2019)Leaving the city of Khartoum as we make our way to Old Dongola, Sudan. (Sept. 7, 2019)Miles and miles of desert as we make our way to Old Dongola, Sudan. (Sept. 7, 2019)The camel raising and race training place off the asphalt west road from Khartoum to Old Dongola. These camels can be sold to Saudi Arabia for racing or Egypt for meat. (Sept. 7, 2019)I find it so interesting that these young men, who train and race camels, want to take a photo with me and Jamal, my Real Sudan driver, standing next to me at the left end. (Sept. 7, 2019)The camels, at least most of them roam free on this desert portion of land off the asphalt west road from Khartoum to Old Dongola. (Sept. 7, 2019)The camel raising and race training off an asphalt road from Khartoum to Old Dongola are sold to Saudi Arabia for racing or Egypt for meat. (Sept. 7, 2019)The camel raising and race training off an asphalt road from Khartoum to Old Dongola. (Sept. 7, 2019)A stretch the legs and potty break before stopping for lunch on our way to Dongola. (Sept. 7, 2019)Western toilets these are not but these are the toilets I got use to using while traveling through the Sudan. Rarely there were western bowl toilets with and without the toilet lids. (Sept. 7, 2019)Our rest stop off the asphalt west road from Khartoum to Old Dongola that provided a place to sit and eat. Jamal, our driver and cook was allowed to cook for us at the rest stop’s kitchen. (Sept. 7, 2019)The interior portion of our rest stop off the asphalt west road from Khartoum to Old Dongola with its palm leaves ceiling blocking the very hot sun. The tables and chairs are all plastic and the ground is the desert sand. (Sept. 7, 2019)Getting ready to enjoy Jamal’s home cooked lunch, with Habab, at our rest stop off the asphalt west road from Khartoum to Old Dongola. Jamal, our sweet and kind Real Sudan driver prepared this wonderful meal and sitting across from him is my Real Sudan guide, Habab. I’m literally in the company of angels. And, just as we are about to partake of the food a quick mini swoosh of sand appears and disappear rather quickly but leaving deposits of sand into our food. We tried to cover the food as quickly as we could but sand is too tiny and too quick to be controlled. So for my first sand/food experience, I was pleasantly delighted, a little crunch here and there, no taste, but the food was good, and I survived. For lunch there was a mixed salad, beans, some beef, boiled onions and bread. There’s always bread and its often used to eat the remaining food with instead of a fork. (Sept. 7, 2019)Although we had gas, with a spare, Jamal still wanted to fill up the large gas tank. But we were told that we would need to get permission, since I’m a guest and we are traveling, otherwise we would need to wait in line with the other vans and trucks not pictured here. Since we were still in good shape, and had a long day of driving, we continued on our journey along the asphalt west road from Khartoum to Old Dongola in the Sudan. (Sept. 7, 2019)The Sudan desert along the asphalt west road from Khartoum to Old Dongola gets so hot from the sun that the sand, over time turns black creating black sand rocks. (Sept. 7, 2019)The desert road into the historical sites of Old Dongola. No visitors center, no gates, no tour buses to transport the groups of tourists to the site. In fact, no tourists. (Sept. 7, 2019)The Catholic Royal Throne Hall or Shrine ruins in the Old City of Dongola was constructed from the mid 9th century on a rocky crag rising high above the town. The Shrine was turned into a mosque in 1317 AD. (Sept. 7, 2019)The remains of a Catholic Church in Old Dongola, a Christian kingdom for some 750 years until conquered by the Mamluks of Egypt creating a Muslim Kingdom in the early 14th century. (Sept. 7, 2019)The remains of another Catholic Church in Old Dongola with the Nile River in the distance. (Sept. 7, 2019)Me standing at the ruins of a former Muslim site in Old Dongola. (Sept. 7, 2019)Qubbos, Islamic dome mausoleums, at a cemetery in Old Dongola were erected around the 17th century and contains the graves of a saint or noble person of importance in the community. (Sept. 7, 2019)Qubbos, Islamic dome mausoleums, at a cemetery in Old Dongola erected around the 17th century. (Sept. 7, 2019)Qubbos, Islamic dome mausoleums, at a cemetery in Old Dongola, Sudan, were erected around the 17th century. (Sept. 7, 2019)An open qubbo, Islamic dome mausoleum, at a cemetery in Old Dongola, Sudan, were erected around the 17th century. (Sept. 7, 2019)Inside a qubbo, Islamic dome mausoleum, at a cemetery in Old Dongola, Sudan, were erected around the 17th century. (Sept. 7, 2019)A qubba and modern-day graves covered with rocks at a cemetery in Old Dongola, Sudan, which has been used as a burial grounds since the 17th century. (Sept. 7, 2019)Our campsite for the night in the Nubian Desert of Old Dongola. That’s Habab, my guide and Jamal, our driver with Real Sudan. (Sept. 7, 2019)Jamal is unpacking the Toyota Land Cruiser 4X4 so we can set up our tents and he can prepare dinner, delicious fried potatoes and sausages. (Sept. 7, 2019)Our tents set up at our campsite in the Nubian Desert of Old Dongola, Sudan. I rested but I did not sleep a wink. I know I spent the first few hours, even though the sun was down, sweating and rather profusely for me. The night air was still hot but as the night progressed, I did notice more of a cooling down along with a breeze. And, even in the dark of night, the sky and moon cast a lite light over the desert and laying on the ground looking up gave me a clear view of the stunningly star-filled sky. I need to admit this, but I squatted to urinate in the desert, under the stars and it was amazing. (Sept. 7, 2019)Our campsite for the night in the Nubian Desert of Old Dongola, Sudan. (Sept. 7, 2019)Nightfall in the Nubian Desert of Old Dongola, Sudan. (Sept. 7, 2019)
Day 3 – The Kingdom of Kerma
It’s called the Sahara Desert but in Sudan, it is the Nubian Desert with different local names thrown in. And, we were full-on Nubian Desert from the time we left Old Dongola until we arrived in Kerma. The desert is vast, bold, ever-changing, treacherous and beautiful. It truly is a landscape like no other and it is also life to the Sudanese people.
Along with plowing our way through the Nubian Desert, we also drove parallel to the ancient Nile River which showed off its colorful greening power along its banks. But, in the meantime there’s a need to make sure we have sufficient gas so Jamal (our driver and wonderful cook) had to make a couple of stops and Habab (my dynamic guide) had to get permission of the security office to get gas and cut into the line because they were transporting a guest in their country, me.
And, onto Kerma where we came across gorgeous outdoor art, visited the former mighty Kerma Civilization Complex, met with the former Black Pharaohs and where we spent our first night at a guesthouse that required me to set aside my Western standards and accept the local way of living. Here’s our journey to Kerma from Old Dongola.
“In the Kingdom of Kerma, writing is unknown; Egyptian texts refer to it as Kush. Its inhabitants prospered by livestock farming (bovines and caprines), exploiting of vegetable resources as well as hunting and fishing. Trade (gold, precious stones, ivory, animal hide, ebony, cattle) also contributed to the city’s wealth, due to its location in the centre of a fertile basin and at the crossroads of desert routes linking Egypt, the Red Sea and the heart of Africa. The Nubians, known to be shrewd warriors and talented archers, cared to protect themselves from enemy raids. They built trenches, palisades and fairly strong enclosure walls with numerous bastions. Kerma is the capital city of the first kingdom of Nubia. The region, which includes the oldest cemeteries of the African continent, also boasts the discovery of statues of the Black Pharaohs.,” according to the Swiss Archaeological Mission excavating and researching in the Sudan for more than 30 years.
“The first settlement in Kerma can be traced back to the 4th millennium BC. This phase has been called ‘Pre-Kerma’. The Kingdom of Kerma, however, was established around 2500 BC. The timeline of this kingdom has been divided into three phases – Ancient / Early Kerma (around 2500 BC – 2050 BC), Middle Kerma (around 2050 BC – 1750 BC) and Classic Kerma (around 1750 BC – 1500 BC). Around 1500 BC, this Nubian kingdom came to an end, as it was during this period of time that the Egyptian pharaoh, Thutmosis I, defeated it and brought its territories under Egyptian rule,” according to the Ancient Origins website.
Our footsteps in the sand during the morning we got ourselves ready to leave our Nubian Desert campsite in Old Gongola, Sudan, to head to our next journey, Western Defufa and then onto Kerma. (Sept. 8, 2019)We traveled on the same asphalt Nubian desert into Old Dongola, Sudan, that we had been on since Khartoum. But the Nubian Desert terrain just doesn’t stay the same. Along the way, the wind picked up and the skies began to change. (Sept. 8, 2019)We continued on to Kerma, except now, there was no asphalt road, just the desert sand and previous tire tracks. I asked Jamal how he was able to find his way through the desert and his answer was he had driven it countless times, was aware of the Nile River to the left of him, some consistent landmarks and hopefully even some previous vehicle tracks, as was evident during our drive. In other words, there is no GPS, it’s just man knowing the land, in this case, the desert. Jamal, our Real Sudan driver, decided that we needed a rest stop in the Nubian Desert and the Land Rover needed a break too. I’m holding on because it’s rather windy. (Sept. 8, 2019)The asphalt surface we had from Khartoum to Old Dongola came to an end which meant traveling through the sandy, rocky Nubian Desert to get to Kerma. Jamal, our Real Sudan driver, pulled over to give us a few minutes rest from the bumpy road and to allow our 4×4 Toyota Land Cruiser to chill as well. (Sept. 8, 2019)Rock art in the Nubian Desert of the Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)Back on the asphalt road again and passing this oasis of water in the Nubian Desert on our way from Old Dongola to Kerma. (Sept. 8, 2019)An oasis of water in the Nubian Desert on our drive from Old Dongola to Kerma. Recent heavy rain in the northern area had caused some areas to flood and this is why there was still a couple of areas like this one. (Sept. 8, 2019)The Nubian Desert and the Nile River have coexisted from ancient times. This was taken on our from Old Dongola to Kerma. (Sept. 8, 2019)Getting gas felt like mining for gold but at this location, on our drive to Kerma, we struck gas gold. Oil is imported from Saudi Arabia and there can be special days and times for the different types of vehicles to get gas. (Sept. 8, 2019)Men, cars and trucks waiting to gas up their vehicles as we made our way from Old Dongola to Kerma. Oil is imported from Saudi Arabia and there can be special days and times for the different types of vehicles to get gas.(Sept. 8, 2019)One pump at this gas station for the cars and trucks lined up to get gas as we made our way from Old Dongola to Kerma, Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)The ancient Kingdom of Kerma is considered one of the first great African kingdoms. Through its history, over a millennium, 2400 to 1500 BC, its location at the center of an agricultural basin and at the cross roads of a commercial route made it an influential commercial and political power. Along with its prestigious historic designation, modern Kerma is known as the artistic hub of the Sudan as shown in this modern carving of ancient symbols. (Sept. 8, 2019)Carved and painted tree trunks in Kerma, Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)Carved and painted tree trunks in Kerma, Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)Carved and painted tree trunks in Kerma, Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)Carved and painted tree trunks in Kerma, Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)A group of beautifully dressed women waiting to catch a ride on the van said hello to me and allowed me to take their photos in Kerma, Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)A Nubian decorated gate to a restaurant in Kerma, Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)And, the art wall of the restaurant with the Nubian gate in Kerma, Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)The Nubian designed gate entrance to the Kerma Civilization Complex in Kerma once the capital of the kingdom known as Kush, the heart of the Kingdom of Nubia. “At the heart of this great city was a huge, mud brick structure known as the Deffufa. It’s the oldest known mud brick building in Africa and one of the largest. But it has no rooms. It’s a solid block of masonry. Could have been built for rituals. The temple on top is the main focus. It was surrounded by palaces for royalty or priests. Judging by the buildings, Kerma was not just a residential city but a place of pilgrimage where people would come from miles around for ceremonies. People began to make pottery even before crops,” according to the Lost Kingdoms of Africa, Season 1, Ep. 1 – Nubia (the Sudan). (Sept. 8, 2019)This irrigation waterway, at the entrance of the Kerma Civilization Complex in Kerma, Sudan, comes from the ancient Nile River. Plus, the northern area experience some flooding during a recent heavy rainstorm. (Sept. 8, 2019)The Kerma Museum contains relics and is the entrance to the remains of the Nubian Civilization Complex’s Western Deffufa from the ancient Kingdom of Kerma. (Sept. 8, 2019)The mudbrick temple of the Western Deffufa in Kerma, Sudan, c. 2050-1750 BC where ceremonies were performed on top. The deffufa is a unique structure in Nubian Architecture. Kerma was a large urban center that was built around a large mud brick temple, known as the Western Deffufa. Some unique aspects of this culture were beautiful pottery, the importance of cattle and a system of defense. (Sept. 8, 2019)Habab standing on the modern stair-case of the Western Defuffa inside the remains of the ancient Kingdom of Kerma in the modern-day city of Kerma, Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)The modern stair-case of the Western Defuffa inside the remains of the ancient Kingdom of Kerma in the modern-day city of Kerma, Sudan. Within this solid mud brick building mass there were no interior apartments and only the remains of a narrow winding stairway which led to the top of the structure. (Sept. 8, 2019)The upstairs landing of the Western Defuffa, with the remains of an alabaster column at the ancient Kingdom of Kerma in present-day Kerma. (Sept. 8, 2019)Habab and me standing at the top of the Western Defuffu of the Kingdom of Kerma which is regarded as the first Nubian state, and its capital of Kerma is an important archaeological site. (Sept. 8, 2019)Views from the top of the Western Defuffa in the Kingdom of Kerma surrounded by substantial fortifications, including a wall. Many of the houses were of the traditional circular plan, of grass on a wooden frame, but others were rectangular of stone construction, and some of mud brick. It’s been estimated that there were some 150 or 200 households, perhaps as many as 2,000 people living here. (Sept. 8, 2019)Views from the top of the Western Defuffa in the Kingdom of Kerma in present-day Kerma. It’s been estimated that there were some 150 or 200 households, perhaps as many as 2,000 people living here. The royal Kerma was surrounded by substantial fortifications, including a wall. (Sept. 8, 2019)Views from the top of the Western Defuffa in the Kingdom of Kerma in present-day Kerma. Its been estimated that there were some 150 or 200 households, perhaps as many as 2,000 people living here. The royal Kerma was surrounded by substantial fortifications, including a wall. Many of the houses were of the traditional circular plan, of grass on a wooden frame, but others were rectangular of stone construction, and some of mud brick. (Sept. 8, 2019)In 2003, a pit containing seven finely carved granite statues called the Nubian Black Pharaohs who ruled Egypt and the Sudan in the 25th Dynasty, were found, broken on purpose, in the temple of Amun in Dukki Gel, close to Kerma, by Swiss archaeologist Charles Bonnet. Brought up from a pit, these seven statues are the pride of the Kerma Museum, which was especially designed to shelter them. “These statues represent the last two rulers of the 25th Egyptian dynasty, Taharqa and Tanwetamani, and three of the first kings of the Napata dynasty, Senkamanisken, Anlamani and Aspelta, who then ruled the land from the Second to the Sixth Cataract. The analysis of these statues revealed that they were intentionally damaged using a bronze chisel, possibly during the military campaign led by Pharaoh Psamtik II around 591 BC,” according to a description at the Kerma Museum. The well preserved statues are thought to date back to approximately 600 BC. (Sept. 8, 2019)In 2003, a pit containing seven finely carved granite statues were found, broken on purpose, in the temple of Amun in Dukki Gel, close to Kerma, by Swiss archaeologist Charles Bonnet. Called the Nubian Black Pharaohs, they ruled Egypt and the Sudan in the 25th Dynasty. Brought up from a pit, these seven statues are the pride of the Kerma Museum, which was especially designed to shelter them. (Sept. 8, 2019)The carved granite statues of the Nubian Black Pharaohs who ruled Egypt and the Sudan in the 25th Dynasty. (Sept. 8, 2019)Me with the cache of Black Pharoahs at the Kerma Museum part of the Kerma Civilization Complex. The pharaohs were discovered in 2003 at Dukakis Gel by the Swiss Archaeological Mission. (Sept. 8, 2019)After visiting the Kerma Museum, the Western Deffufa, which is just a portion of the ancient Kingdom of Kerma, we made our way into the town of modern Kerma for a quick lunch. (Sept. 8, 2019)We normally stop at different eating establishments along our journey so Jamal can prepare our lunch and I’ve enjoyed seeing how the locals mingle. And, more often than not, it’s mostly men that are out and about and eating together. And, these men, as is customary eating from the same bowl or plate using their hands or bread as their utensils. In the town of Kerma, Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)Alcohol is forbidden in the Sudan. It’s illegal, when entering the country, to bring in alcohol. But Veno is a non-alcoholic drink that’s a carbonated tasty drink that is thoroughly refreshing during the swelteringly hot days in the Sudan. Unfortunately, not everyone we stopped for lunch offered this but our lunch stop in the town of Kerma did. (Sept. 8, 2019)A place to sit, have coffee and a conversation at a small coffee stand next to the restaurant in Kerma where we had lunch. (Sept. 8, 2019)Although mud brick houses are the norm, decorating the exterior gates is a way for Kerma residents to show their creativity and individuality. (Sept. 8, 2019)Colorful residential Nubian gates in Kerma, Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)Mud bricks used to make businesses and residences throughout the Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)Colorful art work decorating a fence at a school in Kerma, Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)Colorful art work decorating a fence at a school in Kerma, Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)A gorgeous and colorful Nubian gate in Kerma, Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)Even though the ancient Kingdom of Kerma is known for its pottery, modern Kerma continues the tradition with these colorful water jugs placed across the sides of the roads for travelers seeking a place to rest and water to drink. (Sept. 8, 2019)A woman resting under the shade, selling bread, the staple of Sudan, with the large pottery jars of water behind her in Kerma, Sudan. (Sept. 8, 2019)Me still a bit rumpled after my shower at our guest house in Kerma. Habab, my beautiful Real Sudan guide, gave me this so I would not have to undress in the rather less than Western Standards shower bathroom combo located outside by the interior courtyard area…and then I could also wear it once I got out of the shower. This gorgeous dress was a complete comfort and lifesaver for me. Thank you gracious and kind Habab. (Sept. 8, 2019)The exterior gate of our guesthouse in Kerma that first leads to an interior courtyard. (Sept. 9, 2019)The interior courtyard of our guesthouse in Kerma. The open door leads to the bedrooms. And, although not pictured to the left is where the outdoor shower/bathroom combo is located. (Sept. 9, 2019)The shower and toilet combo of the outdoor bathroom at our guesthouse in Kerma located to the left of the above pictured outdoor and enclosed courtyard. (Sept. 9, 2019)The interior area of the guesthouse with rooms to the left and right. (Sept. 9, 2019)The hallway of our guesthouse in Kerma that leads to my bedroom. (Sept. 9, 2019)The door of my bedroom at our guesthouse in Kerma. (Sept. 9, 2019)My bedroom at our guesthouse in Kerma. My new dress from Habab matches the bedroom decor. The three twin beds are covered with what looks like a fancy and rather pretty covering or top which were a little dirty and the only things covering the mattresses. Thankfully I brought my own sheet, a sleeping bag liner, that I originally used while I was camping in South Africa. But this place actually had a cooling unit and a ceiling fan. Regardless of the bed coverings at this guesthouse, I got a needed good night’s sleep. (Sept. 8, 2019)
Day 4 – Sai Island: Kerma Necropolis & Ottoman Fort; plus a Sheikh’s Qubba
I like that our mornings are early because the sun and heat around noon can truthfully be rather oppressive.
Today, we left our Kerma guesthouse to make our way to Sai Island, a large island on the Nile River that contains a variety of archaeological sites including the Kerma necropolis, the remains of an Ottoman mudbrick fort along with the ruins of a medieval church. The best part of this trip is traveling with Habab, who has worked on many of the archeological sites and who is also working on her PHD in archaeology. Between her knowledge and her contacts, we’ve been able to enter certain archaeological sites that might well have been closed to any others. And, again, we’re usually the only people at these incredible archeological sites.
Here are the treasures of Old Sai on Sai Island in the Sudan.
That’s Habab, getting ready to get on the boat that will take us across the Nile River from Tabaj to Sai Island in the Sudan. (Sept. 9, 2019)Me getting in a selfie with our Sai Island boat driver, Moobara, from Sai Island who is taking Habab and I across the Nile River from Tabaj to Sai. Although it was a brief crossing, the fact that I was on the ancient Nile River was exciting. (Sept. 9, 2019)With our boat docked on the Sai Island banks of the Nile River, Habab and I jump into a small truck to make our way to the archeological sites of Old Sai on Sai Island. (Sep. 9, 2019)Habab walking out to the Kerma Necropolis or Cemetery on Sai Island in the Sudan. Based on ceramic materials discovered in the cemeteries on Sai Island and at the Kerma Civilization Complex, three chronological periods can be distinguished: Early Kerma (circa 2450-2050 B.C.), Middle Kerma (circa 2050-1750 B.C.) and Classic Kerma (circa 1750-1480 B.C.). (Sept. 9, 2019)The Kerma Necropolis on Sai Island in the Sudan is considered to be one of the most impressive in Nubia, notably because of the number of circles of black and white stones that mark the location of the various burials. G.A. Reisner (1867-1942), an American archaeologist of Ancient Egypt, Nubia and Palestine from Harvard, excavated various tumuli containing graves with hundreds of skeletons and a great variety of objects. He determined that Kerma should not be regarded as a mere Egyptian trading post dating back to about 2000 BC, but as the ancient capital of the Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 9, 2019)The Kerma Necropolis on Sai Island in the Sudan is considered to be one of the most impressive cemeteries in Nubia, because of its innumerable circles of black and white stones that mark the location of the burials. (Sept. 9, 2019)The Kerma Necropolis on Sai Island is considered one of the most impressive cemeteries in Nubia, because of its innumerable circles of black and white stones marking burials. (Sept. 9, 2019)A close-up of the black and white stones, along with pottery shards, at the Kerma Necropolis on Sai Island. (Sept. 9, 2019)Me at the Kerma Necropolis on Sai Island. (Sept. 9, 2019)Ruins of a former Ottoman fortress that stood guard over the Nile River around the 16th century was constructed on the remains of an Egyptian town built 3,000 years earlier. The site is currently being excavated by French archaeologists and thanks to my guide Habab, we were able to visit it. In the distance is the view of Jebel Abri rising out of the desert. (Sept. 9, 2019)Ruins of a former Ottoman fortress that stood guard over the Nile River being excavated by French archaeologists. In the distance is the view of Jebel Abri rising out of the desert. The fortress is constructed on the stone remains of a New Kingdom Egyptian town built nearly 3,000 years earlier. The site is currently being excavated by French archaeologists and thanks to my guide Habab, we were able to visit it. (Sept. 9, 2019)The ruins of the Ottoman fort on Sai Island was built on top of an ancient Egyptian town some 3000 years later. (Sept. 9, 2019)The ruins of the Ottoman fort on Sai Island was built on top of an ancient Egyptian town some 3000 years later. (Sept. 9, 2019)The ruins of the Ottoman fort on Sai Island was built on top of an ancient Egyptian town some 3000 years later. (Sept. 9, 2019)View of Jebel Abri and the ancient Nile River from the banks of Sai Island in the Sudan. (Sept. 9, 2019)Construction is underway for a museum on Sai Island called Sai Museum in the Sudan. (Sept. 9, 2019)Construction is underway for a museum on Sai Island called Sai Museum in the Sudan. (Sept. 9, 2019)Construction is underway for a museum on Sai Island called Sai Museum in the Sudan. (Sept. 9, 2019)Leaving Sai Island to head back to Tabaj. (Sept. 9, 2019)Holding on for dear life, as we make our way back across the Nile River from Sai Island back to Tabaj where Jamal is waiting to take us to the village of Abri for a late lunch. (Sept. 9, 2019)The palm grove of the village of Tabaj where Jamal was waiting for Habab and I to return from our time on Sai Island. (Sept. 9, 2019)Mud bricks laid out to dry at the palm grove village of Tabaj. (Sept. 9, 2019)After our morning journey to Sai Island, Jamal brought us to the town of Abri where he prepared our late lunch. (Sept. 9, 2019)The restaurant where we ate lunch in the town of Abri. Jamal prepares our lunches at various restaurants throughout our trip. That’s Jamal waving to the owner of this place. (Sept. 9, 2019)Jamal’s delicious lentals and potatoes for lunch in the town of Abri. (Sept. 9, 2019)Jamal’s delicious chicken for lunch in the town of Abri. (Sept. 9, 2019)Jamals’s delicious Okra for lunch in the town of Abri. (Sept. 9, 2019)The town of Abri where we stoped for lunch after our trip to Sai Island. (Sept. 9, 2019)The market in the town of Abri where we stoped for lunch after our trip to Sai Island. (Sept. 9, 2019)The market in the town of Abri where we stoped for lunch after our trip to Sai Island. (Sept. 9, 2019)The market in the town of Abri where we stoped for lunch after our trip to Sai Island. (Sept. 9, 2019)The Qubba, a tomb or mausoleum, of Shaikh Idris Al-Mahjoub who lived in the area near the town of Abri during the early 19th century had this leveled mud-brick dome made for him and his family. This burial tomb is different from those seen around the Sudan because it’s leveled pyramid-looking design is from Morocco. (Sept. 9, 2019)Inside the Qubba, a tomb or mausoleum, of Shaikh Idris Al-Mahjoub who lived in the area near the town of Abri during the early 19th century had this leveled mud-brick dome made for him and his family. (Sept. 9, 2019)Inside the Qubba, a tomb or mausoleum, of Shaik Idris Al-Mahjoub who lived in the area near the town of Abri during the early 19th century had this leveled mud-brick dome made for him and his family. (Sept. 9, 2019)Inside the Qubba, a tomb or mausoleum, of Shaik Idris Al-Mahjoub who lived in the area near the town of Abri during the early 19th century had this leveled mud-brick dome made for him and his family. These burial markers inside the qubba are close family members of Shaik Idris Al-Mahjoub. (Sept. 9, 2019)The outdoor cemetery by the Qubba of Shaik Idris Al-Mahjoub, near the town of Abri, where family was buried. (Sept. 9, 2019)A close-up of the outdoor cemetery by the Qubba of Shaik Idris Al-Mahjoub, near the town of Abri, where family was buried. (Sept. 9, 2019)A close-up of the outdoor cemetery by the Qubba of Shaik Idris Al-Mahjoub, near the town of Abri, where family was buried. (Sept. 9, 2019)Our Nubian Guest House for the night in Wawa. (Sept. 10, 2019)The open courtyard area of the Nubian Guest House in Wawa. (Sept. 10, 2019)Although there were bedrooms at the Nubian Guest House in Wawa, I chose to sleep outside on this porch because the bedrooms had no windows and no air conditioning. This turned out to be a cooler alternative. (Sept. 10, 2019)
Day 5 – The 3rd Cataract, Sebu rock art, Tumbos & sunset on the Nile River
I always associated the word ‘cataract’ with vision problems. But here in the Sudan cataracts are where the water surfaces of the Nile River are broken up by numerous small and large boulders along the river bed that stretches between Khartoum and Aswan in Egypt.
“The cataracts are sections where the river tumbles over rocks and have long kept boats from going up and down the river from Equatorial Africa to Egypt. There are six classical cataracts, but there are really many more. The cataracts are also significant because these define river segments where granites and other hard rocks come down to the edge of the Nile. The floodplain is narrow to nonexistent here, and opportunities for agricultural development is correspondingly limited. These two reasons – navigation obstacles and restricted floodplain – are the most important reasons why this part of the Nile is thinly populated and why the historic border between Egypt in the north and Nubia or Sudan in the south is the First Cataract at Aswan,” as explained by the University of Texas in Dallas.
The heat during the day is oppressive but today the beat down from the sun was even more intense. After the 3rd Cataract and then not too far away was an area called Sebu, where Sudanese from ancient times would caravan through and some would tell their stories on the rocks, ancient graffiti, now called rock art.
Then we had a tremendously delicious lunch at another little hole in the wall place where we ate beans, fried fish and onions along wild green chili…African style. I really should have taken a photo of the food. It was delicious. I honestly have not had a real big appetite but last night’s dinner of tomato sauce tuna, spaghetti and a salad made by Jamal on a gas hot plate with no electricity and today’s lunch, were so good, I just ate and ate and ate.
We also made our way back to our original guest house in Kerma before visiting the archaeological site of Tumbos to explore its ancient granite quarry, see the hieroglyphic rock inscriptions and watch the sunset on the banks of the River Nile, which the Sudanese call Shalall, with its own ancient history and legacy.
Here’s to another wonderful day in the Sudan.
Getting in a selfie with Habab and Jamal with views of the 3rd Cataract in the Nile River, near the village of Sebu with its rock art. A cataract is defined as water running between the rocks. And the huge granite rocks, which haven broken and drifted down stream can be seen for miles. (Sept. 10, 2019)The ruined rock formations of the 3rd Cataract near the village of Sebu, Sudan. (Sept. 10, 2019)The ruined rock formations of the 3rd Cataract near the village of Sebu. (Sept. 10, 2019)Another view of the ruined rock formations of the 3rd Cataract near the village of Sebu. (Sept. 10, 2019)The remains of a fortress overlooking the 3rd Cataract near the village of Sebu where the Middle Egyptian Kingdom fort was used as a watch point over the Nile River by both the Christians, who were in the Sudan from 5th century until the 13ty century and the Muslims from the 7th century. (Sept. 10, 2019)The initial makings of a traditional Nubian mud-brick house in route to the village of Sebu. (Sept. 10, 2019)The initial makings of a traditional Nubian mud-brick house on our way to the village of Sebu. (Sept. 10, 2019)The rock formations around the Nile River at the village of Sebu. (Sept. 10, 2019)Passing through the small village of Sebu to explore the rocky trail of the rock art at the ancient caravans depicting figures and scenes from pre-historic through modern times. (Sept. 10, 2019)Jamal leading the way various prehistoric graffiti, or, more commonly referred to as rock art in Sebu where ancient caravans used as a passageway and rest stop using the rocks as a canvas for self expression and to tell the story of their lives. Despite their significance, the rock drawings, which depict figures and scenes from pre-historic through modern times, are neither protected nor fully documented. (Sept. 10, 2019)Nile boat rock art at Sebu. (Sept. 10, 2019)Nile boat rock art at Sebu. (Sept. 10, 2019)The rock art of Sebu. (Sept. 10, 2019)The rock art of Sebu. (Sept. 10, 2019)The rock art of Sebu. (Sept. 10, 2019)The rock art of Sebu. (Sept. 10, 2019)A palm tree garage in the desert of Tombos. (Sept. 10, 2019)An unfinished statue of a possible Kushite king in the ancient granite quarry around Tombos. (Sept. 10, 2019)An unfinished statue of a possible Kushite king in the ancient granite quarry around Tumbos. (Sept. 10, 2019)An unfinished statue of a possible Kushite king in the ancient granite quarry around Tumbos. (Sept. 10, 2019)Walking through the ancient granite quarry to the rocky banks of the River Nile in Tombos to see the hieroglyphic rock inscriptions among the rock formations of the 3rd Cataract and to see the sunset on the banks of the River Nile. (Sept. 10, 2019)The tilted boulder contains the inscription of Merymose, a Viceroy of Kush under Amenhotep III; and the back of it bears the stelae of Thutmose I at Tombos, the ancient rock quarry near the banks of the Nile River. (Sept. 10, 2019)The stelae of Merymose on a tilted boulder in the ancient quarry in Tombos. Merymose was a Viceroy of Kush under Amenhotep III. He served for almost the entire four decades of that reign and led an attack against the Nubians. Merymose is shown wearing a long skirt with a tie at the waist, an upper garment probably with sleeves and a shoulder-length wig. (Sept. 10, 2019)The stelae of Pharaoh Thutmose I on a large boulder in the ancient quarry in Tombos. The ancient inscription dated to Year 2 attests the Pharaoh’s military campaign into Nubia around the area of the 3rd cataract of the Nile River. (Sept. 10, 2019)The large granite boulders of the ancient quarry around the banks of the 3rd Cataract of the Nile River in Tombos are carved with well-preserved hieroglyphics. (Sept. 10, 2019)The large granite boulders of the ancient quarry around the banks of the 3rd Cataract of the Nile River in Tombos are carved with well-preserved hieroglyphics. (Sept. 10, 2019)A close-up of the well-preserved hieroglyphic granite rock inscription by the bank of the Nile River in Tombos. (Sept. 10, 2019)A close-up of the well-preserved hieroglyphic granite rock inscription by the bank of the Nile River in Tombos. (Sept. 10, 2019)My knowledgeable, kind, caring and beautiful guide, Habab, on the Nile River in the village of Tombos checking her phone to make sure she got a good shot of me, with the sun setting behind me to send to Samir Abbass, the owner/operator of Real Sudan. Habab and Jamal have been ever so kind and gracious. It’s been an honor getting to know her. (Sept. 10, 2019)The sun setting on the Nile River in the village of Tumbos along the ancient granite rock quarry with well-preserved hieroglyphic inscriptions. The Nile River, which the Sudanese call Shalall, has its own ancient history and legacy. (Sept. 10, 2019)The sun setting on the Nile River in the village of Tombos where I’m covering my head to keep the little aggressive nats and flies from buzzing around my ears and eyes. I wasn’t going to let anything stop me from experiencing this glorious moment. I’m enjoying the view from the same river bank with the well-preserved hieroglyphic rock inscriptions. (Sept. 10, 2019)One more of me with the sunset very close to happening at the site of the ancient quarry along the Nile River in Tombos. (Sept. 10, 2019)Good evening sunset. I so enjoyed your day ending performance at the ancient quarry along the Nile River in Tombos, Sudan. (Sept. 10, 2019)
Day 6 – More Kingdom of Kerma’s Dukki Gel & Eastern Deffufa; then Karima’s El-Kurru Royal Cemetery & Jebel Barkal pyramids
My access to the internet and WiFi has been limited and the tech girl in me misses it. I fully engage while I’m traveling so staying present and in the moment is important to taking in the history of these ancient sites. Then in the evening, once I’ve had time to go over my notes, photos and additional research, that’s when I get my Facebook posts done for My Travel Notions page. Without access to the internet, I’m unable to research and post but I still write. I use the journaling app Day One to get my photos together and write the historical information for my captions from my notes and whatever other experiences I partook of during my day.
Being in the Sudan, the home of the Black Pharaohs, has humbled me and encouraged me to keep writing and taking photos so that hopefully when I get home, I can spread the word about the beauty of this country, from its history to its people.
Spending the day taking in more archaeological sites of the Kingdom of Kerma, which flourished from around 2500 to 1500 BC in ancient Nubia. We visited the remains or foundations of the Dukki Gel, the religious center of the great Kingdom of Kerma, still under excavation. The area is protected, like all the other 35 or so archeological sites in the Sudan, by the 1999 Sudan Antiquities Ordinance as overseen by the National Corporation for Antiquities & Museums in Khartoum. The architecture at this site reveals that many monuments were built of mud brick with oval or circular plans, something unknown in Nubia and Egypt.
The El Kurru Royal Cemetery in Karima, where many of the ‘Black Pharaohs,’ of Kush who conquered Egypt around 715–653 BCE, were buried. The site was first excavated in 1918–19 by the American archaeologist George Reisner on behalf of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston and Harvard University. In 2013, under the direction of Geoff Emberling, a team from the Kelsey Museum of Archaeology of the University of Michigan began work at the site. The goal of the Kelsey expedition was to investigate possible remains of an ancient royal city surrounding the pyramid field (of which, unfortunately, no trace was found). This site was inscribed as part of the UNESCO World Heritage area ‘Jebel Barkal and the Sites of the Napatan Region’ in 2003. Napata was a city-state of ancient Nubia on the west bank of the Nile at the site of modern Karima.
Then we ended the day in front of the amazing site of the Jebel Barkal Royal Cemetery pyramids, where some 20 ancient pyramids belonging to Nubian kings and queens still stand as the royal necropolis for the ancient city of Napata, the first capital of the Nubian Kingdom of Kush. Standing in the midst of these pyramids made me giddy and gave me goose bumps.
I know on my upcoming trip to Egypt, I will see incredible pyramids too but seeing the pyramids of the black kings and queens was paramount on my list of ancient sites.
Driving through the town of Kerma, passed the ferry dock from Kerma to the island of Bedin, as we make our way along the asphalt road to Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)Driving through the town of Kerma as we make our way along the asphalt road to Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)Driving through the town of Kerma as we make our way along the asphalt road to Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)Driving through the town of Kerma as we make our way along the asphalt road to Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)Driving through the town of Kerma as we make our way along the asphalt road to Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)The children heading to school in the morning as we drive through the town of Kerma on our way to Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)As we were driving through the town of Kerma, I saw the men socializing separately, but here, under the shade with pottery water jars are the women with their children, still in Kerma just away from the town. (Sept. 11, 2019)The foundations of the ancient Dukki Gel, the religious center of the Kingdom of Kerma reveals many monuments were built of mud brick with oval or circular plans, something unknown in Nubia and Egypt. The site is still under excavation and is protected, like all the other 35 or so archeological sites in the Sudan, by the 1999 Sudan Antiquities Ordinance as overseen by the National Corporation for Antiquities & Museums in Khartoum. (Sept. 11, 2019)The foundations of the ancient Dukki Gel, the religious center of the Kingdom of Kerma. (Sept. 11, 2019)The foundations of the ancient Dukki Gel, the religious center of the Kingdom of Kerma. (Sept. 11, 2019)Outline foundation views of the temples once present at Doki Gel, the religious center of the great ancient Kingdom of Kerma. This photo was taken from on top of one of the large mounds of earth created while excavating the site. (Sept. 11, 2019)The foundations of the ancient Dukki Gel, the religious center of the Kingdom of Kerma. (Sept. 11, 2019)This is where 40 black granite statues of the Black Pharaohs were found, in January 2003, at Dukki Gel, the ancient religious center of the Kerma Kingdom. The “Black Pharaohs,” on exhibit at the Kerma Museum, were deliberately broken in order to destroy the “power” of the pharaohs represented: all are broken at the neck and the legs. (Sept. 11, 2019)Outline foundation views of the temples once present at Dukki Gel, the religious center of the great ancient Kingdom of Kerma in the Sudan. This photo was taken from on top of one of the large mounds of earth created while excavating the site. In the distance, to the right, almost hidden behind the palm trees is the Western Deffufa, the residential care of the great Kingdom of Kerma. (Deffufa means a large mud brick structure with no rooms. This one may have been used as a training station or watching point.) (Sept. 11, 2019)The ruins of the mud brick Eastern Deffufa of the Kingdom of Kerma is believed to be associated with funerary ceremonies and surrounding it are some 30,000 tumult or graves. (Sept. 11, 2019)The front entrance to the ancient mud brick Eastern Deffufa ruins, considered a funerary chapel of the ancient Kerma. (Sept. 11, 2019)Me standing at the entrance into the ancient royal funerary chapel ruins of the mud brick Eastern Deffufa of ancient Kerma. (Sept. 11, 2019)Inside the royal funerary chapel of the mud brick Eastern Defuffa used during ancient Kerma. (Sept. 11, 2019)The Eastern Deffufa of the Kingdom of Kerma’s vast cemetery of some 30,000 low, round graves, many of whom were ritually sacrificed to accompany the king to the underworld. (Sept. 11, 2019)The Eastern Deffufa of the Kingdom of Kerma’s vast cemetery of some 30,000 low, round graves, many of whom were ritually sacrificed to accompany the king to the underworld. (Sept. 11, 2019)The Eastern Deffufa of ancient Kerma’s vast cemetery of some 30,000 low, round graves, many of whom were ritually sacrificed to accompany the king to the underworld. (Sept. 11, 2019)Time to gas up for the farmers, with their barrels and containers, as we made our way to Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)Time to gas up for the farmers, with their barrels and containers, as we make our way to Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)A bus stop, which is why there are both men and women eating, but once the bus driver honked to leave, the place cleared out. We stopped here for lunch. (Sept. 11, 2019)The cleared out bus stop area where we stopped for lunch. That’s Jamal, our driver and cook, doing his thing in the kitchen. (Sept. 11, 2019)And, this is the meal Jamal put together for us. Thank you Jamal for your driving and meal preparation skills. (Sept. 11, 2019)Making our way to Karima on the asphalt road in the Nubian desert of the Sudan. (Sept. 11, 2019)Water placed in jugs on the side of the asphalt highway heading to Karima, Sudan, for any one who is thirsty. And that includes our wonderful Real Sudan driver and cook, Jamal. (Sept. 11, 2019)Our guesthouse in Karima with a view of Jebel El Barkl, a flat top small mountain, in the Nubia region. (Sept. 11, 2019)The El Kurru Royal Cemetery in Karima, where many of the ‘Black Pharaohs,’ of Kush who conquered Egypt around 715–653 BCE, were buried. The site was first excavated in 1918–19 by the American archaeologist George Reisner on behalf of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston and Harvard University. In 2013, under the direction of Geoff Emberling, a team from the Kelsey Museum of Archaeology of the University of Michigan began work at the site. The goal of the Kelsey expedition was to investigate possible remains of an ancient royal city surrounding the pyramid field (of which, unfortunately, no trace was found). This site was inscribed as part of the UNESCO World Heritage area ‘Jebel Barkal and the Sites of the Napatan Region’ in 2003. Napata was a city-state of ancient Nubia on the west bank of the Nile at the site of modern Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)The El-Kurra Royal Cemetery in Karima began with tombs as a singular ring around a tomb. (Sept. 11, 2019)The El-Kurra Royal Cemetery in Karima began with single ring tombs and moved to two rings. (Sept. 11, 2019)The El-Kurra Royal Cemetery in Karima began with single circle tombs and moved on to two rings and then onto a horseshoe shaped tomb. (Sept. 11, 2019)Me standing in front of the remains of the pyramid for Pharaoh Piankhi (Piye’s) tomb at the El-Kurru Royal Cemetery in Karima. Piye was the Kushite king and founder of the 25th dynasty of Egypt who ruled both Egypt and the Sudan from 744–714 BC. El-Kurru was a royal burial ground for many of the kings and queens of the dynasty of Napata from about 850-650 BC, including burials of kings who conquered Egypt and ruled there during its 25th Dynasty. El-Kurru is also part of the UNESCO World Heritage site of “Gebel Barkal and the Sites of the Napatan Region.” (Sept. 11, 2019)The staired entrance to Pharaoh Piankhi (Piye’s) tomb at the El-Kurra Royal Cemetery in Karima. Piye, an ancient Kushite king, was founder of the 25th dynasty of Egypt and ruled both Egypt and the Sudan from 744–714 BC from the city of Napata, located deep in Nubia, modern-day Sudan. (Sept. 11, 2019)A close-up of the staired entrance to Pharaoh Piankhi (Piye’s) tomb at the El-Kurra Royal Cemetery in Karima. Piye, an ancient Kushite king, was founder of the 25th dynasty of Egypt and ruled both Egypt and the Sudan from 744–714 BC from the city of Napata, located deep in Nubia, modern-day Sudan. (Sept. 11, 2019)Me at the entrance tomb of King Tantamani or Tanwetamani, a Pharaoh of Egypt and the Kingdom of Kush with the remains of the 25th Dynasty Pharaoh Piey’s pyramid in the distance at the El-Kurru Royal Cemetery in Kerma. (Sept. 11, 2019)Me at the entrance tomb of King Tantamani or Tanwetamani, a Pharaoh of Egypt and the Kingdom of Kush at the El-Kurru Royal Cemetery in Kerma , just before sunset. (Sept. 11, 2019)The underground entrance to the burial chamber of the tomb of King Tantamani or Tanwetamani, a Pharaoh of Egypt and the Kingdom of Kush at the El-Kurru Royal Cemetery in Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)The burial chamber of the King Tantamani or Tanwetamani, a Pharaoh of Egypt and the Kingdom of Kush at the El-Kurru Royal Cemetery in Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)The paintings in the burial chamber of the Pharaoh Tantamani at the El-Kurru Royal Cemetery in Karima with the wall paintings depicting his life. (Sept. 11, 2019)The paintings in the burial chamber of the Pharaoh Tantamani at the El-Kurru Royal Cemetery in Karima with the wall paintings depicting his life. (Sept. 11, 2019)The paintings of a sky full of stars in the burial chamber of the Pharaoh Tantamani at the El-Kurru Royal Cemetery in Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)The mortuary temple of the El-Kurru Royal Cemetery in Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)The mortuary temple of the El-Kurru Royal Cemetery in Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)Modern Kerma surrounding the El-Kurru Royal Cemetery. (Sept. 11, 2019)The views of the desert in Karima with a camel herder as we make our way to the pyramids at Jebel Barkal just before sunset. (Sept. 11, 2019)I made it, not just to the Sudan but here to Karima, once the city-state of ancient Nubia called Napata and these ancient pyramids of Jebel Barkal are the resting place to unknown African royals. Napata was at the southern end of the Egyptian power during the Old Kingdom and later became the centre of the second Nubian kingdom. (Sept. 11, 2019)Ending the day at the pyramids of the Jebel Barkal Royal Cemetery in Karima was so overwhelmingly wonderful it made me feel truly giddy. These are the pyramids of the Jebel Barkal Royal Cemetery in Karima that that has around nine Nubian pyramids, in relatively good condition, built between the 3rd and first centuries BC. Around 1450 BC, the Egyptian Pharaoh Thutmose III extended his reign and considered Jebel Barkal its southern limit. And, it’s here that Thutmose III founded the city of Napata that, about 300 years later, became the capital of the independent Kingdom of Kush. The mountain, together with the historical city of Napata and other ancient sites, are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. (Sept. 11, 2019)Sharing this moment, at the pyramids of the Jebel Barkal Royal Cemetery in Karima, with this absolutely fabulous woman and my guide through this incredible experience, Habab. Isn’t she beautiful? (Sept. 11, 2019)The pyramids of the Jebel Barkal Royal Cemetery with the background of flat-top sacred Jebel Barkal mountain in Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)The pyramids of the Jebel Barkal Royal Cemetery in Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)The pyramids of the Jebel Barkal Royal Cemetery in Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)The pyramids of the Jebel Barkal Royal Cemetery in Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)The pyramids of the Jebel Barkal Royal Cemetery in Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)My cool and comfortable room at our guest house in Karima with the Jebel Barkal mountain as our neighbor along with plans to explore it tomorrow. (Sept. 11, 2019)Our evening dinner under the stars at our guest house in Karima. (Sept. 11, 2019)
Day 7 – The Kingdom of Kush: From Jebel Barkal through the Nubian Desert to Meroe
It took watching Henry Louis Gates’ 6-part series “Africa’s Great Civilizations,” to help me understand what the Kushites did to create their Kingdom of Kush and to regain the rule of their land while also ruling Egypt. When the Egyptians invaded Kush, Jebel Barkal became the holy site where they built an awe-inspiring temple to Amun and it is also where Piye, who goes to war to take back his people’s land, expands the temple by building a palace to show his kingship. Piye becomes the new Kushite King of Nubia and Egypt along with the founder of the 25th Dynasty of Egypt’s Pharaohs.
“For over 2000 years, the kingdoms of Kush and Egypt prospered and grew as kindred civilizations at opposite ends of the Nile Valley. By 1,500 B.C., Egypt was the world’s greatest power, controlling trade routes to the Middle East. But Egypt’s gateway to the precious resources of the interior of Africa was Kush,” said Murtada Bushara, an archaeologist from Part 1 of Henry Louis Gates’ “Africa’s Great Civilizations” series. “Kush supplied luxury items such as gold to Egypt’s flourishing 18th Dynasty. From Tutankhamun’s face mask to the trading expeditions led by Hatshepsut and the wealth amassed by Queen Nefertiti, Egyptian pharaohs required endless supplies of exotic goods to help their passage into the afterlife.”
So around 1,500 BC, the Egyptian Pharaoh Thutmose I led his troops to war against the Kushite Kingdom. For 400 years, the people of Kush would struggle under and against Egyptian rule while Egyptian plundered the region’s gold mines through annual tribute. The Egyptians also brought along their culture and their gods.
It was the Egyptian god Amun that inspired Piye to conquer Egypt portraying Kush as the champion of Amun. “For the ancient Egyptians and the ancient Kushites, this pinnacle (of Jebel Barkal) symbolized a serpent that was a protective deity on the crown of the Pharaoh that spit fire and poison at the Pharaoh’s enemies. So, this is what gave Jebel Barkal its mystical association that led Egyptians and Kushites to build and rebuild their temples over the centuries,” said Dr. Geoff Emberling, from Part 1 of Henry Louis Gates’ “Africa’s Great Civilizations” series.
That’s the story of Jebel Barkal and even more so the story of the Kingdom of Kush.
The ancient and sacred flat-topped sandstone mountain-rock in Karima, Jebel (or Gebel) Barkal and the historical city of Napata, at the foot of the mountain, were named UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2003. The sites, which include Gebel Barkal, El-Kurru and three others, represent the Napatan (900 – 270 BC) and Meroitic (270 BC – 350 AD) cultures of the second Kingdom of Kush. They exhibit an architectural tradition that shaped the political, religious, social and artistic scene of the Middle and Northern Nile Valley for more than 2000 years (1500 BC- 6th Century AD). (Sept. 12, 2019)The ruins of Jebel Barkal’s Amun Temple in Karima, once the ancient city-state of capital of Napata of the ancient Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019)The ram sculptured entrance to Jebel Barkal’s Amun Temple in Karima, once the ancient city-state capital of Napata and the ancient Kingdom of Kush (Sept. 12, 2019)Entering the ruins of Jebel Barkal’s Amun Temple in Karima, once the ancient city-state of capital of Napata of the ancient Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019)Walking through the ruins of Jebel Barkal’s Amun Temple in Karima, once the ancient city-state of capital of Napata of the ancient Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019)The ruins of Jebel Barkal’s Amun Temple in Karima, once the ancient city-state of capital of Napata of the ancient Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019)Both the Egyptians and the Kushites believed that the Jebel Barkal mountain was home to the god Amun of the ancient city-state of Napata of the Kingdom of Kush. It is said that the needle sticking out of the mountain’s southern side, is the shape of a cobra wearing a crown; the symbol of the king. (Sept. 12, 2019)The ruins of Jebel Barkal’s Amun Temple in Karima, once the ancient city-state of capital of Napata of the ancient Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019)Habab and I at the Temple of Mut, dedicated to the goddess Mut, the wife of Amun at Jebel Barkal, Amun’s temple in Karima once the ancient city-state capital of Napata of the ancient Kingdom of Kush. The Temple of Mut was erected by Pharaoh Taharqa in the 680s BC, at a time when he ruled during Egypt’s 25th Dynasty and as ruler of the Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019)Inside the Temple of Mut, with its main chamber and two side chambers with a vestibule and two rows of columns. Buried into the belly of the mountain, and immediately below the needle of rock, is the fresco-decorated Temple of Mut, dedicated to the Egyptian sky goddess. (Sept. 12, 2020)Precious wall paintings and hieroglyphics inside the Temple of Mut at the Jebel Barkal mountainside depicting deities and kings in Karima, the former ancient city-state of Napata, Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019)Precious wall paintings and hieroglyphics inside the Temple of Mut at the Jebel Barkal mountainside depicting deities and kings in Karima, the former ancient city-state of Napata, Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019)Precious wall paintings and hieroglyphics inside the Temple of Mut at the Jebel Barkal mountainside depicting deities and kings in Karima, the former ancient city-state of Napata, Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019)Original paint colors inside the Temple of Mut at Jebel Barkal mountainside in Karima, the former ancient city-state of Napata, Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019)Precious wall paintings depicting deities and kings inside the Temple of Mut at Jebel Barkal mountainside in Karima, the former ancient city-state of Napata, Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019)Precious wall paintings depicting deities and kings inside the Temple of Mut at Jebel Barkal mountainside in Karima, the former ancient city-state of Napata, Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019)Precious wall paintings depicting deities and kings inside the Temple of Mut at Jebel Barkal mountainside in Karima, the former ancient city-state of Napata, Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019)Precious wall paintings depicting deities and kings inside the Temple of Mut at Jebel Barkal mountainside in Karima, the former ancient city-state of Napata, Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019) Precious wall paintings depicting deities and kings inside the Temple of Mut at Jebel Barkal mountainside in Karima, the former ancient city-state of Napata, Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019)Precious wall paintings depicting deities and kings inside the Temple of Mut at Jebel Barkal mountainside in Karima, the former ancient city-state of Napata, Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019)Precious wall paintings depicting deities and kings inside the Temple of Mut at Jebel Barkal mountainside in Karima, the former ancient city-state of Napata, Kingdom of Kush. (Sept. 12, 2019)Our tuk tuk ride from the Jebel Barkal mountainside to the archaeological site museum of Jebel Barkal in Karima. (Sept. 12, 2019)The Jebel Barkal Museum on the archaeological site of Jebel Barkal in Karima. (Sept. 12, 2019)Inside the small Jebel Barkal Museum on the Jebel Barkal archaeological site in Karima. (Sept. 12, 2019)My wonderful guide and archaeologist, Habab, standing between the statues of white sandstone lions from the 1st Century AD at the Jebel Barkal Museum in Karima. (Sept. 12, 2019)A group selfie outside of the Jebel Barkal Museum with Habab, Jamal and museum staffers who are Habab’s friends and co-workers. (Sept. 12, 2019)The drive to Meroe from Karima. (Sept. 12, 2019)The drive to Meroe from Karima. (Sept. 12, 2019)
The Royal Cemetery, Pyramids of the Kushite rulers, in Meroe
It’s almost 7:30 in the evening and we are camped in front of the Meroe Pyramids. Okay, not right in front of the pyramids but at a campsite where the people taking care of the pyramids are camped. All men of course. Habab knows them and they know her. Along with being intelligent and kind, she is also truly fearless. And, Jamal is cooking our dinner. I haven’t liked everything but I have loved pretty much most of what he’s prepared for us. Plus, I just adore his kind spirit.
Tonight is our last dinner together. Just as I’ve gotten used to squatting for the toilet, well, I’m not 100 percent use to it, but close, I’ve developed an understanding as to why the women and the men dress simply. For one thing, it is just too dang hot and for another when you have to go, all you need to do is squat.
Now that I’m here and I see the people and have inhaled their history, my history, our history, I am so glad I did not back out at the last minute out of fear. I’m actually sad that my last day with Habab and Jamal will be tomorrow. This has been an incredible experience for me.
I also realize that my Western ways, which I must admit, I do love, has required me to shut them down and accept what is right in front of me. And, by doing so, I see beyond my Western world trappings to lives lived from the earth in which we all walk on.
We had the option of spending the night at a guesthouse with air conditioning or staying right here at a campsite by the Meroe pyramids. For a few minutes I thought to take the easy way out and go with the guesthouse but then I asked myself, how many times will I go to sleep by the pyramids of the Nubian kings and wake up to the pyramids of the Nubian kings. This is my time, this is my chance. I’m so glad I’m here.
In c. 590 BC, Napata was sacked by the Egyptian Pharaoh Psammeticus II (595-589 BCE) and the capital of Kush was moved to Meroe. So, for now, here’s to the Kingdom of Kush in Meroe and sleeping under the stars in the desert with the pyramids of the Kushite rulers a mere steps away.
Arriving late in the afternoon to Meroe in sight of the Pyramids of the Kushite ruler, known as the Royal Cemetery. And, this is where I get incredibly giddy and excited to finally see these pyramids. (Sept. 12, 2019)The sun setting as we enter our camp site at Meroe where colleagues of Habab work overlooks the open desert in walking distance of the Royal Cemetery pyramids. (Sept. 12, 2019)As the sun sets over the pyramids of Meroe, I am in awe. I am literally steps away from the ancient pyramids of Kushite kings and queens. (Sept. 12, 2019)With our tents up and Jamal working to prepare dinner, I get in a warm shower at the campsite. Although the darkness has covered the pyramids, I know they are there and I know that first thing in the morning, when I open my eyes, I will see them again. (Sept. 12, 2019)
Day 8 – Walking through the pyramids & ruins of Meroe; the temples of Naga and Musawarat & then back to Khartoum
I slept peacefully last night at our campsite in the desert just steps away from the ancient city of Meroe’s pyramids, the royal burial grounds built by the rulers, the Nubian kings and queens, of the ancient Kushite kingdoms. The rebirth of the Kingdom of Kush and its capital of Meroe, which flourished between 700 BC and 400 AD, was green and lush back then and marked by countless palaces and temples.
“The archaeological sites of the Island of Meroe, a semi-desert landscape between the Nile and Atbara rivers, was the heartland of the Kingdom of Kush, a major power from the 8th century B.C. to the 4th century A.D. The property consists of the royal city of the Kushite kings at Meroe, near the River Nile, the nearby religious site of Naga and Musawwarat es Sufra. It was the seat of the rulers who occupied Egypt for close to a century and features, among other vestiges, pyramids, temples and domestic buildings as well as major installations connected to water management. Their vast empire extended from the Mediterranean to the heart of Africa, and the property testifies to the exchange between the art, architectures, religions and languages of both regions,” a description from the UNESCO World Heritage Center on the archaeological sites of the Island of Meroe.
I got to imagine what those surroundings were like as I began my day walking with the rising sun behind me, alone, through the desert to pay my respects to the ancient Nubian kings and queens while feeling privileged to gaze upon their pyramids.
From there we ventured to the ruins of the Amun Temple of the Royal City of Meroe and the temple ruins of Naga, another ruined ancient city of the of the Kingdom of Meroe with its temples of Amun, Apedemak, also known as the Temple of the Lion, and the Hathor chapel or Roman kiosk. Plus, a late lunch at the temple ruins of Mussawwarat El Sufra with its own Lion’s Temple. All this before making our way back to Khartoum and the end of this spectacular week’s journey.
This whole trip has been so awesome. I know I have to go and I want to go, to enjoy the rest of my trip, but now that I’m here, I don’t want to leave. I can’t believe there was a time in my life when I didn’t want to come to Africa, that Africa didn’t hold a historical past, other than slavery, in my mind. I have been proven so very wrong. Next stop on my African adventure is Addis Ababa for an Intrepid Travel tour of Ethiopia.
Here’s to my last full day in the Sudan.
I woke up in the desert as the sun was beginning to rise. I dressed rather quickly, unzipped my tent, crossed through a barbed wire opening and slowly made an amazing walk to the ancient pyramids of Meroe. I looked around to see the light of the sun was following me. And, there I was, all alone with these ancient temples. These pyramids are built of the grainy reddish local sandstone with an attached decorated chapel that faces towards the rising sun, and a burial chamber beneath. (Sept. 13, 2019)Enjoying the sunrise from the pyramids of the Royal Cemetery in Meroe built of the grainy reddish local sandstone with attached decorated chapels facing the rising sun, and a burial chambers below. (Sept. 13, 2019)Enjoying the sunrise from the pyramids of the Royal Cemetery in Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)The pyramids of the Royal Cemetery of Meroe are considered the best preserved of more than 220 pyramids in the Sudan. These pyramids are the burial sites for more than 40 Nubian kings and queens of the Kush Kingdom. These pyramids are built of the grainy reddish local sandstone with an attached decorated chapel that faces towards the rising sun, and a burial chamber beneath. (Sept. 13, 2019)The Italian explorer Giuseppe Ferlini smashed the tops off 40 pyramids of the Royal Cemetery of Meroe in a quest to find their treasure between 1800 and 1870. (Sept. 13, 2019)The pyramids of the Royal Cemetery of Meroe are considered the best preserved of the more than 220 pyramids in the Sudan. These pyramids are the burial sites for more than 40 Nubian kings and queens of the Kush Kingdom. Tarekeniwal was a Kushite King of Meroe of whom little known. He likely ruled the Meroitic empire during the 2nd century AD. (Sept. 13, 2019)The pyramids of the Royal Cemetery of Meroe are the burial sites for more than 40 Nubian kings and queens of the Kush Kingdom. (Sept. 13, 2019)The pyramids of the Royal Cemetery of Meroe are the burial sites for more than 40 Nubian kings and queens of the Kush Kingdom. The Italian explorer Giuseppe Ferlini smashed the tops off 40 pyramids in a quest to find their treasure between 1800 and 1870. (Sept. 13, 2019)The Italian explorer Giuseppe Ferlini smashed the tops off 40 pyramids of the Royal Cemetery of Meroe in a quest to find their treasure between 1800 and 1870. (Sept. 13, 2019)The pyramid and chapel of Queen Shanakdakhete, the earliest known ruling African queen of ancient Nubia reigned during the Kingdom of Kush from about 170 to 150 BC. The pyramids of the Royal Cemetery of Meroe are the burial sites for more than 40 Nubian kings and queens of the Kush Kingdom. (Sept. 13, 2019)Me standing in front of the the front of the pyramid and chapel of Queen Shanakdakhete of the Kingdom of Kush at the Royal Cemetery of Meroe. She is the earliest known ruling African queen of ancient Nubia. (Sept. 13, 2019)Inside the chapel of Queen Shanakdakhete’s pyramid at the Royal Cemetery of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)Sandstone relief from the pyramid chapel of Queen Shanakdakhete at the Royal Cemetery of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)Sandstone relief from the pyramid chapel of Queen Shanakdakhete at the Royal Cemetery of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)Sandstone relief from the pyramid chapel of Queen Shanakdakhete at the Royal Cemetery of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)Sandstone relief from the pyramid chapel of Queen Shanakdakhete at the Royal Cemetery of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)The pyramids and chapels of the Royal Cemetery of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)The pyramids and chapels of the Royal Cemetery of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)The pyramids of the Royal Cemetery of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)The pyramids of the Royal Cemetery of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)My shadow on one of the chapels at the Royal Cemetery of Meroe, considered the best preserved of more than 220 pyramids in the Sudan. These pyramids are the burial sites for more than 40 Nubian kings and queens of the Kush Kingdom. (Sept. 13, 2019)Walking back to the campsite and bidding the pyramids of the Meroe Royal Cemetery good-bye. (Sept. 13, 2019)These two young entrepreneurs were waiting for me at our campsite to buy their pyramids, which I did, when I returned from the Royal Cemetery of Meroe. I bought one from each of these adorable entrepreneurs and got them home safely. (Sept. 13, 2019)Jamal packing up our 4×4 Toyota Land Cruiser at our campsite with the Royal Cemetery of Meroe in the distance. Time to move on to other archaeological sites of the ancient Kingdom of Meroe before heading back to Khartoum and the end of my tour of the Sudan. (Sept. 13, 2014)The working campsite, with its outdoor bathrooms and showers, by the Royal Cemetery of Meroe where we spent the night. (Sept. 13, 2019)The working campsite by the Royal Cemetery of Meroe where we spent the night. (Sept. 13, 2019)The ruins of the ancient and Royal City of Meroe which originally stood on an island in the river, but over time the eastern river channel dried up or was diverted. This processional way leads to the Temple of Amu of the Royal City of Meroe entrance flanked by avenues of rams, as well as other, smaller, shrines. (Sept. 13, 2019)The rams of the Amun Temple of the Royal City of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)The ruins of the Temple of Amun of the ancient Royal City of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)The ruins of the Temple of Amun of the ancient Royal City of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)The ruins of the Temple of Amun of the ancient Royal City of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)The ruins of the Temple of Amun of the ancient Royal City of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)The ruins of the Temple of Amun of the ancient Royal City of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)While walking through the ruins of the Temple of Amun of the ancient Royal City of Meroe Habab and I met these beautiful girls who agreed to take a photo with us. (Sept. 13, 2019)The ruins of the Temple of Amun of the ancient Royal City of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)Driving through the Butana desert, historically called the Island of Meroe, a region between the Atbara and the Nile in the Sudan. There were two other major Meroitic cities in Butana, Musawwarat es-Sufra and Naga. (Sept. 13, 2019)Driving through the Butana desert, historically called the Island of Meroe, a region between the Atbara and Nile in the Sudan. (Sept. 13, 2019)Butana desert locals on our way to the temples of Naga and Musawwarat es-Sufra. (Sept. 13, 2019)The Hathor Chapel or Roman kiosk and the Apedemak Lion Temple of Naga, present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)Habab and I in front of the Hathor Chapel or Roman kiosk of Naga. (Sept. 13, 2019)Habab and I in front of the Hathor Chapel or Roman kiosk of Naga, present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)The Hathor Chapel or Roman kiosk of Naga with Corinthian column and arched windows is reminiscent of buildings with roman features known from Alexandria, Egypt and Palmyra in Syria. The rectangular windows with cornice and cavetto, winged sun discs decoration as well as relief blocks bearing the image of the goddess Hathor recall typical Kushite and pharaonic Egyptian elements. (Sept. 13, 2019)The Hathor Chapel or Roman kiosk of Naga, present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)The Hathor Chapel or Roman kiosk of Naga. (Sept. 13, 2019)The Hathor Chapel or Roman kiosk of Naga, present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)The Hathor Chapel or Roman kiosk of Naga, present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)The Apedemak Lion Temple of Naga, dating from the 1st century BC, where the exterior pylons depict Queen Amanitore and King Natakamani smiting their enemies. The queen holds a sword and the king holds an axe. (Sept. 13, 2019)A close-up of the exterior pylon of Queen Amanitore wielding a sword on the Apedemak Lion Temple of Naga that dates from the 1st Century BC. (Sept. 13, 2019)The other side of the Apedemak Lion Temple of Naga, shows a row of female divinities, Isis, Mut, Amesemi, Hathor and Satet with clearly African features. (Sept. 13, 2019)A close-up of female divinities on the north side of the Apedemak Lion Temple of Naga, present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)On the narrow side of the Apedemak Lion Temple of Naga pylon, the lion god is represented in unique fashion with a snake=like coiled body, human shoulders and arms with a lion’s head. Apedemak was a lion-headed warrior god worshipped in Nubia. The god was used as a sacred guardian of the deceased hereditary chief, prince or king. Anyone who touched the chief’s grave was said to be cursed by this Apedemak. (Sept. 13, 2019)On the Apedemak Lion Temple of Naga south wall are the royal pair and their son shown in front of five male gods led by the lion-headed Apedemak. Behind him are the figures of the falcon-head god Horus, the ram-headed god Amun, a mummy-shaped god named Akedise and another Amun. The rulers present various gifts to the gods while the five male gods breathe out the breath of life, pictured as tiny horizontal ankh signs, toward the noses of the royal family. (Sept. 13, 2019)A close-up of the male gods of the Apedemak Lion Temple of Naga. (Sept. 13, 2019)A close-up of the three-headed Apedemak with four arms at the Apedemak Lion Temple of Naga, present-day Butana. Apedemak was considered the war god of Kush. The Kushites believed that Apedemak brought victories to their armies and defeated their enemies. (Sept. 13, 2019)Me at the south wall of the Apedemak Lion Temple of Naga, present-day Butana, are the royal pair and their son shown in front of a row of five male gods lead by the lion-headed Apedemak. Behind him are the figures of the falcon-head god Horus, the ram-headed god Amun, a mummy-shaped god named Akedise and another Amun. The rulers present various gifts to the gods while the five male gods breathe out the breath of life, pictured as tiny horizontal ankh signs, toward the noses of the royal family. (Sept. 13, 2019)The entrance to the Amun Temple in Naga, which dates from the 1st century BC, in modern Butana was the southernmost urban settlement of the kingdom of Meroe (350 to 300 BC) making it the gate leading from Africa to the world of the Near East and the Mediterranean. It is also situated in the savannah far from the Nile Valley. The Amun Temple include such notable features as a hypostyle hall with splendid columns and hieroglyphics and a row of statues representing rams. (Sept. 13, 2019)The entrance to the Amun Temple in Naga, which dates from the 1st century BC, in the modern Butana regions was at the southernmost urban settlement of the kingdom of Meroe. (Sept. 13, 2019)The entrance to the Amun Temple in Naga, which dates from the 1st century BC, in present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)The Amun Temple in Naga, which dates from the 1st century BC, in the modern Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)The entrance pylon to the Amun Temple in Naga, which dates from the 1st century BC, in the modern Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)The Amun Temple in Naga, which dates from the 1st century BC, in the modern Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)The Amun Temple in Naga, which dates from the 1st century BC, in the modern Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)Me at the Amun Temple in Naga, which dates from the 1st century BC, in the modern Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)The dry landscape of Butana, known once as the “Island of Meroe,” part of the Kushite Kingdom home to Naga and Musawwarat es-Sufra. (Sept. 13, 2019)Habab and I having our last Jamal-inspired meal at the temple complex of Musawwarat es-Sufra a pilgrimage center known as the Great Enclosure, a temple complex. (Sept. 13, 2019)An entrance to the Great Enclosure, a large temple complex of Musawarat Al-Sufra, dating back to early Meroitic period of the 3rd century BC in Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)Entrance to the Great Enclosure, a large temple complex of Musawarat Al-Sufra, dating back to the early Meroitic period of the 3rd century BC in Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)A close-up of an entrance to the Great Enclosure, a large temple complex of Musawarat Al-Sufra in present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)A close-up of an entrance to the Great Enclosure, a large temple complex of Musawarat Al-Sufra in present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)A temple or a courtyard of the temple complex of Musawwarat es-Sufra constructed in sandstone in present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)An open area of the Great Enclosure, a large temple complex of Musawarat Al-Sufra in present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)The Great Enclosure of Musawwarat Al-Sufra is the main structure of this temple complex site in present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)The Great Enclosure of Musawwarat es-Sufra in present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)Elephant sculpture at the Central Temple of the Great Enclosure of Musawwarat Al-Sufra, dating back to the early Meroitic period of the 3rd century BC in present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)Me at the Great Enclosure of Musawwarat Al-Sufra, the main structure of this temple complex site in present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)Ornate columns of the Great Enclosure of Musawwarat Al-Sufra, the main structure of this temple complex site in present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)Ornate columns of the Great Enclosure of Musawwarat Al-Sufra, the main structure of this temple complex site in present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)Habab, me and Jamal standing in front of the Lion Temple of Musawwarat es-Sufra in present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)The Lion Temple of Musawwarat es-Sufra in present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)Exterior of the Lion Temple of Musawwarat es-Sufra in present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)Exterior of the Lion Temple of Musawwarat es-Sufra in present-day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)Columns inside the Lion Temple of Musawwarat es-Sufra in present day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)Columns and wall reliefs inside the Lion Temple of Musawwarat es-Sufra in present day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)Wall reliefs inside the Lion Temple of Musawwarat es-Sufra in present day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)Wall reliefs inside the Lion Temple of Musawwarat es-Sufra in present day Butana. (Sept. 13, 2019)Our last group selfie, with the keeper of the Lion’s Temple, of Musawwarat es-Sufra, Habab, myself and Jamal. You two incredible people made this trip exceptional. I will never forget your kindness, generosity, hospitality and all the hard work you put into this to make sure that everything went off without a hitch. I am utterly grateful. Good-bye to you and to the Sudan…at least for now. (Sept. 13, 2019)
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