The Western Balkans: Macedonia, Kosovo, Albania, Montenegro & Croatia

Made it safely from Madrid to Istanbul, and thru its absolutely deluxe airport, and now to my hotel in Skopje, Macedonia. I have so enjoyed hanging out with Alice, Tammy, Anita, Janet and John during this past month of traveling from Paris through Morocco and Spain. We’ve really run the gamut of activities and experiences through our travels. And, now, I move on to Skopje, Macedonia, where I begin my Intrepid Travel tour of five Western Balkan countries.

The travel map for my Intrepid Travel tour that begins in Skopje, Macedonia and includes Kosovo, Albania, Montenegro and and ends in Dubrovnik, Croatia. I’ve been to Croatia and Dubrovnik but I wouldn’t mind walking that wall one more time.

Kosovo – Prizren

Staying in Skopje, North Macedonia, but crossed the border to spend the cool and rainy day in Prizren, Kosovo. Macedonia and Kosovo are part of the former Yugoslavia along with Serbia, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Montenegro.

However, Kosovo is the subject of a territorial dispute between the Kosovo and Serbia. Kosovo declared its independence in February 2008, but Serbia continues to claim it as part of its own sovereign territory. Kosovo has been recognized as an independent state by 112 out of 193 United Nations member states. And, in order to get into Kosovo, we had to show our passports at the Macedonia border, to exit and get our stamps, and again at the Kosovo border to enter and get our stamps…and the same when we came back to Macedonia.

The 15 month Kosovo War began in 1998 because the ethnic Albanians living in Kosovo faced the pressure of the Serbs from Serbia who wanted control of the region. It is a very complicated matter in which many lives were lost along with many people being displaced. I can’t even begin to comprehend what the people of this country experienced during that difficult time, but the part of Kosovo I experienced today, by way of Prizren, was filled with very kind and welcoming locals.

Prizren is the second largest and what is considered to be the most beautiful city in Albania. (approx. 2,5 hours). Here you’ll find traditional handicraft shops and Ottoman charm. Located at the foot of the Sar Mountains, the city about a two and a half hour drive from Skopje, was first inhabited by the Romans in the 2nd century AD, while the Ottomans and the Byzantines also left their mark in the architecture of the cityscape. It was luckily spared destruction during the 1999 conflict.

An orientation walk helped with giving us bearings of the city, which was compact and easy to get around including a walk alongside the Bistrica river, the cobbled Shadervan square and the Old Stone Bridge along with the city’s mosques and shops.

For me, the colorful crochet doilies adorning the tree trunks just put a smile on my face and truly warmed my heart. Called ‘yarn bombing’, it is a colorful international movement by women to keep the art of crocheting alive with the added bonus of showing love and community. As to why it was done in Prizren, Kosovo, and by whom, well that I wasn’t able to find out. According to my Intrepid Tour guide for this Western Balkans trip, Flutra, a Kosovo native, the crochet tree trunk coverings began more than four years ago in Prizren by a local female artist whose name is unfortunately, not known.

Here is but a glimpse into today’s Kosovo by way of the culturally and ethnically diverse city of Prizren.

After crossing the border from Macedonia to Kosovo, to spend the day in Prizren, we made a coffe/bathroom stop at the Koha Restaurant in Prevalle, Kosovo. But the most spectacular thing about this stop were the snow covered mountain views. (May 12, 2019)

Although it was cold and even starting to rain, a number of people, including this young man, were selling blue berry, black berry and raspberry syrups in Prevalle, Kosovo, on our way to Prizren, Kosovo, for the day. (May 13, 2019)

Me by one of the many tree trunks wearing colorful crochet doilies in Prizren, Kosovo, that I literally fell in love with and enjoyed stopping by them, examining them and then just taking photos galore of them. (May 12, 2019)

The evil eye-looking crochet doilies covering this tree trunk in the historic center of Prizren, Kosovo. (May 12, 2019)

The Shadervan, or tourist area of the historic center of Prizren, Kosovo, where there are a number of shops, cafes and restaurants. (May 12, 2019)

Maybe I am feeling sentimental or even a little sappy because it’s Mother’s Day in the U.S. and I’m in Kosovo and Macedonia. Maybe it’s because these colorful crochet doilies remind me of my paternal grandmother’s gorgeous crochet pieces that reside in my home. Either way, these tree doilies in the historic center of Prizren, Kosovo, made me feel wrapped in love. (May 12, 2019)

The Shadervan, or tourist area of the historic center of Prizren, Kosovo, where there are a number of shops, cafes and restaurants. This ancient water fountain is a protected cultural monument, there is a legend that if you drink from it you will be sure to come back. (May 12, 2019)

What can I say, I just fell for these crochet tree doilies in the historic center of Prizren, Kosovo, and I’m a sucker for red. (May 12, 2019)

Couldn’t exactly pass up this crochet tree doilies in the historic center of Prizren, Kosovo, with such beautiful red flowers.(May 12, 2019)

The Sinan Pasha Mosque, an Ottoman mosque built in 1615, and is the dominant feature in the skyline of the historic center of Prizren, Kosovo. (May 12, 2019)

Inside the Sinan Pasha Mosque with its huge chandelier in the historic center of Prizren, Kosovo. (May 12, 2019)

My lunch at the Tiffany Restaurant in Prizren, Kosovo, that specializes in traditional Albanian cuisine. I had the meatballs and Irene, whom I was having lunch with, had the spiced meat patty. We split the potatoes and vegetables. (May 12, 2019)

Potatoes with cream and a vegetable mix with tomatoes at the Tiffany Restaurant in Prizren, Kosovo, that specializes in traditional Albanian cuisine. (May 12, 2019)

Oh, look, another colorful doily covered tree trunk in the historic center of Prizren, Kosovo. (May 12, 2019)

The landmark Old Stone Bridge that crosses the Prizrenska Bistrica river in Prizren, Kosovo, with another landmark, the Sinan Pasha Mosque so vividly in the distance. (May 12, 2019)

The Sinan Pasha Mosque, built in 1615, overlooks the main street of Prizren, North Macedonia, and is a dominant feature in the town’s skyline. (May 12, 2019)

The Prizrenska Bistrica river in Prizren, Kosovo. (May 12, 2019)

While standing on the landmark Old Stone Bridge that crosses the Prizrenska Bistrica river in Prizren, Kosovo, with another landmark, the Sinan Pasha Mosque in the distance. (May 12, 2019)

The Cathedral of the Helping Lady is a Catholic Church in Prizren, Kosovo. I tried to go in, but unfortunately, the doors were locked. (May 12, 2019)

The Gazi Mehmet Pasha Hamam, a Turkish bath, in Prizren, Kosovo, was built during the period of 1563-1574. The Hamam includes all areas required for such baths, including an entry area (reception and bar), wardrobe, central part of bath, the sweating area, the entertainment area, and the heating area, in the south part of the building. The Bath is constructed in various stones, combined with brick. (May 12, 2019)

The Gazi Mehmet Pasha Hamam, a Turkish bath, in Prizren was built during the period of 1563-1574. The Hamam includes all areas required for such baths, including an entry area (reception and bar), wardrobe, central part of the bath, the sweating area, the entertainment area, and the heating area, in the south part of the building. (May 12, 2019)

Pink and white doilies hugging a tree trunk in the historic center of Prizren, Kosovo. (May 12, 2019)

The large Main Street of shops and restaurants in the historic center of Prizren, Kosovo. (May 12, 2019)

Yes, and here’s another colorful doily covered tree trunk in the historic center of Prizren, Kosovo. (May 12, 2019)

The love locks pedestrian bridge crossing the Prizrenska Bistrica river in Prizren, Kosovo. (May 12, 2019)

A view of the Old Stone Bridge, the Sinan Pasha Mosque and the Shadervan restaurants, shops and cafe area while overlooking the love locks bridge that crosses the Prizrenska Bistrica river in Prizren, Kosovo. (May 12, 2019)

I end my crochet doily tree obsession with these trees along the road in the historic center of Prizren, Kosovo. Happy Mother’s Day one and all! (May 12, 2019)

North Macedonia – Skopje

Spent an overcast, cool and drizzling day in and around Skopje. We began the morning with a drive and then a walk to the Canyon Matka, a deep ravine cut into the Suva mountains, for a small boat trip down the Matka Lake to the Vrelo Cave with its incredible stalagmites.This area is home to several medieval monasteries, caves, and over 70 species of endemic butterflies.

Then after a quick stop back at the hotel in Skopje, several tour members and myself, who have not had an opportunity to check out the highlights of Skopje, were treated to an orientation walk by our Intrepid Travel guide, Flutra, whose name means butterfly in Albania.

An important part of the orientation walk was the introduction to Skopje’s statues, Skopje’s many statues along with a memorial home to Mother Teresa. A 1963 earthquake damaged quite a bit of the city, but it wasn’t until the government-funded Skopje 2014 project that neoclassical-style buildings and monuments came to be. However, critics opposed the project as a waste of resources in a country with high unemployment and poverty.

Me getting ready to take the hike up to the Vrelo Cave with the Canyon Matka lake, just a 30 minute drive from Skopje, North Macedonia, as my beautiful backdrop. (May 13, 2019)

The Matka Lake within the Matka Canyon just outside of Skopje, North Macedonia. (May 13, 2019)

Inside the Vrelo Cave accessed from the Matka Lake within the Matka Canyon in Skopje, North Macedonia, with its many stalactites. (May 13, 2019)

Inside the Vrelo Cave, accessed from the Matka Lake within the Matka Canyon in Skopje, North Macedonia, with its many stalactites including a large one in the middle of the cave including this “Pine Cone” due to its shape. (May 13, 2019)

Inside the Vrelo Cave, accessed from the Matka Lake within the Matka Canyon in Skopje, North Macedonia, with its marshmallow-looking formations. (May 13, 2019)

The St. Andrew’s Monastery by the Matka Lake within the Matka Canyon just outside of Skopje, North Macedonia, was built in 1389. (May 13, 2019)

The Monument to Fallen Heroes for Macedonia at the In Zena Borec Park in Skopje, North Macedonia. (May 13, 2019)

The Monument to Fallen Heroes for Macedonia at the In Zena Borec Park in Skopje, North Macedonia, with the statue in the form of Prometheus as the torch bearer. Prometheus originally was naked, but after complaints by women’s organizations he was given some underwear. (May 13, 2019)

A mammoth socialist leaders statue in Skopje, North Macedonia, commemorating the establishment of the Anti-Fascist Assembly for the People’s Liberation of Macedonia (ASNOM) in 1944. (May 13, 2019)

A close-up of the mammoth socialist leaders statue in Skopje, North Macedonia, commemorating the establishment of the Anti-Fascist Assembly for the People’s Liberation of Macedonia (ASNOM) in 1944. (May 13, 2019)

The statue of the founders of the Internal Macedonian Revolutionary Organization, founded in 1893, can be seen at Zena Borec Park in Skopje, North Macedonia. The group’s purpose was to obtain autonomy for Macedonia from the Ottoman empire. (May 13, 2019)

One of the main symbols of the many millions of dollars Skopje 2014 project is this triumphal arch, the Porta Macedonia, near Macedonia Square in Skopje, North Macedonia. The arch is meant to commemorate the long struggle for Macedonian independence. (May 13, 2019)

The Alexander the Great statue in the Macedonia Square in Skopje, North Macedonia. The square is part of the Skopje 2014 project. (May 13, 2019)

The massive statue of Alexander the Great in the Macedonia Square in Skopje, North Macedonia. Alexander the Great (356 – 323 BC) was born in Pella, the ancient capital of Macedonia. (May 13, 2019)

The massive Macedonia Square, with the statue of Alexander the Great in the center and the white, neoclassical-style Marriott Hotel to the right in Skopje. (May 13, 2019)

The pedestrian Stone Bridge, built on Roman foundations between 1451 and 1469, connects the historic Old Town to Macedonia Square and the modern commercial centre of Skopje, North Macedonia. Most of the Stone Bridge originates from the Ottoman period and throughout the centuries, the Stone Bridge was often damaged and then repaired. (May 13, 2019)

The Mothers of Macedonia fountain in Skopje with the larger than life bronze statue of the warrior King Philip in the distance who was assassinated in 336 BC. (May 13, 2019)

The Mothers of Macedonia fountain in Skopje, North Macedonia. (May 13, 2019)

The Old Skopje Bazar in Skopje, North Macedonia, is considered to be one of the oldest and largest marketplaces in the Balkans and has been Skopje’s centre for trade and commerce since at least the 12th century. (May 13, 2019)

The statue of Mother Teresa by the Memorial House of Mother Teresa in Skopje, North Macedonia. (May 13, 2019)

The Memorial House of Mother Teresa, dedicated to the humanitarian and Nobel Peace Prize laureate. She lived in Skopje, North Macedonia, where she lived from 1910 to 1928. (May 13, 2019)

Inside the Memorial House of Mother Teresa in Skopje, Macedonia. Mary Teresa Bojaxhiu, commonly known as Mother Teresa in the Roman Catholic Church, was an Albanian-Indian Roman Catholic nun and missionary who was born in Skopje, North Macedonia. (May 13, 2019)

Photos of Mary Teresa Bojaxhiu, commonly known as Mother Teresa, inside the Memorial House of Mother Teresa in Skopje, North Macedonia. (May 13, 2019)

A life sized wax statue of Mother Teresa, inside the Memorial House of Mother Teresa in Skopje, North Macedonia. (May 13, 2019)

The chapel inside the Memorial House of Mother Teresa in Skopje, North Macedonia. (May 13, 2019)

North Macedonia – Ohrid and Lake Ohrid

Still in North Macedonia but we have moved on from Skopje to Ohrid and Lake Ohrid. Although the weather continued today to be cool and rainy, the sun did make an appearance and the orientation walk through Ohrid, while in full view of Lake Ohrid, made for a calming day even through the rain.

Archaeological finds indicate that Ohrid is one of the oldest human settlements in all of Europe and Lake Ohrid is more than three million years old. The town is said to have once been home to 365 churches, one for each day of the year, earning it the nickname “the Macedonian Jerusalem”, while historical excavations date back to Neolithic times. Despite being a World Heritage site for over 30 years, the town remains under the radar of visitors.

But the one delightful thing that I didn’t expect to be so thrilling was the opportunity to step back in time and watch a paper-making and Gutenberg Press demonstration. It’s actually a small workshop with the museum mixed in, but the National Workshop for Handmade Paper is a thrill for a per maven like me. Plus, Ohrid has been printing paper since the 16th century and this museum/shop supposedly has one of only two copies of the Gutenberg Press in the world.

Here’s the city of Ohrid and Lake Ohrid in Macedonia.

Ohrid is the city on the banks of Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia, and known as one of the oldest human settlements in the world with a wealth of historic sites and religious monuments. Ohrid and Lake Ohrid were declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. (May 14, 2019)

Walking the plank, so to speak, by a cliff in the city of Ohrid on the banks of Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia. (May 14, 2019)

Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia is considered one of Europe’s deepest and oldest lakes. (May 13, 2019)

Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia is considered one of Europe’s deepest and oldest lakes. (May 14, 2019)

The Church of St. John at Kaneo is situated high above the city of Ohrid with a stunning view of Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia. The construction date of the church remains unknown but documents detailing the church property suggests that it was built before 1447. (May 14, 2019)

The small alter inside the small Church of St. John at Kaneo, situated high above the city of Ohrid with its stunning view of Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia. (May 14, 2019)

Restoration work in 1964, inside the Church of St. John at Kaneo situated high above the city of Ohrid with its stunning views of Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia, led to the fresco discovery of Christ in the dome. (May 14, 2019)

The wall paintings inside the Church of St. John at Kaneo situated high above the city of Ohrid with a stunning view of Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia suggests a more accurate date of for the church at around 1270-1280 AD. (May 14, 2019)

Entering the old town area of Ohrid in North Macedonia. Ohrid, first mentioned in Greek documents from 353 BCE when it was known as Lychnidos, was formed between the 12th and 13th centuries on the shores of Lake Ohrid. (May 14, 2019)

Old town Ohrid in North Macedonia. (May 14, 2019)

It is a simple bazaar consisting of mainly one street, St Clement of Ohrid Street, in Ohrid, North Macedonia, is lined with shops, cafes, and restaurants. (May 14, 2019)

Ohrid, North Macedonia, is a popular tourist destination, which is largely what its economy is based on. And, “pearls,” not genuine ones but “pearls” made by coating a bead in a paste made of fish scales are called Ohrid. (May 14, 2019)

A little side street, in Ohrid, North Macedonia, is lined with shops, cafes, and restaurants. (May 14, 2019)

Our group orientation walk through the old town of Ohrid as we approached the Church of St. Sophia, an important North Macedonia monument. (May 14, 2019)

The Church of St. Sophia in old town Ohrid, North Macedonia, considered an important monument for its architecture and Middle Ages art. (May 14, 2019)

The Church of St. Sophia in old town Ohrid, New Macedonia. (May 14, 2019)

The rear side of the Church of St. Sophia in old town Ohrid, New Macedonia. (May 14, 2019)

Staircase alleyway in old town Ohrid, North Macedonia.(May 14, 2019)

Street in old town Ohrid, North Macedonia. (May 14, 2019)

The monument of Saints and brothers Cyril and Methodius in the old town of Ohrid, North Macedonia, who were Byzantine Christian theologians and Christian missionaries who are credited with devising the Glagolitic script considered the oldest known Slavic alphabet. (May 14, 2019)

We were hungry and it was starting to rain so Irene, my Intrepid Tour mate, and I decided to drop into the Antico Restaurant in Ohrid, North Macedonia. The restaurant has a history of its own. although the restaurant portion began in 1988, the building it is housed in dates from 1855. (May 14, 2019)

I had these delicious locally made sausages at the Antico Restaurant in Ohrid, North Macedonia. (May 14, 2019)

And, my tour mate, Irene, had these stuffed peppers at the Antico Restaurant in Ohrid, North Macedonia. So, in an effort to taste it all, I gave Irene one of my sausages and she gave me one of her stuff peppers…and it was all a very delicious late afternoon lunch. (May 14, 2019)

The entrance to the small two-room National Workshop for Handmade Paper in the city of Ohrid located on the banks of Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia. (May 14, 2019)

Along with being a fabric addict, I also love paper so it was such a treat to stop in at the small two-room National Workshop for Handmade Paper in the city of Ohrid located on the banks of Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia. Marina very kindly and gladly offered to demonstrate first stirring the paper-making solution of water, cotton and oak tree. (May 14, 2019)

Inside the National Workshop for Handmade Paper in the old town of Ohrid, North Macedonia, Marina is using a screen to collect the water, cotton and oak tress to create a sheet of paper. (May 14, 2019)

Inside the National Workshop for Handmade Paper in the old town of Ohrid, North Macedonia, with a machine used to press and dry out the paper. The Gutenberg Press, from the 15th century, helped Europe became the first in mechanized printing. (May 14, 2019)

And, now we have a piece of paper at the once dried, it becomes paper at the National Workshop for Handmade Paper in the old town of Ohrid, North Macedonia. (May 14, 2019)

Ohrid has been printing paper since the 16th century and this workshop/museum/shop, the National Workshop for Handmade Paper in the city of Ohrid in North Macedonia, has one of only two copies of the Gutenberg Press in the world. Marina gave a personal demonstration on how the press, with the plates, are used to print on the paper. (May 14, 2019)

Various paper products with art work of the city of Ohrid, saints, icons, leather bound journals and even women in traditional wedding attire along with other paper products are available at the workshop/museum and shop of the National Workshop for Handmade Paper in the city of Ohrid in North Macedonia. (May 14, 2019)

The various paper products at the workshop/museum and shop of the National Workshop for Handmade Paper in Ohrid. (May 14, 2019)

The wood paper-like sign outside the entrance to the small two-room National Workshop for Handmade Paper in the city of Ohrid on the banks of Lake Ohrid. (May 14, 2019)

Spent another night at North Macedonia’s Ohrid, with views of Lake Ohrid from my hotel window, actually turned out to be a rather beautiful and peaceful part of this trip. Although it rained heavily in the evenings, the daytime was manageable and the sun did eventually make an appearance.

So for our second Ohrid day, we took a beautiful morning boat ride along the turquoise waters of Lake Ohrid ringed by mountains, attractive villages and beaches, and take in the views of the town and the surrounding scenery while afloat.

I spent the afternoon with fellow tour member Irene, conquering the massive walls of the centuries-old Samoil’s Fortress to the Macedonian Orthodox Church of Sveti Jovana Kaneo or the Church of St. John, situated on a rocky outcrop above the town, overlooking the lake. Past the church we wandered around to the back of the town and continued to the ancient Tast Samoil’s Fortress standing on the top of Ohrid Hill looking across the town and on to the 2,000-year-old Roman theater uncovered near the Upper Gate and where modern day summer concerts and performances are held.

Next stop, Albania.

Rain was predicted for today’s boat ride along Lake Ohrid but it turned out to be both a beautiful boat ride and leisurely North Macedonia day. Here is my Intrepid Tour group, with our tour leader, Flutra, enjoying our boat ride. (May 15, 2019)

A boat ride along Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia. (May 15, 2019)

Our captain, navigator and boat owner, Nikola, as we glide along Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia. (May 15, 2019)

Myself and on tour group on our group boat ride along Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia. (May 15, 2019)

Me, really enjoying the views and the beauty of Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia, during our group morning boat ride along the lake. (May 15, 2019)

Saying good-by to our boat captain, Nikola, after being dropped off after our boat ride along Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia. (May 15, 2019)

After our tour group ride along Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia, it was time to explore more of the old town Ohrid. (May 15, 2019)

The goal for this afternoon’s hike, Samuel’s Fortress, above the Church of St. John, and then onto the ancient theater with a stop for a late lunch/early dinner and a magnificent view. (May 15, 2019)

Views of Ohrid and Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia, as I make my way up toward the Church of St. John and onto the Samuel Fortress. (May 15, 2019)

Views of Lake Ohrid and the Church of St. John at Ohrid in North Macedonia. (May 15, 2019)

Walking to the Church of St. John at Kaneo at Ohrid, North Macedonia. (May 15, 2019)

Getting closer to the Church of St. John at Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia. (May 15, 2019)

The rock fountain at the entrance to the Church of St. John at Kaneo at Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia. (May 14, 2019)

Me having climbed up the hill, past the Church of St. John on my way to Samuell Fortress higher up on the hill. (May 15, 2019)

The dirt walkway to Samuel’s Fortress from the Church of St. John on Ohrid in North Macedonia. (May 15, 2019)

Then up the hill through these gorgeous trees to the Samuel Fortress in Ohrid, North Macedonia. (May 15, 2019)

The front gate to the Samuel Fortress in Ohrid, North Macedonia. It was the capital of the First Bulgarian Empire during the rule of Tsar Samuel of Bulgaria at the turn of the 10th century. (May 15, 2019)

Inside the Samuel Fortress in the old town of Ohrid, North Macedonia. (May 15, 2019)

The Samuel Fortress in the old town of Ohrid, North Macedonia. (May 15, 2019)

The Macedonian flag flying high at the Samuel Fortress in Ohrid, North Macedonia. (May 15, 2019)

Views of old town Ohrid and Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia from the Samuel Fortress. (May 15, 2019)

The Samuel Fortress in Ohrid, North Macedonia, flying the Macedonian flag. (May 15, 2019)

The exterior Upper Gate of the Samuel Fortress in Ohrid, North Macedonia. (May 15, 2019)

The Ancient theatre of Ohrid in North Macedonia was built in 200 BC as a Hellenistic-type theatre from Roman times when the theater was used for gladiator fights. However, since the theater was also a site of executions of Christians by the Romans, it was highly disliked by the locals. As a result the theater was abandoned and buried by the locals after the demise of the Roman Empire. This allowed for most of the structure to be preserved, and only accidentally uncovered in the 1980s during the construction of the houses in the area. (May 15, 2019)

The ancient theatre of Ohrid was built in 200 BC as a Hellenistic-type theatre from Roman used for gladiator fights. (May 15, 2019)

A late lunch/early dinner of pizza and a view of Lake Ohrid at Aleksandrija Pizza Restaurant in Ohrid, North Macedonia. A wonderful way to close out our stay in Ohrid and in North Macedonia. Tomorrow, we head to Albania. (May 15, 2019)

Albania – Berat

We crossed into the border of Albania which was ruled by the Ottoman Empire in different periods from 1480 to 1912 but didn’t become the country of Albania until 1913 after the Balkan Wars. However, the country endured an occupation by Italy just prior to World War II and became a communist state, the Socialist People’s Republic of Albania, under the dictatorship of Enver Hoxha who died in 1985.

Albania, after 40 years of communism, is new to democracy having voted out the communists in March 1992 amid economic collapse and social unrest.

We continued on to the remote and rarely visited town of Berat, where we spent the night in this gem of a town that was lucky to escape destruction during communist times. Traces of its Illyrian, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman periods can be found in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Over the ages Berat has been invaded and controlled by ancient Greeks, the Byzantine Empire, the Roman Empire, Slavs, Bulgarians, and the Ottoman Empire which all have had a cultural influence on it.

We took a guided walking tour of the town area before climbing up to the still inhabited fortress for fantastic views over town.

Berat, Albania, where traces of its Illyrian, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman periods can be found, is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. Over the ages Berat has been invaded and controlled by ancient Greeks, the Byzantine Empire, the Roman Empire, Slavs, Bulgarians, and the Ottoman Empire which all have had a cultural influence on it. (May 17, 2019)

Berat, Albania, with its striking collection of white washed preserved and well-refurbished Ottoman houses climbing up the hill to the Berat Castle claims the title of the ‘town of a thousand windows.’ (May 17, 2019)

The white-washed stone houses of Berat, Albania, known as “the city of one-thousand windows,” lies on the slopes of the Tomorri Mountain. (May 17, 2019)

The pedestrian bridge over the Osum river in the city of Berat, Albania. Berat, which lies on the beautiful slopes of the Tomorri Mountain, is known as “the city of one-thousand windows.” (May 17, 2019)

Margarita Tutulani born 1925 in Berat, Albania, was an anti-fascist and hero of Albania during World War II. When Italy invaded Albania in April 1939, Tutulani and her family protested and demonstrated against Italian rule of their country. Along with her brother, she was eventually arrested, tortured while in prisoner and shot to death on July 6, 1943. Her brutal death inspired many to join the resistance against fascism in Albania. (May 17, 2019)

The National Ethnographic Museum of Berat in Berat, Albania. (May 17, 2019)

The stoned hill road leading down into the city of Berat, Albania, and up to the Berat Castle. (May 17, 2019)

Berat Castle or the Citadel of Berat, built on a rocky hill on the left bank of the Osum river, is a fortress overlooking the town of Berat, Albania, and mainly dates from the 13th century. (May 16, 2019)

Sculpture of Emperor Constantine at the Berat Castle in Berat, Albania. (May 16, 2019)

The Church of St. Nicolas (right) was built around 1591 and the Church of St. Mary Blaherna (left) built mainly from the 13th century at Berat Castle in Berat contain 16th Century frescoes by Nicolas Onufri. (May 16, 2019)

Inside the Church of St. Nicolas at the Berat Castle in Berat, Albania. The 16th century frescoes were painted by Nicolas Onufri. (May 16, 2019)

Inside the Church of St. Nicolas at the Berat Castle in Berat, Albania, with our Berat guide, Eriseld (to the right) and our Intrepid Tour guide, Flutra, (to the left). The 16th century frescoes were painted by Nicolas Onufri. (May 16, 2019)

Inside the Church of St. Nicolas at the Berat Castle in Berat, Albania. The 16th century frescoes were painted by Nicolas Onufri. As a modern day quilter, I can see a pieced 9-patch or 4-patch quilt block in the clothing of these 16th century frescoes and for me that’s pretty exciting. (May 16, 2019)

The entrance to the Church of St. Mary Blaherna at the Berat Castle in Berat, Albania, is one of the oldest churches, mainly from the 13th century, built in Berat. (May 16, 2019)

Inside the Church of St. Mary Blaherna at the Berat Castle in Berat, Albania. The 16th century frescoes were painted by Nicolas Onufri. The paintings present prophet portraits and Bible scenes. (May 16, 2019)

Inside the Church of St. Mary Blaherna at the Berat Castle in Berat, Albania. The 16th century frescoes were painted by Nicolas Onufri. As a modern day quilter, I can see a pieced 9-patch or 4-patch quilt block in the clothing of these 16th century frescoes and for me that’s pretty exciting. (May 16, 2019)

Inside the Church of St. Mary Blaherna at the Berat Castle in Berat, Albania. The floor is decorated with a mosaic that again looks very much like a pieced quilt block. (May 16, 2019)

The entrance of the citadel of he Berat Castle in Berat, Albania, with the 13th century Byzantine Holy Trinity Church. (May 16, 2019)

The overcast city views of Berat, Albania, as seen from the top of the Berat Castle. (May 16, 2019)

Albania – Tirana

After breakfast in Berat, we settled in for the drive to Tirana, Albania’s largest and capital city actually feels small and compact with its Italian and Turkish architectural influences. Recently many buildings have been painted to alleviate the Soviet block feeling that pervaded. Many upgrades have been made all over town, such as new parks and wide pavements, a process that’s still on-going.

Tirana is the capital of Albania along with being its biggest city, a population in excess of 400,000, plus it’s the economic and financial heart of Albania. (May 17, 2019)

Tirana, Albania’s capital is turning it’s old, gray, boxy communist-style buildings into colorful eye-catching and modern architecture. This is the New Bazaar (Pazari i Ri), one of the oldest and most historical residential neighborhoods which has undergone renovation and re-invigoration of late. (May 17, 2019)

The New Bazaar (Pazari i Ri), one of the oldest and most historical residential neighborhoods in Tirana which has undergone renovation and re-invigoration of late. (May 17, 2019)

The art at the New Bazaar (Pazari i Ri), one of the oldest and most historical residential neighborhoods in Tirana.
(May 17, 2019)

Tirana’s main plaza Skanderberg Square with the National Museum of History and its giant mosaic representing the development of Albania’s history. (May 17, 2019)

A close-up of the exterior mosaic at the National Museum of History in Tirana’s representing Albania’s history from Illyrian times to World War II, with communist overtones. (May 17, 2019)

Skanderbeg Square is the main plaza in the center of Tirana, Albania, and is named after the Albanian national hero Gjergj Kastrioti Skënderbeu. His statue, the man on the horse, dominates the square. (May 17, 2019)

The red flag of Albania with a silhouetted black double-headed eagle in the center. The red stands for bravery, strength and valor, while the double-headed eagle represents the sovereign state of Albania. (May 17, 2019)

In 1983, more than 173,000 concrete bunkers were scattered throughout Albania under Communism rule. This Bunk’art Museum, in the middle of Tirana just a few steps away from Skanderberg Square, is about the daily lives of Albanians during the reign of the communists. (May 17, 2019)

The Fortress of Justinian, also known as Tirana Castle in Tirana, Albania, dates back before 1300 and is a remnant from the Byzantine-era. Inside the fortified walls is a very modern and touristy area that includes restaurants, shops and hotels. (May 17, 2019)

The former communists and their aging statues are now relegated to the backyard of the National Art Gallery in Tirana, Albania. Of the big statues from left is Stalin, Lenin and Stalin again. (May 17, 2019)

I’m standing inside the Cloud Pavilion, by Japanese artist Sou Fujimoto, erected outside on the front lawn of the National Art Gallery in Tirana, Albania. The work was initially created for the Serpentine Pavilion 2013 in London, and is supposed to resemble a soft cloud – despite being constructed of white steel rods! (May 17, 2019)

I’m peering down on Tirana from the Sky Tower’s revolving panoramic bar for 360 degree views of the city from the 17th floor. (May 17, 2019)

The architecture of Tirana, Albania. (May 18, 2019)

The mural art of Tirana, Albania. (May 18, 2019)

Albania – Kruja

We took a short, half-day trip to the mountain village and former Albanian capital of Kruja from Tirana where we visited the historic citadel of the Kruja Castle which houses the National Museum of Gjergi Kastindi Skanderberg the national Albanian hero who led a rebellion against the Ottoman Empire in what is today Albania and North Macedonia. Also at the Kruja Castle is the National Ethnographic Museum located in a traditional house built around 1764 that belonged to the affluent Toptani family. The museum shows the level of luxury and self-sufficiency the household maintained by producing its own food, drink, leather and weapons.

And before leaving Kruja, we paid a visit to the old market alleyway of the Kruje Bazaar on Rruga Pazari Vjeter in one of the oldest areas in Albania dating back some 400 years. It was the starting point of free trade among the city’s most established merchants. Now, it’s filled with touristy type shops most of which carry handcrafted items. Housing and urban structures have steadily grown around the bazaar.

The Kruje Castle, a historic citadel in Kruje, Albania, houses the National Museum of Gjergi Kastindi Skanderberg who is a national Albanian hero who led a rebellion against the Ottoman Empire in what is today Albania and North Macedonia. (May 18, 2019)

The minaret and remains of the Sultan Mehmed Fatih Mosque inside the Kruje Castle in Kruje, Albania. May 18, 2019)

The National Museum of Gjergi Kastindi Skanderberg at the Kruje Castle in Kruje, Albania. The Museum was built in the early 1980s, inside the Kruje Castle walls, by architects Pranvera Masha and Pirro Vaso. The museum contains a number of original bibliography, documents, objects and authentic reproductions that represent the history of Albanian people in the 15th century. (May 18, 2019)

A concrete group sculpture of Skanderberg and the people at the entryway of the National Museum of Gjergi Kastindi Skanderberg at the Kruja Castle in Kruje, Albania. Kruje was the center of the Albanian resistance against the Ottomans in the 15th century and the museum was built in 1982. Skanderbeg, a national hero, was an Albanian nobleman and military commander who led a rebellion against the Ottoman Empire in what is today Albania and North Macedonia. (May 18, 2019)

A close-up of the statue of Gjergi Kastindi Skanderberg at the National Museum of Gjergi Kastindi Skanderberg at Kruje Castle in Kruje, Albania. Skanderbeg, a national hero, was an Albanian nobleman and military commander who led a rebellion against the Ottoman Empire in what is today Albania and North Macedonia. (May 18, 2019)

A hall with various murals commemorating Skanderbeg atthe National Museum of Gjergi Kastindi Skanderberg at the Kruje Castle in Kruje, Albania. (May 18, 2019)

This large mural inside the National Museum of Gjergi Kastindi Skanderberg at the Kruje Castle depicts Skanderberg’s most important battles and his death. (May 18, 2019)

Inside the National Museum of Gjergi Kastindi Skanderberg at the Kruje Castle in Kruje, Albania is this mural, “The Assembly of Lezha.” The artist Bashkim Ahmeti, influenced by byzantine art, created the painting to depict three events. This event is Skanderbeg’s return to Kruje as he reunites with his mother, Vojsava. (May 18, 2019)

Inside the National Museum of Gjergi Kastindi Skanderberg at the Kruje Castle in Kruje, Albania is this mural, “The Assembly of Lezha.” This part of the large mural shows when Skanderbeg brings together all Albanian princess for the assembly at Lezha. The League of
was a military alliance of Albanian feudal lords forged in Lezhe on 2 March 1444, with Skanderbeg as leader of the regional Albanian and Serbian chieftains united against the Ottoman Empire. (May 18, 2019)

The National Ethnographic Museum by the Kruje Castle in Kruje, Albania, is located in a traditional house built around 1764 that belonged to the affluent Toptani family. The museum shows the level of luxury and self-sufficiency the household maintained by producing its own food, drink, leather and weapons. (May 17, 2019)

The women’s room at the National Ethnographic Museum by the Kruje Castle in Kruje, Albania, includes a collection of specially-made items a young woman preserves for her future marriage – often including sheets, table covers, ornaments, and other items inside this traditional house built around 1764 with rooms furnished in the original way. (May 18, 2019)

The National Ethnographic Museum by the Kruje Castle in Kruje, Albania, is located in a traditional house built around 1764. This loom is for the production of cotton fabrics. (May 18, 2019)

The National Ethnographic Museum by the Kruje Castle in Kruje, Albania, is located in a traditional house built around 1764. This shows part of the kitchen with its various utensils. (May 18, 2019)

The Dollma Teqe, a temple and a place of worship for the Bektashi branch of the Islamic Sufi built in 1789 and is located on the edge of the Kruje Castle in Kruje, Albania. (May 18, 2019)

Inside the Dollma Teqe, a temple and place of worship for the Bektashi branch of the Islamic Sufi built in 1789 located on the edge of the Kruje Castle. (May 18, 2019)

A tomb inside the Dollma Teqe, a temple and place of worship for the Bektashi branch of the Islamic Sufi built in 1789 located on the edge of the Kruje Castle. (May 18, 2019)

The views of Kruje, Albania, from the Kruje Castle. (May 18, 2019)

The old market alleyway of the Kruje Bazaar on Rruga Pazari Vjeter is one of the oldest in Albania which dates back some 400 years. It was the starting point of free trade among the city’s most established merchants. Now, it’s filled with touristy type shops most of which carry handcrafted items. Urban structures have steadily grown around the bazaar. (May 18, 2019)

The old market alleyway of the Kruje Bazaar on Rruga Pazari Vjeter in Kruje, Albania, with a variety of shops carrying local craft items. (May 18, 2019)

Albania – Shkoder

For our last day in Albania, on our way to Montenegro, we glimpsed the resting place of Albania and the Western Balkan’s national hero, Skanderbeg, climbed up to see one last castle, Rozafa Castle set high on a mountain with panoramic views of Shkoder, Lake Skadar and the Albanian countryside. The city of Shkoder is considered one of the oldest cities in Europe and now the main commercial centre and largest town of northern Albania. And for lunch, before crossing the border into Montenegro, we stopped at the Promenade in Shkoder to check out its European aesthetics.

The grave of Albania’s national hero Gjergj Kastrioti Skënderbej (1405-1468)
with the remains of Lezhe Castle on the hill in the distance at Lezhe, Albania. (May 19, 2019)

The grave of Albania’s national hero Gjergj Kastrioti Skënderbej (1405-1468) and the Lezhe Castle remains on the hill in Lezhe. Skanderbeg was an Albanian nobleman and military commander who led a rebellion against the Ottoman Empire in what is today Albania, North Macedonia, Republic of Kosovo, Montenegro and Serbia. (May 19, 2019)

The grave of Skanderbeg in Lezhe, Albania. (May 19, 2019)

Rozafa Castle, near the city of Shkoder, in northwestern Albania has been settled since antiquity by the Illyrian until it was captured by the Romans in 167 BC. It has also been the site of several famous sieges and was rebuilt much later by the Venetians, then the Turks. The castle fortress takes its name from a woman who was allegedly walled into the ramparts as an offering to the gods so that the construction would stand. (May 18, 2019)

The walk about Rozafa Castle, near the city of Shkoder, in Albania. (May 19, 2019)

The entrance to the Rozafa Castle near the city of Shkoder, in Albania.(May 19, 2019)

The fortress walls inside the Rozafa Castle, near the city of Shkoder, in Albania. (May 19, 2019)

Me at the Rozafa Castle near the city of Shkoder, Albania. (May 19, 2019)

Views from the Rozafa Castle near the city of Shkoder, Albania. (May 19, 2019)

The Rozafa Castle, near the city of Shkoder, in Albania. (May 19, 2019)

The area is called the Promenade of Shkoder along Rruga Kole Idromeno, the pedestrian zone in the old part of Shkodra, Albania. (May 19, 2019)

The Ebu Beker Mosque is the main Mosque in the city of Shkoder, Albania. (May 19, 2019)

The St. Stephen’s Catholic Cathedral in Shkoder, Albania. (May 19, 2019)

Montenegro – Budva

It wasn’t on the list of places for us to stop and see, but on our way to Kotor, we made a quick stop in Budva. The weather wasn’t very helpful but stopping, even for a couple of hours was worth it for me. Budva, at least the old town had wonderful characteristic appeal but for me, it was an old town tourist trap. I was actually considering how to get to Budva on our day off in Kotor and this stop helped me realize I would have been very disappointed to take time away from Kotor to spend time in Budva. However, I was glad we made the stop and glad to see the 2,500 years old Budva, known for its well-preserved medieval walled city, while being one of the oldest settlements on the Adriatic coast. Plus, it’s known for its beaches and nightlife.

Approaching the medieval walled old town of Budva, Montenegro. (May 19, 2019)

Massive city medieval walls of old town Budva, Montenegro. (May 19, 2019)

Massive city walls of old town Budva, Montenegro. (May 19, 2019)

The beach by the walled old town city of Budva, Montenegro. (May 19, 2019)

Following a wedding party into the entrance of the walled city of Budva, Montenegro, where the shops and restaurants are located. (May 19, 2019)

Inside the walled city and old town of Budva, Montenegro. (May 19, 2019)

An exit gate from inside the walled city of old town Budva, Montenegro, that leads to the yacht-parked marina. (May 19, 2019)

The beautiful tiled art piece above the exit gate inside the walled city of old town Budva, Montenegro, that leads to the yacht-parked marina. (May 19, 2019)

The water views from inside the walled city and old town of Budva, Montenegro. (May 19, 2019)

Montenegro – Kotor & Perast

Kotor, Montenegro, is the one place on this Intrepid Travel Western Balkans itinerary I was looking most forward to seeing…and even the threat of rain through gray skies with bursts of sun here and there…it did not disappoint.

Montenegro, which means Black Mountain, is on the Adriatic Sea, between Albania (to the South) and Croatia (to the North). The Old Town of Kotor was built between the 12th and 14th centuries and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. And, the Bay of Kotor, with it’s limestone mountain coastline as a backdrop, just overwhelmingly added to the beauty of Kotor. The fortified town, wedged between soaring mountains and sparkling Adriatic waters, is set on a secluded bay.

An afternoon cruise on the Kotor Fjord – the longest fjord south of Scandinavia – took us to the man made island off the coast of Persat where a Catholic church, Our Lady of the Rock, was built. Legend has it that over the centuries the island was built, rock by rock, by local seamen who kept an ancient oath after finding a picture of the Virgin Mary on a rock in 1452. I’ve seen countless photos of this little island and always wondered what it would be like to step foot on it and see this church for myself…well, I got to do that today and it was surprisingly more beautiful and intimate, even with groups of people, than I had expected.

Here’s Kotor, Montenegro. Next stop Dubrovnik, Croatia, and then I go home.

Rain was expected but as you can see from this photo of the Bay of Kotor, it turned out to be a beautiful day to see the old town along with taking a boat ride on the bay. (May 20, 2019)

A not so great selfie of myself and Intrepid Travel tour mate Irene entering Old Town Kotor, Montenegro, from the northern town gate. (May 20, 2019)

Entering Old Town Kotor, Montenegro, from the northern town gate along the stone bridge from 1540. This is one of three gates used to enter into the old town. (May 20, 2019)

Entering Old Town Kotor, Montenegro, from the northern town gate along the fortress walls. (May 20, 2019)

Old Town Kotor, Montenegro. (May 20, 2019)

The Cathedral of Saint Tryphon in Old Town Kotor, Montenegro, is one of 30 churches in the old town but this Roman Catholic cathedral, from 1166 is considered to be the most important sacred building in Kotor. (May 20, 2019)

The high altar inside the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon in Old Town Kotor, Montenegro. (May 20, 2019)

This 17th century Renaissance-Baroque Palace of the Pima family, with it’s beautiful balconies, dominates the Square of Flour inside Old Town Kotor, Montenegro. (May 20, 2019)

The Arms Square, the main square of Old Town Kotor, Montenegro, features the town clock which was erected in 1602. (May 20, 2019)

St. Luke’s Church in Old Town Kotor, Montenegro, was built in 1195 and is a modest one-nave church. (May 20, 2019)

Inside of St. Luke’s Church in Old Town Kotor, Montenegro, with its modest one-nave. (May 20, 2019)

The main gate, surrounded by the massive stone walls, is called the Sea Gate and dates from the 16th century as one of three entrances to Old Town Kotor, Montenegro. (May 20, 2019)

A close-up of the main gate or Sea Gate to the Old Town Kotor, Montenegro. (May 20, 2019)

A mega cruise ship docked by the main gate or Sea Gate of Old Town Kotor, Montenegro. Two other ships were docked close by in the Bay of Kotor. (May 20, 2019)

The Venetian fortifications of Old Town Kotor, Montenegro. (May 20, 2019)

The best way to see the Kotor, Montenegro, Bay of Kotor coastline, along with Our Lady of the Rocks and the old town of Perast, is by taking a boat from Kotor, which is exactly what our Intrepid Travel tour group did. (May 20, 2019)

Our Intrepid Travel guide Flutra, listening to our boat ride guide, Slobodan. As you can see from the map, a boat ride on the Bay of Kotor is like being in a canyon of calm blue-green water surrounded by impressive limestone cliffs. It’s beautiful and calming. (May 20, 2019)

On the boat along the Bay of Kotor coastline in Montenegro. (May 20, 2019)

Our Lady of the Rocks is a Roman Catholic church on a small man made island off the coast of Perast in the Bay of Kotor, Montenegro. Legend has it that over the centuries the island was built, rock by rock, by local seamen who kept an ancient oath after finding a picture of the Virgin Mary on a rock in 1452. I’ve seen countless photos of this little island and always wondered what it would be like to step foot on it and see this church for myself…well, I got to do that today and it was surprisingly more beautiful and intimate, even with groups of people, than I had expected. (May 20, 2019)

Inside the small, beautifully ornate Our Lady of the Rock Roman Catholic church on the small man made Lady of the Rock island off the coast of Perast in the Bay of Kotor, Montenegro. (May 20, 2019)

The painted roof by Baroque master Tripo Kokolja inside the small the Roman Catholic church of Our Lady of the Rock on the Bay of Kotor, Montenegro. (May 20, 2019)

This needlepoint by Jacinta Kunic-Mijovic from 1828 is inside the Our Lady of the Rocks church museum off the coast of Perast in the Bay of Kotor, Montenegro. It was made while Jacinta waited 25 years for her husband to return from the sea. She created this piece of art using gold and silver threads along with her own hair for the angels’ hair. (May 20, 2019)

A view of Perast from Our Lady of the Rocks. Perast is an old town on the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro, just northwest of Kotor. There are roads to drive there from Kotor but we want by boat. (May 20, 2019)

The west side view of Our Lady of the Rocks church off the coast of Perast in the Bay of Kotor, Montenegro. (May 20, 2019)

The center of old town Perast, Montenegro, is marked by the 17th century Church of St. Nicholas and its bell tower. (May 20, 2019)

Perast, an old town on the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro, northwest of Kotor and close to Our Lady of the Rocks. Perast has only one main street by the sea, the other inside the town is stairs climbing up the hill. (May 20, 2019)

Old Town Perast, Montenegro (May 20, 2019)

The altar inside the Church of St. Nicholas in old town Perast, Montenegro. (May 20, 2019)

My Intrepid Travel Western Balkans tour group and our guide Flutra on the boat as we make our way back from Perast for Kotor, Montenegro. Our last full day together will be tomorrow in Dubrovnik, Croatia, and on Wednesday, I get on a plane to go home. It’s been a great trip and a fun group to hang out with! (May 20, 2019)

Croatia – Dubrovnik

It was an overcast, cool, windy and drizzling afternoon but walking along the medieval city walls of old town Dubrovnik, Croatia, was enchanting. I walked these walls three years ago in the sunshine and I feel so extremely grateful to walk them again on this gray day. These walls and this epic walk are a fitting end to my 45-day travel journey which began in the city of lights, took a magical spin in North Africa’s Morocco, flamenco-ed and sangria-ed through Spain and ended with democracy flourishing in five Western Balkan countries.

Thank you to family and friends who came along for the virtual ride and for the friends I journeyed with and met along the way.

But before I pack up the camera and shut down the iPad, here’s the ever magical, “Pearl of the Adriatic,” with its stunning limestone facades, cobbled streets and the red tiled roofs of Dubrovnik.