Ireland: Green & Gorgeous – My Travel Notions

Even though I’ve never been to Ireland…shamrocks, the color green and Guinness beer are the images that come to mind for this country. I will thankfully be able to expand, delete and or add much more to these images with actual ones.

After a war against their British rulers, Ireland was split in two. The south became a separate state, now called the Republic of Ireland. But the break-up led to unrest and violence in Northern Ireland, which remained as part of the United Kingdom of Great Britain. The UK includes Northern Ireland, England, Scotland and Wales.

Dublin is the first stop of my 39-day adventure that begins tonight on a direct flight from Dallas to Dublin where I will check out the city before meeting up with my Rick Steves tour group for a trek through Ireland and Northern Ireland. Then I meetup with my dear friend Bonnie in Inverness where we will make our way through Scotland and England.

Time to don the travel gear and roll that…fit in the overhead bin…suitcase to check out these Western European countries.

The Rick Steves tour map of the “Best of Ireland in 14 Days Tour.”

At DFW Airport in Dallas, Texas, with my overhead bin fitting suitcase and hefty backpack. (June 27, 2019)

My sweetheart daughter, Sydney. Took her out to dinner at Knife in Dallas so she could get their bacon sampler. Thanks for hauling your mama to the airport. (June 27, 2019)

Dublin

Dublin is busy, crowded, historic and, most of all, its people enjoy the Irish gift of gab.

That crowded and busy could have something to do with it being the start of the weekend, an utterly gorgeous warm yet overcast day and us tourists, like myself, who descend onto the city. And, that gift of gab started with the taxi driver who picked me up at the very modern airport and drove me into the city to my hotel. By the time I got to my hotel, I learned a little history, enjoyed a laugh, exchanged cultural misconceptions and was even given driving tips in the span of 15 to 20 minutes.

I know many people who can sleep on an airplane, but I don’t care what seat I’m in from First Class to Economy, I just can’t sleep. Luckily this direct flight landed around 2:00 pm and even though my original plan, guesstimating that I would be at my hotel around 3:00 pm was to get out and take a very hearty walk around the city but the lack of sleep on the plane just made that impossible.

My former South Africa tour mate, Nick, who lives in Dublin and works close to my hotel, stopped by to share a beer and an orientation walk around the main thoroughfare of O’Connell Street. We have most of the day Sunday to see more Dublin sites before I meet with my Rick Steves tour group. A lack of sleep just throws everything off pace.

Tomorrow starts early with an all-day tour of ancient Irish history at the Boyne Valley. It includes castles, sacred burial mounts and royal coronation sites from the Iron age and Megalithic temples.

For now, here’s a snippet of Dublin from the north side of O’Connell Street as I do my best to catch up on my sleep.

The O’Connell Monument, a memorial to Daniel O’Connell, the 19th century nationalist leader, stands at the entrance to the street named after him facing O’Connell Bridge in Dublin, Ireland. O’Connell Street, named so in 1924, is a grand thoroughfare created in the 18th century that runs through the center of the capital. (June 28, 2019)

The Ha’Penny Bridge crossing over the River Liffey is a pedestrian cast iron bridge built in Dublin, Ireland, in May 1816. It earned its name from William Walsh, a ferryman who built the Bridge and charged a toll of one ha’penny to travelers. The practice of charging a fee lasted for over a hundred years. More than 30,000 pedestrians cross the bridge daily. (June 28, 2019)

Inside the General Post Office in Dublin, Ireland, where Gay Pride week is being celebrated around Dublin. (June 28, 2019)

The tram line with double decker buses and cars making their way down the north end of O’Connell Street in Dublin, Ireland. (June 28, 2019)

At the north end of O’Connell Street in Dublin, Ireland, facing the Parnell Monument, a 57 ft high obelisk made of granite. (June 28, 2019)

The Parnell Monument at the north end of O’Connell Street in Dublin, Ireland. (June 28, 2019)

The Georgian houses on O’Connell Street in Dublin, Ireland. (June 28, 2019)

A busy crossing corner at O’Connell Street in Dublin, Ireland. (June 28, 2019)

The busy O’Connell Street in Dublin, Ireland, with the General Post Office down the street. (June 28, 2019)

The busy O’Connell Street in Dublin, Ireland. (June 28, 2019)

The Garden of Remembrance in Dublin is dedicated to “all those who gave their lives in the cause of Irish Freedom.” (June 28, 2019)

The Children of Lir sculpture at the Garden of Remembrance in Dublin, Ireland. The sculpture is from an Irish myth or tale that mixes druid wands and spells with a Christian message of faith in an effort to bring freedom to the suffering. (June 28, 2019)

Gay Pride week being celebrated in Dublin, Ireland. (June 28, 2019)

A hat and clothing store on O’Connell Street in Dublin, Ireland, selling the Republic of Ireland tops and a Gay Pride suit. I didn’t know this but the LGBT Pride Flag colors all have a meaning. Red means life, orange means healing, yellow means sunshine, green means nature, blue means harmony, and purple means spirit. (June 28, 2019)

A souvenir shop on O’Connell Street in Dublin displaying and selling ‘all’ things Irish…or at least considered Irish. (June 28, 2019)

Boyne Valley

Ireland’s skies may be consistently gray but at any minute the sun can make an appearance, along with the blue skies, and disappear just as quickly. Or drops will fall from the sky ever so lightly or pour profusely before stopping as quickly as it began. The saying: “If you don’t like the weather, just wait a minute,” holds true for Ireland. Be ready for the weather to change quickly and you’ll enjoy the green glow of Ireland even more.

Saturday was all about experiencing the ancient and spiritual side of Ireland at its various sites in the Boyne Valley, about a 30 minute drive north of Dublin. The day included: Newgrange, a megalithic temple and passage tomb; Bective Abbey, the remains of a Cistercian abbey with connections to the Knights Templar; the Town of Trim and Trim Castle, where Mel Gibson filmed the Braveheart. Then there was the Hill of Tara which included the Mound of the hostages Fort of The Kings, Stone of Destiny and the Fairy Tree.

I don’t profess to know the depths of stories related to these ancient sites so I’ll share just a small amount of information I learned from my knowledgeable guide for the day, Liam Lawlor, operator of Sacred Irish Tours. Liam has traveled to sacred sites around the world and believes in “the inspirational and transformative power of the ancient sacred sites.” Let’s get started exploring Ireland’s ancient side.

Me at the more than 5,000 year-old Newgrange, a passage tomb in Ireland’s Boyne Valley, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. According to carbon dating, Newgrange was built during the Neolithic period between c. 3200 and 3100 BC which makes it older than Stonehenge in England and the Great Pyramids of Giza in Egypt. (Photo of me taken by Liam Lawlor of Sacred Irish Tours.) (June 29, 2019)

Newgrange, in Ireland’s Boyne Valley, is a large circular mound with an inner stone passageway and chambers. Human bones and possible grave goods or votive offerings were found in these chambers. The mound has a retaining wall at the front, made mostly of white quartz cobblestones, and it is ringed by larger stones or kerbstones. According to ancient mythology, the Tuatha Dé Danann ruled Ireland were said to have built Newgrange as a burial place for their chief, Dagda Mór, and his three sons. (June 29, 2019)

The entrance to the Newgrange stone passageway and chambers with its white quartz cobblestone retaining wall ringed by large stones called kerbstones. Newgrange, in Ireland’s Boyne Valley, lay buried and forgotten for thousands of years. (June 29, 2019)

A close-up of the carved Entrance Stone at Newgrange in Ireland’s Boyne Valley, more than 11 feet long and carved more than 5,000 years ago. The ancient carvings consists of a large triple spiral engraved with double loops which fill the left side of the stone. The spirals rotate clockwise on the way to the centre and counterclockwise moving away from the center. (June 29, 2019)

Past the entrance stone at Newgrange in Ireland’s Boyne Valley, inside the narrow passageway aligned with the rising sun during the winter solstice. This is when the sunlight floods the passage and inner chamber for 17 minutes from December 18 to 23 during the dawn of winter solstice. (June 29, 2019)

The exterior retaining wall and kerbstones of Newgrange in Ireland’s Boyne Valley. (June 29, 2019)

Liam Lawlor, tour operator and knowledgeable ancient historian of Sacred Irish Tours, standing by Kerbstone 67 by the exterior carved stone at Newgrange, the Neolithic passageway tomb in Ireland’s Boyne Valley. (June 29, 2019)

A clearer view of the carvings on Kerbstone 67 at Newgrange, the Neolithic passageway tomb in Ireland’s Boyne Valley. (June 29, 2019)

A distance view of Kerbstone 67 and the exterior retaining wall of Newgrange in Ireland’s Boyne Valley. Newgrange, the best known Irish passageway tomb, is surrounded by 97 stones. (June 29, 2019)

Me at the Bective Abbey in Ireland’s Boyne Valley. Founded in 1147 by the Cistercians, a Catholic religious order of monks, the ruins date to the 15th century. The abbey has such a castle-like appearance that it was used as a location site during the shooting of the 1995 historical action-drama movie Braveheart starring American actor Mel Gibson, who portrays William Wallace, a late-13th-century Scottish warrior. Gibson also directed the movie. (Photo of me taken by Liam Lawlor of Sacred Irish Tours.) (June 29, 2019)

The Bective Abbey in Ireland’s Boyne Valley was founded in 1147 by the Cistercians, a Catholic religious order of monks. (June 29, 2019)

The remains of the 15th century cloister at the Bective Abbey in Ireland’s Boyne Valley. Founded in 1147 by the Cistercians, a Catholic religious order of monks, the abbey is a protected structure and recorded on the register of National Monuments of Ireland. (June 29, 2019)

The Bective Abbey in Ireland’s Boyne Valley. The abbey became an important monastic settlement, but was suppressed following the dissolution of the Monasteries under King Henry VIII in 1543. (June 29, 2019)

The Bective Abbey in Ireland’s Boyne Valley. (June 29, 2019)

Me at the 15th century cloister remains of the Bective Abbey in Ireland’s Boyne Valley. (June 29, 2019)

The Bective Abbey in Ireland’s Boyne Valley is where Cistercian monks became warrior monks commonly known as the Knights Templar founded during the Crusades who took monastic oaths to protect the Holy Land and pilgrims. After the Norman Invasion of Ireland the Templars became a part of Norman society in Ireland for nearly 150 years. However, like their counterparts across Europe, the Templars in Ireland were ruthlessly suppressed amidst bizarre allegations between 1308 and 1310. (June 29, 2019)

Trim Castle walls Trim Castle is the largest, best-preserved & most impressive Anglo-Norman castle in Ireland. it was built by Hugh de Lacy when he was granted the Liberty of Meath by King Henry II in 1172. (June 29, 2019)

The town of Trim, situated on the River Boyne with its population of under 10,000, is the home of Trim Castle, the largest Anglo-Norman castle in Ireland. Before visiting the castle, our day tour group of the Boyne Valley, stopped in Trim to have lunch. (June 29, 2019)

The town of Trim, Ireland. (June 29, 2019)

The houses along Castle Street in the town of Trim, Ireland. (June 29, 2019)

A close-up of the houses along Castle Street in the town of Trim, Ireland. (June 29, 2019)

This church bell tower remains of St. Mary’s Abbey, a former Augustinian Abbey dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, in Trim, Ireland. The remains of the abbey church bell tower was the sanctuary for “Our Lady of Trim,” a wooden statue reported to work miracles in the town of Trim which made Trim a major pilgrimage site from at least 1397. During the Reformation the statue was burned and Henry VIII dissolved the abbey. (June 29, 2019)

Trim Castle, considered Ireland’s largest Anglo-Norman castle, was built in the late 12th century following the Norman invasion of Ireland. Trim and the surrounding lands were granted to Hugh de Lacy, Lord of Meath, a Norman baron. It took more than 30 years for de Lacy and his son Walter to build the castle. Trim Castle was the location for King John’s Castle in the 1995 movie Braveheart, a historical drama about William Wallace. (June 29, 2019)

The gatehouse entrance to Trim Castle was built around 1180 in the town of Trim, Ireland. (June 29, 2019)

The Keep, at the center of Trim Castle housed the Lord’s private apartments and was protected by a ditch, curtain wall and moat. (June 29, 2019)

The Keep, inside the center of Trim Castle in the town of Trim, Ireland, was protected by a ditch a curtain wall and a moat. Construction of the massive three storied Keep, the central stronghold of the castle, was begun around 1176 on the site of an earlier wooden fortress. (June 29, 2019)

The remains of the Great Hall (to the left) and the underground entryway (to the right) used for storage at Trim Castle in the town of Trim, Ireland. (June 29, 2019)

The cylindrical tower of the Barbican Gate at Trim Castle in the town of Trim, Ireland, was part of the curtain wall that secured the castle. (June 29, 2019)

The entrance to the Barbican gate at Trim Castle in the town of Trim, Ireland, provided an elaborate system of lifting bridges, gates and overhead traps. (June 29, 2019)

This beautiful Irish field is said to be the procession route to the Hill of Tara in the Boyne Valley near Skryne in County Meath, Ireland, for ancient ceremonials and burials along with the seat of the ancient high kings of Ireland and is also mentioned in Irish mythology. The ground was overgrown, wet, at times a little slippery and at most a sprawling mass of splendid hilly greenery. (June 29, 2019)

The Mound of Hostages on the Hill of Tara in the Boyne Valley near Skryne in County Meath, Ireland, is a mound covering a passage tomb built some 5,000 years ago and was used as a place to bury human remains for more than 1,500 years. (June 29, 2019)

The entrance of the Mound of Hostages on the Hill of Tara in the Boyne Valley near Skryne in County Meath. (June 29, 2019)

The Lia Fáil meaning Stone of Destiny is also called the Speaking Stone and the Coronation Stone on the Hill of Tara in the Boyne Valley Skryne in County Meath, Ireland. As the Stone of Destiny, it was thought to have magical powers; as the Coronation Stone, it is where legend says all of the kinds of Ireland were crowned and as the Speaking Stone, it is said to roar in joy when the rightful High King of Ireland touches it. In the distance to the right is the Mound of Hostages. (June 29, 2019)

According to Celtic folklore, this lone Hawthorne tree in the middle of a field is called a Fairy Tree where people tie ribbons to ask for blessings from the local saints, deities and or wee folk. (June 29, 2019)

A close-up to the very mangled and dying Fairy Tree at the Hill of Tara in Boyne Valley near Skryne in County Meath, Ireland. In Celtic mythology Hawthorne trees, like this one, are the most sacred trees that symbolize love and protection. It is known as the Fairy Tree, as fairies live under the Hawthorn as its guardians, and as so were treated with great respect and care. (June 29, 2019)

Ending with some more tree love. Me at the Bective Abbey in Ireland’s Boyne Valley standing by a 300-year-old beech tree still going strong. Age is but a number. And, this tree reminded me of Joyce Kilmer’s poem called, strangely enough, Tree. Here’s the short version of it:
“I think that I shall never see
A poem lovely as a tree.
A tree whose hungry mouth is prest
Against the earth’s sweet flowing breast;
A tree that looks at God all day,
And lifts her leafy arms to pray.”
(Photo of me taken by Liam Lawlor operator of Sacred Irish Tours) (June 29, 2019)

Dublin

My Dublin, Ireland, fun comes to end as I will be leaving for other parts of Ireland come Tuesday morning with my Rick Steves “The Best of Ireland in 14 Days tour.”

But in the meantime, here’s my version of the ‘Best of Dublin’ including the Dublin Castle, Book of Kells, Christ Church Cathedral, Irish Famine Memorial, Epic: The Irish Emigration Museum and just something I’m calling Around Dublin with the caveat that there’s so much more to see that I just could not incorporate into this trip.

Next stop is the harbor town of Kinsale.

Dublin Castle in Dublin, Ireland, was the seat of English and later British rule in Ireland from 1204 until 1922. (July 1, 2019)

The Dubhlinn Gardens, which were completed in 1680, are located adjacent to the Dublin Castle in Dublin, Ireland. (June 30, 2019)

Dublin Castle in Dublin, Ireland, once included towers at two corners, however the Birmingham Tower is one of the few remaining parts of the original castle with its blue modern upper part. (June 30, 2019)

The State Corridor inside Dublin Castle in Dublin, Ireland, with its procession of vaults and arches was designed in 1758. The State Corridor, which guests for national events came through, is part of the State Apartments which served as the residence for the Viceroy who represented the British monarch in Ireland. (June 30, 2019)

The State Drawing Room inside the Dublin Castle in Dublin, Ireland, was designed in 1838 and used mainly by successive Vicereines (the wives of the Viceroys) as a formal sitting room and for holding audiences with Irish courtiers. During the royal visits of 1907 and 1911 Queen Alexandra and Queen Mary also received guests in this room. The room is still used by the President of Ireland for the reception of visiting dignitaries. (June 30, 2019)

The Throne room inside the Dublin Castle in Dublin, Ireland was created in 1788 as an audience chamber in which the Viceroy received guests on behalf of the British monarch. It was also where young debutantes were presented at court to mark their formal entry into aristocratic society. The throne was made for the visit to Ireland of King George IV, in 1821. It was later used by Queen Victoria and King Edward VII during their visits to the Castle. The last monarch to use it before Irish independence was King George V, in 1911. (June 30, 2019)

St. Patrick’s Hall at the Dublin Castle in Dublin, Ireland, is considered the grandest room of the state apartments. Formerly the ballroom of the Lord Lieutenant’s administration, today the room is used for presidential inaugurations. If a President of Ireland dies in office, such as Erskine H. Childers in 1974, he lies in state here. It is one of the oldest rooms in the castle, dating from the 1740s, though its decoration largely dates from around 1790. (June 30, 2019)

This large ceiling painting in St. Patrick’s Hall at the Dublin Castle in Dublin, Ireland, was done by Italian artist Vincenzo Valdre (c. 1742–1814) in 1788 and continues to awe. (June 30, 2019)

Trinity College campus in Dublin officially called the College of the Holy and Undivided Trinity of Queen Elizabeth was founded by Queen Elizabeth I in 1592. (July 1, 2019)

Only a few of the original Book of Kells pages are on display at the Trinity College Library in Dublin. But the Book of Kells Exhibition, which is where this portrait of St. John is displayed, shows enlarged copies of actual pages. Associated with St. Columbus’ monastery on the island of Iona, off the western coast of Scotland, the Book dates from the early 9th century and due to Viking attacks on Iona, eventually came to Trinity College in 1661. (July 1, 2019)

Enlarged copies of the Book of Kells can be found in an exhibit at the Trinity College Library in Dublin. The Book of Kells took 3 to 4 monks about 30 years to complete the illustrated versions of the Bible while writing on a type of parchment made from the skins of about 185 calves using goose quill pens and gall ink containing tannic acid. Only four pages from two original books can be seen under glass and photos are now allowed. (July 1, 2019)

The Long Room at Trinity College in Dublin, just steps above the Book of Kells Exhibition, is the main chamber of the Old Library and was built between 1712 and 1732. The Long Room is filled with more than 200,000 of the Library’s oldest books. The distinctive barrel-vaulted ceiling was added in 1860 to allow space for more works. (July 1, 2019)

Lining the central walkway of the Long Room at Trinity College in Dublin are marble busts of famous philosophers and writers, as well as certain men connected to the college. (July 1, 2019)

The tall book shelves filled with books in the Long Room at Trinity College in Dublin, Ireland. (July 1, 2019)

Christ Church Cathedral in Dublin, Ireland, began as a small church founded by Duncan, the first bishop of Dublin, with funds from the Norse king of Dublin Sitriuc. After the capture of the city by the Anglo-Normans in 1170, their leader Strongbow planned a great cathedral with the Archbishop of Dublin Laurence O’Toole. Their vision was completed in the 1230s. Following the Reformation, Christ Church became a Protestant cathedral and ‘Romish’ relics were burned in a huge bonfire. The Cathedral was extensively restored in the 1870s. (June 30, 2019)

This sculpture on the exterior of Christ Church Cathedral in Dublin, Ireland, depicts a Homeless Jesus sculpture. The work by Canadian sculptor Tim Schmalz is a 7ft cast bronze park bench, depicting Christ hidden beneath blankets his identity betrayed only by the holes in his feet. (June 30, 2019)

Inside the Christ Church Cathedral in Dublin, Ireland, looking down into the Choir where members were rehearsing and their voices were divine. (June 30, 2019)

The Chapel of Santa Maria Alba (The Blessed Virgin Mary) or Lady Chapel inside the Christ Church Cathedral in Dublin, Ireland. (June 30, 2019)

Inside a corner of the Christ Church Cathedral crypt in Dublin was this small exhibit of costumes from the television series, “The Tudors,” which was filmed at the Cathedral. Over a period of four years, ‘The Tudors’ was filmed in locations around Ireland, including the Cathedral, Dublin Castle and more. The series was based on the reign of King Henry VIII starring Jonathan Rhys Meyers as the King. The Cathedral provided a perfect backdrop for weddings, coronations and baptisms. Meanwhile, the crypt was used for burials, taverns and as the interior of the Tower of London. (June 30, 2019)

The Ha’Penny Bridge in Dublin is the pedestrian bridge that straddles the River Liffey and was built in 1816. It was originally named the Wellington Bridge after the Duke of Wellington. But now it is known officially as the Liffey Bridge but affectionately as the Ha’Penny Bridge because of William Walsh. A ferryman, Walsh built the bridge and charged a toll of one ha’penny to travelers. (July 1, 2019)

A close-up while walking across the Ha’Penny Bridge which crosses over the River Liffey in Dublin, Ireland. (July 1, 2019)

These Famine Statues can be found along the Custom House Quay in Dublin, Ireland. Unveiled in 1997, this memorial commemorates the victims of the Great Famine of the mid-19th century in which one million died and one million more emigrated. (July 1, 2019)

This Famine Statue can be found along the Custom House Quay in Dublin, Ireland. The statues were designed and crafted by Rowan Gillespie, a renowned Dublin sculpture. (July 1, 2019)

The Famine Statues can be found along the Custom House Quay in Dublin in memory of the victims of the Great Famine. The blow of one million dying and one million more emigrating had a profound effect on Irish society and is blamed on the failure of the potato crop—the staple diet of many poor Irish during the 1840s. (July 1, 2019)

Inside Epic: The Irish Emigration Museum in Dublin tells the story of the Irish identity through migration and their descendants number over 70 million people around the globe. (July 1, 2019)

Inside Epic: The Irish Emigration Museum in Dublin, Ireland, tells the story of the Irish identity through migration. (July 1, 2019)

Inside Epic: The Irish Emigration Museum in Dublin, Ireland, tells the story of the Irish identity through migration. The U.S. presidency is an extraordinary example of Irish political success. At least 22 presidency, including Barack Obama, can lay claim to Irish roots. (July 1, 2019)

Inside Epic: The Irish Emigration Museum in Dublin, Ireland, tells the story of the Irish identity through migration showing Irish descendants excelling throughout the world. This features rock and pop artists of Irish descent. (July 1, 2019)

Exiting the gift shop of Epic: The Irish Emigration Museum in Dublin, Ireland, means exiting into an open mall-like area, the CHQ Building, that contains this poster and photo of pop singer Rihana asking what’s her Irish surname. What are the choices? Fenty, Forde or Coppin. (July 1, 2019)

The CHQ Building in Dublin, Ireland, where EPIC: The Irish Emigration Museum is located. (July 1, 2019)

Around Dublin, Ireland…my first full day with my Rick Steves tour group that officially started Sunday night with a get together and dinner and Monday morning with a walking tour…that’s our Dublin guide Peter pointing and our Rick Steves guide, Pascal, to the extreme left of the photo. And, the Blooms Hotel, it’s not our group hotel but it does have a rather eye-catching and colorful exterior. (July 1, 2019)

Around Dublin, Ireland…In the Temple Bar area I saw a number of bars named ‘The Temple Bar.’ Could this be the official Temple Bar, well your guess is as good as mine. (June 30, 2019)

The colorful exterior of the Oliver St. John Gogarty Bar, named after a famous Irish poet, playwright and surgeon in the Temple Bar area. Today, the Temple Bar is filled with arts, culture, architecture and urban design along some rather old cobble stoned streets. (June 30, 2019)

Around Dublin, in the Temple Bar area enjoying the stroll and the continued decorations in celebration of Pride Week. (June 30, 2019)

Around Dublin, this is the Molly Malone statue created by Jeanne Rynhart in tribute to the famous song about the fictional fishmonger, Molly Malone who plied her trade on the streets of Dublin. Miss Molly made her original debut on Grafton Street during the Dublin Millennium celebrations in 1988 but now resides on Suffolk Street in front of the Tourist Information Office. Notice the area of her breasts are lighter than the rest of her because people like to touch her boobs. Not sure how or why that became a thing but I’m just showing some respect for another hard working woman. (June 30, 2019)

Around Dublin, for a quick second, I thought this might be a Ben & Jerry ice cream shop. What can I say, the colors just brought Ben & Jerry’s to mind, but as you can see, it is far from an ice cream shop. (July 1, 2019)

Around Dublin, Ireland…bikes, bikes, bikes. (June 30, 2019)

Around Dublin, Ireland…this building which houses the Copper Alley Bistro on Lord Edwards Street just made me pass every time I passed it. (June 30, 2019)

Around Dublin, Ireland…loved the sky, loved the buildings and loved the colored lights inside the building in celebration of Pride Week. (June 30, 2019)

Nick and I after touring Dublin Castle on Sunday. Thank you Nick, whom I met last year during my Intrepid Travel tour of South Africa, for showing me around his hometown of Dublin. Til next time my friend! (June 30, 2019)

Cashel & Kilmainham

The church bells ring loudly in the town of Kinsale, Ireland, our Rick Steves tour group’s home base for the next two nights. And, even though the buildings in the town are spruced up with a variety of colors, it feels like a town that carries its weight in history. But, I’ll learn more on Wednesday, when we do a walking tour of the town, and report back.

For now, this post is about an historic site that legend says was created from the devil’s spit and a prison where teachers, poets and playwrights fighting for independence are jailed and put before a firing squad. It’s two different, yet story-filled, places to begin shaping my knowledge of Ireland…the Rock of Cashel and Kilmainham Goal.

Me on the Rock of Cashel in County Tipperary, Ireland. The Rock was considered the ancient seat of the Kings of Munster, who ruled during the Irish Iron Age until the High Middle Ages, and was the capital of the southern province. According to legend, the Rock was formed when Satan bit a chunk from the Devil’s Bit Mountain 25 miles to the north and spat it out as he flew over Cashel. The tall round tower is the oldest and tallest of the buildings on the Rock of Cashel. (July 2, 2019)

The imposing medieval hilltop complex of the Rock of Cashel in County Tipperary, Ireland, overlooks the town of Cashel. (July 2, 2019)

The interior remains of the Gothic chapel on the Rock of Cashel in County Tipperary, Ireland. (July 2, 2019)

The interior remains of the Hall of the Vicars Choral on the Rock of Cashel in County Tipperary, Ireland. (July 2, 2019)

A headstone on the exterior grounds of the Gothic chapel on the Rock of Cashel in County Tipperary, Ireland. (July 2, 2019)

The Romanesque Cormac’s Chapel on the Rock of Cashel in County Tipperary, Ireland, was begun in 1127 and consecrated in 1134. (July 2, 2019)

The town of Cashel, Ireland, founded sometime before 1218, is known for the imposing Rock of Cashel, a medieval complex on a hilltop overlooking the town. (July 2, 2019)

The Corke Memorial in the town of Cashel, Ireland, was erected in 1895 as a tribute to Thomas Croke (1824-1902) who was Archbishop of Cashel. (July 2, 2019)

A close-up of the Corke Memorial in the town of Cashel, Ireland. (July 2, 2019)

The entrance to Kilmainham Gaol, the former jail in Kilmainham where famous political and military leaders were locked up and a number of them were executed. The prison opened its doors in 1796 and closed them in 1924. One of the last prisoners was Éamon de Valera who later became president of Ireland. Mainly the prison is known for executing the non-military leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising to end British rule in Ireland. (July 2, 2019)

Walking through the oldest part of the Kilmainham Gaol in Kilmainham just outside of Dublin. It was built in response to the poor conditions of prisons in the 18th century, but soon faced the same problems as other jails in part to overcrowding that led to disease, poor health and hygiene. (July 2, 2019)

A locked cell door of the oldest part of Kilmainham Gaol in Kilmainham, Ireland, just outside of Dublin. (July 2, 2019)

The oldest part of Kilmainham Gaol in Kilmainham, Ireland, just outside of Dublin. (July 2, 2019)

In 1861 this portion of the Kilmainham Gaol in Kilmainham, Ireland, opened and aesthetically reflected the different ideas of the Victorian age. In these cells, it was possible to see all 96 cells from a central viewing area. The use of light was deliberate and philosophical. It was thought that the huge skylight would spiritually inspire the inmates, while the out-of-reach cell windows would encourage them to turn heavenward. Under the ground of this new wing were four cellar-level isolation cells intended for dark and solitary confinement. (July 2, 2019)

This jail cell at Kilmainham Gaol was where Grace Gifford Plunkett, an Irish artist and cartoonist was locked up for three months. Plunkett was active in the Republican movement for independence from Britain and married her fiancé Joseph Plunkett in Kilmainham Gaol only a few hours before he was executed for his part in the 1916 Easter Rising. She was jailed in February 1923 during the Irish Civil War for her cartoons. (July 2, 2019)

During the Civil War, Grace Plunkett was arrested in February 1923 and jailed at Kilmainham Gaol for three months where she painted on the walls of her cell, including this one that I took a photo of through the door peephole of the Blessed Virgin and the Christ Child. (July 2, 2019)

An opposite end view of the 1861 Victorian age version of a jail built at Kilmainham Gaol in Kilmainham, Ireland. (July 2, 2019)

Following their surrender, the 1916 Easter Rising leaders quickly court-martialed and brought to Kilmainham Gaol where they were executed in the jail’s stone breakers yard, beginning on May 3. (July 2, 2019)

The plaque memorializing and honoring the 1916 Easter Rising leaders executed in the stone breakers yard of Kilmainham Gaol. (July 2, 2019)

The last to be executed was James Connolly, this is his cross, for the 1916 Easter Uprising at the stone breakers yard inside Kilmainham Gaol on May 12. Although the Rising was very unpopular with the people of Dublin and throughout Ireland at the time, their opinions changed when the British executed these leaders between May 3rd and 12th, 1916, after a quick court martial. The James Connolly execution seemed to enrage the people the most because Connolly was severely wounded to the point where he was unable to stand and had to be propped up in a chair in order to be executed by a British foreign squad. (July 2, 2019)

This is a close-up of one of two black crosses memorializing the deaths by execution of 13 of the 14 Easter Uprising leaders at Kilmainham Gaol. On the opposite end of the stone breakers yard is the other cross for the lasting Easter Uprising leader to be executed, James Connolly. (July 2, 2019)

Inside the Kilmainham Goal Museum is a passageway with nooks featuring letters, photos and other personal items from the leaders of the 1916 Easter Uprising. Some of the letters are personal ones written to loved ones. (July 2, 2019)

In the chapel of the Kilmainham Gaol was a short introductory about the jail and some of its occupants including this couple, Joseph Plunkett and Grace Gifford Plunkett who married hours before he was executed. Joseph was sentenced to death but married Grace on the night of May 3 in this same chapel just a few hours before he was executed. (July 2, 2019)

This sculpture, entitled Proclamation, by Rowan Gillespie is outdoors facing, but across the street from, Kilmainham Gaol in Kilmainham, Ireland. It represents and honors the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising, and the authors of the Irish proclamation of Independence. Rowan Gillespie is known for his startling sculptures including the equally disturbing Famine Memorial in Dublin. These statues have no names, faces or limbs, but at the base each have an inscription that reads: “Verdict: Guilty. Death by Being Shot.” (July 2, 2019)

Kinsale

Kinsale, Ireland, is a seaport town doing business as an adorable town. Yes, there’s history, good food, cute shops and a busy small town Wednesday market…then add sunshine and today was the makings of an absolutely lovely day.

Kinsale is like a grand old dame that’s reinvented itself by using colorful coats of paint for modernizing and sprucing while keeping tight to its historical roots.

This was one of those travel days and Kinsale is one of those travel towns where strolling and awing go hand in hand. Walking with a ‘no where in a hurry’ pace and awing at the cuteness while being in the presence of an historical seaporting grand dame, just hit me in the feels…the warm sunny ones while still being comfortably cool.

With four shops, five churches, 25 pubs and 55 places to eat, the population of around 9,000 and us invading travelers get to bask in Kinsale’s charm. Come walk with me through the charms of Kinsale and the history of the fortress that was built to keep it safe.

The name Kinsale, in County Cork, Ireland, is derived from the Irish, Ceann tSáile, (headland of the sea). The Vikings are said to have founded a settlement here but nothing survives from this period. The present town grew up on the site of an Anglo-Norman settlement founded in the 12th century. The town was granted its first Charter in 1334 and was enclosed by walls in 1381. in 1666, it was described as “one of the most significant harbour in Europe,” trading in wine and salt. (July 3, 2019)

The earliest records show a small walled area was founded as the historic port and fishing town of Kinsale in County Cork, Ireland, with a significant military fort. (July 3, 2019)

The colorful town of Kinsale in County Cork, Ireland. (July 3, 2019)

The narrow winding streets of the present colorful town of Kinsale in County Cork, Ireland, are inherited from medieval times and the town is lucky to have retained a wealth of beautiful buildings and shopfronts, particularly from the 18th and 19th centuries. (July 3, 2019)

Got a chance to hang out at the Wednesday farmers market in Kinsale, County Cork, Ireland, with a number of stalls selling everything from fruits, vegetables, flower and salads to breads, fried real potato chips to hot food. (July 3, 2019)

The Wednesday farmers market in Kinsale, County Cork, Ireland. (July 3, 2019)

Today turned out to be the most consistent and dare I say, perfect weather day, in Ireland. Just another look at Kinsale, County Clerk, on a rather gorgeous day in Ireland. (July 3, 2019)

The medieval, currently urban, tower house of Desmond Castle in the town of Kinsale in County Cork, Ireland, was built around the 1500s by the Earl of Desmond and later was even used as a prison. By the early decades of the 20th Century the castle had fallen into decay. It was declared a National Monument in 1938. Today, it is a Wine Museum that is closed for refurbishment. (July 3, 2019)

Desmond Castle, in the town of Kinsale, County Cork, Ireland, was built in the 1500s and was declared an Irish National Monument in 1938. (July 3, 2019)

The Church of St. Multose in Kinsale, County Clerk, Ireland, was originally built in 1190 and has undergone various improvements and additions throughout its more than 800 year history. The most dominant feature, the impressive belltower, is one of the few remaining features from the original Norman church. (July 3, 2019)

The interior of the Church of St. Multose in Kinsale, County Clerk, Ireland, was originally built in 1190. (July 3, 2019)

The stained glass and altar at the Church of St. Multose in Kinsale, County Clerk, Ireland. (July 3, 2019)

More of the beautiful stained glass inside the Church of St. Multose in Kinsale, County Clerk, Ireland. (July 3, 2019)

On the grounds of St. Multose Church in Kinsale, County Clerk, Ireland, contains an interesting collection of headstones dating to the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. (July 3, 2019)

Our tour group with Barry, our day guide, at the St. Multose Church burial grounds in Kinsale where three people, who died when the Lusitania sunk in 1915 off the waters of Kinsale, were buried. Bound for Liverpool from New York, the Lusitania was struck by a torpedo from a German U-boat, then an internal explosion occurred on board and the ship began to sank rather rapidly. Of the 1,962 passengers and crew aboard Lusitania 1,198 lost their lives. For about 100 years, the woman buried to the left of Barry was unknown until information provided meant she could be identified as Margaret MacKenzie Shineman. A newlywed, both Margaret and her husband perished when the ship sank. The grave to the right of Barry contains the remains of two men, George Cradock and Richard Chamberlain both worked on the Lusitania. (July 3, 2019)

The entrance to Charles Fort, a star-shaped military fortress constructed between 1677 and 1682, to protect the town and harbour of Kinsale in County Cork, Ireland. The fort is located on the water’s edge, at the southern end of the village of Summer Cove, on Kinsale’ harbour. (July 3, 2019)

Our Rick Steves tour group, taking a tour Charles Fort with local fort guide William who explained the defensive significance of the bastion or five star-shaped military fortress designed to protect Kinsale’s harbor in County Cork, Ireland. This designed basically helped to eliminate any blind spots. First completed in 1682, Charles Fort was sometimes historically referred to as the “new fort” to contrast with James’ Fort the “old fort” built on the other side of Kinsale harbour before 1607. (July 3, 2019)

Charles Fort located on the water’s edge at the southern end of the village of Summer Cove, on Kinsale harbour, County Cork, Ireland. (July 3, 2019)

Built in 1680 during the reign of King Charles II, Charles Fort at the southern end of the village of Summer Cove, on Kinsale’ harbour in County Cork, Ireland, remained a British army base until Irish Independence in 1921. This portion of the fort were the infantry barracks where up to 11 men could sleep in one room with straw beds on the floor. Although they were paid very little, these men were required to pay for extra food, clothing, etc. (July 3, 2019)

The barracks to the right of the enlisted men at Charles Fort in the village of Summer Cove on Kinsale’s harbour in County Cork, Ireland. Although these were wealthy, prominent men, their quarters, living conditions and food were definitely much better than the infantrymen. (July 3, 2019)

First completed in 1682, Charles Fort in Summer Cove, was sometimes historically referred to as the “new fort” – to contrast with James’ Fort (the “old fort”) which had been built on the other side of Kinsale harbour before 1607. This shows the remains of the bastion, the first line of defense, and the cavalier, a raised secondary structure based entirely inside the primary structure. (July 3, 2019)

Walking from the village of Summer Cove back into Kinsale along the Scilly Walking Trail after our tour of Charles Fort. And, what a beautiful day to do the 45 minute signposted walk along the sea that runs from the village of Summer Cove and Charles Fort to Kinsale harbour in County Cork, Ireland. (July 3, 2019)

The Scilly Walk is a signposted pedestrian path along the sea that runs from the village of Summer Cove and Charles Fort to Kinsale harbour in County Cork, Ireland. (July 3, 2019)

The Kinsale harbour in County Cork, Ireland, had quite the historic port. And, its historical fishing town past has been replaced by more recreational means of transportation. (July 3, 2019)

Dingle

“Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the moments that take our breath away.”

For three nights and two full days this breath taking place of Dingle Bay, in western Ireland’s County Kerry and within walking distance of the harbour town of Dingle, was our home base.

Between the patchwork shades of green, the turquoise waters, the endless all consuming views, the history of a deserted island, the 1,300 year old stone building still standing, and the pitch perfect weather, today was a gloriously green vibrant views kind of day. Our Rick Steves “Best of Ireland in 14 Days” tour group took an incredible bus tour along Slea Head Drive in the Dingle Peninsula from and back to the town of Dingle in County Kerry, Ireland. Let the great Irish greenery begin!

Me enveloped by the beautiful scenery of the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, Ireland. (July 5, 2019)

The grand views along our Slea Head Drive of the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, Ireland. (July 5, 2019)

The grand views along our Slea Head Drive of the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, Ireland, include the stone remnants of homes left by families during the Great Famine or Great Hunger, between 1845 and 1849 of mass starvation, disease, and emigration due to the potato blight. (July 5, 2019)

Hedgerows of this bell-shaped violet and red flower called Fuchsia seemed to dominate the flora along our Slea Head Drive of the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, Ireland and can be seen from July to October with their rich hues. (July 5, 2019)

The patchwork shades of green along our Slea Head Drive of the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, Ireland. (July 5, 2019)

A beehive and residential remains on a hillside during our Slea Head Drive of the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, Ireland. A beehive hut, used for agriculture and store, is a dry-stone hut with a corbelled thatched roof….in this case grass…left by families during the Great Famine or Great Hunger, between 1845 and 1849. (July 5, 2019)

Views along our Slea Head Drive of the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, Ireland. (July 5, 2019)

Views along our Slea Head Drive on the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, Ireland. (July 5, 2019)

The Blasket Island as seen from the Blasket Center on the tip of the Dingle Peninsula during our Slea Head Drive in County Kerry, Ireland. The center honors the unique community of Irish-speakers who lived on the remote island until their evacuation in 1953. The center tells the story of island life, subsistence fishing and farming, traditional life including modes of work and transport, home life, housing and entertainment. At its peak, there were about 175 residents but the population declined to 22 by 1953. However, evidence shows that the island was inhabited in the Iron Age and in early Christianity. The government evacuated the remaining 22 residents to the mainland because of increasingly extreme weather that left the island cut off from emergency services. (July 5, 2019)

A view of the beautiful Fuchsia flowers hedges and landscape on the walk to the 1,300 year-old chapel of Gallarus Oratory, along our Slea Head Drive of the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, Ireland. (July 5, 2019)

The Gallarus Oratory, built some 1,300 years ago, is considered a perfect example of dry rubble masonry seen during our Slea Head Drive of the Dingle Peninsula. Gritstone from the area was used for the building materials and said to be built by early Christians. (July 5, 2019)

A close-up of the Gallarus Oratory in County Kerry, Ireland. (July 5, 2010)

Inside the Gallarus Oratory showing the only window, a tiny rounded window opposite the entrance door, which we got to see during our Slea Head Drive of the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, Ireland. (July 5, 2019)

More patchwork stunning shades of green along our Slea Head Drive of the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, Ireland. (July 5, 2019)

Dingle Bay in western Ireland’s County Kerry and within walking distance of the harbour town of Dingle. (July 5, 2019)

The colorful establishments along the Main Street in the town of Dingle in County Kerry, Ireland. (July 5, 2019)

The colorful Main Street in the town of Dingle in County Kerry, Ireland. (July 5, 2019)

The pubs along the Main Street in the town of Dingle in County Kerry, Ireland. (July 5, 2019)

An artistic rendering of the shamrock on the side of the Dingle Pub in the town of Dingle, County Kerry in Ireland. The shamrock is a young sprig used as a symbol for Ireland. Saint Patrick, Ireland’s patron saint, is said to have used it as a metaphor for the Christian Holy Trinity. (July 5, 2019)

After dinner, our group attended an Irish music folk concert at the St. James Church on Main Street, next to the Dingle Bar, in the town of Dingle, County Kerry, Ireland. (July 5, 2019)

Performers inside the St. James Church on Main Street during an Irish music fold concert in the town of Dingle, County Kerry, Ireland. (July 5, 2019)

Adding a few interesting elements from my last day in Dingle including a former convent loving filled with the spirit of the nuns who cared for the community and whose home, chapel and gardens are now a place of art and spiritual rejuvenation.

A harbour of the town of Dingle, County Kerry, Ireland. (July 6, 2019)

And, this is Fungie, at least a bronze statue version of the popular dolphin at the town of Dingle harbour in County Kerry, Ireland. The real Fungie lives in the ocean but is known to come into close contact with humans on a regular basis. There’s a whole cottage industry, tours and souvenirs, about Fungie the bottlenosed dolphin. (July 6, 2019)

A last look at the town of Dingle in County Kerry, Ireland. Down the road is Main Street but it turns into Goat Street the further you come up the road, or at this point of the road. (July 6, 2019)

This stately, 1886 built neo-gothic building is the former convent and school of nuns called the Presentation Sisters’ in the town of Dingle, County Kerry, Ireland, and is 1996 is now the Díseart Center of Irish Spirituality and Culture. It features some wonderful stained glass by Irish stained-glass artist and book illustrator, Harry Clark; a Last Supper Fresco, murals and a peaceful garden. The Presentation Sisters were established in Ireland in the last quarter of the 18th century and who first came to Dingle in 1829. The Sisters are credited for educating and helping all especially the poor during very difficult times. (July 6, 2019)

The Last Supper fresco at the Díseart Center of Irish Spirituality and Culture of Irish Culture in the town of Dingle painted in the Sisters former dining room is the moment when Jesus consecrates the bread and breaks it for distribution to the 11 apostles. Judas has left in a hurry, and his chair has fallen on the floor. The artist of this Last Supper is Eleanor E. Yates, a Denver, Colorado, native who comes to Dingle regularly. Yates completed the fresco in 2011 using traditional Italian techniques rarely seen since the Renaissance while giving the fresco a Dingle feel by using local faces and places. (July 6, 2019)

A close-up of the Last Supper fresco at the Díseart Center of Irish Spirituality and Culture of Irish Culture in the town of Dingle. (July 6, 2019)

A close-up of a portion of the Last Supper fresco showing the raven with two coins in his beak, a reminder of Judas, not featured in the fresco at the Díseart Center of Irish Spirituality and Culture of Irish Culture in the town of Dingle, County Kerry, Ireland. (July 6, 2019)

Chapel of the Sacred Heart or Nun’s Chapel of the former Presentation Sisters now the Díseart Center of Irish Spirituality and Culture in Dingle. The nave or side windows are the Harry Clarke stained glass windows. Clark, an accomplished stained-glass artist and book illustrator who was born in Ireland, completed the installation of the windows in 1924 while the chapel was under renovation. (July 6, 2019)

The Chapel of the Sacred Heart of the Díseart Center of Irish Spirituality and Culture Dingle. Harry Clark, an Ireland born stained glass artist designed and installed the nave windows in 1924 while the chapel was under renovation. (July 6, 2019)

“The Agony in the Garden,” is one of the six double lancet windows by Irish stained glass artist Harry Clarke at the Chapel of the Sacred Heart, depicting the life of Christ at the Díseart Center of Irish Spirituality and Culture of Irish Culture in Dingle. (July 6, 2019)

“Jesus appears to Mary Magdalene” stain glass by Irish stained glass artist Harry Clarke at the Díseart Center of Irish Spirituality and Culture of Irish Culture in the town of Dingle, County Kerry, Ireland. (July 6, 2019)

The entryway mural and gorgeous tiled floor at the Díseart Center of Irish Spirituality and Culture of Irish Culture in the town of Dingle. Notice the floor was also a part of the stunning mural. (July 6, 2019)

Me being a part of the entryway mural at the Díseart Center of Irish Spirituality and Culture of Irish Culture in the town of Dingle, County Kerry, Ireland, with its quilt patterned floor of the building and of the mural. (July 6, 2019)

Me standing on the gorgeous entryway tilel at the Díseart Center of Irish Spirituality and Culture of Irish Culture in the town of Dingle, County Kerry, Ireland. (July 6, 2019)

The cemetery of the nuns at the convent and school of the Presentation Sisters now the Díseart Center of Irish Spirituality and Culture of Irish Culture in the town of Dingle, County Kerry, Ireland. The small cemetery is located on the grounds of the former convent with gardens close-by. (July 6, 2019)

This portion of the Convent Garden at the Díseart Center of Irish Spirituality and Culture in the town of Dingle, County Kerry, Ireland, is called the “Maze to Peace” garden. “The heart of this garden is a Maze or labyrinth which leads from trouble, worry and confusion to peace of soul.” I spent a little time sitting in this garden at one of the benches meditating and feeling abundantly grateful.(July 6, 2019)

Adare, Burren & Galway

After three nights and two full days in Dingle, Ireland, we are now in Galway, Ireland, for the next two nights. Saturday was a free day so except for a Dingle town walking tour, I pretty much took it easy. Didn’t even get a post done.

But, I’m back on the job and ready to provide an update.

Today was a longer than usual bus drive day from Dingle to Galway but with stops in Adare, a ferry ride to see the Cliffs of Mohar, a stop along the Burren and an introductory walk in Galway, plus the beautiful Irish countryside along the way, the drive was a pleasant way to spend a Sunday.

Let’s get started.

The adorable thatched roof cottages of Adare, a small village in County Limerick, Ireland, were built in the 1820s by Lord Dunraven. The heritage center village, founded in the 13th century, can honestly claim the title of Ireland’s prettiest village. We did not get too spend too much time here, but the time we did spend here was rather delightful. (July 7, 2019)

The adorable thatched roof cottages of Adare, a small village in County Limerick, Ireland, were built in the 1820s by Lord Dunraven. (July 7, 2019)

Along with being 40 shades of green, Ireland must also be home to the most vibrant flowers. These gorgeous red and yellow flowers were hanging from a basket at the front of the Blue Door Restaurant in Adare, a small village in County Limerick, Ireland. (July 7, 2019)

Me on the ferry with the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare, Ireland, in the distance. (July 7, 2019)

The Cliffs of Moher in County Clare, Ireland, as seen from the ferry run about nine miles in length and rise about 390 feet above the Atlantic Ocean at Hag’s Head. (July 7, 2019)

The Branaunmore sea stack of the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare, Ireland, as seen from sea level on the ferry. Sea stacks are often vertical columns of rock in the sea normally formed by wave erosion. (July 7, 2019)

An abandoned Norman tower is one of many throughout Ireland. The Norman invasion of Ireland took place in stages starting in 1169 and eventually led to the Anglo-Normans conquering large portions of land from the Irish. (July 5, 2019)

We stopped at a portion of the Burren in County Clare, Ireland. The Burren are considered one of the largest limestone areas in Europe. (July 7, 2019)

A fossil found on a piece of limestone rock at the Burren in County Clare, Ireland. (July 7, 2019)

The Blackhead Lighthouse at the Burren in County Clare, Ireland. (July 7, 2019)

On our drive to Galway, we passed this castle, the Dunguaire Castle in County Galway, Ireland, is a 16th-century tower house. (July 7, 2019)

The busy and vibrant food and entertainment center, or pub central, in Galway, County Clare, Ireland. (July 7, 2019)

Eyre Square in the heart of Galway City, in Galway County, Ireland, is officially known as the John F. Kennedy Memorial Park. The square has a rich history dating back to medieval times when markets took place on the green in front of the town gates, except for a small portion, no longer exist. (July 7, 2019)

It’s a memorial in honor of U.S. President John F. Kennedy in Eyre Square, now named the John F. Kennedy Memorial Park, in the city of Galway, Galway County, Ireland. In 1963 then President Kennedy came to Galway and gave a speech at this location in the park. (July 7, 2019)

A close-up of the sculpture of U.S. President John F. Kennedy at Eyre Square, now named the John F. Kennedy Memorial Park, in the city of Galway, Galway County, Ireland. Both the former president’s parents had familial roots in Ireland. (July 7, 2019)

Aran Islands & Galway

Just when I’m prepared for a cool, cloudy and rainy day in Galway, Ireland, it turns out to be anything but. And, if you’re going to scale to the top of a prehistoric stone fort, Monday was the day to do it. Getting to the Aran Islands required a ferry in Rossaveel where we boarded to and again back from the island. Once we landed at Inishmore, the largest of the three rocky islands and home to the prehistoric hill fort of Dún Aonghasa, we were picked up in two minivans and taken to the main settlement of Kilronan where we began our walk. It’s about a 25 minute walk to the prehistoric fort. Dún Aonghasa is the Irish or Gaelic name but the anglicized version is Dun Aengus.

After our time on Inishmore, we made it back to Galway where I had enough time to race to Galway Cathedral, and unbeknownst to me, just in time to attend mass inside the Renaissance style Roman Catholic cathedral.

Here’s Inishmore on the Aran Islands, the Galway Cathedral and little more of the city of Galway. On Tuesday, we spend the a night in Westport (three time winner of the Tidy Town competitions…more on that later) before making our way into Northern Ireland on Wednesday.

It’s that made it to the top look of happiness on my face. I’m at the first top level, through the outer enclosure Dun Aengus on Inishmore, the largest of the three Aran Islands in County Galway. Dun Aengus, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, is the largest of the prehistoric stone forts of the Aran Islands. Originally constructed around 1100 BC, it was re-fortified around 700-800 AD. There are no fences or barriers at the edge of this cliff. (July 8, 2019)

Walking up the initial small stone pathway to Dun Aengus on Inishmore, the largest of the three Aran Islands in County Galway. (July 8, 2019)

Approaching the 14 acre prehistoric site of fort Dun Aengus on Inishmore the largest of the three Aran Islands in County Galway. This is the first ramparts or outer enclosure surrounding a middle and an inner enclosure containing a platform on the edge of a three hundred foot high cliff. Also, this last section of the path is over rough, natural rock and a great deal of care needed to walk up and down. (July 8, 2019)

Approaching the 14 acre prehistoric site of fort Dun Aengus on Inishmore the largest of the three Aran Islands in County Galway, Ireland. This is the first ramparts or outer enclosure surrounding a middle and an inner enclosure containing a platform on the edge of a three hundred foot high cliff. Also, this last section of the path is over rough, natural rock and a great deal of care was needed to walk up and even more care was needed to walk down. (July 8, 2019)

This is what you see once you’ve reached the top of the first while stepping through the outer enclosure of the Dun Aengus fort on Inishmore, the largest of the three Aran Islands in County Galway, Ireland. It’s still rocky to walk on with patches of grass. (July 8, 2019)

This is the stone door opening to the second level or the inner enclosure of prehistoric site of fort Dun Aengus on Inishmore, the largest of the three Aran Islands in County Galway, Ireland. (July 8, 2019)

A very courageous Rick Steves tour mate, Teri who is also from Texas, getting a more than 300 ft edge view over the first level or within the outer ordinance of the rocky cliffs at the Dun Aengus fort on Inishmore, the largest of three Aran Islands in County Galway, Ireland. (July 8, 2019)

The upper-most portion of Dun Aengus, the prehistoric fort on Inishmore of the Aran Islands in County Galway, Ireland. (July 8, 2019)

Me, at the very top as close to the edge of the cliff as I’m willing to get, at the remains of the Dun Aengus prehistoric fort on Inishmore of the Aran Islands at County Galway, Ireland. That cliff edge is more than a 300 ft drop by way of rocky edges and seas. (July 8, 2019)

These 7th or 8th century ancient monastic and pilgrimage remains are called The Seven Churches on Inishmore, the Aran Islands in County Galway, Ireland. Although termed ‘ the seven churches’ there are only the remains of two churches with a number of domestic buildings possibly pilgrim hostels from late-Medieval Ireland. The title seven could possibly refer to the pilgrimage circuit of Rome which incorporated seven churches. (July 8, 2019)

Me standing inside the ancient remains of one of The Seven Churches on Inishmore, an Aran Island in Galway County. (July 8, 2019)

The church and dwelling remains at The Seven Churches ancient remains site on Inishmore, an Aran Island in Galway County. (July 8, 2019)

Old and new graves at The Seven Churches ancient ruins site on Inishmore, an Aran Island in Galway County. (July 8, 2019)

One of a handful of shops and restaurants around the harbour at Kilronan, the main settlement on Inishmore, of the Aran Island, in County Galway, Ireland. Our tour group arrived and departed by ferry from Rossaveal, about a 40 minute drive from Galway city. (July 8, 2019)

Shops and restaurants around the harbour at Kilronan, the main settlement on Inishmore, of the Aran Island, in County Galway, Ireland. Our tour group arrived and departed by ferry from Rossaveal, about a 40 minute drive from Galway city. (July 8, 2019)

The harbour area at Kilronan, the main settlement on Inishmore, of the Aran Island, in County Galway, Ireland. Our tour group arrived and departed by ferry from Rossaveal, about a 40 minute drive from Galway city. One of the two white ferries at the edge of the pier brought us back to Rossaveal. (July 8, 2019)

The Galway Cathedral in the city of Galway, County Galway, Ireland, began construction in 1958 on the site of an old city prison and was completed in 1965. , making it the last great stone cathedral to be built in Europe. The cathedral is jointly dedicated to Our Lady Assumed into Heaven and to St. Nicholas. (July 8, 2019)

The interior of the Galway Cathedral in the city of Galway, Ireland, with its distinguished dome looking towards the organ loft and nave. (July 8, 2019)

The interior sanctuary of the Galway Cathedral in the city of Galway, County Galway, Ireland. (July 8, 2019)

The huge crucifiction mosaic behind the altar at the Galway Cathedral in the city of Galway, County Galway, Ireland, is created from tiny coloured tiles. (July 8, 2019)

The colorful interior dome with paintings of angels on the vaulted ceilings of the Galway Cathedral in the city of Galway, County Galway, Ireland. (July 8, 2019)

The building and the art on the building, Sally Longs Rock Bar at Abbeygate Street in the city of Galway, Ireland, just caught my eye. I did not go in the building but Sally’s has been bringing metal and hard rock to the Galway Pub scene since 1988. But its the murals outside of the building that sparked my interest. The top mural looks like Elvis Presley reach out to God, the middle mural is a tribute to entertainers who have passed on like Kurt Cobain, Jim Morrison, Marilyn Monroe, John Lennon, Johnny Cash, Jimi Hendrix and Bob Marley. And, the third bottom mural has several entertainers I recognize like Bono, Prince, Tina Turner, Mick Jagger and others I don’t recognize. It was painted by Ciarán Dunlevy. (July 8, 2019)

A close-up of the entertainers mural on the exterior of Sally Longs Rock Bar in the city of Galway, Ireland. (July 8, 2019)

Saying good night and good-by to city of Galway, Ireland, as we move on toward Westport, Ireland and then onto Northern Ireland. (July 8, 2019)

Me in the company of two writers, Oscar Wilde (1854–1900 left), an Irish poet and playwright; and Eduard Vilde (1856–1933) a writer and diplomat born in Pudivere, a village in the country of Estonia. These two bronze-cast statues and myself are sitting on a granite bench on William Street, in the city of Galway, Ireland. (July 8, 2019)

Cong, Leenane & Westport

Sometimes, in the course of a day’s journey, there’s so much to take in that it truly requires a little time to just allow it to resonate. Our journey from Galway to Westport took us through dazzling lakes, mountains, hillsides and a landscape so green it gleams green. And, yet a part of that landscape is where diseased potatoes grew that ultimately led to about two million Irish people dying of starvation and others leaving their homeland.

I begin with our stops along the way, Ashford Castle, the School of Falconry, the village where “The Quiet Man” movie came to life, a harbour, the Connemara countryside, a famine memorial, a sheep farm and the TidyTown of Westport.

The Irish have a competition called TidyTown. We’ve encountered several TidyTown winners along the way, Kinsale being one of them and now Westport. The SuperValu TidyTowns competition is open to all areas, big or small, urban or rural, and each are entered under their respective population categories. It’s an annual competition and winners are announced in September. The focus of the competition is basically to encourage communities to improve their local environment and make their area a better place to live, work and visit. As a visitor, all I can say is “Thank you so very much.”

Westport is a 3-time TidyTown winner in 2001, 2006 and 2008. Then in 2012, it won the Best Place to Live in Ireland competition run by The Irish Times. Let me show you Westport and the beauty, plus the tragedy, of our revealing drive through Connemara’s Wild Atlantic Way with it’s lakes, greener than green landscapes and mountains.

Me on the grounds of the medieval and victorian Ashford Castle built around 1228 near the village of Long. Over the centuries it has expanded to a luxury hotel straddling the borders of County Galway and County Mayo. The castle is known for being the film location of the 1952 American romantic comedy-dream movie, “The Quiet Man.” Directed by John Ford it featured actors John Wayne, Maureen O’Hara and Barry Fitzgerald. Much of the movie was filmed on the grounds of Ashford Castle. (July 9, 2019)

Ashford Castle near the village of Cong, straddling the borders of County Galway and County Mayo, in Ireland, was founded around 1228 by the Anglo-Norman de Burgo family following their defeat of the native O’Connors of Connaught. In 1589, Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness purchased Ashford and extended the estate building new roads and planting thousands of trees, as well as adding two large Victorian style extensions. The director John Ford came to the West of Ireland to film what would become a movie classic “The Quiet Man.” The grounds of the castle, as well as nearby village of Cong, formed the backdrop for much of the action in the movie and many of its cast stayed at the castle. (July 9, 2019)

The bridge and gates of the Ashford Castle near the village of Cong, straddling the borders of County Galway and County Mayo, in Ireland. (July 9, 2019)

Just another look at Ashford Castle through its gate and bridge. The castle is located near the village of Cong, straddling the borders of County Galway and County Mayo, in Ireland. (July 9, 2019)

We spent a little time Tuesday morning at Ireland’s School of Falconry at Ashford Castle, near the village of Cong, straddling the borders of County Galway and County Mayo, in Ireland. Dingle, the owl, is 20 years old. (July 9, 2019)

I bowed out of my time with the hawk, but our bus driver, Pamela, along with pretty much all the members of our tour group got the chance to have the hawk take off and land on their gloved arms. These Hawk Walks are provided by Ireland’s School of Falconry at Ashford Castle, near the village of Cong, straddling the borders of County Galway and County Mayo, in Ireland. (July 9, 2019)

The statue of actors John Wayne and Maurenn O’Sullivan from the 1952 movie, “The Quiet Man” stands on a street corner in the village of Cong, County Mayo, Ireland, not far from many of the locations used for the movie including Ashford Castle. (July 9, 2019)

This quaint, little thatched roof cottage in the village of Cong, County Mayo, Ireland, is a reproduction from the movie “The Quiet Man” of the exterior of White O’Morn, the ancestral cottage bought by Sean Thornton (actor John Wayne) on his return to Ireland. The original cottage was in ruins. This reproduction is the Quiet Man Museum and souvenir shop. (July 9, 2019)

The village of Leenane in County Galway, Ireland, sits at the head of the Killary Harbour, Ireland’s only fjord, and is on the northern edge of Connemara. We stopped in the village to enjoy a group lunch as we continued our way from Galway to Westport through the Connemara region with its bog lands pristine lakes and mountains. (July 9, 2019)

Me with the Killary Harbour, Ireland’s only fjord as my backdrop. Our tour group stopped for lunch here at the village of Leenane in County Galway, before continuing on through Connemara in what’s called the Wild Atlantic Way on our way from Galways to Westport on Tuesday. (July 9, 2019)

The drive through the Connemara countryside of Ireland on our way from Galway to Westport was a feast for the eyes. This portion of Ireland, called the Wild Atlantic Way route, was to sum it up in one word, stunning! (July 9, 2019)

The drive through the Connemara countryside was drastically depopulated by the Great Famine or the Great Hunger between 1845 and 1849 when mass starvation, disease, and emigration occurred in Ireland. This area would have been where potato farmers lived and grew potatoes, but once the potato blight occurred, which destroyed the potato, the people, mostly peasants who depended on the potato, were unable to survive. Before it ended in 1852, the Potato Famine resulted in the death of roughly one million Irish from starvation and related causes, with at least another million forced to leave their homeland as refugees. (July 9, 2019)

Pascal, our Rick Steves tour guide, explaining a bog which basically forms over water when peat is created through the decomposed remains of dead plants. Over thousands of years, these plants have accumulated one on top of another in waterlogged places. Although it may look like harmless grass, when one side of our group jumped on the bog, the other side could feel the earth move. (July 9, 2019)

This weathered stone monument in the Doolough Valley (during our scenic and tragic drive from Galway to Westport) commemorates the hungry poor who on a bitterly cold day in 1849, up to 600 starving people gathered in Louisburgh seeking food but were told to go elsewhere and many died. (July 9, 2019)

The National Famine Memorial sculpture, called “Coffin Ship,” near Westport in County Mayor shows skeleton bodies swirling around it. Coffin ships, named so for it dire unhygienic conditions, honors the memory of all who died, suffered and emigrated due to the Great Famine of 1845 to 1850. (July 9, 2019)

A close-up of the skeleton portion of the National Famine Memorial sculpture called “Coffin Ship,” shows swirling skeletons near Westport in County Mayo, Ireland. (July 9, 2019)

This is the Glen Keen Sheep Farm in Louisburgh, County Mayo, Ireland, where our Rick Steves tour group to see a sheep herding demonstration. (July 9, 2019)

Catherine O’Grady Powers, of Glen Keen Sheep Farm in Louisburgh, County Mayo, Ireland, along with Holly, the 10-year-old border collie, demonstrated the commands given to Holly to direct the sheep out of the pen and bring them back into the pen. (July 9, 2019)

Views of Westport, Ireland, 3-time SuperValu TidyTowns competition winner in County Mayo, Ireland, where we spent Tuesday night. TidyTowns is an annual competition, first held in 1958, to honour the tidiest and most attractive cities, towns and villages in Ireland. Fundamentally, TidyTowns is about doing things properly – good planning, well maintained buildings and public spaces, appropriate landscaping and respect for natural amenities. It is also important to remember biodiversity, clean and uncluttered thoroughfares and, most importantly, community engagement. (July 9, 2019)

Colorful, beautiful flowers permeate the towns and village and the town of Westport, Ireland, 3-time Irish TidyTown winner in County Mayo where we stayed Tuesday night. (July 9, 2019)

Views of Westport, Ireland, 3-time TidyTown winner in County Mayo where we spent Tuesday night. (July 9, 2019)

Views of Westport, Ireland, 3-time TidyTown winner in County Mayo, Ireland, where we spent Tuesday night. (July 9, 2019)

Northern Ireland: Derry & Portrush

Our last stop on Wednesday in Donegal was also our last stop in the Republic of Ireland as our tour group seamlessly made our way out of the Southern state and into Northern Ireland. At one time there was an actual physical border required to cross, but now an invisible line exists as people make their way back and forth.

Southern Ireland, now the self-governing Republic of Ireland since 1949, was previously the Irish Free State. Southern Ireland became a Free State when it separated from Northern Ireland in a 1922 partition. Ireland as a whole was part of the United Kingdom of Great Britain until the partition which includes North Ireland, England, Scotland and Wales as member states.

The break-up of Ireland led to decades of unrest and violence in Northern Ireland and this conflict became known as the Troubles.

Derry, officially Londonderry, is widely regarded as the place where the conflict, the Troubles began, with the Battle of the Bogside. But, it was the Civil Rights Movement and the work of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. in the United States that inspired the Irish Civil Rights activists. In the early 1970s Derry was heavily militarised and there was widespread civil unrest. Several districts in the city constructed barricades to control access and prevent the forces of the state from entering. The ‘Bloody Sunday’ incident of 1972 occurred in Derry, in the bogside area.

The Troubles, a difficult period of political and nationalistic conflict that began in the late 1960s and is usually ended with the Good Friday Agreement of 1998, is a complicated matter. Suffice it to say, it was not a religious conflict.

In simple terms, the Troubles was not a religious conflict. Instead, it was about one group who wanted Northern Ireland to leave the United Kingdom and become a united Ireland and the other group who wanted Northern Ireland to remain within the United Kingdom. The conflict, which last some 30 years, came to a close with the Good Friday Agreement of 1998.

Let’s explore just a wee bit of Derry through the art work that memorializes key events during the Troubles and some Derry history. Next stop is the seaside resort of Portrush, Northern Ireland, where our group got to see the amazing stones and views of the Giant’s Causeway; tour the Old Bushmills Distillery; walk a stony path with deep steps to the Rope Bridge and be mesmerized by the dramatic cliff side Dunluce Castle.

This mural, one of several on Rossville Street in the Bogside area of Derry, County Londonberry in Norther Ireland is called Civil Rights. The large gable-wall murals are by several artists most notably called the Bogside Artists. The series of outdoor murals are called the People’s Gallery and depicts the events surrounding the sectarian violence and civil rights protests in Northern Ireland during the Troubles. (July 10, 2019)

More murals on Rossville Street in Bogside, an area in Derry, County Londonderry, Northern Ireland. The large gable-wall murals are by several artists most notably called the Bogside Artists. The series of outdoor murals are called the People’s Gallery and depicts the events surrounding the sectarian violence and civil rights protests in Northern Ireland during the Troubles. The mural to the left is called A Tribute to John Hume and the mural to the right is the Peggy O’Hara & Margaret Devine mural. (July 10, 2019)

This mural is called “A Tribute to John Hume” who is featured on the top left of the mural on Rossville Street in Bogside, an area in Derry, County Londonderry, Northern Ireland. The large gable-wall murals are by several artists most notably called the Bogside Artists. The series of outdoor murals are called the People’s Gallery and depicts the events surrounding the sectarian violence and civil rights protests in Northern Ireland during the Troubles. The mural also depicts Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. (top right), whom Hume cited during the unveiling of the mural in 2008 as the man who influenced him most during his campaign for the democratic rights of the oppressed Catholics in the north of Ireland. Mother Theresa (bottom left) and Nelson Mandela. All four won the Nobel Peace Prize. (July 10, 2019)

This mural on Rossville Street in the Bogside area of Derry, County Londonderry in Northern Ireland depicts Bernadette Devlin, now McAliskey, addressing the crowds on the streets of the Bogside. She later received a prison sentence for taking part in, and inciting, a riot. (July 10, 2019)

This mural on Rossville Street in the Bogside area of Derry depicts Bernadette Devlin, now McAliskey, addressing the crowds on the street. She later received a prison sentence for taking part in, and inciting, a riot. (July 10, 2019)

It’s called Death of Innocence and the young girl in the mural is 14-year-old Annette McGavigan who was killed Sept. 6, 1971 by a British soldier while she was standing on the street where she lived in Bogside, Derry, North Ireland.
The mural was originally unveiled Sept. 1, 1999 and depicted Annette in her school uniform with an encircled, partly coloured butterfly with a broken rifle in red and pointing downwards. In June 2006 the Bogside Artists put some finishing touches to the mural they had first unveiled in 1999.
The large gable-wall murals are by several artists most notably called the Bogside Artists. The series of outdoor murals are called the People’s Gallery and depicts the events surrounding the sectarian violence and civil rights protests in Northern Ireland during the Troubles. (July 10, 2019)

The Peace Mural depicts the swirling image of a dove, considered the symbol of peace and of Derry’s patron, Saint Columba. The mural was completed July 30, 2004 on Rossville Street in the Bogside area of Derry, County Londonderry, Northern Ireland.
The large gable-wall murals are by several artists most notably called the Bogside Artists. The series of outdoor murals are called the People’s Gallery and depicts the events surrounding the sectarian violence and civil rights protests in Northern Ireland during the Troubles. (July 10, 2019)

Bishops Street Gate and the old Derry City Walls of County Londonderry in Northern Ireland are the only remaining completely intact walls in all of Ireland. The walls were built in 1613–1619 by The Honourable The Irish Society, a consortium of trade guilds, as defences for early 17th century settlers from England and Scotland. (July 10, 2019)

The views of Bogside, the neighborhood near Derry and outside of the Derry City Walls involved with the Troubles in Northern Ireland. The intact walls provide a unique promenade to view the layout of the original town which still preserves its Renaissance style street plan. (July 10, 2019)

The promenade of the Derry City Walls built in 1613–1619 by The Honourable The Irish Society, a consortium of trade guilds, as defences for early 17th century settlers from England and Scotland. It is one of the few cities in Europe that never saw its fortifications breached, withstanding several sieges including the famous Siege of Derry in 1689 which lasted 105 days. (July 10, 2019)

During our wall promenade walk, we passed the quaint St. Augustine’s Church, within the Derry City Walls, in Londonderry, Northern Ireland. Initially, on this site, Saint Columba, an Irish abbot and missionary evangelist credited with spreading Christianity along with being Derry’s patron saint, built an abbey in 543 AD. But he departed from Derry, down the River Foyle, with his supporters to the Island of Iona in 563 AD. St. Augustine’s was built in 1872 and is fondly known as ‘the Wee Church on the Walls.’ (July 10, 2019)

Also during our wall walk we passed The Apprentice Boys of Derry headquarters, Memorial Hall in Derry, Londonderry, Northern Ireland. The hall, which was opened in 1877, is dedicated to the memory of the 13 apprentice boys who closed the city gates in 1688 against a regiment of 1,200 Jacobite soldiers. (July 10, 2019)

Peering over the Derry City Walls, County Londonderry, Northern Ireland, during our tour group wall walk. (July 10, 2019)

Views from our tour group wall walk of the Derry City Walls in Londonderry, Northern Ireland. (July 10, 2019)

Walking the Derry City Walls, built in 1613–1619, in County Londonderry, Northern Ireland. (July 10, 2019)

The Derry City Walls, built in 1613–1619, in County Londonderry, Northern Ireland. (July 10, 2019)

Our tour group exiting the Derry City Walls in Londonderry, Northern Ireland. (July 10, 2019)

The Derry City Walls, built in 1613–1619, in County Londonderry, Northern Ireland, are about one mile in circumference and vary in height between 12 and 35 feet. (July 10, 2019)

The gate and Derry City Walls in County Londonderry, Northern Ireland. (July 10, 2019)

The Guildhall, where many events of a social and political nature have been held, is one of Derry’s most recognizable landmarks in County Londonderry, Northern Ireland. The Guildhall, with its neo-Gothic red sandstone and huge stained-glass windows, been at the heart of city life since 1890. The square, in front of the Guildhall is the main city square and plays host to important events. (July 10, 2019)

The Derry Peace Bridge over the River Foyle, opened June 25, 2011 in Londonderry, Northern Ireland, The elegant architecture of the foot and cycle bridge, with its two structural arms heading in opposite directions, symbolizes the unification of once bitterly divided communities. (July 10, 2019)

My plan was to walk across the Peace Bridge in Derry, County Londonderry, Northern Ireland, but it began to rain so I retreated to the tour bus for our journey to our home base for the next two nights, Portrush, Northern Ireland. (July 10, 2019)

Our home for two nights, the Adelphi in Portrush, County Antrim, Northern Ireland. Portrush is a small seaside resort town known for its sandy beaches…best when it’s not raining like it was when we arrived. (July 10, 2019)

A view of Portrush’s beach area in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. (July 10, 2019)

County Antrim & Bushmills

It was a day of long walks to and through the spectacular sites of the Giant’s Causeway basalt columns, a rocky climb to the rope bridge at Carrick-a-Rede and the cliff top ruins of Dunluce Castle. Between the dramatic sites was a tour, and a very nice shot of some smooth 12-year-old single malt whiskey, at the Old Bushmills Distillery. Enjoy the views.

Next stop Belfast.

Me at the Giant’s Causeway, in County Antrim, Northern Ireland, is an area of over 40,000 interlocking basalt columns created in the aftermath of a volcanic eruption 60 millions of years ago. When humans first laid eyes on the Causeway, they assumed it could only be the work of Giants, so hence the name and from there the various giant stories of lore began. Although stories of the causeway stones were told for hundreds of years, the first written record was a letter to the Royal Society (an academic society founded in 1660) in 1688 by Robert Redding and four years later, the Bishop of Derry, William King visited the Causeway in 1692 and submitted his account to the Royal Society. (July 11, 2019)

The Giant’s Causeway, in County Antrim, Northern Ireland, is steeped in myth and legend. Was it carved by the might giant Finn McCool or the result of intense volcanic and geological activity some 60 million years of the cooling and shrinking of successive lava flows. (July 11, 2019)

The geological wonder of the Giant’s Causeway, in County Antrim, Northern Ireland, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (July 11, 2019)

The Giant’s Causeway, in County Antrim, Northern Ireland, is an area of over 40,000 interlocking basalt columns created in the aftermath of a volcanic eruption millions of years ago. (July 11, 2019)

This is called the Giant’s Gate to the Giant’s Causeway, in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. (July 11, 2019)

Views of the Giant’s Causeway coast line in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. (July 11, 2019)

Me standing at the Giant’s Organ of the Giant’s Causeway in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. (July 11, 2019)

Views of the Giant’s Causeway coast line and trails in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. (July 11, 2019)

Views of the Giant’s Causeway coast line and trails in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. There are several trails. I took my time and enjoyed the views. (July 11, 2019)

The Shepherds Steps, the first part of the more than 162 rocky, uneven steps, up towards more spectacular views and eventually to the Visitor’s Center of the Giant’s Causeway in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. (July 11, 2019)

My Rick Steves tour buddy Page and her family, son Colin and husband Larry, officially became my first buddies-in-law…their description, but I ran with it. Thank you Page for making that ‘meaningful eye contact’ to check on me. We’re standing at the foot of the Shepherd’s Steps at the Giant’s Causeway in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. (July 11, 2019)

Made that first initial climb up the Shepherd’s Steps of the Giant’s Causeway in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. At the bottom of the stairs is Kevin, a Rick Steves tour member, waiting on his wife Fely still checking out the wonders along the trail. (July 11, 2019)

After climbing up the Shepherd’s Stairs of the Giant’s Causeway in County Antrim, Norther Ireland, this is the magnificent view down of the more than 40,000 interlocking basalt columns created in the aftermath of a volcanic eruption 60 millions of years ago. (July 11, 2019)

More views along the cliffs and coastline of the Giant’s Causeway coast line and trails in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. (July 11, 2019)

Views from the walk back to the Visitor’s Center of the Giant’s Causeway in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. This turned out to be about a two hour walk/hike, at my own pace, that in all honesty went by rather quickly as I enjoyed the stunning views. (July 11, 2019)

Visited the oldest licensed whiskey distillery, the Old Bushmills Distillery in the village Bushmills, near Portrush, in Northern Ireland. (July 11, 2019)

The Old Bushmills Distillery in the village of Bushmills in County Antrim, Northern Ireland, became a licensed distillery on April 20, 1608 when King James I granted Sir Thomas Phillips, the landowner and Governor of County Antrim, Ireland, a license to distil. The Bushmills Old Distillery Co. itself was not established until 1784 by Hugh Anderson. After various periods of closure the distillery has been in continuous operation since it was rebuilt after a fire in 1885. (July 11, 2019)

A part of the Old Bushmills Distillery tour in the village of Bushmills, Northern Ireland, is the whiskey tasting. Bushmills is known for their triple-distillation of their whiskies creating a combination of smoothness and richness. I’m not a whiskey drinker but I tried the 12-year-old Reserve, which can only be purchased at the distillery, and for 40 proof alcohol, it really was rather smooth tasting. (July 11, 2019)

A display case of the Old Bushmills Distillery range of whiskey in the village of Bushmills, Northern Ireland. (July 11, 2019)

The views from the County Antrim mainland to the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge in Ireland. Today was a day of a lot of walking and a lot of absolutely incredible views. (July 10, 2019)

The journey on the County Antrim mainland to the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge in Ireland. (July 11, 2019)

The views of the County Antrim mainland to the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge in Ireland. (July 11, 2019)

Waiting for my turn to walk over the Carrick-a Rede rope bridge in Northern Ireland. The rope bridge, over the Atlantic Ocean, links the mainland to the tiny island of Carrick-a-Rede. It spans 66 feet and is 98 feet above the rocks below. (In front of me are Rick Steve tour members Karen and Jay and to the left, in the white shirt, is our Rick Steves tour bus driver, Pamela.) (July 11, 2019)

Thank you Karen, my Rick Steves tour member, for my walk across the Rope Bridge action shot. The rope bridge, over the Atlantic Ocean, links the mainland to the tiny island of Carrick-a-Rede. It spans 66 feet and is 98 feet above the rocks below. (July 11, 2019)

Views of the mainland from the tiny island of Carrick-a-Rede, County Antrim, Northern Ireland. (July 11, 2019)

Our last visit of gorgeous views for the day was the ruins of Dunluce Castle, close to Portrush, County Antrim, Northern Ireland. The castle is surrounded by extremely steep drops which were probably an important defense factor. A defended this site from at least 500 AD, the present castle ruins mainly date from the 16th and 17th centuries. It was inhabited by both the feuding McQuilland and MacDonnell clans. (July 11, 2019)

Making our way along the promontory of Dunluce Castle in County Antrim, Northern Ireland towards the Gate House. The castle is the film location of the Game of Thrones Seat of House Greyjoy, the great castle of Pyke. (July 11, 2019)

The ruin remains of the medieval Dunluce Castle near Portrush, County Antrim, Northern Ireland, is located on the edge of a basalt outcropping. (July 11, 2019)

The Gate House entrance at Dunluce Castle in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. (July 11, 2019)

The lodgings, built to house visitors, of the Dunluce Castle in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. (July 11, 2019)

The iconic ruin of Dunluce Castle bears witness to a long and tumultuous history. First built on the dramatic coastal cliffs of north County Antrim by the MacQuillan family around 1500, the earliest written record of the castle was in 1513. (July 11, 2019)

The Inner Ward and cobblestone walkway of Dunluce Castle in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. This was one of the most secure areas of the castle and housed kitchens, a bake house and lodgings for members of the MacDonnells’ household and castle staff. (July 11, 2019)

The dramatic cliffside views of the Dunluce Castle in County Antrim, Northern Ireland, come with tales of n only how the castle kitchen fell into the sea one stormy night in 1639. (July 11, 2019)

The views from Dunluce Castle in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. (July 11, 2019)

Belfast

It’s the capital and largest city of Northern Ireland plus it’s the last stop of my Rick Steves Best of Ireland 14 Days tour. The city is Belfast. Truth is, we only had a day in the city and for me, that was enough. I’m not sure why but I didn’t connect to Belfast like I did to the towns and villages. But I did enjoy my Rick Steves group of travelers. I entered the group as the only solo traveler and end it in the company of people I’ve wholly enjoyed and who caringly took me under their wing.

Next stop Inverness, Scotland, where I’ll meet up with my good friend and travel buddy, Bonnie, after spending a little time just chilling out for a couple of days. More on that later. For now, here’s a bit of Belfast as I say goodbye to Ireland and my Rick Steves travel group.

Belfast, Northern Ireland, a city DescriptionBelfast is Northern Ireland’s capital. It was the birthplace of the RMS Titanic, which famously struck an iceberg and sunk in 1912. This legacy is recalled in the renovated dockyards’ Titanic Quarter, which includes the Titanic Belfast, an aluminium-clad museum reminiscent of a ship’s hull, as well as shipbuilder Harland & Wolff’s Drawing Offices and the Titanic Slipways, which now host open-air concerts.